Hi, I use a Samsung, and have been having problems viewing and posting with this phone for ages. Once on the website, a real annoying advert appears on the left, covering 2/3 of the screen, I cant get rid of it, and when trying to post, this screen as I type isn't visible, making the whole experience pretty awful. I know this is dumb user issues, But I cant fix it, can anyone help please!😭
You beat me to mentioning this, Doug You are quite correct the Boat Harbour section of the Forum is for members to show their finished models as well as give details of the power set up etc. A picture is really needed to show off the model in all its glory. If you are able to posts in the Build Blog section are very welcome and do produce encouraging and helpful responses from members, who also benefit from seeing how others tackle their builds. There are other specific sections where members can post to share experiences or seek help for specific topics. Some members use Tablets or Mobile devices to view and it could be Stephen may need to make it easier for these users to access the relevant sections and post pictures. All posts are welcome but pictures do add greatly to the impact, and I suggest that any member who has a problem posting, sends Fireboat, Stephen a pm so he can address the issue. happy building and posting Dave
Hi Ron Its food wrap as shown by Doug. I am posting some pics of a very rough set up to illustrate the process. I have used some white tissue to illustrate the white bath sealant but I think you will get the idea. The mounting blocks need to be wide enough to take any screw fixing you choose to use and can be mounted direct to the hull. Make a plate shaped to the motor diameter to hold and use some soft rubber or similar in between the plate and motor. Dont place this until the silicon has set and you have refitted the motor. I align by connecting the motor to the shaft and gently pushing into the silicon until level. Use a low voltage battery to make sure it runs freely. Then leave to set, could be a couple of days if cold before carefully removing the motor with film. Remove film and refit. As mentioned make sure any cooling holes on the motor are not blocked. Hope this helps but please ask if you need clarification. Dave
Hi Colin. Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your good choice of model 👍. I bought all of the brass pins I used from a UK based eBay seller http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOLID-BRASS-PANEL-PINS-15mm-20mm-2... I can't imagine that something similar would not be available in Oz, try a good joinery or cabinet makers supply outlet. I mostly used the 15mm size and used, quite surprisingly, a total of around 500 😱. These pins have a tapered head rather than a flat one so that they can be punched flush, or just below the surface of the wood very easily. This is important when pinning the side and bottom skins so that the pin hole can be filled and sanded to give a very smooth surface for finishing. Also, when pinning the thin wood strips always pre-drill the wood to stop the wood from splitting. I'm not sure if CMB supply this type but Javro, who replied earlier, may be able to confirm this. Good luck with the build and please do think about posting a build blog on this site and ask as many questions as you need to. As I discovered, the help and advice you will get will be invaluable. Rob.
Hi guys, I started my aeronaut pilot last week and have made some quick progress so have decided to make a build log! All my updates are on youtube as I have been filming time lapse videos as i go along so i will be posting the links as I post the videos. Any questions or similar please feel free to as as im sure I will have a few to ask myself! Yours Tintin😊
Hi cliff Now I understand. It's always interesting to see how other modellers connect their drive shafts and I hope this solution works for you. The model is looking good and the detail will certainly add to the character. As you are making most of the fittings I do hope you will keep posting your progress. Dave
Thanks Martin, I had already seen the Kent screens on Keith's site but the largest he does is only 10mm which is too small for my 1/12 scale model so I ended up scratch building one. I'll be posting a blog update on that shortly. Rob
Hi Bill. Congratulations on your first posting...don't be shy. Being a larger model, at 1/12 the scale, the detailing is probably easier as a result. Now get back to that corvette and get a build blog going 😁 Robbob.
The aft cockpit deck has two drain holes on the real boat that discharge through a pair of outlets on the transom if the boat takes on any water in the cockpit well. On my model the drains are not connected to the outlets, that’s taking the scale accuracy a bit too far 😜, nevertheless I don’t want a couple of holes in my deck letting in water so I need to fill them in with some drain gratings. I made these from some 10mm thick wall brass tubing and some 2mm brass rod. First I filed three narrow slots into the end of the brass tube about half the thickness of the brass rod and soft soldered them into the slots. The rod was then filed flush to the top of the tube to flatten the profile and form the grating slots, and the overhang filed flush with the tube sides. I used a pipe cutter to separate the finished piece from the brass tube and then repeated the process for the second fitting. The grating needs to be blocked so that It doesn’t let water through and I did this by forming a disc out of black plasticard the same diameter as the tube bore as a stopper and filling the base with epoxy to form the seal, the finished drains were then glued into the deck panel flush with the planking. I used some 1.5mm brass rod bent and fashioned to form the handles for the hatches and these were fixed with epoxy through holes in the panel. Another brass feature on the deck are the rivets around the battery hatch, these are actually some domed rivets with a 2mm head and 1mm shaft that I bought online from RB Models (Poland) along with some other excellent items from their range of ships fittings. www.rbmodel.com Finally the deck panel and main hatch cover were sprayed with several coats of satin lacquer. The panel will need some further work to incorporate the towing hook stays and I’ll cover that in another posting.
The last few images . I still have a fair bit to do yet more deck lights winches and tidy and touch up all the paintwork. But for now I will set it aside until I have all the running gear sorted. Then start posting on this thread again.. Hopefully it will be all finished soon and sailing about. In the meanwhile using the very same hull for another build While not disturbing any of the fixtures and fitting on the deck..
[Score: 8/10] 24"/1200g Sweet❤️❤️❤️Heart Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 30mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type) Geared to a Graupner (2 Blade X Type) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) Batteries - Comments: The boat can be seen on YouTube, https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=eanimqiOh54 No leaks. Stable and balanced. Paint is acrylic, clear-coated wood is mahogany. This is a Nor-Star Kingfisher kit with some alterations and added details.