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>> Home > Tags > mtroniks

mtroniks
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SLA Batteries! by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi Ed, I have MTroniks ESC's including a couple of PNP types. What I do is to start by moving the stick to reverse then back to the middle, (You can observe the direction of rotation). Then to the top and back to the middle. This works. The SLA batteries have nothing to do with the issue.

SLA Batteries! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
I have two 6volt 2.5amp SLA's. I use on the Tug Brooklyn in series But, I've noticed that the batteries. Are constantly switching polarities! They both go from + to - then back to - and +! Is this normal or is there a problem with them? Or could it be the ESC? I have a Mtroniks 15 amp PNP! What do you think?

1/48 Flower Class Corvette by Mikep Lieutenant   Posted: 23 days ago
Preparing to build a 1/48 scale WW2 Flower Class Corvette, just recieved the hull from Fleetscale excellent quality also purchased from them was the prop shaft, prop, and stuffing box and rudder. The materials and craftsmanship on these are priceless. The motor is a MFA/ combo drills 12v D.C. pt No. 457-RE800 and I plan on using a Viper marine 40 amp Mtroniks speed control perhaps a little overkill.

Graupner Jumbo 540 motors by Will-I-Am Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Doug, The 6volt battery is currently an NiMh battery not an SLA. The problem was that according to Mtroniks the minimum voltage to the ESC to adequately run the BEC connection is 6volts. That is why I was getting erratic control when the battery voltage was 5.6 volts. The action speed controller will work 2-12 volts and I am going to use a separate receiver battery as suggested by Dave Milbourn just to make sure. Regards Will

Graupner Jumbo 540 motors by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
hi Will, I agree with replacing the SLA. If you don't want to go LiPo cos of chargers etc etc how about a 5 cell 6V NiMh? much lighter than the SLA For the ESC switch to the Mtroniks Viper Marine Micro 10. That handles motors up to 550 can size, 10A motor limit, and runs off 4.8 to 12V 👍👍 I use these very happily on ships running 2 or 4 540s. A destroyer and a cruiser. Both about 54". http://www. style='background-color:yellow;'>mtroniks.net/prod/Boat-Speed-Controls/Viper-micro-Marine-10.htm You can get 'em about 5 quid cheaper here https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Mtroniks-marin... There are also 15 and 20A versions if you want to run both motors off one ESC 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

SA Valour Class Frigate by Joburg-sailor Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
My second scratch build. SA Navy "Spioenkop". 1:80 scale. 2 Mtroniks 600 motors on the scale 40mm (home made) props running on 6v and Hobbywing 860 brushed ESC. Jetdrive (also homemade) runs on a 550 motor (I think!) and a 1060 Hobbywing ESC running on 12v. Chopper is a heavily modified Hobbyboss RN Super Lynx. Hangar door opens as well as chopper moves on helideck with worm drive and magnets. Idea is that this would happen sequentially ... but haven't managed to sort that out as I am "electronically challenged". Suggestions welcome!

Range Safety Launch? by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Post 2 Range Launch? The bath test has shown up a leak……………….. Have not tried to find where yet but it is hopefully in that small bay as it did not flow over the rib section. Strange I had not thought leaks to be much of a possibility in a boat! Wishful thinking again. Anyway it has put work back a bit. You will notice that the bath water was ‘used’ condition. I was not allowed to waste water due to the shortage so had to use the bath with Radox and herbal Oils in it. I trust it does not affect the paintwork…………… Any opinions on Leak Checking? I did check how it ‘sat’, and the waterline at its current weight. There is something in those images that RN Munich will pick up on! Have received some of the parts………….just like Christmas for me. ( I was a spoilt only child). Two issues strike me. a. It may be of interest if I give sources of the parts b. I think I have a problem with ‘scale’………….. Currently the purchases fall into two groups, electrical and deck fittings. The electrics are not posing a problem yet, but the size of deck fittings certainly is! Taking the larger ‘electricals’ first, I have gone for pre built units. Someone with more ability could build the units themselves. Kits are available. Also far fewer units could be used to start with and added later if needed. As a result of my previous, though small, experience with the Richardson Tug I used Action Electronics and Component Shop in Bangor, Wales for almost all of the electrical bits. They are helpful and efficient with good quality products. I am still using Mtroniks DigiSound for the sound unit, but Action Electronics now makes one as well. I have used a new source for the transducers/exciters. I have previously used Dayton Audio, sourced through SoundandVision Netherlands and costing around £35.00 for a pair of TT25’s plus mail. This time I used Mr RC for similar item, made by them for about £53.00 the pair mail free. They too came from the Netherlands! Not tried yet, but have noted that the Dayton Audio ones had a foam ring on the face which was self adhesive and easy to place. Mr RC require Gluing in place. Going to look for the leak. Next post should be on the electronics which I hope will have arrived by then. BTW, The 46 Firefloat Mk2 blogg by ‘Elsrickle and Fire Boat (Crash Tender) on our site are great sources of information. NPJ.

Graupner Jumbo 540 motors by Will-I-Am Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Help required please, I have two Graupner Jumbo 540 6volt motors in an eboat circa 1978, I had fitted an Mtroniks speed controller replacing the Bob's board only to find that when the voltage dropped below 6 volts down to 5.6 volts I was experiencing intermittent operation of the esc. I have been informed by Mtroniks that the minimum voltage for operation of the esc is 6volts. Graupner have also confirmed that the maximum voltage for the Jumbo 540 motors is 6 volts. Do I have any alternatives other than refitting the Bob's board?

BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
This hobby gives countless opportunities for changing ideas! After some thought, have decided to try another approach. Whilst brushless motors give fantastic performance; so far have had poor experience of system reliability. As more information and advice from other modelers is gathered, suspect have been using undersized ESCs, accounting for many of the problems. However, whilst still waiting for the new brushless motors an idea developed. To instal a brushed motor on the centre shaft, whilst retaining brushless on the outers. My thinking is this could provide several advantages such as; a better slow speed performance more suitable for manoeuvring, lower current draw, improved fuse life and a reliable BECC output. It will also operate at below the Li-Po cut-off voltage, giving a “get home” facility in the event the brushless ESCs cut-offs operate. However, there is a slight weight penalty as brushed motors and ESCs are heavier than brushless. Fitted a brushed motor of the same O/D and mounting arrangement as the previous brushless to minimize installation issues. With a reliable Mtroniks ESC from my stock and suitable fuses, fitted these items along with the ballast and battery used earlier. Now, back to the pool. The system worked well. The vessel speed is much less than with a brushless motor on the centre shaft, but control-ability greatly improved. With the triple rudders she steers nicely. The thought of using a brushed motor on the centre shaft, with a brushless motor on each of the outers is attractive. It is hoped the additional operation of the outers in conjunction with with the centre shaft, will provide the expected performance. The centre shaft would then also provide manoeuvring and reliability with the outers shut down. If this works, think this power-train combination could be ideal. Once the new brushless motors and ESCs arrive will instal and report. On the attached pictures, the first shows the ballasted model sitting with the brushed centre shaft motor, the second with a brushless. The difference in draft is imperceptible, the bow sits slightly high in both cases. The third shows the model with the brushed centre shaft operating only at “full” speed.

push tug.. by Steve-Teresa Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Having put together a couple of "kit's" over the years, normally with fiberglass hull, I decided after having a electrical failure while on the local pond that I could do with something to retrieve a stricken boat, but with what and how, well after posing the question of what others do I decided to have a look about and found some idea's for a push tug, it seemed like the ideal thing and was something like I was looking for, I didn't purchase a kit, instead decided to build it myself... After making the hull according to the plan's, I looked at it and thought... na, that won't work. the plan's gave the hull a half moon shape, I found that it didn't balance well and needed a fair bit of weight due to the displacement, so I cut the bottom of and now is a flat bottom vassal, this sat better and stable in water.. I intend to run it on a 12v sla battery and two Mtroniks 600 motors... the deck and cabin has copied the general shape but a few changes to add features and suit the design that pop's into my head as I go... its coming along well I think... all materials are mostly odd's and end's, bit's I find and mixed wood except the deck's which I intend to varnish with white sides..

Brooklyn by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
[Score: 10/10] 39"/2700g Brooklyn Capable of 4mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 80mm) Geared to a 12 Volt Dumas Motor (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 5Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Mtroniks Viper Marine 15 Amp (5Amps) ESC - Comments: She has a 12 volt Dumas Motor and a 15 amp Mtroniks viper marine ESC! Also has a 12 volt Harbor Models Smoker. Tug Brooklyn Completed on Aug' 25, 2018! She took 8 months to complete!

CB90 by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
CB90 Model boat, 52 inches long performing 360 degree rotation on its own axis. The Combat Boat 90 (CB90) is a class of fast military assault craft originally developed for the Swedish Navy by Dockstavarvet. Powered by two 9.6v Graupner 700 turbo motors (no-longer in production). Two Mtroniks Viper Marine 25 is a Brushed Speed Control designed specifically for use in RC model boats, it has a 25Amp motor limit and has proportional forwards and reverse functions

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute by Richard7 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 6 months ago
Hello, thank you for your reply, l will endeavour to post a couple of pictures. There is no diagram in the instructions regarding positioning the motor which is typical of Billing Boats, all it does show is a picture of the propshaft. I will scan that picture tomorrow and attach the PDF. I took the advise on the Billing Boats UK regarding the motor size M500 (Mtroniks). Cheers Richard

Esc’s, rudder servo etc by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
A few more little odds n ends done today. Rudder servo box and servo installed, all pushrods fitted and centred. ESC's have been installed along side the motors, hooked up to Rx and rotating the right way. I soldered up a Y-Lead with XT60 connectors to connect both ESC's to one LiPo, red wire removed on 1 ESC as would be done with twin aircraft setup. Just the battery tray to make and install and configure a Mtroniks W-Tail unit so that motors and rudders are sinc when turn inputs made. Last job of the day was to fit the numbering on the rear cabin that came via eBay in da post today.

more progress. by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
First job today was to reduce the rudders by 1cmx1cm which I think not only looks better but should reduce the affects that have been mentioned in comments below. Ive fitted the cockpit which I assembled yesterday. Its not the best fit into the deck, however, I shall blend it all in with some balsa strip, sand, filler, sanding sealer hopefully for a seamless finish. I have pictured the 2 x Hobbyking waterproof boat 30 amp esc. These are supposed to be water cooled, however I am not going to fit the tubing and start drilling water pickup and exit holes in the hull x 4 until I think that water cooling is going to be necessary. Once I have watt meter readings for 2S and 3S lipo, it will give me an idea what the ESC are going to be like. Of course if you guys think I need to go water cooling, please let me know! I have an Mtroniks W-tail mixer that will allow the motors to be synched to the rudders allowing the inboard motor to slow or stop when turning. Never used one before, so may need to some programming once hooked up, we shall see. Last job today was to shoot a could of coats of red oxide primer on the lower hull to see what the resin finish was like. on the whole not a bad finish at all, just a could of tiny areas that need a little sanding for a faily blemish free finish.