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>> Home > Tags > nimh

nimh
nimh
Graupner Elke HF 408 by AllenA Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 hours ago
Hi Dave and Doug. I love it when you two start chatting it's like tipping a cornucopia of knowledge all over the floor of my workshop. I found my original notes and the motor is a Mabuchi TD224 23. The shafts are: S.H.G Marine Miniature Propeller Shaft Assembly Stainless Steel Propeller Shaft assembly with Brass Outer Tube M2 Diameter Shafts An excellent range of miniature shaft and tube assemblies with Grade 303 Stainless Shafts and Hard Grade Brass outer Tubes. The outer tube diameter is 4mm, Shaft Diameter 2mm The Bearings are Oil / Water lubricated Acetyl material and are extremely hard wearing and quiet, The Shafts are Threaded at one end with an M2 Thread. The propellers are: RADIOACTIVE MA 3045 RC MODEL BOAT 3 BLADE 30MM PROPELLER M2 THREAD 2 OFF. As my Nimh battery is reading 8.09v so it's unlikely that there is a weak cell, I will recheck all the readings and be a little more precise to ensure I am not leading you on a wild goose chase. The biggest clue is that I have just measured the battery holder plate. The measurements are L130mm, H36mm and W65mm. Looks like the only battery that will fit is the PS-630 6V 3.0Ah 150mA 134(L) x 34(W) x 60(H)mm 0.7kg or similar. This looks right as it will probably take care of the ballast issue and it's no wonder my normal 6v battery wouldn't fit. It will be a couple of weeks before I can put her on the lake but at least the battery is ordered. Thanks again for all the info. One final thing... Can you tell me how to measure propeller pitch?

Graupner Elke HF 408 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Evenin' Dave, "Interesting stats especially the stall current. This would rate the motor at 280 Watts with your 7.2v battery" 😲 If the battery pack was 7.2 volts nominal and was 'healthy' then according to Allen's measurements it was down to an average of about 0.98V per cell. Also not so healthy for a NiMH. 5.91/5=1.182 volts per cell. A healthy voltage for NiMH 😊 Indicates a shorted cell if it was a 7.2 pack, and the healthy cells could still deliver 40A for a short while. If the boat needs ballast anyway I would go for the useful ballast of a 6V SLA. Which is what I intend to use in my Danish cutter with the Taycol Target. Such boats don't need the short term, high current that NiMH and LiPos can deliver. G'night All, Cheers Doug 😎

Graupner Elke HF 408 by AllenA Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi Dave, Can't find the motor I have on the Mabuchi site. My guess it is quite old. I think it is a TD 224 that I picked up at a boot sale from a model plane enthusiast. So far I have run it on a 7.2v nimh so will change to 6v asap. I gave it full throttle in the bath and no sign of heat or fumes in battery, motor or esc. Thanks for the help. As you say a quick turn around the lake is in order. The fuse advised by Doug is now installed.

Dumas 1203 Coast Guard Lifeboat (RNLI Waveney conversion) by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Hi I have the Billings version as does a fellow club modeller. Initially I used two 300 motors with a 12v 1.3amp battery placed in the rear cabin space. Good for about 4 mins then died. I now use two brushless 28xx size 30 amp ESC and an 11.1v Lipo 2.1 amp. My friend has a similar set up. Gives about 30 mins and exceptional speed. The lipo sits where the SLA was. I can understand your concerns about the lack of warning on your Mtronic but you can source battery alarms that will emit a loud noise when the cell voltage gets below the set voltage. Providing you are paying attention you will hear and bring the boat home. The running time will be similar on each occasion so you could also use a stop watch (on your phone). I have tried NiMhs but they lack the power and are nearly as heavy as the SLA.

Dumas 1203 Coast Guard Lifeboat (RNLI Waveney conversion) by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
So here we go again! I have decided to give other projects a rest for a time in favour of this little gem. Pick up off eBay for less than £100 NIB posted, couldnt resist! Its the Dumas (kit no:1203) 44' Coast Guard Lifeboat. I dont know if this kit is still produced by Dumas and having looked at the Die cutting of the parts, certainly seems like an old kit? However, I love my building and the challenges, so I am sure it will turn out nice at the end. Finished length 33". I shall be converting this to a RNLI Waveney Class Lifeboat and will possibly go with 44-003 named "Khami" which was based in Great Yarmouth and Gorleston, which is local to me here in Suffolk. Sadly very little turns up on this boat via Google, but at some stage may pop out to the Great Yarmouth Lifeboat station and see if I can hunt anymore info on her. I shall not be using the recommended Dumas running gear for 2 reasons, 1st its a geared set-up (I am going with MFA540 brushed direct drive) and the cost of over £150! Photos show the box artwork, plans and the included wood. Last photo shows my electrics less propshafts and props that are on order. Note the Star Wars 3.75" figures that with poetic licence could be painted to represent crew. However, at this point the model is approx 1;16 scale and the figures would be 1:18 scale so maybe too small. There are 1:16 scale lifeboat figures available but pricey? My one issue at this point is going to battery choice? do I go with a small 6v lead acid or perhaps 2 Tamiya type 7.2v NIMH in series. anyone who has built anything like this may want to advise. LIPO not an option as the Mtroniks ESC do not support LIPO. Space inside the hull may also be an issue? Another issue is going to be fabricating some propshaft struts for the rear next to the props. There is quite a bit of prop shaft exposed outside the hull, so these would be integral to support and strength of the propshafts. Is there anything available off the shelf (they are included in the running gear set, but dont seem to be available on there own) of do I need to fabricate from brass tube and sheet/strip brass?

