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>> Home > Tags > pt boat

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How many is to Many by RNinMunich Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
a REAL scary question 🤔 1 H class Destroyer and 1 Submarine KM IIA (1:72) in SLEP (Service Life Extension Programme!) 1 KM pocket Battleship Graf Spee & 1 HMS Belfast (1:128) in Fitting Out Dock. 1 Tug Southampton ca 1:50 ARTR 1 Kentish Fishing Boat ca 1:50 inherited restoration & motorisation project 1 Sea Scout restoration ARTR, built by my Dad 50 years ago! 1 flying boat ARTR 1 Hovercraft needing painting & RC gear fitting. Potential 'Plastic Magic' :- 1:350 Bismarck, USS Enterprise (The Big E), HMS Hood, HMS Ark Royal, Airfix HMS Illustrious (Invincible class) & T45 Daring 1:72 Revell Flower class corvette, German Lifeboat & S100 class E Boat, Airfix MTB, RAF Launch, KM E Boat 1:144 Revell Fletcher class destroyer. Have started collecting Micron Radio gear for the conversions. And JFF an Airship! Ready except for the Helium needed! Plus many 1:400 1:600 1:720WW2 navies plastic kits & etched parts JFF & to hone the skills I should live so long ! Help 🤔 Cheers from Munich Doug 😎

Kingfishers Model boat club by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi Martin Kingfishers MBC are not listed in our club sites so it's possible we have no members from this club. However they did ask Mayhem to list their club in 2008 with the following details "We are The Kingfishers Model Boat Club. We meet on the third Monday of the month except December in Sutton Bridge We sail in Long Sutton on Wednesdays and Sundays We are just off the A17 just in Lincolnshire with members from Linc's, Norfolk and Camb's, for more info contact 01406 350968 or 01945 584241. It was 9 years ago so this may not be current but a polite phone call may elicit the current position. There is another post from 2012 suggesting "Spalding club meet on Sundays behind the NFU offices in Springfields If not The Kingfishers Model Boat Club meet in Sutton Bridge and have the use of a lake in Long Sutton and one in Sutton Bridge. Good luck and I am sure you will find somewhere to sail. Dave

Battery problems by Patto Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 10 days ago
G/Day All Thanks for all of your advice. I have a 2 blade 40mm prop and the shaft is running free. i originally running a Johnson brushed motor with no problems with power except it and the esc i had got extremely hot. i could not find a water cooled brush motor so that is why I got the brush less motor. It is very hard to get model boat parts in Australia. Maybe it might be easier to put the old motor back in, i have now got a water pump so i maybe able to make a cooling system. Cheers Allan

Recovery vessel by canabus Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi All We tested one today using PVC conduct covered with pool noodles which is a high density foam. We used hair elastic bands to hold the recovery boat to the device which also handles different width boats. The other end is faired out to help capture the other boat also if only a push is required. The forward sections can be un pinned for transport. The test today worked well on the unrequired to be rescued tug. The PVC tubes are sealed in the T sections and the removal sections forward of the joint pins.

First post... by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Wayne I do believe my friend is the best person to speak with as he does a lot of self build fast boats. Good luck with the sponsons the process you describe is proven but I suspect you will have a steep learning curve from being a novice. I do know Darren uses Kevlar in his models to make them structurally strong and light. I understand your logic regarding ICvElectric but high speed runs need to be kept straight to avoid the boat overturning so they tend to be of short duration in any case. As you already have a couple of model running on brushless I suggest you get them operational and see how they sail. You will then be in a better informed position to plan a way forward. If you can find a local club they will be able to offer hands on help which should help your progress greatly. Dave

NORTH WEST SHIP SHOW by coastal1s Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
For the third year, the North West Ship Show will take place at Old Christ Church, Waterloo Road, Waterloo, Liverpool on 30 September 2017. Organised by Coastal Shipping magazine, there will be exhibitors and traders from across the UK with books, photos, postcards, model boats, collectables, ephemera, boat kits and artwork.

