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>> Home > Tags > prop shaft

prop shaft
propshaft alignment
shaft diameter
brass prop
prop tube
racing prop
prop shaft
Tamiya- King George V. Update. by colinhubbard Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Still painting small parts, but have been limited by illness since November. Also looking for suitable motors. Have decided to use the props supplied, well two of them. Made propshafts from 1mm stainless steel and shaft tubes from 2mm O.D. brass tube. Just need to cut to length, once I have the motors. Will update again soon.

Club Racer, One class by ronrees Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 days ago
[Score: 10/10] 18"/500g Club Racer, One class Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 30mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 30mm) Direct Drive to a 2820 x 1100kv (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Turnigy w/p. 30 amp (5Amps) ESC - Comments: This is based on a Fairey Swordsman and is another of my own designs but made in Vac Formed Styrene for which the vac former was home-made as well. The model is designed specifically for youngsters and club members who want to race together. The boat only has 5 parts!! Top, bottom, rudder and servo cast assembly ( Polyester resin) and motor, prop shaft assembly also Polyester resin. A wooden frame that forms the seal and holds hull in shape. The whole top comes off. Its scarey fast and very tough (2mm styrene) and was made for under £25. Hoping build article will also go into MB magazine sometime.

Cromarty by AllenA Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Also, from the same guy, is the Cromarty. She is 30" by 6.5". Quite solid but with an odd small bore propshaft. There were a couple of makers of this kit but not sure which one this is. Again, couldn't resist for £14. I am booked in for therapy regarding my obsession. The way I look at it is that you must have it when you see it and I will, one day, restore these beauties.

Graupner Elke HF 408 by AllenA Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hope you are not becoming too bored with my boot sale stories but I seem to have hit a rich vein at the moment and can't resist. Here's the Graupner Elke HF 408 picked up on Sunday for £14. Pretty good nick with lots of bits and does not appear to have been sailed or fitted with RC. Again, any help or advice really welcome. Retro fitting a propshaft could be a problem.

The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works by mturpin013 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 8 days ago
Keel base The first puzzle was the aspect of the keel base with the first bulkhead position for B1 and the fact that they are not square and actually at 88.9 degrees This made me question as to whether the keel should lay flat on the base or the bulkhead should be in the vertical plane when fitted. This could result in a small error of the vertical B1 or a 10mm error in the keel having to be raised by 10mm at the point where the prop-shaft emerges. A quick call Michael Cummings at VMW confirmed this should be a 90 degrees not 89 degrees. Therefore the keel lays flat as I thought it should and there would be a small gap between B1 and its vertical face. Michael Cummings said he would look into this.

Spraying/hand painting by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 9 days ago
After modding my Sea Queen with the new prop shaft I decided to smarten it up as the previous spray job I did was not too good, well I have had terrible trouble with it, the first attempt saw the original paint raise as I sprayed it with a primer that was supposed to be safe with all paints, so I removed as much as i could using the heat gun and a scraper, after sanding down and filling, I started again, i had some small patches raise up where I could not get the original paint completely removed, but after letting it dry and some wet and dry I managed to get a good primer coat on it. I then decided to spray it all white, so as I have always had good results with halfords own brand I gave it some light coats of white gloss, I was unable to get a reasonable gloss finish and it also needed some more filling, funny how a gloss coat show up all the defects, well subsequent attempts at spraying were useless, run after run and a poor gloss finish. All I can think is that I could not have had the area blanketed off in the workshop warm enough and the thinners in the paint was not drying as it hit the boat and just ran. I am now half way into sanding it all back and have decided to hand paint, What is the best paint and method to getting a near spray paint finish by hand brushing?

Props by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi Chris, here is the graphic answer from the Raboesch website. Makers of some of the finest brass props and shafts around. 😊 As you can see from the pic the leading edge is actually the curved edge. General opinion is that for best rudder effect (esp. if a single rudder between two shafts) is to have the props turning inward at the top. I.e. when going ahead port prop turns clockwise (R in the pic) and the starboard prop anticlockwise (L in the pic) seen from the rear. Cheers Doug 😎

Springer by AllenA Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
[Score: 7/10] 23"/2400g Springer Capable of 8mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 50mm) Direct Drive to a LRP 12v Truck Puller (2 Blade X Type) Powered by Lead Acid (6v) 9Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese 320A with fan (5Amps) ESC - Comments: Built as a rescue boat, the Springer seemed to be the easiest to build as I am still a Novice and to while away the time after my knee replacement. Blew up some plans off the net to 23" length and 10" beam. Makes her about 1/12, I think. Built from 3mm ply in the main. Powered by the LRP 12v Truck puller and direct drive via 12" ball raced prop-shaft with home made oiler and 50mm 2 blade propeller to be changed to 3 blade asap. Led lights front, back and upper. Transmitter Turnigy TGY i6, Rx TGY iA6, Esc 320 amp with fan. Ballast yet to be added and should slow her to scale speed. Interesting build had some problems with upscaled plans from a pdf. Goes well in the bath but will post video as soon as I can get to the water.

Skiff update by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Hi Granpa, There are 3 dealers in Canada (see first pic). Aero-naut has 7 model outboards. The pics show the 2 smallest, with part numbers. Please note: They are sold without props or motors but with coupling for 4mm shafts. Here you can see the specs / dimensions of all variants The 'Retro' versions on this page come complete with in-runner motor and water cooling. The Aqua Race mini complete with motor and prop is probably the one for your skiff! Happy hunting, cheers Doug 😎

replacing propshaft by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Hi Guys, for looks i agree the transom is the place, but, it is hidden by the wake, a safe place is to 1 side or the other, you can see the water coming out Mark

replacing propshaft by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Exactly Colin 👍👍👍 That's where mine will be on my restored Sea Scout. Wonder where it was on KGV and PoW?? 😉 Merry Christmas and Happy, and above all, Healthy New Year Doug 😎

replacing propshaft by colinhubbard Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
My personal choice would be transom like an exhaust. I've done this on a few boats and can look quite realistic when sailing.

replacing propshaft by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 25 days ago
Brilliant, I have been using them for years, you can sign up for their news letter with their daily deals and stuff. A quick question to any sage, as I am doing a repaint of the hull, I thought I would fit a water pick up, which I have done, but where is the best place to fit the water outlet on a Sea Commander? To all a Happy Christmas and a prosperous New Year

replacing propshaft by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Hi Richard, ta for the tip re angle gauge 👍 Just found it and am about to order. Lots of useful 'stuff' on their site 😉 Have a good Christmas, Cheers Doug 😎

replacing propshaft by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Hi Richard, mega warning, do not try to bend the prop tube in situ, it is thin walled and large diameter, a recipe for disastrous kinking. What Canbus and RN were referring to are racing drives, and they are replaced almost after every race. Mark