All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.
Many thanks for your kind support.
Model Boats Website Team
January 2019: 13 people December 2018: 6 people November 2018: 11 people October 2018: 9 people September 2018: 13 people August 2018: 5 people July 2018: 8 people June 2018: 8 people May 2018: 7 people April 2018: 20 people
As this model will be Electric a mock boiler will be put in place for aesthetics as it can be seen clearly if you look directly front on, on the real ship. The struts that come out of the hull are for a extra piece of deck that then connects to the paddle boxes.
while the paddles are on the drawing board being redrawn as I drew them with 8 spokes then realised there should only have been 7 thought i would have a stab at the paddle boxes ,bendy MDF and bendy ply yah beauty made it slightly easier to get the curves .long live the wood workshop scrap bin or as the good lady calls it the back bedroom .
Wife bought me a nice little book cheaper than the original cover price ,decided nice little paddle tug would be the next project enlarged the drawing in the book to desired size hull will be 30"(760mm)long keel and frames were laser cut will build the hull and plank then cut out for the paddle boxes ,don't know if this is the right way but it made sense to me
Hi again, BTW: aren't you missing a row of Carley floats (double stacked) on the side of the island? In this pic the paddles are shown simply lashed to the bottom webbing, not in boxes! Also looks like some sort of container float lashed to the rail of the deck above. Which also seems to be an open gantry style, simply to hold the floats, not continuous solid deck as you have now 🤔 Cheers Doug 😎
One of my Old Trafford paddle steamers enhanced by my mate Duncan Laurimer and sailing on the put up pond at Tilford Rural Life Centre yesterday. Good fun was had by all !! The boiler is tablet fired [3 halves ] and is half filled with 65ml of water. Engine is single oscillator with 16:1 spur gearbox. Les Breame
A beam was needed to support the pivot for the feathering mechanism. It was made to straddle the gap between the two sponson supports. There’s even less information available about this than there was for the feathering mechanism. My second attempt was the best solution and comprised the following parts. - Two 3/8” lengths of ¼” brass angle; with a clearance hole drilled in the top flange near one end, to suit the small sheet metal screws I had on hand - A length of 1/8” x ¼” rectangular brass tube to span the gap between the sponsons. - Approx 2” length of ¼” x 0.030” thick brass strip - A ½” length of ½” wide by 0.030”thick brass strip - A 7mm length of 3/16” brass tube as a bushing for the pivot. The rectangular tube was cut to length to fit across the sponson supports and inside the paddle boxes. The two pieces of ¼” angle were soldered at right angles under the ends of the 1/8” x ¼” tube. The paddle wheel and the beam were placed in position. The paddle wheel was set up while stationary to position the paddles so that one was on bottom dead centre and vertical. The axial position of the pivot point centre was marked on the beam, and the distance below the edge of the beam measured. The top edge of the ½” square strip was intended to be flush with the top of the beam, and a 3/16” hole was drilled through the former at the pivot point centre. This was soldered to the ¼” wide brass strip, and then the 3/16” tube soldered into the hole. The drill press was used to set it at right angles to the strip for soldering. The strip was joggled, to ensure the rotating paddles cleared the support beam, and with the 3/16” tube on the side nearest the hull. The brass strip was clamped to the support beam, with the complete assembly in place, and the pivot position adjusted to give the optimum motion of the mechanism. The brass strip was soldered to the support beam, and then removed and painted.
Hi, I recomend repeatedly to put your question to paddleducks.There you could certainly find modelers, who have experience with models paddlesteamers and can help with your problem. My model Lulonga has two Independently driven wheel, each has Its own ESC. Driving Is a double ... classic rudder control but especially ESC ..drive back and forth Is controlled via Throttle position on transmitter, using a Y cable. This allows the trimmer to adjust the speed .. optimally 90-150 rpm. Adjusting the speed of motors to the same value terms set by a trimmer on the transmitter. Own control direction Is a mix throttle with "ailerons" channel (1 and 3). This allows you to change the speed of each wheel Independently on Throttle position and thereby control the direction of navigation. . It Is even possible to change the sense of rotation, so that the wheel rotates against each other. This ship turns almost on the spot. A wheel diameter of my Lulonga Is 150 mm. A similar problem like yours, I did not met personally. next ..and perhaps your main problem may be that you can not mechanically practically ensuring that each wheel had the same number of turns .. Each motor has the same Input voltage slightly different speeds .. and without trim It Is Impossible to adjust. Additionally .. the question Is the size of the model. As regard to speed of paddle wheels (rpm) I think It Is practically negligible, If any blade touches the water before the blade wheel on the opposite side of the model.... maybe you need a proper trim then. Paddle wheel drive model has Its own specific problems. The main problem Is, that the model has a closed paddlebox . It happens that the water, Instead of being driven backward, Is suctioned Into paddlebox ,rotates similarly as In the pump , and model practically do not move. Help .. proper area of holes In the paddlebox side panels (at least). Lulonga has louvers fixed at the back of paddlebox . My first paddleboat was australian type steamer Ned Kelly(live steam propulsion 115 cm long hull, hull breadth about 20 cm without paddleboxes). Her superstructure was too high and and a relatively small breadth of the hull caused great Instability while sailing - the breadth recommended at least 25 cm. When I removed the superstructure, Improved stability, then model sailed with straight keel very exemplary. had the wheel of simple construction made of plywood, very effective .. though not as nice as yours at your model. I have model ,at present , quarterwheeler Lulonga(see gallery, the long article about model building you can find at Paddleducks) . She has also the paddlewheels of my homemade construction, nevertheless very heavy. Her stern sits very deep In the water The model Is about 75 cm long, but due to the structure and shape of the hull would be good If and Its length was at least 85 cm. I have a problem lengthwise balancing model. Tom
Bought this part built with prop propulsion . but Im converting It to paddle power. im using a 600 motor with a 50/1 gearbox to power It , but I think I will have to change the setup as the noise Is too loud ,even though It will Eventually It will have a 'Dixi' sound system Installed .
Max, one advantage of glueing the boxes In place Is being able to make the handrails, which run down the boxes and onto the sponsons, as one piece and secure them. Scott, mostly scratch; apart from the Items noted below, everything will be scratchbuilt, I.e, decks, sponsons, superstructure. It's 48" long. Roy
The build seems to be going well, very neat, glad you decided to enter the build blogs. I would advise making the paddle boxes up In one piece and making removable. You never know when you make want to get to the paddles. Empress Queen was an example. Good Luck Max.(4clubs)