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>> Home > Tags > parts

parts
parts
Upper & Lower Chines by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
The next stage is to assemble and fit the upper and lower chines to the bulkhead formers. Each chine is made from three parts that are step jointed together, the instructions recommend using the plan to ensure correct alignment with a protective transparent paper between, however the cutting accuracy of the parts is such that having checked the alignment over the plan I was confident that assembling and glueing them together on the cutting mat would be OK. The upper chines were assembled first and when set were glued and pinned to the tops of the bulkhead formers with the fronts butting against the K1 keel former at the prow. The lower chines were assembled in the same fashion and when dry are glued and set into the slots in the bulkhead formers. Finally the stern former F7 is added and the whole assembly set aside to dry. The hull is quickly taking shape now and even at this stage is very rigid and yet remarkably light.

steam water pump by GaryLCoupland Petty Officer   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Rick, if you google TVR 1ABB steam engine, you will find a really neat and very good value for money steam engine. I'm afraid this is not cheap and around the £250 mark, mind it does have ball race bearings on the crankshaft. This comes as a kit of parts and you have to build it from scratch. when you have completed this task you will have a really good knowledge of exactly how a double acting slide valve engine works while putting this together, you can save up for a boiler to go with it, the instructions for building are very good almost idiot proof they must be as I have built several. Beautiful engine and powerful it will easily power a hull of one-meter length. Something to think about and Christmas is coming.

Becker Rudders for Smit Nederland by Adrenaco Apprentice   Posted: 8 days ago
Hello, I did not like the plexiglass rudder build up for the Billing Boats Smit Nederland's Becker Rudders, so I asked my son if he could draw and 3d print me the plastic parts, which he did (see pictures). My son is now offering these parts (just the plastic parts, you need to use the other parts from the original kit) on his 3d printing webpage CustomRCFactory. Since I know that people are sometimes looking for these I thought I'd share it here. They are €12,- per unit, so €24,- for a set of two plus shipping http://customrcfactory.com/index.php/categorie-produit/batea...

Smoke generator by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi Rowen, Looks very similar to what I fitted to my Sea Scout. I bought it from Krick here in Germany. They ship round the world and very fast👍😉 https://www.krickshop.de/Accessories-Spare-Parts/Accessories... Copes with my Propdrive 1000kV on a 3S very well 😊 You can buy the basic coupler and inserts for various motor/prop shaft diameters separately to mix and match as required. Copes with the power, is silent and slop free 😊 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS I turned up a rigid alu coupling in a few minutes on the lathe to do the setting up and alignment, much much quicker than faffing about with the 3D printer. Yes I do have one, but seldom used. The lathe and miller are quicker for one-offs.

Newby by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Welcome John, I envy you youngsters, a scratch built boat to any standard is always the best way to get what you want, and this site is full of members with the knowledge and skills to help, sadly I have never been able to build from scratch, but I make lots of parts to repair or replace damaged or missing parts from the vintage models I have restored. Best advice is to ask specific questions to get the best help in the world at your fingertips. Happy modelling and cheers from me Colin.

AZIZ KIT by Lordgord Petty Officer   Posted: 11 days ago
I have just become the new owner of an AZIZ kit (model slipway). It is unstarted and I am told by it's previous owner, that it may have parts missing, hmmmm. However, I believe I am up to the challenge, so, as soon as we get settled into our new abode and her indoors can't think of anything else that requires my immediate attention I shall make a start.😆 Watch this space!

Assembling the keel & adding bulkhead formers. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
With the box assembled and the glue fully cured the next stage is to glue the inner keel parts together and fix it to the underside of the box. The keel consists of four pieces that need to be jointed whilst on a flat surface, the instructions suggest that the parts are best assembled whilst laid over the plan with a transparent protective sheet between to ensure accurate alignment. A gap is left in the keel for the prop shaft and this gap is laminated over by some additional keel pieces on either side. I chose to deviate from the instructions here and fit these pieces after the prop shaft was in place to ensure a snug fit, I have it on order from Model Boat Bits along with the prop and rudder. The assembled keel is glued in place along the centre line of the inverted box and when dry the bulkhead formers can be added. The positions of all the formers are clearly marked on the box and the underside formers are added first followed by the side formers and lastly the bow formers, and the assembly set aside to dry. I’d almost forgotten how easy it is to work with balsa, it takes glue and pins readily and assembling this model is a joy, however, shaping the solid balsa bow blocks to the correct profiles will be an interesting challenge. But I don’t need to do that for a while yet.

Aeronaut Pilot Boat by cormorant Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Jotika Ltd are the main UK distributor for Aeronaut. http://www.jotika-ltd.com/Pages/1024768/Distributors_Front.h... I have just spoken to the MD, John and he can supply any parts you need. His phone number is 01905 776073. Hope this helps.

