At last The Wave Princess sails again. She is not quite planing yet. She has a Speed 600, cheap '320' amp esc, Macgregor MR23A receiver and a Carson Reflex CS3 servo, 12" Graupner propshaft. Quite proud of the home made prop support, I will never throw out an aluminium cooking pan again. Rookie problems are: 1. slight bend in prop makes it a little noisy but improved with vaseline and WD40 mix. 2. Have a 50mm prop at the moment will reduce that to 30mm and work my way up until I get best result. Will change to Brass eventually. As you can see the front cabin has an incorrectly fitted visa lip which has taken me 30 years to realise, that will be rubbed down and flattened. Really pleased that my bootsale MacGregor transmitter works as if new with a few new connectors to fit the ESC. My first one of many and, hopefully, tidier boats. Any advice and guidance would be warmly welcomed
Hi RN From Hobbyking. Motor propdrive V2 2830- 1000kv 370watts 3.175mm shaft(9190000328-0)3S or 4S lipo battery. ESC 30A car(HK-30A)( XT60 connectors required), program card (HKPROG-CARD)can be used on the larger ones in the series. Lipo battery Turnigy 1000mah 3S 30C (T1000.3s.20) 89grams 75 x 33 x 19mm or a Turnigy 1500mah 3S 25C (T1500.3S.25) 113 grams 80 x 34 x 25 mm both have XT60 connectors. Prop about a 2 blade 30mm 1.4 pitch. Hope this helps.
Hi Allan Glad to hear you have managed to get the boat running. Just so we know what is the final set up? I can see a 12v 7Ahr battery but What is the prop size & type, brushless motor, ESC. You have mentioned these before but may have bought different recently. Looks a good pool to use. As it is saltwater you will need to wash the model down after each sail and oil the propshaft. Salt crystals will destroy any bearings very quickly if you don't. Happy sailing Dave
The pic posted by Inkoust says it all really. The original Aerokits and many other models from the 1960s all had steep angled propshafts. This was necessary to allow for the large IC engines fitted. Modern electric motors do not require the same depth inside the hull so the prop shaft can be mounted at a much lesser angle, producing a faster and more controllable model. It would be relatively easy to alter your set-up before you add the rest of the skins. Even with a 50mm prop there is still about an inch to lose. I appreciate this may not be your first choice but believe the end result will justify the effort Dave
All getting involved now! I suspect it looks worse in the pictures because the prop thrust will definitely pass over the rudder although perhaps not ideally. And I don't have a cardan shaft, just a uj because as I said, simple appealled for a part time hobby as this is to me. My aim was to see if I could form the wooden hull like my Dad did on the fireboat cos I always admired the shape but of course I would like to finish the job eventually 😀
Hi, Prop shaft seems, to my eyes, to be at a very steep angle! Would have thought it reduces forward thrust and / or tends to push the bow down. Is this normal for this type of boat? Maybe I'm just more used to displacement hulls, destroyers etc. Cheers Doug 😎
Hearty Congrats 👍 What sort of noise? Can you feel any vibrations from the motor and/or coupling - prop shaft? Carefully test motor / shaft with your finger tips!! Dry bearing somewhere perhaps? cheers Doug 😎
first take a deep breath and calm down its not rocket science. Question does your ESC have a battery eliminator ? if so take away the dry batteries to use in something else. Now your nicads connect to the POWER side of the esc. make sure you have the correct polarity. The servo plug from the ESC plugs into your receiver whichever is your throttle channel. If you have a modern set then you can put it on the wrong way round with no worries since positive is the centre post. The output of the ESC connect to your motor. If its a brushed motor no need to worry about polarity for now. With your ESC there should be some setup instructions if there are none ...... Usually its connect and switch on receiver then switch transmitter on with throttle full listen for beeps then go to low throttle. Switch receiver off. When you switch on in future make sure transmitter is switched on FIRST ok having gotten this far it only remains to check the direction of rotation of the motor. Take off the prop ( saves fingers) and put a piece of masking tale around end of prop shaft. Switch on transmitter switch on receiver and try the throttle. If the motor spins in correct direction fine if not Brushed motor swap the motor leads over Brushless motor swap any 2 of the 3 motor leads over. Job done have a cuppa then decide to sort out the rudder.
Hi Sonar I often use this type of coupling. Easy to turn up a piece of brass to suit the shaft, drill a couple of threaded holes for ss lock grub screws or thread to suit the prop shaft. I have used silicon exhaust tubing but car heater tube is just as good. The locking bits of brass are essential to prevent slippage. I have even used the slotted type brass couplings from universal joints as they are available in a variety of bores and threads. Make for very strong and smooth coupling with no noise. Dave
Hello, These couplings are used in Radio equipment, but only usually found at Amateur Radio Rally's, and with 1/4" plain holes with grub screws, except i beleive Prop Shop used to sell them in various hole/shaft sizes, don't know about buying new, possible that RS Components have them, or such like stores. Good Luck....Muddy....
Wayne I suspect it has to do with alignment. Many model boats have motors and prop shafts that are slightly out of alignment and benefit from a universal joint type connector that allows for this. Stepper motors and their loads are usually build to tight specs where the drive and load are in absolute alignment. I inherited a box full of similar couplers but with heavy springs in the middle (where yours have slots). The previous owner used to build his own equipment and was into mechanics and lathe work as well as electrics and model boats. If you can get the drive train in line I believe they should work. If you are considering using on your model a further post on the outcome would be great. Dave
She is a 50" 26 cc petrol engine boat. She runs very well and sits on the water on the turns as if she is stuck to it. Like an idiot I run her up the side of the pond and she now needs both a new propshaft and prop.
[Score: 8/10] 50" PT 109 Capable of 15mph Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type) Direct Drive to a 26CC PETROL ENGINE (2 Blade X Type) Powered by NiMH (6v) Batteries - Comments: She handles very well on the water, great on turns it's like she is stuck to the water. Hardly any roll at all. But then like an idiot I ran her up the side of the pond and now need a new prop and prop shaft fitted.
PS When I reassembled it, and properly aligned everything on a flat board while tightening the nuts, I was astounded and happy to find that there was practically no slop in the so called bearings. I'm still considering fitting sintered PB (that metal again!) though! For longer life. Nearest bearing I have is 2.0mm ID. Anyone got a 2.4mm drill? According to my micrometer the shaft is 2.38mm. Nearest I got is 2.5, too sloppy, worse than the paxolin is 🤔 😎
I am not an electric sort of bloke. What surprises me with the problem is that everything worked well for a long time. She has basically the same set up as my other ships, basically simple. Battery, speed control, two motors turning two shafts, with shafts lubricated. The battery fully charged, the radio and receiver set up okay, motors run with no problem when fed current directly, and no problems with prop shafts. Maybe my best bet is to simply obtain another control same as original. I get the impression the Duratrax is meant for cars?