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>> Home > Tags > racing prop

racing prop
brass prop
prop
prop shaft
prop tube
propeller
propshaft
propshaft alignment
propshop
racing boat
racing prop
It's a sad day!. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
I think one of the mistakes people make is to assume that they must run their models with others of a similar ilk. That rather means a club of some sort. I say organise a loose grouping and find a river. You can buy a little dinghy/outboard combo for very cheap as a rescue boat if you can't get to the sides all round. Since the river will have diesel and petrol boats on it, you're fine. Canal Locks can be ideal and many (most) are not manned by any pretence at a Jobswuff. Some rivers have no speed limit sections, such as the River Nene and, last I looked, the Yare. So join in. There's nothing sacrosanct about model boat ponds and anyway if the Council Nazis have decided No IC, they are no longer model boat ponds, since that was all there was at one time. I ran a model boat display on the Well Creek in the Fens a few years back and we had no other than the famous AMPS man, Miller Agnew,with his Rossi powered outboards on his gorgeous tunnel hulls, models of real F1 powerboats. He came with the Cambridge club whose secretary made a point at day's end of thanking me for asking them. They had never run on a river before and all loved it. They had R/C water skiing, racing, you name it and all thoroughly enjoyed it. In the end the Police had to move the traffic on the main road opposite who had stopped to watch. A Rossi powered F1 at full chat on a river only 20 feet wide is something to see. Apparently Mr. Agnew was heard to say that "this is proper model boating". So, go rivers, young man. My, we'll be running out of middle fingers in no time! Martin

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Thanks all for the responses. Donnieboy - have thought out the plumbing, which is simplified by using a cooling pump. See future episodes! Doug - appreciate the concern regarding the red ESC wires. Have been trying to understand the rationale behind that theory. If all ESCs share a common input voltage, i.e. from one battery, what would the connection of multiple red wires do? Can understand if there were several unique power sources, but that is not the case here. Perhaps with your electronics background you can explain. Colmar - Used the angle on the scale drawing. If it were good enough for Vosper, should be good enough for me! Think it close to 7 degrees anyway. Think short shafts with oilers should help. Have heard of bushings running dry and seizing with these high speed motors. The initial props are scale versions of the originals. Rather suspect they will not prove to be ideal. Have purchased some 2 blade racing style props for a future test. They have a much coarser pitch and are designed for high speed motors. Intend to use plastic props initially as they are cheap enough to experiment with. Perhaps others have a comments on the cavitation question?. Incidentally, this is my first high speed boat too, but there is much of information on both this web site and Model Boat Mayhem for guidance. Posting questions always generates useful information. Look widely though at all types of fast models, MTBs, RAF launches, E Boats etc. - it has all been done before!

Interceptor by CB90 Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
[Score: 8/10] 24"/2000g Interceptor Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 10mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 35mm) Direct Drive to a 2958 watercooled (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 6Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Unknown 200A (100Amps) ESC - Comments: Zoom 1 (Interceptor) Mono boat. Built from a Glassfibre hull, brought on Ebay for £35 the hull is a slim mono racing type with a self-righting side cabin it runs a 1400W 14V 2958 4200KV Brushless Motor and 29-S Water Cooling Jacket with additional air cooling fan. I did not want to use a flexi drive as high maintenance and prone to failure so the shaft runs via two universal joint one at each end. the propeller is a 38mm copper alloy The ESC is a 200A and water cooled the twin rudders supply separate water one for the motor and one for the ESC. The rudder are positioned to reduce prop-walk and are hinged to prevent damage if hit a object in the water and ride adjustment. Turn fins and trim tabs for ride adjustment were provided by a spares kit for another boat. also foamed and added an inner sealed hatch, a rubber bump strip and safety loop. The Boat is fast and over-powered used at half throttle, may use a 7.4v lipo instead, the self righting works well. 20th April 2018 while running on 11.1v the boat stopped, no response on retrieval It was found that the manufacturers battery connector had melted and the connection lost see later pictures. the battery was made by FLOUREON and was a 35C with 5500mah capacity the 80A fuse had not blown.

