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>> Home > Tags > radio

radio
radio control
radio
Layout and Limitations (con) by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 hours ago
I have just looked at mine and attach a photo. I suggest you mark with red tape the same connector on each exciter in the same way mine is marked. If neither work yours are wired differently so reverse the wires and mark with a dot of red paint. The circuit board is integrated with the rx so you will need to buy electronic switcher units for each auxiliary function. Have you decided what radio you intend to use? Ideally you need a spare channel for each auxiliary, but there are other options that work with lesser channels. Choose the radio and we can advise on the switcher units.

Layout and Limitations by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 hours ago
If you are keeping the smoker, follow the leads into the circuit board and mark them same with the lighting. Cut close to the board and the same with the plug leads from the hull. Join them together (solder is best with heat shrink) that way you retain the plug and play to the superstructure. Also by removing the radio board a little of the top weight is removed.

Twin motor control problem by John Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 hours ago
Hi Dave, I have used two radio systems Planet and Spektrum to see if that was the problem. The problem is the same with both. If you use either ESC and motor there is no problems. The esc were connected direct to the rx and are now connected via a mixer unit. I can not understand how it is fine on the bench but not in the water. I have tried lifting the transmitter to see if is about the height and walking away to see if it distance. Back to the water tomorrow with new ESC's. John.

Twin motor control problem by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 hours ago
Interesting. What radio system are you using? Can you try just using one motor and ESC at a time to see if the problem is still present? You mention a mixer but assume you are now connecting the ESCs direct to the rx?

Twin motor control problem by John Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Twin 550 brushed motor Pt 109. Motors run fine on the bench (forward and reverse). When in the water the boat goes only in reverse despite the direction of the stick. Have tried another radio and have the same problem. The motors have independent viper ESC’s. Originally it used a cable splitter and then used a mixer and the problem remains any ideas?

Varnish by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hola Alan, Try Deluxe materials Ezekote or Clearkote. Here a possible source in Spain. Montse Martínez (Samarkanda miniaturaS) 08014 - Barcelona SPAIN Tel & Fax: (+34) 93.325.44.24 Email: info@samarkandaminiaturas.com www.samarkandaminiaturas.com Radio Control, Miniatures, Plastics and Railway FEWELL BUSINESS, S.L. Import & Export Carretera Comarcal 1413 Km. 35,5 08140 Caldes de Montbui, Barcelona SPAIN Tel. +34 938 655 830 Fax.: +34 938 655 340 Email: lourdes@fbsl.es www.fewellbusiness.com Good luck, Doug 😎

Fairplay V (Hegi) rebuild / refit by Radiosailor Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
Today my Fleabay find arrived in a big box: O dear... ...Nothing wrong with the new hull, paperwork consists of some printed scans with the main drawing in just A3 format. That drawing doen't show any measurements, but partnumbers. The superstructure and wheelhouse are... well, they show 'some' patina. (cough) Since there are no other drawings of the used parts everything must be expanded to the correct size, and then made/build. Thinking about using thick foam sheet material for frames and ABS sheet for the deck, so I can speed up the process a bit. (not having to paint any wooden parts, and use epoxy for bonding) Thing is tough, I need to decide which engine, propellor, shortnozzle and battery combination will be good. (another tread over here) Let's hope that hull is as good as it looks once I'm trimming off the excessive material... it might have become brittle over the years. The plan is - as soon as the hull, deck & hardware are done - get her on the water with the old wheelhouse. Meanwhile I can build a new one using 0.2 and 0.5mm ABS sheet.

Propulsion Hegi Revell Fairplay V tug model by Radiosailor Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
I just recieved a big package today containing the remains and the hull of this Fairplay V. The included paperwork included a A3 sized scan of the original plan. But this plan only shows partnumbers instead of measurements. Indicated on these original plans are a 60mm diameter propellor, and the Marx Monoperm Super Special (what a name!) with reduction 3:1 in it. A choice which seems undersized to me compared to the (same era & comparable size) Bugsier Tug from Graupner which has a Decaperm. For the moment I tend to go for this 12V low Rpm Xdrive 555. It has 25Nm of torque and doesn't need reduction. And combined to a Raboesch propshaft - which one can easily shorten - will help to get the driveline as far aft as possible in the boat, leaving more room for a bigger battery.(Or have the possibility to trim the boat with the battery and have the battery as deep as possible in the boat.) I'll check these mentioned forums too, thank you for the advise.

