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>> Home > Tags > parts

parts
parts
It's a sad day!. by Novagsi0 Captain   Posted: 7 days ago
If you see on my list above after the engine size if a D was noted its diesel and all these engines were for boat use and water cooled. However my father did make any parts needed so conversion to water cooling jacket on an engine was no problem if needed. Stephen.

MODEL ENGINEERING and MODELLING EXHIBITION 2018 by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
A really well attended show over 3 days there were lots of stalls selling mostly tooling type products but a good few boat related parts as well. There were lots of steam related stalls serving the model traction engine and steam train community, however the show of boat clubs was very disappointing (only 3) anybody know why? Still I had a great day and spent loads of money.

Final fitting of cabin roof skins by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Now that the internal detail of the cabin has been finalised and fixing points made for each of the panels and floor pieces (all parts of the cabin detail are to be removable) I can now finally fit the cabin roof skins. Since the leading edge has an overhang which because of the lifting design hasn’t the same framework support I have decided to reinforce the joint with stainless steel pins.to ensure a perfect fit, I made a tiny jig out of brass angle that ensured all the holes in each piece lined up. I then placed pieces of silicon sheet on the parts I really didn’t want the skins to stick to the cabin framework. Fist all the pieces were position and pinned to ensure a good fit, they were then removed adhesive applied and the skins finally placed and pinned, most of the pins will be removed when it’s dry. The centre panel has an opening for the hatch so this was put in prior to fixing. After a day’s drying it’s time to see if the whole thing works as envisaged, thankfully it does. The roof will now have to be dismantled so further work can be carried out it, will also get a covering of glass matting to add overall strength.

Rudders and propeller by teejay Lieutenant   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi all for the second blog report on the schenllboot I am going to go over the rudder an propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat , these were made to be above the water line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts .which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel)and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum power mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The forth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I have to ask for some help could any one advise me on the length of propeller shafts , I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft but port and starboard will have to be longer . and I also need advice on selecting the motors , I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.

Ship's Boats by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Shucks Marky, I had hoped this was a new 'surface finishing' technique for printed parts 😁😉

Ship's Boats by marky Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
I think digitalizing the drawings would be the time consuming bit ,if you had a 3D scan of the hull it could be scaled to the desired scale then depending on the printer build dimensions broken down into printable size parts a.Cheers Marky

Red Oxide Primer! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I went to the local autoparts store. Looking for ruby red primer! I was lucky to find Red Oxide Primer. Tomorrow if it's not windy. I'll paint the top half of the hull! This time I hope. I paint the right part of the hull! Oh, I had gotten a can of flat black. But it turned out to be kind of like a satin black. It had a bit of a shine to it! I didn't like it! Not what I wanted. But I found what I was looking for. A nice looking Black with NO shine to it at all!

Bits n pieces arrived / Aft Deck Mk 2 built ;-) by Donnieboy Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Coming along nicely.Love the finish on the deck and roof.Also it's nice to find something in the parts bin that can be used again.That's if you remember where it is.I have a little trouble remembering where I put them.

Amati chrome plated ships wheel - Help! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Very likely teejay! When white metal gets hot enough it just goes 'Ploop' and all you have left is a Blob 😡 Of course if they are 'quality' they may well be chromed brass. If in doubt I would use the super glue specially developed for photo etch. Would help though if we had some pics of the parts, and maybe info about the source / manufacturer to see if we can find out what it's made of. cheers Doug 😎

Amati chrome plated ships wheel - Help! by Black Dog Jack Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
I have just taken delivery of an Amati 40mm did chrome plated ships wheel. It comes in three separate, very slippery parts which need to be secured together, but with no directions how to do it. Can anyone recommend a good way to fix it all together? I have tried superglue but that only got it over my fingers and everywhere else. I am leaning towards solder, but have bottled out so far. Any suggestions?

try try again - Aft Deck Mk2 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Spent a 'relaxing' day cutting and trimming new parts! Pics later, off to the GF now for an Easter Dinner 😜 After that - 'Let the bending commence' 😉 Happy Easter folks, 😎

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by kmbcsecretary Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
Today while waiting for the weather to warm up i have started work on the ships boat which when finished will be 8" in length and a beam of 4". I will be making this using mahogany for the whole boat and the first job was to cut, sand and glue the parts that make up the keel. this was made using 5mmx3mm mahogany sandwiched between 2 lengths of 10mmx2mm mahogany which when finished will give 5mm square keel.i have always found it easier doing it this way rather than try and bend the wood.

plasticard by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I am a returner to boat building after 45 years and have always used marine ply for the construction of all parts of my models. I am currently building the 46" crash tender ( I have a current Build Blog) and whilst browsing this site I see many people using plasticard for their construction, can anybody list the pro's and cons of this material eg 1 cost 2 ease of cutting plasti V ply eg circular saw, filing, knife cutting, bending/forming 3 gluing issues 4 paint preparation 5 gluing to other materials 6 overall which do people prefer

1-35 scale S100 schennllboot blog by teejay Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi all this is my first blog, last year I post my intention to do a project about an RAF D boat that my Father served on and as a precursor to that build That I was going to do this S/E boat as the hull design is shared buy both, and as plastic kit modeller the kit great the first stage was to put together the decks and superstructure as normal, with the exception of all the bits that would be easily broken as most kit aircraft modellers aerials and guns tend to brake ,so long ago I got into the habit of making these out brass rod or bar using a mini drill and a set of needle files, holding the drill in my left hand and the files in my right, when started this I saw the number of stanches I needed so I came across this little beauty a mini bead lathe it is a great bit of kit and not expensive less than £50 and plenty of types and accessories available so all the stanches aerials hand rails, gun rails, horn, and some of the components for the rudder and tiller were made on this lathe. so good time being had in my first radio control boat . the next post will show all the parts for the rudder/tiller setup

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute by Richard7 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
Hello, l am very new to this forum and this is my first post so here goes. I have just started the Billing kit St Canute and l have installed the prop and rudder shaft. I found out that it is best to complete fig 1, 2, 3of the building instructions. But before l did that l drilled a small hole in part 53 for the rudder& prop shaft. Then glued all the parts. Before planking l cut away where both shafts, glued (2 part glue) both in place. My problem which l hope someone could help me with is fitting the M500 motor, as far as l can see l am going to have to remove a lot of wood from the keel part 00 and bulk head 5 so l can fit a support for the motor bracket as it looks like the motor has to fit very low so it aligns with the prop shaft. This has to be done at this stage as it would be almost impossible to do this with the planking in place. Can anyone help with any advise regarding fitting the M500 motor to the St Canute? Appreciate any help, thanks Richard7