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>> Home > Tags > radio

radio
radio control
radio
HMS Erebus by Gdaynorm Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 22 hours ago
I am not an electric sort of bloke. What surprises me with the problem is that everything worked well for a long time. She has basically the same set up as my other ships, basically simple. Battery, speed control, two motors turning two shafts, with shafts lubricated. The battery fully charged, the radio and receiver set up okay, motors run with no problem when fed current directly, and no problems with prop shafts. Maybe my best bet is to simply obtain another control same as original. I get the impression the Duratrax is meant for cars?

Speed controls by RNinMunich Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 day ago
"As an ex flier I do believe all engines had the throttle idling with the stick fully back and I have always associated forward with stick up leaving backward for stick down." This might be the clue! This is what I meant by TX mode. I note that Grandpa has a Spektrum DSM set, he may have it in Mode 2 the usual flier mode, as my DSMX 6 was delivered. If so first of all maybe switch to mode 1 to put throttle (full range) and rudder back on the right stick Channels 1 and 2. Then check the TX programming (offset) on Ch1 and centre it. Then worry about the ESC. Had a similar discussion a few months ago with Andy at Micron Radio Control about the set up for some miniature receivers for my plastic magic! Still getting to grips with programming the Spektrum. Until then all Sea Trials done with the old MC-10 40MHz kit. 😎

HMS Erebus by Gdaynorm Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 day ago
Erebus is of course long finished and sailing. However, a strange electrical fault has occurred. She will be sailing beautifully, and then just stop. Wait a minute or two, and she goes again, only to do the same again! The problem cannot be with the radio or receiver, as steering works when engines dead. Anyone have any ideas?

How many is to Many by RNinMunich Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
a REAL scary question 🤔 1 H class Destroyer and 1 Submarine KM IIA (1:72) in SLEP (Service Life Extension Programme!) 1 KM pocket Battleship Graf Spee & 1 HMS Belfast (1:128) in Fitting Out Dock. 1 Tug Southampton ca 1:50 ARTR 1 Kentish Fishing Boat ca 1:50 inherited restoration & motorisation project 1 Sea Scout restoration ARTR, built by my Dad 50 years ago! 1 flying boat ARTR 1 Hovercraft needing painting & RC gear fitting. Potential 'Plastic Magic' :- 1:350 Bismarck, USS Enterprise (The Big E), HMS Hood, HMS Ark Royal, Airfix HMS Illustrious (Invincible class) & T45 Daring 1:72 Revell Flower class corvette, German Lifeboat & S100 class E Boat, Airfix MTB, RAF Launch, KM E Boat 1:144 Revell Fletcher class destroyer. Have started collecting Micron Radio gear for the conversions. And JFF an Airship! Ready except for the Helium needed! Plus many 1:400 1:600 1:720WW2 navies plastic kits & etched parts JFF & to hone the skills I should live so long ! Help 🤔 Cheers from Munich Doug 😎

The servo mount. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi Paul. I have ordered some ball joints from CMB so I'll try one out on the servo arm anyway and leave the clevis and adjuster on the tiller to see if it does the job. My radio is a Turnigy TGY-i6 from Hobbyking. I think it has the features you mention but I'm definitely a newbie to digital radio systems so this is all new territory for me. Thanks. Rob.

The servo mount. by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi Rob, personally I would keep the clevises, it will make fine tuning much easier than the ball and socket. As Dave said its about 35 degrees, but you radio can play a big part here. I use a spectrum dx6i. So I have dual rates and exponential settings, and use these when at speed, and then going slow. I wont bore you with this as you may know what I am talking about, if not let me know Ill explain, but I need to know if your radio accommodates this, virtually all digital transmitters will have this. Paul

Jaydee by captaindodo Petty Officer   Posted: 11 days ago
Built 1961 by my father with ED Mk4 diesel engine and his own scratch designed and built radio/receive r ( I have all his design documents). He raced it successfully in the early '60s but hadn't used it in years when I inherited it. Have now replaced the IC motor (mothballed carefully) with MFA Torpedo 500 but it runs a bit slowly ("river cruising" scale speed). Looking to obtain semi-planning but not racing speed.

