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>> Home > Tags > parts

Spare parts by Jerry1 Petty Officer   Posted: 13 hours ago
I have emailed Model Slipway this afternoon, will let you if a get a answer

Spare parts by kmbcsecretary Lieutenant   Posted: 2 days ago
Have you given slipway a call , have always found them to be very helpful I'm sure they would be happy to help

Spare parts by Jerry1 Petty Officer   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi all, I am in the middle of building Drumbeat of Devon. The problem I have is the kit was purchased quite a few years ago and with moving home 3 times I have managed to lose the 5 cabin front styrene windows. I am hoping someone can help me make or have scale drawings? Cheers Jerry

U40 Tinplate clockwork submarine. by mactin Lieutenant   Posted: 2 days ago
Designed and hand built from scratch in three weeks (including the clockwork motor). Its only 11" long equipped with a 20ml trim tank midships,it can run on the surface or dive for about 20 feet.The hull is made from recycled tin cans hand beaten and wheeled smoothish in three parts.

Wianno Senior by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Getting started.

Vintage Aero Kit Crash Tender by CB90 Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
Brought this vintage Aero Kits RAF Crash Tender for £50 from Newcastle area, it is the 34in version. To my surprise at home I found that it had a Bullet 30 motor installed these motors were the top drawer motor of early fast electrics and its the only one I've ever seen, it can run on 24v and pull around 15A giving 300w not bad for a brushed motor. due to the power of this motor I have modified the hull under the water line with turn fins and trim tabs to reduce torque roll and improve turning stability, the underside is incorrect already as it only has one propshaft, where the original had two and I believe that both props turned in the same direction. The Pictures here show some of the work in progress I have remounted the motor and added a speed controller rated at 24v I have remade the stern compartment and rudder gear under it. I have blocked windows and foamed the front half of the boat. made missing parts and repaired delaminating ply. Note old ply is not as good as modern, the glue is not as water resistant. Have painted the hull and have just ordered the decals from Cornwall model Boats :- The 34in is 1/16 scale Fitting can be brought but many are cast white metal and can add weight to the boat, I have made two water cannons and plan to buy plastic fittings from this site. This has turned out to be a task that is difficult to assess how much effort and money to spend on a hull that has been built by someone else (say no more). Have just finished the steps for the stern compartment.

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat by MouldBuilder Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi Doug. I have just noticed that you have already answered my battery question in an earlier post. Do you have, by any chance, a legend for the MTB drawings you posted earlier. I cannot recognise some of the parts. The machine guns in the other picture look superb. I have found them on a website but it states they are brittle. Is this your experience with this kind of 3d printed item? Thanks.😉

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat by MouldBuilder Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 15 days ago
Thanks for the help. The tech on the motors and battery is a little beyond me at the moment but I will research and work it out. Thanks RNinMunich. The first thing I noticed about my build was where I had positioned the forward gun tub. I cannot imagine when I thought that was a good idea. It has now been removed. Thanks for the offer of the plans canabus. I think I have the originals here somewhere but yet to be found. I have found the build instructions and small plans for the deck parts. Reading just these comments has made me understand that I have a lot to learn. Well, here goes. The research begins. Thanks for your help so far. I am sure I will be back very soon as I really am keen to improve the boats looks and your experience will be invaluable.😊.

The wheelhouse, pain tempered by an inspired suggestion! by mturpin013 Captain   Posted: 15 days ago
I,m doing this part at the moment and as you say the parts are not very accurate, however its good to see what additional bits you added to solve the issues. A picture speaks a thousand words. Michael T

Sail Winch Servo Identification by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Thanks fellas I knew someone would have information on this. I am still trying to figure out how to run the sheets. This was never set up like the way shown in the attachments. Sometimes I think it would be far easier to set it up using Servo Arms as shown in the second attachment. Last photo is not clear to indicate sailing set-up as the system had broken parts. This photo was used in the for sale advertisement.

MV TEAKWOOD by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
Of course it does Dave, it's a fine model as I said. I've been impressed all through this build blog 👍 and have said so. Just a touch of humour to help the world go round 😉 Particularly as RH is in Canada and not Australia. I'm very grateful to some of our Australian friends, as I have posted here. Especially Canabus in Hobart who promptly sent me a complete parts list including Hobbyking order numbers when I asked advice on a brushless, prop, ESC setup for my Sea Scout renovation. All now safely installed. Cheers Doug 😎

Skinning the hull (bottom) by mturpin013 Captain   Posted: 26 days ago
The boat has to be placed upside down so first thing to do is to modify the base board so the hull is firm to be able to do any final trimming. Before the skins are fitted the bow areas have to be sealed being careful not to seal the parts which are to be glued The instructions say that the lower skins are fitted first and as they are 6mm oversize this allows for trimming to achieve a good fit. After some time I got a fit I was happy with from the stern to the start of the bow curve so at this point I pinned the skin at the B2,3,4,5 leaving enough material to trim to the bow curve prior to bending . The bending was done simply by soaking in hot water for 5 - 7 mins and then forming around a suitable paint tin and left overnight to dry. Before fitting I decided to trim the skin at the front bow area where it has a butt joint with the side skins, easier than trying to cut it out after it had been glued. Point to note was that while the bending was being carried out, I also bent he side skins as well. Having pre drilled all the holes for the pins and ensured the fit is as good as I can get I can now epoxy the first skin on.

Test fit the Rudder! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
Mornin' All, Hi Dave, yep, I thought about that as well but wondered if the prop tips might then get too close to the sweep of the keel to the hull! My experience with brass washers on rotating parts is that they wear much faster, and if you file them they can themselves end up working like files🤔 I would go for stainless. Rowen: basically agree about the nylon, although we are not talking power boat here so it shouldn't be too stressed.😉 Happy shopping Ed. Cheers Doug 😎

Test fit the Rudder! by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
Hi Ed I notice that your prop shaft sticks out from the hull which may be why the prop is so near the rudder. I treat all plans as guidance notes and trial fit the parts before final fixing. I believe we have all been in your position at some time or another! I agree with the advice already given and believe a thin washer and thinned locknut would give you the clearance you need. This isn't a speed boat so there will not be much stress on the set up but my preference would be brass, its easy to file and won't rust. I have in the past reworked the propeller boss but its not really a good idea, and does tend to spoil the looks.

HMS HOOD by Trumpeter by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
Hi Steve, I was afraid of that with the 160 quid set, but I can't say for sure as I only have the 1/350 version so I don't know yours in detail. Ask Model Dockyard for an idea of delivery time and if they can order it. Will take you a while to get to that stage anyway 😉 You can check out the Eduard sets here- Site is safe; I checked it out at McAffee Labs / Web Advisor😉 I have also often ordered stuff from Czech shops, deck gun kit and crew for my U25 for instance, never had problems.👍 Attached are the instructions for the RN figures. They are relatively big, compared to the 1/600 and 1/350 that I use! So I reckon if you carefully rub the insides against a rubber cutting pad with something like the end of a small paintbrush handle you should be able to give them some 3D form. Have fun, and don't forget to hoover the floor BEFORE you start!!!! 🤔 At least one of my 1/600 quad Vickers machine gun mounts + parts have vanished into the workshop nirvana after a few hours fiddling 😡 Cheers Doug 😎