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>> Home > Tags > nimh

MFA TORPEDO 500 / BATTERY INFO by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi al, jarvo's answer is more or less correct but not the whole story! Here is a reprint from my attempt to clarify various misunderstandings and misuse of terms related to batteries - usage and maintenance - posted to a thread "battery charging" you can find under 'General Sailing'. "Hi Both (and all other non-technical guys here!) (Dave_M please jump to the next post or topic!😉) To avoid further confusion amongst the non-technical members can we perhaps straighten out the technical terms involved in battery charging and use (strictly speaking the dimensions or quantities involved). mAh (milli-amphour) is a measure of the capacity of a battery: how many 1/1000 of an ampere (A) it can theoretically deliver in one hour, if in perfect fully charged condition and under perfect environmental conditions. (What you ain't never gonna get!) When the outside temperature drops so does the usable capacity 🤔 Charge and discharge rates are measured in ampere (A). under 1A the milliamp (1A/1000, unit mA) is usually used for convenience. Quality battery packs are marked on the case with maximum charge and discharge rates in A. Sometimes marked as xC/yC. xC is the MAX charge rate and means x times the nominal capacity/1000. yC is the MAX discharge rate (i.e. what your motors take) and often means y times the nominal capacity/1000. Sometimes the max discharge rate is given as a multiple of the max charge rate. See example in my photo. These are MAXIMUM warnings and NOT to be taken as the norm! See example in pic. Capacity 4000mAh = 4Ah, MAX charging current is 8A =2C, (4000/1000)x2. Half an hour charging gives then 8/2=4Ah. I would never ever charge at anywhere near this rate! Charging at 500mA (0.5A) for 8 hours (0.5Ax8h=4Ah) is perfectly adequate and much more gentle on the cells i.e. longer life 😉 MAX discharge current is given as 240A = 30 times max charge current or 60 times capacity in Ah.(4). If I used it at this rate it would probably be irreparably damaged (toasted) in just under a minute (0.9999r) 😡 If any Lixx pack gets HOT while charging or in use take it to recycling pronto, before it sets fire to your boat or workshop/house😡 ALWAYS MAKE CERTAIN THAT YOUR CHARGER IS SET FOR THE TYPE OF PACK YOU ARE USING, NicAD, NiMh, LiPo OR LiION etc (don't forget the balancer connection!). Sorry for teaching some 'grandmas' to suck eggs but having seen so many questions about battery charging and much misuse of the parameter units for batteries in the responses (as above) I felt it was time to clarify things for the non-technical among us, for their own safety and the health of their wallets!" Cheers Doug 😎

Aero Kit - Sea Queen by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi Andy Welcome to the site. There are many posts re building and fitting out Sea Queens on the site. You can search and browse. The boats in Harbour section will alsos give yousi details of the motor/prop/battery set up. I have an original Aerokits version and in my 48" Sea Queen I use a brushless 42 size 850Kv water cooled motor of 700 watts and it is happy driving a Prop Shop prop of 42mm at 45 amp on full throttle. Power is from an 11.1v Lipo of at least 2200 mA but Nimhs would work, just not as fast and less duration.

Removing The Deck by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Only way to see if it works is to make a test rig and hold the exciter in place to see what it sounds like. Don't use the glue pads for now just hold in place with light pressure. Radar should be ok weight wise. All batteries should not be charged in a model, ever! They all contain chemicals and if a fault develops or they leak explosive gases the last place they should be is in an enclosed environment. There are high power NiMhs that may be suitable as they can be had in different formations. Component Shop will make up a pack to your specs. If you rush the only thing being spoiled will be the boat!

