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>> Home > Tags > prop tube

prop tube
brass tube
brass prop
prop
prop shaft
propeller
propshaft
propshaft alignment
propshop
racing prop
prop tube
Tamiya- King George V. Update. by colinhubbard Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Still painting small parts, but have been limited by illness since November. Also looking for suitable motors. Have decided to use the props supplied, well two of them. Made propshafts from 1mm stainless steel and shaft tubes from 2mm O.D. brass tube. Just need to cut to length, once I have the motors. Will update again soon.

replacing propshaft by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
Hi Richard, mega warning, do not try to bend the prop tube in situ, it is thin walled and large diameter, a recipe for disastrous kinking. What Canbus and RN were referring to are racing drives, and they are replaced almost after every race. Mark

replacing propshaft by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
Right Canabus, AND- they usually run in special tubes with Teflon bearings and lining tubes. If you put one in your old tube without a liner it will probably rattle and bang like the 'big ends' are shot😡 Re tube bending: don't know how you propose to do it but I wouldn't attempt it, it's dangerous! 1) It may cause a kink instead of a smooth curve; thus increasing friction at that point.🤔 2) Most likely instead of bending the tube you will break the tube out of the keel causing considerable damage to the hull.🤔🤔 Up to you but I wouldn't risk it. Good luck, Doug 😎

Prop Shaft Grease by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Roy I agree well made prop shafts such as supplied by Raboesch are excellent. Personally I make my own to scale and length as I have the materials and lathes with which to fabricate them. My experience over many years is that over time the bearings and shafts wear and will require replacing at some time. I have used oiling tubes and stuffing boxes for best results, the latter make small leak repairs simple, but if the prop end bearing has worn it needs replacing. Our last club sailing waters were saline and I had to replace the bearings in all the models I sailed there. I used to wash the model hulls after every sail but it didn't help. I use a thick oil in the tubes.

Prop Shaft Grease by boaty Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Bryan Best way to remove the propshaft is to undo the universal joint at the top then slide the shaft out through the stern tube . Sometimes this may be difficult if the rudder gets in the way. If you remove the prop there is a good chance you can extract the shaft without too much difficulty but be careful not to bend the shaft. Referring to the latter it is advisable to remove the rudder but on some occasions I have bent the rudder slightly though there is an element of risk in this as the rudder has to be realigned. When reassembling the shaft and universal coupling check that after fitting the prop there is adequate clearance between the prop hub and the stern tube and the same with the coupling so the assembly can rotate freely without rubbing against the tube . Regards Boaty😊

Prop Shaft Grease by reilly4 Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
I tried a few different grades of oil and found that if the inside end of the prop tube is close to or below the waterline then some water always seemed to enter the boat, as well as leaving an oil slick in the lake. You also need an oiler tube. Light grade marine grease - whilst offering some friction initially soon eases off on the friction (via a quick run-in), whilst offering a good seal. I have ships, patrol boats and submarines and they all have marine grease. I re-grease the prop tubes/shafts once a year for the frequently used models and others once every few years. I also tried Lithium grease, but it always remains sticky and so does the friction load. In most cases this is great grease except for prop shafts. Choose what ever you are happy with.

Sea Queen Prop Shaft by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Andy, as the boat is in kit form, just get the keel sections, on the drawings they tell you to leave a gap to fit the prop shaft. re-adjust the angle of the gap to about 15 degrees, this will give you room for the motor mount and the length of the prop tube, give yourself enough clearance for the largest prop, 55 - 60 mm, with the motor you are looking at i would go for the 100amp esc not much extra but a lot more security, power wise. Prop shaft, have a look at the Raboesch ball raced shafts from Deans Marine, very good at higher revs. Mark

Keel formers and prop tube placement by marky Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
glad to see that your little helper has all his safety gear on and the force is with him.👍cheers Marky

Keel formers and prop tube placement by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Had a pleasant morning measuring and cutting the start of the keel formers and the prop shaft formers (is that what they call a stuffing box?). Looking more like a boat instead of a box after this early stage! Next to do is Finnish the hull formers bottom and sides followed by the chimes before hull sheeting starts.

