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>> Home > Tags > navigation

navigation
delamination
donation
lindberg cc constellation
navigation light
notification updates
portland model power boat association
renovation
restoration
rotation
ventilation
vibration
navigation
LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by Pete Lieutenant   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi, Doug: As “luck” would have it I managed to fall down several of our basement stairs last Fall (no pun intended, I promise. But I really hope it’s the “last fall” I ever take). I had a good hold of the railing & I don’t have any idea why I fell. Luckily it was only about six steps; it could have been much worse. As it is, though, I dislocated my right shoulder & tore the right biceps tendon loose from the bone. The dislocation was fixed with physical therapy but surgery via scope was needed to install two titanium anchors in the front of the shoulder bone. The tendon tatters were trimmed, then it was sutured to the anchors. Seeing that I can tie my shoes by myself again now I’m trying to get back to work on my tug. I’m still severely klutzy but I’m getting better every day & my fine motor skills are coming back OK. When the doctor told me I needed surgery I said I wanted a second opinion. He said: “OK, you’re ugly, too”. Then I asked him if I’d be able to play the violin when I’m all better. He said I shouldn’t have any problem playing at all. That’s great news for me seeing as I can’t play one now. Seriously, I do miss not being able to play my guitars. Well, that’s all I can write for now. I hope you’re doing really well & having great success with all of your projects. Take good care. Pete

Nav. lights and smoker by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
The navigational lights and the smoker still need to be final wired with a power switch for each. The amp draw on the smoker is about 2.2 Amps as measured with my meter, so I intend to use a 2 1/2 Amp Fuse. Will probably just use manual switch rather than remote just to keep it simple, we will see..... Cheers, Joe Joe

LED Nav. Lighting by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Two days ago I put what I hope is the final paint on the hull, hatch and misc. parts. I like to let it sit for several days to cure, especially in cooler weather. I took the time to work out LED navigational lighting for my Brooklyn Tug and got that installed. I will photograph that tug later. Back to the springer tug, I had difficulty finding a good mounting spot for the starboard and port lighting so I decided to raise it on a light bar. Photos show the styrene structure in progress which will have the green and red side lights and a single white light on the top center post. Worked out the resistor values to reduce current and work off of my 6 volt supply, then soldered as shown. Fed the assembled LEDs through the plastic rectangular tunnel I created. The one photo I took with the red LED turned on is so bright that the camera just picked up a bright spot. I may have to reduce brightness but will test out in daylight first.... These LEDs are very bright and are 360 degree view! Ordered from "superbrigntleds.com" in order to get the full 360 as the ones at the local store were very limited to 18 to 60 degrees. Ordered red, green and white and they arrivedin about four days, great service. I have used this company several times and am happy with them, good to know. More to come, Joe

Artesania Samson RC Tugboat Build + Navigation by juskiddin Seaman   Posted: 1 month ago
Has anyone built this model? Can you please comment on it. Thanks

Deck, servo mount by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Put together a pilot house based on some tugs I've seen. Just freelanced it as I went. I build a lot with styrene so I am used to just cutting and building. I use liquid styrene cement that fuses the materials together. See photo, will trim it out as I mount it, need to add some detail at roof and some Navigational lighting. Put on on 3mm plywood deck, same as hull bottom. The deck is also curved (proper term is SHEAR) and I started to build up some wood edge at the opening. Will sand everything well, then start sealing and priming all surfaces. Made a bracket for the rudder servo mount and an adjacent platform for the ESC and RX. Ordered two 6v 5ah SLA batteries. I will wire in parallel to stay with 6v and get 10ah. I like to stay with 6 volts as I want the motor to run slow like a tug should. Will wire in an in-line fuse. Haven't decided where I will put switch, up high somewhere to avoid water. I will show the wiring once I get to it. This build is going fast because it's a simple design, just what I was looking for. I work on it late afternoons and into the evening while I watch basketball games. About 4 hrs a day. Looking forward to building the hatch and getting some primer started tomorrow. Regards, Joe 👍

