All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.
Many thanks for your kind support.
Model Boats Website Team
March 2017: 7 people February 2017: 12 people January 2017: 37 people December 2016: 2 people November 2016: 2 people October 2016: 8 people September 2016: 4 people August 2016: 5 people July 2016: 4 people June 2016: 1 person May 2016: 1 person April 2016: 9 people March 2016: 5 people
I have been looking for some thin flat timber for another project for some time and ended up on Ebay. Then another thought have a look down the local tip seems I spend A lot of time there but I don.t I Just look about when throwing out something that I can Not give away on freecycle. Anyway looking through the paints again Yep bought 4 small tins Assorted colours. £1 and tripped over a window blind that was left leaning against the wall. Picked it up and realized it was a wooden blind. And Guess what it was wood constructed with thin strips and NOT plywood.A little under 3 mm thick and 25mm wide. I guess ripped down into very small strips it would be Ideal for those that make wooden boats or even strip wood hulls. So yet another £1 spent. and stored away for later use. I guess buying something like this from elsewhere could cost a small fortune. I am thinking that your local freecycle website may also be a place to look..For free wooden blinds.
I built mine a couple of years ago. The wood is good quality and the metal fittings dont take much cleaning up. My fireboat runs of a brushless motor running of lipos batteries and performs well. I used auto paints regards the finish. and very pleased with it. It performs a good as my 49" Perkasa which runs of two brushless motors with the lipos wired in series.
For sale is my " Maggie M" kit which has to go to fund my next Lifeboat kit. The kit has everything to complete the model including a brushed MFA 919D series motor with a 2:5:1 gearbox, coupling and brass propeller but with the exception of paints, crew figures, model filler, adhesives, Tools and equipment. To complete a fully working radio controlled model a minimum 2 channel radio, speed controller and suitable battery would also be required. The kit has been started and the pictures show the work carried out. The size and weight of the packaged model will make insured post and packing expensive so local pick up is desired with payment in cash on collection, but I am prepared to arrange carriage at cost. The price is £200 ono plus p&p if required.
The paint brand I am using is widely used by UK modellers and I too would also avoid bargain basement paints for the reasons you describe. I still need to find somewhere for this boats maiden voyage, other than the test tank (bath!), but that's not going to be until the spring.
Glad your up to date with all the paints out there,some of them can really be JUNK!!!Keep going,lookin good!!!Now that Christmas is out of the way I can start cleaning this place up too get back to building.Take a look at our club web site sometime (PMPBA )we are running our boats in the Tualatin Commons,very nice pond to run them in.Happy Hollidays and enjoy your build
Excellent article 5 pages of very informative advice. I am putting the final touches to my 1:35 crash tender and like many have found my experience within the auto trade and paints of various types extreemly useful. Purchase all paint from my local automotive supplier, lots more for your £. This is the first boat I have built since 1957! when I used an old railway loco motor and a clunk click MacGregor RC unit. Those were the days before all the modern technology available to day. 👍 thank you
You can paint laquer over enamel ,but I would suggest going back to the base wood.Use a primer sealer to seal all the other paints out then go from there.I know what your talking about,happened to me till I figured out how to deal with it.Ive even gone as far as to brush on a couple layers of 30min epoxy deluted 50% with denatured alcohol to use as a sealer then start my primers to get smooth.Do Not Paint Enamel over Laquer,the enamel takes a long time to dry which attacks the under layment of any paint/primer.This is why the bubbles form under the paint you just put on
Hi MTB man . The ;lk] Hi MTB man.The point is that it is really shocking just how much people are giving away. Some peeps ( often widows and or children ) Just want to get rid asap while others want things to go to good homes so to speak.A lot of the time they have no idea of the true value of what is there. It happened to me as I said . 7, Planes and a complete ready to go fast pilot launch All were complete and fully fitted out. Tx s and Rxs good quality Futaba stuff .Plus tools chargers paints airbrush and much more.Another donor gave a Tiger Moth kit worth about £ 200.Another a model of a continental canal barge two brand new Graupner 600 motors and a matchstick tramcar kit plus a lod of bits and pieces. Another gave me a Clarke scroll saw. So it can hnappen all from a couple of free ads.I am not saying to take advantage of people and you can offer something you feel appropriate as I did. In my case she would not take anything for herself and said that she was" Only too glad that the stuff was going to someone who would appreciate it." So don't be shy ,or proud . Give it a try It costs nowt and could work out well/ BTW sometimes the widow or whatever " Just want's to get rid of all his bloody JUNK " P.S just let your conscience guide you John Regards John
[Score: 8/10] 13"/600g Helen Capable of 13mph and a runtime of 10mins Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type 20mm) Direct Drive to a Graupner or Johnson (2 Blade S Type) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 15Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Futaba I think (10Amps) ESC - Comments: Came as part of a donation of a ladies late husbands collection He did lovely work. Mainly planes. Lots of Radio gear and tools and paints too. I was embarrassed by how much there was she was giving away so I offered her all I had with me . she refused that £ 10 too until I said would she accept it as a donation. I assume her husband had an illness being researched .Lovely lady and daughter . I have another which I will write up/
Hi Ed Sorry, not sure what you mean about painting the inside? The instructions give some idea of when to paint and I will be following those to a great extent. Certainly before cabin construction is complete. I will be using different size brushes and Humbrol enamel paints of the appropriate colours and finish. Hope this helps. Steve
"Air Inhibition Air inhibits the curing process in some resins, with the result that the exposed resin surface tends to remain tacky. This effect is used deliberately in gel coats, but can be a problem with some resins additives which prevent air inhibition discolour the resin and therefore cannot be used for some applications, e.g. clear casting." "Gel Coat A thixotropic resin invariably used as the first coat (applied without glass reinforcement) on the mould surface. It forms the hard, smooth shiny surface of the finished article and is usually pigmented. It paints on easily but does not drain from vertical surfaces. When 2% wax solution is added it becomes a Flowcoat." https://www.ecfibreglasssuppli es.co.uk/t-GlassReinforcedPlas tics.aspx I found all this out the HARD way when I bought the wrong resin and ...................
HI Alan and Jarvo Thanks for that info. The deck will have to be sanded down and before a respray, a good base preparation will be required plus clear lacquer for a final finish. I guess that Halfords spray paints are the most readily available ones . The hull is painted in satin black and red below the waterline and neither the hull or the cabin tops are suffering from the problem. Many thanks Boaty
HI Ken Nice to hear you have built in wood. One of the problems that can occur over time is water penetration into the wood and glue joints. In the past dope and tissue were often used to form a barrier. Nowadays you can buy fine grade glass cloth and laminating resin which can be applied sparingly to the hull to provide an impervious surface that can be sanded smooth and takes paints easily. It is also beneficial to apply to the inside of the hull to protect against any water ingress and condensation. The material is used for many applications and in particular for full size glider wings. U-tube should have a few useful videos to help you understand the basics. To keep the weight down the resin is spread with a plastic card (credit card size) to force the resin into the weave. I rub down after the initial coat and apply a fine skim coat which will dry silky smooth and hard. Rattle spray cans are readily available and can act as the primer/undercoat for the final colour. The red oxide makes for a good below waterline colour. Try and avoid gloss, the silk type will look more realistic. Good luck Dave
Hey Guys, I've sanded my plank on frame hull of a Coast Guard life boat build. This is my first build. I want to the hull to simulate a steel hull so it needs to be smooth a blemish free. Color aside, what are my steps and what type paints do I need? I'm sure there are primers involved. Thanks for any help......