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>> Home > Tags > outrunner

outrunner
out-runner
outrunner
Red Cat hydroplane by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi, thanks for the info👍 I'm new to BLs, but learning fast, and your experience confirms my growing suspicions that outrunners not only deliver more torque than inrunners (size for size) but that they are also more reliable and seldom need water cooling. Your new motor seems to be a larger diameter 58mm?, as opposed to 31mm for the old one, so I begin to wonder if the old ones were simply overloaded by a big prop causing them to draw more and more current and hence cook! 😡😭 Check out this test drive (Italian)of your new type motor!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4_dlcLbFehw cheers Doug 😎 PS Caption says that with more than 3/4 throttle the boat becomes unstable! Then it flips 🤔

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Hi Neil, yes, very similar. Could be regarded to as a first step before applying Eze-Kote to give it a harder, knock and almost everything else resistant surface. Hammerite then sticks to it like the proverbial to the blanket and you have a super clean 'engine compartment' dead easy to keep clean. 😊 80 quid for a brushless !!! Do you want it gold plated or what? My Propdrive 2830 cost less than 20 knicker from Hobbyking and was delivered almost before I ordered it! Just make sure it comes from the UK or EU (still!?🤔) warehouse and not USA or Global. otherwise you might get stuck for import tax 😡 For the motor mount / shaft alignment: no one said it was easy, but Nothing's Impossible', maybe that's why I drive Toyota!!😁 back end is determined by the diameter of the prop you want to fit, which in the case of brushless motor should be roughly the same diameter as the brushless (outrunner). In my case 28mm motor and 30mm prop. This defines how far you can lift the aft end of the shaft, leave at least 1cm between the prop tip and the hull! This reduces unwanted interaction between the vortex from the prop and the lamina flow along the hull, result; more forward thrust and better rudder effect. (Didn't spend 30 odd years talking to shipyards for nowt😉) If you have plan (or at least a sketch - take some measurements if you don't have one of these and make a sketch) of the keel and existing motor mount; project back from the newly determined exit point of the shaft. Check how far forward you need to go to be able to comfortably fit the motor mount with good alignment and purchase a shaft of appropriate length. Cut a wood block to fit around the keel as the basic mount and 'fiddle' with it until your motor and mounting (e.g. the Robbe / Romarin 400 mount) aligns with the shaft line. Alignment is checked by running the motor at a fixed low speed with an ammeter showing the current it draws. Shim the motor mount up / down, and shift slowly from side to side until the current reading is a minimum. Then glue and screw everything in place quick before anything moves! Takes almost longer to describe than to do😉 The coupling type shown in my photo is called a 'Steg' coupling here in Germany (don't know the English🤔) and available from Krick Modellbau, for various motor shaft / prop shaft diameters, here the link to their English page- http://www.krickshop.de/?shop=krick_e Part number for the 3.17mm (1/8") to 4.0mm version I used is 63902. part number for the motor mount I used for my 28mm brushless is 42117. Advantages (to me at least!) they are not as long as the traditional UJ and Cardan types, they are resilient but don't flop about like the UJ types so are much easier to fit and align. Cos they are shorter you can use 'em for mountings in confined spaces. And they don't make no noise!! 😉 One final tip (may not be so useful on hard plywood built boats!). When I had this problem with my destroyer I sharpened the end of an 8mm alu tube (same as the shaft tube dia) and used it to bore back from the hull exit to the last bulkhead before the motor mounts. the bulkheads though were 1/4" balsa! Nice and soft man 😉 Hope this helps more than confuses, but it all worked for me! Cheers and happy fiddling, Doug 😎

Deans Seaplane tender by epmbcmember Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 24 days ago
Many thanks Dave M. I have got a 2826 brushless motor, a 30a esc and a 7.4 lipo battery, all from Component Shop. I am told nobody makes a motor mount for outrunner brushless motors, or is there a source for them out there somewhere.

VERNON River Police Launch by Northumbrian Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I built this from a set of plans that i had sized up it measures 43"x12" & runs on a 1400kv Outrunner Motor / 40A esc / 11.1v 5000mah battery 3 bladed Brass 50mm M4 Prop I was waiting delivery of a new camera so could not record the earlier stages of the build

Richards 48" Swordsman by rmwall107 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
see; a bit of digging in the depths of the mind you never know what you will remember. the motor i am using is an E-Power BL4020/08 522kv 60A Outrunner Brushless Motor. I will let you know how i get on

Richards 48" Swordsman by canabus Captain   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi The D3548/4-1100kv 910watts is outrunner brushless with rear mounting. Depends on the prop size and number of blades you wish to use. On the 3639-1100 the 2 blade 40mm works well, but, I tested a 3 blade 37mm and drop speed and increased amps.

Richards 48" Swordsman by rmwall107 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Hello the power set up is to be a brushless outrunner i have been told they have more torque than inrunners. i will let you know how it goes.

Brushless in or out by canabus Captain   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Sonar I have used both in boats and with no watercooling. No problems with both types. The in runners are good for replacing brush motors as the 35mm brushless motor are the same bolt holes as the 540 brush motors. My first brushless was a Trackstar 17T 2400kv into an old rc car, 90watts to 550 watts, turn it into an insane rocket. The main brushless motors we use in the boating club are Hobbyking 3639 750 and 1100kv, 3648 1450kv and the outrunner D3548 1100kv with a 2 blade 40-50mm props. ESC's are the car 60 and 100 amp which handle 2S to 4S Lipo batteries.

Brushless in or out by John Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Sonar, I prefer to use outrunners whenever possible as they do not require additional cooling. The down side is you need to have space around the motor. John.