Devil in the detail! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I'm with you there Skydive 👍What Boatshed means is the part of the rudder in front of the stock. Thinks: are you building an Offshore Power Boat or a scale Lifeboat? If the former then follow Boatshed's recommendation. If the latter and the rudder is 'scale' then leave it alone. Any braking effect, which usually is only significant in a fast racing boat model or other fast planing types, can be diminished by reducing the rudder servo throw at the TX. One should also consider how the original behaved, maybe they did 'dig in' maybe not. There has to be a reason why such rudders were developed, and surely not just to annoy modellers 😁 One more minor point that struck me - Ouch 😭 Your prop struts! "not that it provides a huge amount of support but adds to the scale appearance." Even in a model they can be important. To help reduce potential whipping of the propshaft, especially if the model is overpowered. Actually in the originals they were vital, especially in larger vessels. The purpose of these struts, in larger vessels 'A' frames, is to provide support to the end of the shaft which carries the prop weighing several tons and, more important, to carry the bearing for the outer end of the shaft! Actually in the originals the shaft tube, or 'Stuffing Box' would not extend significantly beyond the hull. Thus the strut or A frame was vital for the shaft end bearing, fitted immediately in front of the prop for maximum stability. Attached pics of my HMS Belfast (sorry don't 'ave nutt'n smaller with this feature🤔) show the arrangement. Have witnessed such construction in various shipyards around the world. Last one in UK was the first T45, quite an experience! 😲 In the end she's your boat, if it feels good do it! 😉 I would leave the rudder alone if it is 'as fitted'. 👍 I make my struts and A frames from brass sheet and tube. Cheers Doug 😎 PS Stick with the brass Donnie! 👍

Zoom 1 (Interceptor) by CB90 Commander   Posted: 3 months ago
Zoom 1 (Interceptor) Mono boat. Built from a Glassfibre hull, brought on Ebay for £35 the hull is a slim mono racing type with a self-righting side cabin it runs a 1400W 14V 2958 4200KV Brushless Motor and 29-S Water Cooling Jacket with additional air cooling fan. I did not want to use a flexi drive as high maintenance and prone to failure so the shaft runs via two universal joint one at each end. the propeller is a 38mm copper alloy The ESC is a 200W and water cooled the twin rudders supply separate water one for the motor and one for the ESC. The rudder are positioned to reduce prop-walk and are hinged to prevent damage if you hit a object in the water and also for ride adjustment. Turn fins and trim tabs for ride adjustment were provided by a spares kit for another boat. also foamed and added an inner sealed hatch, a rubber bump strip and safety loop.

Up Grade NDQ speed boat by CB90 Commander   Posted: 3 months ago
This is not a build but a modification of a cheap Chinese boat just for fun, I got a bit bored of scratch building projects as they take so long especially as I am not retired yet. The NDQ 757 Coastal Brother 1:25 Radio Controlled Racing Power Boat cost about £25 each from Amazon. These boats have a basic 27mhz radio and two 380 type motors which have forward and reverse and you steer by powering one motor or both for straight ahead. I bought two of these boats as they are light and about 24 in long, one to convert/upgrade radio, esc and brushed motors. The second was to upgrade radio, esc for brushless motors. The brushed motor version I put in two higher rated motors (390) with cooling fans built in, but same motor diameter but longer body I had to modify the mounts, kept same couplings and shaft/propellers. I did remove trim tabs (fixed) and replaced the straight running adjuster for a racing rudder. The brushless version is the same but has brushless motors 2x 2845 2600KV sensor less Specifications: KV(RPM/Volt): 2600KV RPM: 50000 Max Current: 42A The boats ran well but trimming needs attention, as hull is curved up at the back so trim tabs down, to prevent proposing, in-fact at one stage the boat left the water, but need to distribute weight towards the bow. Tried on 3S (11.1v) for brushless went well but got slightly hot after 10 mins. 7.4v for brushed also got slightly hot after 10 mins., and went nearly as well as the brushless. Surprised!!

Too Powerful Brushless ? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Graham That sounds much better and will move your boat at a very fast speed. I must reiterate my previous advice repeated by BOATSHED regarding the extra support for the prop shaft at each end and adjacent to the bearing. Unlike brushed motors, brushless accelerate to their KV rating at a very fast rate and if your installation is not solid (as concrete) you will experience all kinds of problems, all costly, and often terminal (personal experience confirms this). Finally do get a wattmeter and check the amps and wattage whist holding the boat in the water. If either are above the rating for the motor, ESC or battery you need to reduce the prop size. I can't emphasize this enough as the consequence can be an explosion on the water and total loss of the boat and all its equipment. Asw you have mentioned 10000 mA I assume you will be using two 5000Ma batteries in parallel. This is OK providing you use and electronic coupler between the batteries to disconnect a discharged battery to ensure no one battery discharges below the recommended value. These are not cheap and personally I would use one battery and change to a new battery when the first was depleted. I accept that if you are in a racing situation this may not be possible, but I suspect as a newbie you are using for pleasure purposes. I hope you will now be able to proceed to install the new motor and prop shaft and supports as suggested. Please keep us posted and I look forward to seeing your model on the water

