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>> Home > Tags > programming

programming
programming card
swimming pool
programming
All hooked up, nowt happens... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Steve, Sorry to have to correct you BUT changing the Running & reverse Mode IS described in the instructions posted, see Step 3 , as shown in attached Snipping Tool clip. After selecting 'Running Mode' as the parameter to change (Step 2) wait for the two beeps close together. Then immediately shove the throttle stick forward. You should then hear the 'special tone' which tells you that you selection has been saved. Move the stick full back within 2 secs of this tone and you exit the programming mode and all should be stored. If you still have to command reverse twice then the ESC may simply not be capable of normal For/Rev. Although the table indicates that it is. I often wonder why folk buy this stuff without instructions! Just to save a few shekels? Or was it found in a flea market or donated? Cheers, Doug 😎

All hooked up, nowt happens... by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Steve, have you calibrated the throttle first? (read 2 and 2.2) on the instructions, You have to give the ESC a full, low and mid-point throttle position before you can start the programming. Plug in motor and ESC BEC lead into throttle position in REC. Turn on TX and give it full throttle. (make sure motor is held firmly as it may kick hard if started) Program - plug in batt wait 2 secs for beeps then wait 5 secs for musical tone (now in program mode) wait for 1,2,3 or 4 beeps (asks which program you want and will keep cycling through till you chose one) as soon as you hear the no of beeps for the program you want quickly pull the stick to the bottom and wait for the reply,- it will now cycle through the programs in step 3. Choose the one you want in the same manner as the last selection but by moving the stick to full throttle (if you miss it it will cycle round again) Hold it there and it will reply (musical beeps) wait and the program will return to step 2 and you can select the next setting to enter and repeat the process. Safest to set Auto battery and then the others as per chart especially min batt volts. Once happiness filled, follow the Program Exit instructions (step 4) Also as 'RN' previously mentioned, if you have a Futaba, you may have to reverse the throttle to make it all work. When finished, unplug batt, turn off TX, re start everything (TX, Batt/RX) and check. AS A PRECAUTION,MAKE THROTTLE NEUTRAL BEFORE RE STARTING IF YOU HAVE SET FWD AND REV, OR LOW IF NOT. BE AWARE THROTTLE MAY BE REVERSED ALSO). You may have to have a few goes but you will get there and realize it's not that difficult after all . If in doubt just un-plug the battery and start steps again. Just think of it like the ESC is asking you "do you want this"? at a particular set of beeps, and you are replying by moving the stick, or ignoring that question and moving to the next one. If you are using a pistol grip TX just let the trigger go and it will give you neutral/center (as per instructions 2.2

All hooked up, nowt happens... by steve-d Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Right I'm in a similar position. Plugged it all in an just got beeping noises. After some fiddling it all fired up. But, somehow I have programmed it but don't know with what info. The motor will run but not both ways. Is off at the mid position and is at full chat with less than half lever travel. The ESC is a Top Edge SC060B and I have been unable to find any instructions. So, what can be programmed in? How do I get it back into programming mode? The instructions earlier in this thread mention a 'brake mode' but give no indication what this is? Help

Ship rudders by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Toby, that's exactly why I do not use a 'Dumbphone' for such things. I also have a Samsung so called smartphone, I use it for telephoning (now there's novel) and SMS and occasional snapshots if I don't have a real camera with me. First thing I do with a Smartphone is dump all the the bl***y pre installed Apps that I don't need and just take up memory space or constantly try to 'Call Home' and demand updates😡 As you have discovered; it's the Apps that are smart (or not😲) and NOT the phone itself. Like any computer; 'Rubbish in = Rubbish out'! Before I left UK to work in Germany I worked for a year or so with the then Home Office Radio Regulatory Department and the then 'start up' Vodafone on Acceptance Test systems for the phones and surveying for cell sites. It was pretty clear even then, reading between the operating software lines, where things were going! My first job here in Munich was reprogramming a test system for mobile phones so that it actually did what was needed to simulate the network and prove all functions of the mobiles. Searching for cell sites with two great guys from the Home Office labs was a lot more fun - but the Germans paid better 😁 As you rightly noted 'Ich bin ein Nachteule'! Aber jetzt reicht's mir auch! Gute Nacht, Cheers, Doug 😎

All hooked up, nowt happens... by rapidair65 Seaman   Posted: 3 months ago
Arun now sorted. Programming card did not work so I translated the pidgin english instructions for the ESC and it worked using the Tx. I now have forward and reverse, correct prop rotation and no battery protection. Also the water cooling system for the ESC works with the water exiting from the exhausts on the stern. On the down side the nav lights have stopped working! Pictures of installation and finished boat later.

