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>> Home > Tags > prop shaft

prop shaft
propshaft
propshaft alignment
shaft diameter
propshop
brass prop
prop
prop tube
propeller
racing prop
prop shaft
USCGC Yocona WMEC 168 by haleskevin Petty Officer   Posted: 17 minutes ago
Working on making the static ship radio control. Props, shafts and struts installed. I have a huge 6 volt battery that should keep this thing cruising for a hour. Tried to put the props scale, but just did not work, it will be under water anyhow. Rudders go in next.

Ready for paint! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Graham, Pardon my ignorance but what's a prop shaft glass?? and I believe you might mean 'bulwarks' 😉 cheers Doug 😎

The electrics, drive & radio by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
The switch panel and wiring loom was made, tested and dry fitted a while ago and so it only needs securing to the bulkhead with four fixing screws, the two NiMh batteries were strapped down to the bearers with cable ties as close to the chines as possible and the XT60 connectors mated. I have read that placing the heavy batteries as far away from the keel as possible improves the handling, all other heavy items are centered along the keel for symmetry and should help the boat to sit evenly in the water. I’m not sure if I will need to do any ballasting, hopefully the maiden voyages should give me an indication. The prop shaft was greased and fitted, and with the prop, thrust washers and lock nuts in place, the clearance was adjusted and locked with some Loctite so the motor could then be installed. The initial motor alignment was made with a solid coupler which was then replaced with the universal joint, I took the precaution to grind a flat on the motor shaft so that the locking grub screw has better grip on the shaft. The grease tube was then fitted to the shaft clamp and secured to the side of the switch panel. The ESC was fixed to the back of the bulkhead with another couple of cable ties and the input cables, again XT60 types, and the three pole XT60 motor connectors mated. I have also fitted a Turnigy in-line volt, amp and watt meter in the circuit before the ESC so that I can log readings in case of spurious fuse blowing issues or unexpected battery life problems. The water cooling tubes were then run from the water pickup, through the ESC and then back to the transom ‘exhaust’ outlet, all water connections are fitted with spring clips to ensure water tight connections. I have used quite a large bore silicone tubing to ensure maximum water flow and made sure that all bends are kink and compression free. The R/C receiver is fixed to the rear cabin wall with some Velcro pads for easy removal, the two aerials were fitted in some plastic tubing at 90 degrees to each other as recommended for 2.4 gig systems and as high above the waterline as possible. The receiver is connected to a separate 4.8 volt NiMh battery via a changeover switch that also has a charging connection and LED power indicator, and I have also fitted a battery voltage indicator, just because they are cheap and convenient although the R/C system that I have has telemetry that reports RX voltage as standard. The battery charger I have chosen can handle the 16 cell series configuration of the drive batteries and so they can be charged in-situ when the main power switch is toggled over to the charge position. The RX and lighting batteries are charged separately. All of the servo and lighting switch cables are routed through the hull to the receiver through pre drilled holes in the bulkheads at high level for neatness and to retain the integrity of each compartment just in case 😲!!. The servo and cables and the water cooling tubes are strapped to a supporting bar between the bulkheads for neatness and security. With the TX switched on first, the RX is then powered up and the main power switch toggled to the ‘operate’ position, the ESC then gives a reassuring series of bleeps that confirm that all is well. The ESC was set up using a Turnigy programming card specifically for that model of controller and if required I can tweak the settings once the boat has had a few sailings. The last things to do now are to fit some strong magnets to hold the hatches and roofs down securely and then finally raise the RAF ensigns 😁

Ready for paint! by GrahamP74 Commander   Posted: 21 days ago
Managed to get the prop shaft glasses in today after adding a brass coupling joint my dad made for me on the metal lathe. This has allowed me to screw down the gantry and net hauler. I will be putting her in the water tomorrow to get some idea of water line and ballast. Then I will be able to paint the hull. The deck will and bulk works will also be painted. Also started work on the v doors for the trawl and some other little bits today. More updates soon!

RAF fIRE TENDER MAST DETAILS ?? by sonar Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
I left the propshaft and that was that never put a lot of detail to it as I wanted to sail it But plenty of time to do it all again in the winter

New to hobby by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
Hi, first thing I'd do is probably change the props! Looks like the starboard prop has lost a blade, 😭 hope the shaft wasn't bent in the process 🤔 More when we know more about the boat (dimensions etc) motors, available batteries, other working accessories, Your intentions with the boat! Cheers Doug 😎

SG&K 1920 Gentlemans Runabout Mk2 by canabus Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Colin I use a solid alloy 5mm to 4mm coupling with one grub screw for the motor and one for the prop shaft. The silicon IC fuel tubing is my safety device stopping the prop shaft dropping in to the wet stuff. Also I notch the prop shaft for better grub screw grip. I could have had the coupling sitting over frame 3 as the dash centre sloops back, this would give more motor room or a longer motor. I think the 3639-1100kv at 800 watts on 3S will give the boat a good turn of speed.

