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>> Home > Tags > parts

parts
parts
Sea Queen by AndyG009 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 days ago
If they are the same set that I bought, the drawings of the parts are not very accurate. The person put there name to them, and claimed copy right, and I am pretty sure the current manufacturers willactual hold the rights.

Classic by Tica Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
[Score: 9/10] 22"/1000g Classic Single Propellor (3 Blade 30mm) Direct Drive to a Graupner Compact 260Z 1380KV (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Graupner 18A (10Amps) ESC - Comments: This is a aero-naut Classic and I would say that it's a second revision, as there has been changed several items, compared with the one my wife build 3 years ago. 1: The wind shield is now fixed in slots in the deck and not just glued to the edge of the cockpit opening. 2: There are now padding and leather for the seat included. 3: There are a few etched details for the instrumentation, steering wheel and step plates for the deck. 4: There are notches at the break off parts that will help in fixing the sides when gluing them in place. I used the same set-up as my wife's which is: Graupner BL Compact 260Z 1380KV with a Graupne ESC 18A FWD and REV. The shaft is replaced with a Robbe 4mm (no 1442) as the one provided is a flimsy part that will not withstand the motor set-up. Prop is a 33mm Graupner racing item. It will be running on LiPo 2S but if one need a rocket it can run on 3S. Great fun to build and performs great on the water

Palaform Grffin 600 Hovercraft by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
So, have given the Vosper RTTL a break as have this Palaform Griffin 600 Hovercraft itching to be built! Having read a few build blogs on other sites, have decided to beef it up in places as we build as 3mm Depron isnt the strongest medium out there. I was going to copy all the parts to balsa and build it entirley from Balsa, but figured that would just increase the weight too much? I shall finish the model in a psudo RNLI colour scheme!

Prop Shaft Grease by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Please ,please,please DO NOT use copaslip or any other grease containing metal particles .It promotes wear on bearing surfaces and in bearing races. It is meant to be used as a non seize assembly grease, not for faces rubbing against each other. When it first came out I was in the motor trade and we like lots of other workshops thought it would be great for things like clutch release bearings. However we found to our cost that it actually promoted wear and we had to dismantle the thing and clean off the Copaslip from everywhere and replace both the bush in the shaft end the bearing and the clutch .A notice in big letters was put up on the grease cabinet.DO NOT USE GREASE CONTAINING METAL PARTICLES ON MOVING PARTS> IF YOU DO YOU BEAR THE COST OF LABOUR, PARTS,etc TO RECTIFY ANY DAMAGE resulting from this. Chief Engineer .👍😱 I would use the very soft water resisting white grease and oil.Grease nipple each end and oiler in the middle. A little grease each end and a dribble of oil in the middle.Only a little of each.

Ebay Horrors by bilzin Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
I saw an ad on Ebay listing a now discontinued Graupner kit of the Leanne Tön 12 shrimper and thought as it was no longer available I'd give it a try............mistake number one ! WHEN it finally arrived the box (water damaged) contained what the president of our model boat club described as 'a bag of bits' with about 40% of the parts missing and those that weren't were damaged in some way ie water damaged and warped. To cut a long story short, the seller was quite rude when I contacted him/her and refused point blank to refund my payment or accept a return. Furthermore I was accused of not sending true photographs of the contents of the package and denying other potential buyers the opportunity of bidding on this item. Finally, Ebay have considered this case and have ruled that not only is the item not as it was described , but that a refund must be made including the original postage fee. I realise that many unscrupulous sellers are of the mistaken belief that "NO RETURNS ACCEPTED" in their listing means just that, and that any old tat can be auctioned, but unfortunately for this seller that is not the case. I sincerely hope that this person has learnt the lesson that is not wise to attempt to " bullshit a bullshitter!" Lesson over !

M5 Prop Shaft by ChrisF Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 13 days ago
True, but the internet does make it easy to find virtually everything that you want and you can compare alternatives and prices. A shop does give you the opportunity to look at the part (if they have it!) but often they will only have a choice of one. I think the internet is invaluable for parts and research and getting something delivered in a couple of days is brilliant. I'm 64 by the way.

Paper plans by BOATSHED Captain   Posted: 13 days ago
I think that we all have to do a bit of adjustment to the parts of most model's when building them. I cannot think of any model in the past that has not had to have any trimming of part's to fit correctly. I haven't purchased a laser cut model so I wouldn't know about them. But I would also assume that purchasing a paper plan this would also mean that there would need to be some trimming to part's after cutting them out. So if you are buying a plan then why not realise that you would need to trim part's once you have transfered them to wood or what ever you are making it from.I have purchased quite a few plans that were folded and once unfolded and then cut out and started building i have had to trim parts to fit. Why buy a paper plan if you are not happy with the way it is folded and arrives.