Vosper RAF Crash Tender by RobbieMcKennan Petty Officer   Posted: 14 days ago
I recently bought this boat as a part built project. It was started by the previous owner in 1973 but then put in the attic in 1974 and stayed there till this year. Sadly many of the plastic parts have become very brittle or are missing so having to source replacements plus the fittings were made to british standards and are now made in metric sizes, but getting there slowly

Metal sanding plates by Nonsuch Seaman   Posted: 27 days ago
I'm guessing that most of us remember Sandvik sintered metal sanding plates? I've had one for nearly forty years and it still works fine, but have always kept an eye open for another one. Last week I found a mini version on eBay, the NT Sander from Japan. It's made from 0.2mm stainless steel and about the size of a credit card. It looks as though the "pimples" are laser etched. It's flexible but comes with a sheet of double sided tape so it can be attached to a block. I bought the fine grade which is perfect for removing grain, raised after varnishing small parts. I doubt it will last forty years like the Sandvik, but it's a lovely piece of kit.

Mini lathe by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Aha! You mean the 'Lego Lathe'!! Lotsa blocks you can shove together to make a lathe or milling machine or .... Agree about the motor, not big enough or man enough for the job. I bought one at an exhibition some years ago, it's buried in the workshop somewhere.😲 Nowadays I mostly use my little Proxxon FD150/E. Just used it to make some parts for Colin's Taycol Supermarine renovation. Simple uncomplicated machine, good for small parts. Cheers, Doug 😎

Mini lathe by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
This is simply a revolving drill chuck.it doesn't have any longitudinal or cross feed travelling tool post and at best its only good for wood turning of very small diameter pieces of wood or polishing small parts. I don't think it suits your requirements. Colin you beat me to it by 60 seconds

36" Thames River Police Launch by Robbob by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
After the successful build of the ‘Vintage Model Works’ RAF Crash Rescue Tender I was asked by Mike Cummings of VMW if I would undertake to build a prototype of their new model with the aim of checking the construction method and the assembly instructions for accuracy before the kit is put into production. The model is a ‘Thames River Police Launch’ and is based on the original design by Phil Smith for the Veron company, this was a very popular model kit in the late 50’s and 60’s and sold for the princely sum of 43 shillings and tuppence, approximately £2.15 in today’s money but an equivalent cost of £48.50 in 1960. This design has been updated to accommodate electric propulsion and radio control by Colin Smith, the son of the original designer and it has been re-scaled to be 36” in length where the original was 24” which gives much more scope for detailing and provides more ‘hiding room’ for the drive, control systems and all the associated wiring. The kit produced by VMW uses the same construction techniques as the original and the materials are a combination of balsa and plywood both of which a laser and CNC cut for precision. The ply and balsa materials supplied are of very high quality as one would expect from VMW and all the stripwood for the chines, rubbing strakes and deck detailing is included, even the dowel required for the mast is in the box, very comprehensive! The kit also includes white metal fittings such as the fairleads and stanchions, and the searchlight and horns. The glazing for the windows comes in the kit too. The instruction sheet supplied is in need of revision as it is largely taken directly from the original as written by Phil Smith and some of the terminology needs updating, for instance the ply bottom and side skins are referred to as ‘strakes’ but I understand that a re-write of the instructions is in hand along with an updated plan showing the best positioning for the motor, prop-shaft, battery, ESC, receiver, rudder and servo. During construction I have added a few additional pieces of ply or balsa as reinforcement or supports and substituted some balsa parts for ply where I thought a stronger material would be better. I also added some hatches to give access to the wiring at the bow and the rudder & servo at the stern but largely I have not gone ‘off plan’ to any extent. The pictures show the model in it’s present state (Nov 2018) and is ready for painting and finishing.

Bluebird by Biscuit Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 10/10] 27" Bluebird Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type) Direct Drive to a 2881kv (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through ETTI (120Amps) ESC - Comments: This was a Touchwood static kit that my boy brought back from Coniston, it said it could be converted to Rc and had some sketchy drawings that were not very good. I decided to go brushless with it and lipo battery, was not an easy job as had to go it alone to find out C/G and drive set up. The kit was very poor with a twisted hull and resin parts that were far too heavy, I made some aluminium planing wedges and various other parts to save weight. This project took the best part of 5 years to complete as it would go back on the shelf as I got stumped for ideas then back off again as I found a bit more inspiration, overal it came out well and runs on rails with. Good turn of speed as you can see in the vid I posted.

HMS M.33 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Yep! an there's 'undreds of 'em Steve 😉 Took me most of an afternoon to do an inventory check 😁 PS: and all the superstructure and deck parts are on printed plasticard sheets! Hoooray for scroll saws 😁