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>> Home > Tags > prop tube

prop tube
brass tube
brass prop
prop
prop shaft
propeller
propshaft
propshaft alignment
propshop
racing prop
prop tube
Keel formers and prop tube placement by marky Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
glad to see that your little helper has all his safety gear on and the force is with him.👍cheers Marky

Keel formers and prop tube placement by Skydive130 Admiral   Posted: 5 days ago
Had a pleasant morning measuring and cutting the start of the keel formers and the prop shaft formers (is that what they call a stuffing box?). Looking more like a boat instead of a box after this early stage! Next to do is Finnish the hull formers bottom and sides followed by the chimes before hull sheeting starts.

Motor problem by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi Richard, that lead acid is way too big and heavy. I Remember going on hols as a kid, car was loaded up, all family, roofrack, deck chairs, tent and so on, and Dads old Moggie Traveller would barely climb the Welsh hills! Same here, its just dead weight, ideal for a tug etc, no speed required, and ballast needed. This boat wasn't any slouch in its day, As Havelock says, it was originally built as a ic powered model so could stand being heavy. To achieve balance, its a matter of moving things around, not adding, so just move things forward, you will be surprised how the weight increases once you start adding Deck clutter, fittings and so on. Lightweight, is good. Your comment, stood up in the water at half throttle isn't going fast, its just bad weight displacement causing the bow tyo be too high. That setup would never have been that fast, the motor/battery combo will never cause a heavy ply boat to be going that fast its standing on end Couple of things to consider. Your nimhs, how many times have these been cycled, and what sort of charger are you using? A reasonable charger will give the information, if I know what you are using, Ill advise accordingly as you might not be getting the best from these batteries what prop are you on Think of an rc plane (if you fly them its easier) If the cog is too far back, the nose is pitching up, and its almost impossible to control, it almost porpoises in the air, and is very bad. COG is vital on a rc plane, nose heavy is better, only because its more controllable. COG is equally important with a boat, but harder to see the implications, the hull will give us false info, such as if the bow is up its on the plane, no, not necessarily, its not planing due to speed, its just out of balance. Shifting the weight radically will let you see this, sorry for the ramble, Wish you where closer to me I would love to help hands on👍 Ive tried to find a suitable video of my Huntman to display what I'm rambling on about. This video is poor quality, but it displays that boat moving very fast (25mph with on board data logger) but look how flat it is, its planning, as the forward 1/3 of the hull is out of the water, but its not standing on its tail, this is because its balanced. You boat is pretty similar in design to this so whilst you wont want to go this fast, the picture should look the same. This Huntsman weighs 6kg with batteries (lipos, you will NEVER get a nimh or lead acid to do this) and is 4 foot long, so quite a heavy old girl first constructed as an IC model in the early 70's. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5-YmmElIfk&t=34s and here is a picture of my 3 foot aerokits fireboat, bow up, is it planing, no, its way out of balance, it wasnt actaully going that fast Hope that helps Paul

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 12 days ago
Fair enough pmdevlin I accept what you are saying, however it started as a motor not being big enough for the size of the propeller and then went on further as the shaft was 4BA not 4mm and I could not locate a smaller prop, a plain brass tube and stainless shaft has been fitted,way back in the 60's when it was first started and as I knew nothing about boats in 2015 when I finished the basic structure, I did not know that it would have been the smart thing to fit a shaft with bearings. So this is the way I am going to go, I have ordered the 850 brush motor and the adapter to fit the motor shaft to my red coupling,this I have been assured will be more than big enough to drive the prop without getting hot or needing a water jacket, if this is the case when I fit it and sail it, then result, if not I will then have to go down the path that you suggest, I have nothing to lose trying the larger motor and everything to gain if it works. By the way the batteries are all new

