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>> Home > Tags > power boat

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LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 hours ago
Hi Pete, Number 1, Get yourself some more batteries! You'll want a spare at the pond anyway 😉 Better still, get a variable mains power supply for such bench tests so you don't have to mess with batteries until you're on the pond! Here in Munich I got a Basetech 30V 5A regulated PSU for less then the price of a decent boat kit. See 2nd pic, shows mine during my test of a converted field coil motor to make it run forwards and backwards. it saves a lot of faffing about with batteries for a quick test of a circuit😉 Get one where you can set a current limit down to mAmps so you don't risk blowing components, e.g. LEDs! Re Connectors: if you are going to make a little distribution board for the lights then why not use this for all connections to the superstructure? I.e. first solder all the wires from the circuit board into the input end of your Veroboard. At the output end solder a strip of 1/10" pitch connector pins. Try Radio Shack! For each output to lamps, smoker etc you can then use the little 2 pin JST plugs. See pic. Type JST-RCY. Try Googling them. Sure you can get these from any half decent Online RC supplies shop over there. They are often used in Park Flyer planes etc. Doing it that way you only have half the wires to squash into the tiny plugs 😉 As soon as we have the voltage readings we can work out the connections and resistors etc for your little board. Happy measuring😁 Looking forward to your sketch. Cheers, Doug 😎

Seaplane Tender 360 by Bryan-the-pirate Commander   Posted: 3 days ago
Having identified the boat the restoration starts... I was given the boat about 10 years ago but had done nothing with it. Finally I decided it was it's turn to be made operational. With the help of many on here the boat was identified as a kit built seaplane tender belonging to the RAF. Once it was established as a 41.5 ft version I looked at their history and decided that 360 had the best story having been loaned to the SOE during the war and had taken part in some agent landings and recoveries. The Boat was built in the late 50s/early 60s as a pond boat powered by 3 Every ready cardboard wrapped 4.5 batteries in series powering a Bassett lowke marine motor. Steered by a sprung set rudder. The decision to try and keep the finish as original as possible was easy but throws up some problems. I want radio control in the boat and have a nice large cabin to house it in but the rudder has no significant stem to attach a servo to so a new rudder is needed with an above waterline shaft. The Motor... Do I use that one or replace it with something modern. The cabin roof was warped ( see thread titled warped wood)

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi, Doug: Somewhere along the way I must have messed up & given you some bad information. There are no connectors in any of the wiring that runs from the circuit board up into the deck house & pilot house. I think at some point I mentioned that I want to put connectors in the wiring which is probably what has caused the mixup. By installing connectors in the wiring I’d be able to completely remove the bottom cover of the deck house (with the circuit board attached to it) & move it safely aside without the risk of damaging the wiring. Then I’ll better access to the deck house interior if I ever need to work on anything inside. Anyway, I’ll use the needlepoint “+” probe on my pen-style multimeter to take all of the readings that are needed to avoid shorts. There are (5) pairs of wires soldered to the board that supply power & ground to the boat’s (4) LEDs & (1) bulb. I don’t think I’ll have any trouble getting the voltage measurements you need. I’ll get a sketch & voltage readings to you as soon as I can. Thanks again for your continued assistance.

Wherry hull in GRP by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi mastman, I saw your comment that you wrote, I have copied and pasted it below. ******************************************** Your right about the madhouse cant see how people can run things down on here without seeing the actual goods any way thats another matter. ********************************************* I did write about the shape of the wherry hull was wrong. I am not into sailing boats, am more into MTB's and I power boat hulls. I know I hadn't seen the actual hull in the flesh so to speak. All I saw was the picture that had been posted for the Wherry hull that was for sale. I had just come home from Norfolk and just seen a Wherry moored in Potter Heigham. I commented that the shape was wrong because of the way the bow of the hull swept up so high. I have posted the picture I saw from which I commented on. I am sorry if I did offend you but it was just that I din't see the shape as being correct. Once again I am sorry to have offended you. I also said about other parts being made on a 3D printer. Onc e again I did think that resin ones I have seen on ebay were of a better finish quality than the 3D printed ones. It seems that I have put a cat amongst the pigeons with my remarks. I am sorry to have offended you. Regards BOATSHED.