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 3 months ago
Doug, you are probably correct and good thought regarding the polarised caps , but I was just thinking that if the battery input was going through a fuse system as it appears in Rowens photos (difficult to see) it may have caused a slight problem. I have seen mentions of up to 12" between batt and ESC being no problem at lower Amps. You might notice that one of the inputs was from a guy from Castle Creations (USA) which I thought would give a bit of weight to the information. I have always gone with the ESC manufacturers suggestions regarding wire length and have never had a problem in boats or planes (mainly in planes,-18 most 'converted' to electric from IC -3 capable of pulling 1200W) It's great to be able to chuck ideas and info around, as we can all pick something out of it all which will solve a problem, or perhaps stop us from toasting an electronic component or whatever. BTW, I saw somewhere that extending the wires could cause stuttering and that was one other reason for mentioning the info, as I know Rowen's had a problem with that. I'm sure it will be ok as is,- if its working fine, and it's not going to be run flat out every day it will probably last for years. Probably me thinking on the cautious side as my personal approach to building is to use the K.I.S.S method (may not be the flashest but usually keeps me out of trouble) Regarding the quality of ESCs, you will find that many have the same internal bits just with different cases and colours, (same with chargers) HK is bad for this. Many I have seen use an Atmega chip and you can tell differences by the programming method (some you have to do 1 step and disconnect power before the next step, others just with stick forward center back center etc. Most boards are made in China (Castle Creations and a few others being exceptions) and what you get depends on the quality of assembly/soldering etc in the plant they are made in (if you want to see how many of these items are made in China check out Made In China.com and search ESCs for example. I have cheap ESCs I've used in my planes for years with no probs which look like the HK Red Brick ESCs (except blue) and they are better than the TGY branded ones at 3x the price, and really let the power through !. Even CC have apparently made boards for HK with different cases as have Hobbywing. It's really a case of "you pays ya money and ya takes ya chances". In saying that you are pretty safe with Hobbywing, Tamya, SkyRc, or Castle Creations (USA) but there are other better non China ones around but a a much bigger price. Hope we aren't overloading you Rowen, you might have to get into the 'anti-freeze' to soothe the brain in that cold weather. Another site for you to check out which I have found to be very good, with prices to match HK is RCEcho.com (Hong Kong) Have bought most of my aircraft ESCs from them (around 28 from 30A-120A with no probs)

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Doug, Am using the HobbyKing 50A Boat ESC 4A UBEC along with their programming card. The diode explanation makes sense so will fit one. jbkiwi My battery -ESC and ESC -motor wires are short, probably around 4" each. The addition of capacitors as suggested is intriguing as have never heard of it before. Think it is easier to keep things together in a boat, whereas with an aircraft pitch trim becomes a factor. Am using 2S batteries with a 50A ESC, with the motor max current of 30 A. Have you any idea what size of capacitor I should use? The Tx/Rx combinations are almost infinite as the ESCs are programmable too. Just wish the ice would go so can experiment! Thanks both for your help, with this hobby you never stop learning.

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Rowen, Re Relays. The so called 'back emf' (reverse voltage) is caused when you switch off the relay. The magnetic field collapses and the energy is releases as a voltage spike with opposite polarity to the 'pull in' voltage. Since you are using an electronic switch this spike could damage the output transistor of the switch.😡 The diode is connected across the relay coil as a blocking diode, i.e. back to front wrt the operating voltage, and absorbs the spike. Each and any relay coil needs one! This is a manifestation of the induction effect which makes E-motors and generators work 😉 Capacitors: Parallel!! An idea with the Y lead👍 You'll lose the 'tank' steering assistance function though.😲 Happy experimenting, cheers, Doug 😎 PS I use the same alarms, also good for testing batteries on the bench, and ESCs from the same Quicrun range (in my Sea Scout for example), reliable and simple to set up. Even simpler if you buy the little programming card for them. Only a few bucks and well worth it. I've been wondering if it's the response of your ESCs which causes your 'modulation' problem! Remind me; which ESCs are you using? PPS have a look here for an explanation of the suppression (flyback) diode and how to connect it 😊 https://www.wikiwand.com/en/Flyback_diode

