Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play

Help Support This Website
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.

£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team

Donation History
May 2017: 5 people
April 2017: 23 people
March 2017: 9 people
February 2017: 12 people
January 2017: 37 people
December 2016: 2 people
November 2016: 2 people
October 2016: 8 people
September 2016: 2 people

Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy

Model Boats Website
Active Users (11)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > prop

Pics of running gear and skins by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 hours ago
The pic posted by Inkoust says it all really. The original Aerokits and many other models from the 1960s all had steep angled propshafts. This was necessary to allow for the large IC engines fitted. Modern electric motors do not require the same depth inside the hull so the prop shaft can be mounted at a much lesser angle, producing a faster and more controllable model. It would be relatively easy to alter your set-up before you add the rest of the skins. Even with a 50mm prop there is still about an inch to lose. I appreciate this may not be your first choice but believe the end result will justify the effort Dave

Slowly does it. by fid2b Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 hours ago
All getting involved now! I suspect it looks worse in the pictures because the prop thrust will definitely pass over the rudder although perhaps not ideally. And I don't have a cardan shaft, just a uj because as I said, simple appealled for a part time hobby as this is to me. My aim was to see if I could form the wooden hull like my Dad did on the fireboat cos I always admired the shape but of course I would like to finish the job eventually 😀

Slowly does it. by fid2b Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 hours ago
Ah well, thanks for that! I think you and Sonar are quite right, and no doubt better qualified to comment. Certainly the motor could be lower but I hesitated about moving it forward because of the weight distribution which I thought would be better at least halfway or more aft. As for prop sizes, again I am largely guessing what might work, on the fireboat I have a fifty mm z two blade which seems to work well without the motor getting hot but that has a slower, torquey motor, so smaller will probably be appropriate with the 750s. In truth I'll leave it as it is until I can trial it, probably a few years away, and if it is a disaster then I can still change it then😉

Slowly does it. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 hours ago
I would say you've achieved your main objective magnificently 👍 The hull is looking really good. But the shaft angle is maybe 3 times the optimum, based on looking at my Aerokits Sea Scout layout and Sonar's advice! Looks like there is plenty of scope in the hull to mount the motor further forward and much deeper and still be able to fit a pretty large prop. But bigger isn't always better! Not really my expertise but would guess with 50mm you risk overloading the motor!? I'm sure the experts here can advise you better on that than I. You may also find the boat more responsive to the rudder if the prop thrust is directed at the rudder instead of more below it as it seems to be now? Cheers Doug 😎

Slowly does it. by fid2b Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 11 hours ago
Mines a bit more than that! In all truth I am no a boat designer so I just look at things in a practical way and while I absolutely agree with what you are saying I also know the old fireboat works ok for me. The other thing I wonder is with a short, light at the bow boat and all the weight aft of the centre could the prop thrust tend to lift the whole boat as much as push the front down? Like I say, just thinking aloud rather than speaking from experience!

Slowly does it. by sonar Admiral   Posted: 11 hours ago
lower the motor mounting as close as you can to the bottom of the hull making sure the propellor does not touch the underside of the external hull if this makes sense

Slowly does it. by fid2b Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 11 hours ago
I would tend to agree! The more it pushes forward the better of course. But I largely copied my 36" fireboat and to get the prop dia options up to about 50mm it needs quite a angle. I didn't want to complicate the drive line either as my main interest was in forming the hull, just to see if I could really. I suppose the proof will be in the sailing!

Slowly does it. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 hours ago
Hi, Prop shaft seems, to my eyes, to be at a very steep angle! Would have thought it reduces forward thrust and / or tends to push the bow down. Is this normal for this type of boat? Maybe I'm just more used to displacement hulls, destroyers etc. Cheers Doug 😎

Slowly does it. by fid2b Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 22 hours ago
After a long pause I am as far as propshaft, motor and rudder installation. I need a servo next but spent all my pocket money climbing a mountain in Wales this month. It was good but wet. The motor lives on the usual alloy bracket, screwed to two wooden plinths made from strip laminated with araldite. It's all standard stuff but making it this way allowed me to shim the height correctly, the strip being about 1.5mm thick. I'll post some pics if I can work out the Google drive thing but you will also see that the lower skins are on and after the servo installation I can think about the upper hull skins and then the superstructure. All good stuff😀.

Steering wheel by Midlife306 Commander   Posted: 1 day ago
This was quite easy to be fair, I just pushed the Milliput into the gap in the blue foam & left it a couple of days to go properly off. I then pulled it from the blue foam, sanded it flat as possible & chamfered all 4 corners with a file, then it was just a case of sanding the profile round. For added realism I used a small sanding drum in the Dremil to add the indentations on the back edge. I drew out the centre & spokes on some plastic card & cut the shape out on the hot wire cutter, a quick going over with a file & then I noticed on the picture that there was a slight dish on the wheel, to replicate it I pencil marked where the bends needed to be & offered the back of the spokes upto but not touching the hot wire cutter, this put the heat in the right position to allow me to bend it. I then superglued it all together. Took me a couple of hours start to finish. I've a bit more detail to add before I paint it, I'm going to have a go at distressing the paint so you can see silver under the black as in the pic. I think Milliput is awesome stuff, it's the next step down from a 3D printer I guess. Cheers Wayne

Rivet spacing by Midlife306 Commander   Posted: 2 days ago
Ohh how I wish I had some proper machinery 🤔 I've got some square brass tube that I need to put some accurate slots into, no way I can cut them at home so once I've decided exactly what I want I'll take it into work with a box of sweeties, wink wink. The blue foam is used as wall insulation, if you can't find it in a diy store I'd hope any decent aero modelling shop would carry it. Cheers Wayne

3D printing by Midlife306 Commander   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi, I'm looking at getting a 3D printer. I've found an online community called thingiverse on there there are thousands of model boat parts, from propellers right through to full boats. Is there anyone else that uses this resource? Cheers Wayne

Worcester Model Boat Club Open Day by cormorant Captain   Posted: 3 days ago
Yes, but are you attending? Please tick the appropriate box top right hand corner of first post if you are.

Brushless in or out by canabus Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Sonar I have used both in boats and with no watercooling. No problems with both types. The in runners are good for replacing brush motors as the 35mm brushless motor are the same bolt holes as the 540 brush motors. My first brushless was a Trackstar 17T 2400kv into an old rc car, 90watts to 550 watts, turn it into an insane rocket. The main brushless motors we use in the boating club are Hobbyking 3639 750 and 1100kv, 3648 1450kv and the outrunner D3548 1100kv with a 2 blade 40-50mm props. ESC's are the car 60 and 100 amp which handle 2S to 4S Lipo batteries.

Brushless in or out by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Sonar Inrunner brushless have an outer case which remains static just like a brushed motor. Outrunner brushless have an outer case that revolves around the central core which remains static. The revolving outrunner case forms a flywheel which is beneficial when driving a model boat prop where the water resistance is greater than a plane propeller in air. The effect lessens with larger motors used say for fast speed boats. Doug That link appears to be to a file somewhere but there is no url. Dave