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>> Home > Tags > planks

Cabin detail Pt 1 by mturpin013 Captain   Posted: 7 days ago
I wanted to try and recreate the detail as per the available photos and drawings that I had so the first thing was to try and make the cabin have walls and a door, so previously I had cut away bulkhead B2 and extended CF2 to the bottom skin and put the door opening in. Now for the actual piece of cabin floor, the entry is slightly strange as there appears to be an inset step from the from the sick bay up into the cockpit but then it is relatively straight forward, it was made from 2mm ply. Planking was something I have never done so a lot of research was done prior to starting. I decided to use a lime wood plank with a black 0.3 black card divider (caulk) all glued with aliphatic adhesive. I found the process quite enjoyable and the results on the test piece for a first attempt were quite pleasing. I then wanted to reproduce the nailing of the planks so I devised a small tool to ensure a consistent pattern Its simply a piece of obeche with four holes, 4 brass pins and a black divider line, this is simply placed on the join line and then tapped with a light hammer and filled with the tip of a black pen. The first attempt looks slightly misaligned but proved the system worked, I have made a more accurate one for the real floor. After the planks were set it was sanded flat which unfortunately leaves the wood grain blackened by the black card dust, however using a plastic eraser it’s easily removed ready for sealing. I thought that the door opening needed some sort of finishing/dressing so I decided to manufacture a mahogany door frame and handrail around the cabin.

Devil in the detail! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Some people are 'Gluttons for punishment' Ed 😁😉 Reminds me of the Krick "kit" for my Type 1A U Boat though! Basically it was four 110 x 12 x 3cm planks, a bag of assorted brass tubes, two vac formed half shells for the conning tower, instruction book with photos and a plan from which you had to take templates for the hours and hours of sawing, planing and sanding to form the hull shape. Which I later discovered in the Deutsches Museum here (Science and Technology) was wrong!🤔 So out with the plane and sander again! But that was 30 years ago, cheers Doug 😎

Thames Steam Launch "Miranda" by Smiffy Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 13 days ago
1st phase complete - keel plus frames and the slot for the stern tube cut and dowelled back together. Now about to cut the bow and stern blocks and begin the hull planking - a skin of 0.4mm ply and mahogany planks on top.

another daft question by mturpin013 Captain   Posted: 25 days ago
Interesting article in Model Boats web site which mentions joggling, however I'm still none the wiser. and in addition an interesting article on decking in the Titanic Research and Modeling Association web site. after some more research I found this comment by Ian Gardner "I find, when joggling planks into the waterway or king plank, it is useful, if you have the facilities, to grind a chisel the width of the joggling to chop out the recess in the waterway. This is usually one third the width of the plank being used if memory serves. The chisel can be made from a an old needle file and hardened after grinding." and pictures of joggled joints It appears its cutting into the waterway or king plank. In a way you can see the reason its called joggling as it gives the same profile as in metal joggling eg "Z"

Planking almost very nearly finished! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Finished nights this morning, had a couple of hours kip then thrashed some more planking! Stern end finished, main hull finished, just the bow uppers to put in. Once completed, will get some pva squeegee’d into the inside joints between planks and formers then will give the inside a couple of coats of resin. Once that’s done, rough sand the hull and fill the remaining gaps and blemishes with wood filler before final sanding and touch filling prior to glass clothing. Before I glass cloth, shall install prop shafts, motor mounts, motors, install decks then onwards with clothing.

another daft question by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Depends what we are talking about. Doug, Colin I agree if we are referring to a metal joggle used to bend two metal sheet edges so they lay flat for riveting or welding. On a ship the planks are joggled (cut) into the edge plank to make a neat joint. Many fine models are spoilt by having the deck planks incorrectly cut at the angle of the edge plank.

Planking near finished by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Have added a few more planks over the last couple of days before and after bed as on nights. Gaps should be closed by Friday? Have also marked exit points for prop shafts and marked and drilled rudder mounting holes.

Planking progress by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
Over the past couple of days, planking is moving on. Working on 2 planks per side per day allowing overnight setting time before moving on to next row. Starting nights tonight, so will try an add a couple of planks each day before bed!

Formers in-planking starts! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
So, this morning saw the remaining formers glued and weighted whilst setting. Have finished the day with laying down the first 2 planks up against the keel. Once I’ve got the 2 planks glued in against the other side of the keel will then add 1 or 2 planks each side at the same time and allow to set before moving on, all the time weighted down with my trusty vice in the hope of a straight hull at the end! All straights so far!

It’s been a long day! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Spooooky.....! I’ve just laid down the first 2 rows of planks with enough excess at the stern to do just that!

deck planks by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Shaft bearings fitted in hull. hole drilled with brace & bit, brutal but did the job. Out bearing bedded in silicone, shaft & plates fixed wile setting for perfect alignment.

deck planks by Wingcoax Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Lead wiping is one of the lost arts, Can't be many left who know the tricks. Elf and stupidity rules.

deck planks by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I was not happy with the hull after finishing the plating. The flat sides very wobbly, & lots of runs & lumps of solder. So I removed the internal supports & the top strake up to it curved. Replaced top strake with 3mm ply fitted new bulkheads & top frame. I started to sand off the excess solder would have taken for ever. Then I remembered seeing my father wipe a lead joint, that was when water pipes where lead. I didn't have a tallow cloth so I took lard from the kitchen. Heat a small section with a pencil blow torch & wipe it clean. All done in 10mins. Glued the plank made before to the sub deck. With a home made gauge mark 3/8th in this will form the scuppers.

Clamps and such by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Ron I forgot you build small models in balsa. My choice would be elastic bands 1/4" wide as used to hold the wings on model planes or similar. Protect the open bottom with a solid plank and wrap the bands all round every few inches. Get some scrap balsa and put between the band and hull planks, add just enough to hold the joint. Leave to dry then remove and get a box to keep your bands etc for next time. On larger models I have used luggage straps tied to length and packed with scrap wood. Very good for holding planks etc on hulls as the bands/straps can be made with the packing to give pressure in more than one direction at the same time.

Clamps and such by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Ron The latest method I have seen uses Neodium magnets. You use a flat sheet of steel as the base and triangular shaped pieces of 3/4 inch ply in which the magnets are sunk into and glued. The magnets come in various sizes but are very strong and do clamp well. For hull work you can use two magnets, one on each side of the part that needs holding. I used cocktail sticks to hold the planks on my schooner-you drill a small hole at each former and tap in a glued stick. Once dry you can sand flush. If you don't want anything to show make your own pins from a plank offcut. Happy New Year Dave