Propulsion Hegi Revell Fairplay V tug model by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Radiosailor I was not familiar with the model so have just searched. The Tug forum http://modeltugforum.com/ has an article by a member who did some mods. If you register you can see the pics and ask for advice. Regarding fixed or steerable nozzles they both work better than a standard prop. For maximum effect the steerable works best and this will certainly be the case with a single prop. I have had both types on tugs but mine were twin screw and I could turn both on the spot with independent motor control. From the motors you have I suspect the Xdrive 555 may have the best torque which as Doug said is best for Tugs. There are several suppliers but without knowing any measurements it's difficult to point you to a specific site. It should make into a nice model and will certainly look the part on the water. If you look on Model Slipiway's web site http://www.modelslipway.com/ they have a kit Al Khubar and AZIZ which are twin Kort. There are links to build blogs for the AZIZ which may be useful. Model Boats and MMI also had featured articles on builds for Al Khubar.

Propulsion Hegi Revell Fairplay V tug model by Radiosailor Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
That's the sort of information is was looking for! Thank you very much! I have three motors from which I would like to choose one for the Fairplay V tug (30" long, 9" wide, about 3 Kgs displacement): -Graupner Speed 500E 12V / 12.000Rpm / 0.4A -Monoperm Super 6V / 5.000Rpm, / 0.20A -Motraxx XDRIVE 555-1 12V / 5.900Rpm / 0.25A (The 500E would be run on 6V) I have a Robbe Rookie Navy speedcontroller (6-12V) max 35 A. And haven't bought a (lead)battery yet. Which one would be best?

Propulsion Hegi Revell Fairplay V tug model by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Radiosailor, have a look here http://www.mobilemarinemodels.com/kort-nozzles-69-c.asp might give you some inspiration. Cheers Doug 😎

What to do???? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Hallo Kathy, my sympathies and commiserations, I also lost my Dad a little while ago. This a basically a UK site but we have very active members all over the world, including the US and Canada, so if you post some photos (or even a simple list (text catalogue with name of ship, type if you know! and size) you may get some responses from your side of the pond. Some of our US / Canadian members have connections to maritime museums and may be able to help you. Or may even want to buy one of the models! Even if static models many of us like the challenge of converting them to functional models. RNLI stands for Royal National Lifeboat Institute, it is the UK organisation which provides and maintains the lifeboat rescue services around the British Isles. It is totally funded by voluntary contributions, no government funding. All best wishes, Doug. In case you wonder about the site name RNinMunich; I'm English but have been living in Munich for over 30 years and my first radio control model was a Royal Navy ship!

What to do???? by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi Kathy Sorry to hear of your loss. Are the models static (display only) or radio controlled models? Most charities are usually willing to accept donated models, and the RNLI may be a good starting point. If they are RC then you can advertise on this and other sites or even e-bay. Museums do sometimes accept particular models but they often have a vast collection already and many are in storage and not on public display. As a start you could take pictures of the models and post in the Forum under for sale and see if there is any interest. Don't post your e-mail address or telephone number to avoid getting spam. I usually just put a location like Cheshire UK to help identify your location.

Fittings and finishing by Novagsi0 Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
Have been making steady progress on the Huntsman. Few additional fitting I acquired and me mom has been busy knitting boat fenders front and for the sides. Amazing she can almost knit one as faster than I can chamfer a cork in the lathe to fill it with. (pictures attached). I'm not sure the masking tape she attached them will cope with the speed and the wet. I guess I need to secure then with some brass cleats or posts. My next Job. Also attached the windscreen not as much trouble as I thought. Radio is in and the Torpedo 850 motor installed.

Billing Boats Banckert (Maasbank) by Radiosailor Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 26" Billing Boats Banckert (Maasbank) Single Propellor (4 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (6v) Batteries - Comments: Build in the eithies... used thin ABS material for superstructure, wheelhouse and funnel & mast. MonopermSuper 6V for main propulsion and Monoperm 6V for added bowthruster. Has working lights and soundmodule with speaker. It's recently sold to south Germany and will be sailing on the 'KoenigsSee'.