SG&K 1920 Gentlemans Runabout Mk2 by canabus Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi All Installing the drive line and motor mount with a simple alloy bracket. The motor mount alignment tool is my design and grub screws onto the prop shaft with mounting holes for 28 and 35mm motors. Can add more mounting holes if required.

Jet Sprint Boat by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Mighty meaty! 👍 Good luck with the 'Messcave' 😉 I have the same problem 🤔 Pics show (amongst accumulated junk from various repair jobs!) - electrics bench and boxes of 'stuff' acquired over the last few years of my working life still waiting to be sorted out 😉 - various ships waiting to be refurbished or fitted out; HMS Hotspur 1:72 H class destroyer 1936, HMS Belfast 1:128 6" light cruiser U25 (or 26?) 1:72 Type IIA U-boat 1936 Billings Gina Danish fish cutter Graupner Southampton Various Plastic Magic projects (stash!) - the bigger ones; HMS Hood, Ark Royal, Illustrious, Type 45, USS Enterprise (The Big E), Bismarck all 1:350; USS Fletcher destroyer 1:144, are down in the cellar, the bench down there is just as bad 😡! and finally - my poor old Sea Scout being sanded on the kitchen worktop for lack of space on the bench! 😭 "Stuff accumulates to fill the space available for it" 😉 cheers Doug 😎 Oh! Nearly forgot 😲! and there's a 1:128 Graf Spee pocket battleship on a shelf in the living room, waiting for propshaft repairs.

Fairy Huntsman by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
As this is a refurbishment chances are it was fitted with an IC engine in which case you need to remove all the gunge and heavy mounting blocks from inside the hull as well as checking the propshaft and bearings. If you can get the weight reduced then I would expect a speed 600 motor with a 30 to 40 mm prop should suffice. A 20/25 watt ESC powered by a NiMh would also be suitable and keep the weight down. If you use racing props the current will be greater than if you use brass 3 blade props, and the bigger the prop the greater the current. As a general rule the prop should have a diameter of no greater than that of the motor. The voltage of the NiMh must not exceed the max voltage the ESC can handle. A higher voltage will reduce the current draw so a 9.6v may be better than a 7.2v and give a longer run time. If you already have batteries for other models I would use those but SLA's are heavy and may hinder planing. If you already use LiPos then make sure your ESC can stand the voltage and has a built in cut off to protect the battery.

Motor suppression by colinhubbard Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi guys, after reading all your advice including muddy's pm. I've fitted the suppressors and earthed the motor can to shaft tube, then run the motor for 6 hours starting on 1.5 volts And working up by 1.5 volts every 20 minutes, plus running in reverse at each voltage step. Finally up to 12volts. No arcing and no interference. But while doing this I found another problem, the prop shaft was bent, it took about half an hour to true it up, now super quiet. I used Mitchell Marine Grease in the shaft tube. (Available at all good fishing tackle shops). Tomorrow I will try to do a load test in water if my grandsons paddling pool will take it as I want to know the run time on my SLA and gell batteries. Well that's it for tonight I'm pooped. Good night. Colin.

Shelduck by muddy Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Continuing on - Grease up the prop shaft. Finalise the rigging. Another Radio check, with auxiliary motor, then disaster, Lost the hatch top, searched for 1 and 1/2 hours, no where to be found, Out came the saw and we has another cutting session and added some veneer, all was well.

Shelduck by muddy Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Hello.. Finish the hull belting and flare in the prop shaft. Paint applied. Work on the mast and booms from Pine dowel from DIY shops. Fabricating the rudder, the hinges and bearings were an old Prop shaft and bushes. Decided to scrap the internal servo operating with control line wire to the rudder , mounted the servo as direct as possible, comments received about the rudder is that the original or scale rudder is far to small, so this one was made about 5 times larger, it can always be cut down, but didnt fancy all that work again making a replacement rudder. Rigging the sails is not my Forte', first time so a lot of playing about. Regards Muddy....

Motor suppression by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
PS: the effect is further improved by earthing the motor can to the propshaft if possible. 😎

Shelduck by muddy Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
..Started on the planking, with 3mm x 5mm Obechie strip, leaving a gap in the planks so as one can see whats going on with the alignment of the prop shaft/coupling. Motor mount formed in 2mm Ally and fitted. Planking was completed, not forgetting the bulkhead that overlooks the well deck, this was veneered, as was the Transom. Deck was laid in 1.5mm ply, but when it was all finished, it did not appeal to me at all, don't know why, so this was later planked to give a better sort'of look, although i believe the original full size is a painted deck. My version is now a Stand Off Scale, the dimensions are very close to scale but the finish has a lot of modelers license. Regards Muddy....