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PS Waverley by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Martin, My stanchions were pre-drilled, from Graupner ca 30 Years ago. Never 'eard of Modelling Timbers. Timber stanchions!!!😲 I "only" had to drill the holes in the decks (thought that was what you meant), there were enough of them. Much worse though was fitting all the two part portholes 😡 Since fibre glassing the the hull I have to do that all over again😭 Frankly I think anyone who gets so many stanchions made as castings without pre-drilled rail holes need his bumps feeling. I thoroughly agree ref mini drills, too easy to snap fine drill bits. 👍 For precision / repetitive drilling I use my Proxxon mini milling machine as a drill press. If I need more than one of something I knock up a simple jig (usually from hardwood taken from demolished old furniture) to hold the work piece in the machine vice attached to the milling machine cross bed. I took the irritating collet fixing off the mill and fitted a real 3 jaw chuck 😉 Happy 'Vincenting', All the best, Doug 😎

Voltage increasing via regulator by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
OK, Understood, I think! If you just want to boost the bow thruster why don't you just fit a small 12V (or 11.1V LiPo) just for that? Frankly I might start with an 9.6V batt before I jump from 7.2 to 12V. I assume it's just either On or OFF, i.e. no ESC. As you can see from the specs of your Booster, as the output volts increase the deliverable current (for a given input volts) decreases inversely, as I predicted! Ya don't get summat for nuttin! Soooo, you need to carefully check the specs of the thruster motor; max voltage, current at maximum efficiency versus volts applied! That will tell you the max volts battery that you can safely and most efficiently use, and you can check if your booster can deliver the required current at the voltage needed. I'd just use a separate battery and a servo operated micro switch, but then I'm just a dumb engineer!😲 Bon chance mon ami👍 Cheers, Doug 😎

Voltage increasing via regulator by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
A somewhat confused question if I may say so Eric!😲 You can't 'regulate up' only down. The regulator's job is to produce a constant lower voltage from a range of higher voltages. I often use one to produce 5V for the RX and servos from a 12V SLA drive battery. A little 3 legged device (type LM7805) which looks just like the power FETs in a high current ESC. My version of a UBEC! 😉 What is this 'regulator' you have? Type number? Manufacturer? Photo? To get 12V from 7.2V you would need to use a Voltage converter (also known as an inverter). This works by converting the DC input from the battery to an AC voltage which can then be increased using a transformer. More elegant (and expensive!) versions use a transistor oscillator and amplifier. This uses hi-power transistors instead of the transformer. The AC output of the transformer (or amplifier) is then rectified back to DC. All this is very inefficient which is why it is normally only used for very light currents, where the losses are not so significant, and when there is no other alternative, not often the case! You can't beat the physics and you will never get the same power out that you put in. This leads to a basic design question:- What is the total current consumption of the load? I.e. the motors. A simple example:- Let's say that at 7.2V the motors draw 10Amps total, i.e. 72W (or VAmps). Assuming a utopian 100% efficiency at 12V this would equate to 6A. Due to the three stages of conversion; DC to AC, transformation / amplification of AC to 12V, AC back to DC, you'll probably be lucky to get an efficiency of around 60% to 70%. Thus if you stick 720W in you'll get around 430 to 504W out. Not much of a gain is it!🤔 Your battery would be exhausted in about 2/3 the time it is now 😡 If your motors draw more than 10A the problem just gets worse. So what is it you really want to do? If you just want to up the volts to your motors stick a 12V SLA or an 11.1V LiPo (3S) in and hope that you don't cook your motors! Frankly I don't really know why you're bothering, tugs aren't sprinters! If you want more pulling power with the existing setup try experimenting with prop sizes and pitch. Will probably achieve much more than fiddlin' about with voltage converters. BTW: All this assumes that the RX has it's own separate 5V battery supply or from a BEC in the ESC. Some clarification needed from your side. Cheers, Doug 😎

Julieth 4 French fishing boat by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi NPJ I used TITEBOND 3 ULTIMATE WOOD GLUE by Franklin International. Canabus

Mills crankcase by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Colin May I suggest that you cover up that Mills c/case. It will oxidise and the oxide won't protect it from water especially salt water.A crinkle/crackle finish or Hammerite smooth( or hammered if you prefer ) would suit.👍 When are you going to tell me what the proportions of diesel to Methanol were?👍. Approximately will do please!

ELAINE, MOTOR CLEAN UP. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hugely long stroke, Colin and I've never seen such a long piston. I am truly astonished that you got even a fart out of it, much less a run. I'm assuming it was built as a marine engine or would you say the finned barrel of an aero engine has been turned down to fit the water jacket? A very large shouldered top to the crankcase. It really is a mystery. I can only suggest home made. Martin Edited to say it's 1.36 cc., so a bit of a nipper.

