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>> Home > Tags > planks

Pretend deck planking by scout13 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 hour ago
McDonald's have changed the shape of their stirrers all wavy sides I have seen a deck with the planks held down with drawing pins to make the gap between them. This was into a wooden sub structure then the gaps between the planks filed with black bumper body filler Scout

Pretend deck planking by steve-d Commander   Posted: 24 hours ago
Found some info that said 16foot was the most common length. 22' is available but the price goes up considerably. 16' will be fine by me as that is half the length of the actual boat so 16" planks on the model. Having trouble finding planks and sheet in the same wood and thickness. I need some sheet for the king planks etc. Have found Maple and Lime so now need to know which comes closest to Teak? Steve

Pretend deck planking by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Hi Steve, take a look here at some real 'woodies', may give some idea of the variety of plank lengths. Deck plank 'joggling'😉 See pic Happy bending, cheers, Doug 😎 BTW: 5x0.5mm is precisely the size of the mahogany strip I have for the deck planks on my fish cutter. Fortunately STRAIGHT!! I might go for thick black card instead of Plasticard though. Or even a fine filler stained with black paint or ink!? Spacers of scrap strip between the planks while gluing and then fill and sand. Might work 😉 Some guys just go along the plank edges with a black felt pen.

Pretend deck planking by steve-d Commander   Posted: 1 day ago
I don't want to build the deck up too much so have been looking at 0.5mm thick planks. Scale wise they need to be 5mm wide. And as Doug said 10:1 plank/gap so I'm planning to use 0.5mm black plasticard as the caulking. On a full size cabin cruiser what would be the normal length of a plank? I've been on Google to see if I can find any info but the best I found was an advert for planks that were 1220 long which seems rather short to my mind. Steve

Pretend deck planking by steve-d Commander   Posted: 1 day ago
I found the pencil did not give enough definition to the plank join. A fine fibre tip pen produced a good line but the ink still tried to chase the grain of the wood. I managed to smudge a couple of lines before they had dried. But finally, the grain of the plywood looked 'wrong' on the planks which would not be too bad down the side of the cabin but the foredeck planks will have a quite significant curve and a large surface area to see how 'wrong' the grain is. I have a wallpaper steamer somewhere in the garage so modifying that will be the next job. Steve

Pretend deck planking by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
A good supply of free planks is available at most McDonald's eateries and coffee shops, my family and friends always grab me a handful when visiting such places. I now have a good supply. I usually pop them in my wife's old pressure cooker for about 20 minutes which normally allows me to bend round the forming jig and pin down till dry. As for colours, coffee, tea, food colour or commercial wood dies, it's your model so you have to decide. And I usually try a few spare planks to test the colours. I hope this helps, cheers Colin.

Pretend deck planking by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi Steve, What went wrong? 😲 1. Drawing on deck planking, i.e. on a veneer or thin ply- Why/how did it go wrong? Surely since the planks are all 'parallel curves' all you need to do is make a curve template in plasticard from the plan. Then at a few strategic points along the plank length mark the widths of the planks. Set the template along these points and 'Bob's yer Uncle - Fanny's yer Aunt' 😉 Mind you; doing it that way the 'curious grain of the planks' would betray the fiddle🤔 2. 'what type of strip wood - Any very close grained type. Possible source- 3. How to glue it!? Any thin, spreadable waterproof wood glue! 4. Gap? Max 0.5mm perhaps. Ca 10 to 1 ratio. 5. 'How do you secure the bent planks whilst the glue dries? Modelling pins at strategic points along the plank. Assumes planks are pre-shaped by steaming!! See 6. 😉 6. 'Do I need to steam the planks? - YES! As mentioned above; make a template defining the curve required. From this make a jig of ca 5mm x 10mm in which you can set the steamed planks to cool and set to the shape required. To allow for the so called 'spring back' make the jig with a slightly sharper curve than the actual deck curve. When fitting the planks to the deck it's easier to 'push them out' than to try to increase the curvature. Finally; mark on the deck base the plank widths at strategic points along the plank length as alignment points. Glue planks alternately left/right (OK port/starboard😉) using modelling pins to hold in place until the glue is fully cured. For the 'gaps' There are various solutions in Build Blogs on this site. One that I like is the use of thin black card. When the whole deck is planked and properly cured sand lightly (ca 240 grit). 7. 'weathered teak' there are various suppliers of teak stain and also deck weathering stains; e.g. Jotika stain, Lifecolor Washes for Hulls and Wooden Decks, set part no. LP04, which includes Wooden deck darkener and Shadower, amongst other useful weathering pigments. Google Lifecolor and you'll surely find some UK distributors. Enough answers for enough questions!? 😁 Hope this provides some inspiration, Cheers, Doug 😎

