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Looking for more help please. I have settled for the Graupner Speed 600 8.4 Volt (4.8-9.6V) with the Mtroniks TIO Marine 30 Amp ESC driving a 3 blade brass 35mm prop. I need advise on what size of NiMh pack to use and will it be under propped with the 35mm 3 blade?
I would appreciate some input as to the type of battery. My inclination is to go for a lead-acid, as I would like the additional weight. I feel that most models look too light on the water. The motor is a mtroniks 660 with a Viper Marine 25A ESC. Any advice would be appreciated!
Need help in selecting and matching motor, battery, ESC, prop etc. for my 1958 Tarpon scratch built from MM 494 plan. I am years out of date with the hobby and a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing! I have purchased a Graupner Speed 600 8.4 Volt (4.8-9.6V) and an Mtroniks Speed M600 12 Volt. I also purchased the Mtroniks TIO Marine 30 Amp ESC . Please advise if I am on the right track and which motor to use. Also need help on prop and battery selection. Thank you, Gordon
Hi TJ, RE: RX battery. Any 4 or 5 cell (4.8 or 6V) NiMh of 1000mAh up will do. Use the biggest one you can without upsetting the boat's trim or reducing it's performance / planing etc. BUT: don't forget to disconnect the red wires between your ESCs and RX to disconnect the BECs in the mTroniks speed controllers!!! Also check that your RX and mixer module etc can handle 6V+! If not use the 4 cell pack. A fully charged NiMh will be significantly above 6V. Some modules; e.g. Action Electronics / Component Shop don't like that 😡 Alternatives are, esp if you need to save weight, 1 use ONE of the red BEC leads from ESC to RX, e.g. the centre one, and disconnect the other two, 2 Use a separate 5V UBEC module to syphon power off the drive battery for the RX, AND disconnect all three red BEC wires from the ESCs. Cheers, Doug 😎
Hi Doug I am using 3 mtroniks viper marine 15 ESC,s and 3 MFA RE-380-Pole DC Motors all have been tested singularly at low speed and connected to 4mm propeller shafts and 30mm propellers and all went well
Hi all, I want to connect three ESC,s which connect to the three motors . I have looked at the mtroniks W-tail marine mixer and I am not sure if this will do the job, they seem more for 2 motors rather than three . any suggestions
My latest project, Cygnus GM32. Going to be a fwd wheelhouse, other detail not decided yet! Any one have any build detail of running gear used successfully on other boats? I've made a Skeg and rudder and fitted a 65mm prop direct to a 700 size 5000rpm motor which draws 14amps in water. Any suggestions on esc would be welcome other than the screaming mtroniks I have now!
Hi Ed, I have MTroniks ESC's including a couple of PNP types. What I do is to start by moving the stick to reverse then back to the middle, (You can observe the direction of rotation). Then to the top and back to the middle. This works. The SLA batteries have nothing to do with the issue.
I have two 6volt 2.5amp SLA's. I use on the Tug Brooklyn in series But, I've noticed that the batteries. Are constantly switching polarities! They both go from + to - then back to - and +! Is this normal or is there a problem with them? Or could it be the ESC? I have a Mtroniks 15 amp PNP! What do you think?
Preparing to build a 1/48 scale WW2 Flower Class Corvette, just recieved the hull from Fleetscale excellent quality also purchased from them was the prop shaft, prop, and stuffing box and rudder. The materials and craftsmanship on these are priceless. The motor is a MFA/ combo drills 12v D.C. pt No. 457-RE800 and I plan on using a Viper marine 40 amp Mtroniks speed control perhaps a little overkill.
Doug, The 6volt battery is currently an NiMh battery not an SLA. The problem was that according to Mtroniks the minimum voltage to the ESC to adequately run the BEC connection is 6volts. That is why I was getting erratic control when the battery voltage was 5.6 volts. The action speed controller will work 2-12 volts and I am going to use a separate receiver battery as suggested by Dave Milbourn just to make sure. Regards Will
My second scratch build. SA Navy "Spioenkop". 1:80 scale. 2 Mtroniks 600 motors on the scale 40mm (home made) props running on 6v and Hobbywing 860 brushed ESC. Jetdrive (also homemade) runs on a 550 motor (I think!) and a 1060 Hobbywing ESC running on 12v. Chopper is a heavily modified Hobbyboss RN Super Lynx. Hangar door opens as well as chopper moves on helideck with worm drive and magnets. Idea is that this would happen sequentially ... but haven't managed to sort that out as I am "electronically challenged". Suggestions welcome!
Post 2 Range Launch? The bath test has shown up a leak……………….. Have not tried to find where yet but it is hopefully in that small bay as it did not flow over the rib section. Strange I had not thought leaks to be much of a possibility in a boat! Wishful thinking again. Anyway it has put work back a bit. You will notice that the bath water was ‘used’ condition. I was not allowed to waste water due to the shortage so had to use the bath with Radox and herbal Oils in it. I trust it does not affect the paintwork…………… Any opinions on Leak Checking? I did check how it ‘sat’, and the waterline at its current weight. There is something in those images that RN Munich will pick up on! Have received some of the parts………….just like Christmas for me. ( I was a spoilt only child). Two issues strike me. a. It may be of interest if I give sources of the parts b. I think I have a problem with ‘scale’………….. Currently the purchases fall into two groups, electrical and deck fittings. The electrics are not posing a problem yet, but the size of deck fittings certainly is! Taking the larger ‘electricals’ first, I have gone for pre built units. Someone with more ability could build the units themselves. Kits are available. Also far fewer units could be used to start with and added later if needed. As a result of my previous, though small, experience with the Richardson Tug I used Action Electronics and Component Shop in Bangor, Wales for almost all of the electrical bits. They are helpful and efficient with good quality products. I am still using Mtroniks DigiSound for the sound unit, but Action Electronics now makes one as well. I have used a new source for the transducers/exciters. I have previously used Dayton Audio, sourced through SoundandVision Netherlands and costing around £35.00 for a pair of TT25’s plus mail. This time I used Mr RC for similar item, made by them for about £53.00 the pair mail free. They too came from the Netherlands! Not tried yet, but have noted that the Dayton Audio ones had a foam ring on the face which was self adhesive and easy to place. Mr RC require Gluing in place. Going to look for the leak. Next post should be on the electronics which I hope will have arrived by then. BTW, The 46 Firefloat Mk2 blogg by ‘Elsrickle and Fire Boat (Crash Tender) on our site are great sources of information. NPJ.