I would say steam would be your best bet, you would need to make some kind of frame to hold it to the correct shape and a steam box for it to sit in while the steam softens up the timber. I modified a wallpaper steamer to do something like this and it works a treat with trial and error. How it's done is knock up a box in timber large enough to accommodate the item to be steamed , drill some vent holes in the roof of the box to allow some of the steam to vent out and drill one hole at the base of the box large enough for the hose from the wallpaper stripper to fit through and away you go. You could also use this method for steaming planking strips Ron
im back on the job again now ( fingers crossed ) no more flare ups . have got the stand for the ships boat built, varnished and fixed to the boat now, i had to change position of the fixing point for the ships boat because of the sail control wire. I have also got the oars for the ships boat made and given them there first coat of varnish, these were made using some 3mm pine dowel and a scrap piece of 4x2 beech planking strip. have now started on the canvas cover for the ships boat. Ron
Much better than the hull of the ancient Billing fish cutter Gina 2 I've just started to restore and convert. Took the deck out last night to reveal the awful hull planking 🤔 Good luck, will watch with interest 👍 Cheers, Doug 😎
Hi Zdneck Just looking at that build of the NAXOS. Had a good look at all of the images and from what I can see, the frames/Keel does not seem to be made from plywood. It looks solid like maybe basswood or similar. Can you give me any pointers on the type of wood best for framing? I would think that even though Ply may be stronger, it will be quite hard to fair when applying planking. Only my thoughts.
just about finished only a few deck fittings to add i used a brushless 1700kv motor & 70amp esc it runs well on a 3 cell 5000 mah lipo the planking is made from old wooden blinds the only outlay was for the motor & esc the rest i had it is marvelous what you collect over the years my next build will be an airboat i have found a motor from a WOT 4 airplane 😉
R/C gear going in on a 2 piece plank, so it'll fit through the hatches. Some deck planks going on, king plank too. Coamings to help water proof from splash. These are Foamex, completely waterproof stuff. The hatches and houses will be fitted with magnets eventually. The planking is NOT a la yacht. For some reason Dan Hatcher laid deck planks like workboats and motor boats, parallel to the King plank, not the covering boards. Believe me when you've lived on one of these and put every pot you have under the deck leaks when it rains, you know the pattern of the laid deck! Rear deck half just rested on as the R/C gear is yet to be finished. Waiting for some more allly tube to guide the steering cables and braided line for the sheet control. Steering servo coming this afternoon. Martin
Eveni' Marky, Re Tights! What's handy will surely depend on the Missus or ..? 😉 Frankly I would dispense with the tights altogether (the Missus may of course have a different opinion😁), more trouble than they are worth and don't contribute much or anything to the construction if the basis was soundly built. It only costs you more resin to fill in the mesh of the tights. If you must use tights then the higher the denier the better (at least 40 - 50) anything less will have a very open mesh and contribute virtually nothing to the hull strength, the Missus will explain denier to you This seems to me to be a 'hangover' from 50s style construction when glass fibre was more expensive relatively speaking. I tried it back then with a scratch built Sopwith Camel fuselage and it was a total disaster. Instead planking with 1/32 balsa and a thin resin coat worked a treat. Nowadays, 30 years or more, I use glass fibre tissue instead; density and therefore strength imparted to the hull is more even cos it don't stretch like tights! Whatever, have fun, and greetings to the Better Half (tights donator!) Cheers Doug 😎 PS: if you feel you need tights😲 (or FG tissue) fit the rubbing strakes after this, and after sanding the tights / tissue to shape. Otherwise the strakes will just get in the way and be a nuisance to sanding and will get damaged / deformed. PPS: shame about the amber nectar, my commiserations 🤔 My current tipple is more tawny port colour; a rather nice Lagavulin 😜
Hi Doug, What a beautiful model. Whose? Keep seeing things differently. The 14pdr gune set up on the main turrets on that model seems a bit different from the photo I have of a rear turret. I will stay with what I have done and say a prayer or three. Have started on anchors, see pic. The shot you gave me of the bow shows the ab nchors very well. They were huge! Don't look too closely at my pic. There is all sorts of cleaning up to do! I am surprised the anchor chains seem to be hauled across the deck planking. Nelson had steel runways for the chains to run across.
Thanks Donnieboy it has been 28degrees c here today perfect painting weather. I can now start assembly while waiting for the glue to dry on the ships boat planking, been that warm on my shed I managed to get two planks each side today . Normally have to wait 12hrs between planks. Ron
Progress at last, but have no info for focsle arrangement, winches etc. Assume would be similar to Nelson's, even though twenty years previous? From what I can see, her guardrails were mounted on the deck planking rather than outside on the steel
Ships boat continued It's coming along now almost finished planking the sides just a couple of planks to fit and can then plank the stern. It's certainly been a learning curve doing my first clinker hull and at this size , there has been a few mistakes but that's modelling .
Ships boat continued Hi all the planking is coming along slowly have just attached the fourth plank on either side. Thanks to hammer's excellent clinker build and advice I am starting to get the hang of this. The only problem I am having at the moment is working out the length of the oars , I have some 5mm square section in walnut I thought of machining down to make the oar shafts but unsure of length as these are not on the plans for the ships boat any advice welcome.
Hi everyone, l checked the planking balsa in the kit and they are all the same length, so when fitting l assume that you should start from the bow end and the next from the stern end and vice versa. Then fill the shorter lengths use a full plank strip and cut small lengths to fill the end gaps? Between us l cannot see what the logic is behind Billing Boats doing this? Both my previous billing boat kits came with planking longer than needed. All very odd. I will ensure that l strengthen the keel as suggested, thanks to all for your help. Frodo l look forward to seeing some photos of your planking once you’ve started. Cheers Richard.