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>> Home > Tags > planking

planking
planked
planks
planking
Gelyce class "Islay" by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi, many years ago I was approached by the man who ran the Chateau Margot delicious wine factory to make a model of Water Pipit, one of the smaller Gelyce class yacht tenders built by Camper and Nicholson. They di some at 50 foot and a few at 38 foot. Currently out there and nicely restored is Islay, which I think may be Water Pipet in a later itteration, since it was once restored and subsequently neglected by Ugo Baravalle, at the time Italy's 5th richest man and a gent who actually offered to show me round his vast collection on Elba very graciously. I never heard from the wine mazn again and so couldn't tap him for a deposit to finance the trip to Italy. Project cancelled, Baravalle apologised to, life went on. Now, I find I would rather like to do the model for myself, with all the lovely golden interior work. To do this, the construction would have to be more like the original steamed timbers and double diagonal planking, rather than my usual 3mm ply bulkheads. So, my question is...has anyone ever built a hull in this way, as a shell, more than a glorified Aerokits/Veron kit? I haven't, so I'm looking for any hints, tricks, warnings you may have. Here's the boat. You can see the appeal. Cheers, Martin

Still Stripping......With Care! by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
I am not posting this as a build update because scraping and sanding is boring…………although I now believe I will eventually finish it. However, I have already found 4 areas with cracks. Whilst I was working on one of the sides a prop shaft fell off…….Just as well it was on its stand and not in the water! Now some of these cracks I suspect will be with filler falling out but there is a lot of filler in some parts anyway. It is coming along, but do I really have to remove every paint layer after the old primer? Surely if it is well sanded some little bits can be left, not large patches just bits in very awkward places…………….please? Other questions Where the Hull sides join the stern should those corners be square or rounded? When I scrapped the paint off most the filler fell out so it is difficult to tell how it was! Should the cracks in the bow planking be filled before sealing and is ordinary filler correct or does it need a ‘resinous mix’……………..? Cheers folks NPJ

Mid Deck by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Now I am in the swing of planking I may as well do all the remaining decks that need planking. Therefore, very much the same procedure as before with a mahogany border, followed by caulking the inside edges of the mahogany border, then cutting the planks roughly to length, and then finally trimming on the disc sander for an exact fit. When all he planks have been dry fitted, they can are removed and glued with aliphatic glue. A couple of days to completely dry then it’s on with the sanding before finishing with sanding sealer I marked all the nail holes using the marking tool I made. This is all on this deck until final finishing which will be done with all the other decks.

Aft cockpit deck by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I first cut the base material to size allowing a card thickness all round for final clearances. The lower deck has a number of features in it that need to be measured. I took dimensions from the plans and marked out the base. Again following the upper deck which has a mahogany boarder I cut and planed a further amount of 6mm x 1.5 strips of material. I started by outlining the mahogany boarders, Some years ago I made a mitring device for picture framing which has come in very handy for doing the corners. Having all the pieces cut they are then glued and temporally pinned in position until set. The next job is to prepare all the edges with black card and then measuring each plank across the width starting from the centre line. I must take into account how the planks sit against main access hatch and the battery hatch opening however, all seems to look good but until each plank is positioned and glued with its caulk divider it’s difficult to tell. When preparing each plank I first cut each piece oversize with wire cutters then using the disc sander I trim square one end, then place in position and mark for final length and finish again on the disc sander giving each plank a nice push fit Because lime planking varies in colour across a batch I numbered each plank across the deck varying the pattern of colours as I cut each to length. Next I cut a number of card pieces to length and start to glue (using Aliphatic glue), plank, followed by card filler across the half width, then repeat the other side. Finally the battery hatch and main access hatch are treated in the same manner. Next comes the finishing , I use a very fine grade on my belt sander (I attach a block on the underside of the main access deck to control the sanding process) to remove the majority of excess irregularities followed by an orbital sander for a fine finish. If there is any staining by the black card residue I simply remove it with a pencil rubber. Next I put the nail holes in again using the jig I made to ensure uniform spacing and then gave a coat of sanding sealer. Final finishing will be done as a complete assembly. Preparation of the side panels is the next process before final assembly

Billing Boats St Canute Update by Richard7 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
Hello everyone, it’s been a while since l made a post about my ongoing model St Canute, mainly due to the heatwave we’ve just been through, however l have just completed laying the decking strips, which l have to admit was going well until the last few strips to the edge, boy oh boy did l struggle. I jumped the instructions as they do say to plank the hull first. At times l just sat there looking at the decking trying to get a reasonable edge and curve. I have attached some photos which some of you professional model makers will spot the errors, but it’s the best l can do so long am pretty pleased with the outcome. I have a question, should l now apply some sanding sealer to the deck strips? l am just a bit worried not to sand the deck strips too much. Any advice would be very much appreciated. I guess now l must start with the hull planking which l am apprehensive about, but hey ho it has to been done. Thanks everyone l will keep you updated from time to time, if anyone out there is also building this Billing Boat st Canute l would love to hear from you. Cheers everyone, Richard.

