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>> Home > Tags > prop

prop
prop
Motor, mount & prop-shaft. by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 hours ago
I agree with Rob, Mike Cummings is such a nice guy he has been so supportive with my build sending me copies of drawings I may need without even asking, he even sent me a Christmas card. Keep up the good work Rob

Motor, mount & prop-shaft. by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 hours ago
As far as I can remember it was from them at the show. I think they were on one of the club stands with a few boats showing the wording on the side of model boats Families Need Fathers. I will try emailing the VMW website tomorrow. Thanks for you input.

Motor, mount & prop-shaft. by Joe727 Captain   Posted: 23 hours ago
Like your build, coming along nicely. I like your alignment method, always had some trouble with this. On my current build I used a short piece of brass tubing, same length as the coupler. It was 3/16" ID and fit tightly over the two 3/16" OD shafts. Worked well for alignment. Keep up the good work. Joe

Motor, mount & prop-shaft. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Did you buy the VMW crash tender directly from VMW or from a dealer at the W&W show ? Either way, I'm reasonably sure that if you contact Mike at VMW he'll sort you out with the missing bits. There's no reason to be dissappointed then, and the quality of the kit exceeded all my expectations and I bought my kit secondhand from an eBay seller but VMW gave me full after sales support just as they would have done if I'd bought it from them directly. If you don't ask...you don't get. Oh...and if your'e wondering, I have no commercial interest in VMW, they are just really nice guys 👍 Rob.

Motor, mount & prop-shaft. by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
I have looked at the bag of white metal fittings and I do not even have the mast it shows. Trouble is I bought it so long ago now at the show, didn't get a receipt when I paid for it so I cannot exactly do anything now. Too long ago.

Motor, mount & prop-shaft. by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
I have just visited their site again and they do not show much to do with the boats they have for sale. All I see is the 46" RAF Crash Tender and the Police Launch that just has a picture and no other information. They show no prices, I was also under the impression that they had several models in their list for sale. I do have the 46" Crash Tender I purchased at Wings'n'Wheels about three years ago. I din't find their site that informative other than for the Crash Tender. My kit doesn't even have the windows and decals that is says and shows in the descriptions. I'm very disappointed really. I will get round to building it one day though. As I will the 34" I bout back in 1994 from Aerokits.

Motor, mount & prop-shaft. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Hi Dave. The boat won't be finished in time for the show but it will be there anyway. The kit is made by Vintage Model Works not VMB See here: http://www.vintagemodelworks.co.uk/?page_id=18 Go right to the bottom of the page. They've not got around to doing a full description yet....I expect soon though. Give Mike Cummings a call for more details. Rob.

Motor, mount & prop-shaft. by rolfman2000 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
It's coming along nicely Robbob. Hope you get it finished in time for the model engineer exhibition. I still can't find it on the VMB website. Best wishes, Dave W 😊

Motor, mount & prop-shaft. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
The prop-shaft, coupling and motor mount that I ordered from ModelBoatBits has arrived so it seems a good a good time to make up a supporting wedge for the mount to fix to. I do have a rigid brass motor alignment aid that I used when building the Crash Tender but do you think I can find it in the workshop?....nope! 😡 I expect it will turn up when I need it least! 🤞 Not wanting to waste time I used a length of heat shrink tubing over the motor coupling to make it as rigid as possible, a trick I had seen done elsewhere, and this enabled me to position the motor on its mount in the desired position and measure the angle that the mounting wedge needs to be made to. I used an offcut of beech that I had in the workshop which I cut to size and then shaped it on the rotary sander that I bought in Lidl, fantastic piece of kit !!. The wedge was then drilled to take the nylon motor mount and also the fixing screws that pass through the beech block, through the balsa base of the box and into the ply reinforcing plate that I put in during early construction of the hull. After cleaning up the hole through the keel the prop-shaft was keyed with some abrasive, smeared with some epoxy and then pushed through to mate with the motor coupling. I used the excess epoxy resin around the shaft inside the hull and used some packing tape to stop it running out when I inverted the hull to seal the lower end. A quick spin on the motor confirmed that the alignment was spot-on and the hull set aside while the epoxy set. The next step will be to plank the deck.

HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Very good 😁 That could have come from me Steve! How'd you find such an appropriate vid so fast!?👍 (Rhetorical question!)

