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While waiting for paint and lacquer to dry I thought I'd try making a flagstaff to go at the stern to take an RAF ensign that I'd like to fit. I used a short length of 5mm brass tube set into a circular flange that I shaped from some brass sheet. The hole in the flange was filed out to take the 5mm tube at an angle and was soft soldered into place, a 2mm nut was then press fitted into the base of the tube and secured with a drop of superglue. The pole we made from some 2mm brass rod tapped with a 2mm thread on one end. A short length of 4mm rod was bored out with a 2mm hole and was soft soldered close to the end to fit snugly into the 5mm base tube to act as a spacer, and another short piece of brass hand turned to make a knob at the upper end. During initial construction I had set a wood block below the deck at this point to provide a support for a flagstaff (always thinking ahead 😉) and this was drilled out at an angle for the 5mm base which was epoxied in place ensuring that base was seated correctly and the flagstaff was vertically aligned. The length of the flagstaff is about 11cm above the deck and is removable for transportation. It turned out really well and I will keep the brass finish but give it a coat of clear lacquer to prevent it tarnishing. I will order the two flags (flagstaff and mast) from Mike Alsop flags & ensigns as soon as I have worked out the correct sizes for 1:12 scale.
Hi Paul. It looks like our paint colours are very similar so the BS colour mix is consistent which is good to know. My 94 is coming along slowly as I have been taking a lot of time getting the paint finishes right and dried and hardened but that has also meant that I could spend time between paint coats to do some detail work as you will see soon. Side by side yours would win the beauty contest and undoubtedly a race too 😎
Hey Rob, I'm glad you mentioned the greenish hue, I have the same, and have always pondered over if it was correct. When I painted my 3 footer, in the BS 631 It had the green look, so when I did the 4 footer I used a different paint supplier, and it was the same. I wonder if over time the definition of the colour has changed? Coming along nice, its very time consuming isn't it! As you have 94, and I have 93, same boats but subtle differences as they were in real life, it would be very nice to get them together some day👍
Although the colour of the grey primer and that of the textured finish look quite good together I am committed to use the custom colour paint that I had mixed for the deck finish. The masking process took a while to do thoroughly as I didn’t want any overspray problems at this late stage but once I was satisfied I applied the first light coat of the ‘BS631 RAF Light Grey’ finishing coat. After a 20 minutes or so the second light coat was applied and then left overnight to harden, two coats on the deck is sufficient as I don’t want to fill the texture finish and ruin the effect. The deck was then masked to leave the cabin sides and superstructure exposed so that I could put a third and fourth coat of the colour on those areas. The resulting gloss finish looks quite good and will be a good contrast to the textured decks that will be finished in matt lacquer. The masking on the decks was then removed and the cabins and superstructure masked up to just expose the decks to receive two light coats of the Halfords matt lacquer. Everything was left for a few days to harden before all the masking was removed to reveal the final result of the painting process. The overall result is very pleasing and was well worth all the time and materials used to achieve it. The custom colour has a slightly 'greenish' hue in contrast to the grey primer that I have been looking at up until now and took a while to get accustomed to but I can say that now really like the colour scheme and that it is reasonably true to the prototype 😁
Hi chugalone 100 Welcome to the site. You can fibreglass with different types of resin and cloth. If you are making and casting a fibreglass hull use fibreglass matting but to cover a hull lightweight fibreglass cloth is best. This is the type shown in the suggested video. Resin can be epoxy or polyester based but the latter is generally cheaper and in my opinion is easier to use and doesn't require thinning with alcohol. It is sold as layup resin and is supplied with hardener. Do follow the instructions re quantity of each part and mix thoroughly. If you are using epoxy Iso Propyl Alcohol is the type to use and is clear. The video shows using a brush to apply the resin and whilst this is OK it will give a very thick and heavy coating. I use the brush to apply and then a credit card sized piece of plasticard to spread the resin over and into the surface of the cloth resulting in an almost opaque finish with the weave showing through. You do need to have a good surface to work with as any imperfections will show when the resin hardens. Once dry give a light sanding all over to remove any imperfections and fill any holes with car body filler and sand smooth. I then apply a very thin top coat of the resin using a brush. When dry use wet and dry to sand and if necessary apply further thin coats until you have the finish you require. I have a local supplier and if you visit the site http://www.resin-supplies.co.u k/product.htm all the resins/cloths etc are listed. Using Google should bring up a local supplier. you do need to follow the safety instructions to protect yourself and wear appropriate protection for your hands, eyes and breathing, it is also best to apply in a well ventilated area and not on a cold day. The end result will be well worth the effort to keep your tug waterproof. You could also paint the resin over thye inside of the hull to protect the wood from any water that doeos find its way inside. Dave
I have been looking for some thin flat timber for another project for some time and ended up on Ebay. Then another thought have a look down the local tip seems I spend A lot of time there but I don.t I Just look about when throwing out something that I can Not give away on freecycle. Anyway looking through the paints again Yep bought 4 small tins Assorted colours. £1 and tripped over a window blind that was left leaning against the wall. Picked it up and realized it was a wooden blind. And Guess what it was wood constructed with thin strips and NOT plywood.A little under 3 mm thick and 25mm wide. I guess ripped down into very small strips it would be Ideal for those that make wooden boats or even strip wood hulls. So yet another £1 spent. and stored away for later use. I guess buying something like this from elsewhere could cost a small fortune. I am thinking that your local freecycle website may also be a place to look..For free wooden blinds.
