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BTW Martin, going back to your original post- "Plugged tested (6.2 volts) Nimhs into Rx and it starts flashing ..." Did you check that the RX is Bound to the TX? E.g. by trying it with just a simple servo before messing with the ESC? Doug
Hi Gordon, "the boat is to be a present for my son. He works abroad for long periods and I reckon a lead acid would go flat beyond recovery." In that case an SLA (especially the types produced to power alarm and emergency lighting systems) would be your best bet. They can be left on trickle charge indefinitely. Two 6V in series might be better than one 12V to help with trimming out the boat. I use a pair of 6V 3Ah (about 600gm each) in my 135cm destroyer and 107cm submarine. They run for hours if I don't keep the pedal to the metal all the time. 😉 Back home I stick 'em on the trickle charger and leave 'em until the next outing. They've lasted my several years so far. Much longer than my NiMhs. An NiMh looses approx 1% of it's charge per day. So, assuming it starts fully charged, in 3 months or less it would be in Deep Discharge and have joined the Dodos😭 Cheers, Doug 😎
Looking for more help please. I have settled for the Graupner Speed 600 8.4 Volt (4.8-9.6V) with the Mtroniks TIO Marine 30 Amp ESC driving a 3 blade brass 35mm prop. I need advise on what size of NiMh pack to use and will it be under propped with the 35mm 3 blade?
Sounds good to me Selwyn 👍 That board is a sensible (essential) idea in that setup. Stops a stronger battery trying to charge the weaker one.👍 I have several Action Electronics modules as well (duplicated some 😁) They're good, well made stuff. Anyway, your brushless ESCs will 'see' 12V so setting them up as running on NiMh should do the trick. If you set them up as 'LiPo' they might think it is a 3S 11.1V battery and try to let the volts go down to 9V before cutting off!! Not good for the SLAs 😡 IF they assume it is a 4S 14.8V Lipo they will cut off at 4x3.0 i.e. 12V which will drastically shorten your run time; you'd have to keep the SLAs near fully charged (13.6V) all the time. Bon chance mon ami, let us know how it goes. All the best, Doug 😎
Hi rapidair65, Most Brushless ESCs seem to assume that you are using either LiPo or NiMh batteries. It needs to know which so it can set the correct cut off voltage per cell, e.g. 3.=V for Lipo. From the applied voltage it can work out how many cells and the correct cut off. If you are using two SLA I assume 2x6V in series giving 12V. So tell the ESC that you are using NiMh and it will assume 10 cells @ 1.2V / cell. I'll be interested to hear how you get on as an SLA has nominally 2V per cell!! You should get away with it as the ESC checks the total voltage applied - it has no access to individual cells 😉 It will probably let the battery voltage go down to 11V before stopping the motor(s)😲 Good luck, Cheers, Doug 😎
Hi Martin, Looks like this one XXD HW30A 30A Brushless Motor ESC For Airplane Quadcopter Which means it ain't got no backuds! But I don't suppose that bothers you. Attached is the manual as pdf. Before you can run the ESC you have to program the type of battery; LiPo or NiMH. The ESC then sets the correct cut off voltage to protect the battery from deep discharge. See second page of pdf file for instructions. The ESC has a 5V 2A BEC. If you use a separate RX battery you MUST disconnect the small red wire from the RX plug! Bon chance, Cheers, Doug 😎
If the ESC has a BEC in it, do I have to forget the Rx pack of Nimhs? The ebay listing of something very similar says it has a BEC. Would it be better to just use the Nimhs, in which case how do I treat the ESC Rx wiring? just ignore it? Martin
Hello all, since I keep the weekend for me I thought I'd try hooking up all the lecktrickery for my brushless motor. It's one of they outrunning tiddlers. I have a 3S LiPo which is firing on all cylinders at 3.79 volts per. I plug it in to the ESC, some Chinese one I got recently. I soldered wires to a T type plug that fits the Overlander battery pack. I'd already soldered the 2mm connectors to the other end of the ESC wires and protected them with heat shrink. Plugged tested (6.2 volts) Nimhs into Rx and it starts flashing, then plugged ESC into a channel and the motor, yes , the MOTOR starts beeping! How the hell can that happen? I plug the battery in and the motor beeps even quicker! What on earth is happening? Needless to say, no rotation, buzzing, whistling, just beeps from a motor, clear as you like! Please help. I am already teetering on the edge of getting rid of all my working stuff as it takes up space and is such a damned faff! But what I have, I would like to work. Just long enough to prove it all. Martin
I am running a Graupner 360 with 3:1 gear box powered by 2400 NiMH 7.2 volt battery in this freighter. Is there a way to put a governor in the system so that when my grandson controls the model he can run it fast? I am not electronically apt so I am asking you who know such things.
Thanks Steve, my choice would have been lead acid, but the boat is to be a present for my son. He works abroad for long periods and I recon a lead acid would go flat beyond recovery. So my choice now is a NiMh Pack SubC of 9.8 or12V, minimum 5000mah in case he blows hiself up using LiPo's. I want the boat to have a speed around a brisk walking pace. Thank you again for your reply.
Hi all, I might have motors, ESCs RC gear, even LiPos and Nimh packs, but I ain't got the heavyish wire to hook it all up and although I had a gander on ebay, all I could find was made up cables, with invariably the wrong plugs on the ends, but I have bullets male and female coming out of my earoles, so just need....wire! Any idea who flogs the odd metre of the stuff that can be soldered into bullets? Martin
As Westie said don't use a Forstner it will take out too much at once. Use the 8 mm evenly both sides. Go gently.👍👍 Also see if any ballast has been added inside. This was often done to reduce heeling . It defeated it's own object as reducing the freeboard still put the lee rail under when heeling. Also what batteries are you using? A change to lighter ones may help. Lipos maybe but they may reduce duration.Nimhs may be a compromise. Or the ABC types All this assuming you are using R/c.
Thanks Doug but can't see a current rating. Just volts in and out. I thought about 10 Ohms but your numbers are right . Is 5 amps a bit high. It's only for up to 4 Nimh AA cells after all or are you playing safe? Sorry I don't know how I missed previous answers. A similar one shows 400 Mah. |But thinking back I think the original was 7.2 v @w250 Mah. I only think though.
Your more than welcome TJ. Re paragraphs etc; was a well meant 'Word to the Wise', just to make your interesting contributions easier to read. 😉 Keep up the good work👍 Which configuration did you decide on in the end? On my single screw boats, like my Sea Scout, I tend to just use the BEC from the ESC and no separate RX battery. On my multi screw ships, the majority actually, from two to four screws (PTB to HMS Belfast cruiser) I always use a separate RX battery. On the basis that I reckon that the drive battery already has enough to do 😉 So I use 4.8 or 6V NiMh batteries of around 1500 to 2000mAh. Always put a switch between the batt and the RX. Also a switch and a fuse, approx 5A lower than the ESC max current rating, between the drive battery and the ESC(s). All the best, Doug 😎