Just started my first timber model boat, will be converting it to radio controlled. Still waiting for some electronics, to turn up, motor, ESC, battery, then it will get serious. still have to source propeller and shaft when I find out motor shaft size. I've added a few photos of my barge I scratch built while waiting. It's Scotty scale and my little helper, Grandson Aiden, can't wait to see it in the water.
Another thought - The main difference between the bench and the water is the load on the system - ie increase in amps. This load may cause the reduction in signal and into failsafe? What size propellers are in use? Maybe a test with smaller props. I would also test without the BEC.
Excuse me, please -- in my case I have two brushed DC12V motors in my steamer Lulonga . I use an external HK mixer. (transmitter HKT6A V2, throttle on right stick) I control the model only with the right stick, Thr 3 canal=>forward and backward, mix with Ail 1.canal=> moving to left, or to right ) control is then very simple. I have a rudder as usual on can.4 (left stick),due to its little efficiency I use mainly right stick steering. I believe it is more simply, than tank steering. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azdS-40f_0whttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iS6F8y60BAU ...... I think a similar scheme could be used for brushless engines, even for propeller-driven models.
Whoa! Propellers are a serious 3D proposition! Not least as you can't have a threaded prop/shaft. Well, you could but it would be rat shit. Shall have to think about that one. I'm speaking from the design perspective, of course. The Machine does what it's told to do.
Hello gentlemen, Im the "Tapemeasureman" from Atlanta, Georgia, USA. A carpenter, remodeler by trade, Ive recently became interested in vintage model steam engines. It is my intention to build (at the moment) a simple hull / boat to be powered by one of my steam engines. To be more specific, a hull of repurposed, recycled sheet metal on the 18" to maybe 36" size range. It will be powered by a 1 or 2 cylinder STEAM ENGINE AND BOILER. My thinking currently is something along the lines of THE AFRICAN QUEEN, although with a more simplified hull design I can create with bought sheet aluminum, or sheet steel from recycled paint cans or some such, something fairly easy to work with, readily available and cheap. Currently I am more interested in basic function than strict detail or creating a scale replica. In short I want to build a simple working water craft to utilize one of my steam engines be it propeller or paddle wheel propelled I am open to any and all suggestions and directions as I am completely ignorant on this subject and seeking enlightenment, so any help will surely save me countless hours of the trials and errors of starting from scratch, all alone. Any help with hull patterns, alternate information resources, tips on working in the various metals will be appreciated more than you know, and will leave me forever in your debt and very grateful. Thank you in advance, hoping you are having a great day.
[Score: 8/10] 28"/700g hanley Capable of 4mph Single Propellor (3 Blade 40mm) Direct Drive to a tape drive (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 2Amp/h Batteries - Comments: scratch built stand off model of uss handley i believe cant find the plans i used to confirm the correct name, the hull is 3mm balsa for the sides covered with 1mm white card, the bottom is 5 mm balsa. scratch built propeller 3mm shaft and tube to match , scratch built propeller and rudder and fittings, the boat was painted with 4coats of enamelspray primer and 4 coats of light grey enamel with a black bottom.
I have an original Aerokits Solent powered by two Torpedo 800 brushed motors controlled by two Mtronics 25 amp brushed speed controllers. I normally use two 8.4 volt 5000 mah NiMh batteries, although I have also used two 11.i volt Lipo's. The shafts are fitted with 50mm three bladed brass propellers. The boat performs nicely on the water. My stanchions are home made from 3mm brass rod with holes drilled to take 2mm chain. The stanchions are 70mm in lenght above the deck with approx 10mm below the deck, the base of the stanchion has a suitable sized brass washer fitted where it passes into the hull, the top of the stanchion is filed to a ronded profile. Shaun
Ill chip in! Pictures tell a story. Ok, a twin shaft, but the principle is the same. Imagine the angle of shaft you have, then propeller is pushing up, get it a shallow angle, and its now pushing forward. On the 34" fireboat, largest prop you will end up with is 50mm, so cut a dics 50mm, attach to your shaft, with a flat on it so it sits on the hull, viola, here is your prop angle👍 Prop support, use a strip of brass, heat it, and bend around same diameter rod (as your outer shaft, not on the shaft as the heat could damage the bearings), clamp together and either solder or use a small nut and bolt, fit through a slot in the hull, and then bend the side over, like wings, inside the hull, and epoxy. Paul Fit a water pick up, its easier at the build time, than regretting it later, you don't have to use it if its not necessary
Hi Richard your motor has a big 8mm shaft, have you thought about how you are going to connect to your propshaft? It might be too late now, but the early ic shafts where a steep angle, and really a bit far forward under the hull. Imagine the propeller is pushing up, rather than forward. If not too late (its actually not as daunting as you might think) you could do with altering the angle, so the propeller is close to the hull. Work on the fact that 55mm "x" prop will be the biggest, you will end up with 50mm or 52.5mm 👍 I did a lot of testing with my 4 foot 28, hulls are the same almost, we just have to now consider your battery and the resulting amp draw as your esc and motor are rated at 60a
Amati Italian Runabout 1970 RC - I have been building models for years but this is my first attempt at RC. I was initially going to buy the RC kit from Amati but it is not available. I have purchased 2 motors and am now wondering what sort of prop shafts and what size propellers to use. The motors I bought are direct drive so there is no reduction gear.
