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>> Home > Tags > propshaft

prop shaft
propshaft alignment
shaft diameter
Propulsion Hegi Revell Fairplay V tug model by Radiosailor Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 9 days ago
I just recieved a big package today containing the remains and the hull of this Fairplay V. The included paperwork included a A3 sized scan of the original plan. But this plan only shows partnumbers instead of measurements. Indicated on these original plans are a 60mm diameter propellor, and the Marx Monoperm Super Special (what a name!) with reduction 3:1 in it. A choice which seems undersized to me compared to the (same era & comparable size) Bugsier Tug from Graupner which has a Decaperm. For the moment I tend to go for this 12V low Rpm Xdrive 555. It has 25Nm of torque and doesn't need reduction. And combined to a Raboesch propshaft - which one can easily shorten - will help to get the driveline as far aft as possible in the boat, leaving more room for a bigger battery.(Or have the possibility to trim the boat with the battery and have the battery as deep as possible in the boat.) I'll check these mentioned forums too, thank you for the advise.

Boat chit chat by rolfman2000 Admiral   Posted: 13 days ago
Knowing Howes, I would expect them to ask for it back for "testing", as I had the same experience. For me, it wasn't too bad, as it was only a couple of days. But, for you, in Spain, it will extend the waiting time. Was it seized when it arrived, or when you first actually put power through it ? If the former, then it's clearly a "wrong'un", and should be exchanged no problem. If the latter, then it could cause more problems. I had to send them details of model, connection to propshaft, size of prop, speed controller, and battery size. With millions of these motors being produced, a few fauly ones are to be expected. Although they did exchange it, I had my doubts at times. Obviously you will have to work out postage sosts, time etc, against just ordering a new one, so. Hope yours is less complex than mine was. Best wishes, Dave W 😊

3d printing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Props are probably best left to the experts and like Doug I use brass props and have found that performance / endurance and economy don't always come cheap. I'm sure you can fashion a prop and find a way to attach to the propshaft but you will need a very good understanding of prop design to get good results. If you want a good brass prop I suggest you contact Simon (ex PropShop) at Protean Design or 0797 7193759. I will be watching with interest to see how this 3D print progresses!

Scale rudders by Skydive130 Lieutenant   Posted: 17 days ago
First rudder finished and temp fitted for photo next to prop and propshaft

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
OK! I admit (temporary😉) defeat 🤔 Yep, it's the weight and size of the frames of conventional speakers that are the problem. That's what attracted me to 'Paul's' mini transducers in the first place. Southampton goes back on the back-burner, will settle for RX, ESC and battery upgrade for now. But possibilities noted in my Log Book. Must do a Payload Test sometime. Re Build Blogs; I think I'd better finish the Sea Scout first before this all gets out of hand! 😲 next step; fabricate new propshaft and mount the brushless. In between perhaps something on the PT 109. Have all the ingredients assembled now except stern gun; Decision: 20mm Oerlikon or 40mm? Pics on the net show both at various times. Cheers Doug 😎

Clothing complete, superstructure started! by Skydive130 Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
Good weekend of progress has seen the hull glass clothing completed and has now had 2 coats of resin. Will get a 3rd and final coat after last stabilzer is fitted before final sanding, priming and painting (once motors and propshafts have been fitted). Have also made good progress on the cabin superstructure which has now started to get this "Solent" closer to the eventual finish line! Not much more can be done this week as starting Nights tonight, sometime good to have a break though!

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Neville, toilet rolls, problem, especially if you have a cat!!!. 3 screws at the stern, 1 central 2 at the corners under bollards, leaver up with thin screwdriver. 1 each side of the rear deck hatch. 1 each side opposite the cabin rear hold down bollards screw fitted in inboard side of each one. 1 each side rear of the forward hatch. 1 each side forward hatch, again hidden by bollard screw from side. 3 in the bow area. PS all screws in the deck are under small plastic plugs, be gentle with them as you want to put them back to seal the deck again. You should have 14 screws now, the deck is sealed with a gasket, 'O' ring, and what seems like Vaseline, and splits at the rubbing strip just behind the tyre fenders, might need a bit of a pull, going round the hull as you go. Once the deck is off, it is all in front of you. Looking down into the hull, there is a black battery plate, held down with 4 screws, the receiver and the on/off switch. I have kept the plate, but cutaway the dividing 'walls' was needed, for the new receiver etc to fit. It is not big enough for the buggy type battery, so i glued a thin platform on top for the battery to sit on. Battery is held with self adhesive velcro pads to keep it in place. 'Central hull' is the motors and gearbox, follow the long Red and Black wires back to the receiver and cut them as close to the receiver as you can, ready to wire into the ESC, i used a 'chocolate' block, 10ah. Stearn is the servo and steering linkage, nothing needed here just a smear of grease to lubricate. A couple of drops of oil on the ends of the propshaft won't go amiss. 'Battery position', i have mine on the radio plate, but with care and a little trimming you can fit it across the hull, above the propshafts, or with care between the propshafts, fore and aft. Make sure there is a side plate fitted to stop the battery fouling the rudder servo. Hope this is clear, don't force the deck be gentle Mark

