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>> Home > Tags > prop

It's a sad day!. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 hours ago
Yep, built mine with my Dad, a 34" Crash Tender. We used the then new PVA glue and to be honest, 54 years later it still holds well and is waterproof. I really must finish it some day! I confess I never had an IC engine in a boat, but I've always had an ED Racer with water jacket and big brass flywheel. Still have it on my shelf with others, but I could never get the buggers to start! So Dad made sure the Crash Tender had a good electric motor when he spoiled me with it all for my 11th Christmas. I had REP single channel R/C and a Taycol Supermarine motor and Taycol coupling. That's what's in it and will stay in it. Alas the R/C gear was stolen. I could replicate the case, but there just ain't the time for all these things, so an old Mini Hex 1970s Propo set will go in it as a classic curio. I used it for years with the REP on the oyster ponds at Paglesham. Left, centre, right, centre, wiggle right, wiggle right and so on. The Taycol ate batteries! Martin

Motor size advice by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Hi Morkullen I suggest a Hobbyking 3639-1100kv 35mm brushless motor with a 60 Amp ESC and a 2 blade 40mm prop. Battery a 3S Lipo 5800mah 25C will give you more than 1/2 hour. I had his setup in my 34" Sea commander with very good performance. Canabus

It's a sad day!. by Paultheotherone Seaman   Posted: 3 days ago
This post makes me realise how lucky we are as a club to actually own our lake and surrounding land. We run petrol, Nitro, fast electric and sail etc and have no residential property within earshot. I too used to go to a local park with a large lake but they stopped the use of fuel powered boats and fast electric.

getting a bit slow?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Martin, maybe you should read back what you wrote before you hit the 'Post' button? " over-pensioned old fools who spend a fortune on some very average kit and another on wheels and gearbox, motor, building, painting, lining, weathering, blah, blah and finally bragging about on forums. Kit snobbery is not only annoying, but to a scratchbuilder like me it is utterly stupid and pointless." Nobody here to my knowledge has bragged about the cost of their kits. Wilfully misunderstood?? It's not necessarily what you say but the way that you say it. I agree with much of 'where you are coming from' but not how you express it sometimes. Comes over as a bit of a tirade. Apropos Airfix: I recently succumbed to a 1/24th scale Mosquito, my Dad's second favourite plane to work on and fly in, after the Spitfire. Man is that kit huge! Which Lightning do you have? the P38 or English Electric? I built both years ago, but only 1/72, they didn't come bigger in those days. Cheers Doug 😎

Radio in a yacht by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
I would avoid using pen cells you really need rechargeable since they can deliver more current without sagging and a sail winch when pulling in a sail can require quite a bit. The function/channel bit gets me also I remember when you needed 2 channels per surface ( leave out single channel) back when reed was the norm. Early propo systems used function because 4 function was the equivalent of an 8 channel reed setup.( actually 12 channel since it included trims). It now seems that function has been replaced with channel just cos.

Radio in a yacht by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi all, Whilst I can make almost anything, I have absolutely no idea how to install modern R/C gear in a model, much less a yacht. I have an Orange Rx which has 6 channels for some reason, but I only need 2. BTW, when did functions become channels? I grew up with proportional being 2 channels per function. Anyway, that's a 2.4 doodah. I have a GWS sail winch a drum jobbie. I also have a few different servos for the rudder, but I don't know what voltage they are. I will stuff 4 pen cells in a holder and therefore get 4.8 volts, is that right? This will all fit a treat on a removable piece of ply which I can secure with a slider at one end and a wingnut at tother. Said ply with all gear will slide through the main companionway with that item removed. So, how do I know which servos will work for steering? Will they work with a 2.4 Gg set? Or must I buy new? Will the Rx be OK sited near the battery pack and servos? And how the hell does one "bind" the Tx to the Rx? I've had the Tx for 3 years and it ain't yet out of its box. It's a Spektrum Dx5e. I'm using NiMhs in the battery pack as I don't understand LiPos and will only be using the yacht occasionally. And I can charge NiMhs with a wall charger. I have fancy metallic blue thing that does everything, but the Chenglish instructions defeated me, so it hasn't been out of its box either. (Get the impression I ain't big on working models, folks?) Any info/instructions/encouragement gratefully recieved. And anything helpful about rigging the damned thing under the deck is welcome too! No idea where to start there. I have very limited space through companionways and deck lights which are all removable, but smallish, if evenly spaced. Cheers, Martin

It's a sad day!. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
I think one of the mistakes people make is to assume that they must run their models with others of a similar ilk. That rather means a club of some sort. I say organise a loose grouping and find a river. You can buy a little dinghy/outboard combo for very cheap as a rescue boat if you can't get to the sides all round. Since the river will have diesel and petrol boats on it, you're fine. Canal Locks can be ideal and many (most) are not manned by any pretence at a Jobswuff. Some rivers have no speed limit sections, such as the River Nene and, last I looked, the Yare. So join in. There's nothing sacrosanct about model boat ponds and anyway if the Council Nazis have decided No IC, they are no longer model boat ponds, since that was all there was at one time. I ran a model boat display on the Well Creek in the Fens a few years back and we had no other than the famous AMPS man, Miller Agnew,with his Rossi powered outboards on his gorgeous tunnel hulls, models of real F1 powerboats. He came with the Cambridge club whose secretary made a point at day's end of thanking me for asking them. They had never run on a river before and all loved it. They had R/C water skiing, racing, you name it and all thoroughly enjoyed it. In the end the Police had to move the traffic on the main road opposite who had stopped to watch. A Rossi powered F1 at full chat on a river only 20 feet wide is something to see. Apparently Mr. Agnew was heard to say that "this is proper model boating". So, go rivers, young man. My, we'll be running out of middle fingers in no time! Martin

Sea Commander restoration tips by AndyG009 Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
I think the three windows looks much better than the one big one. Wonder why it changed ? Cost - unlikely the difference can only be minimal. Though the bigger window at the front is likely cheaper than the three porthole in the Sea Queen. Does anyone know why the Commander has the 'spray deflector' (don't know proper name) on the front cabin, and the Queen does not ?

