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>> Home > Tags > paint

paint
aluminium paint
paints
spray paint
paint
Net bins by GrahamP74 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
The boat is nearly complete now, the final part is to fill the deck with fill nets! I have found that the Heinz snap pots for baked beans are the perfect size! Top removed, sprayed and weathered and then a body buff has been cut up and stuck inside along with some twine. I’ve then painted the net to make it look dirty and some varnish to give it a wet look.. 2 down 1 more full one required and then a stack of 3 empties... but first dinner, and yes, it’s beans on toast for me!!!

Painting by MouldBuilder Admiral   Posted: 2 days ago
Well it is nearly Christmas again and time to go to my testing river in Hungary. This boat will not be ready but I hope to complete the Police Launch this trip. I have started the painting process on the Pilot Boat. Very early on I had a dilemma. When is the correct time to paint. As I generally use rattle cans and an airbrush, I think it best to paint prior to major assembly. I am still not sure if this is the correct approach but I am concerned with masking an assembled unit. I hope that the glue does not ruin the paint finish when I put it together. It is a bit difficult spray painting this time of the year due to the fumes. I spray in the garage with the door open but I am always concerned about air temperature. The finish looks good so perhaps this is not of great concern yet.🤓 I will now leave the hull to dry prior to applying the lacquer. I have completed the insides of the bridge and rear room and will start to assemble this part next prior to masking and painting the outside walls. I have bought a roll of special low tack clear film to protect the windows and frames. I hope this works. I have used the same film to cover the instrument panel which so far seems to be staying on well. I think that these models by AeroNaut are really well designed. It still amazes me that the model looks so natural even though it is made generally from flat thin sheets.😉 I will attach the deck next and then start on the main structures. Happy Christmas to all.

KD Perkasa 1/24 by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
http://www.gaugemaster.com/revell/Revell_Paint_Conversion_Ch...

KD Perkasa 1/24 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi JC, Maybe this paint Match chart can help! Cheers, Doug 😎

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Back to the build. Next milestone, to complete the superstructure and engine covers. The superstructure is essentially a cowl that supports the open bridge and serves as the air intake for the gas turbines. The engine covers fit into the rear of it. The superstructure is full of curves and will be interesting to make. Still trying to save weight, decided to make it out of glassfibre. Rather than first make a plug then a female mould and finally the cowl, wanted to try the technique of making a plug out of styrene foam sheet, then covering it in a glass fibre matt. Once the glass fibre is set, the foam is dissolved out using a solvent and the cowl remains – Inshallah! To ensure the foam did not react to the glass fibre resin, painted the finished cowl with enamel paint before sticking the matt down. See pictures. What a mess! The resin had crept under the paint and into the foam dissolving it. When the resin dried the plug had shrunk slightly and had the surface finish of a quarry. First thought was to hurl it and start again, this time in wood. On second thoughts, wondered if the plug could still be used. Decided to build it up with wood filler and from it make a female mould, as originally intended. The cowl would then be made from the mould. Built the damaged plug up and sanded it smooth. As the plug would be covered in fibreglass, the surface finish was not critical. Brushed a coat of fibreglass on the plug and, after drying filled any defects with glaze putty and sanded smooth. Once the finish and dimensions were satisfactory, applied a thicker coat of glass fibre to the plug. This was again smoothed down, waxed with carnauba polish and then covered in mould release. From it the cowl was made. Picture shows plug, mould and cowl placed side by each. The cowl requires reinforcement; the fittings and various mountings then adding before installing. A trial installation showed that it fitted properly the deck and was accurate. A lesson for the next time is to make the plug and mould much deeper than the finished item. That will allow any rough edges, on either the mould or the component, to be trimmed off leaving a smooth fibreglass edge.

aeronaut classic by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi Simon, I used the lacquer on the blue and white as well. It 'flattened' the paint and made it real hard and smooth 😊 The whole time consuming but satisfying process is described in incredibly boring 😉 detail in my blog- 'Jessica - Sea Scout restoration' (or was it renovation ??😲 Go easy with the lacquer on top of the varnish, not too heavy in one coat, or it may cause hairline surface cracks as it dries due to surface tension. 😡 Motor is a Propdrive 2832, 1000kV driving a 35mm 3 blade brass prop from Raboesch. Running on a 3S Lipo using a Quicrun 30A ESC and Turnigy iA6 RX. Pic attached of 'Engine Room'. Link attached to videos of the sea trials in May this year, Ostpark Lake and Biergarten, Munich. https://youtu.be/b0BWJ3duzDw https://youtu.be/zPgYicA0yGw She's 24" LoA with an all up weight of about 1.5kg. BTW: the lacquer is also supposed to be UV resistant! 😉 All the best, Doug 😎 PS Here the link to my Sea Scout Build Blog https://model-boats.com/builds/view/28209

HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Brilliant job Steve, 👍👍👍 Great paint job. All you need now are a few crew! 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

Fairmount Alpine by jugge Lieutenant   Posted: 12 days ago
A Little bit forward , the hull is ready for paint and im going to mount propshaft and motors , im going to work with the superstrukture so it will be ready

Elizabeth Cabin/superstructure by muddy Admiral   Posted: 14 days ago
The cabin has now been finished off with a well deck, the well deck is made of balsa mostly, and the floor is oly, the well deck floor is lined as planks ( urghh ), firstly scored with a blunt Stanley type knife blade the the plank lines infilled with pencil, the floorboard nail marks are just scored with a sharp pin with a little cyno rubbed in the hole to colour the pin prick, decided to make this as an all in one removal unit, It still has to be glazed and fittings plus furniture, as in windscreen , door's consul etc: .. The deck and all other woodwork has been varnished and the cabin roof painted white, awaiting suitable weather to paint the hull, as this is done outdoors.. Muddy....