Sea Queen by Rex3644 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 8/10] 46" Sea Queen Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type 55mm) Geared to a Marx Decaperm (2 Blade S Type) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 7Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese 40amp ESC - Comments: Having completed the Sea Ranger I felt it time for more of a challenge. Not wanting to buy a kit of this craft I set about my journey to create the Sea Queen for as little money as possible. Plans were sourced from eBay for £15 a 17" propshaft from model boat bits lead acid battery from Howes models and speed controller off eBay. Total spend so far about £60 and it's ready to run when the blue green algae clears from the lake. All other bits were sourced from my spares / bits box. Apart from 1 x 48 x12" sheet of 4mm plywood all the 6mm & 1.5mm was supplied courtesy of my nephew at Swallow Boats in Cardigan, he builds the real thing, and I in effect produced my own kit over 3 days whilst on. Family visit.

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi neil Not what you require. This is a bearing and frame for a shaft that extends beyond the end of the propshaft. The original design for an IC motor had the shaft much further from the hull, hence this support was required. As I advised on your other post you do not need this support. Just fill the gap between the prop tube and the hull with a triangular sliver of wood to provide support. The shaft should be no more than 3/4" below the hull at the prop end. Dave

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Neil That link for the seal is for a flexishaft drive. Totally different to a propshaft and proptube. Used by the fast racing fraternity. I am not sure it would work in your setup. Anyone used one with a solid propshaft? Dave

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Neil Sorry was in a rush this morning so misnamed the water scoop hole as the skeg. As regards the skeg you don't need it. Just fit the propshaft and then fill below with a fillet of wood as used in the original Aerokit models and mine. An oiler is useful but your shaft doesn't have one and for a novice they can be difficult to fit. Like Doug I solder mine. I see my friend Steve at Model Boat Bits stocks easy fit oilers and they would be fine if they are the right size for your propshaft. If you do get one make sure you remove the propshaft before drilling the tube and get all the swarf out afterwards. Dave

Vosper 46ins. Crash Tender by RUPERT Apprentice   Posted: 2 months ago
Hello Having just added my name to the Model Boat website I have under construction the 46ins. crash tender. Am about to add the brushless motor and propshaft this seems ok but working out what servo ,the wiring is more tricky also cooling for the speed controller, would this be better pumped through rather than scooped up? Any advice or suggestions would be most helpful.

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Neil Just seen your post re a 34" Crash Tender. The pic you posted looked like the bigger version. Your model is the same as mine as per the earlier pics. This is a small (by my standards anyway) model and works best with a light power train set up. I have a small 22xx brushless with a 30amp car ESC and 11.1v LiPo resulting in a very light model that positively leaps onto the plane. The 600 setup you have should work well but at the cost of a heavy overall weight. It is a very power hungry motor and if you overload it with too big a prop you will be able to smell the motor cooking on the lake, don't ask how I know! Regarding the hole, yes drill holes and file the slot to suit the angle. If you get a piece of dowel slightly smaller than the prop shaft you can wrap some coarse sandpaper round the dowel and use it to file the slot. Fit the prop/shaft/prop/coupler and motor and tack the propshaft in place with a couple of dabs of superglue. When set check that all is square and aligned and fill the gaps between shaft and hull with slivers of balsa and E$poxy glue. I use Plastic padding bu8t either will do. When dry sand smooth to shape. You may already have a mount for the 600 motor but SHG sell suitable mounts. You can easily convert to brushless and LiPos in the future. I agree the initial cost is high as you will need Charger, motor, ESC and Lipo battery but there are good cheap motor and ESC combinations that won't cost as much as you are expecting and you can use NiMh (NiCads are no longer used) batteries to avoid the extra cost of LiPo and charger. Happy building Dave

Blown esc........ again 😢 by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
What ESC were you using? My experience with 600 motors is that they are power hungry, smell a lot and get very, very hot. I had two in a Slipway Trent (they advise the ECO version, no longer available) and used to be able to smell them from the shore! Could be the ESC internals circuitry shut down and may start working again when cool. Any weed in your pond will definitely overload them, which was my problem. Too big a prop will also cause overheating. I had 40mm 3 blade brass props in the Trent. It's possible that the motor is to blame if it has cooked the coils and caused an internal short. Try running direct from the battery with an ammeter in circuit. I am assuming you have checked your propshaft for free rotation and no binding, locknuts can and do come adrift and can tighten up on the shaft, which may explain the slowing down you experienced. Please keep us posted with your progress Cheers Dave

Richards 48" Swordsman by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Richard your motor has a big 8mm shaft, have you thought about how you are going to connect to your propshaft? It might be too late now, but the early ic shafts where a steep angle, and really a bit far forward under the hull. Imagine the propeller is pushing up, rather than forward. If not too late (its actually not as daunting as you might think) you could do with altering the angle, so the propeller is close to the hull. Work on the fact that 55mm "x" prop will be the biggest, you will end up with 50mm or 52.5mm 👍 I did a lot of testing with my 4 foot 28, hulls are the same almost, we just have to now consider your battery and the resulting amp draw as your esc and motor are rated at 60a