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>> Home > Tags > pt boat

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Gina 2 Billing Boats Fish Cutter - Restoration & Conversion by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 hours ago
Evenin' Mike, guess you're right 🤔 Bit of a departure for me I admit, and after I'd cleaned all the crud off and realised how shoddy and weak the hull was I wondered if I'd bitten off more than I can chew😲 However progress has been made😊 I hate to be beaten! See next update 'Motorisation - Come What May!' You'll recognise the topic from the discussion on dies and threading silver steel prop shafts😉 I'm multiplexing this project with a PTB renovation and refit! Like most boat modellers 'a glutton for punishment'. Cheers, Doug 😎

What do you do when... by boaty Captain   Posted: 9 days ago
I have had this problem several times myself especially with fast electrics when they "flip" over. At present I take my old Aerokits Sea Commander with me to use as a rescue boat but there is always some element of difficulty when trying to line it up with the upturned craft. How you deal with it depends on the size of your boating lake. On small ones it is possible to have a vertical pole mounted on the bank with a long length of string attached to it. You then roll out the string and walk round until the string makes contact with your boat then slowly walk back bringing the boat to the side. Building a rescue craft like you describe is perfectly normal as I have seen them from time to time and also you see them on You Tube when retrieving usually (you guess it), a fast electric in distress. Good luck with your project and you can also disguise your "rescue boat" to look like a pusher tug etc.😁

Windows, stoopid question. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Well, the die got here today, so the shaft is now done, all threaded M3x 0.6. Still ludicrously hot, so nowt gets done outside, except after about 7 in the evening. I've also got 4 figures from this morning's boot fair that I have already started converting into RAF boat crew. Huge amounts of Milliput epoxy putty later, the action figures will have RAF uniforms and the odd hat, suitable for 1/16th scale Crash Tenders, etc. Once done, my slot racing chum will cast them in resin and they will be available for sale. Don't know how much till he gives me a price for casting. Cheers, Martin

RE ads90's Vosper Firefloat by nasraf Commander   Posted: 12 days ago
It is a little while ago since this subject was raised but I came across it to day whilst passing my time looking through this continuingly interesting web site, but for what it is worth I will outline a bit I know about the RAF marine branch. I was one of the last National Service RAF enlisted men and started my service 5 th April 1960. I was then trained as an Air Wireless Fitter at Yatesbury and on passing the reqired tests was posted to RAF Mountbatten in May 1961, this was sited on the coastline of Plymouth Sound and the marine craft were moored on the Cattewater. Not long before I got there, the main base for the RAF Marine activities was on the I. of W. at Calshot but the decision had been made, due to the great contraction of the marine arm, as helicopters had taken over the rescue task and the loss in interest in aircraft operating from water, the MU ( Maintenance Unit ) was moved to the operational station at Plymouth. Mountbatten was quite busy with various activities and it was the H.Q. of Coastal Command the other activities was in providing targets for Shackelton training, dingy drill for aircrew and survival training for aircrew on Dartmoor. All the useful marine craft were moved to Plymouth and I would imagine things like Fire Floats would have been disposed of prior to the move. All that was at Mountbatten were RTTL's of various standards, RSL's and Pinnance's. The only strange item was an old Rescue Launch which was powered by 3 Napier Lion engines, all the later RTTLs had Rolls Royce Merlin derivatives. This was the only large boat that I ever had a fast ride on, but unfortunately we were only a few miles out of the Sound when one of the engines failed and we had to limp home. I never had a fast trip on a RTTL. I used to have lots of trips outside the breakwater on RSL's on RAF crew dingy drill, when the pilot under training had to jump off the boat with his uninflated dingy and when the RSL made as many waves as possible he had to inflate it and climb in whilst the launch continued to rough the sea up as much as possible. He then stayed in his dingy for about 45 minutes which was not very pleasant in winter. It was for us lesser mortals an enjoyable spectator sport to see commissioned officers undergoing sme discomfort. I think that all the odd marine equipment was lost when Calshot closed.

