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>> Home > Tags > nozzle

nozzle
kort nozzle
nozzle
Maggie M by ikseno99 Petty Officer   Posted: 14 hours ago
[Score: 6/10] 34"/10000g Maggie M Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 120mins Single Propellor (4 Blade 50mm) Direct Drive Powered by Lead Acid (6v) 12Amp/h Batteries - Comments: A Model Slipway Kit Built by my late father in law, Frank Ballard Runs well, handles Ok with its Becker Rudder and Kort Nozzle. Maybe time for a refit

Mahogany in Scale by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Well Martin, its their loss. I try to make everything except the electrics. I suppose I'm lucky in being a retired prototype engineer, with my own machines and space to work. These days I am restoring more than building, I find it more challenging. Spotted a vintage boat in antique shop today, it had diesel marine power and valve and relay control system with a strange adjustable korts nozzle arrangement. I am trying to get the wife to let me buy it. Cheers Colin.

Painting. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Evenin' Neville, For a first attempt spraying that's damn good👍 I prefer to use a 0.8mm nozzle for 'big' areas such as hulls. 0.5 for the 'fine' stuff, e.. cabins and fittings, which I still need to practice! Will need it when I come to the cammo pattern for PT109. Practice makes perfect they say! Basic rules (THEY also say😁) are- Paint consistency should remind you of milk (no cream!), Don't get to close, Don't move too slow! Keep up the good work👍 Cheers, Doug 😎

Painting. by MouldBuilder Commander   Posted: 16 days ago
Hi Doug. Thanks. You are right about the first aid. Clumsy. Good that my wife is a nurse me thinks.😆 No. This is my first attempt at spraying anything like this. That is why I ask a lot of questions. I try to build up knowledge and the courage to have a go. I was lucky this time, so far anyway. It is not perfect by any stretch, nothing like yours, but I am relatively happy with it. Takes quite a while with a 0.5mm nozzle but once you get going, you soon learn that the paint does not go on too thick so the chances of it running are less, I think.

Emerald - "Round the Word" ocean racing yacht. by East-RN Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 22 days ago
Auto Bailout Modification. 1. I drilled small holes in the lower corners of the cockpit wells, opposite each other. These were then connected together with some small brass tube. This was to allow the water to flow from the front cockpit to the rear cockpit. (See pictures 1 and 2). 2. Two more holes were drilled in the rear cockpit, in the outer corners further aft. these were fitted with brass tube stubs. These were to take the plastic tube, which runs to the nozzles fitted into the hull (see picture 3 and 4). 3. To ensure the water would not flow into the boat, while stationary, the tubes were run through small eyelets on the under side of the deck(see picture 5). 4. Small holes were drilled in the hull and brass tubes were cut and bent, so that they would pass down through the hole in the hull, and lay flush against the hull, with the opening facing aft(see picture 6 and 9). 5. On the outer hull, the tube is built up, and covered in a cone shape, so the tube opening is the widest part of the cone and flush( see picture 7 & 8). 6. When the tubes are fitted to the stubs on the aft cockpit, and the cockpit secured in the yacht, the bale out is complete. Principle: While the boat is still and on an even keel, the cockpit floor is above the waterline, the tubes raise up to the deck level which prevents the water from flowing up and into the yacht. When the yacht starts to move under sail, the water flowing over the outlet nozzle is forced out by the cone, and creates a small vacuum at the nozzle opening, which draws any water in the cockpit through the tube and out through the nozzle. During a gust or strong winds, the yacht will heel over more. This will bring all the cockpit water to the lower side bailout tube, and be drawn out by the vacuum. When the yacht slows, and becomes even keeled, the cockpit will have been emptied. During heavy gusts, I found that the yacht will heel excessively, and if the waves are high enough, the cockpit will take some water over the deck. This is why I fitted the bailout device. So after a long sail in heavy weather, a long cruise back to shore on a broad reach and more even keel, will ensure the cockpit is dry. Happy Cruising

Spektrum, new, useless... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
Yep, otherwise known as a 'Jockstrap' 😲 SC is too sweet for me, and prefer V&T to G&T. Can't get the smell of gin passed me schnozzle 😡 Pims #1 is also good. Tally Ho chaps! Temp here has collapsed 10°C again, cloudy and rainy. Expecting 37°C again at end of the week though, Phew!! GWS to Chris, cheers, Doug

Booster nozzle by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
My suggestion would be to contact the Kehrer shop directly. They are most likely to answer any of your queries. Looking at the booster nozzle it looks like a circular section squeezed into a smaller square with the cross fins to straighten out the jet thrust.

Booster nozzle by yiyo94 Apprentice   Posted: 2 months ago
Hello! I would like to get some information about the booster nozzles. (https://www.kehrer-modellbau.de/en/kmb-jet28/jet-drives/kmb-... style='background-color:yellow;'>nozzle) If I don't want to steer at all, is it better to install one of these instead of the round ones? Are they only additional nozzles? Why are they square shaped? Thanks!!👍

