Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Guest
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
   
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play


Help Support This Website
£
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.



£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team


Donation History
July 2018: 5 people
June 2018: 8 people
May 2018: 7 people
April 2018: 24 people
March 2018: 13 people
February 2018: 8 people
January 2018: 25 people
December 2017: 7 people
November 2017: 3 people


Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy
Advertising
Contact


Model Boats Website
Active Users (10)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > primer

primer
grey primer
primer
Hull Pt2: Motorisation - Come What May!! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
As promised (or threatened?😁) stage two of the hull work and thoughts on motorisation. The hull was sprayed with two coats of grey primer/filler. Pic1. As usual this showed up the remaining imperfections (pics 2 & 3), but I'm not going to worry about them until I've got prop shaft tube and rudder stock sorted out and permanently fitted 😉 After my attempts to make and thread a 3mm prop shaft went awry Martin (Westway the Mechanicals Master👍) stepped in and made me a decent one complete with a bushed stuffing tube 👍 Vielen Dank Meister😊 I did however manage to make a 4mm to 3mm reducer so that I could fit a Rabeosch 35mm prop as seen in pics 2 & 3. The tube and shaft from Martin, arrived Saturday an' he only made it on Monday😊, have been dry fitted so that I can start setting up the gears, necessary to bring the drive down to the prop shaft fitted very low down in the hull, and motor mount. Pic 4. Motorisation: (Remember folks - this kit was designed and built as a static model!) I want to use the old 1950s Taycol Target motor which my Dad originally fitted in the Sea Scout which I have renovated and upgraded to brushless. See Build blog 'Sea Scout - Jessica' Many of you will know that the Taycol motors were field coil motors, meaning that they have no permanent magnet around the rotor coil, and thus reversing the battery connections to the brushes had no effect on the direction of rotation, as this simply reversed the magnetic fields of both stator and rotor coils🤔 To counteract this so that the motor could be used in both forward and reverse with a conventional brushed ESC I modified the motor slightly (separated the two coils) and built a simple converter board to connect it to the ESC. Again see the Sea Scout blog for the details of the conversion. Basically; once the field coil and brush-gear (rotor coil) have been separated a simple diode bridge can be used to apply the output of the ESC to the motor. This enables the reversal of EITHER field OR rotor coil polarity, depending on how you connect the converter to the motor. Thus reversing the direction of rotation of the motor. Beneficial side effect is that the diodes also suppress the commutator sparking😊 In my case, with the Taycol Target, I also cleaned, flattened and polished the commutator. Thus significantly reducing the potential for spark generation in the first place! A peculiarity of the Taycol motors is that they all use metal brushes, pressed phosphor bronze strip, so they need oiling! DO NOT oil conventional brushed motors with carbon brushes unless the brushes are exchangeable or you want to have to buy a new motor!!!!! Pics 5 & 6 show the proposed position of the Taycol in Gina 2 and pic 7 the prototype converter board I knocked up to test the motor, together with a Graupner Navy V30R Marine Brushed ESC. Details and results in the Sea Scout blog, including video of the sparks and oscilloscope pics of the drive waveforms before and after conversion! The latter showing the spark suppression effect of the converter😊 Some samples attached - last 3 pics. Pic 8 pic shows a more compact version of the converter, one of a few types I'm doing for Martin's various Taycols as a trade for the prop shaft he made for me and some useful material he sent. Thanks mate👍 Next steps will be 1) mounting the gears correctly on the shafts, requiring the manufacture of a 3/32" to 4mm adaptor and a 1/8" to 4mm adaptor, and keying them to the shafts - Hooray for mini milling machines 😉 2) manufacturing bushed end plates to hold the gears in place, 3) fitting the motor mounting platform. I'll probably borrow from my experiences of real shipbuilding and do this as a suspended 'false floor', i.e. mounted on stiff springs to enable adjustments to optimise the gearing mesh! On real naval ships this is done to improve shock resistance and to minimise engine noise / vibration conduction to the hull, thus significantly reducing the acoustic signature of the ship. Not that I'm tooo worried about being torpedoed 😁 Worth a try😉 Pic 9 shows the cleaned up and renovated Taycol Target motor. Pic 10 shows the drive waveform complete with sparks before modification.🤔 Pic 11 the cleaned 'forward' waveform with the converter board. Pic 12 the cleaned 'reverse' waveform, no suppression capacitors needed 😉 More soon folks, Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Along the way a new keel was fitted as can be seen in pics 1 to 3. The original builder had 'buried' the keel in the hull planking! 😲

