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>> Home > Tags > prop shaft

prop shaft
propshaft alignment
shaft diameter
brass prop
prop tube
racing prop
prop shaft
Various Boat Building Items Inc Motor etc. by justintime2001 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
All items are brand new, unopened & unused. Buy 1 item or several. Boat ESC Programming Card x 1 90A Boat ESC 4A SBEC x 1 11.1V 5000mAh 35C continuous discharge lipo battery x 2 Tornado Thumper V2 4260/06 500KV - Brushless Outrunner RC Motor x 1 Canopy Glue Formula 560 x 1 Prop Shaft - 13" Maxidrive ( 8mm Tube/5mm Inner ) x 1 Propshaft Grease x1 Universal Joint x 1 Propshaft Oiler Clamp Kit x 1 XL Brass Rudder x 1 Waterproof Toggle Switch x 1 ZAP Z Poxy x 1 Dual Power iMAX B6 AC Lipo NiMh RC Battery Balance Charger/Discharger x 1 Woven Glass Twill 100g 1m Wide x 3 EL2 Epoxy Laminating Epoxy 770g + AT30 Epoxy Hardener Slow 230g x 1 30 Amp Inline Mini Blade Fuse Holder & Fuse (Splashproof) x 1 Flexible Silicone Wire Cable 14AWG Red & Black x 1 5 Pairs XT-60 Male Female Lipo Battery Connectors Plugs x 1 Open to all sensible offers.

More running gear by andycoburn Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
Propshaft and rudder assembly. Aligning the propshaft with a laser level

Handed props by Haverlock Admiral   Posted: 10 days ago
its a little safer to take props off and put a piece of masking tape over the ends of the prop shafts. That way you can check rotation directions and keep a full set of fingers ~laughs~

Richards 48" Swordsman by rmwall107 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 29 days ago
I have purchased a new prop shaft as suggested by Dave M. i am going to insert thrust roler bearings each end adjusted up so there is no slack. i will let you know how it goes.

Kingfisher progress by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Last time I looked the plan clearly showed the rudder well clear of the stern. The prop shaft was much further forward than shown in your latest post. The problem is the rudder post will be too near the transom stern to allow you to fit a linkage to your servo. You need to mark on the hull from the plan where the rudder should be fitted and fit it then adjust the prop shaft to the correct position. Not sure how much room you have between the prop and hull but one solution would be to remove the propshaft and bearing then cut the prop tube and skeg so that there was enough space for the rudder and refit the bearing and propshaft. The alternative is to unglue the prop shaft assembly and move forward to give the space. I believe you used the plans to set the slot in the hull so it should all fit. Sorry probably not what you wanted to hear but your present layout doesn't allow for rudder control. If you wan't to discuss please send me a pm and I will offer any further help you require Dave

Kingfisher progress by Grandpa Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Sanded off the K 3 and will apply filler tomorrow. Installed prop shaft assembly and short skew. Removal of extra threaded sectionpast prop will to done too. Must make rudder and install it, the rudder will extend out past the stern.

Richards 48" Swordsman by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Richard Whilst the delamination appears local chance are the fuel has penetrated well into the laminates together with water. Use whatever you want to patch the damage but a fresh piece of ply will probably be cheaper and more resilient. Cascamite will not work well with cyano. I would, after sorting the damage, use a thin resin poured and swilled around the hull insides to seal, followed by a covering of glass fibre or cloth over the outside impregnated with polyester lay up resin. You can fill any resulting blemishes with car body filler. As the model had an ic engine chances are the prop shaft will be showing signs of its age. Even if the bearings appear ok'ish the shaft is most likely bent or twisted. I suggest whilst you are sorting out the delamination you purchase a new unit of the same size. Most modern kit is metric so your shaft should fit any props and couplings you purchase. Some use an allen key to secure the coupling so this may not apply. Don't forget to fix a locknut and thrust washer at either end of the prop tube. If you look at the blogs on this site there are several example of how others have completed similar tasks Hope this helps Please keep asking if you need any further help Dave

Richards 48" Swordsman by rmwall107 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
Hello I bought an old swordsman from a friend recently and have started to refurbish it This will be my first foray into refurbishing wood models so I think I will learn a lot! It was a gas-powered boat but this will change to electric. So far, I have sanded the paint back to the wood and have filled the bow section damage. I have found an area around the hole for the prop shaft that has delaminated and come away from the keel. My plan is I am going to use Zap ultra-thin penetrating CA to re laminate the ply sheet. then use cascamite glue to reseal all the joints around the hull. Would this be a good way to repair this damage or is there a better way? I will keep this thread up dated with new photos and progress reports over the coming weeks. Richard i am going to use Zap penit

