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>> Home > Tags > primer

primer
grey primer
primer
The deck planking. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 hours ago
Hi Mike. I chose to use .8mm black plasticard after doing a test pieces with it and comparing it with another using card and I found the plasticard far easier to cut and fix, and it trims very neatly with a sharp chisel. No special primer required at all, the obeche strip is stained with several coats of teak water based stain and finished with a couple of coats of satin acrylic lacquer. It was great to meet you at Ally Pally on Saturday and compare notes on Crash Tenders, I hope you enjoyed your day out to London. Very Best. Rob.

The deck planking. by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 hours ago
Once again a piece of precision planking, the end product is always dependant on good planning and preparation, I used black card as my caulking (its available in a variety of thicknesses) and my thought was that it would not require any special pre- treatment other than sanding sealer and lacquer. Does the plasticard need a plastic primer?

Paint for Thames River Police Boat. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi Haverlock. That's not a bad idea, and they're only in Wapping so a visit isn't out of the question either (I'm in North West London). I've just sprayed the hull with grey primer, so it's time to make a decision 🤔 Good suggestion👍 Thanks. Rob.

Cooling coil by Dave J Petty Officer   Posted: 20 days ago
As long as the coil toutches the motor you will be ok if it is NOT touching then simply start agaain as it will b a waste of time.............................................With regards to your painting question simplest way is to go to halfords and buy grey primer with is acrylic....if it is a wooden hull then you WILL NEED to use a coat of Halfords or Equivellent car laquer to seal the primer underneath ...rub down with 800 DRY then put your grey on top of it....reason for this is simple the primer is porous so you will need to stop water getting at the wood,if it is GRP then no need for this Dave

Paint finish for warships by drspock Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 20 days ago
I am building a 1/24 th scale Perkasa,but this recommendation applies to any warship. Autotek etch primer covers anything with even one coat,and, as an etch primer is good for any substrate including galvanised , ally, plastic / resin.It has an authentic Matt finish,and one squirt repairs any building marks.When finished, I will laquer with Autotek MATT laquer. Find it on ebay at about £10.50 for two 500ml cans! Use in well ventilated room,it is acidic!

HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale by Rookysailor Commander   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Steve, swallow your pride and treat yourself to some 1/96 WWII navy figures from Deans, I have six sets now ready for my HMS amethyst painted in navy whites, and some for the USS KIDD nearly finished. They are small and rather crudely cast, but with primer and paint they look OK on the bridge, as Doug says, better than a ghost ship😲, will post some piccy's of the crew when finished. cheers Peter😊 BTW Happy New Year

Priming Hull by Joe727 Captain   Posted: 24 days ago
Hello, Not too many photos today as I am focusing on sealing the hull. Photo shows the gray primer in progress..... Haven't finalized the paint scheme yet, probably red, green, white, some gray. Thank you everybody for your interest, please ask questions, comments appreciated. If you see me doing something GOOFY, let me know...... Regards, Joe

Deck, servo mount by Joe727 Captain   Posted: 27 days ago
Put together a pilot house based on some tugs I've seen. Just freelanced it as I went. I build a lot with styrene so I am used to just cutting and building. I use liquid styrene cement that fuses the materials together. See photo, will trim it out as I mount it, need to add some detail at roof and some Navigational lighting. Put on on 3mm plywood deck, same as hull bottom. The deck is also curved (proper term is SHEAR) and I started to build up some wood edge at the opening. Will sand everything well, then start sealing and priming all surfaces. Made a bracket for the rudder servo mount and an adjacent platform for the ESC and RX. Ordered two 6v 5ah SLA batteries. I will wire in parallel to stay with 6v and get 10ah. I like to stay with 6 volts as I want the motor to run slow like a tug should. Will wire in an in-line fuse. Haven't decided where I will put switch, up high somewhere to avoid water. I will show the wiring once I get to it. This build is going fast because it's a simple design, just what I was looking for. I work on it late afternoons and into the evening while I watch basketball games. About 4 hrs a day. Looking forward to building the hatch and getting some primer started tomorrow. Regards, Joe 👍

