I was very pleased to see the texts re spraying, paints etc. I am fairly new to spraying my "Surfury" and it is taking some time. I certainly agree with all the statements on preparation, for me this divides into 2 categories. 1. Boat surface preparation. 2 Paint consistency/temperature/spraying. For 1 you cannot rush it, for as noted, gloss paint certainly shows up any imperfection so you must be dedicated to spend considerable time on this. But 2. Right or wrong, after sealing and undercoating (plus the rub down) I chose to use Humbrol enamels. There followed many weeks of spraying after getting the mix right, correcting my spraying technique, inevitable rub downs etc. I came to the conclusion that many thin coats were the norm and cleaning of the spray gun (Badger) after every use was mandatory! However, the best finish achieved was by spraying in a warm surrounding temperature. This was achieved in my garage with a small calor gas fire. I believe that this latter point is the most important of all. When the painting is complete I will post a few pictures. Thanks to everyone for their excellent, informative replies. Bill.
The Upol Barcote product recommended is intended for Industrial use mainly in car restoration. The spec sheet can be seen at http://www.u-pol.com/files/6689/up0720-SDS-EN. If you are intending to use this Full PPE equipment should be worn and only use in a well ventilated area. Personally I use paintstrippers, scapers and a hot air paint stripper to clean wooden hulls back to bare wood. This allows me to see any damage caused by fuels used with IC engines. I agree its messy, takes time and is best done outside, but you do end up with a solid hull with no hidden soft spots. I agree with Jarvo's use of Clear Cote either in gloss or semi matt finish. If the air temp is much below 20 deg most rattle cans will not give a good finish and runs will be difficult to avoid.
After modding my Sea Queen with the new prop shaft I decided to smarten it up as the previous spray job I did was not too good, well I have had terrible trouble with it, the first attempt saw the original paint raise as I sprayed it with a primer that was supposed to be safe with all paints, so I removed as much as i could using the heat gun and a scraper, after sanding down and filling, I started again, i had some small patches raise up where I could not get the original paint completely removed, but after letting it dry and some wet and dry I managed to get a good primer coat on it. I then decided to spray it all white, so as I have always had good results with halfords own brand I gave it some light coats of white gloss, I was unable to get a reasonable gloss finish and it also needed some more filling, funny how a gloss coat show up all the defects, well subsequent attempts at spraying were useless, run after run and a poor gloss finish. All I can think is that I could not have had the area blanketed off in the workshop warm enough and the thinners in the paint was not drying as it hit the boat and just ran. I am now half way into sanding it all back and have decided to hand paint, What is the best paint and method to getting a near spray paint finish by hand brushing?
I ordered a tinlet of Humbrol (other paints are available) and hey ho, an Amazon (other..etc) carton the size of a developing nation arrived along with enough brown paper packing to entirely encompass my woman's glutes ! WOTTA WASTE
Hi John, Lets take your questions one at a time. Surface prep. Close joints are always good but not essential, glueing plastic involves a form of welding, ie the surfaces melt together forming a filler as well as a glue. Plastic weld is a model railway product which is very good, it's a liquid applied with a brush and the pieces are held until the liquid evaporates. Prep all surfaces as there might be release agents and / or fingerprints on the surface, washing up liquid is great for this, also when ready for painting wash again and lightly scuff the surface with fine wet and dry paper, (600 grade). Epoxy. Is not a good glue for plastic hulls and superstructures as they flex and move, epoxy is brittle and will fail over time. Finish painting with a plastic primer, (Halfords) this gives a flexible basecote, then paint as desired, i use car type acrylic paints, if you want a colour not as a car, you can get paint made up to your spec. In short, Liquid poly glue, clean before the build and when ready for paint. Hope this helps Mark
Hi Mark, Deutsche Post is not the arbiter of carrier charges here! In my experience, either way between D and UK, DHL and DPD are the most reliable and quickest with International Tracked and Signed incl. insurance. Latest example was the PT Boat I bought from Basil's dad! All charges including insurance were 14.95 and it arrived in two days!! The value was well over 25 quid and the German customs didn't bat an eyelid. I've bought several items from Component shop and Micron Radio, each order over 25 quid, all came via DHL in a few days with never more than 10 quid P&P, and the German customs never interfered. Royal Mail and UPS are the most expensive, take much longer (ca 5 to 10 days) and are much more finicky about what they will transport. Worse; if they don't like something, e.g Lixx batteries or paints etc, they just destroy it and hard luck mate! 