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>> Home > Tags > prop shaft

prop shaft
propshaft alignment
shaft diameter
brass prop
prop tube
racing prop
prop shaft
Trimaran USV by analyst Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 16 hours ago
@figtree7nts - yeah as much as possible i will minimize the weight. i think only the weight of a 3hp motor will be the primary consideration and the rest(electronics) will be minimal. speaking of electronics, can you share a simple layout for the needed electronics on this one? I'm a total noob and until now I'm still at lost on what specific items to buy aside from the motor. prop and shaft will be fabricated locally. I already have Rx from the Taranis Tx. All i want for now is for her to run wirelessly for about 100 meters for trials before i consider putting telemetry and cameras. I'm confused of; what size of servos should i use? How many servos? What size and type of battery? Do i need an external antenna? if yes, what type? Hope to have some recommendations from the members. a layout would be much appreciated. thanks in advance

Bargain of the year by justintime2001 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 day ago
46" RAF Crash/Fire Tender Kit Brand New & Boxed + Almost everything needed to complete the build. Cost £565 - A True Bargain at £300 for the lot – Don’t miss this great opportunity Sale Includes: All items are brand new, unopened Vosper 46" RAF Crash Tender Kit x 1 Boat ESC Programming Card x 1 90A Boat ESC 4A SBEC x 1 11.1V 5000mAh 35C continuous discharge lipo battery x 2 Tornado Thumper V2 4260/06 500KV - Brushless Outrunner RC Motor x 1 Canopy Glue Formula 560 x 1 Prop Shaft - 13" Maxidrive ( 8mm Tube/5mm Inner ) x 1 Propshaft Grease x1 Universal Joint x 1 Propshaft Oiler Clamp Kit x 1 XL Brass Rudder x 1 Waterproof Toggle Switch x 1 ZAP Z Poxy x 1 Dual Power iMAX B6 AC Lipo NiMh RC Battery Balance Charger/Discharger x 1 Woven Glass Twill 100g 1m Wide x 3 EL2 Epoxy Laminating Epoxy 770g + AT30 Epoxy Hardener Slow 230g x 1 30 Amp Inline Mini Blade Fuse Holder & Fuse (Splashproof) x 1 Flexible Silicone Wire Cable 14AWG Red & Black x 1 5 Pairs XT-60 Male Female Lipo Battery Connectors Plugs x 1 Collected from Burton on Trent or Could meet part way It is also possible to ship by UPS Courier fully insured for £30. Bargain at £300 for the lot. Cost £565 so a saving of £265.

Mount Fleet River Queen by Robo177 Petty Officer   Posted: 4 days ago
For sale a Mount Fleet River Queen kit. The kit was bought over two yrs ago. I started it but has been left for a long time. The kit is complete as per website spec except for prop shaft. All bits are still boxed or in original packaging. The kit is £225+P&P on Mount Fleet site. I'm looking for £175. Ideally collection only but will post at buyers cost. I live in Burnham on Sea, Somerset. Please don't hesitate to PM on site if you would like more info. Kevin

An unfinished model of HMS Marvel by Colsie334 Petty Officer   Posted: 5 days ago
I have the model HMS Marvel, its nearly finished but the remainder of parts are too small for me to handle, it has the props and shafts and rudder and motors fitted, so I have decided to sell it, and am looking for £150, please phone on 01708766698 (Romford Essex , the kit cost £250 if anyone is interested,

Norstar Wave Princess by AllenA Seaman   Posted: 12 days ago
Built this Wave Princess 30 years ago meaning to use it with my children. Languished in attic since and now retired going to resurrect her for Grandchildren and would welcome any advice on motor size, prop shaft length, Propeller size etc etc. Picked up an as new MacGregor Digimac 111 transmitter receiver and servos at Boot Sale for £5, seems fitting I should use it for the old girl.

Sad News by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Hi Mark, The rudder tubes are well above the water line! But I'll check them out. And the prop shafts were greest properly But i will recheck! I think I'm going to have to look at all the seams! Thanks for the advice, 👍 Hi Dave, The glue i used was Zap-a-Gap, also so Z-Poxy for the wood structure! I'm going to go over the hull and see if I can trace the leak! I suspect a seam that's on the bottom of the hull. That's where I felt the leak when I picked up the hull. But who know exactly where the water is coming from. I'll keep you posted, Thanks for your input really appreciate it 👍 Ed PS. I'm looking into the UHU Plus Acrylit!