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Thanks jbkiwi and RN in Munich for your suggestions: Have never used Ali Express, those components look interesting. Will follow up. I have used a battery alarm of the type suggested and it does work well. Have a couple for use once back on water. The rule about adding a capacitor into the ESC circuit is new to me. Have ferrite rings fitted so will now explore adding capacitors too. Are these is series or parallel with the wiring? The relays are not used with diodes or any electronic gubbins. Wanted to make the circuit as simple as possible for a Mechanical Engineer, so used one separate relay per ESC. The relay operation is controlled by a RC switch off another Rx channel. It seems to work. Am aware of the back feed possibilities and hope to have avoided them with the separate circuits. Appreciate any thoughts though, can add diodes if necessary. Am using a new FLYSKY 10 Ch. Tx/Rx on this model which opens up a host of programming opportunities. Am experimenting with various features such an the interval between Fwd/Rv also limiting ESC response. As am now using the brushless motors essentially in unison, also toying with controlling the 2 x ESCs on a “Y” lead on a single control. Much to think about, pity our winter has arrived early and the pond has been converted to a skating rink.

All hooked up, nowt happens... by rapidair65 Seaman   Posted: 3 months ago
The Arun lives! All wiring completed this morning, Tx turned on, stick full forward, boat turned on, esc bleeped, stick to neutral, more bleeps, advanced throttle, both props turn in correct direction for ahead propulsion, motors stop when returned to neutral. No reverse yet so it looks like the esc will need programming. Down at Derby Model Boat Club tomorrow to consult our programming guru. Result!👍

All hooked up, nowt happens... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Mornin' Martin, I've never used a trigger throttle (and never want to!) but I suspect that yanking back is Full throttle, which means you need to push it forward for programming!! Corresponding to stick back (or down) on a normal two stick set. Which is motor stop on such an aircraft ESC with no bacckuds. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS: just checked the manual for a typical Flysky Pistol Grip set (usual Chinglish gibberish🤔) but it confirms that trigger hard back is 'Full Ahead' !! BTW: since you appear to be using an aircraft ESC on a Car/Boat radio set (not a good idea!) make sure that before you switch on the RX that the throttle trigger is pushed right forward. Otherwise the motor will go off half cock straight away. If you release the trigger it will probably go to the 'Half Ahead' position. So mind your fingers.😡

All hooked up, nowt happens... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Doug, as you can probably guess, I have as much chance of programming an ESC as flying with my own wings to Munich! The ESC didn't come with any instructions. I didn't know they needed them! More to the point, how the Hell can a motor beep? Where's the beeping kit in a motor with one moving part? So, now what. It's a Flysky pistol grip 3 channel (third is a switch) set of Tx and pre bound Rx. The ESC ? Gawd knows, a flat thing inside a big yellow heat shrink casing. I got it from China recently. All I can do is take a picture of it with my nice new camera tomorrow. Does it matter which way round those three wires go on the motor? I'll post pictures tomorrow. Thanks, Martin

All hooked up, nowt happens... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Dear Martin, the motor is beeping because the ESC is telling you it needs programming. It sends a series of pulses to the motor to do this. Programming means telling the ESC where is neutral on the throttle stick, and where are full ahead and full astern. Check the ESC instructions to see how to do this. If you get stuck again tell me exactly which TX, RX and ESC you are using and I'll see what I can do. Cheers, Doug BTW; IF you do decide to ditch all your 'working stuff' please send me an inventory for first dibs!! 😁👍

Mcgregor 1990s transmitter/receiver by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Looks perfect Mike, no programming, uncomplicated to use for the littlun, and at that price what have you got to lose? Don't dump the 35Meg set, you never know when you might need it! Like me and my Sanwa 35Meg set, 30 odd years old and still works fine so I keep it as backup for my Catalina. It's great that your getting your grandson started, we're gonna need replacements for the Old Codger Guard some time, and that includes me😉🤓 All the best, Doug 😎

PT 109 upgrade? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Not necessarily Bubble, By correctly programming the ESC for a soft start and a not too aggressive acceleration curve you can tame brushless at low speed and stop 'em leaping ahead like scalded cats! Worked fine on my Sea Scout upgrade. Even adjusting the motor timing can help with the fine tuning. Cheers, Doug 😎