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>> Home > Tags > port

Fiberglassing by Trillium Commander   Posted: 18 hours ago
I have been puzzled by conflicting statements on the web, some stating that adding resin and fibreglass will strengthen wooden construction, and others stating that it will not. For my own understanding I did some tests, which others may find interesting. These are not by any means scientific, and meant only as a guide for me in model construction. The results show that coating balsa with resin and fibreglass cloth does strengthen it. For those who want to see more detail, these are the results. Three separate strips of balsa, each 18" long by 1.5" wide were cut from a single sheet 36" long by 3" wide, 3/32" (2.4mm) thick. Each strip was placed on top of two supports 10" apart. A load was applied in increments to the centre of the span. After testing each strip in its uncoated condition, each one was coated with Deluxe Materials Eze-Kote resin, according to the maker's instructions, and a layer of fibreglass cloth applied on each side. The cloth was a piece I had spare so I don't know what weight it was, but I estimate between 1 and 1.5 oz per sq yd. After coating each strip was tested again. The results are shown in the chart. The lower the deflection when loaded, the stronger the strip. Although all strips were cut from one sheet, strip 3 was clearly stiffer and stronger than the other two in its uncoated state. It benefited least from the addition of the fibreglass. Strips 1 and 2 showed a significant increase in strength.

DAMEN STAN 4207 by RHBaker Admiral   Posted: 2 days ago
First open water test went well, but with two caveats: 1) Would like to increase performance somewhat, closer to her looks. The initial tests of the unfinished hull showed adequate performance. As the detail and superstructure have been added, it has deteriorated. The increased weight of over 2 lbs has increased draft and wetted area, thus drag. 2) The bow is slightly low. Decided the best way to improve performance would be to increase the NiMh battery output from 7.2 to 9.6 volts. Thus added two more cells to the forward “C” cell holder. Also increased the LED resistor capacity and added a voltage reducer to avoid burning out the lights and bow thruster at this new voltage. By examining the drawings and the model layout decided to tackle the second by moving the forward battery carrier from just in front of, to just behind, the centre of gravity. Fortunately the Damen drawings show the C of G location. This increased the stern draught by about 1/4”, with the bow similarly decreased. Also reduced the stern ballast to about 3 oz. A further open water test showed an nice improvement in speed with the model now sitting on the waterline. Running time exceeds an hour, she also looks trim and purposeful. Think this is about as fast as an 9.6 NiMh installation will operate. Adding more cells will increase weight, adding to the draught. Am toying with trying a LI-PO installation in the future. This will provide increased voltage with a weight reduction, but rather costly though. Have decided to enjoy the model as she currently is; there is plenty to look at with the working fire hydrant, the bow thruster, the work and navigation lights. Will concentrate on launching and making the RIB operate, have some ideas on how to do this and will report in due course.

Jet Sprint Boat by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi The mould is looking good. Are the open cockpit sides sloping up from the floor to the top? I know you intend to use silicon and if this can be freed from the plaster support then removal should be OK. However if you can't I suspect removing the rear cockpit area may be difficult. Looking forward to seeing how you progress Dave

Rivet spacing by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Luuuuv the colour 😡 When I need such a template, e.g. porthole or stanchion spacing etc, I make it from 2 or 3mm alu on the milling machine, somehow the damn thing's got to pay for itself! 😎

Er slight Problem by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Dave I don't think I am that but we did a build blog and the pics are from that. Yes you do need to support the frames and keel and plank equally on each side and wait until the glue has dried before removing. No stringers needed as 1/4 ply frames screwed to the baseboard. Once planked the inside was fibreglassed and the outside covered in glass cloth so the structure was very light and robust for a 9' model. Hope you manage to get your hull made on the next attempt. Dave

Er slight Problem by Pav403 Commander   Posted: 5 days ago
Hello Dave, Thank you for the advice, have you written a book as you are the oracle :) I was using 4mm balsa for the walls but I think when applying I've not had the frames back in a solid / secure support? Lesson learnt now, the frame is staying in their secure mounts until I am satisfied it's not warping. One thing I did notice with you models of Titanic and Olympic was the lack of stringers, I take it the frames were thick enough and the Balsa thin you did not need any lateral support? Again thank you for your advice on this one. Regards Dave

