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Model Boats Website Team
February 2019: 8 people January 2019: 16 people December 2018: 6 people November 2018: 11 people October 2018: 9 people September 2018: 13 people August 2018: 5 people July 2018: 8 people June 2018: 8 people May 2018: 7 people April 2018: 9 people
Good Morning Chief Petty Officer. Glad to hear of some enquiry about air boats. I built a few of these in the mid to late 1960s and they were great fun. I powered them with engines like the Cox Babe Bee up to a Frog 150R diesel. All were free running of course and it was either a keep fit excercise to try and catch them before they hit the bank across the lake or in most cases there was always a good person ready to perform the "save".. Due to political correctness and the environment. the I.C powered versions are consigned to history . Them days we didnt have shrouds over the airscrews. Best method of securing a shroud is to use ZAP Z-Poxy Resin. It is durable, water resistant and can be bought from good model shops and is a two pack. One bottle contains the resin and the other the hardner. Its a 50/50 mix and you can purchase a range of them with various setting times. 😎Boaty
Ed, Good to see you found what you need. I like to use the 6 volts in my tugs as well. My original thinking was that I like to keep my 550 motors running at a lower rpm. The tugs should be slow and powerful, not a speedboat! Good luck completing the work. Joe
Good Morning, Gary: (It's Morning somewhere!) I have been interested in steam for a considerable time, and even have an article stashed away on making a turbine for a model of the SS Savannah, which is, after all, a steamship with a nuclear powered boiler. My own work has been limited (mostly by budget) to the Midwest Models single cylinder steam engine, and I have a "Fantail Launch" kit ready for some upgrades and installation of the steam engine. Stay with us, as I am sure, as already stated by others, that there are interested members of the forum, and you will pick up more when they see you are not just talking about a little pop-pop boat running in circles. (I do have one of those, as well. I had one when I was much younger, but it is little more than a memory these days.)
Hi I am using a Blue Rain esc rated at 60 amp 480 amp stall current .Has all the features of the viper plus a finned heat sink and cooling fan . Powers 2 black and decker 600 drill motors with Graupner series 162 props motors approx £3.50 and esc £6.43 All on E BAY Or motors can be had from Potts in Derby .The motors draw 30 amps at full speed and I use a 5000 3 cell lipo The expensive bit Hobbyking supplied .The boat is a Jules Verne Cheers Ian T
BTW: I grew up with valves (or bottles as we Brits also call 'em) as well. I still have a box of several vintage 'bottles' in the cellar, many of them new still in the original boxes. If you ever run out of triodes, pentodes or tetrodes give me a buzz! Think I still have some pristine EL80s - collectors items these days - lots of Oomph 😁 My next non-model boat electronic project is a pair of digital clocks in 'Art Deco' cases, using bottle decade counters. The forerunners of the fluorescent tubes and then the LED clocks, but much more fun😉. About forty years ago I spent a year or so servicing and calibrating the radiation monitors around UK nuke power plants using these decade counters. One cosmic radiation click = one jump in the base counter and so on. Never ever saw anything above the basic cosmic radiation background count which is always there. A remnant of the 'Big Bang'. 😲 Funny where an interest in electronics and radio can getcha 😁 Look forward to your chimney experiment report👍 My destroyer has two funnels but I found that the little railway smokers were not man enough to feed two funnels via a branched tube. But two working in parallel off the one RC channel did the trick. Regarding the chimney effect; Works well at rest or at low speeds, but I also found that instead of a fan some traditional air vent scoops mounted forward of the smoker augmented the effect well at higher speeds. And my long thin destroyer with 2 x 540s on 12V made a lot of 'speed boats' look silly 😁 Have fun, ciao, Doug 😎
Good stuff Joe👍 Detail of the smoker please! That's the trouble / fun with ship modelling, so many possibilities. The only limit (within weight and available power considerations) is imagination and ingenuity. I've even seen a tug on which a cabin door opens, a sailor comes out and pees over the side😲😁 Some crew would liven up your boat. And a horn? Working winch and towing tackle? Crane? Radar? Signalling lamp? ... I once fitted a working monitor on a boat - just to keep inquisitive kids with sticky fingers at bay! BTW; fires DO do VERY WELL on boats; all that paint and other inflammable material!🤔 Cheers, Doug 😎