Sailing Ship Peking by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
Hi Nerys, Sometimes Wiki is better than Google😉 Hope this helps. Cheers, Doug 😎 https://www.wikiwand.com/en/Peking_(ship) "Refurbishment in Germany On August 2, 2017, she was transferred to Peters Werft located at Wewelsfleth for a 3 year refurbishment at estimated cost of €32 million: New rigging New double floor steel plates Dismounting of all masts, because these are too rotten Docking in dry-dock and renewal of the steel structure Removal of the cement that fills the lower three and a half metres of the Hull The ship spent about a year in dry dock. Peking was refloated on 07 September 2018 with Primer paint Hull. She stayed on Peters Werft Pier for about 2 months and goes to dry dock again. Teak will be reinstalled before she will be taken to Hamburg to the German Port Museum. There might also be an opportunity to make her sail again." Here the refloating (video) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sriop2oV1w8

Tow hook assembly by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
The white metal fitting has an awful lot of detail on it but lacks definition so some time spent on filling the body to better define the components. The anchor part has six hex dummy bolts cast into the base but I intend to drill these out and then use 8BA brass bolts to secure it to the woodwork. Looking at pictures of the assembly it is obvious that there is a handle arrangement missing so I made this from a piece of brass wire and epoxied in place. The two parts have a linkage to fasten them together so again using brass wire and a piece of scrap tube a linkage was made and holes drilled and tapped to secure the assembly. Finally, a couple of coats of primer followed by a “Gun Metal” finish and the items are finished. A pleasing result, however taking some time to do, now for the circular running rail, and supporting posts to complete this unit. Michael T

Spraying Again....... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Agreed Boaty 👍 With a plastic or glass fibre hull it's a slightly different kettle of fish. However I'm still wary of the primer absorbing moisture.🤔 Sealing with a matt or silk lacquer seems to give an extra knot or so as well😉 But here we were discussing wooden hulls. Cheers, Doug 😎

Spraying Again....... by boaty Admiral   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Doug Red primer certainly is porus and does need some protection when used on a wooden hull. The only exception to this is when the hull is plastic then plastic primer can be used. It adheres better than the standard primer and is readily available from the likes of Halfords etc. I have used this on my Italeri P.T 109 and is still good seven years on. Boaty😁

Spraying Again....... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Mornin' Peter, Red primer can be a good match for some anti-fouling paints. If you are happy with the colour - fine. BUT!! Seal the primer paint with several thin coats of matt or silk clear varnish for the reasons mentioned to Neville above! Primer is porous!! Flatten the primer with 1000 / 1500 wet n dry until your fingertips tell you the surface is good. Apply the varnish in several thin coats, flattening lightly with 2000 / 3000 w&d between coats, until you have a good sealed surface. The varnish (or lacquer) will also give some extra protection against knocks and bangs 😊 Cheers, Doug 😎

Spraying Again....... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Mornin' Neville, ."How wet is wet"? Hold the paper under a running tap, warm water, until it goes dark all over. Remove excess water with kitchen roll. You don't have to flood the hull but keep the paper well wetted. For convenience I use the Tamiya sanding sponges. They mould themselves to any shape they are used on which is great for compound curves. Keep a bowl of warm water handy to re-wet the paper or sponge from time to time and to clean of the residue that builds up on the paper. Also regularly wipe off the slurry that builds up on the object you are sanding with kitchen roll or a damp flat dense kitchen sponge. When you are finished wash off the hull (or whatever) with the the flat sponge and clean water. Dry off carefully with kitchen roll or non-linting cloth. DON'T do a bath test with just primer on the hull as the primer is porous! It consists mostly of finely ground chalk dust or similar in a solvent suspension. Wait until you have at least the first top coat on to seal it. You only have to look at a car with a primed wing, that has then been driven around in typical British weather for a few weeks, to see why!! Don't forget the 'secret ingredient' 😉 All the best, Doug 😎 PS Nearly forgot 😲 Start using a few drops of liquid soap on the w&d from the final preparation of the primer coat through til the end.

Spraying Again....... by MouldBuilder Admiral   Posted: 3 months ago
Really useful information here. I will take it all on board. I would like to know though if the primer red is the ideal colour for your top coat for antifouling, can it remain as primer only or is it necessary to go to a proper top coat paint. Thanks.🤓😊