Removing The Deck by NPJ Commander   Posted: 9 days ago
Understood you two (maybe three!) but you should remember that I am an only child, spoilt brat, therefore waiting is never the first or second option..................... I can live with not having smoke (sad) but I must have something else so probably radar rotating! I can understand not charging Lipo's in situ, but thought NiMh were so much safer? If not, that could be a way of reducing weight as has been suggested. Good news is that exciters have arrived ( incredible service) and they actually measure 2" or 50mm. Now there is progress. There is one space one rib back from the front of the motors that would not require surgery. Maybe not good from noise pick up but could be worth a try. TTFN NPJ

Fairmile D - MGB623 and MTB741 by reilly4 Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
Both Fairmile D boats 1/24 scale and are scratch built. They have both been about 6 years in operation. MGB623 is an MGB, flying the Norwegian flag and belongs to a good friend. Mine is MTB741. It is powered by 2 Graupner Speed 700 12V motors with NiMH batteries. The 6 pdrs and 20mm guns can rotate. It has a balsa planked hull and fibreglass skin. Decks and superstructure are also balsa. Guns are from tinplate and brass.

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by NPJ Commander   Posted: 11 days ago
Good morning Dave. I may need to cut away one of the hull 'ribs' on either side to get a flat area, but we will see. Busy week, but hope to draw out a 'layout' for those bits in the Hull and look at weight positioning. With using NiMh batteries, I am thinking that charging in the Hull may give me more flexibility with weight distribution. Could have choice to orientate Port/ Starboard then. Regards. NPJ

Sprinkles by Commodore-H Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 17 days ago
Sprinkles, a scratch built, U.S. Coast Guard PWB (patrol boat waterways) is just about done. Operating features include; working running and searchlight, rotating radar and blue emergency beacon. Water monitor on cabin roof can traverse and squirt water 10-15 feet. Bending tubing for the water monitor was difficult, it is actually a composite of several types. Nozzle was made on Unimat. Pump is a Sig "gas passer" Propulsion is from two 600 size motors geared 2:1 with 9.6V Nimh and 3 blade 45mm Graupner props

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by octman Captain   Posted: 19 days ago
I have an old Southampton , off E.Bay a couple of years ago. I fitted the Components shop mixer, 2x 3400mAH NiMh packs(one for each motor)2 Mtroniks 15A Marine vipers, Technobots diesel sound system and also a Technobots 16 channel sound system. There is not a lot of spare space! I had a problem with the mixer eventually. It worked very well, as I did not think the turning circle in the original form was very good. I took it out eventually and went over to tank steering, which is OK but seems to be more effective in turning one way rather than the other, it's fine in a straight line. I found out after I had removed the mixer that the supposed problem was of my own making. So many wires inside that I was not in fact charging one of the battery packs so it ended up flat. Nothing wrong with the mixer at all! I mounted the engine sound speaker in the lower half of the cabin,where there was just enough room, where the window openings are not glazed(at least on my boat they aren't). Sound was OK but it was a bit lacking in volume, but I may need a higher power speaker, not sure as audio is a non area to me. The 16 channel unit is good in that a micro SD card is supplied with pre- recorded sounds, and instructions are given on how to record your own. The difficulty with this particular sound system is finding somewhere to put the second speaker as the 2 systems cannot be fed into the same speaker. It was a bit faint to say the least,possibly due to the tiny speaker I used. I tried to fit a transducer glued to the underside of the deck but there was no improvement so that is a work in progress. The inside of the hull resembled a very untidy birds nest! CHris

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Mark, took me yonks to find them all🤔 I also experimented with battery athwartships, hope for better 'roll control' but eventually settled for between the shafts cos athwartships was too high. My 'pico' RX (ca. 5x1.5cm😉) can go almost anywhere, with Velcro to hold it in place. The dual ESC can go where the old 800mAh NiMH was. Later stage: smoke genny and lighting board in the lower superstructure, as apparently also in the latest versions! Mini SMD or strip LEDs for illumination and nav lights, mini 3V geared motor for the radar perhaps. Don't need a radio channel for this, just a switch and a couple of AA alkaline batts and away you go😉 Although these days you almost never see the antenna cos it's hidden in a 'burger-bun' radome a la Furuno! 😉 Somewhere on the WWW spider web I remember seeing a working towing tackle - must dig out the bookmark, might have been Krick! Cheers Doug 😎 Glad you're enjoying it Neil, that's the whole point ain't it? 👍

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Hi Doug, your LiPo pack will fit with room to spare between the prop shafts, a 7.2 NiMh pack just fits up to the gearbox, clearing the rear hatch lock is a problem, removed the underside of the catch and fitted a turnbuckle to hold the hatch closed. Take care removing the moulded plastic trays, they form part of the hull strength, only cut till you have clearance, not right down to the inner hull, (guess how i found out!!!) Mark