drum sail winch questions... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Hmmm, seems whatever I do I need to tie more knots to use either a ring (as per Havelock's video) or a bowsie. The knots are tied in the string on the winch drum and that was a pain to get the tension right, so I'm thinking just a piece of slit tube to get over the string, then crimp up with electrical contact pliers for a good crimp. Still waiting for the battery pack to arrive for the RC and servos. Then I have to bind the Orange Rx. to the Spektrum Tx....ugh! I got a biddliboop from the Tx. when I put the batteries in and turned it on and a light came on in a line of lights. Fancy, this modern stuff, innit? First time the Tx. has ever been right out of the box in about 5 years since I bought it, ostensibly for a model aircraft. But aircraft are too expensive to insure, join clubs, etc., hence my switch to yachts. Just as involving as aircraft (wind strength, direction, sail trim and all that jazz), but more interesting than watching a power boat trolling round endlessly. At least, that's the plan Martin

Ishimasa. Blue Sonic 600. yacht. by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Hi Doug, and anyone else reading this post sorry for the delay. Managed to get boat out of trailer today, see the photos and you will notice my concern. I think that it really should have another servo. have powered the motor, it takes 2 AAA batteries, 3volts.the sweep switch that is connected to it is just forwards and backwards, not sure about the servo as haven't removed it yet. the connector to the RX is rather big with 3 pins not sockets with red, black and purple wires. All input gratefully received. after much research managed to ascertain that less than a 1000 came into UK in the early 1970's Cheers all, will be at WMBC display on Sunday with a trailer full of my boats. Cheers to all Colin.

RAF ASR 1942 by CB90 Commander   Posted: 19 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 24"/2300g RAF ASR 1942 Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 5mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a 2860 4050kv (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through China water cooled 60A (30Amps) ESC - Comments: This kit is based on an RAF ASRL Boat and is formed of High Impact Styrene for you to add your own hardware and detail. Kit includes Hull/deck/superstructure/windscreen/clear gun covers/dinghy/boat stand/servo, motor mount and instructions. Approx Length 24in x 7in 1/35th scale. HSL100 Type 2 High Speed Launch 63 feet 21.5 tons 39 Knots 1941 built by The British Power Boat Company and popularly known as the 'Whaleback' as the cabin looks like a whale diving. The craft operating in the North Sea / English Channel. Their armament consisted of any weapon which the crew could find, they started with a single 303 in each ball turret and progressed to twin 303's