After the Christmas break its back to the cabin to finish some of the instrument detail. You may recall I detailed the cockpit with some ply constructions to represent the general layout; I also intend to detail the compass, throttle controls, steering wheel, panel lighting, and instrument panel. The instrument panel was copied and scaled from various drawing and pictures and I came up with a three-panel unit where panels 1 & 3 are identical as they are for the two-engine managements system the centre panel deals with electrical things. I intend to make the panel out of 1.5 mm aluminium cut to size on the guillotine I then attached this to a hardwood block with some strong double sided tape this will be more than strong enough to hold the piece for the drilling/light milling operation. I worked out the hole positions using an absolute datum (same as CNC work, if only I was still working) This does take some time using my rather old milling machine making sure any backlash is taken out during the 28 linear movements. I used various sizes of centre drills to produce the holes as they give not only accurate size but also perfectly round holes on thin material and the only ones that needed to be a particular size (6mm dial holes) the others are for switches and LEDs which can all be a 3 mm location hole. Each hole was drilled and then chamfered to simulate a bezel on the dials. Finally, I milled a shallow groove (2mm x 0.3 deep) to simulate the separate panels. I have copied a number of different marine dials from the internet and using PowerPoint I aligned in a complete group and then printed and laminated them, this will be placed behind the aluminium plate using double-sided tape. Having fixed the dials in place I drilled through the holes where LEDSs will fit. The LEDs will be shortened and polished so they are flat to the face; these are then stuck in place. Next, I made all the switches from brass bar with a fine brass pin glued across its face to simulate the lever. These were painted gloss black and the centre pin picked out in red, they were then glued into the 3 mm location hole. The black knobs/pull switches were turned out of black Perspex and polished; they were then glued into the location holes. The whole instrument panel is then pinned on to the wooden framework which has been left in natural wood finish (ply) as it looks like the original boat was just a varnished ply finish.
Captain's Log: Well, I order new batteries for the Tug Brooklyn. I placed the order about a week ago. I received them last night! Before I continue let me say this. I was using the Batteries from Tug Serenity AKA Jersey City! Those Batteries are 6 Volts at 2.5 Amps! For a total of two! I saw what I thought were the same battery. Only at 6 Volts at 8 Amps. For a total of 12 Volts at 8 Amps! Well the batteries are huge! I had to take all of the Forward ballast out of Tug Brooklyn! Even then she's a bit bow heavy. But, I really want the extra Power! Because Tug Brooklyn is a 12 Volt Tugboat! Take a look at the Batteries side by side. It's a good thing there's enough room in her forecastle! I'm putting the Batteries end to end and they fit! Oh, the Batteries weigh 6.5 LBS!😱
Ahoy Maties! It's been a long time since my last posting. Happy 2019! I just completed my new scratch-built boat "Electric Barbarella". I tried to recreate (with some liberties) one of my favorite boats of all time, the 30-footer Chris Craft Sportsman built during the 1970s. It measures 24 X 8.5 inches. It is powered with a 9.6 NiMH 4200 mAh battery "nunchuck" pack (like the one used for paintball guns), brushless motor attached to a 30A Mtroniks Hydra controller and a 30mm M4 3-bladed brass propeller. The hull (my own on-the-go design) was made out of Balsa wood which later I fiberglassed. For the superstructure I utilized 2mm ABS plastic sheet material. To my surprise the boat turned to be a very stable and forgiving platform. I really feel a very close connection to this vessel as it is my first own hull design.😁
Ron Great to hear about this. I had a Kingfisher in 1972, powered by a DC Sabre 1.49 marine diesel. The engine was mounted just aft of the windscreen and it needed a a lot of ballast . With such a small engine and the additional weight the performance was mediocre. Is this kit in production again? If it is I might build one . Maybe this time I will fit a brushless running on lipos . This will give the model the performance it deserves. Boaty😁
There's no great need to dismantle a servo to get motive power - nowadays you can buy model motors that are not much thicker than a typical boat propshaft, and speed controllers the size of a thumbnail. Usually for about a pound. These small drones have really helped in this regard. This one, for instance, is 0.6cm diameter by 1.5cm long - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Original-JJRC-H20-RC-Drone-H20-08... Your biggest problem will usually be rudder control - there will be little room for a servo and tiller right at the stern of small boats. For an EeZeBilt I recommend a closed loop system which lets you relocate the servo anywhere convenient - see http://eezebilt.tk/radio.html The EeZeBilt Terrier below is 10.75 inches long...
