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>> Home > Tags > outrunner

outrunner
out-runner
outrunner
Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 hours ago
Thanks, Doug, the blue brushless is held by something that grabs the smaller cylinder and the rest spins round, ergo, outrunner. If I ever make a lightweight I might try one in there. The brushed 400 I will try in the Sea Hornet. Gotta be worth a try. And that Simprop should be OK for it, n'est ce pas? What concerns me is the lack of sizes available in props. They all seem to start at 35mm which might be a little too hefty for the 400, but I can't find a 30mm anywhere. I also found the Hornet II I carved a while back with a view to getting it scanned for frame sections, so that's another wee job to finish off. I am looking forward to doing that one. Cheers, Martin

Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
OK, found one, 'discontinued product' 🤔 Seems Tower pro only make gas engines these days. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/towerpro-brushless- style='background-color:yellow;'>outrunner-2408-21.html Specs "TP 2408-21 The most widely used towerpro motor available today. the 2408-21T is often used in GWS (means Grand Wing System, USA apparently!) upgrades. Paired with just an 18A besc, this motor is an excellent and cheap way to upgrade small planes to brushless. An RD1047, RD9070 or 8040 size propeller are the best choice, with the RD9070 and 8040 giving the best thrust and amp draw balance. For 2-3 Li-Poly Cells (7.2-12.6V) 31 mm diameter x 62 mm length Maximum current: 13A Weight: 50.2 grams / 1.77 oz Comes with stick mount plastic frame Firewall mount capable Comes with two prop nuts and one washer 3mm shaft diameter 10mm x 10mm stick mount Kv: 1750 9 Stator Poles, 12 Magnets" So it's OK for a 3S LiPo, which will give about 19.400rpm OFF LOAD. Max current 13A ON LOAD. No way of finding the other little one without at least a hint🤔 Looks like an Outrunner plane motor as well. Suck it and see! Probably similar specs to the Tower motor. The two brushed ESCs should be good for your Taycols as none of them should take much more than 10A or so. Use 15A fuses, as I have already fitted to your converter boards.😉 Bon chance mon ami, Cheers, Doug 😎 Re GWS; https://www.google.com/search?q=GWS+models&client=firefox-b&... Pic is a typical GWS small plane, called 'Slow Stick'. If I had one I would name it 'Spindle-shanks' 😁

Outrunner Skimmer by Mzee Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 15 days ago
Q: What does one do when one reaches the age when hand/eye coordination falters and advancing macular degeneration results in your flying models, overloaded with tape BandAids and superglue, making unexpected 'arrivals'? A: Retrieve the 'innards' of the 'foamie', add a few sheets of balsa and build a maxi-size Skimmer a la Glynn Guest but x 1.4 to take the brushless outrunner rom the late 'Easy Star'! Help please ..... I only have a MP4 video clip of 170 Mb - how do I load that?

Spektrum, new, useless... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
Read further down and he clarifies that. Apart from that you can regard all brushed motors for models as 'In-runners' if you will! BTW: your last video was interesting, as far as it goes, for those into breaking the model boat speed record or competitive racing. For me the the boats themselves are totally boring, but that's just me 😉 I suspect that the majority of us here are more interested in scale modelling with a run time of more than 5 minutes. I believe Martin's planes are relatively small so I'm not sure if a small prop will be be a limiting factor. Choice will likely finally depend on the space available in the fuselage! Like I said 'Each to his own' 👍 Anyway, I'm convinced; leave the In-runners to the car racing boys😉 I only have outrunners anyway, even my Catalina arrived with two outrunners!! Mus check the 'Flying Wing' again😲 Thanks for the heads up! 'Tempus fugit' and progress too! Cheers, Doug 😎

Spektrum, new, useless... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
Don't see where it says that but WTH! Each to his own! 😉 http://rcadvisor.com/inrunner-vs- style='background-color:yellow;'>outrunner-motors I 'sit' corrected 🤐 Cheers, Doug 😎

Spektrum, new, useless... by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
sorry but most flying crash test models use outrunners. The lack of torque of an inrunner means you have to use a very small diameter prop ( I am generalising ) so unless your going for an all out speed model use an outrunner. http://lmmac.net/i-c-to-electric-conversion-table/ As you can see an outrunner is shown as the representative motor. https://www.cmfhobbies.com/IC-Engine-to-Electric-motor-conve... Again generally out runners.