😡 Oh, and Fedex from the States seems to attract unwelcome and expensive attention from customs here 🤔 So if I see 'Origin USA' on FleaBay or Amazon I look elsewhere! (America First!!)? Moral: check which carrier the supplier uses or specify your preferred carrier where possible. Many suppliers offer a choice, found under 'Delivery Information' or similar on their website. Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Dave, Yep. I'm also sure they must have something similar. Re: Common FT Market; surely that only affects tax and duty? Mark is right about the commercial companies. Some firms seem to use fairly small, obscure ones with low volume! Some the most expensive - like UPS🤔 Also; many carriers appear to make surcharges on 'dangerous items' like paints, resins and such. Many refuse to carry them, e.g Royal mail, esp. across borders! That's why I had to find a German distributor of the Schneider / WEM ColourCoats paints. Snapped up the last 5 tins of MTB Green in Germany apparently 😉 cheers Doug 😎
Hi Scotty (How are the dilithium crystals doing? 😉) Was expecting one of the vintage boat / Fireboat modellers to jump in here! Since no one did here's my two-pennyworth. Basically I consider the actual paint as cosmetic and not primarily to seal out water. Unless you want to use 2 part epoxy paints, which are not so easy to handle🤔 I used it on my U26 sub and it was pain in the you-no-where. First I would use sanding sealer inside and out. Then EzeKote or ClearKote inside and out. Especially where you want to let the planking shine! 👍 From Deluxe Materials - available Down Under from - see pic. this toughens the hull and gives added protection against knocks and bangs. Many of us then paint the inside with Hammerite, colour and texture, hammer or smooth etc, personal choice. This looks neat and is easy to keep clean. Out side acrylic is the easiest and most pleasant to use; water based so the painting tools are easy to clean with warm water and no dangerous to health or inflammable solvents. Easy to airbrush too😉 When the colour coat is finished and good an' dry you can then apply an acrylic clear lacquer coat, matt, silk or gloss as you wish. Hope this helps, cheers Doug 😎
Hi Dave, Thanks for the advice (aimed more at the non-computer guys here I guess 😉), but I was programming computers back in the 8 bit paper tape days! Due to limited storage space (kbytes not Giga or Terrabytes!🤔) I quickly learned to use it sparingly and clear the junk out after every session! Nowadays it's sadly more of a security question. ALL my possible browsers are set to clear cache, cookies, searches, sites visited etc etc on closure. At the end of each session I also use CCleanerPro (formerly CrapCleaner!) to clear out all caches, MS usage logs, temporary thumbnails Temp files, and deleted files - Waste Basket and Uncle Tom Cobbley and all!. So there can not have been anything in the browser cache - especially on the very first attempt. I agree with your last comment - my interpretation is that when McAfee looked at the site it exhibited behaviour which is classed as Suspicious! I won't be trying it again. Cheers Doug 😎 PS: i suppose I could dig out the site report, but frankly it's not worth the bother, more interesting things to do! ColourCoats paints for the PT boat and T45 as well as LifeColor cammo colours for KM and RN WW2 arrived today. Only ordered 'em yesterday 😊😊
Hi all, on way back from hospital appointment I called into charity shop and spent 25p. On boxed unbuilt model of King George V. When I got home and checked it out, its all there and about 75 % painted. All paints also in the box with glue as well. It looks big enough to convert to a sailable model, has anyone done this model and do you have any tips or information that would help, I'm a plastic kit total beginer. Thanks Colin.
YooHoo! Found a 37mm kit at right scale, and ordered😉 Now, where can I get some miniature baked-bean tins for the depth charges? 🤔 Gisela's Doll's House perhaps 😉 Hi Boaty, Ta for the info, I'll watch the temperatures! Thinks, must get a temp sensor or two for the telemetry feedback! Oh Woe where does it all end??😲 I bought my PTB from 'DadofBasil' complete with two 20something brushless. I intend to run it on a 2S LiPo 4000mAh. Humbrol paints are as rare as rocking horse droppings out here, but I found a source of the original WEM ColourCoat US26 MTB Green😊 Also have a paler version, like in the photos above, from Italeri (arrived today) so can (hopefully) achieve suitable sun-fading / weathering effects. 'Standard' anti fouling (matt brick red!) for lower hull like you! I want to build as it was when she got crunched by Amagiri, as far as possible considering all the partly conflicting versions and reports! For instance; Still trying to decide whether to leave the mast off completely or just fold it down! Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Dave, I see that my reply crossed with your modification/ correction 😉 Doug 😎 PS Italeri light green paint arrived today and have just found a German stockist for the old WEM ColourCoat paints, so have ordered the actual MTB Green which is somewhat darker, as your tip said. Gives me the option of faded / cammo pattern finish! Now ALL I gotta do is find the 37mm field gun🤔
Great news regarding the insurance, so sorry you are in so much pain. Dont forget the hours of building time as well as kit, paints, adhesives etc, make them pay for their failure to maintain the tree Mark