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>> Home > Tags > planking

Thin Flat Timber by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Yep, Ikea wooden blinds are a good source of Lime wood, unfortunately they have stopped making that sort, so it is looking in skip times. Cut into strips and the coating sanded off are excellent for plank on frame boats, also good for deck planking and will take a stain. Alan

Help required please. by onetenor Lieutenant   Posted: 15 days ago
Nice boat. Can I offer a tip. If using balsa planking roll the strips on one side with a pencil or thinnish dowel and the wood will assume a curve which will help accomodate the planks to the curvature of the hull Other woods even plycan be treated like this but will require more pressure from something like a heavy dowel.Damping or using ammonia will help too. Good luck with the build.John👍😁

MTB743 by solo1274 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 17 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 43"/1900g MTB743 Capable of 7mph and a runtime of 35mins Direct Drive to a COMBO 380 (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 11Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through ACTION ELECTRONICS (5Amps) ESC - Comments: This is a Failmile 'D' MTB. This version and number were operated by the 65th Canadian MTB flotilla in the English Channel. I made the model as this version as my Uncle was one of the crew. This model hull is built from scratch in the in the same was the real boats were using double diagonal planking. The propulsion is with 4 props paired using a dual ESC by Action Electronics and 2 11.1v LIPO batteries. These MTB were powered with 4 Packard 4M-2500 Engines with a hull speed of 34.5kts. Armament:- 4 x 18" torpedo's, 2 x 6pdr Mkv11 guns, Twin 20mm Oerlikon gun, 2 x twin Vickers Machine guns on powered mounts, as well as other smaller machine guns on the bridge. For more info goto the Manitoba Maritime Museum

RAF rttl D2763 by teejay Seaman   Posted: 27 days ago
HI members this is a request for help My father served on RAF RTTL D2763 in the 1950s as a wireless operator , there were only five of these boat built in Germany (D prefix on boat number) and there parent station was RAF Sylt although this boat was operated from an town called list. I have searched for some time to find drawings and plans to build a scale model of this boat and found very little . can any one help thank you all for the terrific responses hare is the information I have from e craft were built in Germany at the Krogerwerft Yard at Rendsburg. Their "D" prefix brought about their nickname - 'D'-Boats. They had mixed RAF and German civilian crews, with three of the four Deckhands and one of the two Mechanics being German (and sometimes the Coxswain), the Skipper along with one Deckhand, two Fitters, the remaining Mechanic and W/Op were all RAF. Operating from the island of Sylt off Denmark, D2762 and D2765 worked out of Hornum, D2763 and D2764 from List, with D2766 acting as relief boat to cover for any boat out of service. The numbering sequence accounts for the missing boat numbers in the RTTL Mk.2 fleet. With a length to beam ratio of 7:1, their sleek design was very different to any other boats in the Branch, more akin to the Wartime 'E' Boat, with flared bows and rounded bilges and powered by high speed diesels. Their construction also differed with double skin mahogany shell planking, (outer layer laid horizontal, with a diagonal inner layer) bolted to welded steel skeletal frames and keel. Decks were steel with a timber sheathed foredeck. Superstructures were fabicated from steel using snap-head rivets. The hull was subdivided into six watertight compartments, a Forepeak, Crews Fo'csle, Skippers accomodation, Engine room, Sickbay and Galley and finally the after-Tank Space and Tiller Flat. The outfit and finish of these craft was of a very high standard, making them well liked by their Marine Branch crews. They were all initially fitted with winches for Target Towing, these were subsequently removed as the boats duties were confined to Range Safety and ASR work well out into the North Sea. Their duty roster was one day at sea, one day on standby in harbour and the third day off duty. The Ranges covered a large area extending seawards from the island of Sylt. Five 7th Class buoys were laid for use as foul weather moorings, three outside List harbour, one off Ellenbrogan at the Northern tip of the island and the Southern one near Hornum Odde lighthouse. The craft had relatively short lives with the RAF, with all five being disposed of by 1961. D2762 and D2764 were sold to private owners in 1960, and the other were handed over to the Federal German Navy in 1961. They were subsequently used as ASR craft.

Planking the hull. by sandkb Lieutenant   Posted: 27 days ago
Timber hull construction finished. Now the sanding and filling of imperfections to prepare for the next stage which will be the application of a fibreglass cloth skin to waterproof the hull and obtain a steel-plated like finish.

