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>> Home > Tags > prop

prop
prop
Which motor by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 hours ago
Hi Neil I have a 49inch tug which uses a 540 motor with 2.5 to 1 reduction box. 3inch 4 blade prop, On 12 volts pushes along nicely and with a 7amp hour battery gives about 2 hours sailing, total sailing weight is 21 kilos. Cheers Colin.

Which motor by Helineil Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 7 hours ago
Could someone advise on which motor to use in a smit amsterdam tug of approx 40 ins long with a 4 blade 3 ins dia. Prop and 4 mm. shaft, I want to run on 12v sealed lead acid battery. I am not going to tow anything but would still like a bit of power. Cheers. Neil.

Hull Pt2: Motorisation - Come What May!! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 hours ago
As promised (or threatened?😁) stage two of the hull work and thoughts on motorisation. The hull was sprayed with two coats of grey primer/filler. Pic1. As usual this showed up the remaining imperfections (pics 2 & 3), but I'm not going to worry about them until I've got prop shaft tube and rudder stock sorted out and permanently fitted 😉 After my attempts to make and thread a 3mm prop shaft went awry Martin (Westway the Mechanicals Master👍) stepped in and made me a decent one complete with a bushed stuffing tube 👍 Vielen Dank Meister😊 I did however manage to make a 4mm to 3mm reducer so that I could fit a Rabeosch 35mm prop as seen in pics 2 & 3. The tube and shaft from Martin, arrived Saturday an' he only made it on Monday😊, have been dry fitted so that I can start setting up the gears, necessary to bring the drive down to the prop shaft fitted very low down in the hull, and motor mount. Pic 4. Motorisation: (Remember folks - this kit was designed and built as a static model!) I want to use the old 1950s Taycol Target motor which my Dad originally fitted in the Sea Scout which I have renovated and upgraded to brushless. See Build blog 'Sea Scout - Jessica' Many of you will know that the Taycol motors were field coil motors, meaning that they have no permanent magnet around the rotor coil, and thus reversing the battery connections to the brushes had no effect on the direction of rotation, as this simply reversed the magnetic fields of both stator and rotor coils🤔 To counteract this so that the motor could be used in both forward and reverse with a conventional brushed ESC I modified the motor slightly (separated the two coils) and built a simple converter board to connect it to the ESC. Again see the Sea Scout blog for the details of the conversion. Basically; once the field coil and brush-gear (rotor coil) have been separated a simple diode bridge can be used to apply the output of the ESC to the motor. This enables the reversal of EITHER field OR rotor coil polarity, depending on how you connect the converter to the motor. Thus reversing the direction of rotation of the motor. Beneficial side effect is that the diodes also suppress the commutator sparking😊 In my case, with the Taycol Target, I also cleaned, flattened and polished the commutator. Thus significantly reducing the potential for spark generation in the first place! A peculiarity of the Taycol motors is that they all use metal brushes, pressed phosphor bronze strip, so they need oiling! DO NOT oil conventional brushed motors with carbon brushes unless the brushes are exchangeable or you want to have to buy a new motor!!!!! Pics 5 & 6 show the proposed position of the Taycol in Gina 2 and pic 7 the prototype converter board I knocked up to test the motor, together with a Graupner Navy V30R Marine Brushed ESC. Details and results in the Sea Scout blog, including video of the sparks and oscilloscope pics of the drive waveforms before and after conversion! The latter showing the spark suppression effect of the converter😊 Some samples attached - last 3 pics. Pic 8 pic shows a more compact version of the converter, one of a few types I'm doing for Martin's various Taycols as a trade for the prop shaft he made for me and some useful material he sent. Thanks mate👍 Next steps will be 1) mounting the gears correctly on the shafts, requiring the manufacture of a 3/32" to 4mm adaptor and a 1/8" to 4mm adaptor, and keying them to the shafts - Hooray for mini milling machines 😉 2) manufacturing bushed end plates to hold the gears in place, 3) fitting the motor mounting platform. I'll probably borrow from my experiences of real shipbuilding and do this as a suspended 'false floor', i.e. mounted on stiff springs to enable adjustments to optimise the gearing mesh! On real naval ships this is done to improve shock resistance and to minimise engine noise / vibration conduction to the hull, thus significantly reducing the acoustic signature of the ship. Not that I'm tooo worried about being torpedoed 😁 Worth a try😉 Pic 9 shows the cleaned up and renovated Taycol Target motor. Pic 10 shows the drive waveform complete with sparks before modification.🤔 Pic 11 the cleaned 'forward' waveform with the converter board. Pic 12 the cleaned 'reverse' waveform, no suppression capacitors needed 😉 More soon folks, Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Along the way a new keel was fitted as can be seen in pics 1 to 3. The original builder had 'buried' the keel in the hull planking! 😲

Gina 2 Billing Boats Fish Cutter - Restoration & Conversion by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 hours ago
Evenin' Mike, guess you're right 🤔 Bit of a departure for me I admit, and after I'd cleaned all the crud off and realised how shoddy and weak the hull was I wondered if I'd bitten off more than I can chew😲 However progress has been made😊 I hate to be beaten! See next update 'Motorisation - Come What May!' You'll recognise the topic from the discussion on dies and threading silver steel prop shafts😉 I'm multiplexing this project with a PTB renovation and refit! Like most boat modellers 'a glutton for punishment'. Cheers, Doug 😎

