Amati Italian Runabout 1970 RC - I have been building models for years but this is my first attempt at RC. I was initially going to buy the RC kit from Amati but it is not available. I have purchased 2 motors and am now wondering what sort of prop shafts and what size propellers to use. The motors I bought are direct drive so there is no reduction gear.
Some info. on radar, armament and wartime mods! 'Ya pays ya money and yer takes yer choice'! 😎 "Armament, electronics and protection The main armament of the Illustrious class consisted of sixteen quick-firing (QF) 4.5-inch (110 mm) dual-purpose guns in eight twin-gun turrets, four in sponsons on each side of the hull. The roofs of the gun turrets protruded above the level of the flight deck to allow them to fire across the deck at high elevations. The gun had a maximum range of 20,760 yards (18,980 m). Her light anti-aircraft defences included six octuple mounts for QF 2-pounder ("pom-pom") anti-aircraft (AA) guns, two each fore and aft of the island and two in sponsons on the port side of the hull. The 2-pounder gun had a maximum range of 6,800 yards (6,200 m). The completion of Illustrious was delayed two months to fit her with a Type 79Z early-warning radar; she was the first aircraft carrier in the world to be fitted with radar before completion. This version of the radar had separate transmitting and receiving antennas which required a new mainmast to be added to the aft end of the island to mount the transmitter. The Illustrious-class ships had a flight deck protected by 3 inches (76 mm) of armour and the internal sides and ends of the hangars were 4.5 inches (114 mm) thick. The hangar deck itself was 2.5 inches (64 mm) thick and extended the full width of the ship to meet the top of the 4.5-inch waterline armour belt. The belt was closed by 2.5-inch transverse bulkheads fore and aft. The underwater defence system was a layered system of liquid- and air-filled compartments backed by a 1.5-inch (38 mm) splinter bulkhead. Wartime modifications While under repair in 1941, Illustrious's rear "round-down" was flattened to increase the usable length of the flight deck to 670 feet (204.2 m). This increased her aircraft complement to 41 aircraft by use of a permanent deck park. Her light AA armament was also augmented by the addition of 10 Oerlikon 20 mm autocannon in single mounts with a maximum range of 4,800 yards (4,400 m). In addition the two steel fire curtains in the hangar were replaced by asbestos ones. After her return to the UK later that year, her Type 79Z radar was replaced by a Type 281 system and a Type 285 gunnery radar was mounted on one of the main fire-control directors. The additional crewmen, maintenance personnel and facilities needed to support these aircraft, weapons and sensors increased her complement to 1,326. During her 1943 refits, the flight deck was modified to extend its usable length to 740 feet (225.6 m), and "outriggers" were probably added at this time. These were 'U'-shaped beams that extended from the side of the flight deck into which aircraft tailwheels were placed. The aircraft were pushed back until the main wheels were near the edge of the flight deck to allow more aircraft to be stored on the deck. Twin Oerlikon mounts replaced most of the single mounts. Other twin mounts were added so that by May she had a total of eighteen twin and two single mounts. The Type 281 radar was replaced by an upgraded Type 281M, and a single-antenna Type 79M was added. Type 282 gunnery radars were added for each of the "pom-pom" directors, and the rest of the main directors were fitted with Type 285 radars. A Type 272 target-indicator radar was mounted above her bridge. These changes increased her aircraft capacity to 57 and caused her crew to grow to 1,831. A year later, in preparation for her service against the Japanese in the Pacific, one starboard octuple "pom-pom" mount, directly abaft the island, was replaced by two 40 mm Bofors AA guns; which had a maximum range of 10,750 yards (9,830 m). Two more twin Oerlikon mounts were added, and her boilers were retubed. At this time her complement was 1,997 officers and enlisted men. By 1945, accumulated wear-and-tear as well as undiagnosed shock damage to Illustrious's machinery caused severe vibrations in her centre propeller shaft at high speeds. In an effort to cure the problem, the propeller was removed, and the shaft was locked in place in February; these radical measures succeeded in reducing, but not eliminating, the vibrations and reduced the ship's speed to about 24 knots (44 km/h; 28 mph).["
