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>> Home > Tags > planking

planking
planked
planks
planking
Sea Hornet by canabus Lieutenant   Posted: 4 hours ago
Hi Jim I will be watching this built very close, as I have built one from original plans and also did the 25% as a future project. Because of the very limited engine and radio hatch, I design them larger, but, you are on the right path. I installed a 28mm brushless motor, 3S 2650mah Lipo battery with a 2 blade 32mm brass prop. I don't think the 25% bigger a one would require any more power as it a rocket. My hatches run down the deck planking lines, the original hatches are only for show. The engine starts from the front seat and finishes at the rear windscreen. I made up the cockpit floors etc. before I skinned the sides, a lot easier, also the floor is split over the keel with the seats one piece. Can-a-bus Canabus

Progress Mark 2 by Pav403 Commander   Posted: 2 days ago
Hello all, So I've managed to get back to somewhere near where I was last time. The frame work is of a slightly thicker Ply (1/4") The Keel is straight, frames are all 100% level and I've now used balsa block for the Bow and Stern to give the planking a bit more support and to assist in getting a better shape at both ends. Fingers crossed I will have the hull build in the next few weeks, I can then get on with Sanding and filling before applying fiberglass and Resin to make the hull solid. Uploaded a few photos to show where I'm at. Good luck with your builds. Dave.

SG&K 1920 Gentlemans Runabout Mk2 by canabus Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi All I have started my redesigned runabout by increasing the length to 860mm. The motor and ESC will move to under the removal dash for better weight balance. Increase the engine hatch to get the Lipo battery, receiver and servo into. This will be hidden by the deck planking and the original hatch size will get it back to scale look. Brushless motor 3639-1100kv,3S battery, 60A car ESC and 37mm 3 blade prop.

Constellation by Jerry Todd Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
This model was started in February of 1999, and has been worked on, at best, in fits and starts. While progress has been made, and it's capable of sailing, it's far from finished. It began as plywood paneling pulled from the walls of my first house and cut into frames. It was to be planked with white pine strips, also scraps from remodeling, but I was distracted by a book. Nasty things books, put all sorts of ideas in your head. I got the idea of making a plug for a mold so I could turn out THREE hulls! One for me, one for sale, and one to be donated to the real ship. To that end, and with the inspiration of the book, instead of planking, I battened the hull and sheathed it with brown paper wet-n-stick packing tape. Let's just say, that wasn't a good idea and leave it at that. A lot of life changes happened; moved to a farm; got unmarried, sold the farm, got an apartment, got a house with a workshop, and 10 years later, recommenced work on the model. I continued on with the original plan for about a day when I shifted gears and decided to glass the "plug" and make it a hull. I proceeded to prep it to that end, but looking back, what I should have done was strip it down the the forms and start again, planking it properly. Instead, I covered the outside with 4oz cloth, filled between the battens with poly resin and glass matting. The images show the model from it's start to it's glassing, though the site won't allow me to dictate the order in which they're presented - sorry for that. The model is of the American sloop of war Constellation launched in 1855, and as she appeared in Naples in 1856 based on a painting of her by Thomas deSimone. She is 1:36 scale; 1 inch = 3 feet. Beam: 13-5/8" (34.6 cm) Length on deck: 61" (154.9 cm) Length between perpendiculars (American): 59-1/8" (150.2 cm) Draft, without ballast keel: 7" (17.8 cm) With 3-1/2" ballast keel: 10-1/2" (26.7 cm) Weight, with ballast: Approx. 100 pounds (45.36 kg) Length over the rig: 95" (241.3 cm) Width over the rig: 30.5" (77.5 cm) ~ Main yard w/o stuns'l booms. Height bottom of keel to main truck, without ballast keel: 65" (165.1 cm) With ballast keel: 69" (175.3 cm) Total Sail Area: 2,807.01 square inches in 17 sails (19.5 sf, 18,110 scm, 1.8 sqm) Working Sail Area: 1,836.1square inches in 13 sails (12.75 sf, 11,845 scm, 1.2 sqm)

Dumas Chris Craft finishing by don6398 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 4 days ago
I completed the Dumas 36" CHRISCraft several years ago. I made sure all of wood planking was completely smooth and minus all dents. I covered the model in 5 oz. fiberglass cloth and cover it with resin/Hardener. The planking immediately shine out. I then did a light sanding and gave it one more coat of resin/hardener. When dried I put some auto wax on it. You can purchase this material in marine stores or a good hardware store. My father and i did this a long time ago a real 22 foot ChrisCraft barrel . We did a small corner of the boat first, you can do the same on the model. We did fiberglass the whole boat so that we didn't have to soak the boat at beginning of the summer

Gentlemans Cruiser by muddy Captain   Posted: 9 days ago
Thanks for the pics Dave M and the info, what a lovely job has been done on the deck planking, now thats a credit to its owner/builder. Do you happen to know what the drive assembly consists of..? Regards Muddy....