Planking the Hull by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
Thanks for the update Kevin Descriptions with pics help new and aspiring modellers to perhaps start building. Our members have a wealth of information and are very good at providing solutions or help. Dave

Planking the Hull by sandkb Lieutenant   Posted: 29 days ago
Various wood used ie, Ramin, Mahogani, Annegre, Veneer ply, Balsa. Strip planking is Obechi. Glues used: Cyno, Aliphatic wood glue where sanding required and where strength and waterproof glue is required I've used EpiGlue two pot Marine glue. The planking is used because of the many difficult shapes and curves of the hull construction. Once the sanding and shaping of the hull is completed the hull will be sheathed with a fibreglass cloth skin and resin then sanded smooth and spray painted replicating the steel hull of this vessel. Cheers, Kevin

Planking the Hull by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Good detailed photos of the build. Be good to hear what wood, glue and and tools you used Dave

Planking the Hull by sandkb Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
More pics of the hull planking progress during the last year.

Planking by sandkb Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
these are a few pics of the planking process taken over the past year.(more to come)

To resin cover or not my ulises steam tug by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Mate, welcome to the forum, First of all there is no such thing as newby question, only what you dont know or are uncertain. I would always resin cover the hull, added strength etc, less chance of dings. But, glass cloth or borrow the wifes tights!!! all good for the hull, Resin I have used polyester resin in the past but i now use epoxy layup resin, comes with different time hardeners, or the resin from delux, cant remember the name is water based, (very little smell) I would also pore resin inside the hull as a sealant (between bulkheads and roll the hull around to spread the resin over your planking, also great as you mention its a steam tug so oil etc wont affect the hull. Finish is down to detail sanding and filling, if its smooth to start with it will be far easier to get a smooth finish. Hope this has given you some guidance, shout again if you need more. PS. If your looking for a club, have a look at Etherow MBC we are in Romiley, just out of Stockport Regards Mark

Progress on Build by Pav403 Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Hello all, I've made a start on the Superstructure, they are basic ply with blocking to support. I've split the sections into 3 as I want to have the middle superstructure secured to the decking but have the forward and rear sections removable to allow access to the motors etc. I've also made a start on the planking for the hull, this is balsa which I will look to cover in fiber glass once it is ready. slow progress and I'll update more when I can. Good luck with your builds. Dave

Deck and superstructure by manyboats Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Next was the deck. First I glued some light coloured veneer I had available, and after sealing it drew lines on with a fine marker, but I didn't like the result. Luckily the next day down at the Menshed they were having a cleanup and were going to throw out a roll of paper backed teak veneer! Lucky or what? So I borrowed a rotary guillotine and cut lots of 6mm strips. Also lots of black card strips 1mm wide for the caulking. Had to use a conventional guillotine for them or they were too curly. Rapid pva worked well here. I used cedar for the bow detail. Sanding sealer rubbed down to 600grit gave me the finish I wanted. Cedar again for the rubbing strips; it bends easily with a bit of heat from a heat gun. Superstructure next; the bulkhead uppers were taped in place and the sides, front and back walls glued and taped nice and snug with the coaming. When set the cockpit sides were fixed. Next came the roof. The plans show a proper double curve unlike the kit, so it has to be planked…. cedar again. A thin slot has to be left in the planking at the cockpit sides to take the windscreen, so you need to know its thickness before doing this. I used .5mm rigid PVC as I could not source acetate. The superstructure was painted next. I had some problems here as the later coats of paint were softening the glue and showing up the planking. Many coats and sanding later I thought I’d use an enamel for the white top coats. It wasn't too smooth so I sprayed it with what was supposed to be clear PU varnish, but it was horribly yellow. I gave it a fine rub down and reverted to good old humbrol and a wide soft brush. Worked out fine!

Got it so here goes... by manyboats Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
I built the Fairey Huntsman by Precedent back in the ‘70s. It must have been a very different kit to the one being sold now. I had few resources back then but somehow managed a half decent job of it with a glow plug engine for power. Never could start it, and eventually sold it to someone prepared to persevere with it. It must have had a few fittings, and plans, unlike the current one, which is really poor quality. After some consideration and a timely article in Model Boats magazine, I ordered the plans from I still wanted to make it the size of the kit so had to get them enlarged to 11th scale.; not a problem. So this build blog is to encourage anyone wanting to build this delightful classic boat not to get a kit but to scratch build it. Better and much more satisfying. You’ll probably have to scratch build all the fittings and detailing anyway. I didn't manage to take detailed photos all the time but hopefully there will be enough to be useful. I got lucky with supplies of appropriate ply at my local Menshed, and got on with cutting out the frames on their scroll saw. I had plenty of materials accumulated over years and lots of cedar from venetian blinds, which is really good for planking etc. The plans are more accurate than the kit and have much nicer hull lines. Fitting the frames was straight forward, and double cedar chine strips were epoxied in.

Priming the hull. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
At someone else's suggestion I have already obtained 'samples' from both aforementioned emporiums but the wood varies a lot in width, grain and finish and frankly I dont want to spend hours trueing them up beforehand. Probably OK for planking a hull but not a finished deck. Good quality stripwood is quite inexpensive so I will buy some from a good supplier and do the job properly. 'Hapeth of tar' and all that !. Rob.