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>> Home > Tags > port

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Making a Start by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 hours ago
So, as per manual, built the tunnel duct former from 6mm ply. This is where i deviated slightly from the manual by making the duct from 3 laminations of 1/32 balsa instead of the depron centre and balsa outside. I used some solarfilm backing to keep the drying balsa off the former to prevent the very wet wood bonding to it, this I found out with my first attempt that stuck firm to the former and was destroyed attemting to remove! Its turned out great and after careful measuring, the rudder support was fitted (3mm Liteply substituted for the depron) and the whole thing sanded, sealed and primed ready to take VW Brilliant orange tomorrow. I made the rudders from 3mm balsa and glass clothed 1 side. ive fitted brass tubes instead of the supplied plastic tube. Last coupl of pics show the hull base with some balsa sheet added to give some extra rigidity without adding to much weight.

Enterprise by Bryan-the-pirate Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
[Score: 10/10] 40" Enterprise Capable of 8mph and a runtime of 120mins Direct Drive to a Mother nature Controlled Through Acoms ESC - Comments: I love this 8 meter yacht,sail number K91 It has a great keel shape allowing weed to be ignored most of the time. Built by the southwater dabblers a while back and has been through a few owners before I brought her. Moves in the lightest of winds and copes with large gusts too. Am improvement on the basic model is the larger rudder allowing superb control (unless I get distracted!) Deck is lined in wood with a cabin top allowing access to the inner workings. I am running it on a acoms 27Mhz set as it has never let me down I can see little point in changing it to 2.4 Ghz The only thing I have done is added some portholes and a wheel to make it more realistic. As can be seen in last photo not all weed can be ignored!!!

Prop Shaft Grease by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
I would add that it is important that you also have a thrust washer at each end of the propshaft. We used to use Rizla cigarette papers to gauge the clearance.

Thames sailing barge Capricorn by tomarack Commander   Posted: 6 days ago
Sport - camera test. I cannot find proper video format..so .. https://youtu.be/eCSJm78fgV0

Tsb Capricorn by tomarack Commander   Posted: 6 days ago
Sport - camera test. I cannot find proper video format..so .. https://youtu.be/eCSJm78fgV0

Thames sailing barge Capricorn by tomarack Commander   Posted: 6 days ago
I tried attaching to the roof of the cabin MD80 camera with a clip. In practice, the camera was unreliable. That's why I bought a small and reliable sports camera that I placed in front of mizzenmast.The camera has a scanning angle of 120 °.Looks OK. (Tested) The camera can be easily attached by sliding it to the mount (wooden cube)on the roof of the aft cabin.

Skimmer from Mobile Marine by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi Steve Sorry, no I did not take photos of the build. If you have the Mobile Marine hull then I built a vertical wooden plate up through the top and strengthened with wood plates beneath the top moulding. If your rudder snake runs over the top make sure you allow for this when deciding how high to mount the motor/prop!! This works but flexes when power is applied so if I did another I would mount the upright to the base and make a slot in the top to allow it to pass through. I would also provide support, below the top, to the upright behind and right up to the hull sides. The force from the motor is truly awesome and plastic mouldings tend to (and do) flex. I use two rudders as other members have found they work better than one. I used 1/8" welding rods for the cage and did have some hard black netting at one time but have had no problems with just the frame. If I sailed in an area where the public had access then I would provide a cover. Just get the mount and prop sorted before you finalise as mine was too small!

Skimmer from Mobile Marine by cormorant Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Hi Dave Following your advice on how to fix the ply board in the hull, I decided to try silicone. It worked well and allowed me to gap fill where necessary. I am now ready to proceed further and reading your advice to Chris about motor mounts, getting them strong enough seems most important. Have you got any detailed pictures of your mount you could post please? Regards Steve