Railings by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
I have made just a couple of bits for different models. As well as used it to make something for my granddaughters dolls house. But I keep a supply just in case I need it for the model boats and cars. This is the mast I first made from it on my 28" RAF Crash Tender. I shrunk the plan parts on a scanner and made it from 90% balsa. The water trial was a bit of a failure as the brass prop was too large and 4 bladed. I have since invested in 3 smaller ones 30, 25, and 20mm 3 bladed brass but not got around to another sea trial yet. Also as you can see she still needs to be finished with painting. I will get round to it one day.

de Mist Naval Tug by Joburg-sailor Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
Thanks for info Doug. Unfortunately several of the websites get error messages or have dropped access to the address. I think the Sturrock plans route seems to be the way to go (a pricey plan though for our horrendous currency exchange rate!) and was the source of the Ralph Wilmot model. Looking at some of the pics of the rudder layout when she was on the hard pending being put into the Maritime Museum, she had twin props and twin rudders...Sturrock didn't have twin rudders so obviously was built to the Sturrock plan. I have sent off a few emails and await any further guidance/info before I make any decisions. Thanks Glyn re Durban Club. I have mailed a member too.

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi A few pics of my modify setup, no pics before hand. Moving weight fore or adding ballast works better than wedges. Only tested the boat by myself and I gave it a real workout. Motor 3639-1100kv, 60A ESC, 5800mah Lipo and 37mm 3blade prop. A 40mm 2blade works better and uses a bit less power. Rudder blade size 30mm across the top, 22mm across the bottom, 45 deep and the shaft 10mm from the leading edge. Sharpen the leading edge and the trialing edge flat. This catches are air in the water and send it to the surface. Canabus

HMS BRAVE BORDERER by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Yes also, I would love to see pictures. Very interested . I even went as far as fitting small wooden wedges on the rear of the under side corners of the hull. that was all trial and error from other modelers suggestions on the pond side. Prop swaps and all sorts.

Smoke generator by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 8 days ago
Have just made a prototype of a fan forced smoker which seems to be working well (despite breaking the heater coil by moving it while hot, - had it apart, broke wire, screw and washer repair, not quite as hot) I bought a couple of Heng Long smokers (for R/C tanks or cars) to play with, for $10 NZ each(or 5.3 Euros to you Northerners give or take a yen) from Bangood and just bought another from Ebay. There seem to be 2 different models, as one has a long coil with a lamp wick draped over it, which is sitting in the oil reservoir, the other has a small coil inside a piece of heat resistant woven tubing (as you might find insulating toaster/heater wiring etc) which acts as a wick and that also sits in cotton wool in the reservoir, (this seems to be the better of the two) Tip - don't fill the tank right up, only enough to soak the cotton, element should be just out of the oil. The wick loads the element. The better model seems to have a black top to the tank (also maybe either brown or black tank) and the other has a brown top and dirty brown tank. As with most of this stuff you won't know till you get it what it's going to be. What I did was remove the tank and cut off the pump tube just in front of the screw lugs (see black line in photo) then fitted the tank, and a 40x40x10 5v ESC fan (voltage controlled by a UBEC set to 5v on the jumpers) into a plastic electronics utility box from Jaycar (our local electronics and hobby store). I made up a double JST lead for the 2s 1800Mah Lipo and fired it up (using baby oil). It's pretty much silent and smokes well once it gets warmed up, ( starts smoking in about 5 seconds) You could control it (on/off volume) by either a remote on/off switch or perhaps a small cheap 10A brushed ESC. I would leave the fan running and control the element to avoid burning the element. The original pump tank inlet hole seems ok as is (approx 1.5mm) but you could enlarge it very slightly to get a better flow if you could find a better oil. At the electronics store they have proper smoke machine oil for $20 NZ per litre so I may have a look at that. The reason I went for the fan idea was that I found in std pump form, if I immersed a tube from the tank in water, it sucked water back into the tank. I was hoping it would pump smoke out of my HSL exhausts at water level alongside the cooling water but it would need a very light non return valve to do this. The fan seems to pump the smoke through 2mm ID silicone tube ok, so tubing of similar ID to the OD of the tank outlets should work well. These pumps in original form work pretty well for the price, and are cheap enough to keep a few for spare elements, the only thing is they are a bit noisy but in an 'engine sounding' way, (might add to the effect on a tug or work-boat though) What you have left after this mod is a very handy little geared motor with an eccentric output wheel which could be used for winches, radar and whirly bits of any description (see pic of motor leftover and original) To avoid burnout, these should be run on no more than a 2s (around 7.5v-(suggest 8v max with fan running) The other tank is going to work a lot better than this one but I'm not making a tug, just want a bit of exhaust smoke on start-up etc to go with the 2 sound units. Very cheap to make (around $25 NZ with pump, box, fan and UBEC all through Ebay, Aliexpress and Bangood (and local electronics store) If you wanted to run an ESC to control the smoke and you have no channels left to control it proportionally, you can always try using a second receiver bound to your TX, (if your TX will allow it,) power it and a brushed ESC (wired to the element) as normal and use the throttle channel to plug in your smoke control. This should work if you want more smoke as you accelerate or if you are using only 1 stick on a 2 stick TX you could use your 'elevator' stick pushed up (or a toggle switch if available) to start/stop the smoke (through the brushed ESC setup) . This setup weighs 100g (10g more than std) The quest for lots of smoke continues Will try to upload vid later and update progress.