Crash Tender crew by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Right, more or less finished and waiting for a tiny bit of tidying up,l but all in primer coat...the Crash Tender crew. Boss man with bins. Helmsman in a forage cap. Cool dude, lazy bastard relaxing on the hook deck. The other two are in the engine 'ole. Cheers, Martin

Crash Tender crew by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
No!!! Misunderstanding, Doug. The CT for real has Rover Meteorites in the engine 'ole! My one has a Supermarine as stated. Phew, didn't want you going up a blind ally! My camera won't take anything in less than bright sunshine and bugger all close up in any light, so I usually get Chris to use her phone, which takes a better picture than my camera at the best of times, especially close up. Don't know what happened last night though, it didn't seem to want to know. The boss man figure is hard to photograph as his head and hands are a kind of semi opaque glow in the dark wishy washy green colour. All will be better when painted in self etch primer, which is a kind of baby poo greenish yellow. Cheers, Martin

54 year old Crash Tender by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Here's last night's first spray primer. I like this grey and will use it as the matt finish. Maybe then mask up and use the Baufix Grey for the cabin sides, with, OK, the Baufix white for the tops. I have black enamel primer for the hull and black enamel gloss. When you rub it down it's like soot! Martin

After fibreglass and primer coat by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi Ron, mark the 'real' waterline, the LWL (Load Waterline) as on your plan. Then load the boat (in the domestic Test Tank😉) down to that line then you know what she can carry, including any missing deck and superstructure of course! See test I just did for my fish cutter 'Gina 2'. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS: seal and prime the hull when you wish, I do final finishing / polishing when all major internal works are done, and especially after prop shaft tubes and rudder stock are fitted and 'fettled in'. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Applies just as well to renovations and new builds! BUT more power to your elbow for scratch building 👍

After fibreglass and primer coat by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
So, the hull has been fibreglassed, and several coats of primer applied. What next? Mark the water line as seen on the PDF and photographs? OR Place model in water, load up with approximately the weight of servos, batteries, and other building materials? Paint exterior hull or wait till interior servos are mounted? Scratch building questions...

Gina 2: A Messy Business - Hull Restoration by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
First five pics show 'square one'. 😲 Dave_M reckoned she'd been plastered not painted.😁 Before attempting to strip the hull I figured I had better stabilise it so it wouldn't fall apart when I removed about 1mm of ancient paint. So I applied a couple of layers of resin and FG tissue inside. Pic 6. Not so easy between those somewhat rustically built bulkheads! They weren't even shaped so that the planking fitted properly! Sanding was obviously out of the question so out came the heat gun. On medium heat (ca 300°C) about four layers of paint started to bubble up and fly off, gently persuaded with a not too sharp 3/4" wood chisel. Pics 7 to 10 show the results; almost more filler than wood and Horrors! Upper Stern / gunwhale made from a chunk of thick cardboard cut from a 3M sticky tape reel 😡 This was promptly replaced with a carved chunk of hard balsa. Pic 11. I will later add a mahogany step deck on top of the block, and a mahogany cap rail to finish off the hull. Last two pics show current status after filling, sanding and applying a coat of EzeKote to the outside. Shame the woodwork was so bad, she might have looked quite nice with the wood cleaned up and varnished 🤔 In between these jobs I also stripped and EzeKoted and primer/filled the hull of the PTB I'm renovating as well. Saves getting the same tools and materials out twice😉 But that's another B....log! As Bamber Gascoigne (What a moniker😁) used to say "I've started - so I'll finish"!! Oops! Forgot the last pics🤔 Last three are today's status 😁

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Martin, sorry was distracted by primer/filling my PTB 😉 "Don't worry, BE happy" (Sing along now folks!) 😁 Haverlock is right, the TX will have the necessary charger electronics built in so should cut off when required. Keep an eye on it though and check the temp with your finger tips now and again. The USB connection is 5V and usually anywhere between 0.5 and 2Amps. The TX charger will just take what it needs, so Plug & Play away 👍 I don't expect it will take much more than an hour-anna-half to charge. What Haverlock forgot was that a 1S ain't got no balancer plug cos it's only got one cell! Use the TX to charge it. Don't get more charged up than usual 😁😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

54 year old Crash Tender by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Well I'm blowed, Doug, your Dad must have known the same "bloke in the docks". But yellow? That was a luxury! Here's some more done on the Crash Tender. Excellent grey primer from the car paint shop. This weather has hardened it off to the point where it'll not only sand down but scrape too, which is a favourite method of mine. Must be the old clay modeller in me, eh? Cheers, Martin

