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Model Boats Website Team
October 2018: 5 people September 2018: 13 people August 2018: 5 people July 2018: 8 people June 2018: 8 people May 2018: 7 people April 2018: 24 people March 2018: 13 people February 2018: 8 people January 2018: 9 people
Hi peter, Wow! Price has gone up since I bought mine! But it IS good, I'm very happy with it. With the really really cheap ones I'm always a bit sceptical of the fine control, accuracy and concentricity etc. These are even more important when working on very very small parts - aren't we always!? Afraid the only book I have on lathe work for model builders is in German. Must be similar books over there!? Try searching Amazon. BTW: I hope you meant 'The Bee's Knees' and not the 'Dogs Breakfast'! 😲 Re 'pestering friends'; You CAN'T pester real friends! 😉 I'm sure they'd be very glad to help and advise. If not; they ain't friends 🤔 Cheers, Doug 😎
The Veron F.P.B does appear to be a very rare model and I feel £300 would be a reasonable price especially when you take into consideration how much a modern day manufacturer would want. Just look at prices for Deans Marine models, mainly their Vosper M.T.B. which is a lot smaller. Also Veron kits seem to have been overlooked and the only model that is easy to obtain is the Slec version of their 26inch River Police Launch. Phil Smith was a great designer of boats and aircraft . I sold my Veron RTTL in the mid 1990s and my fleet today consists of one original Sea Commander, one 34 inch Crash Tender , both of which I restored, an Italeri PT109 and two RTR fast electrics. TOP TIP for anyone who buys your F.T.B- trace around the parts and use them to build the model while keeping the kit intact. I do this with my Keil Kraft control line aeroplanes. B😁😎oaty
This build is proving to be much more difficult than I had expected. 😤 I think I started this project thinking that all of the parts were ready to fit and glue. As I went on, it became clear that this is not the case. Due to this, and as detailed in the earlier post, I have had to break down the glue joints of the hull frame, and reposition after deepening some of the assembly slots. I have re-assembled the bulkheads, stringers etc. and then started to fit the side skins. This has proven to be the most difficult task so far. You need six arms. After several failures, removal of all of the fixing tape and then starting again, they finally started to look reasonable. I watched a time lapse video on you tube and he seems to do it fairly easily. Oh well. 🤔 Now that I was happy with the fit of the sides, it was time to start on the bottom skins. I started by trying to form chamfers along the keel centre joints so that they look reasonable. Then I once again applied tape to hold them in position whilst glueing with my other three hands, I wish. This only took two attempts. I must be getting better. I still have most of my hair also. Next, I tried to mount the motors onto the angled bulkhead. The front location was very loose so I made a couple of thin silver steel rings to improve the fit. They work very well. 😊 Next job was to fit and align the prop shafts. I decided to make these solid joints and avoid the use of universal joints. The first motor went straight on with perfect shaft alignment. The second was not so good. After two hours of fiddling with a packer, I finally achieved perfect alignment. Next job was to give good joint strength and make the hull water tight. Rightly or wrongly I use a lot of glue to give that perfect seal. I used epoxy for all of the skin inner joints and Stabilit for the outer seams and joints. I used the Stabilit around the shafts as well which looks a little messy at the moment, but I will tidy all of this up next. I will paint the inner Stabilit with white paint to hide a little. This weekend I will do a water test to ensure it is water tight.😱 I think after that I will fit all of the electrics, servo and speed controller. Then I will spray the hull and the main deck prior to fixing together. I would be interested to know what others think about when to paint, before or after assembly, especialy regarding the hull. Enough for now.🤐 I will try to speed up the build a bit now as I am expecting the new 46" Crash Tender to arrive soon. Wood!!! Love it.😊
My wee red boat after a rub down and a file/sand on the steel keel. This morning I painted the red with HMG enamel and got the green mixed in the same make enamel by my wonderful chap at Kett's Auto Paints. The mast came in two parts, so I did a slight scarf and glued it. When the joint is well set, I'll make a splint and set it in prior to a rub down and a good waxing. The steel (tinplate) parts came with the predictable rust, but with my selection of scrapers and chisels made of broken and worn Swiss files I was able to scrape most of it off back to reasonable shiny steel. The out of shapeness needed only a clout with a cold chisel type of bodywork tool in the right places to restore it to original shape. Loops were filed to lose most of their rust, but not replaced. They'll be Vaselined as a form of anti rust, waterproofing. I have some new 1.3mm cord coming from Caldercraft. I just hope I can remember how it was rigged. I ain't great with knots. The sails were absolutely filthy with some sort of oil based grime, but my dear bride sorted them out with Vanish and a good hand wash. Pics of those tomorrow. I love this stuff.! Martin
Hi all for the second blog report on the schnellboot I am going to go over the rudder a propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat, these were made to be above the water line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts. which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel) and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum powder mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The fourth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I must ask for some help could anyone advise me on the length of propeller shafts, I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft, but port and starboard will have to be longer. and I also need advice on selecting the motors, I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.
