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So following a long away week-end of Astronomy, now trying to get a bit further before going away for a couple of days. As I start to wire up the power circuit I realise how important it is to think things through first! Made up the link from the Battery to a ‘choc block’ distribution point which for space reasons is under the ‘control’ platform which will fill the bow area. (Pic 1) The fuse boards were obtained from Component – shop.co.uk Ltd in Bangor which is a good source of all sorts of electrical bits for us and is in Wales! (Pic2) The Dual Esc/Mixer, from the same place, a P94 9Lite), I have secured with Velcro (Pic 3) and I hope to keep the battery on top of this with a little air gap. It is at this point that I really came to appreciate the space limitations (Pic 4) and I do not have the motors wired in yet which will have fuse boards on the ‘platform’. (Pic 5). Next time hope to wire in Motors and Fuse Boards, Sound Generator and Receiver. Then see how it sits in the bath.....! NPJ
Just a thought- The component shop does do a voltage reducer rated at 6 Amps power draw, and will drop from DC (10.5-40v to 1-9v) I thought about using one of these to run a 6v volt Marx Hectoperm motor from a 12v source, to save buying a new battery. As long as your motor speed controller setup doesn't draw more than say 4~4.5 Amps. I'm my case the tug had 4 x 6Ahr 6v batteries wired in parallel giving 16Ahr and 2-1/2 hours running time @full speed. These batteries have since all died due to age. I wanted to use just 1 x 20Ahr 12v battery instead and keep the added ballast I need anyway. This 6 amp unit is on the limit in my application. P.S i'm tight with money and I acquired the battery free from an alarm battery swap.
Well, back now from a wet Scottish break and with lots of little parcels to open..... Just before I left I tried to load a video and failed. My 'tutors' are going to help me with that but for now, the photos will do the job. The first image shows my temporary power setup and the layout of the components (1). Exciters sourced from ............. and the sound unit is a ............. Note the way they are wired up. I hope, when fitted properly, the cabling will run across the bottom of the Hull. The positioning was very much dictated by the space available between one set of 'ribs' (2). This seems to be just perfect. Note the position of the solder tags(3). There is little space left at the top when fitting the Deck, so keep as high as possible bearing that in mind. So I put the exciters in place, and attached my power supply (4). I could not wait to put the Deck back on before I tried, but at least I had sound of Motors and Horn and adjusted the volume control to 75% (5) Volume control being the white block with the cross head. So after I had my fun, I tidied it all up and put the deck on. Not screwed down but just to check sound levels. Did not work first time because of the lose wires, but second time was good and a great depth of sound. So that has confirmed the sound system fits and can work in that position. However, that is without motors running and that may make a difference. Next time I hope to be doing the trials of the mixer/escapes and motors, then I will see how the sound presents with motors running. All the best. NPJ
Hi John, can you please define 'sometimes' more precisely ? For example; At the beginning of a run yes? -> After some minutes running no? Or right from the start sometimes yes, sometimes not? Under what circumstances do you have no control? What is the current setup? TX and RX make & model? Motors? ESCs, still Vipers, TIO version? BEC or not? Power source? Charge status? Re Dave's comment: can only highly recommend the exclusive use of gold connectors only (regardless of type) between ESC and motor. And on the battery as well.
Hi Les Thank you. There are three LEDS which change from red to green when fully charged. I can see no mention of setting a half charge. Haverlock was right in thinking each cell was charged by the balance lead so you will be protected from overcharging. The solution is to buy a battery checker theirs is DYN4071 and I have one in my collection. Using the checker involves plugging the battery via the balance lead into the balancer and each cell voltage is displayed sequentially. So you charge for half your normal length of time and check the voltage of each cell is about 3.7 to 3.8v. Bit clunky but would work. A better solution would be to invest in a balancer charger which will automatically charge to full voltage or the storage charge. There are several available some with mains power supplies and others needing a DC power source. Have a look at https://www.componentshop.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=bala... I have a Giant Power G6AC but they all work just as well. Please ask if you need more info
Great post fantastic project - most of use Li-Po batteries without any issues allbeit in portable or laptop computers, some cell phones, portable chargers and elsewhere. Heck, a standard alkaline 1.5 or 9 volt battery can cause issues if not properly used or placed under stress. But - I’ve made mistakes myself and come close to bad issues using power sources improperly or without heading instructions such as using them full out without allowing them to cool. It’s all about using caution and precautions, understandably accidents do happen though
Hi, I have to say - I use a simple V-tail mixer only, and ESC at the basic setting, the transmitter => Throttle and Ail only(right stick). I tried to connect Rudder servo to this design, but I could not adjust it, the servo behaved "non-standardly". That's why I have it connected to the usual rudder channel nr 4 (left stick). One more important thing ... check the settings of the transmitter, especially the mixes that are sometimes pre-programmed from the factory. It is recommended to clear the transmitter memory first, and then set your own values. It usually helps ... I use the power supply of the receiver from a single source via an external BEC, powering motors using Y cables to ESC,from the same source as BEC ( gel Aku 12V).I had setup problems too - I finally found that one ESC was defective. after replacing both ESC no problems.