54 year old Crash Tender by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I would like first to say that this is NOT a restoration. It has always been mine and followed me around all those years, been used extensively on Oyster beds on the Essex coast and Valentine's Park in Ilford, Essex...even the great Victoria Park, of which my Granddad was a founder member. It has eaten its way through lantern batteries out of number which my Dad, who was in the business could magic from thin air. There was always a nook in the boot of the Triumph Town and Country saloon and then the Austin Westminster for another new lantern battery, which the Taycol would destroy in about 20 intermittent minutes of left, centre, right, centre from the REP single channel gear. How I wish I still had that, but it was stolen. The REP, that is, the Taycol remains, restored and cleaned and like new again waiting to go back in the boat. I finally decided I should finish it. My wife bought me a set of white metal fittings by Yeoman out of IP Engineering, so I have no excuse. Not that I need one. It has suffered a bit over that half a century, losing odd panels, but they are easily remade and replaced. First, I had to clean out the insides of the detritus and loft life of decades. Vacuuming, scraping with a pointy thing and brushing with a stiff brush, followed by more vacuuming using a clever attachment that my dear wife thought might be useful and it was, being at least a dozen stiff, but small diameter tubes poking out of the end of a nozzle. It both pokes and nudges the old dirt and dust and sucks it away. After that the old thin mahogany deck planks, my friend thought to add in the late 60s were removed and saved where salvageable as I quite like them for trim on other boats. The deck was rather brutalised with a coarse rasp and any loose nails punched back in flush or slightly below. Then some way too old, but still good, epoxy (WEST) was used to slar all over the decks and most of the insides, even some of the cabin sides. That will be finished before dark today. I can hardly believe the epoxy still works, but it does, perfectly and so is pressed into use. In this warm weather it set very quickly. I did my usual trick of squeegeeing it on into the grain with an old credit card or Gummi, which is a sample block of silicon. Styrene will also do. I use some spare 2mm stuff I was given (that guy at IP Engineering again). The roofs had already been corrected the other evening and heavily cellulose sanding sealed. The forward cabin removeable roof was unwarped by having a tight fitting diagonal piece of pear pressed in under the top skin and glued. The new hatch on that roof was made and the shape of the roof and hatch runners changed slightly, as per drawings from this site. Here are pics. of the work today. The above resinning, the remade cabin panels a new wheelhouse bulkhead and the tow hook base panel, finally a new aft cockpit rear coaming which it never had but should have. Cheers, Martin

Fairmount Alpine - TUG! by thepirate Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 5 months ago
yes also building one A lot of work to complete yet. Fitted with 2x mfa 6/1 motors and bow thruster ,kort nozzle, becker rudders,all windows fitted with individual glazing a lot of time consuming, still a lot to do

The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-)) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi Boatshed, the Germans have a saying / proverb "Übung macht den Meister"! = 'Practise makes the master' or Practise makes perfect! Basic reasons for runs are- 1) spraying too close and 2) moving the nozzle too slow, Both resulting in a heavy coat that can't support it's own weight! Also trying to put another coat on before the previous one is fully dry and hard. Like I said; Patience is the main secret ingredient 😉 Cheap cans spit, quality cans don't! The ones I use, esp. the K Series for cars, come with a selection of colour coded nozzles for Small areas cone, Medium to large cone and a large area fan shape. Mostly I use the medium nozzle. Small one if 'touch-ups' are needed 😲They nozzles also fit DIY shop cans 😊 Start spraying beyond the object and carry on at an even pace beyond the other end. Go back in a slightly overlapping stripe until there's an even THIN coat all over. Then - FIND SOMETHING ELSE TO DO FOR A HALF HOUR OR SO!! It's like the old lady in Brooklyn who asked a Cop 'How do I get to Carnegie Hall'? Cop's answer "Practise lady, practise" 😁 BTW: shaking a good bit longer and heating the can in hot water (to increase the pressure!) can sometimes help with the 'spitting'.👍

The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-)) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi Boatshed, Know what you mean about brushing and brushes! You CAN achieve the same effect with brushes, but it takes much longer, with much more flattening in between coats. So much more 'secret ingredient is needed! Brushes from DIY shops, and most model shops, you can forget 🤔 too synthetic, too coarse and too prone to shedding hairs. 😡 For tiny detailing work, esp on Plastic Magic projects, I went to an art supplies store! Prompted by the GF who is into oil and water colour painting! There you will find a great selection of very fine real hair brushes in sizes from 'Help I can't see it'! to about 1" flat, used for applying 'washes' 😉 Not cheap, but quality never is! For example; I'm using a 1/4" flat camel hair brush for renovating the wood decks of my Graf Spee and HMS Belfast with sealer and satin varnish from the Lord nelson range. Will also apply some Jotica Oak stain to dampen the bright colour a bit. For the pinstripe / Boot Topping on the Sea Scout I'm 'Going for Gold', to be applied with the finest airbrush nozzle I have and using Tamiya masking tape to get a good clean edge. hardest part will be getting the tape on right 😲 Hope I don't mess up what I have already achieved! Cheers Doug 😎

The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-)) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Thanks Boatshed👍. Yep, after consultation here on the site I've decided to 'Go For Gold' pin-striping. Never attempted that before, hope I don't screw up the hull 😲 Sea Trials have been postponed due to snow and sub-zero temperatures again 😡 Soon as it warms up I'll be off with TX and cam! Oh yes, and perhaps the boat as well😁 PS: Have some gold enamel (14ml tin) so will fire up the compressor and use my smallest air brush nozzle ~0.03mm! Out of practise so will try on scrap wood / gloss photo paper first!!!! 😉 Many thanks to all for the very encouraging responses 😊😊 All the best, Doug 😎

Command Boat 90 by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
I tried one of these but couldn't get it to reverse the boat. Possibly not got the correct set up for the jet nozzle. It pushed a 30 inch fiber glass fast patrol boat very well, might try to sort outlet to give better control. You've raised my interest again thanks, Colin.

Hovercraft by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
One of our members used a couple of old drone bits to make a twin prop version with steerable nozzles. Worked OK but very twitch as only a small craft like yours and the motors were powerful.