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So I have been doing some paint priming and still messing about with the outboard.. It now has the rudder dry fitted and it will not be seen above the waterline.. Most of the shaping is done now And I have cut out for access hatches to both to fit and get to the servo. The hatches I have got are semi waterproof and come off of some wet wipes. Now all the shapes are about right I will just carry on with a little more. And start looking about for the foam for the sponsons and some paints. This I am sure is going to be very light so with the electrics as low in the hull as possible and the foam tubes I have no Idea how much little ballast I will get away with...
If it's old chances are it has oil based paints and will need lots of elbow grease, paint strippers and if it's anything like my Sea Queen some careful use of a hot air stripper to get the final residue out of the wood. I did start with Flash oven cleaner but changed to Nitromors and a scraper. It will be a ply hull and if it had an ic engine fitted you will need to strip out much of the inside to get rid of any diesel impregnated wood. I would also consider replacing the prop shaft and re-positioning to a less acute angle as you will not need the height in the boat that an ic required. IC used prop shafts often have little or no bearing left and can also be badly bent or twisted. Eze-Kote was very popular to protect the engine bay in a model plane and I still have a bottle bought some 20 years ago. It will protect the wood but I suspect you will need some form of tissue or cloth to make the hull waterproof. Others seem to prefer this to lay-up resin but I have not seen any pictures posted to prove its suitability. Good luck and perhaps you will consider a build blog so others can see how you progress? Dave
I have been looking for some thin flat timber for another project for some time and ended up on Ebay. Then another thought have a look down the local tip seems I spend A lot of time there but I don.t I Just look about when throwing out something that I can Not give away on freecycle. Anyway looking through the paints again Yep bought 4 small tins Assorted colours. £1 and tripped over a window blind that was left leaning against the wall. Picked it up and realized it was a wooden blind. And Guess what it was wood constructed with thin strips and NOT plywood.A little under 3 mm thick and 25mm wide. I guess ripped down into very small strips it would be Ideal for those that make wooden boats or even strip wood hulls. So yet another £1 spent. and stored away for later use. I guess buying something like this from elsewhere could cost a small fortune. I am thinking that your local freecycle website may also be a place to look..For free wooden blinds.
I built mine a couple of years ago. The wood is good quality and the metal fittings dont take much cleaning up. My fireboat runs of a brushless motor running of lipos batteries and performs well. I used auto paints regards the finish. and very pleased with it. It performs a good as my 49" Perkasa which runs of two brushless motors with the lipos wired in series.
For sale is my " Maggie M" kit which has to go to fund my next Lifeboat kit. The kit has everything to complete the model including a brushed MFA 919D series motor with a 2:5:1 gearbox, coupling and brass propeller but with the exception of paints, crew figures, model filler, adhesives, Tools and equipment. To complete a fully working radio controlled model a minimum 2 channel radio, speed controller and suitable battery would also be required. The kit has been started and the pictures show the work carried out. The size and weight of the packaged model will make insured post and packing expensive so local pick up is desired with payment in cash on collection, but I am prepared to arrange carriage at cost. The price is £200 ono plus p&p if required.
The paint brand I am using is widely used by UK modellers and I too would also avoid bargain basement paints for the reasons you describe. I still need to find somewhere for this boats maiden voyage, other than the test tank (bath!), but that's not going to be until the spring.
Glad your up to date with all the paints out there,some of them can really be JUNK!!!Keep going,lookin good!!!Now that Christmas is out of the way I can start cleaning this place up too get back to building.Take a look at our club web site sometime (PMPBA )we are running our boats in the Tualatin Commons,very nice pond to run them in.Happy Hollidays and enjoy your build
Excellent article 5 pages of very informative advice. I am putting the final touches to my 1:35 crash tender and like many have found my experience within the auto trade and paints of various types extreemly useful. Purchase all paint from my local automotive supplier, lots more for your £. This is the first boat I have built since 1957! when I used an old railway loco motor and a clunk click MacGregor RC unit. Those were the days before all the modern technology available to day. 👍 thank you
You can paint laquer over enamel ,but I would suggest going back to the base wood.Use a primer sealer to seal all the other paints out then go from there.I know what your talking about,happened to me till I figured out how to deal with it.Ive even gone as far as to brush on a couple layers of 30min epoxy deluted 50% with denatured alcohol to use as a sealer then start my primers to get smooth.Do Not Paint Enamel over Laquer,the enamel takes a long time to dry which attacks the under layment of any paint/primer.This is why the bubbles form under the paint you just put on
Hi MTB man . The ;lk] Hi MTB man.The point is that it is really shocking just how much people are giving away. Some peeps ( often widows and or children ) Just want to get rid asap while others want things to go to good homes so to speak.A lot of the time they have no idea of the true value of what is there. It happened to me as I said . 7, Planes and a complete ready to go fast pilot launch All were complete and fully fitted out. Tx s and Rxs good quality Futaba stuff .Plus tools chargers paints airbrush and much more.Another donor gave a Tiger Moth kit worth about £ 200.Another a model of a continental canal barge two brand new Graupner 600 motors and a matchstick tramcar kit plus a lod of bits and pieces. Another gave me a Clarke scroll saw. So it can hnappen all from a couple of free ads.I am not saying to take advantage of people and you can offer something you feel appropriate as I did. In my case she would not take anything for herself and said that she was" Only too glad that the stuff was going to someone who would appreciate it." So don't be shy ,or proud . Give it a try It costs nowt and could work out well/ BTW sometimes the widow or whatever " Just want's to get rid of all his bloody JUNK " P.S just let your conscience guide you John Regards John
[Score: 8/10] 13"/600g Helen Capable of 13mph and a runtime of 10mins Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type 20mm) Direct Drive to a Graupner or Johnson (2 Blade S Type) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 15Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Futaba I think (10Amps) ESC - Comments: Came as part of a donation of a ladies late husbands collection He did lovely work. Mainly planes. Lots of Radio gear and tools and paints too. I was embarrassed by how much there was she was giving away so I offered her all I had with me . she refused that £ 10 too until I said would she accept it as a donation. I assume her husband had an illness being researched .Lovely lady and daughter . I have another which I will write up/
Hi Ed Sorry, not sure what you mean about painting the inside? The instructions give some idea of when to paint and I will be following those to a great extent. Certainly before cabin construction is complete. I will be using different size brushes and Humbrol enamel paints of the appropriate colours and finish. Hope this helps. Steve
"Air Inhibition Air inhibits the curing process in some resins, with the result that the exposed resin surface tends to remain tacky. This effect is used deliberately in gel coats, but can be a problem with some resins additives which prevent air inhibition discolour the resin and therefore cannot be used for some applications, e.g. clear casting." "Gel Coat A thixotropic resin invariably used as the first coat (applied without glass reinforcement) on the mould surface. It forms the hard, smooth shiny surface of the finished article and is usually pigmented. It paints on easily but does not drain from vertical surfaces. When 2% wax solution is added it becomes a Flowcoat." https://www.ecfibreglasssuppli es.co.uk/t-GlassReinforcedPlas tics.aspx I found all this out the HARD way when I bought the wrong resin and ...................
HI Alan and Jarvo Thanks for that info. The deck will have to be sanded down and before a respray, a good base preparation will be required plus clear lacquer for a final finish. I guess that Halfords spray paints are the most readily available ones . The hull is painted in satin black and red below the waterline and neither the hull or the cabin tops are suffering from the problem. Many thanks Boaty