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>> Home > Tags > prop shaft

prop shaft
propshaft
propshaft alignment
shaft diameter
propshop
brass prop
prop
prop tube
propeller
racing prop
prop shaft
Sea Queen Prop shaft by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 hours ago
Hi AndyG Not sure what type of coupling was supplied but I use a common Universal coupling on my 48" Sea Queen and use a brushless 42 size 850Kv water cooled motor of 700 watts and it is happy driving a Prop Shop prop of 42mm at 45 amp on full throttle. Power is from an 11.1v Lipo of at least 2200 mA but Nimhs would work, just not as fast and less duration. My motor is mounted in the main cabin and I have no problem with the prop shaft. Originally designed for IC power so perhaps you have heard of problems when we used such powerful and not so well controlled devices. My model goes on the plane very easily and any more power would make it unstable. Pics attached to show my set up. You can just see the coupling in front of the motor.

Sea Queen Prop shaft by AndyG009 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 12 hours ago
Hi all Have purchased a Sea Queen kit, and after getting info from this site plan to fit a brushless motor and Lipo's. Have been advised to change coupling from supplied, for one that will take the power - comments please. Also is there likely to be problems with more power going through the long M4 prop shaft ? I would rathersolve problems now before boat is built, so any help would be useful.

Some more hull sheeting and keel by Skydive130 Admiral   Posted: 1 day ago
This morning has seen an hour or so adding some more hull sheeting, tidying up the hole for the prop shaft and making the keel. Next decision is whether to add the keel prior to glass clothing the hull or after? My thinking is add before clothing, also fitting the prop shaft, done balsa infil between the 2 keep parts then glass cloth the whole hull for a good neat strong finish. Will add some more sheeting later once this lot has set and has been trimmed to accept next pieces.

Keel formers and prop tube placement by Skydive130 Admiral   Posted: 3 days ago
Had a pleasant morning measuring and cutting the start of the keel formers and the prop shaft formers (is that what they call a stuffing box?). Looking more like a boat instead of a box after this early stage! Next to do is Finnish the hull formers bottom and sides followed by the chimes before hull sheeting starts.

Veron Vosper RTTL 28" by Skydive130 Admiral   Posted: 5 days ago
The plans are lovely! Really remind me of my keilkraft days as a nipper! Obviously the model was designed when ic motors where the norm, however with the advent of brushless motors and limo batteries, it now gives us the chance to rebuild these classics from yesteryear with cheap electronics! I think motor, esc, lipo and prop shaft cost about £30, wood another £30 odd, a few odds n ends from the spares box, should have a nice vintage model built for less than £80 allowing for any minor purchases! Will start building again Wednesday, watch this space!

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
Sorry to keep asking questions but although I finished this in 2015 it is my first rc boat, in fact my first any boat, the first time I went to water so to speak, was three weeks ago, I am learning new things by reading the posts on this forum I have just read the post by RMWall107 about his boat and someone mentioned the angle of the prop-shaft with regards to an ic and electric motor angle, as my father who started the build in the 60's and was into his r/c aircraft I suspect he was going to fit an ic motor and fitted the prop accordingly. Can someone tell me the correct angle for an electric motor with any tolerances and also what the problems will be if the angle is too far out. Thanks

CG-52301 "TRIUMPH" by circle43nautical Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
This is my latest progress on the Barracuda RC Boats 52' MLB, US COAST GUARD "TRIUMPH"CG- 52301. I was up until 0500 this AM attempting to finish sheathing the hull. The deck housings are just about ready for paint. I really don't enjoy covering natural wood, but it's a must to achieve proper detail, I reckon. I'm awaiting 1/8" scribed sheathing for the deck, the fantail semicircle will be 1/16" sheathing, and the outboard perimeter of the deck will be 3/16" light mahogany strips. She's powered by a 775 Johnson-type 6-12v motor turning a 4mm shaft and a 75mm 5-blade Raboesch wheel. The 5-blade isn't OEM, but I reckoned she needed some extra muscle to get to the party in distress.

Twin Motor Perkassa by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
I attach some pics of my 34" Perkassa. It uses two large water cooled brushed motors (650?). Two Mtronic 25amp ESCs with one red wire disconnected. You can see the ESCs on off switches over the former in the next to last pic. Presently has a Planet Tx/rx and I use 9.6v or 8.4v NiMhs of 3 to 5 amps. Not fused (naughty). The battery sits between the prop shafts towards the stern in a tray. I control the motors on the left and right sticks with the rudder on the right horiz stick. The left stick has a ratchet so I set the speed with that and use the right sticks to keep straight and steer. As an ex flyer this is an easy set up for me. Run time is about 10/15 mins but that's long enough for me and the other models on the lake!

