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Skeg by robbob Fleet Admiral! Posted: 13 hours ago
Excellent work Michael👍. My second attempt a making a skeg for my boat was passable (eventually). I overdid the silver solder and spent ages filing the surplus away.....less is more, as they say. I finally mastered silver soldering with some of the later brass fittings I made, fortunately you also have a lathe and clearly a great deal more experience than me. Robbob.
its a"pibber" this is the boat martin sheen used in the film "apocalypse now", first job for me would be get that cardboard flag off and find a silk one that will move in the wind! good fun looking boat though, and the jet drives mean iy could operate in shallow water👍
I guess it could be sealed up. The opening to the jet drives is small. You can't get your hands in! The opening which is under the 50 cal.on her stern. is meant more for working on the jet drives! To grease if you will! You could maybe spray some kind of sealer! But why have to fix a brand new boat! I was told I had gotten a leaky boat. As for her sitting low. It's just the design of the thing! As the jet drive pump water. the boat digs into the water! Don't get me wrong it's a great looking boat! I sent mine back, the wife wants me to get another one!
Hi I have the Billings version as does a fellow club modeller. Initially I used two 300 motors with a 12v 1.3amp battery placed in the rear cabin space. Good for about 4 mins then died. I now use two brushless 28xx size 30 amp ESC and an 11.1v Lipo 2.1 amp. My friend has a similar set up. Gives about 30 mins and exceptional speed. The lipo sits where the SLA was. I can understand your concerns about the lack of warning on your Mtronic but you can source battery alarms that will emit a loud noise when the cell voltage gets below the set voltage. Providing you are paying attention you will hear and bring the boat home. The running time will be similar on each occasion so you could also use a stop watch (on your phone). I have tried NiMhs but they lack the power and are nearly as heavy as the SLA.
When you say leaks from the jet drive, is it not seal able yourself. I know you shouldn't need to being a new boat but is it just a bad seal that can be rectified with sealant ? I like the look of the boat it rides the water well at speed. But it does seem to sit very low in the water at slow speeds.
The Robbe factory was sold off probably with most of the moulds and equipment when the company got into difficulties. There are some kits available and Cornwall Model Boats stock the available range. I would check the Krick site for their postal charges to the UK. The demise of Robbe and Graupner was a big set back for model makers universally and its a pity many of the resources were lost before a rescue was possible. I agree with Doug E-Bay does have them listed occasionally and I have seen them at Model Boat Shows bring and buy sales. CADMA is possibly the next show (2nd - 3rd Jun), the Mutual Model Boat club appears to have moved to September not forgetting The Model Boat Convention on 25th - 26th August.
Personally I wouldn't say you were nut's. It's people like me that are probably the nutty ones. Without your help some of us would be left in the dark with some of these small motor's. I do not understand how to work out the electrics. So your help that you give is a great thing for numpties like me. To buy a IC engine and stick in a boat was an easy task. But Brushless i'm lost. So many places have banned IC's we have to now rethink. Keep you help coming PLEASE.
"The max current is the Max Watts divided by the Battery Voltage." Hmmm! Dave, I=P/V works fine for DC and static resistances but it gets much more complex in a dynamic system like an AC motor, which is all a Brushless is. Don't want to get into rms and power factor and co here so I agree the wattmeter is the way to go to find out what's really happening. Normally (at least here, not so sure with China!!) the max power output is quoted at nominal voltage and max efficiency. If you (can!) trace the motors back to the original manufacturer they publish performance graphs showing efficiency, power vs current and volts. But who does that? Except nuts like me😉 According to the DC formula the ECO 600 would draw 131A at 11 Volts or 97A at nominal 14.8V. The real 'Black art' is then to work out what power you want/need for how much thrust, acceleration and top speed for a given boat and hull type🤔 Best way is to ask those who've 'Been there, done that'. That's why I appreciated very much Canabus' advice when I was looking for a brushless for my Sea Scout upgrade👍 Happy sailing all - Whatever pushes your boat! Doug
[Score: 5/10] 29" PT109 Twin Propellors (2 Blade S Type 35mm) Direct Drive to a M500 (2 Blade S Type) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through HM50 ESC - Comments: EBay purchase... 20 yr old Lindberg kit of an Elco 80ft PT boat, a bit battered with no motor/ESC or RC - only tested in the bath at the moment! PT109 was the craft JFK commanded / got rammed by a Japanese destroyer!
Dear Modellers and builders of the Vintage Model Works kit series. You will find my earlier pictures and various writings on the original earlier postings by me in OZ of my still some 30/plus years Crash Boat in which I wore out several I/C motors and my girl still runs in Salt Water at the local LAKE ILLAWARRA in New South Wales and you are somewhat fortunate with ready made fittings. I did not ever know of the "page" ( wish I had a copy ) on your wall of the rear well of fire hose details and fittings , wow what a bonus, as a colonial had several years till Peter Dimberline and I had contact and he helped me to authenticate my vessel. The ESSENTIAL secret of the Crash Boat is the spray rails. So many look toy in the videos and TOOOOOOO fast . The spray rails are doubled at width protruding from the hull and lesser at the point of "rise of the wood " towards the upper bow point. The depth is not too critical at a bit of about an eighth of an inch thickness or a bit thinner for the whole length as you do not want to see a "thick log ", rather again it is the width rather than depth. I know I have written on this before on this webb site in the past. The turns thus on the go become when starting on and STAY more on the go are more flatter rather like a full sized hull which has a planing/ flatter hull turn to the flatness of the water than a typical poorly behaving model boat hull which invariably heels TOOOO much and somewhat digging in , (in turns). The HARD CHINE hull design was meant to not only rise to a comfortable plane attitude but ALSO to turn without that annoying behaviour of "digging in" when it should still perform and exhibit that hard chine design attitude when in a turn . "Digging in" equals water resistance AGAINST the hull and loss of performance and loss of plane attitude and against wave resistance when the hull designers team is trying to maintain hard chine performance in the forward turning direction. I harp on this point that this hull design is one to respect . The older I get the more I expect of all my model machines that I am lucky to see on computers, as we certainly have more need to respect the masters, the likes of Peter Du Cane and T E Lawrence and Hubert Scott Payne of Vospers and Thornycroft and The British Power Boat Company and ELCO and Higgins, all of whom I have researched so much over my life and I have been to the memorial of Lawrence in the desert in Wadi Rum. I try to do it right. Regards to all builders Lyle. My mates and I have to run in 2 to 3 inch chop at times, such is the Lake Channel ! My wife has reminded me that some of my fleet do seem to have BLACK hulls and I only would build one model boat, when I bought the Aerobats Crash Boat home, the pictures are of some of my scratch built fleet.