Motor problem by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
here is the problem Richard, when you ask for advise on an open forum, you get a few individual takes!😁 IMO, its not so much the motor at this stage, its the ba thread thing. You can stick a Ferrari v12 in there, but you still need to consider how to attach the thing that is actually going to drive you along, a prop, be it 2, 3 or more blades Whilst buying the 850 motor, take the boat into the shop and get the bearings for your outer tube, and a new mm stainless shaft, and any couplings that are needed. If the outershaft is a size that will not accommodate any new bearings, then it will have to come out, regardless of the motor (don't forget a mount) that you buy. The suggested nylon 2 blade prop sizes that Havelock has posted in the motor spec are what I suggested a few days ago. Don't forget, that spec etc is generic, its not going to be "fit all" its down to you to test and establish what works best for your boat, we don't know its weight, and the condition of your batteries etc.

Motor problem by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Hi Richard, molegrips to get the lot out, outershaft and all, its very painful, squeeze tight and twist, you will be supruised how it comes out with some tapping. You could get the bearings out of the top and bottom of your existing shaft, if they look like black plastic, put the shaft in, catch the edge from inside and knock out, they are opush fit, then replace with new 4mm/5mm aceteal, (no doubt spelt wrong)a quid or so each, and are water lubricated. SHG Marine do all of this, they are good at props. If they look metal, they will be either brass, or bronze, and you will prob have to heat the end of the shaft. Try the tapping method, you might get lucky. so now, original outershaft still in place, no bearings either end, and you need a new mm shaft, get stainless. The trick is now, getting bearings to fit if its a real old shaft. Is a good time now to fit an oiler tube whilst everything is out, and clean using thinners etc any gungle inside the shaft. After all this, its not much more effort to get the old one out, and epoxy a new one in, you can buy it complete with inner and outer shafts, bearings, and the right thread, and a couple of test props whilst the wallet is out! Never said it was going to be easy😜

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 12 days ago
I like Blunt, the guy a Howes model shop, who was into boats himself retired and only worked there a couple of mornings a week, also said to remove the complete shaft and replace it with a metric one much the same as yourself, it is just the thought of what damage I may do to the boat as I know I fixed it in really well, he also said to get a 4mm prop-shaft and to see if the shaft would fit into the existing tube, so I am going to take both your advice and at this time go for a 4mm but try the shaft first, however I do not think pulling it out with mole grips will work on this occasion. Watch this space😡 Thanks

Motor problem by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
the scoop should be fitted behind the prop so prop wash is driving water through it whenever the motor is running and the cooling coil fits around the motor join the two up with fuel tube etc. then the other end of the coil connect to an outlet ( unless you want a self filling boat) http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/cooling-coils.h... http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000029.pl?REFP... As to sitting on your boat you could put it in the water and get some one to hold it while you run the motor up and watch the current used. closing off the cooling vents to an electric motor not used in a speed model shouldn't be any problem if you have the correct prop an electric motor should only get hand warm. The temps you indicate would have burned out your motor even if there had been no covering over the motor at all. With an electric ( brushed) motor the more you load it the higher the current flow and the hotter it gets. Stall current tend towards infinity you have what I think is a 60mm prop and that's a BIG prop being 3 bladed makes the situation worse since there is increased blade area against a 2 bladed prop. If you intend to use that prop then get a motor man enough to swing it.

Motor problem by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi Richard, looking at the markings on the motor case, it might be a 550 type, and rated at 7.2 volts, so it would seem to be at the top end of its capacity, did you manage to get the prop diameter? also is it plastic or brass? A 600 motor is a bit larger size and power wise but would still fit your motor mount, they are common in power drills so usually have plenty of torque, but can be power hungry. A prop to suit would be about 40mm, 2 blade or 35mm 3 blade both in brass, plastic props tend to be racing types with deep cuffs on the blades, possibly the cause of the burnout! The 850 is a lot larger and more powerful but would need a new mount and again is power hungry, probably needing 12 volts as well. Have a look on ebay 600 motors are about £5, but check to see what the rating of your ESC is, needs to be at least 20amps, although if it survived cooking the old motor it must have a good rating. Add a 15 - 20 amp fuse for protection. Just had a thought, is the prop shaft stiff to turn? should spin freely without the motor connected, might have old oil or grease in the tube causing excessive drag, this could cook the motor as well. A pic of the prop and its size would be a great help. Hope this helps Mark

Twin motor control problem by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
On the face of it its impossible however since it occurs we must accept reality. So brushed motors how is the suppression? Your statement about nothing connected to the water metal prop shafts and tubes? metal rudder shaft and tube? If you have a multimeter see if one of your prop shafts has a voltage. It has to be some effect of conduction and the prop shafts are the obvious conduit.