Ebay Horrors by bilzin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
I saw an ad on Ebay listing a now discontinued Graupner kit of the Leanne Tön 12 shrimper and thought as it was no longer available I'd give it a try............mistake number one ! WHEN it finally arrived the box (water damaged) contained what the president of our model boat club described as 'a bag of bits' with about 40% of the parts missing and those that weren't were damaged in some way ie water damaged and warped. To cut a long story short, the seller was quite rude when I contacted him/her and refused point blank to refund my payment or accept a return. Furthermore I was accused of not sending true photographs of the contents of the package and denying other potential buyers the opportunity of bidding on this item. Finally, Ebay have considered this case and have ruled that not only is the item not as it was described , but that a refund must be made including the original postage fee. I realise that many unscrupulous sellers are of the mistaken belief that "NO RETURNS ACCEPTED" in their listing means just that, and that any old tat can be auctioned, but unfortunately for this seller that is not the case. I sincerely hope that this person has learnt the lesson that is not wise to attempt to " bullshit a bullshitter!" Lesson over !

M5 Prop Shaft by ChrisF Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 8 days ago
True, but the internet does make it easy to find virtually everything that you want and you can compare alternatives and prices. A shop does give you the opportunity to look at the part (if they have it!) but often they will only have a choice of one. I think the internet is invaluable for parts and research and getting something delivered in a couple of days is brilliant. I'm 64 by the way.

Plating by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
I said on post until the plating finished. Well finished one side, just three more on the other. Drilling the portholes with a cone drill. Holding with grips don't want to cut my fingers. Sized to fit brass tube, (chromed will skim off) That will be the surrounds, fitted after finished painting the hull.

M. V. TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Finished the major parts of the hull and am satisfied with the results. Now turned to the superstructure, which has turned into a challenge in its own right. Decided to break the structure down into decks and concentrate on each deck individually; before “rolling them up” into the complete structure. Also decided to make the central “core” first and complete, before adding the curved frontispiece containing the forward bulwarks. This would allow all the detail between the two such as windows, doors and portholes to be accurately made and positioned. The structure from the first deck upwards was made removable to gain access to the internal systems of this working model. The lovely flowing curves, which attracted me to the vessel initially, proved a pain to reproduce. The bends around the front corners required making each deck front separately and then gently bending heated styrene around a former to reproduce. There is much opportunity for hurling! Added a L shaped strip around the front of each deck, so there is something firm to glue the front bulwarks to. Was concerned that without something like that the individual deck shields would never line up properly. Similarly added styrene U channel along the deck edges to give a surface to which the shield side rails could be fitted. This also replicates the vertical deck edge panels that are evident in pictures. Felt this would also make the structure more robust, enabling it to be removed and refitted without damage.

Cumbrae No.1 by cumbrae Apprentice   Posted: 10 days ago
[Score: 9/10] 35"/5000g Cumbrae No.1 Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 120mins Direct Drive to a Mtronics viper15 (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (6v) 5Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Mtronics viper15 (2 of) ESC - Comments: Acquired this and several other boats from a friend whose late father had built. Extensively renovated, new electrics and drive-train, bow-thruster, and a motorised radar scanner. Cumbrae actually sported a "Bobs Board" for those of you who can remember that!!!

Sea Queen Spray Rails by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Yes you do need to fit. Can't remember the exact size but about 1/8" square should suffice. I fixed mine with epoxy and cocktail sticks pushed thro a hole drilled in the rail and hull. Make sure you seal well once finished as any water will be under pressure at speed and will find the smallest of holes! The pic of mine shows the rail just above the joint on the side skins rising slightly at the front. This was an after fit as the water was filling the cockpit at speed. Position is not too important but my model is light (brushless + LiPo) and sits high in the water. If your model floats lower you may need to fit slightly higher, its really the bit that's out of the water when planing that needs to deflect the spray.

Power Cabling by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi Neil, How many fuses do you need??? Remember, wherever you put them you need easy access to be able to change a dud fuse without taking the million screws out and removing the whole deck.🤔 I'm considering using the space next to the repositioned battery, just behind the port propshaft hull exit. Another consideration is on your mounting plate forward, but NOT at the edges as you show in your photo cos you'll never get at them when the deck is on 😉 I'm thinking of a 'bridge' across the middle (above where you have the receiver in your photo) so that the fuses protrude above the main deck. Then you can get at 'em easy 😉 I will also save space by using a UBEC to tap off the drive batt for the RX supply instead of a separate RX battery. Pics tomorrow - I hope! Cheers Doug 😎