Sea Queen prop shaft by AndyG009 Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
Thanks for the advice M Turpin (don't know any more than that), I am with you on that, I worked out that I actually needed about 500 mm length. So will thread the one end (actually less thread than the one supplied) then fit - measure - measure then cut. Sidley70 - I think I would have been tempted to remove the old shaft (the outer tube) and fit a new one. I suppose it depends on how well the original is fitted. Having removed one many years ago from a boat. My method was to have a reasonable size piece of steel drill and tap to the size of the old prop shaft, fit to shaft - this holds the piece at the end of the shaft - the basically give it a bash with a hammer - now in my case it came loose and then by swapping round and bashing from the inside, I got the shaft free enough to clamp a mole wrench on and 'wiggle' it out. Not very scientific, but it worked for me - no guarantees though. Good Luck

Sea Queen prop shaft by sidley70 Petty Officer   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Andy I have been working on a barn find old Sea Queen kit in very poor condition. The restoration required fitting a 5mm prop shaft as the old shaft supplied was a little short, I ordered a new 5mm shaft 19inches long from Model Boat Bits uk and when I tried to fit it it would not fit. Not realising the old shaft was 3/16inch. I had to ream the bushes to take the new shaft of 5mm. this proved a little difficult as the shaft was already fitted. I finally did it and everything works as expected. Fitting the motor which is a 700 ?. The shaft was 1/4 inch diameter. Boring out the brass insert did not leave much meat and I am hoping it does does not let go under power. So far so good. I hope there is some info there that you can use. Regards Sid

It's a sad day!. by stormin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
Ian, I thought all ED where compression ignition (diesel) so not sure what yours could be. I still have a seagull (1cc) hunter (2.5cc) and a sea otter (3.5cc) I believe that the sea otter was the only engine ED made specifically for use in boats (water cooled) because the flywheel was at the opposite end of the crank eliminating the need to thread your starter cord under your prop shaft and u.j. Norman.

It's a sad day!. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Oliver Tiger and Gannet? Oh be still my beating heart! I remember seeing a Gannet and a Channel Island Special at Victoria when I was a kid with my Dad. Even he was impressed. And Olive Cockman had a Westbury Seal she'd built herself and fitted in a large cruiser, which she used for straight running and steering, where you nominated a spot on the lake side and set off your model with a fixed rudder. The nearer you got to your nominated spot the more points you got. Never hear of it these days. R/C doesn't appeal to me apart from steering a yacht, although free-sailing is still appealing to me. I have engines, but I haven't got any in a boat as I could never get the things to start. I just like having them around and running them screwed to an outbuilding, when they'll run! I can't be doing with all the fuss of LiPos and charging them properly. Too expensive, so it's NiMhs for me, charged in a wall charger. but it's really building stuff I like to do. Martin

It's a sad day!. by Novagsi0 Captain   Posted: 6 days ago
This gets my goat. My boat had a Kawasaki lawn mower engine in it 26cc. It was no louder than a Flymo from where It came from(a lawn mower), in fact I was actually a bit quitter because it had a proper tuned exhaust. The Ban on IC means I cannot use it. The petrol issue now means the pool weeds up every year, because of the lack of nitrates going in the water so no body can use it. The weed means all the small fish are also gone that we use to catch as kids using rock pool nets when the power boats were bombing around, becuase the weed takes all the oxygen out the water killing the fish. When the pool weeds up no body can use it!!! Kept the boat for memory sake, and I too have a draw of retired engines and have to resort to opening my tool box for the smell of 40% glow fuel. Engine attached 9 years work and will never go into the boat I believe now. Are we going to ban petrol Lawn mowers in the future same as the flymo boat. Video on youtube Also before the green squad suggest about the wild life, they periodiocally shoot the canadian foreigners on our water to keep the numbers down civil.

Sea Queen prop shaft by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
I suggest you thread the end of the 600mm bar and don't cut it to length first, so hopefully not, but if it does go wrong you can just cut the end off and start again. I always do the most complicated job on a piece of work so if it does go wrong you haven't wasted any time on other processes.

Sea Queen prop shaft by AndyG009 Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
Obtained a length of Stainless Steel 600 mm long 5 mm diameter (it is slightly greater diameter than the Raboesch bearings), used 400 wet and dry - couple (or three) rubs - check - repeat, actually it took some time but now fits, only one end, as the prop end fits the bearing. Still have to put a thread on it, will take mturpin's advice. I only actually needed a shaft about 60 mm longer than the Raboesch. One thing I forgot to mention is the fact that when I decided to up size to a 5 mm shaft, and the Raboesch maintenance free, is that the outer tube did fit the pre-made hole in the keel but there was no movement for adjustment. Making that hole larger was one of the most difficult bits up to now. Had to make - what I would call a prop shaft hole enlarger - bit of a bodge but it worked.