Spektrum, new, useless... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
Apropos 'Hairyplanes' Use an In Runner if you go brushless for a plane. Generally smaller and lighter than outrunners, easier to mount, and you don't need the high torque of outrunners like we do to get a heavy boat moving in the wet stuff 👍 I have a styrene 'Flying Wing/Boat' in the cellar I haven't had the guts to try out yet! 😲 Wasn't rocket science to fix your TX, fault jumped out and bit me when I opened the case! Main thing; it won't now be wasted. 😎

Longer run time by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Your question does not have simple answers have you used a watt meter to see the current your motor is drawing at full throttle? With any installation its a good idea to do that test since its a good way to match motor and prop. LiPo batteries have a better current delivery than lead acid BUT you do need to be careful about end voltages so as not to damage the battery. Many ESC have a voltage cut off built in to protect LiPo batteries it may be your hitting that limit with your lead acid battery. The simplest solution to your problem is to look at the Amp/hour rating of your existing battery and get something with a higher rating. Going LiPo can give a much higher rating with a LOT less weight. The downside being the need for a special charger and the need to be careful about storage and end point voltages. As to putting 2 batteries in series to get a higher voltage yes you can BUT increasing the voltage to a brushless motor requires you match the prop to the new voltage running on the existing prop will probably cook the motor. How hot is your brushless running now? Outrunners generally can swing a bigger prop than inrunners.

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Right, gentlemen who know fings, here are shots of the wires I have. OK, I must have put the banana plugged wires in a box marked R/C Gear, I'm assuming, but the charger's wires mainly have brick red flat contact -containing plugs. However, none of my battery packs have those, they have the white things with two small round pins in 'em, one socket square, one round. The newest pack for binding duties has a little black jobby that fits the Rxs. Pictures included of all relevance. I tried to charge an old(ish) lead acid after making up a lead, but the charger put up a "Connection Break" legend on its screen. I assume that means, That one's f****d, mate. Fair enough, I thought it might be. But i still haven't worked out a lead to charge those green wrapped old NiMhs. I HAVE charged them before, because I have had two attempts at flying the aircraft. It went round in circles and then took a slate off my daughter's roof, proving that aircraft models really DO need insurance! Anyway, enclosed are three pics. The shot of a Lipo is to show that I do have such things, but that dates way back and although not damaged or bulged hasn't been charged while I've had it. It was sent to me with 2 small outrunner brushless jobbies and a couple of brushed ESCs as a thankyou for sending plywood to a part of Britain that the PO won't go to with biggish parcels. Finally....I have today received my FlySky RC set and guess what? It all works, perfectly, out of the box. It's PRE-BOUND! Whoopee do! It musdt be an upgrade as it came with a small Li-Po battery pack for the Tx. and a charge lead from USB to Tx. body. That's all great, but how do I know how long to charge it for? It currently has what looks like a full charge on it, judging by the brightness of the LEDs. Getting used to a passable impression of my son's old Subaru front wheel and tyre (complete with vented disc and caliper behind!) will take a while. I am guessing that pushing the throttle trigger forward is like a brake on a car. I assume on a boat it would be reverse? The instructions are not in any way exhaustive! But hey...on a tatty old Futaba servo it all worked a treat. Here's the pics of wires. Cheers, Martin

Zing Ray by Grumpy1949 Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Ok boys has anyone built this great mans hydroplane and either re engined or insralled a brushless outrunner. Bearing in mind that i am building this boat to operate at correct scale speed not bat out of hell speed. Correct acceleration and speed always enables the model to perform correctly during turns etc, anyhow. The only modification other than the powerplant is using a flex drive.

