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"But you know the best indication is when a two second task takes 2 hours as you seem to have lost the parts you started with and then find some of them and again lost the bits you found the very first time." Tell me about it! 🤔
In my case getting old means Taking the top of off the superglue then spending the next hour looking for it. And then cutting a piece of material for a specific part of the model Then two minutes later picking up the same part and cutting it smaller for another part of the model. But you know the best indication is when a two second task takes 2 hours as you seem to have lost the parts you started with and then find some of them and again lost the bits you found the very first time.
Hi Dave. Glad you're enjoying the blog. Modellingtimbers is operated by a very nice chap called Keith Jewell who was extremely helpful to me in choosing the correct scale grating, a real 'diamond' of a chap. PS. If you really like fireboats and my build has inspired you, check out the very comprehensive kit of parts that justintime2001 is selling, it's an incredible bargain for the asking price, and you can use my build blog as the set of instructions (far better that the ones supplied with the kit 😜). Rob.
The last model I made was built fully for £47! That included the £30 cost of the hull. I made the majority of parts from PVA board which I got from eBay for £10. Poundland glue and cocktail sticks to hold parts together. Also used wire to add edge to v doors and wire threaded through the forward rails. Made fenders by shaping wooden dowel on the lathe and painting and the best was the net... made from a dyed dishcloth!!! Pics attached of the various stages showing the construction!
a REAL scary question 🤔 1 H class Destroyer and 1 Submarine KM IIA (1:72) in SLEP (Service Life Extension Programme!) 1 KM pocket Battleship Graf Spee & 1 HMS Belfast (1:128) in Fitting Out Dock. 1 Tug Southampton ca 1:50 ARTR 1 Kentish Fishing Boat ca 1:50 inherited restoration & motorisation project 1 Sea Scout restoration ARTR, built by my Dad 50 years ago! 1 flying boat ARTR 1 Hovercraft needing painting & RC gear fitting. Potential 'Plastic Magic' :- 1:350 Bismarck, USS Enterprise (The Big E), HMS Hood, HMS Ark Royal, Airfix HMS Illustrious (Invincible class) & T45 Daring 1:72 Revell Flower class corvette, German Lifeboat & S100 class E Boat, Airfix MTB, RAF Launch, KM E Boat 1:144 Revell Fletcher class destroyer. Have started collecting Micron Radio gear for the conversions. And JFF an Airship! Ready except for the Helium needed! Plus many 1:400 1:600 1:720WW2 navies plastic kits & etched parts JFF & to hone the skills I should live so long ! Help 🤔 Cheers from Munich Doug 😎
Inwards or outwards - should the props be turning to meet together above the shaft or below it? Also from Wikipedia "Contra-rotating is where parts of a mechanism rotate in opposite directions about a common axis, usually to minimise the effect of torque. Contra-rotating propellers should not be confused with counter-rotating propellers, a term which describes non-coaxial propellers on separate shafts; one turning clockwise and the other counter-clockwise." Torpedoes are a marine example of contra-rotating props. Roy
G/Day All Thanks for all of your advice. I have a 2 blade 40mm prop and the shaft is running free. i originally running a Johnson brushed motor with no problems with power except it and the esc i had got extremely hot. i could not find a water cooled brush motor so that is why I got the brush less motor. It is very hard to get model boat parts in Australia. Maybe it might be easier to put the old motor back in, i have now got a water pump so i maybe able to make a cooling system. Cheers Allan
The tow hook stays brace the tow hook by tying the tow hook deck to the keel to transfer the load when the boat is towing a seaplane and is a simple structure on the full size boat but as scale feature is quite tricky to reproduce. It also has to be made to allow the rear well deck to be removed for access to the rudder servo etc. so this took a bit of thinking about how to make it easily removable.🤔 As my brass working skills seem to be improving I decided to make this in brass for strength and durability. Mike Cummings at Vintage Model Works had previously very generously supplied me with a set of drawings which included the tow hook detail and these were of great help in the making process.