Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Guest
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
   
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play


Help Support This Website
£
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.



£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team


Donation History
February 2019: 7 people
January 2019: 16 people
December 2018: 6 people
November 2018: 11 people
October 2018: 9 people
September 2018: 13 people
August 2018: 5 people
July 2018: 8 people
June 2018: 8 people
May 2018: 7 people
April 2018: 10 people


Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy
Advertising
Contact


Model Boats Website
Active Users (7)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > planks

planks
planked
planking
planks
HMS EXETER by JOHN Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
Here are pictures of HMS Exeter - I built her over a period of time plank on frame hull, covered in styrene to assimilate plating on the hull. The deck is all planked with individual planks - the guns are fully rotating and elevating but not firing :-). John

Folding Bulwark????! by JOHN Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
hi there Toby - so we meet on this Forum 😊 I have had a good look through 2 or 3 books to name steam coasters and one of my favourite ones Merchant Ship construction (the apprentices Bible) to see if I could find any information about how the folding bulkheads were secured. Sadly, though, there doesn't seem to be any in the books - the ones I have anyway - but when I did a search on the web I came across a few interesting photographs which shows one or two of the East India ships obviously in foreign ports - but - the way they were unloading/loading the ships was they had folding bulwarks in the down position and rather large wide gangplanks running up from the shore which the natives were using to load the ships. Also, some of these ships carried livestock on deck and these folding bulwarks would ease loading of cattle etc or whatever into the pens. John

The deck planking. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
The kit I’m constructing is a pre-production prototype and consequently it does not have the ‘laser etched planking’ feature that has been subsequently introduced in the final production kits on the ‘upper’ deck and the ‘well’ deck. This is of no concern to me because I think I prefer to do my own planking anyway but I do have to do a bit of preparatory ‘laying out’ of the deck pattern to ensure that it’s symmetrical and laid in a pleasing fashion. I have chosen to use 1.6 mm x 9.5 mm obeche hardwood strip-wood (from SLEC) for this with a thin black plasticard caulking between the planks. This is what I did when I constructed the VMW Fire Tender and the result was very effective and visually pleasing. Obeche has a pleasing grain, takes stain very easily and is also considerably cheaper than mahogany which I feel would be far too ‘dark red’ when finally lacquered. Because I wanted an outer curved plank around the hull edge I had to cut this from 1.6mm obeche sheet to the correct shape and width as it would be impossible to bend a strip to this extreme curve. These also needed a section trimmed out to allow the bow gunwales to be positioned correctly. Once both sides were cut and shaped I could then form the ply gunwales to the correct curve by my heating and bending process and glued them down to the deck. I understand that on the production kits these gunwales are now incorporated into the side skins which will make the construction a bit easier. The remaining outer planks on the hull edges were made from straight lengths of obeche but required some easing cuts so that they could be bent to the curve of the hull. Hopefully these cuts will not be too noticeable in the finished deck. When all the edge planks were glued in place I temporarily laid out the obeche planking strips with a thin strip of black plasticard as caulking and all held in place with masking tape. The centre plank was arranged to lie over the centre line from bow to stern. The setting out of the planks in this manner confirmed that the layout worked as intended and so I began fixing down the planking from the centre plank of the hull outwards with a fast bonding superglue and the process proved to be quite quick to complete. The side deck planks were equally straightforward but did require some to be carefully shaped in a tapered fashion at each end to fill the remaining gaps. The rear deck was also planked by working out from the centre plank and thankfully the planking layout matched and followed the bow deck planking perfectly. The surplus plasticard ‘caulking’ was then trimmed flush to the planks with a very sharp chisel and the entire deck rubbed down with my sanding plate until it was all perfectly smooth. For those building this model that don’t feel confident enough to do ‘real planking’ will probably want to make use of the laser etched planking on the ply deck panels to achieve a similar result with very minimal effort, but I quite like the challenge of doing it the hard way and the benefit of a slightly better finish.

riva by bustedknuckles Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
Given that the inner core of the riva is some sort of plastic (onto which the planks are laid and glued), and given that the one shown has some 15 coats of clear epoxy and varnish, it is quite well sealed. And stable in our experience. I should have mentioned that you may be carving out space for the electronics and motors as well. (I say "may" because it has been a few years, and my memory is not photographic...)

Pretend deck planking by TOWN3810 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi I use popular ply for construction and decking it is much lighter than birch but is much stronger than light ply . The decking is a light straw colour and of very close uniform grain one coat of danish oil 'can be applied with a soft brush if you are worried about rags washed out with turps use dividers to measure plank widths use biro for curved planks use a wheeled block device as per the yacht books to follow deck edge apply several coats of oil burnish with fine Scotchbrite Cheers Ian

Pretend deck planking by Zdenek Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
The bend was done using a "jig" and two strips of a thin plywood as a protection of the planks (nor to distort them by clamps as it happened for the first time). First, I cooked them a little, of course. When dried, they kept the shape nicely. For caulking, the epoxy (or aliphatic wood glue) could be "injected" into the gaps left between the planks. I have tried all three methods (black paper, epoxy and aliphatic glue) and went for paper, at the end.

