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>> Home > Tags > prop

prop
prop
Trimaran USV by analyst Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 16 hours ago
@figtree7nts - yeah as much as possible i will minimize the weight. i think only the weight of a 3hp motor will be the primary consideration and the rest(electronics) will be minimal. speaking of electronics, can you share a simple layout for the needed electronics on this one? I'm a total noob and until now I'm still at lost on what specific items to buy aside from the motor. prop and shaft will be fabricated locally. I already have Rx from the Taranis Tx. All i want for now is for her to run wirelessly for about 100 meters for trials before i consider putting telemetry and cameras. I'm confused of; what size of servos should i use? How many servos? What size and type of battery? Do i need an external antenna? if yes, what type? Hope to have some recommendations from the members. a layout would be much appreciated. thanks in advance

Bargain of the year by justintime2001 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 day ago
46" RAF Crash/Fire Tender Kit Brand New & Boxed + Almost everything needed to complete the build. Cost £565 - A True Bargain at £300 for the lot – Don’t miss this great opportunity Sale Includes: All items are brand new, unopened Vosper 46" RAF Crash Tender Kit x 1 Boat ESC Programming Card x 1 90A Boat ESC 4A SBEC x 1 11.1V 5000mAh 35C continuous discharge lipo battery x 2 Tornado Thumper V2 4260/06 500KV - Brushless Outrunner RC Motor x 1 Canopy Glue Formula 560 x 1 Prop Shaft - 13" Maxidrive ( 8mm Tube/5mm Inner ) x 1 Propshaft Grease x1 Universal Joint x 1 Propshaft Oiler Clamp Kit x 1 XL Brass Rudder x 1 Waterproof Toggle Switch x 1 ZAP Z Poxy x 1 Dual Power iMAX B6 AC Lipo NiMh RC Battery Balance Charger/Discharger x 1 Woven Glass Twill 100g 1m Wide x 3 EL2 Epoxy Laminating Epoxy 770g + AT30 Epoxy Hardener Slow 230g x 1 30 Amp Inline Mini Blade Fuse Holder & Fuse (Splashproof) x 1 Flexible Silicone Wire Cable 14AWG Red & Black x 1 5 Pairs XT-60 Male Female Lipo Battery Connectors Plugs x 1 Collected from Burton on Trent or Could meet part way Bargain at £300 for the lot. Cost £565 so a saving of £265.

Mount Fleet River Queen by Robo177 Petty Officer   Posted: 4 days ago
For sale a Mount Fleet River Queen kit. The kit was bought over two yrs ago. I started it but has been left for a long time. The kit is complete as per website spec except for prop shaft. All bits are still boxed or in original packaging. The kit is £225+P&P on Mount Fleet site. I'm looking for £175. Ideally collection only but will post at buyers cost. I live in Burnham on Sea, Somerset. Please don't hesitate to PM on site if you would like more info. Kevin

An unfinished model of HMS Marvel by Colsie334 Petty Officer   Posted: 5 days ago
I have the model HMS Marvel, its nearly finished but the remainder of parts are too small for me to handle, it has the props and shafts and rudder and motors fitted, so I have decided to sell it, and am looking for £150, please phone on 01708766698 (Romford Essex , the kit cost £250 if anyone is interested,

2 motors 1 esc by sonar Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
Many thanks for the suggestion I will take a look Funny you should mention this website as I just ordered the props from them just a few seconds ago

X System by mactin Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 6 days ago
hello MBWs A little project im currently working on which may possibly change everything its a non aspirating zero emissions adjacent combustion two stroke submarine propulsion system its self sustaining and its fuel is good old H2O! yes I know you probably think im mental and youre probably right but ive had the test bedder running.

Fiberglassing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Hi chugalone 100 Welcome to the site. You can fibreglass with different types of resin and cloth. If you are making and casting a fibreglass hull use fibreglass matting but to cover a hull lightweight fibreglass cloth is best. This is the type shown in the suggested video. Resin can be epoxy or polyester based but the latter is generally cheaper and in my opinion is easier to use and doesn't require thinning with alcohol. It is sold as layup resin and is supplied with hardener. Do follow the instructions re quantity of each part and mix thoroughly. If you are using epoxy Iso Propyl Alcohol is the type to use and is clear. The video shows using a brush to apply the resin and whilst this is OK it will give a very thick and heavy coating. I use the brush to apply and then a credit card sized piece of plasticard to spread the resin over and into the surface of the cloth resulting in an almost opaque finish with the weave showing through. You do need to have a good surface to work with as any imperfections will show when the resin hardens. Once dry give a light sanding all over to remove any imperfections and fill any holes with car body filler and sand smooth. I then apply a very thin top coat of the resin using a brush. When dry use wet and dry to sand and if necessary apply further thin coats until you have the finish you require. I have a local supplier and if you visit the site http://www.resin-supplies.co.u k/product.htm all the resins/cloths etc are listed. Using Google should bring up a local supplier. you do need to follow the safety instructions to protect yourself and wear appropriate protection for your hands, eyes and breathing, it is also best to apply in a well ventilated area and not on a cold day. The end result will be well worth the effort to keep your tug waterproof. You could also paint the resin over thye inside of the hull to protect the wood from any water that doeos find its way inside. Dave

USCGC Yocona WMEC 168 by haleskevin Petty Officer   Posted: 9 days ago
Build started a month or so ago. Scratch build from USCG plans from CG museum Northwest. Basswood frame, strip construction, polystyrene super structure. Props are for show right now, but it will steam someday.