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Right, gentlemen who know fings, here are shots of the wires I have. OK, I must have put the banana plugged wires in a box marked R/C Gear, I'm assuming, but the charger's wires mainly have brick red flat contact -containing plugs. However, none of my battery packs have those, they have the white things with two small round pins in 'em, one socket square, one round. The newest pack for binding duties has a little black jobby that fits the Rxs. Pictures included of all relevance. I tried to charge an old(ish) lead acid after making up a lead, but the charger put up a "Connection Break" legend on its screen. I assume that means, That one's f****d, mate. Fair enough, I thought it might be. But i still haven't worked out a lead to charge those green wrapped old NiMhs. I HAVE charged them before, because I have had two attempts at flying the aircraft. It went round in circles and then took a slate off my daughter's roof, proving that aircraft models really DO need insurance! Anyway, enclosed are three pics. The shot of a Lipo is to show that I do have such things, but that dates way back and although not damaged or bulged hasn't been charged while I've had it. It was sent to me with 2 small outrunner brushless jobbies and a couple of brushed ESCs as a thankyou for sending plywood to a part of Britain that the PO won't go to with biggish parcels. Finally....I have today received my FlySky RC set and guess what? It all works, perfectly, out of the box. It's PRE-BOUND! Whoopee do! It musdt be an upgrade as it came with a small Li-Po battery pack for the Tx. and a charge lead from USB to Tx. body. That's all great, but how do I know how long to charge it for? It currently has what looks like a full charge on it, judging by the brightness of the LEDs. Getting used to a passable impression of my son's old Subaru front wheel and tyre (complete with vented disc and caliper behind!) will take a while. I am guessing that pushing the throttle trigger forward is like a brake on a car. I assume on a boat it would be reverse? The instructions are not in any way exhaustive! But hey...on a tatty old Futaba servo it all worked a treat. Here's the pics of wires. Cheers, Martin

Crash Tender davit info... by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
See below reply from an ex RAF man The overseas colours are interesting and the link toRAF boats is really good "Hi Michael. when i joined the RAF in 1956 the boats that were specifically for the sunderland flying boats that were being decommissioned and I only saw one fire tender and the colour of the hull was black the main deck was I think bare wood with the well decks and superstructure painted grey with and the top painted white except when overseas the hull of all raf boats were white. Have a look at www.rafboats.co.uk and and you may find one on there. Regards Trev Secretary york model boat club"

Sea Queen by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
sidley70, you can use anything you like really. Subtle, rather than flash for a boat like a Sea Queen. We didn't have much flash in those days! Except for front wing ornaments for Mk 2 Consuls If you look at any period advertising it will probably have the original fittings shown on any pictures. Whilst Mersey Marine (THE period fittings company) are sadly no more, there are basic fittings available from Cornwall Models, etc. I also saw quite a few on ebay, but do yourself a favour and have a look on the Modelling Timbers website....http://www.modellingtimbers.co.uk/1.html The guy who runs it is an absolute gentleman and you will not find better quality or lower prices anywhere. Despite coming from the Isle of man his return postage is excellent. He is very friendly on the phone too. If he doesn't have it, you can also get excellent quality, service and prices from RBModels in Poland. I have bought very good model railway stuff from them, but I noticed that they also do model boat stuff. Being a tight wad I tend to make all mine that I can't get from Modelling timbers. Cheers, Martin

Seaplane Tender 360 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Hi Bryan, If you want to do the SOE version she was most likely painted all matt black! The colour of skulduggery 😉 What ever you do, despite your good intentions to retain the 'old patina', judging by the photos you are in for a complete strip back and redo. Just as I have discovered with the PTB I bought. Thought it would just be a 'cosmetic job', flatten back and respray with Pacific green camouflage. Ho ho ho! Pics show what she currently looks like after cleaning off layers of enamel, and discovering that the prop shafts and rudders were misaligned and the chine strakes glued to the paint. 😡 Never mind an engine room fire when I tried to test the 'as bought' motor installation. 😭 Since those photos I have fitted new a new chine strake and started reinforcing the thin hull with glass fibre tissue. Next issue; set prop tubes properly and make an alu bracket to mount both the motors. Then set the rudder stocks correctly. Last thing I want is to dampen your enthusiasm, but that hull looks like it needs oodles of TLC. 🤔 Be aware of what's ahead of you and plan accordingly👍 Deck looks pretty neat, if unusual for a WW2 in service boat! As far as I can tell from the photos it's not just the cabin roof which is warped 😲 cabin and window frames will also need some attention by the looks of it. Before you run that motor I would strip it, clean all parts and check brushes and commutator for wear. See my Sea Scout blog 'Taycol Target motor' for a 'How to'. Should run well with a 3S LiPo, 11.1V. These boats weren't the fastest, 28 - 30 knots I believe. Which is why ST360 was reduced to more mundane duties after try outs by SOE. Don't forget some spark suppression!! Good luck, whatever you decide to do have fun doing it, Cheers Doug 😎