Pretend deck planking by steve-d Commander   Posted: 2 days ago
Right ho. Change of plans. Tried some experiments with drawing on my deck planking and screwed it up after only 8 planks worth. I also tried just using pencil but the curved planks are just impossible to draw. So...what type of strip wood is best to replicate a weathered teak look? Where to buy it? How do I glue it to birch ply? What gap should I use for 5mm wide planks? How do you secure the bent planks whilst the glue dries? Do I need to steam the planks? Should be enough questions for now, Steve

Upper & Lower Chines by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Simple Rob, Instead of attempting some almost impossible bends of thin (0.5mmx5mm )planks, I'll cut it out of 3 interlocking pieces (each side) of 1.5mm mahog sheet. Will probably end up looking more like it would have been done on an original 😊 Cheers, Doug 😎

Elizabeth Cabin/superstructure by muddy Admiral   Posted: 19 days ago
The cabin has now been finished off with a well deck, the well deck is made of balsa mostly, and the floor is oly, the well deck floor is lined as planks ( urghh ), firstly scored with a blunt Stanley type knife blade the the plank lines infilled with pencil, the floorboard nail marks are just scored with a sharp pin with a little cyno rubbed in the hole to colour the pin prick, decided to make this as an all in one removal unit, It still has to be glazed and fittings plus furniture, as in windscreen , door's consul etc: .. The deck and all other woodwork has been varnished and the cabin roof painted white, awaiting suitable weather to paint the hull, as this is done outdoors.. Muddy....

Elizabeth by muddy Admiral   Posted: 19 days ago
Sorry chaps but canna remember how far into this build we progressed.. But hoping not to bore you, the decks were added, in Walnut planks 5mm x 3mm, edges lined with beech, ( this I named Bendy Beech ) it has been treated and one can tie this in a knot, no need for steaming or water soaking just apply glue and tack it down or clamp it until glue dries. BUT-it aint cheap.. Made a start on the cabin upperworks, this is veneered 3mm ply. Basic innards construction with formers trying to make it as light as possible. More to follow.. Muddy..

Metal sanding plates by Nonsuch Seaman   Posted: 30 days ago
They sound similar, but sure mine are by Sandvik. I never thought to clean them with paint stripper. Thanks for that, I'll give it a try. The new laser etched one's from Japan are highly flexible though, perfect for sanding a round bilged hull. At £6.99 including P&P I'm going to order a course and medium to make up the set. My main interest is static sailing ships and my new NT Sander has already made itself indispensable, levelling veneer planks. Their durability remains to be seen. Mike

Pretend deck planking by Peejay Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
Don't know if it is still available, but I downloaded the construction manual for the Graupner Valvdiva, which has a joggled king plank and curved planking which is started on the outer edge of the deck. I haven't tried it yet, but it appears to be a good "how to." Greatest concern for me is bending the planks to the curve of the deck, as they are wider than their thickness.

Pretend deck planking by steve-d Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Nice work but in my case the planks are all curved and herringbone jointed so far more complicated than I am prepared to put into this model. It is going to be hard enough just trying to draw it. Steve

Pretend deck planking by cormorant Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
May be too late, but have you thought about real planking? This was my first attempt following advice on various youtube videos and studying pictures of the full sized boat. Planks supplied by Jotika. They have various sizes and woods and worked out to quantity when I gave them the deck measurements. I used cyano to glue to a plastic deck and sealed with a proprietory outdoor satin varnish. I found it very satisfying and was pleased with the end result. Ps. Please excuse the black dots of fly sht. on the deck in the first picture. Steve