Built in 1981 and the cabin superstructure refurbished a couple of years ago. The original motors are 2 decaperms that are getting very hot now. Brushes changed in one of them which now seems to be lazy. It is now time to change these for a more modern type of motor. Because of the distanse from the hull to the middle of the shaft a 850 straight shaft to propeller shaft will not fit. I've decided to fit 2 bearing blocks to the underside of the mount and fix a pulley gearbox to the prop shaft. The decaperms where 2.75:1. What would be the best ratio for my new setup? olly49
Thank you, AllenA! Well, no science behind the running time. As long as I run at low speeds it just happens everything seems fine. But when I put the throttle down... then all is over within 15 minutes or so. I pretty much stick to the same power layout. 540 motors with 30A controllers, 2000 or higher mAh capacity and 35mm or 40mm props and 4mm shafts. Dirty Deeds is a bit special. I was on my learning curve (I'm still there!) so due to a novice error I used a 2mm shaft so I had to get a special propeller and a big mean battery (kind of a Viagra approach). So, I had a 4-bladed 35mm propeller bored for the 2mm shaft and a 10.8v 4000 mah battery pack. A bit in the heavy side but it gave the boat nice stability. I can achieve better running time with Lipos, but I'm an old-fashioned guy still concerned with the maintenance Lipos involve and do appreciate a bit more of the weight offered by NIHMs, not to mention I'm a cheap guy (LOL). Something that really worked for me is the choice of propellers. I noticed a remarkable run-time difference between plastic and metal (yes, more expensive) propellers, but it is well-spent money. Other boats I have run with 9.8v 2000 mAH batteries achieving almost 50 min at low speeds, which is OK with some of my models for realistic ride purposes. Here I have my two "inspirational" pics.
1 JUL 17 - Using a borrowed Lisa M yacht hull made by German manufacturer Krick and the cockpit of a scratch built I made earlier (now defunct), I'm now working on this new vessel. For no logic reason, I decided to use Jamaican Rasta culture for inspirational purposes. Just something different for may flotilla. Water tested with a 30A Mtroniks "Tio" controller, a 500-series motor, a 10.8 NIHM battery and a 40mm propeller. A winning combination for this boat. I added spray rails and just painted the hull in yellow
this is a copy of the a plan. I was told ages ago, by someone who knew a crewmember, the side legs of the mast where made from aeroplane propeller blades. Nice story, dont know how true it is, but they do very much resemble the same profile, so I like to believe it!😉
Model kit made on or about 1969 by defunct German firm Robbe based upon Chris Craft Roamer motor yachts of the era. Hull appears to be inspired on 1950s Chris Craft Constellation series. Model tried to emulate a 46 feet version. I got this one half-built and adapted as a gift for my child inspired in the "My Little Pony" characters. Approx. 1/20 scale. Authentic Chris Craft Roamer 46 measured 46 x 15 feet. It runs with a 4-bladed 40mm metal propeller, 320A 7.2V-16V ESC 30A constant, a NiMH 9.6v battery, and a Mabuchi 540 Motor.
With my boats getting routinely stranded in the middle of nowhere, I felt compelled to commission a rescue vessel and "Triton" was born. "Triton" is a Springer-type tug push boat. With a hull and superstructure consisting of an “Indiana” style command cabin, it was built using a pretty basic birch plywood American kit designed for swimming pool water polo. Kit altered to resemble a fictitious Salvamento Marítimo (Spanish Coast Guard) unit following Salvamento Marítimo’s actual boat markings. Equipment and deck layout inspired on actual Springer tug push boats supporting larger vessels and barges found in US and European ports and rivers. Model built during September – October 2015. Approx. 1/18 scale. Real life boat could be a 30-footer (9.14m) vessel. Equipped with 9v LED navigation lights and sound system. Powered by an HPI Racing 1145 Gt 550 Motor, NiMH 7.4v battery, a 3-bladed 44mm propeller, and a 6-12V 320A RC Ship & Boat R/C Hobby Brushed Motor Speed Controller.