Motor problem by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Richard, that lead acid is way too big and heavy. I Remember going on hols as a kid, car was loaded up, all family, roofrack, deck chairs, tent and so on, and Dads old Moggie Traveller would barely climb the Welsh hills! Same here, its just dead weight, ideal for a tug etc, no speed required, and ballast needed. This boat wasn't any slouch in its day, As Havelock says, it was originally built as a ic powered model so could stand being heavy. To achieve balance, its a matter of moving things around, not adding, so just move things forward, you will be surprised how the weight increases once you start adding Deck clutter, fittings and so on. Lightweight, is good. Your comment, stood up in the water at half throttle isn't going fast, its just bad weight displacement causing the bow tyo be too high. That setup would never have been that fast, the motor/battery combo will never cause a heavy ply boat to be going that fast its standing on end Couple of things to consider. Your nimhs, how many times have these been cycled, and what sort of charger are you using? A reasonable charger will give the information, if I know what you are using, Ill advise accordingly as you might not be getting the best from these batteries what prop are you on Think of an rc plane (if you fly them its easier) If the cog is too far back, the nose is pitching up, and its almost impossible to control, it almost porpoises in the air, and is very bad. COG is vital on a rc plane, nose heavy is better, only because its more controllable. COG is equally important with a boat, but harder to see the implications, the hull will give us false info, such as if the bow is up its on the plane, no, not necessarily, its not planing due to speed, its just out of balance. Shifting the weight radically will let you see this, sorry for the ramble, Wish you where closer to me I would love to help hands on👍 Ive tried to find a suitable video of my Huntman to display what I'm rambling on about. This video is poor quality, but it displays that boat moving very fast (25mph with on board data logger) but look how flat it is, its planning, as the forward 1/3 of the hull is out of the water, but its not standing on its tail, this is because its balanced. You boat is pretty similar in design to this so whilst you wont want to go this fast, the picture should look the same. This Huntsman weighs 6kg with batteries (lipos, you will NEVER get a nimh or lead acid to do this) and is 4 foot long, so quite a heavy old girl first constructed as an IC model in the early 70's. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5-YmmElIfk&t=34s and here is a picture of my 3 foot aerokits fireboat, bow up, is it planing, no, its way out of balance, it wasnt actaully going that fast Hope that helps Paul

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Fair enough pmdevlin I accept what you are saying, however it started as a motor not being big enough for the size of the propeller and then went on further as the shaft was 4BA not 4mm and I could not locate a smaller prop, a plain brass tube and stainless shaft has been fitted,way back in the 60's when it was first started and as I knew nothing about boats in 2015 when I finished the basic structure, I did not know that it would have been the smart thing to fit a shaft with bearings. So this is the way I am going to go, I have ordered the 850 brush motor and the adapter to fit the motor shaft to my red coupling,this I have been assured will be more than big enough to drive the prop without getting hot or needing a water jacket, if this is the case when I fit it and sail it, then result, if not I will then have to go down the path that you suggest, I have nothing to lose trying the larger motor and everything to gain if it works. By the way the batteries are all new

Motor problem by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
here is the problem Richard, when you ask for advise on an open forum, you get a few individual takes!😁 IMO, its not so much the motor at this stage, its the ba thread thing. You can stick a Ferrari v12 in there, but you still need to consider how to attach the thing that is actually going to drive you along, a prop, be it 2, 3 or more blades Whilst buying the 850 motor, take the boat into the shop and get the bearings for your outer tube, and a new mm stainless shaft, and any couplings that are needed. If the outershaft is a size that will not accommodate any new bearings, then it will have to come out, regardless of the motor (don't forget a mount) that you buy. The suggested nylon 2 blade prop sizes that Havelock has posted in the motor spec are what I suggested a few days ago. Don't forget, that spec etc is generic, its not going to be "fit all" its down to you to test and establish what works best for your boat, we don't know its weight, and the condition of your batteries etc.

Motor problem by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Richard, molegrips to get the lot out, outershaft and all, its very painful, squeeze tight and twist, you will be supruised how it comes out with some tapping. You could get the bearings out of the top and bottom of your existing shaft, if they look like black plastic, put the shaft in, catch the edge from inside and knock out, they are opush fit, then replace with new 4mm/5mm aceteal, (no doubt spelt wrong)a quid or so each, and are water lubricated. SHG Marine do all of this, they are good at props. If they look metal, they will be either brass, or bronze, and you will prob have to heat the end of the shaft. Try the tapping method, you might get lucky. so now, original outershaft still in place, no bearings either end, and you need a new mm shaft, get stainless. The trick is now, getting bearings to fit if its a real old shaft. Is a good time now to fit an oiler tube whilst everything is out, and clean using thinners etc any gungle inside the shaft. After all this, its not much more effort to get the old one out, and epoxy a new one in, you can buy it complete with inner and outer shafts, bearings, and the right thread, and a couple of test props whilst the wallet is out! Never said it was going to be easy😜

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
I like Blunt, the guy a Howes model shop, who was into boats himself retired and only worked there a couple of mornings a week, also said to remove the complete shaft and replace it with a metric one much the same as yourself, it is just the thought of what damage I may do to the boat as I know I fixed it in really well, he also said to get a 4mm prop-shaft and to see if the shaft would fit into the existing tube, so I am going to take both your advice and at this time go for a 4mm but try the shaft first, however I do not think pulling it out with mole grips will work on this occasion. Watch this space😡 Thanks

Motor problem by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
the scoop should be fitted behind the prop so prop wash is driving water through it whenever the motor is running and the cooling coil fits around the motor join the two up with fuel tube etc. then the other end of the coil connect to an outlet ( unless you want a self filling boat) http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/cooling-coils.h... http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000029.pl?REFP... As to sitting on your boat you could put it in the water and get some one to hold it while you run the motor up and watch the current used. closing off the cooling vents to an electric motor not used in a speed model shouldn't be any problem if you have the correct prop an electric motor should only get hand warm. The temps you indicate would have burned out your motor even if there had been no covering over the motor at all. With an electric ( brushed) motor the more you load it the higher the current flow and the hotter it gets. Stall current tend towards infinity you have what I think is a 60mm prop and that's a BIG prop being 3 bladed makes the situation worse since there is increased blade area against a 2 bladed prop. If you intend to use that prop then get a motor man enough to swing it.