Hi all this is my first blog, last year I post my intention to do a project about an RAF D boat that my Father served on and as a precursor to that build That I was going to do this S/E boat as the hull design is shared by both, and as plastic kit modeller the kit great the first stage was to put together the decks and superstructure as normal, with the exception of all the bits that would be easily broken as most kit aircraft modellers aerials and guns tend to brake ,so long ago I got into the habit of making these out brass rod or bar using a mini drill and a set of needle files, holding the drill in my left hand and the files in my right, when started this I saw the number of stanches I needed so I came across this little beauty a mini bead lathe it is a great bit of kit and not expensive less than £50 and plenty of types and accessories available so all the stanches aerials hand rails, gun rails, horn, and some of the components for the rudder and tiller were made on this lathe. so good time being had in my first radio control boat. the next post will show all the parts for the rudder/tiller setup ( I have reposted blog because I think I did not do it properly first time round)
Hi all, just won an outboard motor which is exactly like the one on a plastic day boat I had as a kid. Alas, it ran away on Lake Vyrnwy on our first Welsh holiday and that was the end of that. This one has only one wire and it feels like the motor is loose, so I will have to get a slitting saw in the minidrill and carefully slice the thing in half to get to them, but it'll give me the chance to lubricate the gears, etc. If it needs new ones, I have brass bevels from a stash of MRRC slot racing parts. Ain't nought can't be fixed. Beauty of this motor is it says it's made in England. Looks like a Mercury 75 "Tower of Power". Nice! Martin Edited to say nearly 60 years old! The motor. I'm older.
Thanks for the information. Following Doug’s lead I came up with an idea for a scale fluorescent light fixture to install on the pilot house ceiling. I have odds & ends in my spare parts boxes that I can use to make the fixture, complete with a reflector & transparent pebble-surface scale diffuser. Even though the fixture won’t be visible I still want to achieve nice, even light in the pilot house with minimal shadows. The fixture design is still on the mental drawing board at this point but I’m reasonably sure it’ll work in the tug’s pilot house. If it doesn’t, however, I’ll definitely look into your suggestion. Thanks for reading my post & for your helpful advice, too. Pete
No plans. No fittings. Just the parts I have been able to glue-up here. The containers and toys were added to see if they might be used for freight. These General Freighters are used for multiple cargos but I have no Cranes. Thinking of just adding hatches with tie downs. Any suggestions? Approximately what scale?
[Score: 7/10] 36"/1100g 4 C's Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 10mins Twin Propellors (2 Blade X Type 25mm) Direct Drive to a still thinking about it. (2 Blade X Type) Powered by NiCad (7.2v) 5Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through HobbyWing for two motors (5Amps) ESC - Comments: just finished the 1930 CC runabout, bought 18 years ago, bought this dumas model cause i thought the instructions would be similar, which they are not. wrong Numbers for parts, wrong instructions, or non for a piece. i guess they want you to buy there DVD for $20. also building the hull the wood split, and did all kinds of things. had to come up with my own way to cover the hull.
Even batches of supposedly the same colour from the same maker can vary amazingly. I've seen this with my own eyes. The usual trick was to mix batches together so shades varied from ship to ship. I'd just go with whatever takes your fancy as long as it looks ok. Remember weathering affects colours strongly so even different parts of decks etc can appear a different shade. Don't be too concerned about the RIGHT colour. Not many people would spot or even know the difference anyway. Regards John👍😎 PS these make a big difference LOL
Hello mate don't bother with any downloads just give me an address on the private message service and l will send a nice Chrisp copy of the wave princess plan l have. There are assembly instructions on the MB website with a list of Materials/parts l wouldn't bother it's been copied so many times it's almost unintelligible. Anyways good luck with the building and if l can give you any help on size or materials ( my princess is a 30 odd year old kit) l will try and help. Good luck Jim.
The majority of the parts were made on a Prusa i3 MK2S. Made from PLA and printed at 0.075 mm layer height at 200^C hot end temp and 60^C bed temp. A few were done on my TronXY X5S at the same temperatures but with a layer height of 0.15mm.
Hi Colin Thank you for your inquiry. I live in Kenilworth, Warwickshire, I am looking for £200 o.n.o It is a great model. You would need your own receiver and transmitter. The other parts are all there but would need checking over before sailing.