Altered Krick Lisa M model kit seeking realism. Inspired on 1970s 40, 42 and 43 Hatteras, Uniflite and Viking Double Cabin American yachts. 9v LED navigation lights system. Approx. 1/20 scale. Real life boat could be nearly 39 x 13.7 feet. Similar real-life Hatteras 40 Double Cabin yacht measured 41 x 13.7 feet. Runs with NiMH 9.4v battery, an HPI Racing 1145 Gt 550 Motor 14.4V, and a 40mm 3 blade propeller.😁
DJI Phantom 2 v2.2. Anyone fly one of these. Here are the specs of the one I am looking at. But seems due to all the bits it has to carry the total flying time is 16 mins .. Is this long enough for a general flight ? Any here are the specs DJI Phantom 2 v2.0 Fully kitted out with Live video feed to the controller, has the excellent Zenmuse H3-3D stabilised gimbal fitted and has the brilliant Gopro hero 3+ black edition included for excellent results. It has an immersion RC 600mw video transmitter fitted for long range transmission and this is fitted with a Fat shark omni directional higher gain antenna. The controller has a Flysight black pearl monitor fitted with the latest folding sunshade. As it has dual 5.8ghz recievers and 32 channels it has twin antenna mounts on top of monitor and there is a fat shark omni directional antenna to match the one on the video transmitter on the drone and also a 5 turn helical directional antenna for solid video at extended distances. The monitors inbuilt diversity reciever will auto switch between antennas to get the best signal. This comes with all original boxes and 2 sets of propellers one of which have never been out of the box. This drone has the heads up display module already fitted to give you live flight data and heading to find back to home if orientation is lost. As with all Phantoms this drone has auto return to home and land so if connection is lost it will fly back to land at its take off point. This drone includes all chargers etc so is all you need to get flying and capturing great aerial footage in a single kit. I have flown this out to 997m during testing and it is faultless in its reliability. Three flight batteries are included to keep you flying longer. This is a very capable machine that has done some epic flights. I am happy to demonstrate it flying etc as it has never been crashed or abused. So what would you think was a fair price to pay for this drone ????
[Score: 5/10] 24" TBC Single Propellor Controlled Through scratch build ESC - Comments: Scratch built loosely based on the St Chanute ,made from recycled wood the winch is made from parts of an old sewing machine the mast is copper pipe and an artists paint brush handle the rails are split pins with 1.6welding rod soldered the rigging is cord from a venetian blind dyed using Indian ink ,the only bought items were the propeller ,anchors ,paint and glue
its early on with this project, I was going to wait until its completed, but not sure when that will be, so Ill give you a sneak peak. I've been using a sound system in one of my model planes, and over time have become friendly with the guy who makes them, helping him with various things. I got thinking about the 4 foot fireboat I have, and how cool it would be to have a sound unit. So, to cut a long story short, I knew he had a plane sound with twin Merlin's for a bomber, and I use a merlin for my P51 Mustang model. After a serious amount of pestering, I got him to modify one of the 5 stock sounds on his Boat sound unit, using the twin Merlin sound from the planes. It took some work, getting rid of the propeller sound on the start up and shut down sequence. I ran it for the first time last night, but forgot to take spare batteries, and a small screwdriver to adjust the settings, so couldnt change the settings, in particular, the volume was set way too loud, losing some of the clarity of sound. This is pretty close to the real engines, which where v8 meteor, this sound is an actual recording of the v12 Merlin, its doubled up, and staggered, so you can hear the two engines running. It has start up and shut down sequence, it isn't clever enough to read reverse unfortunately. Its a speakerless system, using transducers instead of speakers, which are much louder, smaller and lighter. They rely on vibrations, they are epoxied to the hull, and the whole boat becomes the speaker! Its the first time I've done this, and its pretty new on the market for boats, planes have been going for a few years. I've realised that whilst I put them above the waterline, I didn't account for the roll of the hull, when one (there is one on either side) goes below the waterline it muffles the vibrations, and causes a funny sort of gurgling noise, ah well, like I say, its early days! Still a bit of tweaking to do, but you get the idea. Stock sounds are Turbo cat diesel, Johnson outboard, evenrude outboard, mercule v8, steam. They also have aux sounds, such as ships bell, steam whistle, horn, seagulls etc. I think on my system the Johnson is dropped in lieu of the twin merlin sound. Have a look at www.mrrcsound.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EkJUHe1tR_w
Hi cliff Now I understand. It's always interesting to see how other modellers connect their drive shafts and I hope this solution works for you. The model is looking good and the detail will certainly add to the character. As you are making most of the fittings I do hope you will keep posting your progress. Dave
Hi cliff How are you going to attach the props to the shaft? Normally if the prop shaft has a plain and threaded end, the threaded end goes to the prop with a locknut and thrust washer, The other end inside the boat has a thrust washer and a collett with grub screw(s). Dave