Absolutely Steve 👍 Alternative is to make a holder for the magnet to prevent it getting knocked off by weeds etc. Also agree that any Failsafe' circuits must have an independent power supply. Place to put the switch, or latching relay, is definitely in place of the little slide switch usually supplied on the ESC. Just checked on some of my ESCs, Graupner and mTroniks, the red lead to the switch is NOT connected to the red lead supplying the RX and servos via the built in BEC. Guess the switch just triggers an FET switch inside the ESC. So the normal 500mA limit of reed switches will be enough. If a latching relay is used make sure the pull-in current is less than 500mA. Have fun All, cheers, Doug 😎 Eric; which sub is your mate building? I have a Type 1A U-Boat dynamic diver, speed and planes only, and a kit for an Akula 2 which will be a static diver, with tank etc.
1 - I concur with figtree7nts. You don't want a long length of unsupported floppy tube transmitting power. You will see that my illustrations show the unsupported tube to be very short. 2 - You also want thick tube to transmit power. if you have thin 2-3mm tube that will easily kink. I make my own connectors at the ends of each shaft to bring the internal tube diameter up to about 6-8mm. 3 - If you want to try a quick fix for what you have, I would suggest putting a small piece of wood or plastic inside the unsupported section of your tube, which will stop it collapsing when it is twisted. This may work if the torque is not high. And it's a quick, cheap thing to try. 4 - if you want to try making your own, you could get something like this - check the correct shaft size - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brass-Hexagon-Flexible-Coupling-C... or this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Coupling-Inserts-for-RC-Models-Va... and then buy a length of something like this - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1M-Food-Grade-Clear-Translucent-S... checking the diameters that you need, of course... Here is a similar Eezebilt to your craft. It's the OSA Missile boat. You can see that the unsupported length of silicone is short, and this boat at 32 inches takes quite a lot of power...
[Score: 5/10] 36"/2900g RNZAF W1 Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 40mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 25mm) Direct Drive to a TGY 28/45 2000KV INRUNNER (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through CHINA (5Amps) ESC - Comments: 36" Scratch built model of RNZAF W1, a British Power Boat 64ft HSL. Has twin brushless motors, twin ESCs, twin sound units, water cooling pump, full lighting and r/c switches for lights and pump. Took approx 5 yrs to buid on and off. hull is strip planked and f/glassed, deck is ply, wheel house is balsa.
Three weeks ago I got a Proboat Sonicwake deep V fast electric. This appears to be a replacement for their previous model Vorocity. Very interesting self righting method with a water tank on the port side, slots in the deck and a large exit point at the stern. Idea is that if it capsizes, water will enter through the slots and as it draws the boat under, the air trapped in the hull will self right it. If the boat is stationary in the water, it will list to port due to water entering through the stern outlet and when power is applied it will empty out. Bit scary to watch at first as I thought the boat was on its way to Davy Jones. I use waterproof marine clear tape to seal around the hatch ever time I use it. The quality of the hull raises a few concerns. This relates to its ABS construction as the vast majority of similar boats at that price are made of fibreglass which is much more rigid and would be more suitable for the high speeds. Makers claim it does 50 MPH plus on 6S lipos. The electrics however are excellent with the exception of the external quality of the Horizon Hobby STX2 TX which looks a bit "toyish". For myself, this is not relevant as I replace all my wheel TXs with the "stick type" and I found that the Futaba T2HR fulfils all requirements and worked well when I sailed the boat. I have not yet changed the stock prop for an Octura one, the latter works great on my Blackjack 29 with a noticeable increase in performance. The motor is a Dynamite Marine W.C brushless 1900 KV with a 120 amp W.C ESC . 😁😋 Boaty.