A little bit more completed. Just finished the hatched area where I intend to put the two large cranes. The black lines are wider than I would have liked but It was All I could find. So started with a marked out area using household sellotape. Lightly stuck down on the inside edge. Then painted the inside of the sellotaped area with yellow paint Again Acquired from our local recycling Tip. Removed the tape and Allowed the yellow paint to dry. Then with a strait flat stick and a permanent marker set to lining out the black part of the lines. With a thinner black marker the lines could have been thinner. But It was All I had. Also started to put some doors and a few other fittings on now..
Well I have now painted the top. And stuck in all the windows. For the glass I used some old clear plastic fruit containers. But afterwards noticed I could have had windows with a slight green tint by using some old 7 up lemon aid bottles. Still maybe next time. In the meanwhile again I have been making and painting the little bits that will be stuck on at a later date.
Now that the self-adhesive vinyl lettering and hull markings are now applied and correctly positioned…😉 I can now spray the lacquer finish on the hull. The gloss black areas will have a number of coats of Halfords clear gloss lacquer and the red ‘anti-fouling’ areas finished in Halfords clear satin lacquer. I started with the gloss lacquer first, so the all the deck area and the red ‘anti-fouling’ areas were masked. As I wanted the white waterline to be sealed with the gloss finish I masked below the line. After a thorough wipe over with some panel wipe the first coat of gloss was sprayed followed by a further two coats at 30 minute intervals. Fortunately it all went on without any runs or blemishes so I left it for a week to thoroughly harden after removing the masking. The black area was then masked from the bottom of the waterline, the area cleaned with panel wipe and sprayed with three coats of Halfords clear satin lacquer. With all the masking removed the boat was them put aside and left for a week for everything to dry thoroughly and then I polished the black area with some ‘T-cut’ polish to remove any surface blemishes and bring it to a full shine. All the hull marking and lettering are now firmly fixed and sealed and I’m very pleased with the final results. The next job will be to spray the deck and superstructure with the BS631 RAF Light Grey and then the majority of the paint process will be complete 😁
Hi Ed I would probably use the back edge of a small chisel to gently scrape the paint from the plastic. To aid adhesion any shinny surfaces need to be gently scoured to allow the glue to penetrate the plastic. as you have some scrap you can see if MEK dissolves the plastic, if it doesn't it wont work. If it's PVC then you will need a PVC type glue as methyl ethly ketone is for plasticard type. PVC is usually used for guttering etc, I would be surprised if it was used for your model but it would explain the poor joints. As you can't get inside you will need to add a cover all round the boat over the join. You can get angled plasticard which would certainly help strengthen the join especially as it is carrying the 21lbs weight. The added benefit would be a neat edge all round. You can shape plasticard by heating in warm water and bending to shape. If you tape in place it will retain the shape when it has cooled. You might also be OK using your Z -poxy providing you roughen the angle and hull where they join. Dave
The outer hull area in all plastic. I can't add a fillet to her stern insides there's no access. Strange design of the transom! Her outer hull is made up of 1/8 plastic! I think it's PVC! What would you recommend I use to take the paint off without damaging the plastic? looks as if a trip to the local hobbyshop is in order. I need to see if I can find some "MEK's". I think in the case of San Pedro there's a lot of pressure from the weight she carries! 21lbs to be exact. Any recommendation would be greatly appreciated, on how to go about scraping the hulls seam without nicking the hull. Any idea's.....
Beat me to it, I have used WEP and scrap plastic, to strengthen all joints in a Plastic TID tug, Corvette and my latest build Vosper Gun boat.I used a small jam jar as issued with my toasted tea cake at Costa coffee, just cut up some scrap plastic into jar, pour in enough WEP to cover, seal jar with lid leave over night, then using a cheap brush paint inside and in your case outside joint, after cleaning surfaces first. My TID tug, has stood up to of many a knock, with no leaks so far, apart from when my Brother ran it down with his RC yacht and she turned turtle took on water and down she went , after a quick rescue and trip to park gents to use its hand drier, she was soon back sailing, joints still intact :-)
Almost certainly the culprit. Is this a plastic to plastic joint? Can you add a fillet to the inside of the hull to increase the joint area? If it is all plastic you could remove the paint up to the rubbing strake and add a thin 1mm sheet of plastic all round the hull to seal the gaps. Plenty of MEK solvent will make a strong and watertight joint. I would also scrape off the paint all round the seam and fill with MEK and some dissolved scrap plastic to fill and seal the gap. Dave