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Evenin' Rowen, So far so good, nice job👍 Let me go through your comments one by one😉 1) "Moved the battery towards the stern and, at speed, the forefoot lifts slightly clear of the water. The plane is now almost flat. The battery is not well positioned when near the bow." Battery in the bow is almost always bad news🤔 too much weight forward of the CoG or natural balance point when planing. 2) "The 2S battery used was a 4000mAh 30C; suspect this battery does not have the capacity to operate the model. Every motor will run up smoothly until a second one is operated. The first motor then “stutters” and a fuse might blow, this could be indicative of a power surge. Any comments from the electronic experts among the group would be appreciated." First the battery: you may be right. Especially with 3 x4500 kV motors Since you are using 3 ESCs how about feeding each one from a slightly smaller (lower weight) battery? Precondition of course is that all three are equally charged to the same voltage and capacity AND have the same (or very very similar) internal resistance! Complicates the issue of course and motors with a lower kV rating and one power source may well be the better solution😉 Second the 'stutter': How and when did you switch in the second motor? If the first was still at 'Full Ahead', i.e. 'Pedal to the metal!, I might expect the battery voltage to dip and then recover with the sudden additional load and a sharp rise in total current drawn. But no particular excuse for a sudden current rise in the first motor ! Where was the fuse that blew? I suspect in the primary supply lead from the single battery🤓 since with brushless motors you can't fit individual fuse in their supply leads like you can with a brushed motor. BUT you can to the ESCs feeding them!!! You can't get a power surge from a battery, not like a surge on the mains network due to lightning etc! But you can get a voltage dip and recovery if you suddenly present it with an additional load😲 3) "The 3S battery was 10,500mAh and 40C; with this battery all three motors can be run at full speed together and fuses do not blow. It was also very heavy at 1700g, holding the model down." All run up together to full speed or 'switched in' as described above? There's a big difference between a gradual increasing of load on a power source and a sudden step increase! 4) "The motors are 4500 kV. On refection, think a slower motor around, perhaps 2000 kV would have been a better choice." I did think at the outset that 3 x 4500kV was perhaps a little ambitious😲 2000 - 2500 sounds much better, and more controllable👍 Then you could also get good performance results with a single battery of capacity lower and weight 👍 The function of the third (centre) motor for 'action speed' would also be more pronounced👍 5) "Would concur with comments by others that a simple single or two bladed propeller layout for this model is probably best - that is unless you want to capture the true scale layout. The centre propeller seems to have little effect on overall performance, (see above re 4500kV motors- Doug😉) although it will power the model quite nicely when operating by itself. Have had several suggestions about how best to use the centre propeller. Will think about them and decide later how to do this when I start to finish the model." As a 'Scale Purist' (as far as my skills and tools allow!) personally I would frown on the use of 2 blade props, much less only a single prop. Do that in a fictitious power boat if you will, but for 'Brave Borderer' ? 😡 Do her justice please😉 Many three screw (😲) boats (including the full size originals of this era) only used the third motor for additional manoeuvring speed in action situations. My personal experience of FACs (Fast Attack Craft) and FPBs (Fast Patrol Boats) over the last three decades shows me that the three screw configuration has been largely dropped, especially since the introduction of much more powerful engines such as improved diesels and gas turbines. Many use a combination of diesel, for cruising, and gas turbine for 'action speed', so called CODAG, COmbined Diesel And Gas turbine. 6) "The 2 blade Hi – speed propellers both increased performance and current draw. The model is more than fast enough with the original scale layout." As I believe the 2 blade props were of larger diameter (and perhaps also of larger pitch) than the 3 bladers the higher current draw is a logical conclusion! Stick with the scale config! 👍👍👍 7) "Will purchase a lighter, 3 S battery as that seems the best choice for performance and weight." 👍 but don't overdo it to the other extreme by reducing weight and therefore capacity too much😲 You want a decent sailing time don't you? 8) "Testing using the bare hull with a minimum of detail worked well. For a models with a complex power train, this is a good approach as access to the internals can be gained easily. Nothing worse that finishing a boat carefully just to find the performance disappointing. Then having to to rip it apart to make major modifications or adjustments!" Heartily agree 👍👍👍 Bon chance mon ami😊

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Now the spray has settled have assessed these first tests; have also reviewed various pictures and U Tube videos of the Brave and Pekasas in operation. The actual vessels look to plane rather like mine, whilst some model bows lift up until a significant length of keel is exposed. Anyway, have been able to draw some conclusions: 1) Moved the battery towards the stern and, at speed, the forefoot lifts slightly clear of the water. The plane is now almost flat. The battery is not well positioned when near the bow. 2) The 2S battery used was a 4000mAh 30C; suspect this battery does not have the capacity to operate the model. Every motor will run up smoothly until a second one is operated. The first motor then “stutters” and a fuse might blow, this could be indicative of a power surge. Any comments from the electronic experts among the group would be appreciated. 3) The 3S battery was 10,500mAh and 40C; with this battery all three motors can be run at full speed together and fuses do not blow. It was also very heavy at 1700g, holding the model down. 4) The motors are 4500 kV. On refection, think a slower motor around, perhaps 2000 kV would have been a better choice. 5) Would concur with comments by others that a simple single or two bladed propeller layout for this model is probably best - that is unless you want to capture the true scale layout. The centre propeller seems to have little effect on overall performance, although it will power the model quite nicely when operating by itself. Have had several suggestions about how best to use the centre propeller. Will think about them and decide later how to do this when I start to finish the model. 6) The 2 blade Hi – speed propellers both increased performance and current draw. The model is more than fast enough with the original scale layout. 7) Will purchase a lighter, 3 S battery as that seems the best choice for performance and weight. 8) Testing using the bare hull with a minimum of detail worked well. For a models with a complex power train, this is a good approach as access to the internals can be gained easily. Nothing worse that finishing a boat carefully just to find the performance disappointing. Then having to to rip it apart to make major modifications or adjustments!