Motor problem by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
yeah I agree Richard, I sort of went away from topic there. I've had a look in the man shed, I have some 4ba taps, so if you need some props, get some mm ones (poss 3mm as 4 mm is bigger?) and if you need them I can drill and tap for you. Also, if you use a cheap plastic prop, you can use a 4ba nut on the shaft with some thread lock, and lock the 4mm prop up against it. Pity you are not closer, I would have done it for you whilst here. Good luck! Paul

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
Fair enough pmdevlin I accept what you are saying, however it started as a motor not being big enough for the size of the propeller and then went on further as the shaft was 4BA not 4mm and I could not locate a smaller prop, a plain brass tube and stainless shaft has been fitted,way back in the 60's when it was first started and as I knew nothing about boats in 2015 when I finished the basic structure, I did not know that it would have been the smart thing to fit a shaft with bearings. So this is the way I am going to go, I have ordered the 850 brush motor and the adapter to fit the motor shaft to my red coupling,this I have been assured will be more than big enough to drive the prop without getting hot or needing a water jacket, if this is the case when I fit it and sail it, then result, if not I will then have to go down the path that you suggest, I have nothing to lose trying the larger motor and everything to gain if it works. By the way the batteries are all new

Motor problem by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
here is the problem Richard, when you ask for advise on an open forum, you get a few individual takes!😁 IMO, its not so much the motor at this stage, its the ba thread thing. You can stick a Ferrari v12 in there, but you still need to consider how to attach the thing that is actually going to drive you along, a prop, be it 2, 3 or more blades Whilst buying the 850 motor, take the boat into the shop and get the bearings for your outer tube, and a new mm stainless shaft, and any couplings that are needed. If the outershaft is a size that will not accommodate any new bearings, then it will have to come out, regardless of the motor (don't forget a mount) that you buy. The suggested nylon 2 blade prop sizes that Havelock has posted in the motor spec are what I suggested a few days ago. Don't forget, that spec etc is generic, its not going to be "fit all" its down to you to test and establish what works best for your boat, we don't know its weight, and the condition of your batteries etc.

Motor problem by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
before you start ripping out your prop shaft an 850 should be able to use your existing prop. Specifications of 800 and 850 Overall length 110mm (4.3/8’’) - Width (inc. fixing plate) 50mm (2’’) - Weight 585g (20.6OZ) - Voltage 12v DC (reversible by reversing polarity) - RPM for 800 (no load) 5100 & for 850 (no load) 9778 - Current consumption for 800 (no load) 1 amp- maximum efficiency 5.3amps-suggested maximum continuous 7 amps-current consumption stalled 28amps and for the 850 Current consumption 1.9amp (no load) - maximum efficiency 10.8 amps - suggested maximum continuous 13 amps - current consumption stalled 40 amps - Suggested prop size for both motors: 45,50,55 & 62mm in 2 blade nylon or equivalent 3 blade brass

Motor problem by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi Richard, molegrips to get the lot out, outershaft and all, its very painful, squeeze tight and twist, you will be supruised how it comes out with some tapping. You could get the bearings out of the top and bottom of your existing shaft, if they look like black plastic, put the shaft in, catch the edge from inside and knock out, they are opush fit, then replace with new 4mm/5mm aceteal, (no doubt spelt wrong)a quid or so each, and are water lubricated. SHG Marine do all of this, they are good at props. If they look metal, they will be either brass, or bronze, and you will prob have to heat the end of the shaft. Try the tapping method, you might get lucky. so now, original outershaft still in place, no bearings either end, and you need a new mm shaft, get stainless. The trick is now, getting bearings to fit if its a real old shaft. Is a good time now to fit an oiler tube whilst everything is out, and clean using thinners etc any gungle inside the shaft. After all this, its not much more effort to get the old one out, and epoxy a new one in, you can buy it complete with inner and outer shafts, bearings, and the right thread, and a couple of test props whilst the wallet is out! Never said it was going to be easy😜

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
I like Blunt, the guy a Howes model shop, who was into boats himself retired and only worked there a couple of mornings a week, also said to remove the complete shaft and replace it with a metric one much the same as yourself, it is just the thought of what damage I may do to the boat as I know I fixed it in really well, he also said to get a 4mm prop-shaft and to see if the shaft would fit into the existing tube, so I am going to take both your advice and at this time go for a 4mm but try the shaft first, however I do not think pulling it out with mole grips will work on this occasion. Watch this space😡 Thanks

Motor problem by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi Richard I'm going to be blunt here, no intention to offend, but, You get a donation of some random ancient 4BA prop, you are no further on, as you are stuck with one prop. You have yet to decide which size prop will suit, and, as time goes by, and you consider updating your drive train, that 4BA is going to continually hold you back. Get it out, a new propshaft, 4mm, or even 5mm (all my boats run 5mm) might even fit your original outershaft and away you go. Slightly off topic, but, the cost of very average brushed motors and yesterday technology is now more expensive than Brushless, which is way more efficient, I wonder how much longer the model shops can survive touting this over priced dated equipment, RC Boats is the only RC discipline holding on to this out of date technology. Back on topic!🤐 You could also see if you have any room to cut the threaded end off, and visit the local engineering shop, get them to thread the end 4mm or whatever suits. I remember beiung in exactly the same position on my first serious boat, my 36" aerokits Fireboat, build in the sixties by my uncle. I was with my mate, and mentor, having the exact same conversation, I was holding on, saying I'm not changing the shaft, he dropped something on the floor, I bent down, when I stood up, he had a pair of molegrips dragging the propshaft out, I could have cried, but never looked back. I then did extensive testing with a load of cheap props, and when I got it sorted, treated myself to a real nice brass prop, size based on the testing results👍