First post... by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi midlife306 Welcome to the site. Impressive looking model and its will look spectacular once painted. Is it mainly wood construction? If so are you intending to cover the wood inside and out to protect against water? If you are intending to use IC engines you need to find some where to sail as most waters prohibit their use mainly due to the noise and pollution. The hull is a fast racing hull that would suit a brushless set up with LiPos. There are many configurations and I suspect a surface piercing prop is one option. I suggest you find a local model boat club near to you and go and see if they run fast race boats. There is a section on this site for Model Boat Clubs that will help you find one locally.Hopefully they will be able to guide you into the best set up for this hull. I have a fellow club member who is really into speed and he sources his bits from Prestwich Model Centre but also from the States. Please keep us posted on progress and do keep asking for help and advice, it may just save you from making costly mistakes. Dave

Motor upgrade by colindavies Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
I hope so Dave. I ordered the motors and esc's from Hobbyking Tuesday PM and the arrived this morning 36 hours from order to receipt, very good. Now as this my first dabblings with brushless motors and esc's I have a few problems, which I hope somebody may be able to help me with, I bought a hobbyking esc programming card, there are no instructions with it although it seems a quite straightforward operation to set the required values. Part of this is working out what each item is 1) Running mode. Ok choice of three, forward/brake: forward/ brake/reverse: Forward reverse. (easy enough) 2) Fixed area accelerator: 6%:9%:or 12% (??🤓) 3)Battery Low Voltage Protection. 6 settings from non protection to 3.4v (probably set at no protection as using NiMh) 4)Start Mode (punch): 9 levels, which one? 5)Reverse Force: 4 levels 25-100% (ok self explanatory) 6)Timing Set: 5/10/15/20/25/30/automatic ( which one ) Bearing in mind what the model is (not a competition racer);what I require of it is forward/reverse; port and starboard. I do not require it to take off like a scalded cat with just the props and rudders in the water. Acceleration from stop to max in about 4-5 seconds. I had about a 50 year gap in model boat making until about five years ago the last one i made was when I was 15, although in the years in between I did get to play with the real things when I was in the RAF. So if you do have any advice remember you are telling a person on the wrong side of 69😋, and thanks in advance

HMCS Sackville - WWII Corvette by gordc Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
About 25 years ago I started building a Stuart Turner double 10 steam engine and soon after, I decided to build a boat to put it in. The photos show how far I've got. It's a model of a WWII corvette, HMCS Sackville. The original ship has been restored and is on display in Halifax, Nova Scotia. I've built it to a scale of 5/16" to the foot in order to have a displacement of roughly 40 pounds, which I figured I would need to accommodate the steam plant. It has an overall length is 65" and a 10" beam. The 5/16" scale also means that I have to make all the fittings for the boat from scratch. I'm working on the 4" gun right now. I had the hull in the water for the first time last September and discovered that the pitch of the propeller needed increasing and that the boiler couldn't make enough steam to keep the engine running at 600 rpm. The boat just sat there going nowhere. I've increased the propeller pitch and enlarged the burner orifice on the centre-flue boiler to increase the heat input, so I hope to do better this summer.

solent lifeboat stanchions by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Cliff I used 1/8" diameter brass tube from B&Q. Made a jig and drilled each post with two holes to accept some brass chain I bought bt the metre from SHG supplies at one of the E. Port shows. Mine has sixteen either side and are 90mm from top to deck. I made a small shaped brass piece to cover the open top of the tube. I have seen others using flat strip of a similar size. If you use the lifeboat tag on your post you will find lots of posts, keep selecting "see more" and you will find pics of solent models. I am attaching pics of my model and hope this helps. If you are after a true scale version I suggest you look on the Mayhem site or the Lifeboats 24 site. If you or any other viewer find my answer helpful please feel free to tick the "like this post" box. Dave

