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>> Home > Tags > pt boat

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Triton by Krampus Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
With my boats getting routinely stranded in the middle of nowhere, I felt compelled to commission a rescue vessel and "Triton" was born. "Triton" is a Springer-type tug push boat. With a hull and superstructure consisting of an “Indiana” style command cabin, it was built using a pretty basic birch plywood American kit designed for swimming pool water polo. Kit altered to resemble a fictitious Salvamento Marítimo (Spanish Coast Guard) unit following Salvamento Marítimo’s actual boat markings. Equipment and deck layout inspired on actual Springer tug push boats supporting larger vessels and barges found in US and European ports and rivers. Model built during September – October 2015. Approx. 1/18 scale. Real life boat could be a 30-footer (9.14m) vessel. Equipped with 9v LED navigation lights and sound system. Powered by an HPI Racing 1145 Gt 550 Motor, NiMH 7.4v battery, a 3-bladed 44mm propeller, and a 6-12V 320A RC Ship & Boat R/C Hobby Brushed Motor Speed Controller.

Masts, mast steps, inside the hull, the rudder by Jerry Todd Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
The model's lower masts are made of white cedar. These were cut square, a taper hand-planed in, made 8-sided, then round. The bands are the same brown paper tape the hull was covered in. A visit to the real ship in Baltimore to get measurements, and look at some artifacts netted me some bits of live oak original to the ship. The Navy began stockpiling live oak for ship-building in 1816 with the Gradual Increase Act. It was from these stockpiles that Constellation was built. These trees were as much as 200 years old when cut, so this wood I have could be as much as 400 years old. I wasn't sure how to incorporate this bit of the ship into the model, and opted to make the mast steps from it. One piece is the size of a business card and stamped USS Constellation 1854. I'll stamp the year she's finally finished and my name into that and install it as her builder's plate. The masts step on what I call her mechanical decks. These are simple 3/8" plywood panels where her mechanics and controls will be mounted. Beams were epoxied into the hull for them, and they are held in place with brass wood screws. The aft deck is where the mizzen steps and the rudder servo is mounted. The battery lies on it's own deck just abaft the main mast as low as it can possibly be inside the hull. The cross-section drawing shows deck beams, decks, ballast rods, the external ballast, etc etc etc. The rudder is made from Plexiglas as shown in it's drawing. A brass tube passes through the stern that the rudder's head just fits into. There's no room behind the rudder head for a bell-crank setup to work, so I again went with real boat tech and installed a tiller, made of copper plate soldiered to a set-collar. There's a couple of pictures of the aluminum tubes for the ballast rods in there. You may want to right-click on an image, like the drawings, and "View Image" then click on it to see it full size and legible. Use the browser's "back" button to get out of that.

PT Boat 673 by AllenA Lieutenant   Posted: 9 days ago
Magnificent beast wcolombo. Any chance of a video?👍

PT Boat 673 by wcolombo Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 9 days ago
PT Boat scale 1/20 length 1.22 m, Motorization one brushless motor and two 550 14 v motors , fiberglass hull, superstructure in acrylic laser cut, details in resin and 3D print.

Fairplay X - Plastic Magic! :-) by saintsalvio Commander   Posted: 18 days ago
OK it is evening and I am relaxing so I can post the photos you required, remember my videos on you tube: and just now I am adding a video of the new trailer I adapted from a simple 1/10 rc car trailer for my new (used almost vintage bought in brilliant conditions from a German friend on ebay) super air nautique wakeboard boat to join with my rc defender land rover RC truck eavily modified: please comment!

