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>> Home > Tags > port

MV TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
As the stern needed the most reshaping, decided to tackle it first. Made up a wooden insert to reflect the correct deck stern contour and glued it in between the deck supports. This would give the stern be the correct shape and length. Once that was positioned pulled the hull up tight to the supports. As the stern is approached the sharper profile of the Teakwood requires the hull sides to be pulled firmly inwards and the transom be vertical. Decided this was not going to epoxy and stay in place satisfactorily once the strain was released, so cut a series of vertical slots in the rear hull to allow it relax and squeeze it together. One slot has to be quite deep, otherwise the lower hull will crack as it will not relax sufficiently. Used the Dremel cutting disc for this. The slots need to be quite generous as the the hull has to be pulled in some distance. Once this was all epoxied in place, wrapped “cling film” around the rear of the hull and poured liquid fibreglass resin around the slots and under the insert to bond everything together. Worked this onto all the vertical and horizontal surfaces as it set. The stern is now good and rigid. The attached pictures show the new stern profile and slots. The first pictures are “as is” to illustrate the process. Further work was also needed to true up the bulwarks and disguise the slots. This mutilation may seem a brutal way of getting the hull shape correct, but had tried all kinds of pulling and squeezing of the hull, none of which held in place after the clamps were released. Once the cosmetic aspects of the stern rework were complete, established the correct location for the rudder post and fitted it. The major stern work is now finished.

Twin motor control problem by tomarack Commander   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi, I have to say - I use a simple V-tail mixer only, and ESC at the basic setting, the transmitter => Throttle and Ail only(right stick). I tried to connect Rudder servo to this design, but I could not adjust it, the servo behaved "non-standardly". That's why I have it connected to the usual rudder channel nr 4 (left stick). One more important thing ... check the settings of the transmitter, especially the mixes that are sometimes pre-programmed from the factory. It is recommended to clear the transmitter memory first, and then set your own values. It usually helps ... I use the power supply of the receiver from a single source via an external BEC, powering motors using Y cables to ESC,from the same source as BEC ( gel Aku 12V).I had setup problems too - I finally found that one ESC was defective. after replacing both ESC no problems.

LESRO Sportsman mk1 restoration by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Wow! We have a celebrity member😉 Welcome aboard. Lucky find in the junk shop, hull looks pretty much like the Sea Scout! Happy renovating, cheers Doug 😎

lesro sportsman by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Sven, try direct to Lesro models, through google search Mark

LESRO Sportsman mk1 restoration by Rhiannesdad Seaman   Posted: 4 days ago
Found this model in a junk shop in Lincolnshire , no motor or radio gear. Not done any boat modelling for many years so I took it home. The hull and cab are pretty solid for a 30 year old so i will start off by stripping the paint and giving it a freshen up, then I plan to add windows which I have cut from 3mm perspex and lower the rear deck. Also I am toying with a plan to convert the cabin into a mk2 sportsman by adding a top deck and radio mast, then finish off with a few scale figures and fittings. I will keep adding photos as I progress, if you are reading this and have a sportsman I would love to see what you have done with yours, regards, Nick.

lesro sportsman by sven-te Seaman   Posted: 4 days ago
Hello, I am the sven from germany / herford and looking for a building plan of : lesro "sportsman " from model boats to build this boat .. look directly the construction plans, I know there was as a complete kit to buy, but someone has or knows someone who still something drawings has for a replica .. my question, do you know someone who still has documents from the boat i'm looking for plans, drawings, bodyplan, scrive board or anything form the boat I'm glad about it, thank you who has something or knows can send me an e-mail

Varnish by rolfman2000 Admiral   Posted: 4 days ago
A friend of mine imports what I believe to the finest varnish ever made. They sell it online, and they did have a stand at Warwick a few years ago. Many folk in the classic car and boat trade swear by it. I have a tin in the garage awaiting use on my 46" Huntsman deck after re-planking. Hope that helps someone, cheers, Dave W 😊

Newly extended shelter by Sparkman Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 5 days ago
New recovery boat ,ready to transport to pool

Varnish by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hola Alan, Try Deluxe materials Ezekote or Clearkote. Here a possible source in Spain. Montse Martínez (Samarkanda miniaturaS) 08014 - Barcelona SPAIN Tel & Fax: (+34) 93.325.44.24 Email: Radio Control, Miniatures, Plastics and Railway FEWELL BUSINESS, S.L. Import & Export Carretera Comarcal 1413 Km. 35,5 08140 Caldes de Montbui, Barcelona SPAIN Tel. +34 938 655 830 Fax.: +34 938 655 340 Email: Good luck, Doug 😎

