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>> Home > Tags > port

Glazing help by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 hours ago
Hi Doug The Olympic and Titanic used 5mm and 3mm LEDs in the portholes - all illuminated. The cabins were glazed with overhead projector film, printed with the frame details then individually cut and stuck into each aperture. We had the cabin windows water jet cut so the were all the same size. I used Canopy Glue and the frames had all been acrylic spray painted. All were a close fit and stuck easily. I can appreciate your difficulty with the destroyer, I cheated with my HMS Grenville (1:96), and just cut small holes in the plating and added a dab of black paint to represent. Using the method I described with the frame on the face of the cabin leaves an aperture to glue the window into. A bead of glue will keep the window in place once dry. I find it dries quite clear and rubbery so with sufficient flat surfaces it works very well. Glue'nGlaze is tried and tested if you can get hold of some Dave

Glazing help by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 hours ago
Hi Dave, I don't propose to glue to paint! That's a lesson we learn as children with plastic kits 😉 I clean both sides first. Fitting portholes from inside the destroyer hull would have been impossible. There's also many more of 'em than on your average Fireboat or similar🤔 Patience is, or becomes, a virtue! Doug 😎 PS I know you had quite a few in your Titanic, but bigger than the 1/4" portholes in my destroyer. Did you do them individually or in strips?

Glazing help by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 hours ago
Hi Dave, I can do it that way on the Sea Scout but not so easy from inside with Glyn's ship and lots of small windows in a cramped superstructure. 🤔 In his case I would paint the ship then paint the frames separately, glue in the 'glass', then glue the whole assembly into the ship. Like I did with the portholes on HMS Hotspur. Unfortunately Glue 'n Glaze & Co didn't exist then so some ended up 'steamed up' 🤔 Doug 😎

Glazing help by glyn44 Petty Officer   Posted: 22 hours ago
I am trying to fit, well glue really, Perspex ports, with outer metal frames into my build. I'm having a real problem with it. Can some one give me the heads up on the tried and trusted method. Do I fit/glue the Perspex into the cabin and then fit and glue the outer frame on top, or glue the clear plastic into the frame and then fit into the hull. I've tried both, but always finish up with the thing falling out, or glue being visible, or both! There must be a trick of the trade that will make life easier, and make a better job than I seem to be capable of. It's the worst part of the build, for me, and it's putting me off assembling another model that has any windows! Advice greatly appreciated.

Hi there, I still can't upload photos or reply to PM's. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 hours ago
Hmmm! Looking at the specs for the HT17 it has a relatively weak processor and much less than half the memory; ROM and RAM, that most other current phones: This could be the clue to freezing photos etc. Even it's Big brother, HT17Pro, has twice as much. This would also prevent installing Android 7 Nougat, it's just not man enough! Thus you have 2 possibilities- 1 Stop or dump all Apps you don't need, you can also shift some to an SD card, although I note that the HT17 may not support more than a 32 or 64 GB card🤔 2 Spend more than 60 quid on a phone with a faster processor and decent size memory; min 16GB. 🤔 Good luck, Doug 😎

Billings Sea King in need of TLC by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Nice job Captain 👍👍 Although! I would adjust the alignment of the port engine if I was you! 😉 Cheers Doug 😎

Hi there, I still can't upload photos or reply to PM's. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Aha! interesting clue about freezing photos! Missed that 🤔 You can free up a lot of operating memory by stopping or deleting loads of Apps which otherwise run in the background, whether you need or want them or not! Go to the Applications Manager via Settings. Doing this on my Samsung (and previous Nokia E7) solved a similar problem with photos by MMS and prolonged the battery life enormously 😊 Many Apps regularly 'log in' and check for updates, or report where you are etc., without you noticing. This wastes lots of power 😲 Cheers Doug 😎

find of the day by marky Commander   Posted: 2 days ago
Alas no porn only a box of boaty bits ,the charity shop was in Portobello near Edinburgh the woman in the shop wasnt sure what it was and thought it was "one of these new fangled 3D jigsaws "i concurred that this must be the case if i had been playing with my Scottish head on i might have got it for a tenner Marky

DAMEN STAN 4207 by RHBaker Admiral   Posted: 4 days ago
This video supports my concluding blog, # 20.

smart phone problems by rolfman2000 Commander   Posted: 4 days ago
Have you tried downloading the Model Boats App from the App Store and letting your phone use that ? I hate to say it, but the S3 is quite an old phone which might be out of support by now, but I do not know with any certainty. I'm sorry, but that's all I can think of. Best wishes, Dave W 😊

Logos etc by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Both, I just bought some transfer paper for inkjets via Amazon. Actually came from a UK supplier, couldn't find any in Germany ?🤔 20 A4 sheets for € 15.68. Good instructions how to stop them smearing, keep your fingers off until they are really really dry and set, and how to transfer and seal them. Gloss or matt varnish, or there are also proprietary transfer 'Fixers'. haven't tried 'em yet cos the sea Scout hull ain't that far yet! Will report in the Sea Scout BR blog. Cheers Doug 😎

Springer Pusher Tug by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Allen, the Zippkits Springer is a reasonable, cheap model, there are better, but usually from plans, several in my club no bad reports etc. A 600 size motor and 12 volt sla seems to do the job well. Mark

propshafts by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi Dave, Yep, agree, to a certain extent. I have also had surprising results with 385 / 400 sizes; for instance with my 110cm heavy and cramped submarine. On the surface it outruns most boy racers 😁 Not exactly scale but all good fun. A little down angle on the forward planes and it throws up a beautiful handlebar moustache of water 😊 Not too much angle at speed or it sticks it's tail in the air 😲 No, the main question was that Fred already has the 700s so I simply suggested a decent match, 5mm shaft and so on. If he wants to spend on more motors fine. the the 3mm shaft would surely save weight, mostly through the smaller tube. Don't know the rest of the detail of the boat; beam, draft, safe waterline etc, but I would have thought a 3 footer would have a reasonable carrying capacity, like my 3 and 4 foot warships. Most of those run on multiple Speed 600s. And there I have the usual warship high length to beam ratio and associated stability problems! Like I said; he pays his money and takes his choice. Personally I would give it a whirl with the 700s since they are in the box! Maybe though with a 3 or 4mm shaft and appropriate coupling so he can adapt later if he wants to. Would still think a pair of 35 props would do the trick. Whatever, have fun Fred. Look forward to the Sea trials Report! (Wrote, read and commented enough of 'em in my old job!) Cheers Doug 😎 Oh no! Yet another thunderstorm just started, my terrace is already swamped 🤔

propshafts by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Any time👍 If you're not making a racer out of her but a Gent's Runabout 2x35mm 3 blade will probably do the job nicely at 7.2V. The sintered bearings will probably also do the trick, keep 'em lubricated! Happy sailing 😎 Shaft alignment will be important, as always! Avoid using double jointed couplings, they waste power and create wear and noise 😡 Minimum flexibility and maximum alignment 👍

KeilKraft 1974 by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Its nice to see that people are willing to support the old style models and make the boat instead of just assembling it