Too Powerful Brushless ? by reilly4 Commander   Posted: 16 days ago
Thanks Dave, Eventually we will have put together a body of knowledge that model boat builders can use with some certainty. At present the information is sketchy, hard to find and sometimes ambiguous. The motor designers and manufacturers have not been very helpful. For my La Combattante iii missile boat I used two Hobbyking Keda 720kV motors rated at 215 Watts and 19.3amps max. They were the first brushless motors I tried. I was not sure how many amps they would draw, so I connected an ammeter and fitted my video camera so it read the amps whilst operating. At full speed they used only 8 amps each. Each of the batteries is from 12V made from 9 x NiMH 9Ah D Cells. I easily get over an hour run time at good speed. The boat is 1605mm long so not small. This information may help someone.

Affinity racing jacht by watson220 Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
SPECIFICATION: Total lenght:650mm Beam:150mm Mast height :915mm Overal height: 1338mm RTR total weigh:1290g (without 4pcs AA batteries) Hull material Plastic Sail material : Mylar INCLUDED: *Completed hull with pre applied graphics. *Two milar film sail sets *Carbon fiber masts and booms ]2Rigs] *Zinc alloy ballast and aluminium alloy fin *Powerful sail winch *Metal gear rudder servo *Battery box an On/Off switch for receiver *AA Nimh batteries 2200mAh for transmitter and *rc/radio FrskyTaranis 2.4Ghz

46" Firefloat What Motor/Battery by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi John, you might now be scratching your head, and wishing you have not asked the original question! This seems to be a common issue, as the boating community is light years behind the other disciplines, rc cars, planes helis and so on, its probably due to the facts general boating doesnt really need the later generation technology, the average boater age is probably higher than the other disciplines so budgeting might be an issue, and there is less younger blood in the clubs to explain the lipo/brushless etc. We see posts with a load of numbers, specs, warnings etc, its enough to put people off. Im a big fan of brushless/lipo/ 2.4 etc, been doing it for years, its cheaper and more efficient (once you have the basics) but for the average guy, who just wants to spend an easy afternoon at the local lake gently cruising around, brushed motors, nimhs batteries, even lead acid, will do the job👍 Your 4 foot ply boat, once painted, with fittings, will be heavy, I know, I own one. Those 600 motors are not big enough, they are better suited to the smaller 3 foot boat, then, pushing them with a 6v lead acid, just cant do it. The battery will be screaming HELP!! I started 15 years back exactly the same, 600 motor, 6v battery, massive 50mm prop, I knew no better and took advise from people who didnt know what they were talking about😡, remember those gold hi tech speed controllers!! I had one, it melted, literally melted on the first use😭 Get 700 size motors, they will need to be water cooled, as mentioned by jarvo, the nominal voltage or below isnt good enough, power them at the max voltage. Brushed means you can use one apropriate esc, look out for electronize (are they still in existance?) or mtroniks, preferably use nimhs batteries over lead acid with a high mah. If after all this you want to venture into lipos and brushless motors, go to a club, spot a boat that is similar in size to yours, if you like the performance talk to the owner and gain experience and knowledge that way, it will save money, lost time and a lot of disappointment, I have been there so feel your pain. I say I would never go back to brushed motors and none lipo batteries, but I always want silly speed, not runtime, after 15 minutes Ive had enough and am bored. Rambling over! My 4 foot boat is twin brushless and uses 4 lipo 5000mah cells per motor, it will do 25mph for 15 mins, then I go home😁 Message is, you can get a "reasonable" performance from brushed motors, with the correct batteries, right props, but weight is the enemy. Looks lie you are at Biddulph, get onto Dave M a moderator on here, and arrange to go over to see the crewe and district boys on one of their sailing days, take your boat with you, they will help👍

