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>> Home > Tags > prop tube

prop tube
brass tube
brass prop
prop
prop shaft
propeller
propshaft
propshaft alignment
propshop
racing prop
prop tube
advise required by teejay Lieutenant   Posted: 3 hours ago
Hi all I am at the stage with the schenllboot that I have to think about the radio control system , the boat is equipped with three speed 400 motors and 35mm props and 4mm shafts yet to be fitted oiling tubes, I know need advice on what type and make of electronics will be required, please could any one wishing to help keep it simple as still have learn how walk with the RC stuff. I have looked at the all things RC but I would like to invest in quality kit.

NAXOS - Fishing Boat by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Depending on what voltage you intend using governs what gearing you should use commensurate with size and weight of model and prop size , IE small boat and prop ,low voltage direct drive would do. As you go bigger then consider gearing.Bear in mind the torque produced by the drill. You could build a large boat with a fine turn of speed using that motor. The thing is there are so many possible variables you could experiment till the cows come home. The thing is how big a boat can you handle without putting your back out. LOL. If you remove the existing gear and replace it with one secured by grub screws and a "GearBox" with easily changed cogs you can achieve something suitable. You shouldn't need cooling .Remember the drill had none and your motor will have free space round it in the hull. If you decide you do want cooling annealed copper tubing can be wound round the can and one of the plastic tubes used to couple this to the scoop and the outlet. One way of making a scoop is a length of tubing with a slot cut in it and a cap soldered (or glued depending on material) on the end when in place under the hull the cutout will face forward. Preferably in the prop wash.Or buy a ready made scoop from a model shop. Much simpler as the mounting method will be incorporated in it already. Here is a page of suitable shops.--https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=model+boat+shops&npsic=0&r... Good luck. P.S. Join a club. Youll get loads of help from the other members.👍👍

S 100 Schnellboot RC build by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Ron, did you ever try 3 props for comparison? If yours is the 1:35 Italeri I don't see any problem with space for 3 shafts. I have an approx 1:35 MTB currently with 2 shafts, 'as seen and bought' next season I propose to fit a 3rd motor and shaft: port and starboard for cruising, switch-in centre motor for "All ahead flank"! BTW: I have a couple of kits for the S100 "Schnellboot, otherwise known as E Boat, E for Enemy😉, one Airfix and one Revell, both 1:72. I intend to fit them with 3 motors as well - 'Plastic Magic' 😁 Motors already sourced from X-Drive, shafts will be home brew from silver steel and brass tube with sintered phosphor bronze bearings. "Nothing is impossible", I drive a Toyota 😉😉 Cheers Doug 😎

Sea Queen prop shaft by AndyG009 Lieutenant   Posted: 12 days ago
Obtained a length of Stainless Steel 600 mm long 5 mm diameter (it is slightly greater diameter than the Raboesch bearings), used 400 wet and dry - couple (or three) rubs - check - repeat, actually it took some time but now fits, only one end, as the prop end fits the bearing. Still have to put a thread on it, will take mturpin's advice. I only actually needed a shaft about 60 mm longer than the Raboesch. One thing I forgot to mention is the fact that when I decided to up size to a 5 mm shaft, and the Raboesch maintenance free, is that the outer tube did fit the pre-made hole in the keel but there was no movement for adjustment. Making that hole larger was one of the most difficult bits up to now. Had to make - what I would call a prop shaft hole enlarger - bit of a bodge but it worked.