BATTERY CHARGING by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Hi Joe I would not have the ESC and charger attached at the same time. You could use a heavy duty double pole two way switch or just unplug the ESC and plug in the charger, best option in my opinion. Mains chargers for SLA batteries will limit the voltage and current but they are susceptible to transient surges from the mains which could produce a similar surge to the ESC if connected. You should also be aware that Lead Acid batteries (includuing SLAs) can in certain circumstances give off highly explosive gas and in an enclosed space any spark could result in a big bang that would not be good for the model or anyone in close proximity. If you really have to charge in the boat make sure there is plenty of air space and take care when attaching and removing the leads. This applies to the charger and the ESC leads... Take care Dave

RAF rttl D2763 by teejay Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 28 days ago
A brief history After the second world war and as part of the occupational forces the Second tactical air force the RAF took over Sylt airport in 1945 and later in 1946 the RAF decided to use the airport and the airspace west of Sylt and Amrum as a firing range, and was known as RAF Sylt Armament Practice Station. From February 1948 to February 1949 the airfield was closed and prepared for the operation of jet aircraft. For target practice a target towing Squadron was stationed continuously on the station. The aircraft used were Miles M. 25 Martinet, hawker Tempest TT, DE Havilland mosquito TT. 35, Gloster Meteor F. 8, Meteor T 7. For instruction and training flights the flight also had some DE Havilland vampire T. 9s, hawker Hunter F. 4s, Hunter T. 7s. The aircraft of the target towing squadron were housed in the hangar of 402 near the South West of the Station. Therefore, the unofficial designation of weapon training squadron 402 was used at the time. For patrolling and securing the range area, as well as for rescue and training operations Marine Craft Section boats were stationed at List and Hörnum, Bristol Sycamore HR 14 rescue helicopters were Also station at RAF Sylt. Air traffic control boats and HSLs were stationed in the port of List at the beginning of the fifties (see pictures) D Boats In 1954, the decision was taken to replace the air traffic control boats and the HSLs with RttLs mk2s Rescue Target Towing Launch. As part of the rebuilding program to help the German economy the boats were designed and built by Krogerwerft Yard at Rendsburg. (Later taken over by Lursson ship builders) and were numbered D2762- D2766 these boats came in service mid 1955 which explains why my Father severed on both HSL and D-boats (preferring the D-boat) D2762 and D2765 Based Hörnum, D2763 and D2764 from List, with D2766 as a reserve boat in the event of maintenance or breakdown, Their design was very different to any other boats in the Marine Craft Section/unit more like the German Schenllboot or S Boot (allied code name 'E' Boat which my father always used), with flared bows and rounded bilges and powered by high speed diesels. The D boats were fitted with winches for Target Towing, these were removed as the boats duties were change to Range Safety and ASR These boats only served with the RAF, until 1961. Two were sold to the south African Air force D2762 and D2764 in1961, and the other three handed over to the Federal German Navy in 1961. All were subsequently used as ASR craft. D- Boats in German service The German Navy, the “Bundesmarine commissioned them on 1.9.1961 as FL 9 to FL11 and were used by Marinefliegergeschwader 5"naval aviation Squadron 5” Until end of September 1975. the three were termed as air traffic control The fate of these three boats is a bit uncertain, one of these boats was in the process of being sold as NVG S1 as a North Sea supply boat, this deal fell through and the boat was sold to private owner in Italy (no further record for this boat found) the other two boats are said to been scraped or de-commissioned , however these boats are quit properly the two that ended up in the service of the Spanish customs service as cutters, after they were confiscated when smuggling, I have tried to contact the Spanish about these boats but have not heard from them and presume they were scraped or sold in to private hands ( there is the suggestion that they were driven on rocks and sunk, no evidence found) D-boats of the South African air force/navy The two boats that were obtained by the south African air force in 1961 were originally known as R30 and R31 and they served under SAAF until 1969 when the unit was taken over by the south African navy and R30 became P1552 and R31 became P1551 these were changed again when holiday makers referred to the boats as PISS1 and PISS1 too R30 to P30 and R31 to P31. Both these boats were diffidently sunk R30 Lost off Saldanah Bay on 7 October 1988 after striking a reef off Danger Point. R31, near Cape Point, after she grounded through contaminated fuel issues There are somethings about these boats that strike me as odd, The originations that took over these boats, they don’t like to mention the fact that these were ex-RAF or British boats, There is no record of the Spanish boats, it is said that they were sunk but no details are available except what is said on one form. I think I have done as much looking for information as I can, most of the bare facts are stated so thanks to all those web sites and forms that I have used and the pictures I have used I would like to thank to Dave M for the drawing And thanks to the marine craft branch museum for their help and for putting me in touch with Mr Rick Mortby who built the museums model of the D boat And a big thank you to Rick Mortby for the scale drawing and for his trust. And to Dr Christian Ostersehlte historian for Lurssen shipbuilders for the pictures of my Fathers boat D2763 and now I can start the building of the model D boat