Part 2. The searchlight optics. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
The reflector that I originally used for testing came from Maplins and was not a particularly good fit and it also produced a broad diffused light, but I found another lens from the same supplier that could be adapted to fit and would produce a much narrower 10° beam. The lens body was too long to fit into the searchlight body so I 'ground down' the lens on some abrasive to a size that would fit using progressively finer grades of wet & dry paper. The lens was then polished with some cutting/polishing compound to restore the optical clarity.🤓 The original and modified lenses are shown in the 'photos. The lens now fits perfectly into the searchlight body and produces a much narrower and focussed beam of light. I cut and shaped a piece of 1mm clear perspex to form a protective cover over the lens to hold it in the searchlight body and make it waterproof. The searchlight on the real boat has a 'tri-form’ protective cage with a centre boss (my description, there’s probably a proper name for it ), this part is not supplied in the white metal kit so I constructed one from some 22mm copper plumbing pipe, some brass pins and a hand turned and drilled brass rod for the centre boss. These parts were ‘soft soldered’ together as silver soldering would be quite difficult because of the different heat gradients. Before final assembly I will paint the parts gloss grey and secure the optical and protective lens with some canopy glue which will form a flexible seal and won’t ’fog’ the lens as superglue would, and then epoxy the 'tri-form' cage to the front. Hopefully the end result will be well worth the effort and do justice to my brother’s lathe skills!😎

Dumas PT109 by boaty Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
I have been considering buying a Dumas PT109 kit. Has anyone had experience of building one of these? I had a look at the set of parts and it looked a nice detailed build but the kit seemed very heavy for a model of that size. As it is a PT boat it will need some speed but I am hesitating now as to whether it would fulfil expectations due to its😎 weight and there doesn't seem too much room inside to accommodate the motor, battery and radio etc. Boaty

raf crash tender by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Dave, good to hear from you (sorry to hijack thread). 4 footer came out two years ago, Huntsman once in 2016, Its over 3 years since the 3 footer got wet! Orca once in 2016. I did build the PCF which I really liked, but it went immediately as too many people messaged saying they wanted it, so it funded some RC plane gear, which I am really into now. I sold a load of bits and bobs at the Blackpool show a few months ago, didn't renew with St Helens in 2015, or 2016, and wont this year. However.... Robs excellent blog has got me interested again, and Stephen kindly did a bespoke 3 d printing project on something rc related, info and pics to follow when its finished! Back on track... George, I'm going to advise only things I have done, or used, I'm not one to say do this, or that, but actually I have not done it myself. No doubt others will disagree, but this is my opinion only. Best performance in terms of speed is brushless, and lipo. Forget fear of fire and explosions, this only happens with abuse, and they are the common use with rc planes, helicopters, cars, its only boats that are really stuck in the dark ages with technology that have this big fear of brushless systems and lipos! However, to get initially set up, they do take more understanding and initial cash outlay, as you need a specific charger for one, and you do need to understand what you are doing. Brushless motors will unlease the power far more than brushed, and are usually lighter. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/tu rnigy-t600-brushless-outrunner -for-600-heli-880kv.html This motor is an example, there are much cheaper ones with similar specs, but I have used this motor in various applications, the most similar to your boat being my large Huntsman, with this motor on 6 cells lipo I achieved 25mph, but speed might not be what you want. So if you have the fast engine in your car, say a v12 Ferrari, if you run it on cheap fuel, it wont perform, same here, nicads and nimhs batteries are easy to maintain, you can drain them dead flat, but will give cheap fuel performance, like a bath tap trickling when the shower is on at the same time, and as they are dying technology, are expensive for what they are. Lipo is like turning up both bath taps and the force floods out, but now the tank will empty quicker, so you have less run time 😊 If brushless, its a specific speed controller, https://hobbyking.com/en_us/ho bbyking-50a-boat-esc-4a-ubec.h tml and you pay extra for reversing (other rc disciplines don't need reverse) and a marine esc might need to be water cooled, however, decent brushed motor speed controllers are not exactly cheap, so now you know why budget is important to give advice, you could be spending £100 here just to get up and running. Look at my 4 foot fireboat build blog, as its twin screw (personally a boat this size is better twin screw) you can get by with cheaper motors, mine where £30 the pair, I use lipo for all my boats, so I have the batteries, and are familiar with using them, the speed controllers where about £40 the pair, and if I was buying batts then probably another £40, so it all adds up! Single screw, less batteries. You could power with nimhs, and it might be acceptable ,performance for you. If your location is Ellesmere Port, have a Sunday morning drive to Hoylake, then New Brighton, and maybe take in St Helens Liverpool, and Runcorn, see boats in action, see what sort of performance suits you, and rethink the budget, what do you want to spend? Then you need the transmitter and receiver (if you don't already have these) the fittings (see Robs build blog) a prop shaft, and a suitable propeller I am North Wirral, you are more than welcome to come and have a chat and see some boats, but unfortunately I'm deep into another rc project for the next few weeks, once that is done I can share some time, if you want! Don't worry, I'm not all about speed, I can do brushed motors and nimhs and get a result, Any questions, just ask, Paul PS... Looks like a nice clean boat you have there😉