Taking shape! by GrahamP74 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Managed to fit the gantry and mast and made the sail. To get the right cloth I used and old pillowcase (well I think it was old) and painted it both sides with wood stain / varnish. Happy with the finish. As with all my models I always put a piece that my Dad made on the boat, this time it is the wooden pulley block.

'Maiami' ASR by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 18 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 35"/1000g 'Maiami' ASR Capable of 5mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 25mm) Direct Drive to a 380 (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through China (5Amps) ESC - Comments: Knocked this up in around 6 weeks ('free modelling',-no plans, just looking at a few photos) for my son but he wasn't interested (the dreaded Playstation) so I re assigned it to myself and put a few more bits on it. The whole boat is balsa and just enamel painted so it is quite light. Only single shaft and runs well, but thinking of making it a twin set-up with better motors and shafts. mostly gets used as a camera boat as it is very stable.

Fairacre by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 18 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 31"/1100g Fairacre Capable of 5mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 35mm) Direct Drive to a Graupner 400 monoperm (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through China (5Amps) ESC - Comments: Fairacre plan built (RCM I think, early 70s) Rescued from rubbish bin on farm, rebuilt hull and f/glassed. restored, varnished and re 'glazed' cabin and added grab rails, mast , lights, curtains (leftovers from a Graupner Commodore I built in the 70s) cleats and boarding platform. Restored the deck and varnished. Fitted new prop shaft and rudder and made name decals. cleaned and painted hull interior.

Sanding done by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi Steve, many real IMM rod antennas I worked with were not tapered. So any metal / plastic rod of suitable diameter painted white would do. The relatively short (1m) whips are not always tapered either. If you go piano wire & heatshrink you could put a nice sweep-back into it by lightly bending it back while shrinking. When cool it will hold the shape. Here's a link to the supplier we most often used for the professional 'stick' (we called 'em rod) VHF IMM antenna, with a drawing. http://www.aas.de/special-antennas/vhf-tx-rx-antennas/104-st... Memory playing tricks on me🤔it's actually about 141cm top to bottom. Cheers, Doug 😎 Here's a simple 35" stainless steel whip, also not tapered https://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Marine-Band-Antenna-35in-VHF-C...

Sanding done by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 20 days ago
Most of the sanding is now done and the not so easy task of getting the propshaft and tube out (M3 so not really man enough). Bought loads of bits including the grab rails I've fitted. Bollards, cleats, capstan, anchor, chain, instruments,nav lights etc all boxed up ready to fit after paint. Also the crew has arrived from China. But, I have failed to find a VHF 'White Stick' style antenna anywhere....anyone seen one in any of the catalogues? Steve

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 21 days ago
Rowen, here are a couple of things that may be of use to you (and others). The battery alarm will save you worrying about running out of steam as they can be set to beep at varying voltages to warn you of low battery, just put one on each batt balance lead and when one goes off (when an individual cell drops below the set voltage) it means start heading back. These can be picked up on Ebay for a few dollars. I use them on my planes as well and are audable from around 100m (these twin horns are the best) Secondly, re your ESC switches, these electronic switches (AliExpress) are great for this sort of thing (as long as you have enough aux switches on TX ) You can link them with a Y cable to work together or use them independantly for anything, (lights, pumps etc, - they can be operated by TX rotary switches as well) The ESC and 2000kv motor (HK) are the ones I am using in my ASR model and will work smoothly down to a crawl, the purple 1980 kv seems to have superseded these but I think they will be as good. The props are from Ali Express and are resin and available in L and R hand, are only a few bucks and perform perfectly while looking quite scale(ish). I painted them with an acrylic bronze which seems to have stayed on pretty well. Model weighs 2.8kg and will run at more than 10mph flat out with this set-up (using the 26mm L+R) props) which is silly speed and that's with 2x 2s 2200mah lipos (which will last till you get sick of it and still have 60% left) I was just looking at your Daman set-up and noticed the wiring method from the batts to the ESCs. You might want to make your batt to ESC connections direct to your ESCs (as per original ESC lead length)as your capacitors may get a thrashing (spikes) due to the extra length/ resistance you have there. There is a general rule that you don't lengthen the batt to ESC wiring without adding a 220mf capacitor of same voltage as the ESC for every 4"of extra wire length (ESC to motor - not so much). Might want to check this out in case you fry your ESCs You probably have thought of this but thought I'd mention it, 'just in case' Might help with your modulation as well. Have chucked in a vid of the HSL manouvering (first trials so wasn't perfect) and also the MTB (brushed) which I have just converted to a twin system (was twin but single Electronize unit) plus a sound unit. You may know that you can use as many RECs (bound to the same TX) for various purposes on the same boat (have run 2 boats together from the same TX) Might get you round the mixed brushless/ brushed problem with a bit of thought. Have you thought of changing your old HK silver 6DF TX to twin throttles, it's a piece of cake(as is the TGY 6x), just remove the aileron/rudder centering spring and make a friction plate as per throttle stick, and use the elevator channel as your other throttle. Set your ESCs and you can then use a twin system giving you perfect control. Saves a lot of hassle.