David Metcalfs Waveney - "The Scout" by Flack Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
For sale is my 1/12th scale model of the Waveney Lifeboat - "The Scout" Kit produced by David Metcalf. Built to a good standard with an array of working features: Working radar controlled through a voltage reducer Navigation lights, mast lights, front and rear searchlights, flashing blue light and well lights all controlled by an Action Electronics P62 quad switcher. The flashing effect of the blue light is controlled by an Action ElectronicsP73 multi flasher. Powered by two Turnigy 3542/5 1250kv brushless outrunners controlled by two Fusion Hawk 60amp electronic speeed controllers. Fitted with Raboesch propshafts and 3 bladed brass left and right handed propellors. Batteries and radios are not included in the sale. The model is available for pick up only with cash on collection from Stafford ST16 which is approximately 1/2 mile from Junction 14 of the M6 motorway. Price £700 ovno

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Rowen, I have had water cooling on all my patrol boats running at 12Volts, whether brushed or now brushless. For the brushed motors I have used aluminium tube coils with water pickups between the propellers and rudders. I did try water jackets a couple of times but found too much friction loss and therefore lack of flow. For the newer brushless outrunners I use a brass tube soldered to a brass plate across the front of the motor fitted between it and motor mounting bracket. I agree with Doug with regards to the disconnection of the red wires on the ESC's. This is now common practice, especially if you have an external receiver battery.

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat by MouldBuilder Commander   Posted: 5 months ago
Hello Canabus. Please can I take you up on the pdf files of the plans for my boat. I have an A0 printer so should be able to print them full size. I have looked all over for the originals without success. I am learning a lot as I go and wonder, looking back, if I have made a mistake. I bought the 3648 1450kv motor, yes, the beast. Just cannot help myself!!😁 Now that I understsnd these motors a lot more, I realise that it is an outrunner. Do you think I need water cooling and if yes, how is this done when the main outer can is rotating.😊🤔 Thanks.

Huntsman 31 motor &prop advice please by ChrisF Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi - I've got one of those and once I've progressed with some of my other builds I'm planning on replacing the old MFA 850 with a brushless. Being quite a heavy beast and wanting decent speed but not manic I'm looking at one of the Overlander 50 dia. brushless outrunners which will provide the torque required and use a 45 or 50mm 3 blade prop. Definitely LiPos for me. The 7.3v lead acid was fine in the boat weightwise on the water but too heavy and unwieldy for moving around and launching and with LiPos you can easily up the volts without much increase in weight. Chris

Too Powerful Brushless ? by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
I think you might need pointing in a direction, so I had a quick look on Hobbyking, and this motor is the sort of thing you can use, although this particular one would need you to swop the shaft around, this is just a guide, other s will no doubt add comment, its the right size, 5mm shaft, right kv and watts. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-g15-brushless- style='background-color:yellow;'>outrunner-810kv.html brushless esc https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbyking-90a-boat-esc-4a-sbec.h... you don't need the high amp capability, but its reversing, programmable, water cooled, and has an sbec, so the main battery power this 5 mm shaft, move your motor to the centre section meaning weight distribution is more central, and you can now use a shorter shaft, and get a couple off plastic "x" props, I would say 40 to 45mm will be the one. This will give a good speed, and you can power on 3 cells or 4 cells lipo, get higher c rating (40c or more) and higher mah so you have fuel in the tank available https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-battery-3000mah-4s-40c-l... This is just a guide, a starting point, as I feel you are unsure where to start, others with more knowledge will come in regarding this, having experience with lipo, brushless, 3 foot ply boats, and esc's, depending on budget, this would be the sort of thing I would be getting.