Slowly does it. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I would say you've achieved your main objective magnificently 👍 The hull is looking really good. But the shaft angle is maybe 3 times the optimum, based on looking at my Aerokits Sea Scout layout and Sonar's advice! Looks like there is plenty of scope in the hull to mount the motor further forward and much deeper and still be able to fit a pretty large prop. But bigger isn't always better! Not really my expertise but would guess with 50mm you risk overloading the motor!? I'm sure the experts here can advise you better on that than I. You may also find the boat more responsive to the rudder if the prop thrust is directed at the rudder instead of more below it as it seems to be now? Cheers Doug 😎

Taycol Test 2 with reverse :-)) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Success 😊 First attempt as per cct with + &- from bridge connected to field --> Zilch 🤔 With + & - outputs connected to brushes and the two ~ to the field coil --> perfect, Full power F and R 😊 Confirmed my suspicions! Pic 1 shows the breadboard lash-up. Pic 2 input waveform to brushes forward power, average 'DC' positive. Pic 3 input with reverse power, average 'DC' negative. Pic 4 typical current drawn near full power @ 6V. Well within Taycol spec. Pic 5 shows the waveform with the motor in standard 'out of the box' setup, complete with sparks! Have also videoed the change in waveform with 'stick' movement. 😊 I'm happy with that. Will now tidy up the layout and make a compact board for boat installation. Tomorrow is another day 😉 Cheers all 😎

3 Footer on a very rare outing by Westquay Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
PT boats maybe, but Crash Tenders were not as fast. 30 knots isn't that quick and if they went everywhere on the plane they probably wouldn't have the fuel to get home! 2 Meteorite V8s are a very different matter to three Packards! pmdevlin, it's difficult to build heavy if you follow the instructions. Mine is built to Aerokits instructions , has a Taycol Supermarine and used a lantern battery (which Dad used to get for nothing) and it would do a nice scale speed on its marks. Martin

3 Footer on a very rare outing by BOATSHED Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Was't that the idea of the real ones they were built to plane as were the M.T.B's to get there quickly. To put out the fire's and rescue men from the water. I thought that's what the side net's were for. If you watch the film's PT109 and They Were Expendable and there is another one I have seen I think it was Called Dog Boats at War. In fast, send out torpedo's and get out fast. They look much better with them up on plane than just plodding through the water. Peter Du Cane designed them for that. I have a book called An Engineer of Sorts.

RSS Sovereignty P 72 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Folks, think there is a bit of a mix up here! What Cpt. Cormorant seems to be building is the Coastal Patrol Craft introduced in 1970, and subsequently transferred to the Police Coast Guard, where they have long since been replaced. The boat in Cormorants pic was commissioned in 1971. See pic from RSN official site - History. They were a Vosper design, based on the 110footer, first boats built in UK the rest in Singapore. John: the class you are talking about is actually the 'Fearless' Class. RSS Independence being pennant number 87. They were built by ST Marine (Singapore Technologies) and commissioned from 96 (Fearless) to 98 (Independence). Pic 2 is of one of them, RSS Resilience. This class is now being replaced by 8 ships ( Independence-class littoral mission vessels) being built by ST Engineering. Our company helped ST with the Integrated Comms System design for both these classes! RSS Independence pennant number 15 (replacing #87 as you say John) is the only one currently in service. This info may not unfortunately get Cormorant much further but maybe it'll help prevent chasing wild geese! Cheers 😎

