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>> Home > Tags > prop

prop
prop
Prop Shaft Grease by robhenry Seaman   Posted: 5 hours ago
Hi. I have always used molybnedenum disuphide grease made up to a thin creamy consistency with "3 in 1 oil" or similar. This has worked well on fast electrics, fast scale boats etc.

Prop Shaft Grease by Trillium Commander   Posted: 1 day ago
Hi Dave, I guess I have not run my models long enough yet since I have had no wear in either shafts, bearings or seals. I did have one seal in a Raboesch assembly, in a twin shaft model, which didn't leak but seemed to be deteriorating. Raboesch supplied a replacement free of charge. I had used Goop adhesive to attach the seal/bearing cap so it was a 5 minute job to soften the adhesive with a heat gun and fit the replacement. Roy

Prop Shaft Grease by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Hi Roy I agree well made prop shafts such as supplied by Raboesch are excellent. Personally I make my own to scale and length as I have the materials and lathes with which to fabricate them. My experience over many years is that over time the bearings and shafts wear and will require replacing at some time. I have used oiling tubes and stuffing boxes for best results, the latter make small leak repairs simple, but if the prop end bearing has worn it needs replacing. Our last club sailing waters were saline and I had to replace the bearings in all the models I sailed there. I used to wash the model hulls after every sail but it didn't help. I use a thick oil in the tubes.

Prop Shaft Grease by ChrisF Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 days ago
Yes, I've bought them for my first two builds and won't be using anything else. Chris

Prop Shaft Grease by Trillium Commander   Posted: 2 days ago
Every time I see a post about lubricating a prop shaft I wonder why more people don't used sealed prop shafts, such as those made by Raboesch and others. It's clearly not an option if your model has the prop shaft already in place but for new construction it's a case of 'fit and forget'. I have not used anything else, ever. Is the extra cost the only disincentive to their universal adoption? Roy

Prop Shaft Grease by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Please ,please,please DO NOT use copaslip or any other grease containing metal particles .It promotes wear on bearing surfaces and in bearing races. It is meant to be used as a non seize assembly grease, not for faces rubbing against each other. When it first came out I was in the motor trade and we like lots of other workshops thought it would be great for things like clutch release bearings. However we found to our cost that it actually promoted wear and we had to dismantle the thing and clean off the Copaslip from everywhere and replace both the bush in the shaft end the bearing and the clutch .A notice in big letters was put up on the grease cabinet.DO NOT USE GREASE CONTAINING METAL PARTICLES ON MOVING PARTS> IF YOU DO YOU BEAR THE COST OF LABOUR, PARTS,etc TO RECTIFY ANY DAMAGE resulting from this. Chief Engineer .👍😱 I would use the very soft water resisting white grease and oil.Grease nipple each end and oiler in the middle. A little grease each end and a dribble of oil in the middle.Only a little of each.

Prop Shaft Grease by Bryan-the-pirate Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
Thankyou Boaty and Dave, that helps a lot.👍

Clyde Puffer by Ballast Captain   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi Everyone. My next build is a Clyde Puffer in the guise of Auld Reekie/Vital Spark ! I am starting with a 1/24 Scale GRP Hull from Orion Mouldings. I am in need of a bit of forward planning assistance so if anyone has built from the same hull or very similar I would be grateful for some input as regards size of electric motor length of shaft and prop size and anything else that could be of help to me. This is only my second build so I am still, very much a rookie !!! Alan.

Prop Shaft Grease by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
I would add that it is important that you also have a thrust washer at each end of the propshaft. We used to use Rizla cigarette papers to gauge the clearance.

Prop Shaft Grease by boaty Commander   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Bryan Best way to remove the propshaft is to undo the universal joint at the top then slide the shaft out through the stern tube . Sometimes this may be difficult if the rudder gets in the way. If you remove the prop there is a good chance you can extract the shaft without too much difficulty but be careful not to bend the shaft. Referring to the latter it is advisable to remove the rudder but on some occasions I have bent the rudder slightly though there is an element of risk in this as the rudder has to be realigned. When reassembling the shaft and universal coupling check that after fitting the prop there is adequate clearance between the prop hub and the stern tube and the same with the coupling so the assembly can rotate freely without rubbing against the tube . Regards Boaty😊

Prop Shaft Grease by Bryan-the-pirate Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
How do you get a prop shaft apart? is it undoing the universal joint then the top nut or do you have to remove the prop?

Thames sailing barge Capricorn by tomarack Commander   Posted: 5 days ago
Sport - camera test. I cannot find proper video format..so .. https://youtu.be/eCSJm78fgV0

Tsb Capricorn by tomarack Commander   Posted: 5 days ago
Sport - camera test. I cannot find proper video format..so .. https://youtu.be/eCSJm78fgV0

M5 Prop Shaft by Mzee Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 6 days ago
Well, I am 83+ and use the Internet extensively - been making models of all sorts (and that includes topographic and architecture models) since I was about 10 :-). Must add that Cornwall Model Boats is the tops - great range of everything and speedy, reliable service.

M5 Prop Shaft by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi John, train shops are common because of a lot of people buying trains track etc, lot of clubs making layouts. Planes are a different story, expensive and breakable so model shops cater for the most popular buyers, (they spend a lot!!!) boats on the other hand don't usually break, sinking is not usually a permanent problem, so little to replace, so poor sales, no demand. Hope your opp goes well and you can get down to the water again Mark