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>> Home > Tags > propshaft

propshaft
prop shaft
propshaft alignment
shaft diameter
propshop
propshaft
Prop Shaft Grease by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
I would add that it is important that you also have a thrust washer at each end of the propshaft. We used to use Rizla cigarette papers to gauge the clearance.

Prop Shaft Grease by boaty Commander   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Bryan Best way to remove the propshaft is to undo the universal joint at the top then slide the shaft out through the stern tube . Sometimes this may be difficult if the rudder gets in the way. If you remove the prop there is a good chance you can extract the shaft without too much difficulty but be careful not to bend the shaft. Referring to the latter it is advisable to remove the rudder but on some occasions I have bent the rudder slightly though there is an element of risk in this as the rudder has to be realigned. When reassembling the shaft and universal coupling check that after fitting the prop there is adequate clearance between the prop hub and the stern tube and the same with the coupling so the assembly can rotate freely without rubbing against the tube . Regards Boaty😊

M5 Prop Shaft by battleshipbuff Seaman   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi, Asking for a friend who is building his own boat,and requires an M5 Propshaft.He is having problems trying to find one,so could anyone tell him where to look please? Cheers, Mick F

Power Cabling by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi Neil, How many fuses do you need??? Remember, wherever you put them you need easy access to be able to change a dud fuse without taking the million screws out and removing the whole deck.🤔 I'm considering using the space next to the repositioned battery, just behind the port propshaft hull exit. Another consideration is on your mounting plate forward, but NOT at the edges as you show in your photo cos you'll never get at them when the deck is on 😉 I'm thinking of a 'bridge' across the middle (above where you have the receiver in your photo) so that the fuses protrude above the main deck. Then you can get at 'em easy 😉 I will also save space by using a UBEC to tap off the drive batt for the RX supply instead of a separate RX battery. Pics tomorrow - I hope! Cheers Doug 😎

Happy Hunter by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
No worries mate, have the esc's got a max and min voltage??? they may not work at 6volts, if not then a set of 7.2v NimH packs will be brilliant x2 or possibly 4 packs with a Y lead for each pair, 3300mah packs are going for a good price on ebay at the moment, also have a look at component shop and hobbyking, be sure you are on the uk site to keep the postage down!!!! Wouldn't bother with lipo batteries, SLA or NimH are more user friendly. If you want the H/H superstructure try contacting Krick they now make the kit, took over from Robbe when the went bust. Are the propshafts ok??? withdraw the shafts and lightly oil them get the oil into the inner bearing as well. Mark

Prop Shaft Grease by boaty Commander   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi Andy I use Dynamite Marine grease both on my fast electric and scale boats. You can purchase this from Wheelspin Models and you can also buy a grease gun from them as well😋. It is brilliant for whatever boat you own and with the gun you can really lubricate the whole propshaft. Boaty

huntsman 46 by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Pilot, first of all welcome to the forum. Do you have any modeling experience?? Which kit or plan are you using??? I would recommend an outrunner look for one with about 700 - 800 watt output, 3s or 4s rated with an ESC rated at least 100 - 150 amps, as a start with a 40 - 45mm brass prop. Kit or plan, reduce the angle of the propshaft to about 15 - 20 degrees electric motors can lie lower in the hull which was designed for I/C motors with their flywheel hanging below the motor, needing extra clearance. Suppliers. Have a look at the hobbyking site, for motor and esc, once you have the basic build underway, decide on the batteries you are going to use. Hope this helps as a starter, look round the web sites get more info and we can direct you further as to your requirements Regards Mark

Motor problem by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Richard I'm going to be blunt here, no intention to offend, but, You get a donation of some random ancient 4BA prop, you are no further on, as you are stuck with one prop. You have yet to decide which size prop will suit, and, as time goes by, and you consider updating your drive train, that 4BA is going to continually hold you back. Get it out, a new propshaft, 4mm, or even 5mm (all my boats run 5mm) might even fit your original outershaft and away you go. Slightly off topic, but, the cost of very average brushed motors and yesterday technology is now more expensive than Brushless, which is way more efficient, I wonder how much longer the model shops can survive touting this over priced dated equipment, RC Boats is the only RC discipline holding on to this out of date technology. Back on topic!🤐 You could also see if you have any room to cut the threaded end off, and visit the local engineering shop, get them to thread the end 4mm or whatever suits. I remember beiung in exactly the same position on my first serious boat, my 36" aerokits Fireboat, build in the sixties by my uncle. I was with my mate, and mentor, having the exact same conversation, I was holding on, saying I'm not changing the shaft, he dropped something on the floor, I bent down, when I stood up, he had a pair of molegrips dragging the propshaft out, I could have cried, but never looked back. I then did extensive testing with a load of cheap props, and when I got it sorted, treated myself to a real nice brass prop, size based on the testing results👍