Hello gentlemen, Im the "Tapemeasureman" from Atlanta, Georgia, USA. A carpenter, remodeler by trade, Ive recently became interested in vintage model steam engines. It is my intention to build (at the moment) a simple hull / boat to be powered by one of my steam engines. To be more specific, a hull of repurposed, recycled sheet metal on the 18" to maybe 36" size range. It will be powered by a 1 or 2 cylinder STEAM ENGINE AND BOILER. My thinking currently is something along the lines of THE AFRICAN QUEEN, although with a more simplified hull design I can create with bought sheet aluminum, or sheet steel from recycled paint cans or some such, something fairly easy to work with, readily available and cheap. Currently I am more interested in basic function than strict detail or creating a scale replica. In short I want to build a simple working water craft to utilize one of my steam engines be it propeller or paddle wheel propelled I am open to any and all suggestions and directions as I am completely ignorant on this subject and seeking enlightenment, so any help will surely save me countless hours of the trials and errors of starting from scratch, all alone. Any help with hull patterns, alternate information resources, tips on working in the various metals will be appreciated more than you know, and will leave me forever in your debt and very grateful. Thank you in advance, hoping you are having a great day.
Very impressive. I look forward to seeing the video when available. Thinking about my last post I may have given the wrong advice about the switch on sequence. Some ESCs set the neutral point at switch on and some 2.4Ghz rxs take a few secs to power up resulting in the ESC not finding a signal. So if you have such a system I would switch on the rx power source first and wait for the rx light to show solid before switching on or applying power to the ESCs. Dave
Glad to hear you have solved your problem. Overrunning any system will result in some interesting issues and you are fortunate that yours shut down or failed open circuit otherwise all the electronics could have cooked. If you are getting a separate on-board power source the best option is to go for a switched mode supply, most will give you lots of amps without the heat problems of an ESC and are designed to work with higher battery voltages. You must disconnect any +ve power lead from any ESC to your rx. If your ESC has an on/off switch do make sure it is switched on, preferable before you power up the switched mode unit. Be good to see some pics or on water video Dave
The accepted wisdom is that only one power source should be used to power a receiver from an ESC. I can see where using a separate battery and a BEC would be questionable, but what about using two BEC connectors when using two identical ESCs? The reason for my question is I am powering the Rx off the port motor ESC through its BEC in one of my models. The starboard ESC has the positive BEC wire disconnected. The port ESC failed "ON" today causing my model to go in uncontrollable circles as the failure caused the Rx to shut the starboard ECS down. If both ESC / BECs had been connected could I have retained control of the starboard motor as that ESC was fine?
I recently required a smoke generator (ultrasonic Type) it is not in working order but I have rigged it up to test and bypassed the circuit board powered by 2 X 12 volt batteries and managed to get the vapourising unit to function, and the 12 volt fan motor with a separate supply to also work. With some work to replace the 12v to 24v converter CN6009 it should satisfactory. This unit appears to be a DIY job but very similar to MMB Foggy Smoke Generator which is available. Note the component required CN6009 I have sourced on ebay. Soon as it arrives I will set it up and test its suitability for a 1/24 scale TID tug boat model I am building. Problem might be size of smoke generator and other components required to fit in the hull in addition to a 12 volt 9ah battery scooter battery, there aint much space. There are smaller smoke generators available which burn oil (fan powered) which I have in one of my other models (Blazer Tug Boat) which is OK with no wind and close up but at any distance hard to detect if any smoke is being produced. The Oil recommend for this unit is Baby Oil which smells OK but I have wondered if I could use another oil based fluid which would produce more smoke (Any suggestions)?
[Score: 8/10] 29"/5000g M.V. Conserver Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 120mins Single Propellor (4 Blade 45mm) Direct Drive to a Electronize 545-12 (4 Blade) Powered by NiMH (6v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Mtroniks Viper 15 ESC - Comments: Model Slipway kit of a full size buoy maintenance/survey vessel still working out of Leith harbour, Edinburgh. Maiden voyage took place a week ago, it still needs work to finish it. It performed really well with a very tight turning circle. Further testing shows a more realistic speed using a 6volt power source instead of the original 7.2volts.
Hi Wellard I think we need a bit more info to give helpful advice. Electric or Gas depends on the noise level nuisance. May not be a problem for off shore use. Probably greater endurance than with electric but not as good for the speed you envisage. As speed is not important (3-4Km/h) then a brushed motor may be preferable to brushless. Generally the prop should be about the same diameter as the motor case. Larger props will require some form of reduction unit to reduce the load on the motor. Sounds like there will be plenty of room in the hulls to carry a good power source and as you are operating at some distance SLA is possibly better than say LiPo where discharge voltage is important. I think you may have a problem with the range (20-30Kms) as this is somewhat greater than the normal range of domestic RC sets. As you are off shore there may be additional problems with wave height as the signal may be obscured when the model is in a deep trough between waves. At the end of the day you need a motor prop battery combination that will move the craft thro the water at the required speed and last for the full duration of each sail. It's quite a large model and I suspect will need say two 800 size brushed motors to allow for wind/waves and current. I suggest you come back with your thoughts as you may have specific requirements to fit in with other equipment you are instaling. dave