Hi Will, Sounds good to me👍 I like the Action Electroncs stuff as well, have their dual ESC with rudder mixer which I want to try in my long thin destroyer to reduce the turning radius. Was misled about the SLA by a previous post🤔 Makes sense re the BEC which I believe is 5V 1.2A. I prefer a separate RX batt anyway😉 BUT: if you run a 6V NiMh down to 5.6V you are close to the Deep Discharge zone which will seriously damage the battery and drastically shorten it's life 😲 Threshold voltage is 1.0V per cell, so take erratic control as a warning that the battery is flat and come home soon! Look forward to your Sea Trials report. Cheers, Doug
Problem with Raboesch props, Doug (apart from cost) is that they're very scale boatish. I will need something a bit sporty and 2 bladed. I could make one, of course, but have no idea where to start shapewise apart from copy a real fast runabout prop. Silver soldering a prop ain't a problem for me. It's a damned faff though! Here's the boat I'm kinda modelling the Sea Hornet mods on. Cheers, Martin
Hi all, Needing to consider aluminium solder I looked it up and there seems to be something new around. It's only 300 degree C solder and fluxless. Cheapish too. I've ordered some and will report back. "Film...at 11" as they say. I'm thinking it could be ideal for the stern corners of the Hornet II model. My alternative was to make a press tool, which I didn't really want to get involved in. Apparently with this stuff you can even use a big soldering iron for smaller bits. The beauty of 300 C is there's no risk of melting the object being soldered and they claim there's no difference in hardness, elasticity, brittleness, etc, so clean up is easy, all objections to the original ally solder. I once used the original with complete success, then next time, complete failure. Maybe this new stuff will be the answer to a maiden's prayer, as my Dad would have said. Cheers, Martin
From April to October, weather permitting, you will find members enjoying scale boat and sailing sessions from 18:00 until sunset generally on Tuesday,Thursday and Sunday evenings weather permitting., (Parking is easy in the adjacent car park and free after 18:00). 24 Hr Parking is free on both sides of the adjacent road "Inner Promenade" Come along and have a chat and maybe have a go yourself. Membership for 2017 remains at £10 per annum and includes insurance ! The yachting members sail mainly Dragon-force, RC Lasers and Victoria Yachts also hosting National events attracting large turn outs to the scenic location. More recently the club have use of the newly re-furbished park building positioned next to the lake complete with high quality kitchen and other facilities. The building is already used to support sailing open events and regular opening times are now a real possibility with the support of Fylde Borough Council. The active scale model section attends shows often by invitation across the North West supporting charity fund raising events for the Life Boat service and others.
Have added reinforcing to the frame supporting the end of the shaft tubes, 3 pictures show dry fit. and once dry glue in shafts with epoxy resin, 3 pictures of fixed shaft tubes. Now looking at an extra part frame to support the three motor brushless out-runners.
Hi Martin, would have thought the name was self explanatory! 😉 In the attached pic you can see my Robbe Servo Tester at the top. I used it to simulate the proportional signal from a receiver while testing your Taycol converter boards, not to power the motor.😲 Motor power came from the mains PSU in pic two, the battery eliminator circuit (BEC) in the ESC provided power to the tester. The tester provides the signal to drive servos, or in this case an ESC, and saves the faff of setting up TX and RX and fiddling with batteries when I want to test a circuit or function before building it into a boat. Cheers, Doug 😎 Oh, and by the way; when you get into lighting for your boats don't forget to buy an LED Tester as well 😁😁 You could also think about a simple RF Detector / Meter to check if your TX is actually transmitting 😁 Like I did with your TX using a home brew device - OR you could wait til I get around to publishing a Build Blog for the refined version I am making using a couple of RF diodes and a sensitive 300microamp meter 😊
MEKO 200SAN, Blohm + Voss, nice ships, know the MEKOs well. Was often at B+V, worked on the next version, MEKO 200AN for the Algerian navy, I designed the integrated COMMS system for them😉 You've built a great very representative model there, well done👍 Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW: might have an idea how you can do the 'sequential' with a few microswitches😉 More later when I've thought out the details. How are you operating the doors and the heli mover at the TX? Switches or proportional stick / pot?
Dry fitting pro-shafts (Note, all shafts parallel with the keel) Drilled with an old prop-shaft which I modified to a cutting tool then finished with a round file and cut slots for propeller-shaft support bracket with a hacksaw, file and knife. Note these shafts are lightweight aluminium tube with steel liners and steel shafts. props at currently 40mm but as with all things scale things are not always practical in scale size such as propellers and rudders and in this case the direction of rotation (not all going round clockwise).
I am after some information on the ELCO 80ft 103 class, I have gathered conflicting data on the positon of the three rudders relative to the propeller shafts. Some say inline, others say outboard of shafts. Port and starboard shafts of early examples were set 47inches from the centre line (keel). The Italeri plastic kit shows them in line. I have seen pictures of a latter boats were the rudders are not directly behind the propellers but not sure about early boats like the 103 class.
If the boat has 2 rudders I usually install the props-clockwise on the starboard side and counter clockwise on the port side. If the boat has a single rudder-clockwise on port and counter clockwise on starboard.I find it produces better control when you reverse.
Evenin' Neville, Yes go for 3 blade cast (not soldered) brass props, one LH, one RH. Jury is still out on which should be port and which starboard😉 Size I'm not sure of, my 28" twin shaft PTB has 35mm props, which I may reduce depending on the sea trial results, so I'd guess your 44" boat may need something larger, perhaps 40-42mm? Hope the drivers of larger Fireboats and such pick this up and can advise! All the best, Doug 😎
Going back to your query RNinMunich, something over thirty years of my life was as an engineer officer in the RN. Half in sea going appointments and the other half spent mainly directing ship support and maintenance. Great times!! I spent a bit more time today reading up about DF systems. Loop antenna on Wikipedia was interesting. It seems to me that a simple manual DF loop would be a feasible option for the teardrop; it was certainly that on many varied aircraft at that time (inc the Wellington). Also, thinking about the size of the teardrop, it may be small for a DF loop, but comparing it to the other navigation lights, it's really too small to be one of them! I love chasing all over the net trying to find positive solutions to little mysteries!