M. V. TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Finished the major parts of the hull and am satisfied with the results. Now turned to the superstructure, which has turned into a challenge in its own right. Decided to break the structure down into decks and concentrate on each deck individually; before “rolling them up” into the complete structure. Also decided to make the central “core” first and complete, before adding the curved frontispiece containing the forward bulwarks. This would allow all the detail between the two such as windows, doors and portholes to be accurately made and positioned. The structure from the first deck upwards was made removable to gain access to the internal systems of this working model. The lovely flowing curves, which attracted me to the vessel initially, proved a pain to reproduce. The bends around the front corners required making each deck front separately and then gently bending heated styrene around a former to reproduce. There is much opportunity for hurling! Added a L shaped strip around the front of each deck, so there is something firm to glue the front bulwarks to. Was concerned that without something like that the individual deck shields would never line up properly. Similarly added styrene U channel along the deck edges to give a surface to which the shield side rails could be fitted. This also replicates the vertical deck edge panels that are evident in pictures. Felt this would also make the structure more robust, enabling it to be removed and refitted without damage.

Another model shop to close. by marky Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
you would probably have been a Harburn hobbies man ,which is still going strong ,because I was a wee boy back then the 2 woman who I thought as old would probably have been in their 50s I think they were modellers they had a great knowledge and I remember drawers upon drawers filled with every decal that was imaginable shelves full of Airfix and Keilkraft kits they also stocked exotic American kits by Aurora ,I remember one of my brothers buying Frankenstein ,Dracula etc with glow in the dark parts.

Brass Fittings by circle43nautical Commander   Posted: 18 days ago
Wow! That site has some unique parts that I've been hunting for. Thank you!

Planking complete! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Finished “Costa” planking today and have put in most of the edge strip (need more strip, model shop Friday!). Jobs to do before I start the superstructure, finish laying out the RC components, fit rudder parts, make battery tray etc. Put in a 1/4 square strip around deck opening to prevent water ingress. Couple of coats of resin inside radio bay, 1 more outside, sand and prime. Sand, stain and yacht varnish deck. One question on a water pick-up as using a water cooled ESC! Outlet will be in the transom, does it matter where the pick-up is located?

Brass Fittings by bilzin Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
I don't know if this is of interest to other modellers, but I was trawling through Ebay's wares when I found this supplier and, on a whim, decided to once again try my hand at using etched brass parts. As you might see, not exactly the biggest of fittings, but they really test the patience and skill. Also in one of the photos is the brass bending tool I use and the supplier can be found at http://stores.ebay.co.uk/models- style='background-color:yellow;'>parts-shop?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

Paper plans by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
If you are buying plans off E Bay chances are they are photocopies. Folding would not alter a straight line. I agree ironing under brown paper and storing in a tube works well. Paper is not a very stable medium and any plan will likely change slightly due to the moisture content. To be accurate you need measurements together with a ruler on the plan so that you can make any adjustments. I have always treated such plans more as guides rather than accurate representations and will adjust the pieces I make to fit. Shipyards used to employ fitters who did exactly this. Probably why many recent kits use laser cut parts with plans that show how the bits fit together. Good plans are not cheap. I bought plans for the Titanic at 1:96 from Dr Haan for about £200. Came on 12 sheets (12' x4') all produced as original line drawings and packaged in a large cardboard tube. The professional photo copies we had done for the frame outlines showed that the process was not 100% accurate and added 0.5mm to some parts.

Sea Queen Prop Shaft by AndyG009 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 21 days ago
Boat is still pile of its parts. Moving motor to rear, I thought that would increase the shaft angle, though it will shorten the length of the shaft? The Sea Queen is I think 46", kit, overlander 5045, 6250 mAh 3S LiPo, Fusion hawk HV 60 esc (not sure but this might be better with 80 or 100), [expect power about 400W], prop 45 / 50 / 55 mm (not sure which to start with, might start with 45 mm). Been looking at a shaft from Deans models.

Some more hull sheeting and keel by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
This morning has seen an hour or so adding some more hull sheeting, tidying up the hole for the prop shaft and making the keel. Next decision is whether to add the keel prior to glass clothing the hull or after? My thinking is add before clothing, also fitting the prop shaft, done balsa infil between the 2 keep parts then glass cloth the whole hull for a good neat strong finish. Will add some more sheeting later once this lot has set and has been trimmed to accept next pieces.