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>> Home > Tags > prop shaft

prop shaft
propshaft alignment
shaft diameter
brass prop
prop tube
racing prop
prop shaft
Huntsman 31 by Will-I-Am Petty Officer   Posted: 4 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 34"/2500g Huntsman 31 Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 45mm) Direct Drive to a 3548 1100kv (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 5Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Hobbyking car esc (50Amps) ESC - Comments: The boat is an original Modav kit built in the early 1980s fitted with anEnya 35bb111 and recently renovated and fitted with a brushless motor new prop shaft and electrics. Model is still to be completed windscreen and fittings still to complete.

engine by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Evenin' Hammer, For smaller milling bits have a look at the Proxxon range. From them I have bits down to 1mm 😊 Those are what I use for milling depressions and slots into shafts for securing keys or grub screws. Not cheap but they do the job time and time again. That's what I used on the new shaft for my Sea Scout, and will use on the prop shaft that Martin made for me for Gina 2👍 Quality has it's price, especially in mini machine tools 😉 I don't have a rotary table either, so the 'banana' slots I make with a diamond file like you do👍 Simple machining ... OK, but conceiving, designing and creating such magnificent machines as you do ...... way beyond the capabilities of a simple electronic engineer, Hat Off Sir 👍👍👍 looking forward to your next steps with great anticipation. Cheers, Doug 😎 Amazing coincidence with the name Gina! 😊 Greetings to her as well😉

Hull Pt2: Motorisation - Come What May!! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi again Mike, forgot to mention the false floor bit! Sorry, no pics - shipyard design secret! 😁 No, haven't got that far yet. Still have to make the gear end plates so I can get the shaft spacing / gear meshing right, i.e. height of the motor above the prop shaft. Plan is to fix an ally plate into the hull with captive 4mm domed nyloc nuts fixed in it. The Taycol has right angled brass mounting brackets for vertical fixing so I shall mount it using 4mm bolts with compression springs between the brackets and the ally plate. The nyloc nuts SHOULD hold things in position! That way I should be able to adjust the motor height and tilt in any direction (well, pitch and roll anyway!) to get the two shafts parallel in the vertical plane and optimum meshing of the gears and minimum vibration. That's the theory anyway 😉 Then I only have to worry about getting the shafts aligned in the horizontal plane, the 'Yaw'. Which should be relatively easy with careful fitting of the ally plate. Minor yaw adjustment could be accommodated by opening out the bracket holes to curved slots with a diamond file. Objective is max power transfer with minimum noise and friction. Not to mention easier mounting than fiddling about with shims! And I don't have to worry about not getting the angle of the ally plate in the hull dead right 😊 Accurate measurements inside this sloppily built hull are virtually impossible! There are no right angles or straight lines or even symmetry where you would normally expect them 😲 So no true reference points or datum lines. We'll see. Cheers, Doug 😎 Ooops! Somehow my response to the motor conversion 'secrets' slipped into the previous Update!? See below in 'A Messy Business'.

Which motor by Helineil Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 5 days ago
Could someone advise on which motor to use in a smit amsterdam tug of approx 40 ins long with a 4 blade 3 ins dia. Prop and 4 mm. shaft, I want to run on 12v sealed lead acid battery. I am not going to tow anything but would still like a bit of power. Cheers. Neil.

