Hi Boaty, The Taycols have fascinated me as well, ever since I dug the Target out of the Sea Scout my Dad built in the early sixties. I blogged my renovation of that and the conversion to run with a modern RC system and presumably that, and the converter boards I built for Martin (Westquay), is what triggered Colin to ask me to have a look at his Supermarine. How could I resist!? 😉 The 'smell of something electrical' is the ozone gas caused by the prolific sparking of the Taycol metal to metal brush / commutator combination. The other source of Ozone is on the coast wherever there is a strong surf! I agree, a nostalgic smell, which unfortunately disappears when the converter board is attached to make it run with a standard brushed ESC. The diode bridge kills almost all the sparks. 'Almost' so the usual suppression capacitors are still recommended. 0.1µF across the brush terminals, 0.047µF from each terminal to the motor can, or frame in this case. Earth to prop shaft tube as well if possible. The motor may not disturb the on-board electronics of your own boat, if using 2.4Gig, but could still affect anyone nearby using 27 or 40Megs. The power density of spark transmitters (e.g. unsuppressed E-motors, peaks in the upper HF bands and diminishes to almost zilch in the UHF bands. I.e. approx 300 MHz upwards. Like me and other submariners for instance; 2.4Gig is useless for subs cos it don't go underwater. Cheers, Doug 😎 But here! BTW Boaty: where are the pics of your Avanti? Harbour posts without pics are pretty dead 🤔 Cheers, Doug 😎
Wholeheartedly agree Boaty, my fleet is made up of vintage boats which I love reviving, most of them were donated to me over the last 4 years my wife and I both enjoy sailing our boats and trying to encourage younger folk to try it. I have no problem turning over control of my 50 plus year old boats to total beginners of any age, the youngest so far is my grandson who started on his 3rd birthday with a small rc boat I bought him. Now at 4 he's getting quite good and learning learning manoeuvring with my large tug Valiant which is just over 4ft and pushing 60yrs old. I have never been tired of those that are willing to learn and have a go. BTW The supermarine is mine and I am going to be installing it into my father's old sea commander built in 1957. Originally had a diesel, but the taycol is the ideal replacement. And with Doug doing the rebuild on it I will be able to use it with my modern rc system. Cheers Colin.
Just got white metal castings back of the Chris Craft fittings and very nice they are too. They have started to burnish up a treat and will polish well as Paul uses a good quality metal. Nice and hard. Now I have to make the light lenses. Also put the blue bottom on her at the weekend using my one and only pot of Plastikote enamel paint, not the acrylic muck they've turned over to and it went on through my spray gun as smooth as could be. Even my masking worked. Just waiting for a gold pin stripe tape for the boot topping now. The final bit will be masking the deck to paint the covering boards and king plank with the same blue. For those not lucky enough to have a wee pot of proper Plastikote in the paint cupboard, I also got a couple of tins of Rustoleum spray, only 5-25 a pot, enamel (of course) in a nice French blue and a rich cream. These colours will look good on my Darby One Design single stepper "WHO'S DARBY?". Very post War. I think the Oulton Broad One Design single stepper will be Burgundy and the Whippet One Design will be varnished mahogany. I know of no other classes of British stepped hydroplanes. These will all be 1/6th scale as they're all around 12-13 ft. long. I'll probably put the same motors in them eventually. The Darby is well advanced and has a Speed 400, but I may go brushless. Any suggestions for a cheap Brushless/ESC combo will be welcome for, say, 3S Li-Pos. It would be good to see these period boats all racing together. I also plan to make reverse clinker Singer cadet and a Percy See Bugatti engined boat for which I have plans. I'm hoping to get a response from the current keepers of Berylla II about measuring that, too, since it also uses a Lea Francis engine, like the Whippet.
My dad built this over a long period of time, starting in the '80s. The hull is fibreglass and the rest is scratch built from plastic card, balsa, ply, wire and anything else he could adapt. Although he installed the motors, props and rudders he never completed the RC installation or tested it. I inherited his boat models a few years ago and wanted to "finish the job", getting the model on the water. After installing the RC gear and batteries over the last few months, this weekend was the first sailing outside the bath at the Valley Gardens boating lake. Happy to report that it sailed really nicely, seems to be reasonably stable although I did restrict it to calmer times when the MTBs and faster boats weren't running ! HMS Cadiz was a battle class destroyer, laid down and launched during WW2 although she didn't receive her commission until 1946 so didn't see combat with the Royal Navy, serving with the home fleet. Due to the changeover in pennant numbering she was originally allocated R09 and later, when the admiralty decided to revert to the D for Destroyer pennant numbering she was assigned D79. To reflect this my model has D79 on the starboard side and R09 on the port side. She was sold to Pakistan in the late '50s, and renamed PNS Khaibar. She was sunk with the loss of nearly all hands in 1971 in the Indo-Pakistan war.