👍😊 First I marked out the fixing plate on some 22 gauge brass and cut and filed it to the correct shape and then two pieces of 6mm brass tube cut to the correct angle where they meets the plate. After some measurement and geometric juggling the cockpit deck was marked with the positions of the holes that the bracing stays pass through and I used my brass ‘cookie cutter’ to make two neat holes through the decking planks for the flanges that the stays pass through but in this case the tubes will finish just below deck level to allow it to be removed. These flanges were made from some 14swg brass plate, filed to a circular shape and with the centre hole pierced and filed to an angle for the tube to pass through with a small clearance gap to allow them to hinge on the two brass pins that I drilled and inserted into the flanges. This hinging feature allows the towing stay assembly to hinge back slightly to aid removal. I drilled the upper ends of the tubes where they meet the fixing plate to take two brass pins that will hold the parts securely in place while soldering and two temporary brass bracing pieces were then soft soldered to the tubes to hold them at the correct angles and separation. All the parts were thoroughly cleaned and assembled and silver soldered together and then the soft soldered braces were removed and the whole assembly cleaned up with abrasive and wire wool. Two false bolt heads were soft soldered to the plate to add a finishing detail, the centre fixing is a cap head threaded screw that fixes the assembly to the cockpit bulkhead. I sprayed two light coats of etch primed and when dry brush painted the whole piece with two coats of ‘gun metal’ grey. Happily the part sits perfectly in place on the deck and hinges back easily as intended so that removal and re-fitting is simple…unlike the process involved in conceiving and making the part 🤓
Here are the parts for the gearbox, motor from a scraped model monster truck. Gears from my stock, old printers, toys & anything I can get my hands on. Motor & box in place. Marking the prop shaft for the blades. silver soldering blades in place, held temporary with fire cement.
Thanks Dave, I have managed to get a picture of the 'plans' off Google but they are not too wonderful are they! I am thinking that a cut and paste replacement of the rotten parts will be required, but as I would not even class myself as a carpenter let alone a model maker I can see exciting times ahead! The black bits on my boat are really black, and spongy. I will pm you as I think I am going to need all the help I can get. Chris
Hi Chris Sounds like it was an IC model. That black stuff is ply impregnated with nitro fuel. I have a copy of the original plan but it was intended more as a building guide for the pre-cut parts. All Aerokits followed the same basic design and had a ply keel running the entire length of the keel. Vertical formers attached to the keel were skinned with thin plysheets. The oil usually seeps down along the keel from the inside and causes the ply to delaminate. You can usually get away with removing just the damaged parts and replacing with new ply wood. If you can do that and fill any dents etc with plastic padding followed by a covering and Eze-Kote it should be solid and watertight. I am attaching some pics of a hull I acquired for the 48" Crash Tender in a part (badly) built state. The last pic is of my Sea Queen hull after stripping for comparison. You can clearly see how the gunge can get into the wood grain especially if it was not treated with Eze-Cote inside. I have many more pics of various Aerokits restorations so if you would like copies I will share via Dropbox. Just send me a pm with your email and I will send you the link (it's all free) Dave
There are a lot of hobby and model shops closing throughout the country. When you think about it you walk into a model shop and expect to see loads of model kits and even more choices of fittings Spare parts and extras including a selection of electronics. I guess that is money tied up in stock just in case some some customer wants a specific item. or small items. If you walked into a shop and all there was were catalogues and you then had to wait for the items to arrive it is hardly worth keeping a shop going . So a smaller amount of stock saleable on line. Quite a few like myself have no hobby or model shop near to them so shopping on line is the easier to to obtain items. Then there are Supermarkets and numerous other specialized shops now on line. and who knows how many model items are only on a web site. Boat hulls for choice most if not all now on line. So I would have thought soon everything will be an easy option online for both the seller and buyer. Ebay is another option and a few website only hobby shops are there as well.
Initial output for a Trimaran USV. This is the product of the local boat makers here in my AO. Their craftsmanship is good. Still waiting for the side hulls. I'm contemplating on putting a 3hp motor inside. I will update the blog as soon as the parts gets available. 😁
Here is another model I have started a while ago. Still a long way to go and lots of lobster pots to make. The wheel house is just about done now and asking the members where would be the best position for it.. Stern or bow. The hull is 49 inches with a width of 16 inches. And will in due course be low in the water. Seeing as I have started this thread I will post more as and when I make the parts And again all the parts are recycled so the cost is low.