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>> Home > Tags > parts

Soldering practice ahead of making railings ! by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
You should get good results with that iron. Not sure what type of solder you used but the resin cored works well. My local pound shop sells a paste flux in a small tub and this will help the solder run into and around the joint. If you are making adjacent joints with that iron you may need to use damp cloths to stop the heat breaking the already soldered joints. I sometimes use a big piece of copper that I clamp over the parts needing protection. You clearly have mastered the process right from the start and are to be congratulated Dave

Looking for plans of a greek fishing boat by Burgy Apprentice   Posted: 8 days ago
Hello, Looking for plans of a boat simular to the one in the uploaded photo, i saw it on holiday and would like to build one. This will be my first build. It might be possible to mill some of the parts on my cnc router. Regards, Burgy

3D printing by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
I agree Delboy, 👍👍 I'm also a pensioner since February, but I had the foresight to acquire the tools I wanted to revive my long neglected model building (3D printer, milling machine etc) during the last few years of my working life. Along with various kits, materials, new 2.4Gig RC etc. Miniaturised RC kit for 'Plastic Magic'. Still learning to use all that. 🤔 BUT doesn't make me forget the traditional skills I learned as an impoverished schoolboy then student then junior engineer! I still often reach for the hand tools! Many things are still best done that way, but if I want several identical parts for a project why not print or machine? Simply uses a different skill set, which can also be learned, just like any traditional skill! But Delboy don't forget that many people still make their own hulls, and plans, several current build blogs emphasise this. Also good 😉 Colin; was a tenfold repeat necessary to hammer home your point??? You never know if you can until you try, if you don't try you never will 'can'! Despite all this, Happy modelling everyone and even Happier Sailing.😊 "Immer ein Handbreite Wasser unterm Kiel!" Cheers Doug 😎

3D printing by sonar Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Missed the point altogether. What I was saying is I have no idea how to use either the 3 d printer or the software. So would rely on other people to do everything for ME just so I could print a part. So far as other items that I would buy Like hull and materials i would buy with no worries so I may just as well buy any other small parts rather than make them myself on a 3d printer. Even though I would very much like a 3d printer. IF I cant use one no point in having one.

Fairplay X - Plastic Magic! :-) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Thankyou, a very diplomatic description 😊 Finding the tools is not so much the problem but the right parts!! 'I knowed I had one of those somewhere!!!' 🤔

3D printing by Midlife306 Captain   Posted: 12 days ago
Looks very good value, especially with the auto bed levelling. Check the sellers feedback that they are actually coming from the UK as there are some dodgy sellers out there & you can end up getting stung for import duty. May also be worth checking Thingiverse that there are plenty of upgrade parts for the Tronxy. Also worth checking out YouTube for build videos, that's what I used & 6 hours later mine worked at first attempt. Also check for Feedback's videos!! Order yourself a 1kg roll of PLA filament of the correct diameter, I'm guessing you'll want 1.75mm. Enjoy the adventure & if there's any help you need just ask! The only daft questions are the ones you don't ask lol Cheers Wayne

3D printing by Delboy Petty Officer   Posted: 14 days ago
As a post post script regarding your comment concerning printing parts to make the machine better. This is probably the case with most printers in this sort of price range but it's not arduous and, if you design the parts yourself using something like OpenSCAD then you you know that you have really earned that whisky nightcap.

Winch operated large or heavy boat launching and retrieving apparatus by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Good to hear you received your parts. We're having a heat wave here, I'm not keen on going out side. to spray my last Barge. Guess I'll wait till the heat wave is over!

Gentlemans Cruiser by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi Muddy, i agree with you on the details. Sometimes it is necessary to leave out some of the more filigree stuff for practical operating reasons! Or resort to etched or cast parts. But then they also require assembly and finishing! On reflection, and nipping down to the cellar to check, it's not a band-saw I have but the King Craft electric fretsaw! Technically called a scroll-saw I just learned from Wiki! Has the advantage of using standard 5" fret-saw blades and you can cut internal shapes, e.g. hollowing out bulkheads, without needing an entry cut from the edge 👍😊 So, back to work now, just had a DHL delivery of the remaining parts for my Sea Scout renovation and update 😊😊 Cheers Doug 😎

Fairplay X - Plastic Magic! :-) by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
I had the wife tidy up the workbench two yrs ago. I still can't find what she did with those parts. and I'm still looking for some of my paints 😡