Motor upgrade by Nobby-Clark Petty Officer   Posted: 1 day ago
Guys, hi I came down to hartsholme today to trial run the build and was made extremely welcome thanks greatly. Er motor widthThe motors are T4A from mobile marine they were extremely hot so prop size adjustment is needed. I am building again this time an inshore mine sweeper I have 50 mm graupner props on at the moment and am looking for a pair of motors to run off 12v LAB with 15 amp speed controllers per motor but cooler with out going to big I have 50mm per motor width allowance and 70mm length. I would like to keep up speed as inshore sweepers were fairly nippy 20knots real time. Is there any recommendations please ,apart from rebuild again. Regards Nobby

Surface Drive by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
Hi Andy, you could start here😉 https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/ style='background-color:yellow;'>propellers_surface.html Tips n tricks- https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2198551-How-t... It's the prop that makes the difference. Cheers, Doug 😎

Surface Drive by AndyG009 Lieutenant   Posted: 1 day ago
In model boats Surface Drive. How does this work ? Who makes units (that work) ? What type of Propellers are used ? How are they steered ?

Cabin roofs by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Theoretically this should be a very straight forward process and a change from rubbing down the hull so let’s look at the instructions – what instructions! First of all fit some thin card to the sides of the cabin walls to allow for a clearance fit (cornflakes packet) then some minor trimming of the spars to give an exact ,(not tight) fit across the side supports, I decided to pin each of the parts together as well as epoxy in the joints. I always find the best approach is to use a jig to drill pilot holes for the pins ensuring that the pins do not split the wood and the construction is accurate. The frame is then glued up and placed back in the boat and left to dry next job is to fit the corner strengthening pieces, the easiest way I found was to put a card support for the corners to rest on whilst they set still in the cabin structure. Looking forward I had decided to retain the cabin lids with Neodymium magnets so I machined a slot in the corner pieces underside to house the magnets, to be fitted at a later date. Next job is to fit the roof skins which again will be pinned using the 0.7mm brass pins. The roof skins are now epoxied in place so I need to mark out the position of the secondary panels. Looking at the pieces and the instructions the spacer frames seem to be the same size but I was sure I’d read somewhere that these overhung by 2-3mm, reading Robs blog conformed this to be the case. So some trimming required before fitting and marking out the appropriate position then being glued into position. The mid cabin was assembled in exactly the same way

BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Doug, Certainly having fun and gaining more appreciation for the various drivetrain combinations available to us. My objective for this summer is to get a combination, using all three shafts, that works properly at all speeds. This coming winter will refine by using items such as you recommend. That item would help, so will keep the details on one side. The program would be assisted enormously if a supplier (located in Hong Kong) was able to meet back-order commitments!

Longer run time by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Your question does not have simple answers have you used a watt meter to see the current your motor is drawing at full throttle? With any installation its a good idea to do that test since its a good way to match motor and prop. LiPo batteries have a better current delivery than lead acid BUT you do need to be careful about end voltages so as not to damage the battery. Many ESC have a voltage cut off built in to protect LiPo batteries it may be your hitting that limit with your lead acid battery. The simplest solution to your problem is to look at the Amp/hour rating of your existing battery and get something with a higher rating. Going LiPo can give a much higher rating with a LOT less weight. The downside being the need for a special charger and the need to be careful about storage and end point voltages. As to putting 2 batteries in series to get a higher voltage yes you can BUT increasing the voltage to a brushless motor requires you match the prop to the new voltage running on the existing prop will probably cook the motor. How hot is your brushless running now? Outrunners generally can swing a bigger prop than inrunners.

Windows, stoopid question. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Agree Martin, I thought you previously meant hassle with purchasing from Germany! Maybe the cutting takes two minutes but the setting up longer and at the end you've expended two or three not exactly cheap cutting discs🤔 Like Mike I also find the discs useful for accurate cuts in thin sheet material; mostly non ferrous metals and plastic. But not in hardened machine tool steel! Check the spindle threads on you 'Lidl' drills. You might find (like I did) that it's the same as the Proxxon so you can get a spare chuck from Proxxon to fit!😉 Did the same with my mini milling machine as it also came with a collet set. Have ordered from Tracy dies with slits and dimples 😊 Strangely on their site the die diameter wasn't given but they answered my mail query by return so I also ordered the appropriate die holder / wrench. Cheers, Doug 😎

Windows, stoopid question. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Good tip Mike 👍 thanks. What hassle Martin? Reichelt are on my side of the channel and the delivery is much cheaper😉 Could use an angle grinder for other jobs too, but not the huge things in most DIY stores. Will check what Reichelt has. As for Dremel; recently bought a set of their Speed-Clic cutting, sanding and polishing attachments. Amongst them were a couple of diamond tipped metal discs. Haven't tried 'em yet though. Anyway new proper cutting dies and a decent holder, + tail-stock die holder are on their way from Tracy. So I should be armed for the next task in this area - threading the 4 shafts on my Belfast 😊 Cheers, Doug 😎

Fitting Propshafts by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Was just pullin' your chain a little 😁 Sorry🤔 I'll do a quick measure up for the cutter 😉

Fitting Propshafts by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Rather than a model of a rope making machine, Doug, this is a machine for making model rope. Always wanted one, in case I ever make that marvellous wooden ship model. Martin

Fitting Propshafts by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Interesting! Didn't know there is a market for such models 😁