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>> Home > Tags > propeller

propeller
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propeller
Is this scratch built by Keystone Petty Officer   Posted: 1 day ago
Just back from our annual Gambia trip where I met up with a lad called Joseph. He was very interested in model boats and proudly showed me his effort to make an electric powered model. The whole thing was built from a form of palm wood and was to be powered by a car wiper motor. The only tools used have been, a tenon saw, 1 Half inch firmer chisel, penknife an sandpaper. The propeller is the fan from an old computer. It must qualify as scratch built but shows the enthusiasm of a young man to get what he wants. Where are our youngsters showing the same in our hobby.

Graupner Elke HF 408 by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi Allen Mabuchi no longer list details of your motor and as it is from an ex flyer chances are it has been cooked at some time in its life. I agree it is not easy to check for shorts but a reasonable meter will show any major problems. Your battery sounds fine. Pitch is often marked on the props near the boss but an explanation I have seen on the web: Pitch: theoretical distance the prop travels on each rotation. This is theoretical because water is not a solid medium and the prop slips. 10 to 30% is normal, the lower numbers are found only on hi-performance props, specially prepared. Constant Pitch: the pitch is the same across the entire propeller's working surface, or blade face. Progressive Pitch: the pitch is lower at the leading edge and increases progressively along the trailing edge. Consider a prop that runs in a liquid media with a constant pitch, the tip of the prop rotates faster than the hub. Conversely, if the angle at the tip is lower, the water speed on all prop surfaces will be the same. In this case, the performance is far better. Progressive pitch props offer better planning performance. So if you were to get some graph paper or paper with 1mm markings and set the prop on a shaft over the paper and measure the start point then rotate thro 360deg and measure the finish point this will give you the theoretical pitch. Over the years I have amassed a fair number of props and usually try various before I decide on the best for the model. Try what you have with the 6v battery (looks just right for the model) and see how it sails. From experience I know that this type of model is difficult to get going and all our club models have coarse pitch brass props. Speed will depend on the motor but with a geared motor you should be able to reduce the revs to give scale speed. I look forward to hearing how you progress in a couple of weeks.

Graupner Elke HF 408 by AllenA Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi Dave and Doug. I love it when you two start chatting it's like tipping a cornucopia of knowledge all over the floor of my workshop. I found my original notes and the motor is a Mabuchi TD224 23. The shafts are: S.H.G Marine Miniature Propeller Shaft Assembly Stainless Steel Propeller Shaft assembly with Brass Outer Tube M2 Diameter Shafts An excellent range of miniature shaft and tube assemblies with Grade 303 Stainless Shafts and Hard Grade Brass outer Tubes. The outer tube diameter is 4mm, Shaft Diameter 2mm The Bearings are Oil / Water lubricated Acetyl material and are extremely hard wearing and quiet, The Shafts are Threaded at one end with an M2 Thread. The propellers are: RADIOACTIVE MA 3045 RC MODEL BOAT 3 BLADE 30MM PROPELLER M2 THREAD 2 OFF. As my Nimh battery is reading 8.09v so it's unlikely that there is a weak cell, I will recheck all the readings and be a little more precise to ensure I am not leading you on a wild goose chase. The biggest clue is that I have just measured the battery holder plate. The measurements are L130mm, H36mm and W65mm. Looks like the only battery that will fit is the PS-630 6V 3.0Ah 150mA 134(L) x 34(W) x 60(H)mm 0.7kg or similar. This looks right as it will probably take care of the ballast issue and it's no wonder my normal 6v battery wouldn't fit. It will be a couple of weeks before I can put her on the lake but at least the battery is ordered. Thanks again for all the info. One final thing... Can you tell me how to measure propeller pitch?

Graupner Elke HF 408 by AllenA Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi Doug, I put the Watt Meter to use and with about 16ozs of ballast, might need a bit more, had 6.77 amps at full forward with just over 40 watts . At complete stall with prop spinning she jumps to 40 amps which I guess is to be expected. She is, obviously, too fast for scale so I will need to control via the Tx. Might look for a smaller propeller.... what do you think? Thanks for your help.