Internal wiring & bottom skins by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Because I am keen to conceal as much of the wiring as possible I have decided to place the battery at the bow and the operational equipment at the stern, the engine on the original boat was central and covered with a soundproof box and this is convenient as the motor can be positioned and concealed in the same way. This means that some of the wires will have to run the full length of the boat and the easiest way to conceal them is to run them beneath the ‘box’ around which the hull is formed, and this needs to be done before the bottom skins are fitted. Holes were bored through the bulkhead formers under the port side of the hull and battery cables were run to the stern where the ESC will be and three motor wires from the ESC run to the centre, emerging near the motor position. For good measure I put in a servo cable and a separate draw wire just in case I needed to put more cabling in for any additional features, perhaps working navigation lights? Satisfied that I had all the cabling in place I was able to fit the bottom skins starting with the starboard side first. Before doing so I put a very slight 'hollow' in former F1 which should help blend the shape of the the hull where the ply skins meet the balsa blocks that will to be carved and shaped to form the bow. This can be seen in the last picture. The process of forming and fixing the skins is the same as for the side skins but in addition to the pins holding the skins in place I used some brown polythene ‘packing tape’ to pull the skins tightly against the bulkhead formers and strakes. The packing tape has a very high tensile strength and is ideal for this, and of course cheap and easy to remove. Once the aliphatic glue had set thoroughly overnight I removed the excess from the skins with a small block plane and finished them with my sanding plate. Before I fit the skin at the stern I will have to arrange the water cooling for the ESC, with the pickup just behind the prop and the outlet on the stern. I’ll cover that aspect in the next update.

Brooklyn Steam Tug by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
[Score: 8/10] 36"/11900g Brooklyn Steam Tug Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 120mins Single Propellor (4 Blade 100mm) Geared to a 550 dc (4 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (6v) 15Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Tamar T15 (5Amps) ESC - Comments: I built this from a Dumas Tug Kit, nice kit with lots of detail. Two SLA batteries provide ballast along with lead weight. Actual battery rating is 2 x24 = 24ah..... Gearing is from an older type model aircraft type. ESC is a marine type, forward, backward drive, big 4" Dumas prop. This tug is back in dry dock for addition of led navigational lighting. The initial build was undertaken while I was battling stage 4 cancer, it keep my mind occupied during chemo and surgery recovery, stayed positive! Model building is very meditative to me, try it if you have't, Have fun. Photos to come once out of dry dock.

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Pete, how's things? Cheers, Doug 😎

The wheelhouse navigation light. by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
This is a small item but very visible on the wheelhouse and since the standard for this item has been set I have to follow suit. So first of all get some 3mm blue LEDs ordered and then it’s on with preparing the white metal body. I used by hand as suggested a series of drills increasing in diameter until 3.1 dia was reached but only 2/3 down the length from the front the smaller hole (1.5mm) was bored right through for the wires to exit. Arrival of the LEDs, first check the LED using my power supply, just over 3 volts seems to illuminate to the correct level. Next was to remove the shoulder on its plastic casing so the whole body does not exceed 3mm over its length and lightly abrade the outside to give a diffused light. Next cut the LED legs to 2mm from the plastic casing noting which is positive, next prepare the wires. I used Futaba servo wire cable 22awg which is very flexible and with the white signal wire stripped off leaving a red and black wire. These were tinned and cropped to 2mm and then quickly soldered to the appropriate terminal. Next check the LED still works! first hurdle over, I now needed to check the that when the LED goes into the body it doesn’t short out so checking the diameter over the widest part which is over the soldered terminals this was 0.1 below 3mm. I decided that shrink sleeve was too thick so I mixed some epoxy resin and coated all around the terminals, this proved to be satisfactory in both non-conductivity and dimensionally. Now the final test, using some aliphatic wood glue I slid the LED into the body whilst it was illuminated as it was a tight push fit, bingo it’s still lit – leave to set. I used aliphatic glue, as it would be easier to remove should I ever have to change the LED. The body still needs painting white but this will be done with all the other fittings at a later stage.