Worcester Model Boat Club Open Day by cormorant Captain   Posted: 5 days ago
Our recently established, but rapidly expanding club, is holding its first open day at Cob House Country Park, Worcester Road, Wichenford, Worcester WR6 6YE. Our stand will be part of a Vintage Vehicle Day, organised by our hosts As well as a static display, there will also be the opportunity to sail on the lake, which adjoins all the amenities of the Mayfly Cafe. Parking is free and the cafe overlooks the lake. For more information please visit our website or contact us at

12 volt motors to esc,s by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Steve, As your ESCs have an ON/OFF switch for the BEC (orange and red twisted wires) leave one of them SWITCHED OFF! Unless you want to use a separate RX batt. In that case switch 'em BOTH OFF! To drive both ESCs from one RX port: plug the ESCs into the sockets of the Y cable and the plug end into your usual throttle output channel of the RX. Don't forget to reverse the power leads on one motor, or the FUSES! Doug 😎

Er slight Problem by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi When you started the build I saw that you had a good strong flat board and had supported the keel in several places. It looked as though it was all going well until you started to skin the hull with very heavy balsa(?). When applying skins the hull does need to be supported at all times and skins applied equally to both sides at the same time. Wood has a nasty habit of shrinking as it dries, and doing equal planking on both sides helps compensate. When we built the Titanic and Olympic the hulls were built upside down and remained on the build board until all planking was complete. We used 4mm balsa sheets. and covered inside and out with fibreglass matting and cloth. To use this method you need to extend each former so that the hull is level to the board with a gap at the bottom when you have finished. Couple of pics attached may help explain. Good luck with the rebuild Dave

3 Footer on a very rare outing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Martin I was just sharing a bit more info for the benefit of our members. I never said they were quick but did seek to support your view that they were not like the faster recovery vessels. I agree some models are sailed at over scale speed but each to their own and if it attracts new modellers to the hobby all the better. We can always try to interest them in more sedate models once they tire of racing round the lake. Dave

Donald by Midlife306 Commander   Posted: 11 days ago
I'll be putting some thin fibreglass over him & then dig out the body so I can fit servos to give him head movement. The Mrs went out shopping this morning so I popped upstairs, I can't miss a golden opportunity 😂👍 I'll see if I can buy a 1/4 scale Mr Whoppit. Cheers Wayne

Taycol Pt 3. New Brushes Pt1 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi Dave, Martin, from eyeballing 4BA looks about right. A 5.5mm nut spinner just about fits! Meccano is a good tip, I've got an ancient set kicking around somewhere. I'll go exploring in the cellar. If I don't report back within a week please send search party! 😉 Maybe she growls and protests more at higher voltages, at the moment it's just a quiet hum. Haven't pushed my luck yet! Cheers Doug. 😎 Good luck with Proxxon Dave. I was wondering how you ended up with 120V coils!? Bought in USA ??

HMS Illustrious Aircraft carrier by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Hi, there's also a gantry running underneath and of course the girder work supporting the roll down. here's a somewhat later pic, Landing On view. On my Ark Royal plan it's very similar. cheers Doug 😎 PS Note Blackburn Buccaneers on deck!

Counter Rotating Props by epmbcmember Petty Officer   Posted: 12 days ago
I have always know propellers as left or right handed and on a single screw ship they nearly always turn clockwise looking from aft. Can be very handy if you know which is which as when approaching a berth on the port side at an angle with a right handed prop a good kick astern will put you flat alongside if you time it right. Done it many times with the real thing on all sizes of vessel. Can very often upset the Captain!!! but if timed right it works a treat.

Taycol Pt 3. New Brushes Pt1 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Hi Dave, Address and link (English!) to German Service centre PROXXON GmbH Service Centre Industriepark Region Trier Dieselstraße 3-7 D-54343 Föhren / Germany Agent / Service Centre in GB is Export partner Great Britain BriMarc Tools & Machinery Unit 10 Weycroft Avenue Axminster Devon EX13 5PH Tel.: +44 333 240 69 67 Fax: +44 333 240 69 76 Email: URL: Hope this helps. Cheers Doug 😎