Hull Pt2: Motorisation - Come What May!! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
As promised (or threatened?😁) stage two of the hull work and thoughts on motorisation. The hull was sprayed with two coats of grey primer/filler. Pic1. As usual this showed up the remaining imperfections (pics 2 & 3), but I'm not going to worry about them until I've got prop shaft tube and rudder stock sorted out and permanently fitted 😉 After my attempts to make and thread a 3mm prop shaft went awry Martin (Westway the Mechanicals Master👍) stepped in and made me a decent one complete with a bushed stuffing tube 👍 Vielen Dank Meister😊 I did however manage to make a 4mm to 3mm reducer so that I could fit a Rabeosch 35mm prop as seen in pics 2 & 3. The tube and shaft from Martin, arrived Saturday an' he only made it on Monday😊, have been dry fitted so that I can start setting up the gears, necessary to bring the drive down to the prop shaft fitted very low down in the hull, and motor mount. Pic 4. Motorisation: (Remember folks - this kit was designed and built as a static model!) I want to use the old 1950s Taycol Target motor which my Dad originally fitted in the Sea Scout which I have renovated and upgraded to brushless. See Build blog 'Sea Scout - Jessica' Many of you will know that the Taycol motors were field coil motors, meaning that they have no permanent magnet around the rotor coil, and thus reversing the battery connections to the brushes had no effect on the direction of rotation, as this simply reversed the magnetic fields of both stator and rotor coils🤔 To counteract this so that the motor could be used in both forward and reverse with a conventional brushed ESC I modified the motor slightly (separated the two coils) and built a simple converter board to connect it to the ESC. Again see the Sea Scout blog for the details of the conversion. Basically; once the field coil and brush-gear (rotor coil) have been separated a simple diode bridge can be used to apply the output of the ESC to the motor. This enables the reversal of EITHER field OR rotor coil polarity, depending on how you connect the converter to the motor. Thus reversing the direction of rotation of the motor. Beneficial side effect is that the diodes also suppress the commutator sparking😊 In my case, with the Taycol Target, I also cleaned, flattened and polished the commutator. Thus significantly reducing the potential for spark generation in the first place! A peculiarity of the Taycol motors is that they all use metal brushes, pressed phosphor bronze strip, so they need oiling! DO NOT oil conventional brushed motors with carbon brushes unless the brushes are exchangeable or you want to have to buy a new motor!!!!! Pics 5 & 6 show the proposed position of the Taycol in Gina 2 and pic 7 the prototype converter board I knocked up to test the motor, together with a Graupner Navy V30R Marine Brushed ESC. Details and results in the Sea Scout blog, including video of the sparks and oscilloscope pics of the drive waveforms before and after conversion! The latter showing the spark suppression effect of the converter😊 Some samples attached - last 3 pics. Pic 8 pic shows a more compact version of the converter, one of a few types I'm doing for Martin's various Taycols as a trade for the prop shaft he made for me and some useful material he sent. Thanks mate👍 Next steps will be 1) mounting the gears correctly on the shafts, requiring the manufacture of a 3/32" to 4mm adaptor and a 1/8" to 4mm adaptor, and keying them to the shafts - Hooray for mini milling machines 😉 2) manufacturing bushed end plates to hold the gears in place, 3) fitting the motor mounting platform. I'll probably borrow from my experiences of real shipbuilding and do this as a suspended 'false floor', i.e. mounted on stiff springs to enable adjustments to optimise the gearing mesh! On real naval ships this is done to improve shock resistance and to minimise engine noise / vibration conduction to the hull, thus significantly reducing the acoustic signature of the ship. Not that I'm tooo worried about being torpedoed 😁 Worth a try😉 Pic 9 shows the cleaned up and renovated Taycol Target motor. Pic 10 shows the drive waveform complete with sparks before modification.🤔 Pic 11 the cleaned 'forward' waveform with the converter board. Pic 12 the cleaned 'reverse' waveform, no suppression capacitors needed 😉 More soon folks, Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Along the way a new keel was fitted as can be seen in pics 1 to 3. The original builder had 'buried' the keel in the hull planking! 😲

Gina 2 Billing Boats Fish Cutter - Restoration & Conversion by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Evenin' Mike, guess you're right 🤔 Bit of a departure for me I admit, and after I'd cleaned all the crud off and realised how shoddy and weak the hull was I wondered if I'd bitten off more than I can chew😲 However progress has been made😊 I hate to be beaten! See next update 'Motorisation - Come What May!' You'll recognise the topic from the discussion on dies and threading silver steel prop shafts😉 I'm multiplexing this project with a PTB renovation and refit! Like most boat modellers 'a glutton for punishment'. Cheers, Doug 😎

Windows, stoopid question. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Good tip Mike 👍 thanks. What hassle Martin? Reichelt are on my side of the channel and the delivery is much cheaper😉 Could use an angle grinder for other jobs too, but not the huge things in most DIY stores. Will check what Reichelt has. As for Dremel; recently bought a set of their Speed-Clic cutting, sanding and polishing attachments. Amongst them were a couple of diamond tipped metal discs. Haven't tried 'em yet though. Anyway new proper cutting dies and a decent holder, + tail-stock die holder are on their way from Tracy. So I should be armed for the next task in this area - threading the 4 shafts on my Belfast 😊 Cheers, Doug 😎

Fitting Propshafts by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Was just pullin' your chain a little 😁 Sorry🤔 I'll do a quick measure up for the cutter 😉

Fitting Propshafts by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Rather than a model of a rope making machine, Doug, this is a machine for making model rope. Always wanted one, in case I ever make that marvellous wooden ship model. Martin

Fitting Propshafts by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Interesting! Didn't know there is a market for such models 😁

Fitting Propshafts by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
I bought one of those bags of gears and got just enough to make a model rope making machine. Martin

Fitting Propshafts by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
keep it for 7 years and if it doesn't come in handy save it for another 7

Fitting Propshafts by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Yep, You just never know when STUFF will come in handy do you?😉

Fitting Propshafts by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Afternoon Doug, See, this is why I too. Go around buying different supplies!

Fitting Propshafts by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Mornin Ed, 1 to 1. Basically cos that's what I've got in those big nylon cogs. Want to use the nylon ones cos they are wide, so more freedom of movement aligning them, and they should be quieter than metal gears. Think they came from old printers! Bought a batch of assorted cogs and pulleys at a flea market here years ago. Now they're coming in handy😊 Main purpose is to get the drive down to the propshaft which is mounted very low down in the hull as can be seen in the pics above 😲 Cheers, Doug 😎