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>> Home > Tags > prop

prop
prop
HMCS Sackville - WWII Corvette by gordc Petty Officer   Posted: 2 days ago
The boiler is 10 inches long and 4 inches in diameter. I designed it using the guidelines in one of Martin Evans' model engineering books. The centre flue is roughly 2 inches in diameter. The boiler volume is just over 1 litre to the top of the gauge glass. I bought the ceramic burner from Maccsteam. After lighting with gas, I switch to a liquid propane/butan e mixture which turns to vapour in the evaporating coil on the outside of the flue.

HMCS Sackville - WWII Corvette by gordc Petty Officer   Posted: 5 days ago
About 25 years ago I started building a Stuart Turner double 10 steam engine and soon after, I decided to build a boat to put it in. The photos show how far I've got. It's a model of a WWII corvette, HMCS Sackville. The original ship has been restored and is on display in Halifax, Nova Scotia. I've built it to a scale of 5/16" to the foot in order to have a displacement of roughly 40 pounds, which I figured I would need to accommodate the steam plant. It has an overall length is 65" and a 10" beam. The 5/16" scale also means that I have to make all the fittings for the boat from scratch. I'm working on the 4" gun right now. I had the hull in the water for the first time last September and discovered that the pitch of the propeller needed increasing and that the boiler couldn't make enough steam to keep the engine running at 600 rpm. The boat just sat there going nowhere. I've increased the propeller pitch and enlarged the burner orifice on the centre-flue boiler to increase the heat input, so I hope to do better this summer.

KuK TB XI by Dainesh Seaman   Posted: 6 days ago
[Score: 10/10] Single Propellor (3 Blade 30mm) Direct Drive Controlled Through Own built ESC - Comments: Recently built scale model boat (1:50). It is a fine art work. Length: 884mm Beam: 95mm One 3 blade propeller. The real boat was built in 1890 in Ganz-Danubius Fiume (Rijeka Croatia), for the Austrian –Hungarian Navy. These are one of the first torpedo boats, which colour was black or dark grey (according to that time strategy these boats used night time). Main armament: 2 45cm torpedo tubes, 2 4.7cm/L44 Skoda rapid firer. The crew of this boat was Czech. Crew: 20 people Speed:27.5 knots

1st World War Torpeedoboat for sale by Dainesh Seaman   Posted: 6 days ago
Kaiserlich und Königlich (KuK) TB XI Recently built scale model boat (1:50). It is a fine art work. Length: 884mm Beam: 95mm One 3 blade propeller. The real boat was built in 1890 in Ganz-Danubius Fiume (Rijeka Croatia), for the Austrian –Hungarian Navy. These are one of the first torpedo boats, which colour was black or dark grey (according to that time strategy these boats used night time). Main armament: 2 45cm torpedo tubes, 2 4.7cm/L44 Skoda rapid firer. The crew of this boat was Czech. Crew: 20 people Speed:27.5 knots If you interested in please contact me on: Denes.Kavai@gmail.com. Open to all sensible offers

Various Boat Building Items Inc Motor etc. by justintime2001 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
All items are brand new, unopened & unused. Buy 1 item or several. Boat ESC Programming Card x 1 90A Boat ESC 4A SBEC x 1 11.1V 5000mAh 35C continuous discharge lipo battery x 2 Tornado Thumper V2 4260/06 500KV - Brushless Outrunner RC Motor x 1 Canopy Glue Formula 560 x 1 Prop Shaft - 13" Maxidrive ( 8mm Tube/5mm Inner ) x 1 Propshaft Grease x1 Universal Joint x 1 Propshaft Oiler Clamp Kit x 1 XL Brass Rudder x 1 Waterproof Toggle Switch x 1 ZAP Z Poxy x 1 Dual Power iMAX B6 AC Lipo NiMh RC Battery Balance Charger/Discharger x 1 Woven Glass Twill 100g 1m Wide x 3 EL2 Epoxy Laminating Epoxy 770g + AT30 Epoxy Hardener Slow 230g x 1 30 Amp Inline Mini Blade Fuse Holder & Fuse (Splashproof) x 1 Flexible Silicone Wire Cable 14AWG Red & Black x 1 5 Pairs XT-60 Male Female Lipo Battery Connectors Plugs x 1 Open to all sensible offers.

