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>> Home > Tags > pilot boat

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Air boat by Purser1944 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 7 days ago
Thanks am going to make another one which will incorporate a pusher prop . At least that’s my winter project when all my fleet have been dry docked etc, did one last night ( 42 inch pilot boat ) a V.T. Nelson. Only another 14 to go.

Equipment wire by MouldBuilder Captain   Posted: 19 days ago
I am currently working on a few projects at a time. One boat, a Police Launch, has several working lights that I have aded as extras. I have quite a bit of available room so I have used 7/0.2 equipment wire for all of the LED`s. For my Pilot Boat, I have very little room to run the wires and so will have to reduce drastically. I cannot seem to find smaller wire which leads me to believe that I am looking in the wrong places. Please can I ask for advice as to which wire size I should be looking for and where to look for it. I like to colour code the wires also to make fault tracing easier, so multiple colours would be an added bonus. Thanks. Peter.😊

Old outboard motor... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
GRP dinghy, ancient outboard separated into it's halves. The dinghy was made by a company that had done a Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter which a friend was working on before he died suddenly. He decided that he wouldn't use the dinghy and gave it to me. I was thinking of using it for a mini steam plant as a river launch, but that's too far in the future. I think I may have a suitable dolly for the boatman. Martin

Darby One Design hydro... by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
As I have never seen one up close I don't know. They only fly inside the camp, but some of the pilots fish in my local lake which is behind the camp, and we chat about models in general and they will sometimes offer help in getting my boat down to the water. They offer advice on my radio systems as the old vintage stuff I have can cause interference. So they advised me to use 2.4ghz here. Next time I meet with one of them I will ask about the engine details. Cheers Colin.

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hello, Doug: Out of curiosity, did you remove the molded-on plastic ladder rungs from inside of the mast to gain more space for wires? Seeing your finished mast has shown me that it’s best to keep the original nav light locations. Having all 6 lights on the main mast will make it look too cluttered. With all of the lights switched on it’ll look like a light saber is jutting out of the pilot house roof. Do you know if there are standards governing the horizontal spacing of navigation lights? There should be, otherwise I’d think the lights could tend to overlap & look like one big light, especially in fog. BTW, the cables you added to the mast antennas look great. The smooth curve of the cables & the weather boots at the antenna connections add a lot of realism. Well done!👍🏻 Speaking of details, do you know if tugboats carry anchors? If so, what type? As far as I know the US Coast Guard requires every powered vessel to have at least one anchor. I see no reason why tugboats would be exempt from this rule. I’m glad you mentioned using a Tamiya sanding sponge as a means of removing the factory-applied lettering. There’s a model railroad technique I’ve used successfully where an ordinary pencil eraser & window cleaner are used to remove lettering. I’m sure it would work on my boat but I might not live long enough to get it finished. Shortly after I got the boat I ordered a cloth American flag & scale Plimsoll markings from BECC. Sadly BECC has gone out of business. Another good supplier goes around the bowl & down the hole. Sad. Regarding the winch again, your comments tell me that I may have misled you into thinking that my boat has a winch. It doesn’t, but I did say I’m planning to scratchbuild one. In fact, I’m going to sketch one out right after I post this message. Thanks, Pete

Pilot Boat by MouldBuilder Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Wednesday did not go too well. I used a new method to hold the skins in shape but could not line them up as I would like with the stringers. The keel also looked a little up and down which was going to hinder the fitting of the bottom skins. I made the decision to carefully break some of the joints and re-bed the keel in place. I have broken it up and found a bit of a mystery. I have adjusted the keel which now sits in a much better place. The problem I have found, and possibly the cause of most of my alignment woes, is that the Transom seems to be sitting about 1.5mm low which in turn sets the heel too high (see picture). The stringers seem to agree with this as when I put a straight edge along them the last joint seems to drop. I will reset the Transom in line with the keel which in turn will lift its feet above the jig. I cannot explain why this is but I think my plan will solve the problem. I just hope that I am not adding to the problems later on. I cannot see why this should be. I thought it might be my baseboard not being flat, so I rotated the model 180 degrees on the board with the same result. I will try again to set the model in alignment and hope that the skins fit better. All of the evidence points to this being the source of my problems. We will see.😤

Brooklyn Finally Completed! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Mornin' Doug, That sounds like an idea! But, as much as the Brooklyn weighs. I think the best thing to do. Is get someone else to carry it! I have a wagon I'm going to cut a notch into. That way I can pull it to the pond! Now, How do I get it down to the ground floor? It's always something with these models..... I think I'll get a smaller boat! Maybe a pilot boat......

Pilot Boat by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Thanks for that explanation looking forward to seeing the skins ,I hope it goes well

Pilot Boat by MouldBuilder Captain   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Mike. The bulkheads are all slotted as is the keel. The front of the keel is also located in a slot in the base board and so therefore all of the bulkheads are automatically held square in both directions. It has been glued and on a trial run, the skins fit well. I have been as careful as possible. The manufacturer has thought about assembly. The jig is not card. It is a strong sheet of 3mm Depron. If you see the picture above, you can see the slots for the bulkheads and the centre front slot for the keel. It does seem to keep everything in place very well.😊 I am going to try to fit the skins tomorrow. I wll report back if I don`t do myself an injury trying.🤓

Pilot Boat by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Agree right down the line Mike 👍

Pilot Boat by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Is there anything that holds the bulkheads at 90 degrees to the base? I assume you fastened this base card template flat to a wooden building board otherwise there is a danger that the bulkheads could be out of true hence my comment - bulkheads at 90 degrees. Its also important that it stays in the jig while the skins are applied. Is the structure already glued? as my comments may be too late

Pilot Boat by MouldBuilder Captain   Posted: 3 months ago
Thanks Doug and Mike. I will use this when I attempt a scratch build next year. I have added a picture of the hull frame in the setting jig. It is surprisingly strong. I removed it only for the pictures.😊

Pilot Boat by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Excellent example Mike 👍👍 and a neat job. Cheers, Doug 😎

Pilot Boat by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Here's a picture of the building board I am using on on a small cabin cruiser, I hope this explains the principle. The excess lugs on each bulkhead are cut off after skinning.

Pilot Boat by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi MouldBuilder, You can do it. Just look at the instructions! Use the building board. That come with the kit! Take your time. No need to rush! Cheers, Ed