M Sonic microprocessor ESC. by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Colin Looks a bit like the Graupner Pollux tugs, I had a similar vintage tug from the early 1960s called Libeccio, was free running, Mighty Midget and fixed adjustable rudder. Converted to rc and used to push my Mercantic coaster around as they were similar scales. The hull eventually disintegrated (early extruded plastic) but my friend Bill managed to make a mould and cast in resin. In fact we use the hull with different designs for children to sail at shows. I usually have one in stock as they make a good starter model for new members. 300 size motors with a 10 amp ESC and 6v Nimh work fine. Hope you mange to get yours going.

what shall we make with this! by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
so following a plea for a cast off boat for a friend, Dave generously donated this hull, its very nice. We discussed a gun boat, in a stand off sort of scale, as he likes military, with perhaps a superstructure that can be removed, and a different one made to fit, so two boats In one. But the more I look at it, the more I think it would make a minesweeper etc sort of thing. I'm not that well up with this sort of craft, its 43 inches long, so quite narrow, It has to be pretty much "none fussy" as the owner and builder is relatively new to this, Ill help, but its his boat, and he has clumsy hands, 😊 so it wont be super detailed. Easy to use, so single screw, more than likely brushed motor running nimhs or even lead acid (ouch🤓 that goes against everything I do!)_ Ideas please!

MTB385 & MTB623 by reilly4 Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Vosper 73ft Type 1 MTB - Scratchbuilt. Now running two brushless motors and NiMH batteries. Photos previously posted. 1/24 Scale Fairmile D MTB623 belongs to a good friend. This boat was also featured in a previous video with my Fairmile D. The lake was a bit choppy with realistic sea conditions.

MV TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Before the funnel could be installed wanted to fit a working radar scanner, navigation lights and the batteries. Decided to use sub C NIMH batteries in plastic holders, they should have the target endurance and provide some ballast. Fitted two sets of 4 cells, one at the forward end of the superstructure and the other at the rear, both at keel level. These were inserted into wooden battery trays to hold them in place. A dry test run showed a full speed motor run time well exceeding the hour target, so will try on water. Also took the opportunity to fit the Rx and then adjust the rudder before finishing off the wiring. Both the navigation lights (LEDs) and the radar scanner work. The radar is driven by a servo with the potentiometer removed and a magnetic drive shaft run up through the superstructure from below the deck. The motor requires about 9 volts to run at what would seem to be something approximating to scale speed; fitted a voltage reducer to allow the lights and the radar to work on less than 6 volts. The mast lights are to be installed in a separate circuit after the masts are added. As I get more into the detail it is evident the GA drawing and the photographs of the vessel in service differ. Fortunately the component locations seem consistent, although the equipment is not. This most apparent in the hold ventilators. The GA shows the standard cowl vents, but the photographs show a mixture between an vertically squeezed oval vent (which am advised is more typically German) and ventilator columns with cylindrical caps. The column style vents with cylindrical caps were easily made from two different sizes of styrene tube with the cap tops made from styrene offcuts. The squeezed oval style vents were more difficult. Broke them down into the major parts of the cylindrical vertical tube and, from a larger tube cut a small ring and filed one end to straddle the tube once it had been squeezed oval. Glued it into place whilst restrained in a small hand vice. Once set, removed and sanded the the two to give a smooth transition, closing the rear aperture off with styrene offcuts. Then resorted to wood filler, filed down to give a smooth, oval vent.

HS Simitzopoulos P28 by reilly4 Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
1/35 Scale model of the La Combattante IIIB Class Fast Missile Boat of the Hellenic Navy. The boat is scratchbuilt. It is 1606mm long. It has 2 brushless 720Kv motors and NiMH batteries. The 76mm guns can traverse and elevate. The 30mm guns can traverse. Both radars rotate and there are LED running lights.

Fairey Huntsman & Swordsman by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Andy, I have 'twined both the 34" and the 48" Huntsman, i used 600 size motors in the 34, and 850 motors in the 48. Both were very quick, but, the run time was poor, about 10 mins. With modern lipo's or big Nimh batteries they would be a lot longer especially if you used brushless motors. Props, on the 34, they were 35mm x 3 blade brass, on the 48, they were 45mm x 3 blade brass. Sad but i sold them some years ago but now have a 48" fireboat to play with. Mark

Happy Hunter by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
No worries mate, have the esc's got a max and min voltage??? they may not work at 6volts, if not then a set of 7.2v NimH packs will be brilliant x2 or possibly 4 packs with a Y lead for each pair, 3300mah packs are going for a good price on ebay at the moment, also have a look at component shop and hobbyking, be sure you are on the uk site to keep the postage down!!!! Wouldn't bother with lipo batteries, SLA or NimH are more user friendly. If you want the H/H superstructure try contacting Krick they now make the kit, took over from Robbe when the went bust. Are the propshafts ok??? withdraw the shafts and lightly oil them get the oil into the inner bearing as well. Mark