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi all I have located an 850 motor and mount at Howes Models in Kiddlington not too far from where I live in Malmesbury, for £22.50 however the prop shaft is 4BA, the coupling is not a problem as I can get the insert for the larger motor to fit the existing red coupling, but I can only seem to find 4mm 40 or 45mm propellers which are a fraction bigger than the 4BA which I know will screw on but they would have a bit of a wobble on the threads and could give me an out of balance vibration, apart from drilling out the old propshaft assy and fitting a new 4mm one what else can I do? or does anyone have a old 4BA prop they can let me have?

Swordsman hull by Rex3644 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 5/10] 34"/3400g Swordsman hull Twin Propellors (3 Blade 45mm) Direct Drive to a Johnson 600 x 2 (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 7Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese (80Amps) ESC - Comments: This was my first serious attempt at model boating and the hull a Swordsman fibreglass 34.1/2" was purchases 50 years ago from Radio Control supplies Isleworth in 1967 along with a used RCS Sequential radio. Over the years it's been powered by an ED 2.46 Racer a Merco 35 and finally my treasured OS61 VRM With a tuned pipe from Prestwich model boats. Now it's time for a a total rebuild so i,be decided to try twin contra rotating screws and brushed 600 motors. I'm looking to fit a superstructure akin to a Sea King. So far the hull has been stripped of all its hardware and all holes made good with resin and glass fibre tape. Currently making jigs to set up the two new propshafts More to follow

Propulsion Hegi Revell Fairplay V tug model by Radiosailor Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
I just recieved a big package today containing the remains and the hull of this Fairplay V. The included paperwork included a A3 sized scan of the original plan. But this plan only shows partnumbers instead of measurements. Indicated on these original plans are a 60mm diameter propellor, and the Marx Monoperm Super Special (what a name!) with reduction 3:1 in it. A choice which seems undersized to me compared to the (same era & comparable size) Bugsier Tug from Graupner which has a Decaperm. For the moment I tend to go for this 12V low Rpm Xdrive 555. It has 25Nm of torque and doesn't need reduction. And combined to a Raboesch propshaft - which one can easily shorten - will help to get the driveline as far aft as possible in the boat, leaving more room for a bigger battery.(Or have the possibility to trim the boat with the battery and have the battery as deep as possible in the boat.) I'll check these mentioned forums too, thank you for the advise.

Boat chit chat by rolfman2000 Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
Knowing Howes, I would expect them to ask for it back for "testing", as I had the same experience. For me, it wasn't too bad, as it was only a couple of days. But, for you, in Spain, it will extend the waiting time. Was it seized when it arrived, or when you first actually put power through it ? If the former, then it's clearly a "wrong'un", and should be exchanged no problem. If the latter, then it could cause more problems. I had to send them details of model, connection to propshaft, size of prop, speed controller, and battery size. With millions of these motors being produced, a few fauly ones are to be expected. Although they did exchange it, I had my doubts at times. Obviously you will have to work out postage sosts, time etc, against just ordering a new one, so. Hope yours is less complex than mine was. Best wishes, Dave W 😊

3d printing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Props are probably best left to the experts and like Doug I use brass props and have found that performance / endurance and economy don't always come cheap. I'm sure you can fashion a prop and find a way to attach to the propshaft but you will need a very good understanding of prop design to get good results. If you want a good brass prop I suggest you contact Simon (ex PropShop) at Protean Design simonhiggins181@btinternet.com or 0797 7193759. I will be watching with interest to see how this 3D print progresses!

Scale rudders by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
First rudder finished and temp fitted for photo next to prop and propshaft

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
OK! I admit (temporary😉) defeat 🤔 Yep, it's the weight and size of the frames of conventional speakers that are the problem. That's what attracted me to 'Paul's' mini transducers in the first place. Southampton goes back on the back-burner, will settle for RX, ESC and battery upgrade for now. But possibilities noted in my Log Book. Must do a Payload Test sometime. Re Build Blogs; I think I'd better finish the Sea Scout first before this all gets out of hand! 😲 next step; fabricate new propshaft and mount the brushless. In between perhaps something on the PT 109. Have all the ingredients assembled now except stern gun; Decision: 20mm Oerlikon or 40mm? Pics on the net show both at various times. Cheers Doug 😎