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I ordered a tinlet of Humbrol (other paints are available) and hey ho, an Amazon (other..etc) carton the size of a developing nation arrived along with enough brown paper packing to entirely encompass my woman's glutes ! WOTTA WASTE
Hi John, Lets take your questions one at a time. Surface prep. Close joints are always good but not essential, glueing plastic involves a form of welding, ie the surfaces melt together forming a filler as well as a glue. Plastic weld is a model railway product which is very good, it's a liquid applied with a brush and the pieces are held until the liquid evaporates. Prep all surfaces as there might be release agents and / or fingerprints on the surface, washing up liquid is great for this, also when ready for painting wash again and lightly scuff the surface with fine wet and dry paper, (600 grade). Epoxy. Is not a good glue for plastic hulls and superstructures as they flex and move, epoxy is brittle and will fail over time. Finish painting with a plastic primer, (Halfords) this gives a flexible basecote, then paint as desired, i use car type acrylic paints, if you want a colour not as a car, you can get paint made up to your spec. In short, Liquid poly glue, clean before the build and when ready for paint. Hope this helps Mark
Hi Mark, Deutsche Post is not the arbiter of carrier charges here! In my experience, either way between D and UK, DHL and DPD are the most reliable and quickest with International Tracked and Signed incl. insurance. Latest example was the PT Boat I bought from Basil's dad! All charges including insurance were 14.95 and it arrived in two days!! The value was well over 25 quid and the German customs didn't bat an eyelid. I've bought several items from Component shop and Micron Radio, each order over 25 quid, all came via DHL in a few days with never more than 10 quid P&P, and the German customs never interfered. Royal Mail and UPS are the most expensive, take much longer (ca 5 to 10 days) and are much more finicky about what they will transport. Worse; if they don't like something, e.g Lixx batteries or paints etc, they just destroy it and hard luck mate! 😡 Oh, and Fedex from the States seems to attract unwelcome and expensive attention from customs here 🤔 So if I see 'Origin USA' on FleaBay or Amazon I look elsewhere! (America First!!)? Moral: check which carrier the supplier uses or specify your preferred carrier where possible. Many suppliers offer a choice, found under 'Delivery Information' or similar on their website. Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Dave, Yep. I'm also sure they must have something similar. Re: Common FT Market; surely that only affects tax and duty? Mark is right about the commercial companies. Some firms seem to use fairly small, obscure ones with low volume! Some the most expensive - like UPS🤔 Also; many carriers appear to make surcharges on 'dangerous items' like paints, resins and such. Many refuse to carry them, e.g Royal mail, esp. across borders! That's why I had to find a German distributor of the Schneider / WEM ColourCoats paints. Snapped up the last 5 tins of MTB Green in Germany apparently 😉 cheers Doug 😎
Hi Scotty (How are the dilithium crystals doing? 😉) Was expecting one of the vintage boat / Fireboat modellers to jump in here! Since no one did here's my two-pennyworth. Basically I consider the actual paint as cosmetic and not primarily to seal out water. Unless you want to use 2 part epoxy paints, which are not so easy to handle🤔 I used it on my U26 sub and it was pain in the you-no-where. First I would use sanding sealer inside and out. Then EzeKote or ClearKote inside and out. Especially where you want to let the planking shine! 👍 From Deluxe Materials - available Down Under from - see pic. this toughens the hull and gives added protection against knocks and bangs. Many of us then paint the inside with Hammerite, colour and texture, hammer or smooth etc, personal choice. This looks neat and is easy to keep clean. Out side acrylic is the easiest and most pleasant to use; water based so the painting tools are easy to clean with warm water and no dangerous to health or inflammable solvents. Easy to airbrush too😉 When the colour coat is finished and good an' dry you can then apply an acrylic clear lacquer coat, matt, silk or gloss as you wish. Hope this helps, cheers Doug 😎
Hi Dave, Thanks for the advice (aimed more at the non-computer guys here I guess 😉), but I was programming computers back in the 8 bit paper tape days! Due to limited storage space (kbytes not Giga or Terrabytes!🤔) I quickly learned to use it sparingly and clear the junk out after every session! Nowadays it's sadly more of a security question. ALL my possible browsers are set to clear cache, cookies, searches, sites visited etc etc on closure. At the end of each session I also use CCleanerPro (formerly CrapCleaner!) to clear out all caches, MS usage logs, temporary thumbnails Temp files, and deleted files - Waste Basket and Uncle Tom Cobbley and all!. So there can not have been anything in the browser cache - especially on the very first attempt. I agree with your last comment - my interpretation is that when McAfee looked at the site it exhibited behaviour which is classed as Suspicious! I won't be trying it again. Cheers Doug 😎 PS: i suppose I could dig out the site report, but frankly it's not worth the bother, more interesting things to do! ColourCoats paints for the PT boat and T45 as well as LifeColor cammo colours for KM and RN WW2 arrived today. Only ordered 'em yesterday 😊😊
Hi all, on way back from hospital appointment I called into charity shop and spent 25p. On boxed unbuilt model of King George V. When I got home and checked it out, its all there and about 75 % painted. All paints also in the box with glue as well. It looks big enough to convert to a sailable model, has anyone done this model and do you have any tips or information that would help, I'm a plastic kit total beginer. Thanks Colin.
