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>> Home > Tags > navigation light

navigation light
action electronics
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lindberg cc constellation
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portland model power boat association
navigation light
LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
OK. Good, that's all I need to know 👍 Now to put new batteries in me calculator 😁 BTW: I know soccer isn't exactly THE game over there, BUT England are playing in the World Cup tonight, wish 'em luck - they might need it 😉 Ciao, Doug 😎

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
Doug: Yes, sir. I should’ve written “8.08V” next to the “+” but I missed it. Pete

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
😁 "Who's on first base?" "Yes." "What"? "No, What's on second." "Who?" "No, What. Who's on first." "!****!*!***!" 😡 BTW: thanks for the input voltage 👍 Is that the same value where you have marked '+' on the sketch? Cheers, Doug 😎 c

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi, Doug: Sorry about that. Where power enters the circuit board the reading is 8.08 volts, same as the 7.2V battery pack when it’s fully charged. That sounds like something from an Abbott & Costello routine! 😎😎

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi Pete, many thanks, good work 👍 Just one question; What was the battery voltage? GF about to drag me out to the Shopping Mall 🤔 so more this evening. Cheers, Doug 😎

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
Hey Doug! I’ve finally finished the long-awaited sketch! I’m sorry it took me so long but I had to work under very adverse conditions. Nearly every time I sat down to work on it one of my wife’s friends would drop in for a visit & there isn’t enough light in the closet to sketch by. Anyway, the sketch is attached. I verified that all four of the boat’s exterior lights are LEDs. The pilot house interior light is a light bulb as I’ve said before. You asked before if it’d be possible to replace the bulb with an LED. It can be done so I noted the bulb’s supply voltage on the sketch, too. Both wires running to the bulb are white (labelled “WHT” on the sketch). The Aft Deck light LEDs look crystal-clear when they’re turned off, but when they’re turned on they light up yellow! I didn’t expect that because the Port & Starboard Sidelight LEDs are red & green respectively when they’re turned off. The Search Light LED is clear when it’s off & white when it’s on. I hope the sketch is helpful. As I said in my last post I couldn’t get the voltage readings on the SMD resistor inputs, but I wrote their 3-digit numbers & my stab at their values in my last post, too. I hope the nomenclature I used on the sketch is somewhat like what you’re used to. Being a mechanical guy I never did any electrical or electronics drawings so I just took a stab at it for the sketch. If you have questions or need anything else just ask. Thanks again, Pete

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 16 days ago
Hi, Doug: I managed to measure voltages at the outputs for each LED as well as the the bulb in the pilot house. However, I couldn’t measure voltages on the “input” of the five LED resistors. From what I found by searching on line these resistors are the “SMD” (Surface Mounted Device) type. They’re about the size of two amoebas & I just couldn’t see them well enough. It would be easier to give a gnat a colonoscopy than it would be to get the probe of my multimeter in the right spots. But in the enlarged photos I took of those resistors I could actually read the three digit numbers printed on each one. One of them is numbered “221” & the other four are numbered “331”. I’ll defer to your expertise if I’m wrong, but by using a nifty calculator that I found on line I figured out that “221” = 220 ohms +/-5% & “331” = 330 ohms +/-5%. Are these values correct? Will you be able to proceed by using the published resistor values in the absence of the resistor “input” voltages that I’m not able to measure? I sure hope so. Please let me know if the resistor data I found is correct or if I’m way off. My sketch is almost done & I’ll get it to you shortly. Thanks very much.

Krick Police Launch by MouldBuilder Commander   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi The Blacksmith. I am enjoying the build. There is a lot more work in this one than I was expecting. I do not expect a great deal of speed from this model with only a 400 motor, but I will just have to wait for the first trial to find out. I have two other projects on the go but I am putting all of my spare time into this one as I would like to complete before the end of July. I am modifying the lighting on the model to make the blue light flash, add proper navigation lights and deck lighting. Thanks for looking and commenting on the build.😉

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Hi Pete, Number 1, Get yourself some more batteries! You'll want a spare at the pond anyway 😉 Better still, get a variable mains power supply for such bench tests so you don't have to mess with batteries until you're on the pond! Here in Munich I got a Basetech 30V 5A regulated PSU for less then the price of a decent boat kit. See 2nd pic, shows mine during my test of a converted field coil motor to make it run forwards and backwards. it saves a lot of faffing about with batteries for a quick test of a circuit😉 Get one where you can set a current limit down to mAmps so you don't risk blowing components, e.g. LEDs! Re Connectors: if you are going to make a little distribution board for the lights then why not use this for all connections to the superstructure? I.e. first solder all the wires from the circuit board into the input end of your Veroboard. At the output end solder a strip of 1/10" pitch connector pins. Try Radio Shack! For each output to lamps, smoker etc you can then use the little 2 pin JST plugs. See pic. Type JST-RCY. Try Googling them. Sure you can get these from any half decent Online RC supplies shop over there. They are often used in Park Flyer planes etc. Doing it that way you only have half the wires to squash into the tiny plugs 😉 As soon as we have the voltage readings we can work out the connections and resistors etc for your little board. Happy measuring😁 Looking forward to your sketch. Cheers, Doug 😎

