Thanks to you too Peter 👍 Will be watching your progress also with interest. As you have an airbrush you can buy concentrated paint of the exact specific colour you want, don't have to rely on 'well it looks similar' from spray cans, and you will have much more control over spray area and shape, overspray and above all an even spray pressure. Compressor with air tank highly recommended for the latter 😉 I'm collecting the bits and paints for my ELCO PT Boat but I'm determined to finish the restoration / upgrade of Dad's old Sea Scout first. I hope he's looking down and is happy with what I've done with his boat up to now. Spent yesterday making a mahogany aft deck / hatch and sub-frame for it. Now more sanding and varnishing!! Happy painting, Doug 😎PS: before you start with the colour coats on your boat I can highly recommend that you apply a coat or two of primer / filler, not just the thin normal primers. White primer would be better under the light Pacific Green and grey under the antifouling red. 😉
I know I could have gotten a cheaper motor. But the Dumas motor is what I'm going with! I ordered it yesterday Friday. It's a very expensive purchase for the model! $82.00 😤, so will be ordering the paints in two weeks time. Maybe go to the hobby shop to look at the paints first hand!
Many thanks Doug for the paint info, I notice there are 2 hellgrau on their lists, one light grey and one Baltic light grey, would that be the colour in later life of the ship? It's a pity that they are enamel paints, where lifecolour are acrylic, could you suggest the colours for my Bismarck. many thanks again, Peter👍
Hi Doug, All I saw was the grey, Reminded me of my Navy days! Thanks for the paint chart! It really helps a lot. The #90, Beige Green matt is what I'm looking for! I've use Tamiya paints in the past! Liked the way the paint went on smoothly on to the surface! Yes, I will be asking a lot about the LED's connection! I'll be using 3mm LED's. Steve (Cormorant). Was very kind to send me some to me. also a smoke generator which is not tested yet! Have to order the fuel for it!
Hi Peter, 'Hellgrau' is German for light grey. And DKM means Deutsche Kriegs-Marine. UA603 /DKM50 is in the Set 1 that you have. I also have the Lifecolor Set 1 (Surface Ships) and also the Set 2, Cammo colours, these are for my U-Boat. Attached is a colour chart of the former White Ensign Colour Coats naval paints, now sold by Sovereign Hobbies in UK. See 'KM01 Hellgrau 50'. So if the Lifecolor set runs out you can restock from them 😊👍 Happy spraying, cheers Doug 😎 BTW: Re 'Collection'! that was only the half of it😲 I've started an Excel 'Stash Log' to keep track, I should live so long to build them all - I've come to regard some as an investment as many are originals and rare 😉 Did I mention Cambletown, German Narvik destroyer, T45 and Illustrious in 1/350 and a Fletcher class at 1/144, Scharnhorst at 1/400 ?? 😁 NTM the original Revell 1/72 Flower Class, and a whole box load of PE to go with it - much more than is in the later 'Premium' version 😉
Hi Mark, here's the link to the manufacturer website. http://www.kwasny.com/en/products/ Forgot to mention, the gloss white I used is also from them, from the 'belton' series. The Primer Filler and Protection Laquer are from the 'Auto K' series. Don't know if they can send paints to UK🤔 Maybe they have a British distributor? look forward to pics of the Puffer 👍 Doug 😎
Hi Mark, thankyou 😊 The paint is, not surprisingly for me, from a German manufacturer: Peter Kwasny Gruppe. They also make the pro car paints I sometimes use. It's article number 320 078. Königsblau / Royal Blue. The can top is darker than the finish actually turns out! To me it's lighter than Royal Blue but I'm happy with it. I also used - the white primer from the same company; article number 320 411, before that light grey filler primer, # 233 032, and finally clear high gloss protective lacquer # 633 017. The blue and the white primer I found in a local building supplies store under the name 'Hit Color Decospray'! They are specified for indoor and outdoor use; emission class A+. 👍 You might find something similar in your local DIY shop. I think your Puffer would look superb in this colour. If you want a darker shade you might try a thin coat of matt or satin black after the primer? The primer filler and lacquer I bought online some time ago as part of a Pro Scratch Repair kit for my last car. Now what can I do with the rest of the Toyota Navajo Red ??? I sent them the paint code from my car registration and they mixed up an absolute perfect match and delivered in about 10 days 😊 I'll dig in the archive for the web link. Ciao, Doug 😎 PS I think you're right, I'll go for Gold (😉) and hope I don't mess up the hull! Tamiya tape should help.
Hmm! I see where you're coming from Ed, but bear in mind that matt paints have a habit of developing shiny spots wherever they are touched! 🤔 Wear and tear,servicing and cleaning etc. I would use the satin (semi-matt) paint and finish off with matt clear varnish for protection, also UV protection! 👍 I use the Lord Nelson varnish for that. http://www.krickshop.de/Products/Paints-Accessories/Paints-f... Cheers Doug 😎 PS Sorry to hear about the glue 🤔 Oh well! There's always Sellotape 😉 Or as Grandad used to say "If all else fails - use bl***y great nails" 😉
Hi Doug, I like the green! Now I don't want any shine what so ever though! Hi Marky, I'm going to take a look on my side see if I can bring up the link! I was able to bring up the website. But all it was was about house paints😭! Thanks guys👍 I'm a keep on looking......
I was very pleased to see the texts re spraying, paints etc. I am fairly new to spraying my "Surfury" and it is taking some time. I certainly agree with all the statements on preparation, for me this divides into 2 categories. 1. Boat surface preparation. 2 Paint consistency/temperature/spraying. For 1 you cannot rush it, for as noted, gloss paint certainly shows up any imperfection so you must be dedicated to spend considerable time on this. But 2. Right or wrong, after sealing and undercoating (plus the rub down) I chose to use Humbrol enamels. There followed many weeks of spraying after getting the mix right, correcting my spraying technique, inevitable rub downs etc. I came to the conclusion that many thin coats were the norm and cleaning of the spray gun (Badger) after every use was mandatory! However, the best finish achieved was by spraying in a warm surrounding temperature. This was achieved in my garage with a small calor gas fire. I believe that this latter point is the most important of all. When the painting is complete I will post a few pictures. Thanks to everyone for their excellent, informative replies. Bill.
The Upol Barcote product recommended is intended for Industrial use mainly in car restoration. The spec sheet can be seen at http://www.u-pol.com/files/6689/up0720-SDS-EN. If you are intending to use this Full PPE equipment should be worn and only use in a well ventilated area. Personally I use paintstrippers, scapers and a hot air paint stripper to clean wooden hulls back to bare wood. This allows me to see any damage caused by fuels used with IC engines. I agree its messy, takes time and is best done outside, but you do end up with a solid hull with no hidden soft spots. I agree with Jarvo's use of Clear Cote either in gloss or semi matt finish. If the air temp is much below 20 deg most rattle cans will not give a good finish and runs will be difficult to avoid.