Brushless in or out by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Ooops! Yep I had saved the page! Here's the link. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brushless_DC_electric_motor For big 'eavy boats an advantage of outrunners is the high tork at low revs 😉 😎

Brushless in or out by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Sonar Inrunner brushless have an outer case which remains static just like a brushed motor. Outrunner brushless have an outer case that revolves around the central core which remains static. The revolving outrunner case forms a flywheel which is beneficial when driving a model boat prop where the water resistance is greater than a plane propeller in air. The effect lessens with larger motors used say for fast speed boats. Doug That link appears to be to a file somewhere but there is no url. Dave

Brushless in or out by none Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Brushless motors. Just a question about them.. What is the real difference between an inrunner and an outrunner ?

Motor upgrade by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Hi colindavies The D2836 will be more than adequate. In fact two 22xx type at 1000kv would be also suitable. You will also need two suitable brushless ESCs but they do not need to be more than 30amps each. The props should be the same diameter as the motor case so your existing props may be too big. I use a 35mm 3 bladed brass prop on my 34" Crash tender driven by a 3536 brushless outrunner and it really flies with an 11.1v 2200Ma LiPo. The 22xx size motors are popular with the quadcopter brigade and e-bay have offers for motors and escs. If you want reverse on the ESC this may be dearer. Dave

brushless motor for a aerokits sea commander by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Hi Adijohn Welcome to the site. You can search the site for Sea Commander and will find how others have progressed with their builds. Regarding brushless I would expect a 35mm outrunner to be a suitable size with a prop of the same diameter and direct drive. The entry level power supply would be a NiMh battery of about 5000mAhr at 9.6 to 12v. If you really want the speed and endurance then LiPo is the best but does cost more and needs correct handling both when sailing and especially when charging. Brushless motors have kv ratings which indicate the free load speed per volt, so for an 800Kv motor at 10v = 8000revs (it will be less under load). They also have a wattage limit which is the product of the voltage times the amps, so for 10v at 20 amps this is 200 watts. If you exceed this the motor will overheat and fail. The ESC also has a max amp rating and best practice suggests this is twice the expected running current. You can buy a wattmeter to measure current and watts. There are many suppliers but have a look at http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Component-Shop?_trksid=p2047675.l25... Hope this helps and if you like my response please tick the like box to help others find the post. Good luck and please post details of your build. Dave

raf crash tender by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 months ago
Hi Dave, good to hear from you (sorry to hijack thread). 4 footer came out two years ago, Huntsman once in 2016, Its over 3 years since the 3 footer got wet! Orca once in 2016. I did build the PCF which I really liked, but it went immediately as too many people messaged saying they wanted it, so it funded some RC plane gear, which I am really into now. I sold a load of bits and bobs at the Blackpool show a few months ago, didn't renew with St Helens in 2015, or 2016, and wont this year. However.... Robs excellent blog has got me interested again, and Stephen kindly did a bespoke 3 d printing project on something rc related, info and pics to follow when its finished! Back on track... George, I'm going to advise only things I have done, or used, I'm not one to say do this, or that, but actually I have not done it myself. No doubt others will disagree, but this is my opinion only. Best performance in terms of speed is brushless, and lipo. Forget fear of fire and explosions, this only happens with abuse, and they are the common use with rc planes, helicopters, cars, its only boats that are really stuck in the dark ages with technology that have this big fear of brushless systems and lipos! However, to get initially set up, they do take more understanding and initial cash outlay, as you need a specific charger for one, and you do need to understand what you are doing. Brushless motors will unlease the power far more than brushed, and are usually lighter. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-t600-brushless- style='background-color:yellow;'>outrunner-for-600-heli-880kv.html This motor is an example, there are much cheaper ones with similar specs, but I have used this motor in various applications, the most similar to your boat being my large Huntsman, with this motor on 6 cells lipo I achieved 25mph, but speed might not be what you want. So if you have the fast engine in your car, say a v12 Ferrari, if you run it on cheap fuel, it wont perform, same here, nicads and nimhs batteries are easy to maintain, you can drain them dead flat, but will give cheap fuel performance, like a bath tap trickling when the shower is on at the same time, and as they are dying technology, are expensive for what they are. Lipo is like turning up both bath taps and the force floods out, but now the tank will empty quicker, so you have less run time 😊 If brushless, its a specific speed controller, https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbyking-50a-boat-esc-4a-ubec.h... and you pay extra for reversing (other rc disciplines don't need reverse) and a marine esc might need to be water cooled, however, decent brushed motor speed controllers are not exactly cheap, so now you know why budget is important to give advice, you could be spending £100 here just to get up and running. Look at my 4 foot fireboat build blog, as its twin screw (personally a boat this size is better twin screw) you can get by with cheaper motors, mine where £30 the pair, I use lipo for all my boats, so I have the batteries, and are familiar with using them, the speed controllers where about £40 the pair, and if I was buying batts then probably another £40, so it all adds up! Single screw, less batteries. You could power with nimhs, and it might be acceptable ,performance for you. If your location is Ellesmere Port, have a Sunday morning drive to Hoylake, then New Brighton, and maybe take in St Helens Liverpool, and Runcorn, see boats in action, see what sort of performance suits you, and rethink the budget, what do you want to spend? Then you need the transmitter and receiver (if you don't already have these) the fittings (see Robs build blog) a prop shaft, and a suitable propeller I am North Wirral, you are more than welcome to come and have a chat and see some boats, but unfortunately I'm deep into another rc project for the next few weeks, once that is done I can share some time, if you want! Don't worry, I'm not all about speed, I can do brushed motors and nimhs and get a result, Any questions, just ask, Paul PS... Looks like a nice clean boat you have there😉