Such is life by Kevin-56 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 27 days ago
I fist bought the plans when I was about 12. 50years later I decided to build the boat. It took me about 6months to build. The plans are the original Sufury but with a few changes. The cockpit is similar to that of a cigarette boat, extended the length and added a duck board. The power plant is 2100kv brushless moter, a 120amp speed control, 4mm flex sharftwith 2 11.4volt lipo batteries. In a straight line the boat is fast, but she really leans over when turning. Such is life is fun to drive.

Sea Commander by Kevin-56 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 28 days ago
I first started to build this boat with my father when I was about 15 . Then at about 45 I decided to compleat the build. It originally was built to have a Ed diesele engine,but was to costly to run so I changed to electric power. This proved to be the right decision. The boat runs wel, but when I turn on the full power it tends to lean to starboard and cavatat so I have learned not to put on full power. The sea Commander is a pleasure to drive.

Sea Scout 'Jessica' Sea Trial - at last! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
Interesting Canabus! Not quite what you recommended last year 😲 If you now think the Propdrive 1000kV has "no guts" why did you recommend it to me?? Thanks for spoiling my mood 🤔 As far as I'm concerned you just devalued your currency! I'm happy with her as she is, balance and stability is OK and performance, endurance vs current drain is much more lively than she ever was in 55 years.😊 After all, she's supposed to be a Broads Cruiser and not an Offshore Power Boat.😉 I'm not into racing either. From time to time I'll fiddle with fittings detail and cockpit on Jessica. Time to get on with other projects now. Doug 😎

NAXOS - Fishing Boat by hecrowell Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
After a time away due to illness and other family issues, I am back to the build of the NAXOS. By accident, I think that I have obtained a suitable power plant for her - it is the motor out of a cordless drill which I can no longer get a battery pack for. Aparently, it runs on 6V to 60V. Wondering if it will require water coolong or not. If so, how does one arrange a "water scoop" for the cooling tube and where is the discharge sent to? Maybe a port in the transom..... As you can see, it has a pinion gear on the shaft and I don't know if I should leave it on and incorporate a prop speed reduction gear or remove it (with heat) and go "direct drive" coupling to the prop shaft. I have a plan for the ESC with BEC and as I love building electronic devices likely will go with "home brew". I am a boat building novice so constructive input appreciated. Have located a source for wood construction material, so hopefully will have something to show next time.

It's a sad day!. by Novagsi0 Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Our "Imara" Tug has a cheddar steam plant, I might swap it for the motor and batteries it currently has. I can remember as a small child at a pool called the apex pool by Brean Sands. when a large power boat with a big KMB engine run up the bank out of the pool. The carpark was a gentle sloap straight into the water the boat passed me a 40 MPH on the tarmac. The prop I found, and had a small momento to remember the boat by. I actually still have the prop 35 years later and ran it on my power boat for a bit. Good times. (sorry for nicking the prop i was only 10!!) Stephen

It's a sad day!. by merchant67 Seaman   Posted: 1 month ago
I remember going to a model boat club meet in Crosby Liverpool back in the early 60's ( cannot remember the name of the lake though) There were plenty of IC models plus one guy who had a steam powered trawler and he was busy stoking the thing with pine chips to get steam up. As I remember a beautiful boat. Maybe the way forward is steam????