The radio aerial & handrails. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi Bill. Congratulations on your first posting...don't be shy. Being a larger model, at 1/12 the scale, the detailing is probably easier as a result. Now get back to that corvette and get a build blog going 😁 Robbob.

The radio aerial & handrails. by billmcl61 Apprentice   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi Robbob, Dang that boat is big, been following your very impressive build for a while now, I just had no idea of the scale of it until I saw it in it's cradle. And at last I've finally made my first post. Perhaps now I'll get my finger out and make some progress with my wee corvette. Regards Bill

The radio aerial & handrails. by Mataroa Captain   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi Robbob i must say you did incredible job on the RAF Crash Tend and done it to such a high standard in model boating thats me.I sent you a pm Cliff

The radio aerial & handrails. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi Boaty. Thanks for your encouragement, all the detail work does seem to take a long time to do and I'm learning new skills all the time. It will never be a masterpiece but I will certainly be something that I'll be very proud to show off... not sure where though. My day off today so I may pay a visit to Verulamium Park in St. Albans and check out the small boating lake there. Anyone got any good advice or tips on parking and access to the lake and what the boating is like there?. Here's a recent pic so you can see the progress so far. Robbob.

The radio aerial & handrails. by boaty Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
I am highly impressed with your attention to detail. Cant wait to see the boat finished.It will be a real masterpiece. Boaty

Sweet Sue Steam Launch by sandkb Admiral   Posted: 15 days ago
I built this vessel from scratch using a pre made clinker fibreglass hull purchased from Mini Steam Australia. The engine is an oscillating twin cylinder and the boiler is a 3" Centre Flue Gas Fired Vertical Boiler from "Miniature Steam". The gas tank is a 1-1/2" vertical refillable GasTank also from Miniature Steam Pty. Australia.The vessel is radio controlled with the skipper appearing to control the rudder. It has a smoke generator and a rc controlled steam whistle.

"Sweet Sue" by sandkb Admiral   Posted: 15 days ago
Video of the first start-up and test of "Sweet Sue" in dry dock. All went well ! Had two sails on water since.I built this vessel from scratch using a pre made clinker fibreglass hull purchased from Mini Steam Australia. The engine is an oscillating twin cylinder and the boiler is a 3" Centre Flue Gas Fired Vertical Boiler from "Miniature Steam". The gas tank is a 1-1/2" vertical refillable GasTank also from Miniature Steam Pty. Australia. The vessel is radio controlled with the skipper appearing to control the rudder. It has a smoke generator and a rc controlled steam whistle.

The radio aerial & handrails. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Only the aerial base is supplied in the set of white metal fittings so it needs a rod added to complete it. First I bored out a hole through the base using a 2mm bit in a pin drill and then I used a short length of 2mm brass rod for the aerial. This rod was tapped with a 2mm thread and a nut filed to a round profile used as an end stop on the thread. I left sufficient thread below the base for fixing through the tapered aerial base, cabin roof and the reinforcing piece on the underside of the wheelhouse roof. The upper end of the rod was fitted with a hand turned knob as a finishing piece and for safety and the piece was sprayed with etch primer and two coats of white gloss. Finally I tapped a 2mm thread into a small piece of brass which was glued to the underside of the roof for the piece to screw into. The handrail bases were bought on-line from Polly Model Engineering and are 3½" gauge stanchions, normally used on steam locomotives, along with some 3/32" stainless steel rod and 8BA fixing nuts and washers. The fitting of these was quite straightforward but the two rails on the wheelhouse roof need to be bent to follow the roof curvature. The rods are fixed into the stanchions with a drop of thin superglue.