Launch ELAINE, by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Good morning John, I will be trying to remove the jacket later today, so I'll post pictures and results later. As for the fuel mix, a buddy who works on helicopters at the SAS camp was helpful in this, as the motor was covered in so much crap he suggested immersing it in diesel overnight, then blow off with air line before cranking it. He suggested that as it was a diesel it should fire up on diesel with a little help from bradex easy start, but as I don't have any he said to try a few drops of methanol, 10ml of diesel and two drops of methanol from an old eye dropper. A piece of silicone pipe was fitted to the fuel line in and a small funnel, then a piece of rubber pipe push fit on drive shafts and held in battery drill. Put the fuel in funnel and opporate the drill, and away it went. Cheers Colin.

Launch ELAINE, by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Usually diesels don't throttle reliably as if left ticking over or even running slow they cooled to the point where they'd still run but not pick up to accelerate. Except the superb ED Super Hunter 3.5cc, which never went off a 2 stoke even when slowed, unlike all other small engines. It had a throttle in the exhaust right up next to the exhaust port and was a superbly controllable engine. Never could get hold of one. Frankly I'm astonished you could get anything out of such a mess of an engine, but congrats and good luck with it. Martin

Chinese props by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Apart from Octura, how the hell would you know? I use CZ 120 and CZ 121 grade brass for all my work. I once had a lump of cast bronze stick which I used for a crankcase. It was harder than steel and hated being soldered, but it was the right size. I've worked with brass for over 50 years and never had a problem. But then, I've used cadmium silver solder without a problem too! Martin

Maggie M by ikseno99 Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
[Score: 6/10] 34"/10000g Maggie M Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 120mins Single Propellor (4 Blade 50mm) Direct Drive Powered by Lead Acid (6v) 12Amp/h Batteries - Comments: A Model Slipway Kit Built by my late father in law, Frank Ballard Runs well, handles Ok with its Becker Rudder and Kort Nozzle. Maybe time for a refit

Alooooominum solder, anyone tried it?... by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Martin can you put up a link to this solder please. I used the original Lumiweld yrs ago (55) to fix the broken off crankcase nose on an Allbon Javelin Worked well and still have it running. Coated the repair with Araldite to ensure airtightness. I still have a bit of it but would like some lower temp stuff. Much obliged if you can do.

Leaking Boat! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Neville, Some intriguing suggestions here 😉 Good luck with the bicycle pump 😁 To be brutally frank! There are no short cuts to leak proofing an old wooden hull properly🤔 1 Internal deck / xyz mounting notwithstanding, if there's something wrong with the hull I want to know it so I can fix it - for good! If the probable source of the leak is hidden by some internal deck or mounting for xyz it has to come out! 2 To be honest, looking closely at your pics of the hull underside it's obvious she has had a few knocks. I would want to sand back, seal and repaint at least the red underside. Having so cleaned the hull off I would closely inspect all joints around the keel and chines and look for signs of previous water intrusion and soaking into to keel especially - potential delamination / capillary action through the keel or joints. When the hull is fully dried out and sanded back I would seal it with a couple of coats of Ezekote; the first coat you can thin with a little warm water so that it soaks into the wood better. Don't overdo it, about 10-20% water is enough. Second coat pure resin. If it looks 'patchy' give it another coat of pure resin. Dries so fast all this doesn't take long. Had to do all this on my fish cutter hull, Gina2 - see Blog! Was a sieve to begin with, afterwards she passed her ballast test with flying colours😊 See also my Sea Scout Jessica Blog. After that repeat your bath test, with ballasting to waterline, and KEEP AN EYE ON IT so you can see where any watter creeps in from!😉 If you take a short cut now you may well have to do it again (properly) some time😁 cheers, Doug 😎

LiPo batteries by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Which reminds me, Doug. Any sightings of what to me is the finest wine I ever drank (excepting Chateau d'Ychem..... Erben Merlot Spatbergunder. I bought it for a laughably low price in a little general stores in Sauerlach, a kind of quadrant of shops with a bit of parking available. I have found mention of it on the 'net, but not a supplier. So, if you do happen to see a bottle, would you get me at least three and I'll pay you immediately for the wine and the postage! Cheers, Martin

Spektrum, new, useless... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
You're painting a worst case picture. I'm not against insurance as such, just the expensive nonsense after years of a very reasonable 5 pounds a year with MAP. Why couldn't whoever bought out MAP keep with the insurers. Things go up, sure, but 5 quid to 34? Where did that come from? I don't want to join a club, any club. Why can't I get insurance on my own account? It's stinks of a con to me. And as for insuring a model yacht or effectively a glorified toy boat, that's going too far. I don't do fast boats, not interested. And frankly, if Johnny has his hands in the water of a dedicated model boat pond, that's his parents look-out. If he puts his foot on the road in front of a cyclist he gets no protection. How did we ever manage to become enthusiasts in the good old days when we could sail anywhere and not worry about it? Martin

Spektrum, new, useless... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Ed, Wouldn't have happened on my watch when I ran a production test department for Rank Telcomm😉 back in the 70s! Don't know yet if it caused further damage. I doubt it as one of the wires was severed so it couldn't send any current anywhere. If it were shorted it would just be stuck in Trainer mode (I hope!) Just quieted my rumblin' tum 😜 so about to effect repairs, more later. Cheers for now, Doug