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi neil Mixture and temp are all important. You could try gentle heat from a hairdryer to harden the resin. Adding extra hardener to the mix is not advisable as it can lead to unpredictable results. Epoxy is not ideal as a filler but you can make it more suitable by adding microballoons to the mix. This will result in a very hard finish which you can sand to shape. Personally I use car body filler when fixing in prop shafts / rudder tubes etc as this can be easily faired into the hull contour and will easily take paint. I have successfully used this over epoxy joints. Whatever you use you need to make sure the work environment is not too cold. The temperatures have dropped considerably over the last few weeks so you may need to provide a warm environment to assist the curing process. Dave

Jaydee by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Ian It's a racing prop and will use lots of power hence the heat. As you have a cabin cruiser it does not need such a coarse pitch prop and changing to a prop with a lesser pitch will improve your running time and produce less heat. Performance will depend on the chosen prop but should not be much different from what you already experience. As you already have a water cooler inlet and outlet you could just wrap some copper tube round the motor and connect with silicon tubing to keep the heat down Dave

TAMIYA. King George V. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi again Colin, apropos prop tubes and shafts for plastic magic, here's a good method- http://www.building-model-boats.com/model-boat-propeller-sha... and here how to make the props themselves, for us method 2 is adequate. http://members.dodo.com.au/~sjbatche/making_propellers.htm Happy snipping! Cheers and good night, Doug

TAMIYA. King George V. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Colin, what scale is it? If you Google 'Plastic Magic' you should get lots of example of this from 350 / 400 scale carriers and battleships down to 72 scale Vosper MTB, KM S100 / E-Boat etc. There are also several Plastic magic articles in Model Boats magazine. The general principles are always the same: lightweight miniaturised electronics incl. servos! Do a max payload test on the bare hull as the very first thing. Weigh the major superstructure assemblies and decks and subtract from max payload: that's what's left for electronics and battery! The kit props are generally useless, no pitch, so make your own out of tinplate or 0.5mm brass. can be a little oversize, no one will know😉 Prop shafts and tubes: 2mm OD / 1mm ID brass tube with 1mm silver steel or piano wire shafts. Couplings from shrink sleeve. will dig out some motor types and sources tomorrow, there are also some given in the Model Boats mag articles. That's where I found the Micron Radio tip😊 Can heartily recommend Micron radio for the smallest combination RX and ESC on one tiny board that I've ever seen! Talk to Andy Rutter, he offers excellent advice and will fit tiny connectors and pre-program the RX board to match what you want to do. He also has very very tiny servos which are ideal.👍 http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/ Look under RC components - 'Deltang Ultra micro'. you ain't gonna get no teeny weenier! I went weak today 😲 and ordered a 350 scale Prince of Wales, to match my 350 scale Bismarck, Hood and Ark Royal. Battle of Denmark Straight here we come! Cost a tad more than 25 pence though 🤔 Good luck Doug 😎

Jaydee by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Ian Looking at the pics it would appear to sit correctly and certainly planes well. If your ballast is forrard it will mean it has to be lifted to plane, at the cost of increased power. If you are still using the Mtronics 600 motor the prop is about right. The specs say 6-12v so running at 7.2 v will probably account for the heating problem. A higher voltage will allow the motor to run at its optimum design speed and cooler. The stall current is 48 amps! I am assuming you have a good a free running prop shaft and tube and the motor and coupling are aligned? Can you post a pic of your prop? Dave