Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Guest
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
   
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play


Help Support This Website
£
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.



£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team


Donation History
May 2017: 8 people
April 2017: 23 people
March 2017: 9 people
February 2017: 12 people
January 2017: 37 people
December 2016: 2 people
November 2016: 2 people
October 2016: 7 people


Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy
Advertising
Contact


Model Boats Website
Active Users (12)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > paint

paint
aluminium paint
paints
spray paint
paint
Speranza 03 by muddy Commander   Posted: 3 hours ago
Started on the Stringers and Chines, some of the stringers are Spruce, 1/4" x 1/4" , one cracked on the bow curvature, not immediately it was glued and pinned, but about an hour after, should have laminated these spruce stringers as in 1/8" x 1/4" times 2. Another one has cracked since but they are repairable.. Mixed up a weak solution of PVA and water and painted the rest, hoping this will soften them up and be more pliable. Started on the transom, this is angled with a sharp centre line, but there was a lot of off cuts of Obechie lying around, so it was planked with a curve, first Modelers License applied. A few more dry fits and the bow and transom were assembled up, using stringers as alignment tools, anything will do in these instances even strips of ply. Some of the upper-works combing has been fitted around the transom area. Muddy....

Speranza 02 by muddy Commander   Posted: 8 hours ago
... 😊 lol .. No pressure then ! .. lol 😊 I,m afraid this may not be a quick build, because it is an "infill" build.. Always try to have two models on the go, as sometimes waiting for glue or worse still, the paint to dry that's a lot of wood cutting time wasted.. Regards Muddy

The lighting circuits. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 hours ago
I had previously made and tested the lighting pcb but I subsequently decided to modify it to take some 2 pin Molex connectors, they have the same hole spacing as the Veroboard PCB and are polarised and will make the final wiring a little easier and a lot neater too 👍 All the lighting wires were formed into colour coded twisted pairs and tacked in place within the wheelhouse with some epoxy and then overpainted black where they were conspicuous. The PCB is fixed to the bulkhead on PCB spacers and all the wiring retained by a cable tie on a self-adhesive base. The two Turnigy R/C controlled switches were mounted on a plasticard plate with double sided foam tape and then this plate secured to the bulkhead with a self tapping screw. The battery connections and common negative connection to the R/C receiver battery are on Molex connectors as well. The battery was fitted with XT60 connectors and secured to the keel with cable ties through some screwed eyelets. The port, starboard, forward blue and mast ights are on one switched circuit and the searchlight on a separate switched circuit. The searchlight also rotates on it's own servo channel. The result is a nice tidy installation which can easily be removed for servicing and modification is required 😎

The window glazing & frames. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
A full set of laser cut perspex windows is supplied in the VMW kit along with corresponding frames for all and they are all a pretty good fit in the window apertures of the engine room, forward cabin and wheel house rear walls, only requiring a light easing with a file for a secure fit. I left the protective film on the screens whilst gluing them in place with a very small amount of canopy glue applied to the window edges with a dressmaking pin and pressed into place so that they were flush with the outside of the cabin walls. The wheelhouse windows were a bit trickier as they are glued to the inside face of the panels and I had to remove the protective film around the edges of the outer face of the windows by running a fine sharp blade around the window aperture with the perspex held in place by hand. Canopy glue was then used very sparingly on the face of the perspex and the windows clamped in place. The central screen of the wheelhouse has the Kent Clearview in it and this needed to be carefully centred before fixing in place. When all had dried and set the protective films was peeled off to reveal nice clear ‘panes’ without any unsightly glue smudges. The CNC cut window frames are made from a flexible plastic material with accurate and well defined edges. They were all given a light sanding with abrasive paper as a key for the paint and were then laid out on a large piece of card paying particular attention to getting them the correct side up, in particular the wheelhouse frames which are ‘handed’ for either port or starboard. They were all held to the board with small pads of double sided foam tape and sprayed with two coats of Halfords metallic silver paint followed by two light coats of Halfords gloss lacquer. After a couple of days to dry they were removed from the board and fixed in place with canopy glue applied with a pin as very small dots around the inside face, aligned with masking tape ‘guides’ and a straight edge and then held in place with small tabs of masking tape. The installation of the glazing in the wheelhouse was made a lot easier because I had previously cut away some of the bulkhead and rear wall to give better access to the wheelhouse interior for detailing. This is not mentioned in the building instructions but is well worth doing for all the above reasons 😁

