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>> Home > Tags > propshaft

propshaft
prop shaft
propshaft alignment
shaft diameter
propshop
propshaft
Billings Sea King by AllenA Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 27"/900g Billings Sea King Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 25mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 40mm) Direct Drive to a 2 x Como Drill (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese 320a Fan cooled (10Amps) ESC - Comments: Found at a Boot Sale in a sorry state. Retained the 2 Como motors but replaced ESC with Chinese Fan Cooled 320a. Acoms AR-201 Rx, Futaba servo all linked to new old stock Acoms Techniplus Alpha 27mhz Tx. New rudder, original propshaft with new couplings. Hull painted in Hammerite Gold and Plastikote white. Retained orignal Billings decals. New stanchions and rails. Re-veneered deck and added some fancy balsa work. Plains well after contra-rotating the props.

Make shift Washer! by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
HI Ed, Just looked closely at your propshaft, if you can knock out the bearing cut a little of the end of the tube and refit the bearing, that will increase the clearance to the rudder without removing the shaft tube, good luck, carefully protect the hull from saw cuts. Mark

Test fit the Rudder! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Evenin' Ed, No! you need some kind of thrust washer between the prop / locknut and the end of the tube! Otherwise when full ahead the prop or nut will grind against the tube 😡 I would swap the thick nylon washer for a thin stainless steel washer. A good DIY store should have some. Should win you a mm or so. If the shaft moves back and forth more than that then something else is wrong. The movement on my Sea Scout shaft is about 20 thou max. Or as RH suggests you could use Loctite to secure the prop instead of the locknut. I would prefer the stainless washer. Cheers Doug 😎 BTW: I also fit washers at the inboard end, between a collet and the tube. As shown in pic attached of my new Sea Scout installation. New propshaft was milled to lock the collet in place (Pic 2). Cocked it up slightly so I needed extra spacing washers! 😁 no one's perfect 😉

Propshaft and oiler fitting by mturpin013 Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
Propshaft and oiler fitting Now for the fitting of the propshaft, fortunately I have a long series drill that will go through the keel and through the bulkhead B4 into the motor compartment; this went well and came out in the expected place. Next a trial fit of the tube in the keel and into the skeg, again this lined up perfectly and all that needed to be done was to epoxy it into place. First I nearly forgot to fit the oiler system to the prop tube, careful drilling and deburring and making sure no swarf is left in the tube. Finally wrapping a piece of plumber’s PTFE gas tape around the tube to ensure a gas tight fit (oil tight) we are ready to commit the tube to final fixing. Epoxy mixed and applied I put a couple of small wedges in the skeg to stop it moving and a wedge under the oiler to make sure it was horizontal.

Prop shaft bearing by mturpin013 Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
Prop shaft bearing I purchased a standard propshaft with Phosphor bronze bearings again from a well-known supplier, however I had also fancied a Raboesch type with a bearing at the motor end however at £30 plus think again. So I researched the bearing type and found at £2.50 each it was worth a go at making my own so quick sketch and an order placed from Modelfixings.com. A simple piece of machining and the part was made. A simple enough job to remove the existing bearing and slide on the new housing and it made a significant difference to the “feel” of the shaft when rotated. I also made a simple collar to retain the shaft in the hosing.