Scratch build twin pontoon water jet boat by Grumpy1949 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi fellow mariners, winter approaches time to get a couple of projects under way. Is there a general rule for the positioning of the pontoons in order not to flip over at speed. I am using a nqd water jet for propulsion mounted in the centre hull. The pontoons will be hydroplane shaped with a step half the length of the lower surface. Aluminium tubes will run from one pod thru the main hull into the other pod. There will not be any panel shrouding between the pods and the main hull like a true hydroplane. Overall length about 30cm not sure of the width yet. Have seen a few foam builds on utube but really no help. Any help would be appreciated Gordon from downunder😆

Rudders and propeller by teejay Lieutenant   Posted: 26 days ago
Hi all for the second blog report on the schenllboot I am going to go over the rudder an propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat , these were made to be above the water line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts .which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel)and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum power mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The forth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I have to ask for some help could any one advise me on the length of propeller shafts , I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft but port and starboard will have to be longer . and I also need advice on selecting the motors , I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by kmbcsecretary Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
The rudder assembly was made using a 200mm prop shaft squared of on the lower 3/4 of the shaft to allow for secure fixing for the rudder made from three layers of 4mm ply. The rudder was fixed to the shaft using 2ton epoxy and held in place with three pieces of brass strip which are bolted through the rudder The prop tube bearings were cut of the ends and fixed into the hull for the rudder shaft , I have also installed rubber o rings to insure no water can come in through the rudder posts.

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by reilly4 Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Rowen, I have had water cooling on all my patrol boats running at 12Volts, whether brushed or now brushless. For the brushed motors I have used aluminium tube coils with water pickups between the propellers and rudders. I did try water jackets a couple of times but found too much friction loss and therefore lack of flow. For the newer brushless outrunners I use a brass tube soldered to a brass plate across the front of the motor fitted between it and motor mounting bracket. I agree with Doug with regards to the disconnection of the red wires on the ESC's. This is now common practice, especially if you have an external receiver battery.

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute by Richard7 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
Yikes Frodo, I have just measured my plank lengths and indeed they are shorter than the hull approx. 90-100cm!! Considering two kits are identical this must be the intention of billing boats. Has anyone got and advice on this? I was thinking that it might be best to split the plank in half, glue the bow and stern ends first, then glue a plank section in the middle area? "We could do with some help here chaps". Another thing Frodo, do not try and fit the M500 motor I have!! (please see photos), stick with the M400 its smaller. As you can see in the photos my battery will not fit....GULP. Does anyone know if there is a smaller battery out there? The one I have is a 4405385 (Cornwall model boats P/N) 7.2V 3300 H. One other thing Frodo "DO NOT" fit the metal rudder post & item 16, if you do you will not get your inner prop shaft into the tube. The only way to do this would be to remove the motor. Probably best to leave the rudder & item 16 until you have fitted the motor & battery. Also I am finding the space in the hull is very limited for radio control, choose your equipment wisely. I am now thinking I must ditch the M500 motor for the M400 and then look at alternative battery size. After building the Boulogne-Etaples this St Canute kit is extremely challenging. Anyone out there with some suggestions would be a great help....kind of sinking here a bit (a few photos attached) Frodo if you have any further questions please let us know. Cheers Richard.

HMS HOOD by Trumpeter by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Steve, with the 'reservoir' I mentioned I meant a 'smoke reservoir' or a sort of collector, i.e. a wider section of the updraught tube, bulbous or upside-down funnel, to concentrate the smoke and then 'chuff' it out with the fan. Seems the modern versions of the Graupner gennys are very different from the one I bought 20 years ago! Mine has a narrow glass tube underneath which dips into the aerosol cap oil tank and feeds the genny by capillary action. Means it last for ages (well all afternoon anyway😉) on a 'tank' full. As I understand it the maximum fill (0.8ml) of the new one lasts about 8 minutes at 6V / 300mA. I have some of the new ones now and see what you mean by 'charging' from above. But, how do you propose to fit it? If it's a tight flush fit in the tube won't you lose the updraught chimney effect cos it can't draw cold air in around the genny tube? Yep, the 24V put me off as well. Rooky mentioned using a voltage 'booster' (i.e. doubler) but these are notoriously inefficient and if you're running on 7.2 or 7.4 main batt .....!? Just my thoughts, must experiment with the new versions. BTW: my static bench tests back then were also quite impressive, stunk the kitchen out 😡, but out in the open air with a bit of breeze or under way at speed it didn't look quite the same 🤔 Be interesting to compare notes when we both have them operational! Re 'Morse message': had hoped that an ex navy guy like Ed could decode it 👍 Cheers Doug 😎 BTW: your funnel construction and painting looks terrific 👍

