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>> Home > Tags > pt boat

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Loch Ranza by ChrisG Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 40" Loch Ranza Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 100mins Geared to a MFA 919D series Powered by Lead Acid (18v) Batteries - Comments: I bought an unfinished Graupner paddle steamer kit which was in a bit of a state and spent many happy hours making her look loved. The hull and paddle wheels were in an acceptable condition but the deck and superstructure left lots to be desired. The previous owner had purchased the motor which was 50.1 geared and pushes the boat along well all other bits including 'smoke' brass portholes and new superstructure added by myself. She was a delight to finish and looks an absolute dream on the water.

Brixham trawler IBEX by cenbeth Admiral   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Samnewbie I have a Cariad which is wooden hulled at twice scale. I decided to use a false keel but as I bought the hull completed needed to retro-fit one. I agree with you! If you can fit the tube as early on as possible it will make life a bit easier. My keel needs to be about 12kg and the tube is a couple of inches behind the mast. I am still trying to cast the keel; I'm now on my fourth attempt! I have calculated the keel weight and plan on it being about 1kg lighter than need be. This will allow me to finely trim the boat up once complete. Good luck with yours. Edward

Transfers by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Hmmmm!! Waterproof? Have you ever tested that? I'm not so sure, having used them in the office virtually since their inception. Anyway, when they are mounted on the boat / ship they need sealing in with a coat of clear lacquer or they may sometime 'float' off again. Apart from that have not yet seen any transfer paper made for Laser printers. Transfer paper made for Ink jet printers may melt 😲 in laser printers in the final transfer / fixing unit. I can tell you, it makes an 'orrible sticky mess wot ain't easy to get rid of. Doug

The Building Board by Ianh Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
I made this from a 54" long piece of Melamine shelving. shallow cut a centre ine down the middle 1/16" wide. The board was then marked into 2" squares using a laundry marker. The design concept was from a fuselage jig I had made by SLEC. The holes required for the brackets are M5 with captive ( T nuts) underneath pulled up into the bottom of the board. The red tape down the centre is masking tape ( the high quality stuff) this was to stop the boat glueing itself to the board. As the the keel has a skeg we needed to raise the keel to ensure parallelism I used an Enginerers Marking out block and two doorstops on this.The angles can slide and you then clamp the Bulwarks on I used thirty minute epoxy for this although I would like a longer working time epoxy. Bulwarks 3 and 4 with the motor base was also epoxied together. This was then located on the keey ( Dryfit along with the other bulkheads. A word of advice here use the cabin sides to ensure alignment. Check with a rule and squares before gluing anything.

Kingsmere Model Boat Club by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I do have several model boats with both petrol and nitro engines in them. One I have is a 48" PPT109 with a 26cc petrol engine and the exhaust has the water cooling going out via that way. It runs at a pleasant hum rather than the normal engine sound. It is a lot quieter than someone using a petrol lawn mower or a petrol strimmer. It is even quieter than most brushless model boats. Yet I am not allowed to use it on a pond on Blackheath just because of it's fuel system. I'm told that it's due to sound rather than fuel. The local council have a ranger that comes round and give you an £80 fine if you are caught using one. I find this totally stupid when they use petrol lawn mowers and strimmer's to keep the whole of Blackheath's lawns cut. I have a Proboat Miss Geico tunnel hull model boat and the motor screams when it's running but I'm allowed to run that on the pond.

Got the bits, now what?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Jim, it's a 3S Overlander which my local model shop are doing a deal on. I don't know what XT 60 is or EC3/5. I have no Deans connectors. All I have a re the 10 pairs of 4mm bullets with black and red heat shrink. I had found an adaptor from 4mm bullet to Deans male, but it's a slow boat from China by the end of November and I ain't that patient! So bullets all round, I guess. Cheers, Martin

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 10 by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
sorry forgot the picture

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 10 by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Not sure your correct when you say ply doesn't bend in two directions. when building my crash tender the roof panels are a compound curve, I steamed them and let them set in a jig. I agree this will be somewhat more difficult when dealing with a full length skin but with some thought and appropriate jigs and clamps I think it can be done. Ill give it a go on my next build.

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 11 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Looks like an Armadillo 😁😁 Enjoy the filling and sanding! Cheers, Doug 😎

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 11 by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
In the words of Delboy, 'What a Planker, Rodney!' Added more sheets ply in diminishing sizes. now down to 1cm planks for the bow. Found I'm allergic to superglue fumes.

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 10 by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Quick picture of Motor Fans installed. (Black plastic is to protect motors from the glue.)

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 9 by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi thanks for your input The pictures do not show the mini fans now attached to each motor which were robbed from PC cooling fans. The boat is not a performance craft I will hopefully only pull 20 to 30A from each of the low kv motors. Spec. 2808 1400KV 14 Poles Brushless Motor Max Watt: 350W Voltage range: 7-15V Max amps: 35A No load: 1.2A

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 10 by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
This Boat is a bit experimental the main goals where for it to be light in weight, and also a more correct hull shape, also to keep cost to a minimum and as scale as practically possible. To answer the question about not using one single skin, is that ply will not bend in two directions, the sides of the hull have curves to them, the length of the hull is also curved, especially the bow but also curves to a narrower stern/ transom. The best way to skin the boat is by 60 degree planking in two alternating layers but this would make the hull too heavy for me to transport, due to back problems.

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 9 by jbkiwi Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
I would check out the water cooled back plates for the out- runners as they will possibly run real hot if at all loaded up without cooling, unless you have fans like aircraft propellers (even then and in open air they still get hot!) I would look at this seriously to avoid cooking your motors. Hobby King usually has various cooling parts, or EBay, Aliexpress, Banggood etc. Bit late now I suppose, but water cooled in-runners (around 2000kv 28mm diam) are a better idea for boats. You can buy in-runners and water jackets to fit them as I did but they need flushing after use with CRC or similar to avoid rust, (I'll be copper tube wrapping the next lot, then there are no worries)

BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Good to hear you are making progress with the noise. My ESCs are not programmable as far as I know (There may be a card somewhere). They were cheap Chinese waterproof car/Buggy ESCs with Fwd and Rev which I wanted for independent drives but for the price and how well they work, you can't beat them (about NZ $20 each) They have a very soft start (you can count the revs) programmed in as std, and the only problem I have found is that they sometimes won't go straight into reverse without quickly nudging forward and back, (just need to drive in a scale manner and it's fine.) I'll put a pic of the unit and motor in (also a brushed one I am using in the MTB (x2) which work perfectly only NZ $9.00) They have braking, FWD, FWD+REV and batt type adjustable by jumpers. Throttle set-up is simple with full FWD and partial Rev set by the sticks. Both types are 30A and never even get warm. I purchased some fans for them but have never used them. The brushless units have a fan plug on them. The squealing I have may just require a switching frequency change on the ESC (8kHz/16kHz -more RF noise on 16kHz but more efficient) but I don't think I have that option (do you have that option to try on your set-up ? might be worth a crack). The sound units muffle it a bit anyhow. Boat runs at 10mph (GPS) flat out (looks way off scale) but only needs about 1/4 - 3/4 throttle for normal cruising. Will try to put up an external vid soon. Transmitter is easily modded to twin throttles,- excellent cheap set for boats ( later model has internal aerial)