More running gear by andycoburn Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
Propshaft and rudder assembly. Aligning the propshaft with a laser level

Gearbox by andycoburn Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
Gearbox and Coupling Assembly. Will run on a 27/14 reduction ratio. Should turn around a 50mm propeller for speeds around 65kmh

Perkasa 49 inch by BOATSHED Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
I used to take a rescue boat with me, A small electric boat with me and I had a piece of fishing lie about 15ft long with those small bouny balls that are about an inch in diamiter threaded along it and run it round the conked out boat. The line would go under the boat and catch round the prop or rudder the drag it back to shore. The fishing rod I take now is a telescopic one with a fixed spool reel and fly fishing line that's bright yellow and it floats. Hoping to cast over top of the boat then drag it back. I was getting quite good at it. Mainly on my brothers boat. Mine was quite reliable but did conk out sometimes.

The Hull Markings by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
The paint on the hull has sufficiently hardened and needs a couple of coats of clear lacquer to protect it but before that happens I need to apply the hull markings. The waterslide decal set that was supplied with my kit was probably at least 5 years old when I bought the kit on eBay and they had deteriorated so badly that when I put the large ‘FIRE’ lettering panel in some warm water it fragmented and clearly was not usable. I called Mike Cummings at vintage Model works and explained my dilemma and he very generously agreed to supply me with a replacement set, and in addition a set of the recently available printed vinyl letters and markings that they now produce. I decided to use the vinyl set as a quick test piece with the waterslide set revealed that the white ink is not solid and therefore not completely opaque. Furthermore I could not eliminate the ‘silvering’ effect that happens on waterslide decals despite using various lotions and potions such as Humbrol Decalfix and Microsol/Microset solutions. A test piece with the vinyl lettering sheet was far more successful and when over-lacquered on the test piece the results were very acceptable. Starting with the large FIRE lettering I cut a paper template the same size as the complete word and fixed this with low tack masking tape on the hull, this paper was then outlined in more masking tape to form a window and the vertical spacing of the letters transferred to this to keep the correct spacing. Vertical strips of tape were then used as positioning guides for the letters which were individually cut and placed so that I could eliminate all but the solid white letters and give them a hard edge. Feeling very pleased with myself I removed the masking tape guides and realised to my horror that I had set the baseline of the letters far too close to the waterline and the vertical proportions were completely wrong ….disaster 😱 Feeling ashamed that I could make such a basic error I abandoned the lettering and called Mike at VMW and described my foolish error, no problem he said, I’ll send you another vinyl sheet and also some additional drawing that were missing from my kit that would help with detail finishing. My second attempt with the new vinyl sheet employed the same process but I was careful to measure, mark and check the positions (several times!) before starting. The roundel and numerals positions at the bow and the stern were carefully measured and marked using the supplied drawings and masking tape ‘guides’ used to fix their positions before application. Lastly the roman numerals that span the waterline at the bow and stern were marked, cut and individually applied. I also took the opportunity to fix in place a couple of modified 6mm portholes to replicate the aft cockpit drain outlets, in the photo is the ‘94’ waterslide decal which I later removed and replaced with vinyl when I could not eliminate the ‘silvering’ problem. A big Thank You to Mike Cummings at Vintage Model works for replacing the lettering sheets TWICE! and for the extra drawings, I call that exceptional after sales service !. Cheers Mike 👍👍 .

Handed props by onetenor Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
You could do as I did and bought a matched pair of handed motors😤👍😁

Handed props by Haverlock Admiral   Posted: 10 days ago
its a little safer to take props off and put a piece of masking tape over the ends of the prop shafts. That way you can check rotation directions and keep a full set of fingers ~laughs~

Handed props by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Simple answer is yes, you need to wire the motors so the props both rotate in the correct direction. I usually use a wetted finger behind (stern) the prop to feel the wash of air when rotating in the forward direction. if you can feel it from the front (bow) side it needs the wires swapping on that motor. I suggest you also check that the tx channel is set in the normal as against reverse setting before you start as some ESCs run slower in the reverse direction. Hope this helps and if you find my post helpful please tick the like box as it helps others find the post Dave

Handed props by Rochdaleblue Petty Officer   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi guys need a little advice, I am finishing off a US Coast Guard Boat with twin props one left and one right handed, my question is if they are handed do the motors have to be wired up diferently i.e. One wired minus to plus and so on.

ELENA ROSE by Northumbrian Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
all ready to go new paint & varnished added new leather seating windscreen made from a plastic salad bowl 45mm 3 bladed brass prop 850 brushed motor powered by a 11.1 5000 mah lipo O and new cowls from the model shop 👍

Torpedo props by cormorant Commander   Posted: 11 days ago
Morning Folks. Thank you for all the advice. The prop, as you can see, has eight blades which are at different levels on the spinner. Having no experience of moulding, my latest plan is two use the two props on the rear torpedos. Unless I can find suitable props for the front torpedos I leave them out altogether. I can also leave the two forward torpedo launchers empty. As Octman has suggested, I can always say that the props are not visible as they are spinnng up for launching. Bit of a cop out I know. Steve