Crash Tender davit info... by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Martin. The 'Deck Anti-Slip Finish' bit is on page 4 near the top. Re: Colours. As there seem to be no colour photographs or film of the boats the question of colours for the decks, cabins and roofs is open to speculation but you are quite correct to point out that the plans do not specify white for anything other than the hull markings. The cabin roofs I believe would indeed have a textured coating as the crew were required to stand on them to operate the monitors etc. but I decided not to replicate the texture as is would just look like a bad paint job! I did carefully consider the colour options when painting my boat and decided to texture the deck and paint it in the colour specified ‘BS631 RAF Light Grey’ but to leave the cabin roofs untextured and painted white as that seems to be the consensus, and to my eye it does look 'right'. It is also a great shame, as you say, that one of the most popular RAF boats were so few in numbers and not well documented or photographed during their service life. I have a suspicion that a book of drawings and specifications does exist somewhere as I have seen a few pages that appear to have 'Ministry of Supply' indexes and page references. The 'Plans & Docs' section of this site has some useful information and some 'photos and drawings but they are of very poor quality and resolution. Wouldn't it be nice if whoever has that resource were to make it generally available, I believe it's out there somewhere. We can only hope. Robbob.

What do you do when... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
I've been pondering a neodymium magnet on a derrick on the stern of my Southampton tug and steel plates set into the foredecks of my boat and ships! Still pondering, reeling in with a winch is easy, running out the cable to drop the magnet down onto the boat is causing me mechanical headaches though. 😡 Maybe just raising and lowering a suitable boom would be easier!? Any ideas folks, especially amongst you winch using sailors? First time my destroyer conked out I swam out 'in me knickers' to rescue it cos the wind was pushing it towards the lake fountains. It's NOT a flying boat! Got a round of applause and some interesting suggestions from some of the er 'ladies' present 😲😉 Second time we had flat calm on a balmy summer evening and she started very slowly drifting home. So as it was early evening we went to the lakeside restaurant terrace where I could enjoy a steak and a glass or two while keeping an eye on her progress. Hard life ain't it 😉 Whatever, I'm sure there's a more elegant solution than more plumbing than there is in my bathroom! I even once used my sharp pointed destroyer to push a failed plastic RTR so called speed boat home. Took a lot of manoeuvring with a long thin destroyer but we made it. Once I managed to get it lined up and close enough to shore a good shove with all ahead flank then full astern let it run up the shore. Was good helmsmanship practise. A simple shaped rubber block I could hang over the bow would have made it much easier! Cheers all, don't get stuck! Doug 😎 PS One other 'Schnapps idea' as they might call it here in Bavaria, I've been playing with for a while is a model of the 'Big Lifter'. It's a conveyor ship like a big powered dry dock. To take on the load she floods huge tanks and sinks herself😲 slides under the load, pumps the water out again and up she comes load an' all! Would be fun wouldn't it?😉 All the bridge and accommodation superstructure and engine rooms are in the stern. At the bow there are only two tall towers for guidance when taking on the load. The rest is just flat loading deck. Sounds simple don' it 😁 an' a lot more fun than half the plumbing dept. of B&Q. 👍 PPS: I also tried the grab claw idea of Martin's. A sort of 4 prong grappling hook. As he rightly said the first snag is to get the line aboard the stricken vessel in the first place. I tried it with one of the depth charge derricks on the stern of my destroyer. Reeling in - fine. Getting the line out ? Another kettle of fish. I considered a spring-loaded system to fire the line out IF I could make the winch free run to pay out! Got no further than considering (the spring launcher I still have) before I completely stripped out the destroyer for a total refit. Thinks, thinks, thinks ......