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Pete, welcome back😊 Glad your eyeballs have cleared up 👍 Just ordered new goggles yesterday, should be here end of the month, then I can fiddle with 1mm LEDs again - maybe😉 No, I didn't put a plug and socket at the base of the mast. I hard wired it into connections in the wheelhouse roof. Then took all the wires down through the funnels until they poked out the bottom of the main cabin. That's it for now. The mast is not glued in, it's a tight push fit so can still be folded down a bit. Later I'll make the little distribution board and put the plug and socket there so I can still remove the whole superstructure for maintenance. No again, I haven't done any more on the Southampton yet. Been busy fiddling with my fish cutter Gina 2, hull preparation and preliminary coat of white paint, and cleaning up Colin's vintage Taycol field coil motor. See Electrical Blogs 'Taycol Supermarine'. Cheers, Doug 😎

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by Pete Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
Thanks for the information. Following Doug’s lead I came up with an idea for a scale fluorescent light fixture to install on the pilot house ceiling. I have odds & ends in my spare parts boxes that I can use to make the fixture, complete with a reflector & transparent pebble-surface scale diffuser. Even though the fixture won’t be visible I still want to achieve nice, even light in the pilot house with minimal shadows. The fixture design is still on the mental drawing board at this point but I’m reasonably sure it’ll work in the tug’s pilot house. If it doesn’t, however, I’ll definitely look into your suggestion. Thanks for reading my post & for your helpful advice, too. Pete

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
if your still thinking about the cabin light you may like to think about using a surface mounted LED https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Surface-Mounted-LEDs-10-Pack-Choo... Just to give you an idea

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by Pete Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
Hello, Doug! I’m happy to report that my eyes are finally healed & I’m ready to get cracking on my tug’s LED lighting improvement project. Needless to say it’s so fantastic to be able to see again. The infection was so bad that I had to move around the house for weeks with at least one hand on the wall or I was in danger of falling or walking into the china cabinet. I lost what’s called “stereo vision” & had no depth perception. It was a nightmare to say the least, especially considering that the source of the infection remains unknown. But I just had a checkup at the ophthalmologist‘s office & I was given the happy news that all traces of the infection are completely gone. Hallelujah!🙏🏼👁👁 BTW, did you complete your tug’s mast LED lighting project? I recall that you had finished up the mast itself & had its LEDs working. Were you able to reinstall the mast in the pilot house roof & get everything back together without any problems? At one point you had mentioned possibly making a plug & socket arrangement for the mast so that it could be removed for safer transport to the lake. Were you able to follow through with that plan or was it just is easy to simply re-install the mast? finished for your dog? If so, how did it come out? I hope all is well with you & that your many projects are all turning out successfully.

"Maureen Lee" by Ishmael Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 5 months ago
[Score: 8/10] 33"/3700g "Maureen Lee" Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 90mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 30mm) Direct Drive to a 550 type (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Unknown ESC - Comments: The “Maureen Lee” started out as a Bristol Bay ready-to-run semi-scale model of a typical European fishing cutter. Many modifications were made to her to make her look like an old, worn-out fishing boat. Factory-installed switchable work and navigation lighting means that she can even be operated at night. A 550-size electric motor and metal propeller allow for ample power. A Bristol Bay model is supplied practically fully assembled… you need only mount the two masts and install the batteries. Numerous robust details make this model look great at home or on the water! Technical specifications: Hull length: 850 mm Width: 220 mm Overall height: 737 mm Total weight: 3650 g

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
You beat me to it Colin 👍 I found those as well and zoomed 'em. Looks like a form of Hi-Drag Stockless to me. ZY-6 perhaps? https://www.google.com/search?q=anchor&client=firefox-b&tbm=... Cheers, Doug https://www.wikiwand.com/en/Stockless_anchor