54 year old Crash Tender by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Boaty, it's amazing how many people HAD Taycol motors, but don't anymore, apart from our chum Doug in Munich. And I'll pick his brains later maybe for info on controlling the Taycol Supermarine in the Crash Tender. Then again, I might just set it off on one pack for slowish and switch in another for faster. I ain't into reverse. Boats don't go backuds. I've had enough real ones to know that! Two of those didn't have any gears. One had a clutch and the other didn't even have that. It starts, it goes, quickish! Always had a paddle handy in the Albatross! I'm not really into the boat club festivals of steering round stuff or backing into docks, so why trouble myself with ESCs which seem to fail often still and weren't around when I had the boat originally. I have gel cells, but the damned things have all gone dead on me, so I might see about Nimh packs when the time comes. I went to get some one shot cellulose putty to fill the cracks and grain bits and the old nail head dips. But my favourite auto paint shop said they hadn't sold it in ages and offered me some acrylic crap in a tube. Not a bloody chance!!! "Gimme the thickest brushing primer you got and it better be cellulose". Yeah, got that, he said. "So why ain't you got stopper?" No answer. Anyway I get this stuff home and it's thick, cellulose (skin forming after 3 minutes) and bang on the right shade of light grey for a Crash Tender. I shall experiment with my Chinchila dust next for the non-slip areas and mix a pot of the primer with a bit of white to do the cabin sides, when I finish spray. For the moment, I very quickly slapped it on with a brush and will leave it for today to harden then start a very big, dusty, rub down session tomorrow. OK a litre of primer ain't cheap, but it's cheaper from a car paint suppliers and it's bang on colour. It'll also do a LOT of boats! I have a black primer in enamel for Vanity, which will also go on the sides of the Crash tender, followed by black gloss enamel, but's a way down the road yet. Talking of old stuff boaty, the white enamel my dad insisted on painting the boat back in the early 60s is hard as rock! He used to get it by the 20 gallon can from a "mate on the docks". We had docks in those days. Dad called it ship enamel. We all knew what he meant. Our entire house was shades of pastel tinted ship enamel! Tints courtesy of another mate on the docks. He had a lot of mates on the docks. It was difficult to be a Cockney family and not have mates on the docks! Pics later of the slapped on grey primer, which, I should say, argued a bit with the sanding sealer. Nuffin' a good rub down won't sort out. Martin

Live and learn! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
OK, I've learned that. When paint companies make a batch of paint. You should get as many cans from that batch as possible! For a set project if need be! I used Bright Touch automotive paint. For the bulwark and outer hull. Had to get two more cans of the stuff. It being BT43 Flat Black! Wouldn't you know it's a different shade!😡 Not too far off but, noticeable! At least the Red Oxide Primer. Being BT51 is the same shade! I must have lucked out on that one! So what have I learned. Get two or more cans if needed at the same time!👍

What do you think? by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
It is a beautiful summer day. Thought I'd do some spraying! So I sprayed the Brooklyn's Pilot house and main cabin! The origanal Brooklyn was a deep dark green. But I thought against using a dark green! I myself like a light green tug! But the port lights will be a dark green! to show some contrast. The pilot house window frames will be a brown (Using brown primer) for this! All the hand rails will be black.... So, What do you think?

Prime and sand by CB90 Captain   Posted: 30 days ago
Primed with white primer and will sand most of this away again. Please note boat is for semi-scale racing. the bow strakes have been reduced as per the real boat bow and perhaps allowing for some shark teeth details to be add as per one of the two original boats P285

Seeing the light by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
BTW; re your query about filler and acrylic paints:- Any 'standard' polyester type filler will do but be sure to let it cure completely so that all the 'smelly' components, including peroxide from the hardener have evaporated. For small surface nicks I often use 'Green Putty' or Revell 'Plasto'. Doesn't need mixing and is very fine and smooth and NO PONG😊 Then apply a primer to match the top coat paint you are using. happy filling, cheers Doug 😎

Seeing the light by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Nice tidy work Peter 👍, Good jointing, sign of some well cared for sharp tools 👍 I use Tamiya tape as well. Gives a good clean edge and the glue does not attack painted and varnished surfaces. So if the underlying paint was applied over a good primer it shouldn't lift at all. As to how long to let dry; check your paint can for info about 'touch dry' and 'can be overpainted after ...' times. To be in the safe side don't apply the tape at the 'touch dry' time, wait a coupla hours more. Leaving to dry (and harden in the sun or under a halogen lamp) speeds things up a bit 😉 Also, don't apply paint too thick otherwise it can go touch dry on top (skinning) but still be soft underneath - then masking tape may lift it more easily 🤔 Can you pdf or jpeg me your circuit diagram please? Sounds interesting 😊 Cheers, Doug 😎