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>> Home > Tags > prop shaft

prop shaft
propshaft
propshaft alignment
shaft diameter
propshop
brass prop
prop
prop tube
propeller
racing prop
prop shaft
Naval History - PQ17 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi John, I meant the the photos that Dave M posted of his Revell Corvette, HMS Bluebell! Thought 35Megs was for aircraft only!? I nearly got lynched here in Munich for once using my 35Meg Sanwa for my destroyer. Sticklers for the rules and regs here 🤔 The COMMS buoy is still on the ideas list, plenty else to finish off before frills that! Yesterday spent the whole day cleaning up and lubricating my lathe cos it hadn't been used for 10 years or more, and of course now I need it 🤔 Want to make some alignment tools for new motors and prop shafts! Cheers Doug 😎

hanley by basilsdad Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 9 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 28"/700g hanley Capable of 4mph Single Propellor (3 Blade 40mm) Direct Drive to a tape drive (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 2Amp/h Batteries - Comments: scratch built stand off model of uss handley i believe cant find the plans i used to confirm the correct name, the hull is 3mm balsa for the sides covered with 1mm white card, the bottom is 5 mm balsa. scratch built propeller 3mm shaft and tube to match , scratch built propeller and rudder and fittings, the boat was painted with 4coats of enamelspray primer and 4 coats of light grey enamel with a black bottom.

Re Sea Rover by Wingcoax by philpjuk Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
Batteries!, always a problem in the 50s on "paper round" money, used to cadge,"borrow" or steal batteries for our boats.Used to be able to buy a cheap kit and even a cheap Japanese motor (coupled to the prop shaft with bicycle valve tubing) but it would be unused for weeks until I could afford a battery, and then they did not last long.Used to borrow batts from my dads bike lamps,my grannies gas stove lighter and the door bell!.Also use to be able to remove cells from the "winner 120" batteries from my dads sky queen radio as the HV cells used to discharge first.This was the downfall of glowplug motors,we could start them at home but on getting to the pool the tall 1.5v battery would be flat.My dad showed me how to locate good cells on duff car batteries by putting a load on them and measuring the voltage across each cell,we then emptied the acid out into mums washing up bowl and sawed the good cells out,refilling them with acid filtered through a handkerchief!,this worked a treat for starting glow motors but my hankie and the pocket I kept it in suffered!I eventually sorted the power problem by using a clockwork motor removed from the family gramamphone to fit an autochanger.

Added extras by Skydive130 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 13 days ago
Had a couple of hours after work with an empty house, seemed rude not to get the last of the formers in and test fit prop shafts, happy so far. Day off tomorrow, so walk the dog and get the stringers started!

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Neil, the suggestions about prop support are all valid, just different takes on things. I would (if you intend to repaint the hull) sand off to key, or prime the old paint prior to installing the shaft, as it will be easier to repaint and prep. Question, sorry if I missed this, is that a new shaft with new bearings? If not get new from shg marine (they are at the Blackpool, show, and the midlands engineering show if you can get to either, I'm not sure where you are?) they are dirt cheap, called aceteal or something similar, they water lubricate, and cost about £2 each. Roll the inner shaft on a piece of glass or a mirror, this will tell you if its bent, any sign of this, get a new one, or you might have alignment and vibration issues. (glass is totally flat! there's a free tip to test you prop shafts ha ha !!👍) same can be bought from shg, and get stainless. Back to the support, the thing Dave mentions is a piece of wood that fits between the hull, and the shaft. The shaft is then epoxied to this, giving support, but it wont be true to original. You have the original support, so remodel this to fit your new angle. If you use any bolts etc to secure, use stainless so they don't rust. Once painted, it will be hidden, and its underneath anyway so cant be seen. It will need to be tight to the outershaft, once positioned, you could solder, as they are both brass, and either feed into the hull bend over and epoxy, or screw as per original. Here is my big fireboat, its twin, but the concept is the same, the support came into the hull, and on this example, I put a brass pin through, and epoxied it all

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi Neil, the pics look good 👍 You have 11/16" from keel to shaft centre so your max prop diameter is 32mm. You might squeeze a 35 in if you flat off the keel to hull behind the shaft. The fillet is a triangular piece of ply (or hardwood if you have some scraps) fitted between the top of the tube and the hull bottom (keel plate in your case) and reaching from the end of the tube just in front of the prop to the hull exit point and completely filling (hence the name 😉) the whole gap. Min 6mm thickness would be good. Cheers Doug 😎

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
ha, got you! check this out Doug! Huntsman, single screw, with prop support, A simple brass strip, epoxied into the hull. Sailing around, Wham! something just under the water, fuzzy picture but the shaft bent (and its a 5mm stainless one) rudder as you see, without internal and external support, that hull would have cracked, boat could have sunk. I get what you say, but its at the build stage that you (builder) can decide what to do prior to painting etc. The twin screw pic was just for reference, I didn't have a pic of the same thing for single screw, but its each to their own, and we all have a different view on things, which is great👍