Huson 24 RC sailboat wooden hull. I have a small fleet of these. They are extremely stable in high wind. Bought this one online in pretty good condition. Did a lot of smoothing on the epoxy coated hull. I use West Systems epoxy because it flows so well - like paint - and doesn’t stink. Finished the MD flag on the sails.
Dear oldtimer, If you have the patience to build a plastic model and the decide to fit it out and use RC in it. Then I am sure you would be able to build a model from wood. You can buy a wooden boat kit and if you have been able to read and do what the instructions say in your plastic kit then the wooden one would be no harder. You should never put yourself down and have belief in yourself and do it. Im sure you could.
I have by luck, not judgement acquired a second hand 'Nirvana' Yacht, it is a sloop rigged craft that was only sold in America and retailed between $250 and $350 according to the revision version and the year brought. This was a bit of a surprise to me as I only paid £10 for it. The Nirvana RC Sailboat was first produced by Megatech in 2002. and is 32in long and the hull& deck are ABS plastic. The quality of the boat is unmatched in the price range, with such features as a lead keel ballast, superior polyester sails that won't mildew, stretch or tear, and fittings that make the boat a dream to sail. The mast and booms are made of carbon reinforced composite that is light and very strong. The Boat hull is in sound condition just a few scratches, there is a hairline crack in the mast area, no radio gear at all. and sails are usable but really need replacing.
On to Coating and Matting. (as well as sanding!) Now have at least finished all the stripping. Then did the ‘bright light in the hull bit’ to look for areas that needed patching. The major problem area was in the bow and that did not receive the light as it is a totally blanked off compartment. However, it was obvious from the outside anyway so, could I assume it was the only leak? Decided to put a fine matt over the whole hull, not deck, just to be sure of best chance of success. I can imagine what will be said here if it still leaks after all this! I had ordered some supplies ready for the next stage and drew up a plan view of the boat to help think through layout of electrics and other items. Made my usual mistakes about size. Some fittings purchased too small………However, never too large now that’s interesting. Some materials purchased too large. Now have a life’s worth of Resin……(when does it ‘go off’ by?) Also have a lounge floors worth of tissue matting! Also Sandpaper. Now there is a mine field. So now I know a bit more about that and which way the numbers work! When I forgot to put the mask on, I had some of the crispest 'bogies' in years.............. No images posted! On the plus side, although I never wanted to get into this stripping sanding, filling sanding, sealing sanding, matting sanding, painting sanding, painting, sanding bit……………. I now feel I started out with someone’s boat I had bought and now it has become “my boat” for real! I am at the stage now where I have put some filler in and applied the first coat of Eze-Kote from DeLuxe Materials To use Eze-kote read stuff from RNinMunich on this blog or the’ leaking boat’ thread. Washes out of the brushes very easily. There is such as this ..... Youtube link - watch?v=yP05qv3QtUk RNinMunich or Colin H. and the like have bits of extra comment and experience that is always very helpful. BTW, after that finer sanding before first coat, I did the dust down and vacuuming bit but it still felt a bit ‘chalky’ so I gave it a wipe with Methylated Spirits. Now I realise that has water in it, so if anything goes wrong it could be blamed on that................. Having left the first coat to dry I started to cut out the light matt to apply after the next sanding. The matting I have is called Glassfibre Surface Tissue EGlass from FibreGlass Direct. A part of Tricel Composites (NI) Limited. Available internationally in lengths from a metre upwards, it is quite fine in weave so we shall see what happens. I have left quite a wide margin at the moment but may reduce that when I have tried using it! This is another first for me so plenty of room for mistakes............... Will need to cover with the matt in stages as I cannot get around all the boat without changing its position. Going for the bottom of the vessel and stern board first as I figure they are going to be easier than some of the other bits. Then will leave that to cure before moving the boat. Really worried about the joins/overlaps and how well I will cope with those, not to mention the curved bit! Started to look at electrics and layout for a bit of a change. I will post again when I have had the first battles with the matting! TTFN. NPJ
Hmmm, too many old farts who can't be arsed any longer, as witness the canal club needing new members, too. It's the beginning of the "Big desertion", where those of a certain age lose their transport, their strength, their wits and, ultimately, their lives. And if the lake is privately owned, they can no doubt make more from the morons who dangle a hook all day to avoid the wife. There's a lot to be said for canals, rivers and independence. Martin (The Anarchists' Boat Club)
