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>> Home > Tags > propeller

propeller
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propeller
Surface Drive by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi Andy, you could start here😉 https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/ style='background-color:yellow;'>propellers_surface.html Tips n tricks- https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2198551-How-t... It's the prop that makes the difference. Cheers, Doug 😎

Surface Drive by AndyG009 Lieutenant   Posted: 2 days ago
In model boats Surface Drive. How does this work ? Who makes units (that work) ? What type of Propellers are used ? How are they steered ?

BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Whilst waiting for the new motors and ESCs, reviewed videos of the vessel under power and noted that as the speed increases, the bow lifts towards a plane. However, as she gathers speed the transom flaps become effective, forcing the bow down in a cloud of spray. At this point the plane has been lost and the model becomes almost uncontrollable. Decided to temporarily ballast the hull to simulate the new motors and ESCs, then try to establish the optimum flap angle using just the centre propeller and shaft. This is the original 2838 brushless motor installation with a 30 mm propeller. With this simulated drivetrain it would also be an opportunity to determine the best battery locations for both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries. Made up an angle template with a spirit level to get the correct deck inclination with the vessel floating at rest. From this located each type of battery statically - somewhere close to the mid-point of the hull. Which also seemed as good a place to start as any! Somewhere in the research for this model found a reference to the transom flap angle. This was at a 2 degree -ve (pointing downwards) angle. Installed the 2S battery and tried the model. The bow dug in at speed. Adjusted the flap to a straight and level position and tried again. The bow still wanted to dig in, but to a reduced extent. Readjusted the angle to 2 + ve and repeated. The bow now lifted so the forefoot just cleared the water and then remained in that position. Replaced the 2S battery with the 3S. The extra power obviously increased speed and the bow lifted slightly further. The spray was deflected by the chine rails and a level plane established. The conclusion is that the transom flap angle is critical to the correct planing of this model and that it should not be negative. Until the new motors and ESCs are fitted will leave the transom flap and battery locations as is. Once these components are installed, intend to repeat the test. Am confident that with some fine tuning the model can be now made to plane properly at a scale speed. Interesting to note that the model will just about plane with only one propeller operating – wonder what it will be like with all three?

PROPELLERS by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Thanks all. Had rather suspected it was not worthwhile, but you have confirmed it. Rowen

PROPELLERS by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Yup, listen to the gents. Buy em in. And believe me I'm a tight arse AND I'm perfectly capable of doing it myself in a jig by silver (hard) soldering, but I wouldn't bother. Not when Prop Shop do such a good job in manganese bronze. When I scratchbuilt Rivas for a living I only bought the props, L&R hand and the glasses in the cocktail cabinets. I can't make glass, dammit. Cheers, Martin

PROPELLERS by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Rowen, I agree with John 👍 Unless you have your own brass foundry the best we can do is turn the hub on a lathe, prefabricate the blades (making sure that they are identical form and weights!), cutting / milling slots into the hub and then solder - which is weakpoint Number 1! Then wonder why it runs rough and cavitates cos it's outa balance and uneven pitch😡 I suggest you leave it to the pros like Rabeosch who for about 15 bucks or so will give you a robust cast, balanced and highly polished scale or sports finished article. Weigh up the hours you will spend fiddlin' about against the price of a decent pro job. Especially if you need two or three the same for one boat. Only time I fiddle about is when I need small scale props for my plastic magic projects 1/72 down to 1/350! e.g. 4 for a carrier like Ark Royal or Enterprise at 1/350. There ain't nowt that small on the market. Cheers Doug 😎

PROPELLERS by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
In my opinio not worth the hassle👍

PROPELLERS by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Thinking of trying to make my own brass propellers. Has anybody any suggestions on the best construction techniques?

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
Hi. Thanks for your comments. Before I started the BB did some canvassing of the net to find other builders. The drivetrain remarks were particularly interesting. The consensus seems to be that building three screws, as is scale and as I am determined to do, is the most complex and that for performance it is better using either single or two. Once deviating from scale bigger propellers also work better. I have rather limited my options with being determined to capture the original layout though. The vessel is being scratch built on a hull from MTBHulls, of which I am well pleased. The HK source is HobbyKing, often find their products are on backorder, but usually only take a few days to arrive. In this case have been advised it will be rather longer.

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago
Hi Rowen, Bad luck🤔 Not necessarily a short, maybe just very high current draw due to the 4500kV motors and a dodgy connection adding resistance. In the wet stuff you have of course a load on the propellers which you don't have on the bench/bank, hence the higher current draw through the ESCs. I did wonder before about the 3 x 4500kV !! Since I went brushless I always use only 3.5 or 4mm gold bullets to connect them to the ESCs. Suggest you do the same and remove the corrosion susceptible screw connections.😲 Surprised the motors weren't available😲 I recently bought some, also 28mm,and some EScs for my PTB and they were here in 4 days! Oops, sorry, did I buy the one's you wanted 🤔

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
Decided to retry with the 2S battery and the original scale style propellers. Concluded that the speed is fine, especially in the windy conditions encountered and in a small pool that limited acceleration. The model had a very flat plane, must adjust the transom flap angle to see what effect that has. The forefoot did not rise much from the water surface. Was frustrated by the “stutter” referred to in the last blog, noticed this occurred on the two out shafts only and when the starboard was operated after the port was running. Swopped the starboard motor over with the centre one to see what effect it would have. As started to remove the motor noted that a connector was not tight and that the screw had corroded. Exchanged motors, removed all connectors then cleaned and refitted using a water resistant lubricant. The stutter seemed cured. Another lesson learnt, when dealing with these high currents every connection is tested and all defects exposed. The opportunity to retest using a 3S battery arose so installed it, all worked fine on the bank. Put the model in the water and a major short occurred. 2 fuses blew and about 6” of wiring melted and burnt through the insulation. At least there was no hull damage! Did an inquest and, apart from the damage described, also found the starboard ESC and motor had failed. These were the ones where the “stutter” originated, but cannot see any correlation between the two problems. Discussed the model with some of fellow scale modelers and concluded that the 4500kV motors are unsuitable for the scale propellers used. Every suggestion points toward motors in the 1 – 2000kV range. As now needed to obtain a new motor and ESC, decided to reequip both outer shafts with 2000kv motors and water cooled ESCs. Felt modifying these outer shafts would allow assessment of this new drivetrain combination, could then decide what approach to take with the centre shaft. Due to the mounting and driveshaft arrangement, the choice of motors was restricted to 28mm O/D with a 1/8” shaft size. Unfortunately, suitable items are on back-order from Hong Kong, so there will be no further updates for a while.

30mm dog propeller for 4mm shaft by boaty Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi CB90 Have you tried Dave Marles at Prestwich Model Boats? He is an expert on this sort of thing and he fixed me up with a prop for my Proboat Blackjack recently. Its worth giving Dave a call as he may know where you can find one even if he has not got one in stock. Boaty😋

30mm dog propeller for 4mm shaft by CB90 Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Thanks for advise. The new shaft I bought (aluminium tube & skeg with steel shaft has an aluminium dog setup) I thought it would be best to use it, otherwise it means using a normal prop on a short thread as don't have thread cutting equipment. I looked at Cornwall MB but their sizes start at 35mm.

30mm dog propeller for 4mm shaft by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
have you tried cornwall model boats https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=... style='background-color:yellow;'>propeller&PN=Radio_Active_2_Blade_Dog_Drive_GFN_Propellers%2ehtml#aMA3025DD

30mm dog propeller for 4mm shaft by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Why a dogged prop? Got an alignment problem? Dogged props can be very noisy physically and electronically so I usually avoid them if at all possible.👍