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Yes Paul, with the boat in your picture you are right. BUT it has two props so the tubes and shafts go through the thin hull and have no other protection or support. Like in my twin and multi screw destroyer and cruiser. Also they are supporting bearings for the shaft cos the tubes stop at the hull exits. Here, as Dave rightly pointed out, and I also showed in the pics of my Sea Scout; if the shaft tube is properly fitted in the keel it has all the support it needs and I've never seen internal damage from a 'knock' to a prop shaft!? The fillet from tube to keel does the rest and absorbs any 'knocks'. If you want belt and braces wrap a thin brass strip around the tube just before the prop and epoxy it to the sides of the fillet plate. Which by the way is above and not below the tube! and Neil; keep Paul well away from your models!! 😉 Cheers Doug 😎

Aerokits Solent Class Lifeboat by Skydive130 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 14 days ago
I am a modeller of 45 years experience, mostly with RC aircraft but have recently got into boats. Have completed the aeronaut Diva and spitfire to a high standard but needed a challenge So, having spent a long time trying to source an un-started Aerokits Solent, I bit the bullet and bought a set of plans and templates from eBay. Overall the plans are good, the templates need some adjusting as we go for acuaracy. Have spent the last couple of weeks perusing the plans and sourcing the materials needed. A visit to the Balsa Cabin in Maldon, Essex provided all the ply and the internet has provided the main components I.e motors, props, shafts, ESC, battery, soundboard/speaker, servo mostly sourced from Cornwall model boats and Howes Models septembers issue of "model boats" had a great article on a refurb which has been very useful for hints n tips on required electrics and the little extras needed to complete. I do have a workshop where the model will spend most of its time, however my wife's conservatory has been invaluable for using my eBay sourced scroll saw to cut out the formers! The sheet of 6mm ply from balsa cabin was long enough to make keel formers 1 & 2 one piece! I shall post a more detailed update when I get my computer back from repair Monday!

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by neilmc Commander   Posted: 15 days ago
Hi To you all thank you for the continued advice it is making life so much easier and I do like it when the thinking is done by experts. Paul The disc idea is an absolute bonus and will be using it for sure as it takes away the need for continued measurements. Dave The water scoop is going as like you and Doug say I don't need it no working monitors for me, just a working boat would be good. I'll be using measurements given to achieve shaft positioning as at the moment I have a 2 blade prop which I think is 30mm diameter so disc to suit will be used. Doug I like KISS it's worked for me loads of times in the past but I can't help buying shining things 😁😁😁 The shim idea on the prop tube is a good one but may still go for a support even though not needed it shines 🤣🤣🤣🤣. But it may still go back to the filler piece as all depends on how difficult it is to fit the A frame support. I purchased one at 8mm for the tube and not 4mm for the shaft. I'm looking forward to the weekend to get started and even set an alarm for an early start which is unusual for me. Im off to HMS Alliance as I do volunteer guiding there otherwise Id be starting now. Will keep you all posted hopefully with good news and no more questions - well on this bit anyway 🤣🤣

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Neil Your model is the 34" Crash tender with one prop. Twin prop versions as per the real craft do need the support. On a single screw you can add a fillet of wood to fill the space and provide the support. Paul may well have used a 50mm prop on his model but my measurements were fo a 30mm 3 blade brass prop and that works perfectly. Using a disc cut to the size of the prop is a useful tip when fitting the prop tube For very fast models you will need a water scoop but for a novice this is an additional complication and I doubt if you will need one. Hope you are progressing with fitting the shaft Cheers Dave

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Ill chip in! Pictures tell a story. Ok, a twin shaft, but the principle is the same. Imagine the angle of shaft you have, then propeller is pushing up, get it a shallow angle, and its now pushing forward. On the 34" fireboat, largest prop you will end up with is 50mm, so cut a dics 50mm, attach to your shaft, with a flat on it so it sits on the hull, viola, here is your prop angle👍 Prop support, use a strip of brass, heat it, and bend around same diameter rod (as your outer shaft, not on the shaft as the heat could damage the bearings), clamp together and either solder or use a small nut and bolt, fit through a slot in the hull, and then bend the side over, like wings, inside the hull, and epoxy. Paul Fit a water pick up, its easier at the build time, than regretting it later, you don't have to use it if its not necessary

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi neil Not what you require. This is a bearing and frame for a shaft that extends beyond the end of the propshaft. The original design for an IC motor had the shaft much further from the hull, hence this support was required. As I advised on your other post you do not need this support. Just fill the gap between the prop tube and the hull with a triangular sliver of wood to provide support. The shaft should be no more than 3/4" below the hull at the prop end. Dave

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Hi Neil That link for the seal is for a flexishaft drive. Totally different to a propshaft and proptube. Used by the fast racing fraternity. I am not sure it would work in your setup. Anyone used one with a solid propshaft? Dave

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Hi Neil Sorry was in a rush this morning so misnamed the water scoop hole as the skeg. As regards the skeg you don't need it. Just fit the propshaft and then fill below with a fillet of wood as used in the original Aerokit models and mine. An oiler is useful but your shaft doesn't have one and for a novice they can be difficult to fit. Like Doug I solder mine. I see my friend Steve at Model Boat Bits stocks easy fit oilers and they would be fine if they are the right size for your propshaft. If you do get one make sure you remove the propshaft before drilling the tube and get all the swarf out afterwards. Dave