Sad News by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi Ed, its difficult when it happens but hopefully no lasting damage. Have a look at the prop shafts or the rudder posts, they are the most likely candidates. I would not wait to dry the hull, keep the electrics out but balast down to the waterline, use a torch???? the light will shine on the water coming in!!!! look around at the shafts rudders etc, you will be able to see any seepage. Hope this helps to find the cause Mark

Skye by Hugh Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 15 days ago
Scratch built. Copy of Scottish fishing trawler with belt drive to propeller shaft from small electric motor

Big Blue by sonar Lieutenant   Posted: 24 days ago
quite a few years ago I was asked if I could make a model boat hull for a friends son. As then a laminator it was an easy job after making the plug to the approx specs asked for. I made the plug and mould then cast a test moulding asked if i could keep the test mould and was told by all means have one. The mould was handed over when completed and payment ect was made. The test moulding i just stuck in the loft Not knowing I would ever start modeling boats so much later in life. So Now I am into the model boats hobby. Here is the hull with twin outlets for the propshaft. And progress so far with the superstructure. Approx 51 inches long 17 inches wide and a depth of 11 inches. As I was paid to do the job nothing in the end belonged to me except the hull I was told I could have. In writing I may add.. Made a flat sheet of laminate and enclosed the whole hull on the top. Cut out an area for the superstructure and as you can see I have started a rough looking superstructure. I have no plans or drawings for this so it will go where ever it ends up I guess.. Apart from the hull I plan on using ALL recycled materials from our local tip. Paint .Plastic and everything else... The big idea apart from saving material from the tip is to make the model at the lowest possible cost. Motors and some other electrical parts will be removed and put into this model from the Ayton cross So all the parts will be transferable from model to model. Well thats the plan anyway. Guess I will have to wait and see how that goes later. Prop shafts props and rudders will be new so NOT replaceable. The timber so far a lump of 4x2 from the tip Free all cut down and sanded. The superstructure I have used a large fliptop plastic white bin from the tip again £1.00 Superglue bought from the local £1. shop. Filler and sanding paper I already have. So I have started it. I will update as I go along..

Sea Breacher by Hugh Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 26 days ago
How do you prevent water entering the prop shaft?

Ayton cross or as close as.. by sonar Lieutenant   Posted: 26 days ago
I bought a used hull of the Ayton Cross and look all over the internet for some plans but found none. I did find a lot of images though. I bought most if not all of the fittings and since have decided that the way to go is to make what you can from what I can get hold of. So all other model boats are and will be scratch made. I have two on the burner at the moment. Anyway some of the Ayton Cross looks right some of it does not. But I can always do it again as I hopefully get a little better. This one again is awaiting Ballast and it will be ready to go. I fitted two Engel 12 volt motors and made the mounts in grp then Laminated them into position.. Everything has been hand painted and slightly aged . The bow thruster was made using some household plumbing pipe a small propshaft Again home made and it works very well. Something to play with as I build hopefully better.

cabin cruiser by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Well there doesn't appear to be much water damage and the keel looks solid. Once glued it should paint up well and remain waterproof. The inside looks a bit gungy so I suggest you clean this thoroughly. The connector on the end of the shaft needs replacing with a modern Huco type coupling. Looks like the rudder is missing, if so your local model shop should have a replacement. Have you checked the propshaft for wear? From this era the shaft thread will likely be imperial. 35Mhz is reserved for aerial RC in the UK so not allowed for model boats or cars. Some 35/40Mhz receivers can work on both frequencies, so as long as you are using 40Mhz crystals and the range is Ok it may be possible. Dave

cabin cruiser by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
Well its an original Aerokits Sea Commander and in the timescale available I would forget about stripping off the paint or sealing the inside as it is probably covered with several coats of oil based paint. Sorry I believed you had a brushless motor but yours looks like a standard 550 brushed so will require a brushed ESC, a 15/20amp mtronic should suffice but any similar ESC will be OK. Unless you are intending to run for long periods or race the boat I would leave the watercooling, it's easy to add later if required. Can you photo the inside of the cabin where the motor sits also the outside area where the ply has delaminated. Is there a prop shaft? You need to make sure the shaft and bearings are OK. Looking forward to more pics Dave

cabin cruiser by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
Hi aeromodeller Welcome to the site. Sounds like a good project. Delaminated wood is not good so I hope your glue and clamps will fix the problem. Is the hull painted? It is usually best to strip back to the wood and cover with cloth and resin all over plus more resin on the inside to keep the water away from the wood. With your timescale this may not be an option, but you could possibly tissue cover the hull with sanding sealer/dope then repaint. Even a coat of dope on the inside will help. You will need a brushless ESC with reverse. If the propshaft is damaged or you can feel play in the bearings it may need replacing or new bearings fitted to the proptube. The rudder will need a servo and you should be good to go. Not sure of the price of crystals but you can buy 2.4Ghz cheap combo set for about £20 and even the short range will not be a problem for a model boat. A pic will allow more specific support for the model Dave

More running gear by andycoburn Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Propshaft and rudder assembly. Aligning the propshaft with a laser level