MFA Torpedo 850 motor by camyaj Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
I use these in my S-Boot and PT boat both driving 3x motors ie MFA 850's and Graupner 600's those Blue or pink ones I had trouble with as with Not electronize but the other ones.They are car ones and you could probably get similar ones in the UK . They may be chinese amps but they handle 40amps plus no bother

Miss Geico 29" by BOATSHED Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Martin (Westquay),I have seen the yacht's on Clapham Common Long Pond But sadly I don't seem to find them at all interesting. The same with thing's like Tugs and barges. I started when my dad and mum bought me an Areokits RAF Crash Tender for my ninth birthday. Rather than ruin the kit, my dad got me to draw round all the parts on old tea chests that he had got hold of and broke up. In all we built seven of them. For my Christmas present that year they got me a ED Hunter 3.46 cc diesel engine. They couldn't afford r/c so when my real one was finished it was fun as a kid to watch it go round and round until it arrived on the other side of Blackheath Pond. Or send it in a straight line and catch it on the other side. I have just seemed to progress from there and it just seem's to be addictive to try to get more speed. I do have some that are not as fast but still quite quick. I don't go for scale speed just speed. I have put 10cc engines in things that were meant for 7.5cc. With great success. The way I look at things is if we were all to think the same it would be a boring old world. I'm not into sports other than fishing and shooting,where as I have one 43 year old son that is football mad, and one 45 year old son that is into fishing and R/C quadcopters. I don't knock anyone's likes and dislikes as that's the way of he world. I know you are NOT putting my boat down, you probably don't see power boats in the same way. I have tried to get more speed from a brand new Webra 61 by adding too much extra nitro into the fuel and bending the conrod and having it break into pieces. Stupid I suppose but that's just me. I now love these brushless motors as they are so fast. I am just a speed junkie. Who know's when I get a bit older I might just try out a yacht, but I'm only 66 and still wan't more speed. I have Just got myself a Graupner Rhode Island F1 tunnel hull with a brushless outboard and I'm hoping it goes even faster than this Miss Geico. that's just me for you. To each his own. Sorry to have gone on too long. any way have you posted any video of your yachts on here.

What type of wire? by nasraf Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
I am not sure from your original question if you were asking about sizing of conductors or on which type of conductor/insulation was the most suitable. The previous contributors have covered the size issue and here are a few thoughts on other features. From your comments it looked to me you were interested in having wiring in models you wanted to be around for a long time which is quite likely. I think my fireboat is over 50 years old now and is still stuck to gether with the original glue, but has had a number of up dates to its internals from very messy diesel to brushed dc motors. Most reasonably priced wiring is made from copper or tin coated copper wire if you need to do a lot of soldering, with pvc insulation, if pvc is irradiated this gives it a longer life. As far as I can see from my house wiring, so long as it is not flexed, ordinary pvc insulation lasts a long time, but does become brittle. In the defence/aerospace business since the second world war there have been various exotic systems used ( up until the end of the war rubber was the general insulator which did not last very long until it perished ). Various ones being silicone rubber internal insolators covered with glass fibre woven covers, this is horrible stuff to deal with when stripping, vynel with a woven nylon covering being another. With the advent of irradiated pvc and ptfe these were totally replaced. Ptfe is a very good insulator and is very stable and not attacked by any common liquids or solvents. Due to its good insulating properties the thickness of casing can be very thin, the problem with it is it is difficult to strip so you have to have a good pair of strippers. Another option in a model boat installation would be to use varnised copper wire like that used in various electrical items, solenoids, transformers etc. then stick this down on to a bed of epoxy resin and then add an extra coat, a bit like a fitted p.c.b. I have never done it but if it was well done could look quite interesting. If the radio side is a major consideration the above is not very applicable as, as has been said by others the choice is largely decided by the equipment you acquire.