Some info. on radar, armament and wartime mods! 'Ya pays ya money and yer takes yer choice'! 😎 "Armament, electronics and protection The main armament of the Illustrious class consisted of sixteen quick-firing (QF) 4.5-inch (110 mm) dual-purpose guns in eight twin-gun turrets, four in sponsons on each side of the hull. The roofs of the gun turrets protruded above the level of the flight deck to allow them to fire across the deck at high elevations. The gun had a maximum range of 20,760 yards (18,980 m). Her light anti-aircraft defences included six octuple mounts for QF 2-pounder ("pom-pom") anti-aircraft (AA) guns, two each fore and aft of the island and two in sponsons on the port side of the hull. The 2-pounder gun had a maximum range of 6,800 yards (6,200 m). The completion of Illustrious was delayed two months to fit her with a Type 79Z early-warning radar; she was the first aircraft carrier in the world to be fitted with radar before completion. This version of the radar had separate transmitting and receiving antennas which required a new mainmast to be added to the aft end of the island to mount the transmitter. The Illustrious-class ships had a flight deck protected by 3 inches (76 mm) of armour and the internal sides and ends of the hangars were 4.5 inches (114 mm) thick. The hangar deck itself was 2.5 inches (64 mm) thick and extended the full width of the ship to meet the top of the 4.5-inch waterline armour belt. The belt was closed by 2.5-inch transverse bulkheads fore and aft. The underwater defence system was a layered system of liquid- and air-filled compartments backed by a 1.5-inch (38 mm) splinter bulkhead. Wartime modifications While under repair in 1941, Illustrious's rear "round-down" was flattened to increase the usable length of the flight deck to 670 feet (204.2 m). This increased her aircraft complement to 41 aircraft by use of a permanent deck park. Her light AA armament was also augmented by the addition of 10 Oerlikon 20 mm autocannon in single mounts with a maximum range of 4,800 yards (4,400 m). In addition the two steel fire curtains in the hangar were replaced by asbestos ones. After her return to the UK later that year, her Type 79Z radar was replaced by a Type 281 system and a Type 285 gunnery radar was mounted on one of the main fire-control directors. The additional crewmen, maintenance personnel and facilities needed to support these aircraft, weapons and sensors increased her complement to 1,326. During her 1943 refits, the flight deck was modified to extend its usable length to 740 feet (225.6 m), and "outriggers" were probably added at this time. These were 'U'-shaped beams that extended from the side of the flight deck into which aircraft tailwheels were placed. The aircraft were pushed back until the main wheels were near the edge of the flight deck to allow more aircraft to be stored on the deck. Twin Oerlikon mounts replaced most of the single mounts. Other twin mounts were added so that by May she had a total of eighteen twin and two single mounts. The Type 281 radar was replaced by an upgraded Type 281M, and a single-antenna Type 79M was added. Type 282 gunnery radars were added for each of the "pom-pom" directors, and the rest of the main directors were fitted with Type 285 radars. A Type 272 target-indicator radar was mounted above her bridge. These changes increased her aircraft capacity to 57 and caused her crew to grow to 1,831. A year later, in preparation for her service against the Japanese in the Pacific, one starboard octuple "pom-pom" mount, directly abaft the island, was replaced by two 40 mm Bofors AA guns; which had a maximum range of 10,750 yards (9,830 m). Two more twin Oerlikon mounts were added, and her boilers were retubed. At this time her complement was 1,997 officers and enlisted men. By 1945, accumulated wear-and-tear as well as undiagnosed shock damage to Illustrious's machinery caused severe vibrations in her centre propeller shaft at high speeds. In an effort to cure the problem, the propeller was removed, and the shaft was locked in place in February; these radical measures succeeded in reducing, but not eliminating, the vibrations and reduced the ship's speed to about 24 knots (44 km/h; 28 mph).["
Built in 1981 and the cabin superstructure refurbished a couple of years ago. The original motors are 2 decaperms that are getting very hot now. Brushes changed in one of them which now seems to be lazy. It is now time to change these for a more modern type of motor. Because of the distanse from the hull to the middle of the shaft a 850 straight shaft to propeller shaft will not fit. I've decided to fit 2 bearing blocks to the underside of the mount and fix a pulley gearbox to the prop shaft. The decaperms where 2.75:1. What would be the best ratio for my new setup? olly49
Thank you, AllenA! Well, no science behind the running time. As long as I run at low speeds it just happens everything seems fine. But when I put the throttle down... then all is over within 15 minutes or so. I pretty much stick to the same power layout. 540 motors with 30A controllers, 2000 or higher mAh capacity and 35mm or 40mm props and 4mm shafts. Dirty Deeds is a bit special. I was on my learning curve (I'm still there!) so due to a novice error I used a 2mm shaft so I had to get a special propeller and a big mean battery (kind of a Viagra approach). So, I had a 4-bladed 35mm propeller bored for the 2mm shaft and a 10.8v 4000 mah battery pack. A bit in the heavy side but it gave the boat nice stability. I can achieve better running time with Lipos, but I'm an old-fashioned guy still concerned with the maintenance Lipos involve and do appreciate a bit more of the weight offered by NIHMs, not to mention I'm a cheap guy (LOL). Something that really worked for me is the choice of propellers. I noticed a remarkable run-time difference between plastic and metal (yes, more expensive) propellers, but it is well-spent money. Other boats I have run with 9.8v 2000 mAH batteries achieving almost 50 min at low speeds, which is OK with some of my models for realistic ride purposes. Here I have my two "inspirational" pics.