Marking the waterline. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
This is the bit that I have not been looking forward too very much as I recall making a real hash of it on my last attempt as an enthusiastic teenager . I had read a few blogs and forum topics on this and there seem to be a number of techniques employed to do this including the use of pencils on blocks, bathtubs and talcum powder and lengths of elasticated string all of which I’m sure will eventually achieve the desired results but I think I’ll adopt a slightly more ‘Hi Tech’ approach. First of all I don’t really know how the boat will sit in the water until it’s completely fitted out and finished and even then the waterline could look wrong so In the interests of scale accuracy I have decided to work from the Vosper drawings and do it ‘to scale’ because in reality this model will spend more time out of the water than in it so I’m not too bothered if the true waterline is a bit off. As I’m quite a ‘DIY’ buff and I like tools and gadgets so I decided to treat myself to an early Xmas present and invest in a Bosch laser level, the model I chose has a self-levelling feature and projects very fine and totally accurate ‘cross hair’ lines. I know I will find this gadget useful for lots of DIY projects so I don’t mind the expense, (as I decided in self-justification!) The Vosper drawings were used to scale from to accurately mark the waterline points on the bow and the stern and then the hull was placed inverted on the bench. The laser level was clamped to a stepladder about five feet away and then the hull was raised/lowered on blocks fore and aft to get the horizontal laser line to hit the bow and stern marks accurately. The point at which the laser line crossed the rubbing strakes seemed to correspond with the same positions as per the Vosper drawing so I’m quite confident with the measurements. A pencil was used to make a series of dash markings on the hull following the laser line. The hull was then spun 180 degrees and levelled and the ‘laser guided’ marking process repeated. Joining the lines across the transom and some measuring confirmed that the waterline was the same on both sides at the stern. A final check was made by standing the hull on it’s transom and projecting a vertical line along the keel so that the projected horizontal line intersected the points at which the waterlines crossed the rubbing strakes, happily they did so within a couple of millimetres. I applied some good quality masking tape around the hull, paying particular attention to the points where it crosses the strakes, in preparation to masking and spraying the ‘anti-fouling’ red oxide paint.

burnt out sail winch by twofloats12 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
> 😟 i have burnt out two sail winches type http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayI SAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1211732 84235 they both got got caught around the main spline (came off the drum) have opened them up and found all ok except circuit bourd power in nothing out i took a bourd for a 90 degree servo and soldered that to the potentiometer and and was working well in rig on the bench put in the boat and now stopped can any one help we ideas as to what im doing wrong thanks mark