After a time away due to illness and other family issues, I am back to the build of the NAXOS. By accident, I think that I have obtained a suitable power plant for her - it is the motor out of a cordless drill which I can no longer get a battery pack for. Aparently, it runs on 6V to 60V. Wondering if it will require water coolong or not. If so, how does one arrange a "water scoop" for the cooling tube and where is the discharge sent to? Maybe a port in the transom..... As you can see, it has a pinion gear on the shaft and I don't know if I should leave it on and incorporate a prop speed reduction gear or remove it (with heat) and go "direct drive" coupling to the prop shaft. I have a plan for the ESC with BEC and as I love building electronic devices likely will go with "home brew". I am a boat building novice so constructive input appreciated. Have located a source for wood construction material, so hopefully will have something to show next time.
Thanks all for the responses. Donnieboy - have thought out the plumbing, which is simplified by using a cooling pump. See future episodes! Doug - appreciate the concern regarding the red ESC wires. Have been trying to understand the rationale behind that theory. If all ESCs share a common input voltage, i.e. from one battery, what would the connection of multiple red wires do? Can understand if there were several unique power sources, but that is not the case here. Perhaps with your electronics background you can explain. Colmar - Used the angle on the scale drawing. If it were good enough for Vosper, should be good enough for me! Think it close to 7 degrees anyway. Think short shafts with oilers should help. Have heard of bushings running dry and seizing with these high speed motors. The initial props are scale versions of the originals. Rather suspect they will not prove to be ideal. Have purchased some 2 blade racing style props for a future test. They have a much coarser pitch and are designed for high speed motors. Intend to use plastic props initially as they are cheap enough to experiment with. Perhaps others have a comments on the cavitation question?. Incidentally, this is my first high speed boat too, but there is much of information on both this web site and Model Boat Mayhem for guidance. Posting questions always generates useful information. Look widely though at all types of fast models, MTBs, RAF launches, E Boats etc. - it has all been done before!
BTW: a 3V supply will only work for one LED, or several in parallel which complicates the wiring. Each LED in series drops from around 1.8 to 3.3V depending on the type. Typical average is 2V and 20mA current, so for your 3 LED running lights you would need a - 150Ohm resistor!!! Yes 'minus' 150 Ohm.😲 If you find one let me know and DON'T TELL DONALD😉 What voltage is the main power source, i.e. drive battery? Doug Posts crossed 😉 Just wondered if Brooklyn might have had a stern light set into the stern gunwale. Have seen that on tugs in Hamburg.
Hi Biggles. I am at a very similar level to you. I am seeking help from the kind members so that I can improve my skills. I built this boat in 1993, which by the way, I had no idea about until I removed one of the life rafts to find I had painted the completion date on the bottom. I am currently stripping the paint and trying to get advice on the painting method. At present I am tending to favour air brushing Revell aqua paint but I am open to other views. As for the spray rail, my boat has never gone fast enough to need them. To be clear, is this the rail around the joint between the hull and deck which my boat has. Told you I was a beginner as well. With the more powerful motor, anything that keeps water from the electrics must be good. The gun was supplied by Battlecraft in Bideford. It is in 1:24 scale. I have just purchased a 40mm Bofors for the stern. Nothing like a lot of weapons. Perhaps I should have some torpedoes one day.😁 I have just bought a 3648 1450kv motor from Hobbyking for mine. I am advised that this will sort out my slow speed problem. I have also been advised to fit Lipo batteries. I probably will once I get over the thought of a large fireball on the river or in my house during charging.😉 Would love to hear how the renovation goes. I am considering starting a build blog as it might be a good source of gaining extra knowledge. I am not sure if a restoration will be ok on the build blog so I would appreciate if a member in the know could comment on this. Work keeps getting in the way of my plans but one day!! Peter.😊
Traditionally, when powering a Rx from more than one source, such as using a BEC circuit and a separate Rx supply battery, the positive power feed from the ESC is disconnected. This avoids the double power feed. I am embarking on a triple hand screw model with 3 x ESCs so each screw can then be controlled individually from the Rx. In this situation, where all the Rx power will come from ESCs running off the same main battery (using the BECC), with no separate Rx battery supply, is it necessary to cut all the positive ESC supply leads except 1? Appreciate any advice. Thanks Rowen
So following a long away week-end of Astronomy, now trying to get a bit further before going away for a couple of days. As I start to wire up the power circuit I realise how important it is to think things through first! Made up the link from the Battery to a ‘choc block’ distribution point which for space reasons is under the ‘control’ platform which will fill the bow area. (Pic 1) The fuse boards were obtained from Component – shop.co.uk Ltd in Bangor which is a good source of all sorts of electrical bits for us and is in Wales! (Pic2) The Dual Esc/Mixer, from the same place, a P94 9Lite), I have secured with Velcro (Pic 3) and I hope to keep the battery on top of this with a little air gap. It is at this point that I really came to appreciate the space limitations (Pic 4) and I do not have the motors wired in yet which will have fuse boards on the ‘platform’. (Pic 5). Next time hope to wire in Motors and Fuse Boards, Sound Generator and Receiver. Then see how it sits in the bath.....! NPJ
Just a thought- The component shop does do a voltage reducer rated at 6 Amps power draw, and will drop from DC (10.5-40v to 1-9v) I thought about using one of these to run a 6v volt Marx Hectoperm motor from a 12v source, to save buying a new battery. As long as your motor speed controller setup doesn't draw more than say 4~4.5 Amps. I'm my case the tug had 4 x 6Ahr 6v batteries wired in parallel giving 16Ahr and 2-1/2 hours running time @full speed. These batteries have since all died due to age. I wanted to use just 1 x 20Ahr 12v battery instead and keep the added ballast I need anyway. This 6 amp unit is on the limit in my application. P.S i'm tight with money and I acquired the battery free from an alarm battery swap.