Dumas 1203 Coast Guard Lifeboat (RNLI Waveney conversion) by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
So here we go again! I have decided to give other projects a rest for a time in favour of this little gem. Pick up off eBay for less than £100 NIB posted, couldnt resist! Its the Dumas (kit no:1203) 44' Coast Guard Lifeboat. I dont know if this kit is still produced by Dumas and having looked at the Die cutting of the parts, certainly seems like an old kit? However, I love my building and the challenges, so I am sure it will turn out nice at the end. Finished length 33". I shall be converting this to a RNLI Waveney Class Lifeboat and will possibly go with 44-003 named "Khami" which was based in Great Yarmouth and Gorleston, which is local to me here in Suffolk. Sadly very little turns up on this boat via Google, but at some stage may pop out to the Great Yarmouth Lifeboat station and see if I can hunt anymore info on her. I shall not be using the recommended Dumas running gear for 2 reasons, 1st its a geared set-up (I am going with MFA540 brushed direct drive) and the cost of over £150! Photos show the box artwork, plans and the included wood. Last photo shows my electrics less propshafts and props that are on order. Note the Star Wars 3.75" figures that with poetic licence could be painted to represent crew. However, at this point the model is approx 1;16 scale and the figures would be 1:18 scale so maybe too small. There are 1:16 scale lifeboat figures available but pricey? My one issue at this point is going to battery choice? do I go with a small 6v lead acid or perhaps 2 Tamiya type 7.2v NIMH in series. anyone who has built anything like this may want to advise. LIPO not an option as the Mtroniks ESC do not support LIPO. Space inside the hull may also be an issue? Another issue is going to be fabricating some propshaft struts for the rear next to the props. There is quite a bit of prop shaft exposed outside the hull, so these would be integral to support and strength of the propshafts. Is there anything available off the shelf (they are included in the running gear set, but dont seem to be available on there own) of do I need to fabricate from brass tube and sheet/strip brass?

Too Powerful Brushless ? by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi Traiderman, How long is the propshaft and tube???? The reason for asking is that if the shaft is more than 6 - 8" and of small diameter, 4mm, it is likely that the shaft is whipping inside the tube, a 1000kv, ish, motor with if needed some support bearings inside the tube, what model is being fitted??? Mark

Too Powerful Brushless ? by Traiderman Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 20 days ago
hi Richard, Thanks for the info, i have decided to remove the Prop and check it for straitness, before i start again with rebuilding using a heavy duty coupling and a slower motor, as i think the existing motor is just too fast at 47000 rpm for the propshaft and coupling and if the propellor is slightly out of balance then the prop will come off again! Thank you Richard and all other contributors that have helped! Graham

Graupner Elke HF 408 by AllenA Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Elke stripped down, cleaned and base colours flatted. Hopefully, on the water in about a month. I read somewhere that she, originally, had a 300 motor and with a narrow propshaft gap I am down to a 2mm propshaft, 4mm OD. Looking in my motor box I have a 300 motor with 2:1 gearing set up. Actually fits perfectly as the propshaft has to be low to the keel. I plan to use a 30mm 3 blade propeller, because I have one in my box, and hope, that even though it is slightly big for the motor which is 25mm diameter, I will escape any undesirable consequences. Noticeably, the stanchions and safety ropes only run along one side of the deck. I assume that this is to facilitate nets being brought in on the open side?

Annabelle by veganhouse Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 7/10] 26"/4000g Annabelle Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 30mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive to a 540 (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries - Comments: My 1st tug boat -relatively small! Billings kit - ABS hull, wooden superstructure and decks, kit included hull and deck fittings in brass / plastic, propshafts, rudders and propellers. Good manual

Tamiya- King George V. Update. by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Still painting small parts, but have been limited by illness since November. Also looking for suitable motors. Have decided to use the props supplied, well two of them. Made propshafts from 1mm stainless steel and shaft tubes from 2mm O.D. brass tube. Just need to cut to length, once I have the motors. Will update again soon.

Cromarty by AllenA Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Also, from the same guy, is the Cromarty. She is 30" by 6.5". Quite solid but with an odd small bore propshaft. There were a couple of makers of this kit but not sure which one this is. Again, couldn't resist for £14. I am booked in for therapy regarding my obsession. The way I look at it is that you must have it when you see it and I will, one day, restore these beauties.

Graupner Elke HF 408 by AllenA Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hope you are not becoming too bored with my boot sale stories but I seem to have hit a rich vein at the moment and can't resist. Here's the Graupner Elke HF 408 picked up on Sunday for £14. Pretty good nick with lots of bits and does not appear to have been sailed or fitted with RC. Again, any help or advice really welcome. Retro fitting a propshaft could be a problem.

replacing propshaft by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Guys, for looks i agree the transom is the place, but, it is hidden by the wake, a safe place is to 1 side or the other, you can see the water coming out Mark

replacing propshaft by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Exactly Colin 👍👍👍 That's where mine will be on my restored Sea Scout. Wonder where it was on KGV and PoW?? 😉 Merry Christmas and Happy, and above all, Healthy New Year Doug 😎