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>> Home > Tags > planks

jj2 I'm just starting out. by mikefox Seaman   Posted: 22 hours ago
I want to learn how to scratch build a Viking ship about 30inches. How to cut curved planks and how to create the plans. Where do I go to learn how? Have built 4 kits with die cut planks. hard to do with a knife.

Elizabeth by muddy Admiral   Posted: 6 days ago
Playing with different strips of caulking but reverted back to what i usually do, the quickest, in this instance Walnut planks 3mm x 5mm with .5mm Maple vertically mounted to imitate caulking..

deck planks by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
nice tip that hammer regarding the grating would never of thought of that.

deck planks by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
I have added wood to the outer edge of the deck, (the scuppers) it projects out from the hull, forming the knuckle. That's what I call the half round strip around the hull, another needed below the sponsons, this one just stuck on. There is a raised section over the rudder arm, with a grating. Small gratings can be a problem, here is a solution, not my idea but a good one. A plastic hit & miss air vent, D.I.Y. store. I cut it with a band saw, as the blade cools down, were a jig saw melts it back again.

Wherry hull in GRP by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi Dave, as Arron is the name on the facebook chat heading I assumed, reasonably, that he is the one to talk to. It's perfectly possible to see faults in a product without actually having it in one's hand. I can see that the light reflections down the side show the sides to be not fairly curved. Years in the car design/prototyping game have ensured that (I, too, am a tool/patternmaker of many years experience, from 1/500th city models to full size Bugatti design models). I have a good eye and both are telling me that hull in the picture I was sent isn't top drawer. The top edge of the hull is very woolly, not smoothly trimmed, but the main objection is that it's not clinker and that is a major problem for a wherry, considering only Albion was carvel. With a clinker model we could have a selection of different craft. With carvel, every model would be Albion, a little tedious at the pondside, I'm sure you would agree. Perhaps you could produce a pattern by gluing planks on to the basic GRP structure? Then re-mould. To counter the balance of such a big sail in a blow you will also need a fin keel, but that's down to the builder really, though your experiments with waterline would be useful for buyers of the hull as to weights required, etc. I don't wish to pee on your bonfire, but with a history of so many very good (and obviously so) GRP hulls on the market, we have come to expect a bang-on quality from the word go. Of course, any company new or old, who are prepared to listen to criticism and act on it are more than welcomed. Perhaps some different photos of the hull would satisfy us as to its shape and moulding quality? If it were a lot better than that one photo shows, I would be prepared to buy one still and then glue suitable planks to it to get my clinker model if that proves possible. I can't really say fairer than that. Cheers, Martin

Vanity, Victorian Cutter by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
R/C gear going in on a 2 piece plank, so it'll fit through the hatches. Some deck planks going on, king plank too. Coamings to help water proof from splash. These are Foamex, completely waterproof stuff. The hatches and houses will be fitted with magnets eventually. The planking is NOT a la yacht. For some reason Dan Hatcher laid deck planks like workboats and motor boats, parallel to the King plank, not the covering boards. Believe me when you've lived on one of these and put every pot you have under the deck leaks when it rains, you know the pattern of the laid deck! Rear deck half just rested on as the R/C gear is yet to be finished. Waiting for some more allly tube to guide the steering cables and braided line for the sheet control. Steering servo coming this afternoon. Martin

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Thanks Donnieboy it has been 28degrees c here today perfect painting weather. I can now start assembly while waiting for the glue to dry on the ships boat planking, been that warm on my shed I managed to get two planks each side today . Normally have to wait 12hrs between planks. Ron

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Ships boat continued It's coming along now almost finished planking the sides just a couple of planks to fit and can then plank the stern. It's certainly been a learning curve doing my first clinker hull and at this size , there has been a few mistakes but that's modelling .

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute by Frodo31 Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Richard, it does seem really odd , especially if you look at the plans for the planking which seem to indicate planks are long enough. Anyway who know maybe a bad set of wood, but sure will work!

deck planks by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
the boiler brazed, painted , tested 60psi and safety valve set 25psi. The paint looks grey but is black high temp. timber cut for insulation.

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Agreed Ron, that keel joint definitely needs some reinforcement👍 Personally I would do the same between all the bulkheads to give the last plank something to sit on and strengthen the whole shebang. Actually it should be the first plank; start at the keel and work up on alternate sides. 👍 BTW Richard, if you buy a 68cm battery you'll have to build a half full size boat 😉😁 Also, when cutting the planks try to make sure that you don't have short pieces at the stern. They will be harder to keep in place than longer chunks and won't take the hull shape properly and smoothly. Try to keep the joints somewhere in the mid section where the hull is flatter and the joints are under less stress BUT not one above the other, stagger them at least one bulkhead from plank to plank. If you don't get on with the bender (and the hull will be painted and not varnished) you could cheat a little (we all do it when it suits😊) and glue balsa blocks around the stern and carve and sand to fit. @ Frodo, this was originally your thread 😲 - hope you are following and all this helps you as well!? Best of luck to you both, cheers Doug 😎

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
not used the plank benders before richard i have made my own plank steamer to soften the planks for bending using a wallpaper stripper with a length of copper pipe fixed to the end to place the planks in works a treat 😎 may i remind you richard i noticed there is no strengthener on the joint below where the motor couplings is, i know it goes below the planking line but you could still place a strengthener above the planking line in side the hull

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute by Richard7 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 months ago
You guys are good,very good! Going to order the hump back battery (68cm), that will save me butchering anymore of the bulk heads......huge thanks! Regarding the planking in the kit, they are all the same length about 90 cm short of the actual boat length, have purchased a “planking machine from Mantua, never used one before but am hoping it will help me to bend the planks before fixing with glue, have you used anything like that, any tips? Cheers and thanks

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Richard, so far Ron has been right on the button 👍 and just beat me to it on the planking. BTW: Planning is half the game, so first split the planking packs into two equal sets. Offer up the shorter planks to the framing to see where to cut with absolute minimum wastage. MEASURE TWICE OR THRICE AND CUT ONCE!! Is the maxim😉 Work on alternate sides to minimise twisting of the hull. Good luck. The second batt Ron suggests should be your solution as it's only about 68mm long. The 'inline' pack you have is about 105mm. Actually the Billing instructions (such as they are🤔) recommend an 8.4V pack, but since you have fitted a more powerful motor than recommended this 7.2V pack should throttle it back a bit 😉 Run time probably less than with the 400 though. Cheers Doug 😎 PS Dimensions of Hump Pack added; too long! 112mm😆

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
ships boat planking well the first 2 planks have been fitted today and things went better than expected, guess that is from making sure everything was squared up yesterday 😎 well that's my excuse and i'm sticking to it 😜