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Hi Doug, now that your bits have arrived, plan your fit out, remember the battery needs to be in a place where it can be easily removed, don't charge in the hull, as for the mini Tamiya plugs, i bought converter plugs from ebay, female to male. RN makes a good point, if you standardise on 1 plug system it is so much easier, i am in the process of changing all my batteries to the XT60 system, Lipo and NiMh, mini Tamiya are good for 10 amps, Tamiya at about 15 amps, XT60, about 60 amps, other plug systems are available, Deans etc, often it is the connectors which cause the problems. Mark

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Hi Mark, (and Dave)! hear where you're coming from! 👍 Mine is the original (or 2nd gen?) version with 40MHz and a piddly 7.2V 800mAh NiMh. And no 'special FX' 🤔 So I propose to use one of my pico 40Meg RXs and chop out all the then useless thick plastic trays. Velcro is enough for the miniature stuff I want to fit. Should then have less 'space problem' 😉 I will also fit a 2S LiPo, 4000mAh and the ESC/Mixer board. That's the first stage, after that smoke generator (and engine servicing kit Mark😉) can go in the lower superstructure, also a few lights and see how we go! Diesel sound also a possibility, have some small sound transducers from HobbyKing which work as hull resonators. Tip from one of the Fireboat drivers👍 All 'down the line', Sea Scout and PT Boat are ahead in the queue! Cheers Doug 😎 PS I'm talking about the Southampton not Richardson, maybe that has less below deck space?

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by NPJ Commander   Posted: 26 days ago
Good morning folks. Well a few (3)decisions taken on advice:- Futaba Tranny 6 channel and receiver Larger battery pack, going with NiMh rather than Lipo That gives me something to do in the bottom of the boat when I take the lid off.................... All this started with tidying up the Smaragd sail boat, so seem to have lost track a bit. However, Tug Boat much easier to manage on the bench and if I have you chaps helping over my shoulder, I am happy! Next two questions to those using/used such boats. What about having independent motor drives to improve maneuverability ? Increase size of rudders? I must now go and spend some money! Regards to all. NPJ.

FRESH BATTERY RUNNING TIME by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
Hi Les, Sorry🤔 but this is another "How long is a piece of string?" question. It's a simple equation to work out the theoretical endurance, but no input = no output! Inputs required are- Battery type and nominal capacity; mAh as printed on the battery pack, Current drawn by all the electrics connected to it: RX, servos, sail winches etc, auxiliary motor if fitted. I'll leave that bit to the sailing buffs here. I have zilch yachting experience. Re: depletion: Battery should not be left connected when not in use! You should have an ON/OFF switch in the boat to disconnect it. If not in use for longer periods it should be removed from the boat and periodically charged, only to 50% capacity for a LiPo when stored. stored NiCads and NiMh should be periodically cycled; that means discharging to the safe minimum and then recharging SLOWLY. Good chargers have automatic programs for this. Depletion, even when not connected to anything, depends on the battery type. A NiCad looses approx. 1% per month, NiMh and LiPos considerably less but still some depending on the internal resistance of the pack. Better quality (higher price) should mean lower internal resistance and less/slower natural depletion. Avoid cheapo 'no names'. A pic of the battery would be more use than one of the RX😉 Cheers Doug 😎

JOINING BATTERY & RECEIVER CABLE by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Les, then I assume that you need something like this harness with JR/Hitec male & female plug/socket. This one also has a third plug for connecting the battery to a charger when the switch is in the off position. DON'T use this feature if you are using a LiPo battery!! There are several other versions without this third plug available here I guess the RX battery is a fairly small NiMH and also has the JR type plug. BTW: something to check before switching on- Does your speed controller have a BEC circuit? If so it supplies the RX as well so you don't need an RX battery at all. Or doesn't your yacht have any auxiliary motor and ESC? Happy sailing, Cheers Doug 😎 Looking forward to the video of the insulting tape 😁😉 or is that what I keep seeing on the news with Mr T??