Too Powerful Brushless ? by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
sorry to bore everyone with repeated info, as a similar question was posed recently. I agree with the fact that shaft is too thin, it very much looks llike a fibreglass very light racing boat set up, now this doesnt mean you cant go fast with your boat, but you need components that are up to lugging a big heavy lump of wood around the pond, not a lightweight feather😊 I have 5mm shafts, less whipping. and I have oilers so they are lubricated with oil rather than grease, just my preference. You can get these shafts from shg marine, they will supply with push in aceteal (probably spelt wrong!) water lubricated bearings, real cheap, so you can change then every season if you want. The shaft has to be supported, where it exits the hull, just put it through another piece of ply, and fill the void with epoxy, and double up the former thingy it goes through in the same way. (pic) The prop you used is the wrong blade type, thats probaly why it fell apart, plus the soldered on blades are a weak design for higher speed, simon higging is one piece, but at this stage, still testing, you can get plastic "x" blade ("s" blade are less speed)_ props again from shg marine for a few quid each, then you can test a few different sizes. If you jump in for an expensive brass one, and its wrong, its wasted money. As a starting point, 35mm, 40mm and 45mm, if you dont have any way of testing with data logging etc, you are doing short runs, with the smallest first, and seeing if the motor gets hot etc, and what sort of speed you are doing. My brushless motors are generally 800 to 900kv, and achieve 25mph in four foot heavy hulls, you want lower kv for torque, not high kv high rev motors. I got into thsi 10 years ago, thwere was NO advice around then as it was new tech in boats so I learnt the hard way😭 When (if) you go to a brass prop, the "cleaver" blade design (pic) works well, I did extensive testing with my Huntsman and fireboat and was lucky enough to have Simon Higgins testing props with me on my boats, again because what I was doing, large scale boats, but going very fast, was unique, and the cleaver design was the best at the time. Forget the fear of lipo, and brushless, they go as slow as your throttle stick is pushed, 👍

Too Powerful Brushless ? by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Graham, all agreed with you post. But. The last photo looks like the blades are soldered or brazed on, that is a week point, but looking closely the blade appears to have sheared of above the hub. Your hull is not really a high speed hull, so a racing prop might cause instability, i would suggest a cast prop, (propshop) and possibly 3 blades 40 - 45mm with your 1100kv motor would give good speed combined with good run time. The 5mm upgrade is also a great idea. A rule of thumb is don't exceed the diameter of the motor. Mark

Too Powerful Brushless ? by Traiderman Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Mark, i have a 4mm shaft fitted and the boat was out of the water at the time, it happened when i just touched the throttle! i thinking maybe a 5mm shaft would be good (less whipping)with a racing propeller and a 1100kv motor with a rubber heavy duty coupling, i think that would be a good setup and will be suitable for a 3ft boat. i think the brass propeller is just not built for high revs, or was it a 1 off badly made propeller? anyway would that setup be good? thanks Graham

Too Powerful Brushless ? by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
HI Graham. Every picture tells a story!!! The motor is definitely wrong, its designed for racing, low torque, mega revs, not for scale boats. What diameter is the shaft tube??? looks thin??? did the prop shear in the water?? would explain the vibration and damage to the shaft mountings, try a Raboesch shaft, with a ballrace at the motor end, great quality, also they do a huge range of props, google the name there site will come up. Mark

Too Powerful Brushless ? by Traiderman Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi All, a lot of info, i need a complete change to the power train setup. canabus setup looks good, i think i will follow that. what size in diametre prop shaft did you use, 4 -5 mm? have uploaded some pictures of the boat, complete with offending motor! and 1 of the resulting damage to the 3 blade brass propeller, which i think was out of balance, so, can't take the speed of rpm? probably need a racing propeller? There is room for 2 lipo's in parallel. Thanks Again Graham

Too Powerful Brushless ? by Traiderman Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Mark, i don't have excess to a lathe, do they sell prop shafts already loaded with bearings? or racing props? Thanks for your help Graham

Too Powerful Brushless ? by Tica Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
HI there With that setup you are trying to make a boat fly :-) Several members of my local modelboat club is running the same setup as I do with my Classic. And that is a Graupner Compact 260Z 1380KV for the Classic 2S is more than enough and 3S will still make the Queen fly over the water. So a 1100KV on 3S with a 3 blade semi racing prop will do a great job. You could also cut down on amount of "S" on your existing setup and program the ESC to slow start.

Motor problem by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Hi Richard, looking at the markings on the motor case, it might be a 550 type, and rated at 7.2 volts, so it would seem to be at the top end of its capacity, did you manage to get the prop diameter? also is it plastic or brass? A 600 motor is a bit larger size and power wise but would still fit your motor mount, they are common in power drills so usually have plenty of torque, but can be power hungry. A prop to suit would be about 40mm, 2 blade or 35mm 3 blade both in brass, plastic props tend to be racing types with deep cuffs on the blades, possibly the cause of the burnout! The 850 is a lot larger and more powerful but would need a new mount and again is power hungry, probably needing 12 volts as well. Have a look on ebay 600 motors are about £5, but check to see what the rating of your ESC is, needs to be at least 20amps, although if it survived cooking the old motor it must have a good rating. Add a 15 - 20 amp fuse for protection. Just had a thought, is the prop shaft stiff to turn? should spin freely without the motor connected, might have old oil or grease in the tube causing excessive drag, this could cook the motor as well. A pic of the prop and its size would be a great help. Hope this helps Mark