Fittings & Detail Parts by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 29 days ago
You’re right, Doug. Lithium shouldn’t be in contact with pond or lake water, even in tiny amounts. I feel like a dope for considering lithium at all because for 20 years I designed & detailed water treatment equipment designed to remove that kind of thing! I took another look at my N scale maintenance supplies & it turns out that the grease I have is the PTFE/Teflon type as you mentioned. Another thing you mentioned about lithium grease that’s also true is that it does indeed tend to clump & become semi-solid over time. So obviously lithium grease gets crossed off the lube list. I don’t think the Hobby Engine prop shafts have bearings. It looks to me like the shafts just pass through tubes, essentially using the tubes as long sleeve bearings. When they’re greased they turn quite freely, plus the grease blocks water from entering the boat. There aren’t any oil tubes in my boat, either. Like you (& I assume just about every scale boater) I like to run at scale speeds. Anyone who has ever seen a real tug moving along knows that they can’t exactly reach planing speeds & they’re not likely to be seen towing water skiers. All things being equal, the WYEFORCE tug, which definitely appears to be the boat Hobby Engine designed their models from, has a top speed of 11 knots or 1114 feet per minute. The model’s scale is 1:36, so it’s top speed should be 0.306 knots or about 31 fpm. I don’t think the model can run that slowly, but again I say it’s about having fun. I won’t lose any sleep if the model has a faster scale top speed than the real boat as long as it looks good doing it.

Fittings & Detail Parts by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
Hi Pete, Afraid you've found the chink in my armour😲 I enjoy solving problems and building and renovating things immensely, but I'm afraid I'm probably somewhat neglectful on the maintenance side, until it's almost too late and I'm faced with a complete rebuild😲 Anyway, unless anything happens which makes me dismantle the shafts I leave 'em alone until the end of the season and they go into storage. Then I remove and clean and inspect them check bearing wear etc. Then apply some PTFE/TEFLON grease to the bearings, refit the shafts in the tube and put a few drops of light machine oil into the oiler pipes that I'm in the process of adding to my ships and boats as they go through my 'yard' in various refit projects. Pics show the oiler pipe I added to my 1960s Sea Scout during her recent refit. The silicon tube simplifies the 'topping up' 😉 Last pic shows the completed 'Machinery Flat' 😉 I dimly remember Lithium grease. Doesn't it have a tendency to coagulate and clump over time, especially at low temperatures? Dim memory cos I was an electronics engineer not mechanical😉 Anyway not sure that Lithium is too environmentally acceptable to the 'jobsworths' in local authorities governing the use of municipal ponds these days. PTFE/TEFLON should not be a problem in this respect and it still works at lo and hi temps. If it's good enough for NASA ..... ? Stuff I use is called 'Gear-Flon', Check out http://www.gear-flon.de/Produkte/ I also use this grease in the rudder stocks, and anywhere else there is a moving joint. Keeps things moving and prevents rusting😊 There are other guys on this site who swear by various curious mixtures, but since I (and I suspect also you!) am not interested in maximum revs ultra fast racing electrics I don't think that's worth the bother. Many don't like grease of any type, claiming that it hardens or adds drag on the shaft. The jury is still out on that! A smear of PTFE/TEFLON on the tube bearings, a few drops of light machine oil after every run, including the motor bearings (if your running brushed motors KEEP IT OFF THE CARBON BRUSHES!!!), and I'm happy. So are my boats so far, Cheers Doug 😎

what have I got? by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
Bryan, that appears to be a Fast Patrol Boat. I don't know that it was a kit one, although Aerokits did one, but it looks to be a very nicely done model. You certainly can't get those batteries any more, Ever ready being long dead as a company, but please keep them. They are more museum pieces than the boat! And that motor is something interesting. If you want to replace it with some modern rubbish, I'd be interested in buying it from you for my "Maverick's collection of Unfeasable Motors". I would be tempted to leave the finish as it is as that is so typical of the period (late 50s), but rarely seen any more. It's a very nice boat and deserves to be kept in period. These boats for real, were not that fast, despite being called High Speed Launches, so you don't need some screaming brushless in it. A 400 brushed would be sufficient. Some suitable decals on the hull sides would finish it off nicely. You could paint those side windows dark gloss grey to represent glass from a distance. Cheers, Martin

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Doug, I just ordered that one off ebay. Odd how the exactly similar looking one I'd seen sad it didn't do remaining capacity of NiMhs. Never mind. So I now have a multi meter and a battery checker. No need for ESC worries as this is in a yacht, no ESC required. Bummer about your PT boat, but it seems to be what ESCs do, from what I've read. I found 2 the other day and I've no idea where they came from! Both the same with a bit of ally section as a heat getter ridder (what are they called?). But I don't need anything for motor boats just yet, although my Darby One Design will be needing it all soon as will the Crash Tender. But that's another day, another question. Cheers, Martin

Paint job by CB90 Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Installed hardware used brushless 2860 4050kv motor with water-cooled mount and jacket, kept prop-shaft at a low angle. It drives really well to the extent that its too good to race so I have started again with another boat for racing.