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 23 days ago
Hello, Doug: I had everything ready to take the voltage readings this morning except for one minor detail: the 7.2v battery pack was dead so I had to plug it in to charge. It should be ready by mid-afternoon today. In the meantime I’ve got a few questions about connectors. As I said earlier I want to install connectors in the existing wiring that runs up into the deck house & pilot house. I’ll do the same with the new wiring that’ll go to the mast LEDs, too. I’d like to use miniature multi-conductor plugs & sockets with male & female conductors that solder onto the cut & stripped wires. Presently there are (10) wires for LED lighting, (2) for the pilot house lamp, (2) for the smoke generator & (2) for the smoke “blower” - (16) wires all together. At this point I don’t know how many wires there’ll be all together. Do you think a single connector for all of the wires is a good idea or would it be better to use several small connectors? Last of all, do you know of a source for small or miniature connectors? Radio Shack’s site lists connectors but they look too bulky. The conductor pins & sockets used with them appear to be designed for much larger gauge wires than the skinny wires in the tug. I’ve looked at several other sites but the technical nomenclature used for something as simple as connectors give me a headache. Help, please?

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
Sorry, my mistook🤔 Look forward to the sketch, cheers Doug 😎

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 26 days ago
Hi, Doug: Somewhere along the way I must have messed up & given you some bad information. There are no connectors in any of the wiring that runs from the circuit board up into the deck house & pilot house. I think at some point I mentioned that I want to put connectors in the wiring which is probably what has caused the mixup. By installing connectors in the wiring I’d be able to completely remove the bottom cover of the deck house (with the circuit board attached to it) & move it safely aside without the risk of damaging the wiring. Then I’ll better access to the deck house interior if I ever need to work on anything inside. Anyway, I’ll use the needlepoint “+” probe on my pen-style multimeter to take all of the readings that are needed to avoid shorts. There are (5) pairs of wires soldered to the board that supply power & ground to the boat’s (4) LEDs & (1) bulb. I don’t think I’ll have any trouble getting the voltage measurements you need. I’ll get a sketch & voltage readings to you as soon as I can. Thanks again for your continued assistance.

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
Mornin' Pete (at least it is here!) Yes, switch on only one light at a time to avoid any confusion with the readings. Easier to find the 'live one' then. Socket means the connectors on the circuit board where you told me plugs from the superstructure wiring are connected , and as I saw in your photos. First job is to trace all wires back from the existing lights and note them on your sketch. If any are directly soldered into the board the procedure is just the same as if it were a socket pin. I'm particularly curious about the voltage to the bulb, and why it's a bulb in the first place. Carefully check all other lights, if they are also bulbs we have a slightly different ball game. Still need the voltages though 😉 I guess we are all collectively responsible for the demise of local model shops and Radio Shacks and the like. We all want Rolls Royces and Cadillacs but are only prepared to pay Hyundai and Toyota prices, so we all (me too - Guilty as Charged🤔) buy online from HobbyKing and similar and the local shops starve. Simple economics. Model shop owners gotta eat too! Sack time now in Munich, tomorrow (today😲) is another day, ciao, Doug 😎🤓

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 26 days ago
Thanks, Doug. I’m pretty clear on how to proceed; thanks very much for your detailed instructions. Will you please clarify two things? As I “switch on each existing light in turn” to measure voltages as you describe, should I turn each light off before moving on to the next one or should I leave them turned on until all of the measurements are finished? Also, does “socket” refer to the locations on the board where the wires & components were originally inserted through holes & then soldered in place? I’ll check out the Radio Shack website you mentioned later this evening. I didn’t realize RS still existed as an Internet retailer. Almost all of the RS stores here in the states closed in 2017. There was a Radio Shack store less than a half mile from my home that closed last year. Oh, well.

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
I ain't laughing Pete, it's a fair question (or two) 😉 1 Location: you're on the right track👍 A little distribution board, e.g. built on Veroboard, is a good tidy solution and simplifies any troubleshooting later. Put the resistors in the + lead to the LEDs. 2 Resistor size and heat: 1/8 or 1/4 W resistors will do nicely. Since they will only be passing 20 to 30mA they should not get hot. The size is about 3mmx 10mm. Allow 3 or 4mm at each end for the leads for flat mounting. 3 Values: Before we can determine these we will need to know what voltage is supplied to the dropping resistors on the circuit board just before the plug and socket connection to the lamp wire. So you will have to do some testing with your multi-meter😲 before you pull anything apart make a sketch of the lamps connections to the board. Switch on your TX and RX - IN THAT ORDER PLEASE! Switch on each existing light in turn and measure the volts at the socket on the board, referred to the negative of the main battery supply. Then look for one of those teeny SMD resistors directly connected to the socket pin you've just measured and check the volts at both ends while the lamp is on. Note all these readings on your sketch. Make a clear photo of this sketch and post it or PM me for my email address. that might get deleted by the site system🤔 When we have these readings I can work out some suitable combinations to achieve what you want and minimise the number of different resistors. Basically I need to know if the full 7.2V of the main battery is switched to the resistor by the RX output! If not then what!? Hope this makes sense 😉 Takes longer to describe than to do it ! Re sourcing: Try Radio Shack. I recently pointed another site colleague (figtree) in this direction for a similar project with his Brooklyn tug. For instance- This is a collection of so called preferred values, i.e. near enough standard values and cheap to produce by the millions. For $7.50 it's got all the values you are likely to need for the next 10 years illuminated boating 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎🤓