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>> Home > Tags > parts

Tinplate submarine motors more toys than models but I like em by marky Commander   Posted: 2 days ago
the fear of losing bodily parts was enough to keep us away ,changed days i remember him having bottles of meths and matches in the bedroom for the engine which powered a workshop with a small circular saw a power hammer and other potentialy lethal tools no health and safety in these halceon days ,next time i see him will have to ask what happened to it knowing him it will be up in his loft

Tinplate submarine motors more toys than models but I like em by marky Commander   Posted: 2 days ago
another wonderful work of art . is the sphere stainless steel ?,like the Meccano ,memories of a lost childhood my older brother had a huge box of the stuff with a mammod engine and me and my brothers couldnt touch it if we did the threat of losing parts of the anatomy or death was there to stop us

propshafts by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Roy, to dispel any possible confusion; by 'double jointed' I mean the true Cardan link. Which is in 3 parts connected by 2 UJs. Invented by an Italian mathematician and engineer several centuries ago to transfer rotation from one axial shaft line / level to a different (within reason) line without using gears. They inevitably create more friction by applying more side pressure to both input and output shafts, thus more wear on the motor output bearing and the tube input bearing 🤔 Plus friction and rattling/grinding generated in two 'out of line' UJs. If, as they should be, your motor and prop shaft are in (near) perfect alignment you don't need a Cardan! My maxim is 'less flexibility - more alignment' 😉 I like the coupling in the pic; called Stegkupplung in German, don't know the English for that😉 They are flexible but not floppy and totally silent👍 I once made the mistake (laziness🤔) of using a Graupner Cardan to couple up a geared Decaperm to the shaft in my Sea Scout. Never ever again 😡 After the first trials I took it apart and modded the motor mount properly. The original motor (perfectly fitted by my Dad) was a Taycol Target - the one I have recently modded for controllable forward and reverse. That will now be used in an ancient Billing Fish cutter inherited from an Aunt. Cheers Doug 😎

3d printing by Midlife306 Admiral   Posted: 10 days ago
Here's another I prepared earlier, I found the file for it on Thingiverse, unfortunately the file made a boat 300mm long, so I printed all the parts at 200% size👍 I've got all the running gear for it now except for the water jacket for the brushless motor, come on China, get your finger out! Cheers Wayne

Guestbook Post by Tooley Seaman   Posted: 12 days ago
Hi - I'm new to building - I have purchased MMM "Canning". I hope I can get some tips and know how from the many members on this site. - I have cut many parts from cardboard as templates. Looks like I have to build rudder and place motor in position before too long. Any advice gratefully received - thanks. Paul - Australia

3d printing by rolfman2000 Commander   Posted: 12 days ago
Wow Wayne. You've come a long way since a try something different day. If I have missed something, please, what machine are you using ? Is it one that a normal human being can afford ? Those parts for your LCM are looking pretty good. I , as I am sure others are seriously impressed with your work so far. Keep the reports coming in, we are loving them. Best wishes, Dave W 😊

3d printing by Midlife306 Admiral   Posted: 12 days ago
Hehe, the lower hull is split into 12 chunks, 2 on the pic above, the front ramp is in 9 pieces, the upper hull is loads, the orlecan guns 7 parts each, etc etc etc At least the cabin printed in one piece... Finished by Xmas, yes, just not sure which one😂 Cheers Wayne

ESC POWER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Oh yeh! Every picture tells a story! Had we known that at the beginning we would have missed out on an interesting debate 😉 Looks like you triggered the ESC's thermal cut-out. Lucky it wasn't permanently damaged. MIL Standard 217 Handbook for calculating MTBF (Mean Time Between Failure) lists the two top Stress Factors as Environment - Over-temperature and Exceeding rated Voltage - Over-volts. 🤔 After that comes Component Count - the more parts the more likely it is that one will go PHUT when you need it 😡 During my recently ended career I had a lot to do with MTBF for naval ship systems, and the associated FMECA - Failure Mode Effect And Cause Analysis! Lesson learned!? We all learn from our mistakes and those of others - I hope😉 Have fun with the new ESCs.👍 Don't get any speeding tickets 😉 Cheers Doug 😎 PS having a second power supply in the system more than doubles the MTBF. BTW: Where do you buy your 4.6 cell LiPos !?😲

Looking for a Sea Queen by canabus Commander   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi Rolf Hope ewe are successful in you bid. Other than the paint the main area of problem is the old IC engine area with fuel getting in the wood. As for cheap parts, Hobbyking. Radios, brushless motors, ESCs, batteries and props. The boat is big, so a motor in the 50mm diameter with about a 50mm 2 blade prop. We will to see what happens and maybe a few posts with pics(we love pics), good luck. Canabus

Thames River Police Launch by Northumbrian Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Dave W I hope this helps if not let me know & I will take more pictures i was able to put a high deck in because of the size of the hull it might be difficult to do this with the smaller hull take a look on SLEC they do the River Police Launch (last picture)it appears to to be risen at the front to take the motor etc The Vintage Model Boat range are now being produced by SLEC Ltd. All our kits come with all parts cut by CNC router or laser, plus all the necesary strip wood is included, along with building instructions and plan. The River Police Launch has been based on the old Veron Kit from the 1960's that we all loved at that time. The model is not a scale model but embraces the boat design of that era. The kit is now fully laser cut so all parts are pre-cut and most of the parts are now made out of high quality ply, so obtaining a good finish is easier to achieve. The model can be powered by a 7.2 volts standard buggy battery pack or ic power of .5-1.5 cc engines which is not in the kit, also we have not included any running fittings as we feel a lot of modellers will have or would like to choose for themselves, but we can supply these fittings if required.

Stabilit Express by Midlife306 Admiral   Posted: 22 days ago
I think those doublers will need explosives to get them off... I've hit a bit of a roadblock with the big K7, I need to get Donald built up so I can position the steering wheel & dash correctly, the animatronic resin upper torso & arms I bought came with no instructions or info on what servos to use. I got some micro servos & they didn't fit, Dremel out & all fits now but I'm now struggling with connecting the servo arm to the rotating neck. I'll suss it out eventually but I need a rest. I've been doing bits on my 1/12 scale K7 in the background, if all goes well it should be ready for paint in a couple of weeks. As normal I've been waiting for parts to arrive from China, the brushless motor & esc arrived today for the blue rigger, I can make a start on that soon.. I've just finished printing the parts for the cabin for a Springer tug hull I got from Sonar & I've just started printing the first parts of a WW2 landing craft, its 1/16 scale nearly a metre long, I guess I'll be making a tank for it when it's completed. Then there's the Robbe Diabolo, on the instructions it says to use self tapping screws to hold the plastic dual rudders in place. No good to me as I've upgraded to dual aluminium rudders, these buggers need bolts! Trouble is the waterproof electronics box is used as a doubler for the central transom, when it's glued into place there isn't any room to access where the rudder bolts come through the doublers, ohhh the joy of problem solving.... So I'm keeping busy but my butter is spread a bit too thin. Cheers Wayne

Sea Queen refurbishment by canabus Commander   Posted: 22 days ago
Hi Dave M CAD and 3D printers would be very handy reproducing old parts for old boats which are no longer available because the company has gone out of business. Start up a small business to save old boat fittings!!!! Oh, a 3D scanner would save some time. Canabus

Sea Queen refurbishment by colinhubbard Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Hi Doug and Chris, Well good question ? So I rang the local fiber glass moulders to see what they had supplied me, as no label on the jar. It is styrene, and I was told to add 10 parts resin to 1 part styrene. And add Hardner/activator as normal before use or spray activator over the coated area, that is the way I did it, and it works. I think it took about 1 hour to be touch dry, but I left overnight before recoating. Apparently this mix is sprayable using a high pressure low volume spraygun. ONLY USE ACETONE TO REMOVE RESINS AND CLEAN TOOLS AND BRUSHES, DO NOT THIN WITH ACETONE. Best of luck Colin.

Phantom by Tica Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 28 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 28"/1000g Phantom Single Propellor (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a Turnigy D2836 1100kv (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through HK 30 A Boat ESC ESC - Comments: Bought it as partly build, and had to take it more or less apart to make it straight. Used a PU glue for the first set of planking, what a mess but it's strong. First trails on water showed that the balance was wrong so have to re-arrange the electronics. Unfortunately the trails also revealed that I had missed something with the sealing (my wife used the same materials for her Classic without any problems) so first of all I'll have to strip parts of the mahogany plating down and redo it :-( before I'll do any thing more on this model.

Denatured Alcohol by octman Commander   Posted: 29 days ago
Thanks Dave, I will do a build blog when the model is finished. It is a Jenny by Aero naut. It is supposedly a simple model to make, and so far it is proving to be so, except for a few parts of the construction which are not very well explained in the instructions. If there is the possibility of misinterpreting some instruction, guess which method I use? It's only when I get to the next stage that I find I have gone wrong! I do read the instructions first but some parts are, to me at least, unclear. I have been able to overcome the problems I have created, although the model will only be 99.99% as per the plan. I have some photos of the build so far but not a complete reference. Chris