Brixham trawler IBEX by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Bellman My Club sail several similar boats as well as an Ibex. They are all fitted with detachable keels which are fitted prior to sailing but can be removed for transportation and display. Our sailing waters are large and exposed and without the keels the models would not be able to be sailed. On the water the keels can not be seen. I tried a long keel on my Cariad and it was not a success as the keel tended to keep the model in a straight line. I now use a detachable bulb keel. The amount of lead will depend on your model and its overall weight. The bulb keels are a fibreglass moulding that we fill with lead to bring the model to waterline after inserting fore and aft threaded rod into the bulb. You will need to have holes in the keel to let the rods thro and long enough to be above the waterline. I fit a plastic tube and wood support inside. A washer and nut hold the keel in place. Before filling with Resin weigh the resin in the tin and remove that amount of lead from the bulb. Once set I use silicon to make a good seal between the bulb and hull and which remains attached to the bulb. Attached are pics of my Cariad.

HMS Dreadnought (S101) by Airtrooper Seaman   Posted: 7 days ago
That is a big advance on anything I have Doug! HUGE thanks! Also, it has been a couple of years since I last visited the RN Submarine Museum at Gosport and I can't locate the photos I took there. They had several superb models on display, including the one shown below (not my photo). In the background is the famous painting of the launch of HMS Dreadnought, but can anyone recall whether the model is also HMS Dreadnought, or one of her half-sisters (Valiant or Warspite, both 20ft longer), or another boat?

Pond Trials!!! by Ballast Commander   Posted: 8 days ago
She Floats !!! And on her marks !!! Albeit a slight list to the Port side which is due to her open working starboard side and is a characteristic of the real deal. To say I am chuffed is an understatement after first starting the build 36 years ago !!!

web site by Trillium Commander   Posted: 8 days ago
In view of Doug's experience, we contacted Godaddy. They advised us that we need SSL certification for our site. I'm a complete novice when it comes to website design and security but I learnt two things. One is that SSL is indicated by the green padlock and the 's' in https in the address bar. The second is that it's considered vital if sensitive information is being transmitted, such as credit card data, usernames and passwords, etc. And of course, SSL costs money. A scan of the list of clubs on this website showed that only one has SSL and they are using Google Sites, Google being actively pushing for SSL on everything. We are a group of model boaters whose website is simply making available for viewing some of our activities, we are not collecting anything from visitors. In conclusion, we will not be making any changes, and so McAfee users will continue to receive the message Doug reported. Roy

M.V. TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
What to do next? Decided that the hull needed reference points from which dimensions could be established and checked. The most logical place is the peak of the bow as from this most longitudinal and vertical measurements can be established. The dodger on top of the bow interferes with such measurements, decided that as it was to be removed eventually to remove it now. Cut the dodger off with a hacksaw and then filed/sanded the forecastle bulwarks to their correct height. As the stern required several modifications decided it would be easier to implement them if that bulwark was the correct height too. Rather than laike around making relatively small areas the correct height, decided that it would be easier to get all the bulkwalks correct at the same time. Used a Dremel tool with a cutting disc. rather than a hacksaw. This is much easier, but recommend wear a mask to avoid ingesting the copious amounts of dust created. Once the major amount was removed, used a Sureform scraper and a sanding block to bring them to the correct height. As the bulwark heights were getting close to the correct size, checked measurements from the drawing and used a spirit level to make sure that not only are the heights correct they are symmetrical across the hull. This is quite time consuming, but it is important they are correct as otherwise the hull will look twisted. Once the Teakwood hull shape started to develop from the Velarde, it rather looked like a butterfly emerging from a chrysalis! Modifying a hull presents a range of problems that do not follow a logical sequence, unlike making a model from scratch. In parallel with this model am slowly doing one of the S.S. Great Britain. Whilst that is more challenging, the work flows logically from one step to the next.

Thames sailing barge Capricorn by tomarack Commander   Posted: 10 days ago
I made new little blocks for brails and I added the missing brails for main and mizzen masts.In this photos, the bowsprit is not properly fastened, only put down due to photographing. Last photo - model ready for transport...