Devil in the detail! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Doug, Looking at my rudders comparing them to some pics I’ve found online, my rudders are too big and therefore I will reduce them in size, no biggie, 10 minutes work should see that done. Back to the struts. I would have made them from brass, however as my propshafts are in brass tubes for the whole length, I feel that the plastic versions I’ve made should be ok for aesthetics as the brass tubes seem rigid enough, hopefully no chance of any whip? I’m planning on running this on 2S lipo to give a scale speed, all depends what the watt meters says when I test the motors with props in water. Having the option to go to 3S if needed. I don’t plan on having a great deal of rudder throw and will programme in some expo to soften the rudders throw. Of course, if needed, I am more than happy to make adjustments and incorporate recommendations as given by the lovely people on this forum. It’s still a learning curve for me as I bring 45 years of aircraft experience over to the boat world! If anyone requires any aircraft advice, I’m your man!

Devil in the detail! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I'm with you there Skydive 👍What Boatshed means is the part of the rudder in front of the stock. Thinks: are you building an Offshore Power Boat or a scale Lifeboat? If the former then follow Boatshed's recommendation. If the latter and the rudder is 'scale' then leave it alone. Any braking effect, which usually is only significant in a fast racing boat model or other fast planing types, can be diminished by reducing the rudder servo throw at the TX. One should also consider how the original behaved, maybe they did 'dig in' maybe not. There has to be a reason why such rudders were developed, and surely not just to annoy modellers 😁 One more minor point that struck me - Ouch 😭 Your prop struts! "not that it provides a huge amount of support but adds to the scale appearance." Even in a model they can be important. To help reduce potential whipping of the propshaft, especially if the model is overpowered. Actually in the originals they were vital, especially in larger vessels. The purpose of these struts, in larger vessels 'A' frames, is to provide support to the end of the shaft which carries the prop weighing several tons and, more important, to carry the bearing for the outer end of the shaft! Actually in the originals the shaft tube, or 'Stuffing Box' would not extend significantly beyond the hull. Thus the strut or A frame was vital for the shaft end bearing, fitted immediately in front of the prop for maximum stability. Attached pics of my HMS Belfast (sorry don't 'ave nutt'n smaller with this feature🤔) show the arrangement. Have witnessed such construction in various shipyards around the world. Last one in UK was the first T45, quite an experience! 😲 In the end she's your boat, if it feels good do it! 😉 I would leave the rudder alone if it is 'as fitted'. 👍 I make my struts and A frames from brass sheet and tube. Cheers Doug 😎 PS Stick with the brass Donnie! 👍

Propshaft and oiler fitting by jaffy012 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 months ago
hi i am building this kit where can i purchase the prop tube bracket, i have looked every where i live in oz, many thanks colin👍

Anchor chain tubes by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
I forgot about this bit, it was done before the hull and decks were painted. The tubes to take the anchor chain, there is probable a proper name for these but I have no idea what it is 😡 The positions on the deck were marked off and two holes drilled slightly smaller than the plastic tube that I was going to use, the same size holes were drilled on the hull, there are markings on the hull were the anchors go. Using a small round file the holes were opened up to take the tube, a small amount of super glue to hold the tubes in position and then the plastic tubes sanded off against the hull and deck. A bit of P38 around the tubes and sanded. Job done 😁

Make shift Washer! by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
HI Ed, Just looked closely at your propshaft, if you can knock out the bearing cut a little of the end of the tube and refit the bearing, that will increase the clearance to the rudder without removing the shaft tube, good luck, carefully protect the hull from saw cuts. Mark