Pretend deck planking by Zdenek Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
As far as the bending of the planks is concerned: the thinner and wider the planks are, the more difficult the bending is if you don't want them twisted. As a "caulking", I usually use the black card (thickness of some 0,3 mm or so) and the result is not a tragedy, I would say (the planks on the picture are 4 x 2 mm, lime wood. You have to make a choice of planking method because everyone has his own "best" one 😉. Good Luck! Zdenek

Pretend deck planking by scout13 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
McDonald's have changed the shape of their stirrers all wavy sides I have seen a deck with the planks held down with drawing pins to make the gap between them. This was into a wooden sub structure then the gaps between the planks filed with black bumper body filler Scout

Pretend deck planking by steve-d Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Found some info that said 16foot was the most common length. 22' is available but the price goes up considerably. 16' will be fine by me as that is half the length of the actual boat so 16" planks on the model. Having trouble finding planks and sheet in the same wood and thickness. I need some sheet for the king planks etc. Have found Maple and Lime so now need to know which comes closest to Teak? Steve

Pretend deck planking by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Steve, take a look here at some real 'woodies', may give some idea of the variety of plank lengths. https://www.pinterest.de/pin/AbSBn80zTTthyPYzCjiWxssgNMPM0f2... Deck plank 'joggling'😉 See pic https://www.pinterest.de/pin/332281278754154088/ Happy bending, cheers, Doug 😎 BTW: 5x0.5mm is precisely the size of the mahogany strip I have for the deck planks on my fish cutter. Fortunately STRAIGHT!! I might go for thick black card instead of Plasticard though. Or even a fine filler stained with black paint or ink!? Spacers of scrap strip between the planks while gluing and then fill and sand. Might work 😉 Some guys just go along the plank edges with a black felt pen.

Pretend deck planking by steve-d Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
I don't want to build the deck up too much so have been looking at 0.5mm thick planks. Scale wise they need to be 5mm wide. And as Doug said 10:1 plank/gap so I'm planning to use 0.5mm black plasticard as the caulking. On a full size cabin cruiser what would be the normal length of a plank? I've been on Google to see if I can find any info but the best I found was an advert for planks that were 1220 long which seems rather short to my mind. Steve

Pretend deck planking by steve-d Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
I found the pencil did not give enough definition to the plank join. A fine fibre tip pen produced a good line but the ink still tried to chase the grain of the wood. I managed to smudge a couple of lines before they had dried. But finally, the grain of the plywood looked 'wrong' on the planks which would not be too bad down the side of the cabin but the foredeck planks will have a quite significant curve and a large surface area to see how 'wrong' the grain is. I have a wallpaper steamer somewhere in the garage so modifying that will be the next job. Steve

Pretend deck planking by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
A good supply of free planks is available at most McDonald's eateries and coffee shops, my family and friends always grab me a handful when visiting such places. I now have a good supply. I usually pop them in my wife's old pressure cooker for about 20 minutes which normally allows me to bend round the forming jig and pin down till dry. As for colours, coffee, tea, food colour or commercial wood dies, it's your model so you have to decide. And I usually try a few spare planks to test the colours. I hope this helps, cheers Colin.

Pretend deck planking by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Steve, What went wrong? 😲 1. Drawing on deck planking, i.e. on a veneer or thin ply- Why/how did it go wrong? Surely since the planks are all 'parallel curves' all you need to do is make a curve template in plasticard from the plan. Then at a few strategic points along the plank length mark the widths of the planks. Set the template along these points and 'Bob's yer Uncle - Fanny's yer Aunt' 😉 Mind you; doing it that way the 'curious grain of the planks' would betray the fiddle🤔 2. 'what type of strip wood - Any very close grained type. Possible source- http://www.slecuk.com/index.html 3. How to glue it!? Any thin, spreadable waterproof wood glue! 4. Gap? Max 0.5mm perhaps. Ca 10 to 1 ratio. 5. 'How do you secure the bent planks whilst the glue dries? Modelling pins at strategic points along the plank. Assumes planks are pre-shaped by steaming!! See 6. 😉 6. 'Do I need to steam the planks? - YES! As mentioned above; make a template defining the curve required. From this make a jig of ca 5mm x 10mm in which you can set the steamed planks to cool and set to the shape required. To allow for the so called 'spring back' make the jig with a slightly sharper curve than the actual deck curve. When fitting the planks to the deck it's easier to 'push them out' than to try to increase the curvature. Finally; mark on the deck base the plank widths at strategic points along the plank length as alignment points. Glue planks alternately left/right (OK port/starboard😉) using modelling pins to hold in place until the glue is fully cured. For the 'gaps' There are various solutions in Build Blogs on this site. One that I like is the use of thin black card. When the whole deck is planked and properly cured sand lightly (ca 240 grit). 7. 'weathered teak' there are various suppliers of teak stain and also deck weathering stains; e.g. Jotika stain, Lifecolor Washes for Hulls and Wooden Decks, set part no. LP04, which includes Wooden deck darkener and Shadower, amongst other useful weathering pigments. http://www.astromodel.it Google Lifecolor and you'll surely find some UK distributors. Enough answers for enough questions!? 😁 Hope this provides some inspiration, Cheers, Doug 😎

Pretend deck planking by steve-d Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Right ho. Change of plans. Tried some experiments with drawing on my deck planking and screwed it up after only 8 planks worth. I also tried just using pencil but the curved planks are just impossible to draw. So...what type of strip wood is best to replicate a weathered teak look? Where to buy it? How do I glue it to birch ply? What gap should I use for 5mm wide planks? How do you secure the bent planks whilst the glue dries? Do I need to steam the planks? Should be enough questions for now, Steve