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>> Home > Tags > prop shaft

prop shaft
propshaft alignment
shaft diameter
brass prop
prop tube
racing prop
prop shaft
Krick Police Launch by MouldBuilder Lieutenant   Posted: 3 hours ago
I have just started to build the Police Launch that I have had for a while. Work commitments have left me with little time lately but hopefully I can get a good run on this one for a while. I hope to finish it by late July which just leaves me enough time to send it to Hungary so that I can test it. The kit is said to be good for a beginner. This would be good as many years ago I built a Patrol Torpedo Boat which took me five years. I am currently restoring this one as well but I think that will take most of this year to complete.😁 I have started by buying the speed controller. The motor is a 400 brushed. Probably not going to be too difficult to keep up with this one. The kit itself is not too bad considering the price, but I do feel that the ABS vacuum formed hull could be of a slightly better quality. Also I am finding the ply wood to be rather brittle. Does anybody have an idea for a good filler to use to fill the chips which will take to acrylic paint. I have prepared the hull and added the propeller shaft and rudder holes. Care taken here to avoid splits in the plastic. Cellotape on both sides before drilling helps.🤓 I have assembled the internal parts which hold the motor, battery and rudder and also fitted the prop shaft.😲 I will start on the deck and superstructure next. An additional note about the kit. The instructions are reasonable but they are in black and white which is not helpful considering they are photograph based with text. I found a PDF on the web which is in full colour. Why don`t Krick supply this. Surely not that expensive.🤔

Sea Scout 'Jessica' Sea Trial - at last! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 hours ago
You're Sooo right Ed👍 Especially if yours is the only 'show' on the water, like today. You meet some nice people 👍 Since I retired I can avoid the weekends and holidays when the Biergarten lake is overrun and overcrowded😊 Re: finding the time! You should see the state of my maisonette!! Or maybe not 😲 No wonder no woman lives with me for long 😉 Photos attached of possible next projects - What should I do next??? Answers on a postcard please to ..... 😁 1 The Danish fish cutter? Full restoration, 2 The ELCO PTB? Renovation, repaint and refit as PT-109, 3 Or maybe the cruiser HMS Belfast? Needs new props and RX and ESCs fitted. 4 KMS Graf Spee, needs new shafts, props, RX and ESCs. Help! 😲 it's all go folks! Happy boating all, cheers Doug 😎

Sea Scout 'Jessica' Sea Trial - at last! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 hours ago
Thanks Ron, must say I was very happy with the performance. Was a good afternoon out 😁 Now to finish off the fixtures and fittings! And fit SPRAY RAILS!! Many thanks also once again to Canabus of Hobart, Tasmania for recommending that motor and prop combo to me👍👍 JFF I also bought a 3500kV motor. Reckon if I fit that and run on 3S It'll rip the shaft out 😲 Have to find another boat to fit that in 😁 BTW: the 'Daddy' swan in the last scene chased me out to the middle of the lake and also tried to bite my leg!!!

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Looks like everything is set for the first open water test. Sun is shining, ice has gone and water smooth. Intention is to start the open water test program with a repeat of the pool test, except this time with everything wired correctly; the load cell positioned so the “pull” is more horizontal and ballast available to hold the propellers underwater if necessary. Hope these improvements help reading stability. To modify the “pull” arrangements, wrapped a light cord around the propeller shaft struts and fed the loose end above the transom shelf and out over the stern. The load cell was hooked into this and then tied to a fixed grating on the pond side. Started by measuring the electrical requirements for each of the three motors and the propeller bollard pull, using the 2 S battery. Found the bollard pull was up slightly at almost 3 lbs per propeller. Probably because they were now held at a greater depth in the water. Also blew several 20A fuses, so fitted 30, which seem to work. A series of runs showed adequate performance with plenty of spray, although the bow did not lift much onto the plane. The forefoot did raise almost above the water surface. Then tried a 3S battery. Although this was much heavier, the performance improved dramatically. The bollard pull was up to almost 18 lbs per shaft. The bow still did not lift much to a plane, although the forefoot was almost clear of the water at full speed. The battery was located just back from the bow, so it is suspected that it held the bow down. The impact of the transom flap down angle could also hold the bow down, but have decided to leave as is for the time being and avoid the temptation of making too many adjustment at once. Whilst it is still too early to draw definite conclusions, it seems as if a 3S battery will be required. The model sustained some slight damage due to the test arrangements, so will repair that and also fit the 2 bladed Hi Speed propellers. Will then repeat the program and report. Should be able to draw some definite conclusions then on the best power train. Neither of the batteries used, neither the 2 S nor the 3S are ones I would choose for this model. As a result the capacities and weights are not ideal. That must also be remembered in future deliberations.

NAXOS - Fishing Boat by hecrowell Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 days ago
After a time away due to illness and other family issues, I am back to the build of the NAXOS. By accident, I think that I have obtained a suitable power plant for her - it is the motor out of a cordless drill which I can no longer get a battery pack for. Aparently, it runs on 6V to 60V. Wondering if it will require water coolong or not. If so, how does one arrange a "water scoop" for the cooling tube and where is the discharge sent to? Maybe a port in the transom..... As you can see, it has a pinion gear on the shaft and I don't know if I should leave it on and incorporate a prop speed reduction gear or remove it (with heat) and go "direct drive" coupling to the prop shaft. I have a plan for the ESC with BEC and as I love building electronic devices likely will go with "home brew". I am a boat building novice so constructive input appreciated. Have located a source for wood construction material, so hopefully will have something to show next time.