raf crash tender by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Dave, good to hear from you (sorry to hijack thread). 4 footer came out two years ago, Huntsman once in 2016, Its over 3 years since the 3 footer got wet! Orca once in 2016. I did build the PCF which I really liked, but it went immediately as too many people messaged saying they wanted it, so it funded some RC plane gear, which I am really into now. I sold a load of bits and bobs at the Blackpool show a few months ago, didn't renew with St Helens in 2015, or 2016, and wont this year. However.... Robs excellent blog has got me interested again, and Stephen kindly did a bespoke 3 d printing project on something rc related, info and pics to follow when its finished! Back on track... George, I'm going to advise only things I have done, or used, I'm not one to say do this, or that, but actually I have not done it myself. No doubt others will disagree, but this is my opinion only. Best performance in terms of speed is brushless, and lipo. Forget fear of fire and explosions, this only happens with abuse, and they are the common use with rc planes, helicopters, cars, its only boats that are really stuck in the dark ages with technology that have this big fear of brushless systems and lipos! However, to get initially set up, they do take more understanding and initial cash outlay, as you need a specific charger for one, and you do need to understand what you are doing. Brushless motors will unlease the power far more than brushed, and are usually lighter. rnigy-t600-brushless-outrunner -for-600-heli-880kv.html This motor is an example, there are much cheaper ones with similar specs, but I have used this motor in various applications, the most similar to your boat being my large Huntsman, with this motor on 6 cells lipo I achieved 25mph, but speed might not be what you want. So if you have the fast engine in your car, say a v12 Ferrari, if you run it on cheap fuel, it wont perform, same here, nicads and nimhs batteries are easy to maintain, you can drain them dead flat, but will give cheap fuel performance, like a bath tap trickling when the shower is on at the same time, and as they are dying technology, are expensive for what they are. Lipo is like turning up both bath taps and the force floods out, but now the tank will empty quicker, so you have less run time 😊 If brushless, its a specific speed controller, bbyking-50a-boat-esc-4a-ubec.h tml and you pay extra for reversing (other rc disciplines don't need reverse) and a marine esc might need to be water cooled, however, decent brushed motor speed controllers are not exactly cheap, so now you know why budget is important to give advice, you could be spending £100 here just to get up and running. Look at my 4 foot fireboat build blog, as its twin screw (personally a boat this size is better twin screw) you can get by with cheaper motors, mine where £30 the pair, I use lipo for all my boats, so I have the batteries, and are familiar with using them, the speed controllers where about £40 the pair, and if I was buying batts then probably another £40, so it all adds up! Single screw, less batteries. You could power with nimhs, and it might be acceptable ,performance for you. If your location is Ellesmere Port, have a Sunday morning drive to Hoylake, then New Brighton, and maybe take in St Helens Liverpool, and Runcorn, see boats in action, see what sort of performance suits you, and rethink the budget, what do you want to spend? Then you need the transmitter and receiver (if you don't already have these) the fittings (see Robs build blog) a prop shaft, and a suitable propeller I am North Wirral, you are more than welcome to come and have a chat and see some boats, but unfortunately I'm deep into another rc project for the next few weeks, once that is done I can share some time, if you want! Don't worry, I'm not all about speed, I can do brushed motors and nimhs and get a result, Any questions, just ask, Paul PS... Looks like a nice clean boat you have there😉

Covering hull by manyboats Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
To get the nice reverse curve in the bows, large blocks of balsa were used; luckily got given plenty of them years ago. I did use the thin ply supplied for the hull skin as replacing it is expensive, just recut to suit. After carving the bow shape and sanding everything true I covered the hull with fine woven glass cloth, after coating the hull with spray adhesive and letting it get tacky. After 2 coats of epoxy resin and lots of wet sanding, time to fit the rudder tube and prop shaft (with 3d printed oiler) and motor mounts, then the inside was sealed with epoxy.

Skeg on King Fisher by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Grandpa Looking at the latest photos suggests the shaft and keel will be secure and if the prop is clearing the hull then the shaft may be long enough. You may need to add an extended coupling to allow for the motor. As I mentioned it would be a good idea to fit the motor, coupling shaft and prop now to make sure it all fits nice and square and runs freely. Don't forget you must have thrust washers at either end of the propshaft together with a locknut for both the coupling and prop.😁 I am in the Crewe club and Mark I believe sails with Etherow. We are both North West clubs so a few hundred miles from Canterbury. Good to hear you have a local modellers Club. Good building Dave

Skeg on King Fisher by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Yes I agree with Mark you need to have a longer propshaft and remake the keel with a slot that fits the propshaft. A short piece of wood either side of the keel inside will keep everything square and strengthen the joint. When designed the model would have had an IC engine requiring much greater clearance inside the model, resulting in a steep angle and short propshaft. If you have your motor and coupling it would be a good idea to install the whole assembly before you skin the hull. This will enable you to have a true and free running setup. Dave

Skeg on King Fisher by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Yes mate, the prop tube is about 2" short, the amount of the keel you have had to cut away has weakened the hull structure. As you are in the early stages, i would re-cut the keel with the longer shaft, and try to get the hole smaller making the shaft a tight fit will add to the strength of the keel. Just a point, the pics are far clearer with the site update

Skeg on King Fisher by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Grandpa If you refer to the plan you will see that the hull skins are flush with the keel. This is to allow the model to cut into the water and rise on the plane If your skeg will also be filed flush until just before the propshaft then this will be similar to the design but with a harder keel to protect against knocks. Good luck with the build Dave

Skeg on King Fisher by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
HI Grandpa, your drawing is much better but i would go with Dave M, just use the infill between the hull and the shaft, it will turn much better, the idea of the slight flair in front of the shaft will allow the water to part around the shaft, probably reducing the disturbance over the prop. Use a combination, reduced depth in front of the shaft, flared into the hull, then using the infill just to support the shaft Let us know what you decide. Mark