The suction hoses – part 2. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
The next piece I tackled was the bulkhead connector to which the assembled hose is connected. This is not a particularly complex piece but I had to engineer it’s attachment to the bulkhead to allow for easy removal. As with the suction pickup I added four short pieces of brass as turning handles to the ‘cover cap’ for the want of a better description, this cap would be undone to reveal the male connector of the pump intake and the cap would have a retaining chain. This chain would presumably be attached to the bulkhead in some way but I needed it to attach to the base of the fitting. I drilled a hole through the spigot on the cover cap and formed a loop from some brass wire for the chain attachment. Similarly I drilled the base and made another wire loop for the chain attachment there. I didn’t have any suitable chain so I thought I would have a go at making some by winding about 20 turns of brass wire around a piece of thin brass rod which I then cut through lengthwise with a hacksaw to produce some brass loops. These loops were then flattened, linked and closed to form the chain and a short length of the finished chain attached to the fitting. Very fiddly work and a test of the eyesight 🤓 As mentioned, I needed to make the fitting easily removable without using screws or a threaded stud as it needs to be removed without tools to allow the cockpit floor to be lifted out. To achieve this I put a 3mm thread into the rear of the fitting and then threaded a piece of 3mm brass rod to go into that. I made a retainer to go into the bulkhead that would provide a friction fit for the hose connector. This was made from a short length of 3mm I/D brass tube set into another short supporting piece of 4mm I/D tube and a piece of 14 swg brass plate, all the parts were silver soldered together with the 3mm tube protruding the plate by the thickness of the bulkhead. The 3mm tube was cut crossways to form some ‘fingers’ that will grip the 3mm shaft of the fitting. To provide extra grip I used a piece of rubber sleeve and a small pipe clip over the ‘fingers’. This piece was glued into a 4mm hole in the bulkhead with the end of the tube flush with the bulkhead. The hose connecter is then pushed into this retainer with a firm friction grip but is easily removed without any tools. Definitely getting the hang of working with brass now 😁 Still not inclined to by a lathe though 😜 The remaining fittings should be a lot easier...I hope.

The suction hoses – part 1. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
One of the distinctive features of the RAF fire boats are the suction hoses in the rear well of the boat, and they were something that I was keen to reproduce with some accuracy. They have been very successfully modelled by others and there are some fine examples of their construction on this site and consequently a wealth of tips and ideas on how to make them and I have shamelessly taken the best of them to make my own. The key elements are, of course, the fitting at the hose ends which probably would have been originally made of cast bronze or brass and machined and jointed to couple together to form the complete hose. To replicate this in anything other than brass would not be doing justice to the model, and as you may be aware, I have a brother who is also a skilled model maker, and he has a lathe and has previously made some excellent brass fitting for me. I started by studying the few photographs of the boat and some drawings supplied to me by Mike Cumming at Vintage Model Works and I made up some engineering drawings, one for each fitting, and emailed them off to my brother. I also ordered some 15mm brass bar to be delivered to him for the fittings and once he had approved my drawings, set about machining the parts. A while later the parts duly arrived in the post and they were excellently made exactly as my drawings and so I then set about adding some more detail to them. I only have one set of these fittings so I can’t afford to make any mistakes and ruin them 😱 The most challenging fitting to be tackled was the suction pickup into which I wanted to inset some stainless steel filter mesh, so I carefully measured and marked off the areas of metal that needed to be removed. With the piece in the drill vice I cut a series of holes which were gradually enlarged, and then the remaining metal removed with files to form the square apertures. The collar of the fitting was then drilled to take some short brass rod ‘handles’ which were soft soldered in place and then filed to length. The stainless steel mesh was cut to fit inside the fitting with the join concealed behind part of the brass. The circular end cap was made by pressing the mesh into a piece of brass tube the same diameter as the inside of the fitting using a piece of brass bar as a mandrel. After thoroughly cleaning the fitting with some wire wool the mesh filter pieces were finally epoxied in place. That’s the most difficult piece out of the way, much to my relief. One down, four to go 😁

Fairplay X - Plastic Magic! :-) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Grazie mille! Yep, big demand! Tricky work. Well done. 👍👍 I have some old Mini Racers (cars) I can take some tiny parts from. Grazie for the inspiration 😉👍 Saluto Doug 😎 PS your 'Neapolitan' English is much better than my very limited Italian 👍

Fairplay X - Plastic Magic! :-) by malctank Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 18 days ago
I am sorry for any misunderstanding the smitnederland was a plastic model at about 1/200. Scale and the small boat I took all the radio bits was one of them little boats that you can buy for about £8 it has two pods on the bottom of it with motors in it and the radio parts inside and battery with charging socket so all you do is take all the radio stuff out and cut the wires on the two pods and install it into the other boat and you will have forward revers on both motors letting you turn in both directions ok

Gantry and Wheelhouse positioning by GrahamP74 Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
Been waiting for a few parts to assemble the motor so while waiting I made a start on the other parts that can be done separately.. but it's so tempting just to put it all together to see what she will be like!!