Graupner Elke HF 408 by AllenA Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Elke HF 408 now refitted. Running on a Mabuchi motor geared 2:1, 2mm shaft and 30mm 3 blade propeller. Still fiddling with the ballast but almost ready to sail. Yet to find a suitable fishing net to suit 1:36 scale. Control is via a 40mhz Hitec Ranger 3, Acoms receiver and Chinese 320A fan cooled ESC. As they would say in Cardiff she looks tidy. Many thanks to Tica/BRCarsten for photos of the plans.

Test fit the Rudder! by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Ed I notice that your prop shaft sticks out from the hull which may be why the prop is so near the rudder. I treat all plans as guidance notes and trial fit the parts before final fixing. I believe we have all been in your position at some time or another! I agree with the advice already given and believe a thin washer and thinned locknut would give you the clearance you need. This isn't a speed boat so there will not be much stress on the set up but my preference would be brass, its easy to file and won't rust. I have in the past reworked the propeller boss but its not really a good idea, and does tend to spoil the looks.

Test fit the Rudder! by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi, would prefer to see something like a stainless or brass washer. The nylon might pick up and tear, then metal to metal contact would occur. The washer has to take both the propeller thrust and rotation, so needs to be quite robust. I doubt thin nylon would last very long, it could also heat up and extrude under load. Rowen

Test fit the Rudder! by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Funnily enough, was talking about this issue earlier with other scale modelers. I faithfully reproduce the rudder position and size and then propeller shaft protrusion on my scale models. Often find when the shaft and propeller are installed they either contact or come very close to the rudder leading edge. Suspect model propellers and the boss are thicker than a scale propellers. Have resorted to trimming either the rudder or the prop boss to get them in properly. Also, have several times left the prop. locknut off and Loctited the prop to the shaft. Be interested in other's experiences. Have never lost a prop by using Loctite fortunately.