Gentlemans Cruiser by muddy Captain   Posted: 10 days ago
Hello, The keel was cut on the 13th of May 2017. Power tools are the secret, i would not like to be without the Proxxon table saw, and or the B&D jigsaw plus a Battery drill, makes life a lot easier. The longest job so far has been the Deck planking, it's more like anger management..lol... Hope this helps, regards Muddy....

Gentlemans Cruiser by muddy Captain   Posted: 10 days ago
Hello, Fitted the combing, the deck , and started the Fore Planking, this time with Mahogany planks (5mm x 1.5mm ) and white wood caulking (0.5mm) mounted vertically. Adding some colour to the motor mounts, and drive chain, makes it easier when final assembly takes place as in electrical wiring. Regards Muddy....

Gentlemans Cruiser by muddy Captain   Posted: 10 days ago
Running gear or furniture.. Once the skeleton or frame was completed it's a good idea to dry fit all the running gear, Drive motors shaft's and prop's, plus the radio gear and battery boxes/trays, and even sound unit locations. Then start the skinning. This hull has very curvy bottom skins, in that they turn from the transom to the bow 90 degrees sharply. Tried some test pieces of vertical grain ply, ( 1.5mm ) but it was the same as horizontal grain.. Skins were placed in as large as pieces as possible at about 45 degrees to the keel, or planking in ply.. Not a pretty sight, but makes life a lot easier. The skins were dry fitted with brass pins first, mainly to assist in the cutting of the skin shape. When the bottom skins were completed and rough trimmed the side skins were applied and these were vertically grained, again makes life a lot easier and they fall onto the stringers, means less brass pins and elastic bands. Not forgetting to drill some 1" holes in the breast-hook and No; 1 former, as i always pour in a little Fibre glass resin to help seal the bow section and add some strength. Regards Muddy....

Shelduck by muddy Captain   Posted: 17 days ago
Installing the Radio gear. Planking the Deck in 6mm x 2mm and .5mm Mahogany vertically used as "Caulking". A lot of brass pins.. !... Lead Keel, about 10lb; in weight. It was supposed to be "Let into" the keel, but a lot of extra work, decided to screw it to the bottom, hoping this would give it more stability having a deeper keel. Regards Muddy ....

Shelduck by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Beooootiful! 👍👍 I'm jealous of your woodworking skills. Seems a shame to cover all that lovely woodwork with paint! 🤔 Tidiest planking I've seen for a long time. Compliments 😊 I guess these last posts are what is called a 'prequel' ??? 😉 Look forward to the video! 😎

Anteo 2 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Hmm! Looking closer I don't see any shaping of the outboard edges of the bulkheads!? 😲 This is essential to do before planking to ensure proper seating (greater glue contact area) of the planks and maintaining the correct hull shape. Use a medium grade sandpaper wrapped around a block of wood ca 2 x 1 and at least as long as the length along 3 adjacent bulkheads. If I've missed some detail please ignore the ramblings of an old man, if not ....! Cheers Doug 😎

Anteo 2 by davecox3 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 18 days ago
Hull now had two layers of planking never done it before but even if I say so it looks very good, have removed the building decks and fitted the motor and rudder servo just waiting for a reduction sprocket and timing belt , the deck is in place and all planked will publish pictures tomorrow onward and upward👍

Shelduck by muddy Captain   Posted: 18 days ago
..Started on the planking, with 3mm x 5mm Obechie strip, leaving a gap in the planks so as one can see whats going on with the alignment of the prop shaft/coupling. Motor mount formed in 2mm Ally and fitted. Planking was completed, not forgetting the bulkhead that overlooks the well deck, this was veneered, as was the Transom. Deck was laid in 1.5mm ply, but when it was all finished, it did not appeal to me at all, don't know why, so this was later planked to give a better sort'of look, although i believe the original full size is a painted deck. My version is now a Stand Off Scale, the dimensions are very close to scale but the finish has a lot of modelers license. Regards Muddy....

Ketch Irene by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Nice technique. Model looking really good. I like the planking Dave