Well, back now from a wet Scottish break and with lots of little parcels to open..... Just before I left I tried to load a video and failed. My 'tutors' are going to help me with that but for now, the photos will do the job. The first image shows my temporary power setup and the layout of the components (1). Exciters sourced from ............. and the sound unit is a ............. Note the way they are wired up. I hope, when fitted properly, the cabling will run across the bottom of the Hull. The positioning was very much dictated by the space available between one set of 'ribs' (2). This seems to be just perfect. Note the position of the solder tags(3). There is little space left at the top when fitting the Deck, so keep as high as possible bearing that in mind. So I put the exciters in place, and attached my power supply (4). I could not wait to put the Deck back on before I tried, but at least I had sound of Motors and Horn and adjusted the volume control to 75% (5) Volume control being the white block with the cross head. So after I had my fun, I tidied it all up and put the deck on. Not screwed down but just to check sound levels. Did not work first time because of the lose wires, but second time was good and a great depth of sound. So that has confirmed the sound system fits and can work in that position. However, that is without motors running and that may make a difference. Next time I hope to be doing the trials of the mixer/escapes and motors, then I will see how the sound presents with motors running. All the best. NPJ
Hi John, can you please define 'sometimes' more precisely ? For example; At the beginning of a run yes? -> After some minutes running no? Or right from the start sometimes yes, sometimes not? Under what circumstances do you have no control? What is the current setup? TX and RX make & model? Motors? ESCs, still Vipers, TIO version? BEC or not? Power source? Charge status? Re Dave's comment: can only highly recommend the exclusive use of gold connectors only (regardless of type) between ESC and motor. And on the battery as well.
Hi Les Thank you. There are three LEDS which change from red to green when fully charged. I can see no mention of setting a half charge. Haverlock was right in thinking each cell was charged by the balance lead so you will be protected from overcharging. The solution is to buy a battery checker theirs is DYN4071 and I have one in my collection. Using the checker involves plugging the battery via the balance lead into the balancer and each cell voltage is displayed sequentially. So you charge for half your normal length of time and check the voltage of each cell is about 3.7 to 3.8v. Bit clunky but would work. A better solution would be to invest in a balancer charger which will automatically charge to full voltage or the storage charge. There are several available some with mains power supplies and others needing a DC power source. Have a look at https://www.componentshop.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=bala... I have a Giant Power G6AC but they all work just as well. Please ask if you need more info
Great post fantastic project - most of use Li-Po batteries without any issues allbeit in portable or laptop computers, some cell phones, portable chargers and elsewhere. Heck, a standard alkaline 1.5 or 9 volt battery can cause issues if not properly used or placed under stress. But - I’ve made mistakes myself and come close to bad issues using power sources improperly or without heading instructions such as using them full out without allowing them to cool. It’s all about using caution and precautions, understandably accidents do happen though
Hi, I have to say - I use a simple V-tail mixer only, and ESC at the basic setting, the transmitter => Throttle and Ail only(right stick). I tried to connect Rudder servo to this design, but I could not adjust it, the servo behaved "non-standardly". That's why I have it connected to the usual rudder channel nr 4 (left stick). One more important thing ... check the settings of the transmitter, especially the mixes that are sometimes pre-programmed from the factory. It is recommended to clear the transmitter memory first, and then set your own values. It usually helps ... I use the power supply of the receiver from a single source via an external BEC, powering motors using Y cables to ESC,from the same source as BEC ( gel Aku 12V).I had setup problems too - I finally found that one ESC was defective. after replacing both ESC no problems.
Hello gentlemen, Im the "Tapemeasureman" from Atlanta, Georgia, USA. A carpenter, remodeler by trade, Ive recently became interested in vintage model steam engines. It is my intention to build (at the moment) a simple hull / boat to be powered by one of my steam engines. To be more specific, a hull of repurposed, recycled sheet metal on the 18" to maybe 36" size range. It will be powered by a 1 or 2 cylinder STEAM ENGINE AND BOILER. My thinking currently is something along the lines of THE AFRICAN QUEEN, although with a more simplified hull design I can create with bought sheet aluminum, or sheet steel from recycled paint cans or some such, something fairly easy to work with, readily available and cheap. Currently I am more interested in basic function than strict detail or creating a scale replica. In short I want to build a simple working water craft to utilize one of my steam engines be it propeller or paddle wheel propelled I am open to any and all suggestions and directions as I am completely ignorant on this subject and seeking enlightenment, so any help will surely save me countless hours of the trials and errors of starting from scratch, all alone. Any help with hull patterns, alternate information resources, tips on working in the various metals will be appreciated more than you know, and will leave me forever in your debt and very grateful. Thank you in advance, hoping you are having a great day.
Very impressive. I look forward to seeing the video when available. Thinking about my last post I may have given the wrong advice about the switch on sequence. Some ESCs set the neutral point at switch on and some 2.4Ghz rxs take a few secs to power up resulting in the ESC not finding a signal. So if you have such a system I would switch on the rx power source first and wait for the rx light to show solid before switching on or applying power to the ESCs. Dave
Glad to hear you have solved your problem. Overrunning any system will result in some interesting issues and you are fortunate that yours shut down or failed open circuit otherwise all the electronics could have cooked. If you are getting a separate on-board power source the best option is to go for a switched mode supply, most will give you lots of amps without the heat problems of an ESC and are designed to work with higher battery voltages. You must disconnect any +ve power lead from any ESC to your rx. If your ESC has an on/off switch do make sure it is switched on, preferable before you power up the switched mode unit. Be good to see some pics or on water video Dave