Speedline 1/12 Severn Class RLNI Boat kit for sale Incl. all options by iluvlabs Seaman   Posted: 11 days ago
***** SOLD ***** I have for sale an unstarted Speedline 1/12 Severn Class Lifeboat Kit. Full set consists of all optional extras, including Bow Thruster. Not included: Motors and RC gear. Price £750 non-negotiable. 1/12 scale Severn class lifeboat The model in the photographed above was built by Terry Small for his mammoth article in Model Boats’ annual kit review, Dec 2007. Phil Locke built his on line so you can see for yourself what’s involved and what become of the model, now probably the most famous RC model lifeboat on the planet. (See www.philsrcmodels.co.uk). I am delighted to say that I now own this model and will be taking it around the shows during 2011. The kit builds into a top quality ‘museum standard’ model that you will be proud of. It is available complete or as individual ‘sets’ which can be bought separately. This means you can spread the cost of the kit or use whatever ‘sets’ you wish and make as much as you like from scratch. The model has an overall length of 58” and is 18” wide. The kit comprises of a number of ‘sets’, each of which can be bought separately. The ‘sets’ making up the full kit are as follows: HULL AND WHEELHOUSE SET £260 The hull and wheelhouse set comprises of three GRP mouldings, the hull, the main section of the wheelhouse and the inner wall of the wheelhouse. The hull is complete with the deck already moulded on and is strong and rigid, the way a big model should be. The bilge keels and rudders, both laser cut to profile from 5 mm Perspex are included as are the three trim-tab re-enforcing plates across the transom and the two exhaust outlet recesses in the transom. DETAIL SET £330 The ‘Detail Set’ is the very heart of this model and because there are so many parts, its impracticable to list every item covered. The set comprising several large sheets of laser-cut Perspex components, one sheet of acid etched Nickel Silver components and three sheets of acid etched brass components there are over 600 precision made items. Every part is pre-shaped with a high degree of accuracy ensuring a perfect fit throughout the model. The Severn class has over 1,600 stainless steel screw heads on show just fixing vent covers and closing panels and wherever one of these screw heads is to be found, a pre-drilled hole can be found, all 1,300 plus of them! Many items, such as the flying bridge windscreen frame, are made from acid etched brass to give them the inherent strength that such a delicate item needs on a model of this size. The Trim tabs are made this way but from heavy gauge brass enabling them to be used as the basis for working tabs. All the air intake and exhaust vents, brackets, plates, mast brackets and plates, flying bridge instruments and displays are included. The glazing for the flying bridge windows is included in the set as are all the Perspex covers for the instruments and display screens on the Flying Bridge, all pre-cut exactly to shape. A major feature of the Severn is the Hyab Crane that lifts the ‘Y’ Boat on and off. This is included and is made from etched brass and laser-cut Perspex. The ram cylinders and the ramrods are cast Pewter. The crane is strong and movable and forms a good basis for a working option. Included with the detail set is a CD containing lots of reference shots of a real Severn. CASTINGS SET £50 All the cast items on the model have been newly mastered and cast in either in lightweight resin, Pewter or Zinc where extra strength is required. The set includes the winches, cleats, fairleads, bollards, deck vents, valves, escape hatch spray guard, deck vents and forward vent air vent shields. New correct pattern life rings have been included also. The Anchor recovery davit has laser-cut Perspex detailing. The fisherman’s anchor itself is included in the casting set even though it is made from laser-cut Perspex. The valve handles and anchor flukes are also in the casting set, even though these too are Perspex. (I had to put them somewhere)! The set includes a cast resin Radar scanner. HANDRAILS, STANCHIONS & KICKING BOARD SET £70 The Severn class lifeboat has ‘kick boards’ bonded directly to its deck which carry the two ball stanchions and the hand railings. Our set includes extruded section aluminium kick boards, pre-formed and shaped by hand to fit the deck contours. They require only trimming and fettling before being glued directly to the deck. The “impossible to make” long curved kickboards that follow the deck steps are included of course. The two-ball stanchions are scale and are CNC made from brass. The triangular mounting brackets are made from etched brass and brass tube. The rectangular plates for the hand-railings are included in the set. 12 or 14BA bolts are used to bolt them directly to the kickboards. These are not supplied with the kit but are available from us should you need them. RUNNING SET £60 The Running Set consists of two short prop-tubes carrying the prop shafts through the hull and two A frames with stainless steel legs. Both tubes and A frames have twin bronze bushes fitted. Two ‘scale pattern’ 4 bladed brass propellers are supplied. WINDOWS SET £75 The window set is again a kit in its own right and contains all the parts required to build all the wheelhouse windows. Each window is assembled from five separate components, all made from laser-cut Perspex. The finished windows are ultra realistic and are a major scale detail feature of the model. VAC FORMING SET £10 This sheet of 1mm thick High Impact Polystyrene vac formings comprises of all the inset boxes in the wheelhouse, the four triangular mountings on the Wheelhouse roof for the ‘Y’ boat, the fendering protection plate at the bow roller, the radar box motor box, four round fenders and the four life raft boxes. HEXAGONAL HEADED SCREWS SET £78 On the full size boat there are a lot of hexagonal-headed stainless steel bolt heads left unpainted and on full view. Mostly, they secure panels and vents along the wheelhouse side, engine covers and the like. These are an important feature of the model and are represented by specially made dummy hexagonal headed screw bolt heads. They are machined from brass and then Nickel plated. These enable you to achieve coloured panels with unpainted bolt heads with amazing accuracy and relative ease. FENDERING SET £40 The rubber fendering surrounding the edge of the hull is especially made for Speedline Models and is of true scale section. Made from the same type of rubber as the real thing, it even smells right! BRASS ROD SET £50 This is a collection of various size annealed (bendable quality) brass rod for the handrailings , mast, grab rails etc. Y class RIB £44 The ‘Y’ boat is an essential part of the Severn and has been modelled as a complete boat, not just a tarpaulin covered one. The model is fully detailed and is a scale lifeboat kit in it’s own right. Many kits have actually been RC’d themselves. Full Kit £1038 Carriage P & P in mainland UK is £20 for the kit. Please enquire about overseas shipping cost. Postage for individual sets bought separately is charged at cost..