YooHoo! Found a 37mm kit at right scale, and ordered😉 Now, where can I get some miniature baked-bean tins for the depth charges? 🤔 Gisela's Doll's House perhaps 😉 Hi Boaty, Ta for the info, I'll watch the temperatures! Thinks, must get a temp sensor or two for the telemetry feedback! Oh Woe where does it all end??😲 I bought my PTB from 'DadofBasil' complete with two 20something brushless. I intend to run it on a 2S LiPo 4000mAh. Humbrol paints are as rare as rocking horse droppings out here, but I found a source of the original WEM ColourCoat US26 MTB Green😊 Also have a paler version, like in the photos above, from Italeri (arrived today) so can (hopefully) achieve suitable sun-fading / weathering effects. 'Standard' anti fouling (matt brick red!) for lower hull like you! I want to build as it was when she got crunched by Amagiri, as far as possible considering all the partly conflicting versions and reports! For instance; Still trying to decide whether to leave the mast off completely or just fold it down! Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Dave, I see that my reply crossed with your modification/ correction 😉 Doug 😎 PS Italeri light green paint arrived today and have just found a German stockist for the old WEM ColourCoat paints, so have ordered the actual MTB Green which is somewhat darker, as your tip said. Gives me the option of faded / cammo pattern finish! Now ALL I gotta do is find the 37mm field gun🤔
Great news regarding the insurance, so sorry you are in so much pain. Dont forget the hours of building time as well as kit, paints, adhesives etc, make them pay for their failure to maintain the tree Mark
G'day Norm, Nope! Not at all! Corticene is a strange deck colour somewhere between a muddy brick red and tan! I needed it for my HMS Manxman Abdiel class fast mine-layer. Never seen it on a carrier!? 😲 See - https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/products/rn24-corticene they took over the White Ensign naval paints when WE sank / emigrated 🤔 Cheers Doug 😎 PS Being nuts is an essential pre-requisite to building model boats and ships 👍😉
Jerry Todd: Hi Jerry, yes, I have heard a lot of good comments about Rustoleum paints. I work for a Display Company and we have lots of lacquer and automotive paints, and I was thinking to use them, but you guys have the experience and your suggestions will help me decide. Thank you Julian 😎
I use basic enamel for plastics, fiberglass, metal, and wood. Typically Rustoleum, or a store brand like Ace Hardware, etc. If you're gonna clear-coat, check it on a test piece first. Rusoleum changed something a while back and their clear coat sometimes reacts with even their own paints.
The maritime museum's event, scheduled for October instead of May, was cancelled as a hurricane blew up the coast and pushed water up the bay flooding a lot of coastal bay towns like St Michaels. I couldn't make the next Port Expo in 2016, but I tried to be ready for the maritime museum in October. I started making the forward bulwarks. The real ship had sections that folded down on bronze hinges a few of which still exist as she still had her forward bulwarks when she came to Baltimore. They could also be removed. I mad all the section as a single piece and I don't intend to make them functional, just something to snag and need to be repaired. As mentioned, the original winch drums warped and I made new ones with styrene drums instead of wood. These vanished around the time I moved and haven't been found yet, so I got some sheet plastic to take the place of the CDs and made a new pair. I have to say, I'm not happy with these at all. I did add a small block of Delrin to each winch to brace the drums against the pull of the braces/springs. Constellation's board at her entry port were carved. I took a photo of an original at the ship and traced it in PaintShopPro. Scaled it to the model and printed it. I glued this to some bass wood. I have some mahogany I can slice some thing slabs off of, and I may try using a rotary tool to carve a set for real, but till then, these will do. I tried to make the tops'l yard parrels which are iron hoops lined with wood. There's a pin for the yard's yoke to ride on, and the hoop can be opened and hinged to be removed. I wanted all that in case I need to remove a yard at some point without pulling down the whole rig. I tried it with some sheet brass, and again, I wasn't too hgappy with the result. We'll come back to that. So, I fiddled around with cutting combs to make hatch gratings, and actually managed to get something done, which led to making the main hatch cover. I had cut a bit of plywood as a cover, just to keep dust from going below while I was working - I based my hatch cover on this piece, framed the bottom; installed ledged for it to sit on inside the hatch coaming, and made gratings and fake beams on top. It's a bit simplified buy what the ship actually had, but it gets the point across. A couple of smaller gratings also got installed giving the deck a more finished appearance. I wasn't thrilled at bumping the bottom of a pool again, but the maritime museum is on the Miles River. I needed to be able to launch and retrieve the model at a boat-ramp or shore, so I started designing a launch-cart....