Leaking Boat! by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Is there a clever way to find where the leak is in a hull? In this instance, boat sat static in water for eight hours and collected some water between compartment ribs in the centre two sections. One of these sections is open and 'getatable' the one next to it has had planking glued down. Leak seems not associated with either the front or back end and certainly not with drive shaft tubes. No visible signs on the outside of the hull even using magnifying glass. Depressed by the thought that may have to strip all the hull paintwork off! Any ideas? NPJ

Cabin/Superstructure by Donnieboy Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
It will be a lovely boat.I like your planking of the deck.

Hull + Deck by muddy Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
Once the hull was finished, with planking on the base and ply skins on the sides, made a start on the deck.. Decided to go for Walnut 5 x 3mm with pear .5mm as caulking. Quickly found out it was bad choice, as each pin/nail hole had to be pilot drilled. Using a bradawl just split the Walnut planks. It may have been better using 6 x 3mm for planks.. And what with this weather, not at all helpful in the quickness of construction. The spray strips were added next to the chine and at deck level, plus a couple of reinforcement strips along the sides, i refer to em' as bumper bars. The next thing was the hatch combing, this is .8mm ply with a 3mm square top edging, hoping to improve water ingress improvement. Regards Muddy

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 4 by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Added some strength to the Bow also act as glue points for the bow strips of ply or planking. Created a template of the first section of ply to go on, thought I would mark out the rudders, prop-shaft supports and shaft exit points. Unfortunately due to cost restrictions I cannot afford to buy or have the facilities to make the correct layout of brackets and supports for the shafts, which I feel may not be up to the job when coping with the high outputs of brushless motor, (still that my excuse) So to use my poor-mans prop-shafts (with integral support skeg) I have had to reconfigure the layout slightly but will keep the original 3 prop-shafts and 3 non-scale rudders, but may shape them as per the originals.

Cabin detail Pt 1 by colsey Apprentice   Posted: 2 months ago
hi its colin here again sorry to bother you, between the planking you said you used black card, i can only get black card i A4 size at 300 gsm, is that what you used, or can you tell me where i can get the same as you used, thank you for your help, colin

The Saga of the Cabin Roof or - Arrrgh! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Did you mean me John? Or Mike? I had considered planking but my mahogany planks are very very thin about 0.5mm x 5mm wide, and I would still have had the problem of 'warping on' a plywood base skin. So I persevered with the mahogany veneer and I'm happy now with the result of making it in two pieces. matching the edges for the centre line joint took the most time 🤔 More power to your plank cutters Gents👍

Part1 research information by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Deck From the construction hand book:- Decking shall be single layer of mahogany plywood, approximately 9/16 inch thick, installed in general accordance with plan, BuShips No. PT486-S1106-411193, subject to development of satisfactory material. Note. I have seen photos of some perhaps later ELCO 80s with planked decks. Planking 62 degrees hull planking angle not 45 degrees as many have used. stern transom at 12 degree angle approximately. Prop shafts of real boat. All three propellers turned in the same direction clockwise looking from rear, not the greatest configuration for a model boat. propshaft angles are around 10 degrees. The centre shaft is at a larger angle to the side ones. The centre prop shaft angle is 11 degrees and the wing prop shafts are 9 degrees. Using these angles may restrict your propeller selection. The centre shaft appears from hull further aft than the side shafts but the propellers are all at the same distance from the stern or transom.

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 1 by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I hope to be able to mix two method of skinning the boat sheet ply on aft as the aft frames (6-12) have minimal curvature and diagonal planking on the bow frames (1-6).

Robbe Smaragd by East-RN Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Doug. Yes, I plan to take some pictures/video and post them. Primarily, I was hoping to help NPJ with his request for original plans etc. I realise it was last October when he requested them. I have made some changes to the main sheet control, planking and windows on the Cabin and an auto bailout on the cockpit wells. He may be interested in those as well. I have not met any other owners of this Classic model. It would be good to meet up with other owners and get them Cruising across a reasonable sized stretch of water (Not Racing). I have sailed and raced Dingy's and Catamarans, and this model is as close the real thing as I have experienced, and a good trainer for anyone learning how to manipulate and set sails, as well as use of the rudder. Keep Upright 😁😎 Ray

Rear Deck assembly –(upper tow deck) by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I propose to make the rear deck and the deck which carries the tow hook all as a complete piece that lifts out in one. Although its going to be in one piece the full assembly still has to be made as separate components so first job is to cut the individual panels again using the card inserts to make sure the end assembly has clearance. The tow hook deck is the first piece to be dealt with and epoxied as a sub assembly. Having completed the wooden frame I then took a break and did some more planking, first a mahogany boarder and then glue a black card calk around its inside edge, next cut and sand each plank to fit in the space left, these could then be glued in place with a black card calk between each plank. After a period of drying I sanded the whole surface level. Next I put the nail holes in again using the jig I made to ensure uniform spacing and then gave a coat of sanding sealer. When the rest of the subassemblies are complete they will all be lacquered together before final assembly.