Too Powerful Brushless ? by reilly4 Commander   Posted: 17 days ago
Graham, I have attached the same table that Doug sent me. This has the relevant information you seek. According to the table attached the Graupner 500 kV ECO has a specified output of 1440 watts and 80Amps. Strangely the 400 kV ECO has a specified output of 2010 Watts. So the 1440Watt output is questionable and may be a typo based on the other entries in the table. more likely to be 2440Watts In any case you need a 5mm diameter propeller shaft. For shaft alignment i use a brass tube that slides snugly on the propeller shaft and then on the motor shaft. When the tube rotates/slides well on both then the shafts are aligned. I then fit the motor mounts, check and tweak the alignment if necessary, remove the tube and replace with a universal coupling. If the motor or propeller shafts are a different diameter then I insert the relevant size smaller tube inside the larger of the tubes. This method is simple and has served me well, including for larger IC engine powered boats belonging to friends. Haig

Too Powerful Brushless ? by reilly4 Commander   Posted: 18 days ago
I get my Raboesch propellers from Cornwall model boats - and I am in Australia. It would be very interesting if there was a video made at the start of this post. How many Watts of power is that motor producing. That is the question I would have asked at the time.

Too Powerful Brushless ? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Hi Dave, yep, seems Raboesch don't do direct sails and the Jotika site directs you to the shipwrightshop for orders. There they only seem (at the moment?) to have rubbish soldered props😡 http://www.shipwrightshop.com/shop/contents/en-uk/d7_RC-Ship... I get my Rab stuff from Krick, they do the full prop and shaft range. http://www.krickshop.de/Products/Accessories/Accessories-for... Excellent service, I get my order usually the next day, max 3 days. For 'other countries' they say 3 to 7 days for delivery, which ain't so bad😉 Just bought two 30mm M3 props from them to replace the nasty plastic things on my HMS Belfast. Ordered Wednesday - arrived Thursday😊Happy hunting, cheers Doug 😎

Too Powerful Brushless ? by Traiderman Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 18 days ago
Hi Mark, i have a 4mm shaft fitted and the boat was out of the water at the time, it happened when i just touched the throttle! i thinking maybe a 5mm shaft would be good (less whipping)with a racing propeller and a 1100kv motor with a rubber heavy duty coupling, i think that would be a good setup and will be suitable for a 3ft boat. i think the brass propeller is just not built for high revs, or was it a 1 off badly made propeller? anyway would that setup be good? thanks Graham

Too Powerful Brushless ? by Traiderman Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 18 days ago
Hi All, a lot of info, i need a complete change to the power train setup. canabus setup looks good, i think i will follow that. what size in diametre prop shaft did you use, 4 -5 mm? have uploaded some pictures of the boat, complete with offending motor! and 1 of the resulting damage to the 3 blade brass propeller, which i think was out of balance, so, can't take the speed of rpm? probably need a racing propeller? There is room for 2 lipo's in parallel. Thanks Again Graham

Graupner Elke HF 408 by AllenA Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Elke stripped down, cleaned and base colours flatted. Hopefully, on the water in about a month. I read somewhere that she, originally, had a 300 motor and with a narrow propshaft gap I am down to a 2mm propshaft, 4mm OD. Looking in my motor box I have a 300 motor with 2:1 gearing set up. Actually fits perfectly as the propshaft has to be low to the keel. I plan to use a 30mm 3 blade propeller, because I have one in my box, and hope, that even though it is slightly big for the motor which is 25mm diameter, I will escape any undesirable consequences. Noticeably, the stanchions and safety ropes only run along one side of the deck. I assume that this is to facilitate nets being brought in on the open side?