dicky motor by marlina2 Petty Officer   Posted: 10 days ago
It may be a transmitter/receiver problem or it may be in your drive setup that rears its ugly head once your on the water and your motor is under load. I had a similar problem with a twin motor setup which was fine out of the water but after 10 mins in the water I would lose drive to one or both props or one would slow down and just go round in circles (very embarrassing). I had no problem with radio setup so it had to be in the drive chain. I ended up changing both motors for ones with more armature poles, higher torque output and a different gear ratio. It also highlighted a problem with my first choice of battery which quite frankly were pants and used to produce similar symptoms as you describe. I now use Lipo power packs, they do have disadvantages but you can not knock the power to weight ratio. The main problem I was having appeared to be down to the 3 pole motors that were fine until they were under load, this caused the motors to overheat which in turn increases the current drain on the battery's, the net result is the motor starts to arch across the commutator and effectively becomes a dead short which in turn shuts down your ESC's or drains your battery's very quickly. As you probably know if this was to happen with Lipo's there would be no need for a smoke generator! Of course this only applies to brushed motors if you are using a brush-less motor then it will probably not help you.

Norstar Wave Princess by AllenA Seaman   Posted: 12 days ago
Built this Wave Princess 30 years ago meaning to use it with my children. Languished in attic since and now retired going to resurrect her for Grandchildren and would welcome any advice on motor size, prop shaft length, Propeller size etc etc. Picked up an as new MacGregor Digimac 111 transmitter receiver and servos at Boot Sale for £5, seems fitting I should use it for the old girl.

Sad News by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Hi Mark, The rudder tubes are well above the water line! But I'll check them out. And the prop shafts were greest properly But i will recheck! I think I'm going to have to look at all the seams! Thanks for the advice, 👍 Hi Dave, The glue i used was Zap-a-Gap, also so Z-Poxy for the wood structure! I'm going to go over the hull and see if I can trace the leak! I suspect a seam that's on the bottom of the hull. That's where I felt the leak when I picked up the hull. But who know exactly where the water is coming from. I'll keep you posted, Thanks for your input really appreciate it 👍 Ed PS. I'm looking into the UHU Plus Acrylit!

The deck anti-slip finish. by canabus Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi Robbob I bought one built without running gear two weeks ago, but with a new set of Decals and new life buoys which I will make the locating bits as the old one's where only glued on. Half the bulb lights do not work so I have removed the wheelhouse roof. The grab hooks(which I have made), the drive line brushes required replacing so I replaced the shaft as well. Installed a Hobbyking 3648-1450kv with a 2 blade 40mm prop. I do not think my boat will be as nice as yours, but, I have seen a few bits on yours I can make, like an opening wheelhouse hatch

Sad News by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi Ed, its difficult when it happens but hopefully no lasting damage. Have a look at the prop shafts or the rudder posts, they are the most likely candidates. I would not wait to dry the hull, keep the electrics out but balast down to the waterline, use a torch???? the light will shine on the water coming in!!!! look around at the shafts rudders etc, you will be able to see any seepage. Hope this helps to find the cause Mark

KuK TB IV by Dainesh Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 13 days ago
[Score: 10/10] - Comments: Kaiserlich und Königlich (KuK) TB IV Recently built scale model boat (1:50). It is a fine art work. Length: 884mm Beam: 95mm One 3 blade propeller. Main armament: 2 45cm torpedo tubes, 2 4.7cm/L44 Skoda rapid firer. Crew: 20 people Speed:27.5 knots In 1905 the Austrian Naval Technical Committee presented three different designs for a 110t coastal torpedo-boat, mainly differing in the propulsion system (VTE or turbines). Having insufficient experience with turbines, a final VTE-propelled design with oil-firing was presented in 1907. To compare it with foreign technology, Krupp, Schichau and Yarrow were asked for competitive designs, all of which turned out to be inferior. Initially STT was ordered to build 8 such boats, but this was reduced to 6, because Danubius had to participate. When the older torpedo-boats lost their names in 1910 in favour of arable numbers, these units became in consequence Tb 1-Tb 6. The boats were surprisingly seaworthy up to sea state 5-6, and during the war they saw active service on escort, minesweeping and anti-submarine dunes.

Austro-Hungarian Topeedo Boat by Dainesh Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 13 days ago
Kaiserlich und Königlich (KuK) TB IV Recently built scale model boat (1:50). It is a fine art work. Length: 884mm Beam: 95mm One 3 blade propeller. Main armament: 2 45cm torpedo tubes, 2 4.7cm/L44 Skoda rapid firer. Crew: 20 people Speed:27.5 knots In 1905 the Austrian Naval Technical Committee presented three different designs for a 110t coastal torpedo-boat, mainly differing in the propulsion system (VTE or turbines). Having insufficient experience with turbines, a final VTE-propelled design with oil-firing was presented in 1907. To compare it with foreign technology, Krupp, Schichau and Yarrow were asked for competitive designs, all of which turned out to be inferior. Initially STT was ordered to build 8 such boats, but this was reduced to 6, because Danubius had to participate. When the older torpedo-boats lost their names in 1910 in favour of arable numbers, these units became in consequence Tb 1-Tb 6. The boats were surprisingly seaworthy up to sea state 5-6, and during the war they saw active service on escort, minesweeping and anti-submarine dunes.