I have just purchased an already built model of the paddle tug Glasgow. I was going over it, and a few bits struck me as odd. The paddles seem to be on back to front, the row boat seems to be on the wrong side, and the paddle covers are stuck down, making maintenance all bar impossible. I was wondering if anyone had maybe a set of instructions, or a manual, that I could borrow or get copies of. I'm having real trouble finding anything on the net, apart from, out of stock, out of production. Hoping someone can help. Best wishes, Dave W
Fantastic stuff, Colin. If you can get that ancient engine to run on diesel from your car plus Methanol, you could get that kitchen nozzle going! Where did you just get some methanol from? I'd say the engine is something like an old ED Competition Special or similar with a very home made water jacket and even more home made exhaust wrapper, requiring tubes to be added to the 2 stubs and led to the stern or either side. Doug's yer man for anything lecktrickal. Is there actually anything of the original RC in there apart from that superb kitchen nozzle affair, which deserves to be preserved all on it's own. Control will have been vestigial at best as the engine has no throttle and the nozzle arrangement will not have had any level of proportionality to it. It will, at best, have been push the button and see where the boat ended up, knowing it could, at a a pinch, be brought back to where it started. At one time all RC was like that. My own REP set was left,centre, right, centre, etc. A wonderful throwback that must be preserved. I wish my local junk shops had stuff like that! Cheers, Martin
[Score: 5/10] 26"/1400g HMS Sabre, Scimitar-class preceded by Archer-Class Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 15mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through China 60A (30Amps) ESC - Comments: Just finish this little boat, need to have its first trial on the water to measure current draw and perhaps modify the prop size. Make sure water cooling works, and the thing steers ok, as rudder is off set. and may have to be move into the prop wash. The Motor 3650 4Poles 3060KV Brushless RC Motor for 1/10 RC Car Boat 1. 4Poles design, high torque and high efficiency. The overall efficiency exceed 90 percent. 2. Low heat production, long lifetime, strong overload protection and it can function 95% of its features without any heat sink appliance. 3. High quality materials adopted: high intense aluminum alloy anodizing shell , front and back cover , high-performance temperature-resistant magnetic steel and imported high-speed bearing. Specifications: Model: XTI-3650/4.5D Dimension: 50 * 36mm KV(RPM/V): 3060KV Poles: 4 Max Power: 1300W Max Voltage: 19V Max Amps: 68A Shaft Diameter: 3.2mm Shaft Length: 15mm Connector: 5.0mm Banana Connector. The real boat Builders: Halmatic Operators: Royal Navy Preceded by: Archer class In commission: 2003 – Active: 2 General characteristics Type: Patrol boat Displacement: 24 tonnes (24 long tons) Length: 16 m (52 ft 6 in) Beam: 3.1 m (10 ft 2 in) Draught: 1.2 m (3 ft 11 in) Propulsion: 2 × MAN 2480LXE diesels, 2 shafts Speed: 32 knots (37 mph; 59 km/h) Range: 260 nm (480 km) at 19 kn (35 km/h) Complement: 5 (1 officer, 4 ratings) Sensors and processing systems: Racal-Decca Bridge-master 360, I band navigation radar Armament: 2 × General purpose machine guns (stern-mounted)
Hello. I have a soft spot for Sea Commander, I built one somewhere around 1964/5 when I was 13 with the help of my brother in law. I enjoyed the build and painting and buying fittings with my pocket money. I remember the long drying time of Cascamite wood glue! I think I had Frog petrol engine and Macgregor radio, all purchased from Roland Scot. After a couple of years I sold the boat and bought a new Moulton bicicle. I wish I still had both now
Evenin' Neville, For God's Sake (Whoever he may be) put the wire brush back in the drawer and save it for cleaning engine blocks😲 Use a heat gun and a scraper to get the paint off without destroying the wood. Like I had to do with my Gina 2 fish cutter and PTB hulls. Much less dust than trying to sand / wire-brush the paint off. That way will take you a month of Sundays anyway. The sand the hull flat and cover it with two layers of fibreglass tissue and resin. I used EzeKote, no mixing, no smell, sets in about 20 minutes and brushes wash out in warm water. 😊 Apply a final coat of resin. Sand flat and prime. The pics show these three stages for the cutter and the PTB. If the crack is bad reinforce it on the inside with a couple of layers of tissue and resin. Then give the whole inside of the boat two coats of resin. Take out anything that stops you getting down to the underwater hull and keel joints. That should fix your leak once and for all, strengthen the boat to help prevent any further hull damage if you hit something underway and give you a good base for the final colour coats. Bon chance!👍 Now back to fixing the prop shaft in my cutter.😉 Cheers, Doug 😎 Oh, and by the way - 'DON'T PAY THE FERRYMAN'!