3D printing by Midlife306 Commander   Posted: 1 day ago
Well, I'm knackered! I've been busy today building a 3D print workstation. Just need to sort out the plugs, lighting etc & paint the inside white & the jobs a good un 👍 Cheers Wayne

Tarpon by muddy Commander   Posted: 4 days ago
[Score: 8/10] Capable of 6mph and a runtime of 40mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 40mm) Direct Drive to a 777 (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Electronize ESC - Comments: Tarpon, Built from Model Boat Plans, Plywood Keel with Obechie planks 6 x 3 mm, upperworks/cabin balsa frame and .8mm plywood sides. All decks are planked, approx 6mm x 3mm a white wood, with .5mm Mahogony "Cauking".. Open planks and wood were varnished , paint is Wilko Enamel spray Gloss with spray undercoat. Happy sailing. Muddy....

Jet Sprint by rolfman2000 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
Looking really good Rod. Can't wait to see the pieces together with some nice paint and graphics and a rubbing strip fitted. ... sorry, too soon, too soon 😉 Best wishes, Dave W 😀

Koh-i-Noor by ads90 Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
Purchased on well known auction site. Boat very dusty/dirty but sound. It is from a Robbe kit that was around about 10 years ago and has timber decking, built-in auxiliary motor, navigation lights, etc. A deep clean followed by a re-paint of the superstructure, rub the decking down and varnish, followed by a complete rub down and re-paint of the hull brought her back to a fine yacht. She is about 40 inches in length and sails beautifully and has great presence on the water.

Koh-i-Noor by ads90 Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
[Score: 9/10] 40"/4000g Koh-i-Noor Single Propellor (3 Blade 30mm) Geared to a Robbe (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Hitec Gold (10Amps) ESC - Comments: I bought this yacht via a well known auction website. It was owned by an old gent who had passed away and was covered in dust and the ABS white hull had yellowed with age. I cleaned the yacht up, rubbed the timber decks down and varnished them, re-painted the superstructure, rubbed down the hull and spayed the hull a grey/brown colour. It came complete with auxiliary motor, batteries, sail winch servo, ESC and navigation light switching unit. The yacht sails perfectly and looks great on the water. A real bargain buy.

Paint removal by NickW Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
Thanks onetenor

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi All, Lord Nelson varnish appears to be a Krick product from Germany! http://www.krickshop.de/Products/Paints-Accessories/Paints-for-Shipmodels/Lord-Nelson-Varnish.htm?shop=krick_e&a=catalog&p=435 produced for them by a Belgian company - http://www.ghiant.com/brands/modellers/lord-nelson/ Must also be available in UK? For example http://www.anticsonline.co.uk/1368_1_2970537.html There is also a spray can version- http://hobby.uk.com/matt-varnish-300ml-spray.html Happy varnishing 😉 Cheers Doug 😎

Paint removal by onetenor Commander   Posted: 7 days ago
If the deck is also GRP the best bet is to plank it with fine veneer strips then varnish that. If it needs filler between the planks use a black one. Carbon black or similar added to the filler .Brown would also look smart.Artists powder paint could also be used and be cleaner to handle.Lite filler from B&Q is very good .Light and easy sanding and I believe slightly flexible so should not crack out.

Paint removal by NickW Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
Thanks....I was hoping to sand the deck back to a state where I could varnish rather than paint....quite happy to re-paint the hull etc

Steering wheel by Midlife306 Commander   Posted: 7 days ago
First stage of painting, still need to do a black wash over the silver spokes & the outer hub. Cheers Wayne

Paint removal by onetenor Commander   Posted: 7 days ago
Sonar is right. Do not try to sand it ALL off as you risk damaging the gel coat of GRP Almost impossible to rectify .BE WARNED! John