S 100 Schnellboot RC build by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Ron, did you ever try 3 props for comparison? If yours is the 1:35 Italeri I don't see any problem with space for 3 shafts. I have an approx 1:35 MTB currently with 2 shafts, 'as seen and bought' next season I propose to fit a 3rd motor and shaft: port and starboard for cruising, switch-in centre motor for "All ahead flank"! BTW: I have a couple of kits for the S100 "Schnellboot, otherwise known as E Boat, E for Enemy😉, one Airfix and one Revell, both 1:72. I intend to fit them with 3 motors as well - 'Plastic Magic' 😁 Motors already sourced from X-Drive, shafts will be home brew from silver steel and brass tube with sintered phosphor bronze bearings. "Nothing is impossible", I drive a Toyota 😉😉 Cheers Doug 😎

S 100 Schnellboot RC build by kmbcsecretary Admiral   Posted: 5 days ago
Coming along nicely , I have done the conversation of this kit myself some years ago when it first came out . I had to make the propshafts myself as the conversion kit wasn't available then but I found that it handled better using only one prop rather than the intended 3 props plus the lack of space inside the hull for the rest of the electrics. Ron

Sea Queen prop shaft by AndyG009 Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
Thanks for the advice M Turpin (don't know any more than that), I am with you on that, I worked out that I actually needed about 500 mm length. So will thread the one end (actually less thread than the one supplied) then fit - measure - measure then cut. Sidley70 - I think I would have been tempted to remove the old shaft (the outer tube) and fit a new one. I suppose it depends on how well the original is fitted. Having removed one many years ago from a boat. My method was to have a reasonable size piece of steel drill and tap to the size of the old prop shaft, fit to shaft - this holds the piece at the end of the shaft - the basically give it a bash with a hammer - now in my case it came loose and then by swapping round and bashing from the inside, I got the shaft free enough to clamp a mole wrench on and 'wiggle' it out. Not very scientific, but it worked for me - no guarantees though. Good Luck

Sea Queen prop shaft by sidley70 Petty Officer   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi Andy I have been working on a barn find old Sea Queen kit in very poor condition. The restoration required fitting a 5mm prop shaft as the old shaft supplied was a little short, I ordered a new 5mm shaft 19inches long from Model Boat Bits uk and when I tried to fit it it would not fit. Not realising the old shaft was 3/16inch. I had to ream the bushes to take the new shaft of 5mm. this proved a little difficult as the shaft was already fitted. I finally did it and everything works as expected. Fitting the motor which is a 700 ?. The shaft was 1/4 inch diameter. Boring out the brass insert did not leave much meat and I am hoping it does does not let go under power. So far so good. I hope there is some info there that you can use. Regards Sid

It's a sad day!. by stormin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
Ian, I thought all ED where compression ignition (diesel) so not sure what yours could be. I still have a seagull (1cc) hunter (2.5cc) and a sea otter (3.5cc) I believe that the sea otter was the only engine ED made specifically for use in boats (water cooled) because the flywheel was at the opposite end of the crank eliminating the need to thread your starter cord under your prop shaft and u.j. Norman.

Sea Queen prop shaft by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
I suggest you thread the end of the 600mm bar and don't cut it to length first, so hopefully not, but if it does go wrong you can just cut the end off and start again. I always do the most complicated job on a piece of work so if it does go wrong you haven't wasted any time on other processes.

Sea Queen prop shaft by AndyG009 Lieutenant   Posted: 12 days ago
Obtained a length of Stainless Steel 600 mm long 5 mm diameter (it is slightly greater diameter than the Raboesch bearings), used 400 wet and dry - couple (or three) rubs - check - repeat, actually it took some time but now fits, only one end, as the prop end fits the bearing. Still have to put a thread on it, will take mturpin's advice. I only actually needed a shaft about 60 mm longer than the Raboesch. One thing I forgot to mention is the fact that when I decided to up size to a 5 mm shaft, and the Raboesch maintenance free, is that the outer tube did fit the pre-made hole in the keel but there was no movement for adjustment. Making that hole larger was one of the most difficult bits up to now. Had to make - what I would call a prop shaft hole enlarger - bit of a bodge but it worked.

It's a sad day!. by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
I used to use Blackheath pond South London but last time I went there with a boat I had just come off the pond after clipping the pond side and bending my prop shaft,The local park ranger pulled up in a van after someone making a complaint. The boat isn't noisy as the cooling also runs out of the exhaust. He told me I was very lucky as if he had actually seen it running on the pond it was an £80.00 fine. He saw me lifting it off the water but engine wasn't running. I don't understand it as some of the boats I have seen running with brushless scream more than my 26cc PT109. I do have a Proboat Miss Geico she isn't too bad on noise, I also have a Graupner Rhode Island with a brushless outboard but she is still untried on water up to now.

Various by PMBDTCentral Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
Shots from the Chichester Canal RC Boat Run 2018. A bit of an endurance run and all except my galleon made it. Mine decided to not be attached to the prop shaft after a bit. Several children took part and several of the local clubs were there to enjoy the sunshine and company

Sea Queen prop shaft by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Go for it, but be very careful when sizing the shaft and bearing fit, use very fine 1000 wet and dry until a slight interference/push fit is achieved. and for the M5 thread make sure you open the die to its max on first cut using lots of quality cutting oil and then finally finish to size gradually closing the die to it neutral size, It also helps if the die is new as Silver Steel is quite hard in its natural state. (sorry if this was teaching Granny to suck eggs)