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Hi Andy, depends which type you have. The 300 series just have bronze and brass bushes as bearings. These will need lubricating! The data sheet (see attached) says ensure components are well greased! The 301 series have bronze and Delrin self lubricating bearings and the data sheet (see attached) says lubrication is unnecessary! All info and data downloads are here http://raboeschmodels.com/index.php/en/component/virtuemart/... style='background-color:yellow;'>propeller-shafts Cheers Doug 😎
yes still clockwork,The best improvements have been made by lightening the motor, drilling holes in everything and replacing a side plate with one made of alloy.It is just a nut on the sponson, they are adjustable for incidence.It will now plane on the sponsons "unsticking" the hull.The original was built when I was 13/14,the motor came from the family gramophone when my dad converted it to autochanger/amplifier,the wood came from the woodshed but I was short of plywood and realised the back of my wardrobe was plywood and was hidden behind clothes so when my parents were out I cut the bits I needed from it!,my mates christened it "the wardrobe".Performance is down to propeller choice and is a compromise between speed and runtime.I took it to a boating pond in a nearby town when my wife needed to visit it and a council "jobsworth" told me I was not allowed to sail it,"only yachts and electric boats on here sir"no amount of reasoning would make him change his mind and he escorted me out of the park!.
About to do some checking on my Southampton (after lunch!) Will let you know soon with pics. Wires from ESC to motors in mine are red and black! Back soon, Doug 😎 BTW: from the propeller form on mine - when going forwards the port prop turns anticlockwise and the stb. prop clockwise.
Fair enough pmdevlin I accept what you are saying, however it started as a motor not being big enough for the size of the propeller and then went on further as the shaft was 4BA not 4mm and I could not locate a smaller prop, a plain brass tube and stainless shaft has been fitted,way back in the 60's when it was first started and as I knew nothing about boats in 2015 when I finished the basic structure, I did not know that it would have been the smart thing to fit a shaft with bearings. So this is the way I am going to go, I have ordered the 850 brush motor and the adapter to fit the motor shaft to my red coupling,this I have been assured will be more than big enough to drive the prop without getting hot or needing a water jacket, if this is the case when I fit it and sail it, then result, if not I will then have to go down the path that you suggest, I have nothing to lose trying the larger motor and everything to gain if it works. By the way the batteries are all new
Hi all I have located an 850 motor and mount at Howes Models in Kiddlington not too far from where I live in Malmesbury, for £22.50 however the prop shaft is 4BA, the coupling is not a problem as I can get the insert for the larger motor to fit the existing red coupling, but I can only seem to find 4mm 40 or 45mm propellers which are a fraction bigger than the 4BA which I know will screw on but they would have a bit of a wobble on the threads and could give me an out of balance vibration, apart from drilling out the old propshaft assy and fitting a new 4mm one what else can I do? or does anyone have a old 4BA prop they can let me have?
Hi Richard, If each blade is 30mm from the shaft centre, it is a 60mm diameter propeller and is far too big for that size motor. For performance you need a larger motor say a Graupner 700 and I would still recommend a smaller propeller.
Just started my first timber model boat, will be converting it to radio controlled. Still waiting for some electronics, to turn up, motor, ESC, battery, then it will get serious. still have to source propeller and shaft when I find out motor shaft size. I've added a few photos of my barge I scratch built while waiting. It's Scotty scale and my little helper, Grandson Aiden, can't wait to see it in the water.
Another thought - The main difference between the bench and the water is the load on the system - ie increase in amps. This load may cause the reduction in signal and into failsafe? What size propellers are in use? Maybe a test with smaller props. I would also test without the BEC.
Excuse me, please -- in my case I have two brushed DC12V motors in my steamer Lulonga . I use an external HK mixer. (transmitter HKT6A V2, throttle on right stick) I control the model only with the right stick, Thr 3 canal=>forward and backward, mix with Ail 1.canal=> moving to left, or to right ) control is then very simple. I have a rudder as usual on can.4 (left stick),due to its little efficiency I use mainly right stick steering. I believe it is more simply, than tank steering. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azdS-40f_0whttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iS6F8y60BAU ...... I think a similar scheme could be used for brushless engines, even for propeller-driven models.
Whoa! Propellers are a serious 3D proposition! Not least as you can't have a threaded prop/shaft. Well, you could but it would be rat shit. Shall have to think about that one. I'm speaking from the design perspective, of course. The Machine does what it's told to do.
Hello gentlemen, Im the "Tapemeasureman" from Atlanta, Georgia, USA. A carpenter, remodeler by trade, Ive recently became interested in vintage model steam engines. It is my intention to build (at the moment) a simple hull / boat to be powered by one of my steam engines. To be more specific, a hull of repurposed, recycled sheet metal on the 18" to maybe 36" size range. It will be powered by a 1 or 2 cylinder STEAM ENGINE AND BOILER. My thinking currently is something along the lines of THE AFRICAN QUEEN, although with a more simplified hull design I can create with bought sheet aluminum, or sheet steel from recycled paint cans or some such, something fairly easy to work with, readily available and cheap. Currently I am more interested in basic function than strict detail or creating a scale replica. In short I want to build a simple working water craft to utilize one of my steam engines be it propeller or paddle wheel propelled I am open to any and all suggestions and directions as I am completely ignorant on this subject and seeking enlightenment, so any help will surely save me countless hours of the trials and errors of starting from scratch, all alone. Any help with hull patterns, alternate information resources, tips on working in the various metals will be appreciated more than you know, and will leave me forever in your debt and very grateful. Thank you in advance, hoping you are having a great day.
[Score: 8/10] 28"/700g hanley Capable of 4mph Single Propellor (3 Blade 40mm) Direct Drive to a tape drive (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 2Amp/h Batteries - Comments: scratch built stand off model of uss handley i believe cant find the plans i used to confirm the correct name, the hull is 3mm balsa for the sides covered with 1mm white card, the bottom is 5 mm balsa. scratch built propeller 3mm shaft and tube to match , scratch built propeller and rudder and fittings, the boat was painted with 4coats of enamelspray primer and 4 coats of light grey enamel with a black bottom.
I have an original Aerokits Solent powered by two Torpedo 800 brushed motors controlled by two Mtronics 25 amp brushed speed controllers. I normally use two 8.4 volt 5000 mah NiMh batteries, although I have also used two 11.i volt Lipo's. The shafts are fitted with 50mm three bladed brass propellers. The boat performs nicely on the water. My stanchions are home made from 3mm brass rod with holes drilled to take 2mm chain. The stanchions are 70mm in lenght above the deck with approx 10mm below the deck, the base of the stanchion has a suitable sized brass washer fitted where it passes into the hull, the top of the stanchion is filed to a ronded profile. Shaun