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>> Home > Tags > rc boat

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It's a sad day!. by Westquay Admiral   Posted: 5 days ago
Thanks for your support gents, but I'm too old to kick too much arse these days. The Sea otter I'm not completely sure of, but the Super Hunter 3 1/2 cc,. was indeed a boat only motor and had a throttle on the exhaust rather than the inlet and the result was that it never came off the 2 stroke, so sounded very strange. But it was incredibly responsive and was demonstrated to an appreciative crowd at one of the race course big shows nearish London. Can't say which as I don't do nags, but on the temporary pond in a typical -for -the -time flattie boat, it was VERY impressive for a diesel and started easily too.....Kempton Park, methinks. All ED engines look like they mean business and run really well. We'll be making our own fuel again for lack of supply. Always used to, but poncy chemists won't sell you anything stronger than cough mixture these days. I could always get my Uncle some amyl nitrate when he asked me to. Don't know where he got the ether from, but it always got his little ED Bee going and was ace in my Racer. BTW, the Mk 4 was the precursor to the Racer. Looked a little earlier by being spindly and taller. Martin (the Anarchists' Boat Club)

It's a sad day!. by Westquay Admiral   Posted: 5 days ago
I do wish people would sign their posts, if only because I feel a bit odd typing long "handles". Anyway...Cadbury's? Is that Bourneville? If the lake was built by Cadbury employees why have the Council got a damned thing to do with it. Has anyone tested that? I would still use the IC boats and wait till some little Hitler comes hobbling along with his hat and his silly voice and a BIT OF PAPER, lads! No Paper, no comply. Another club I heard of that positively welcomes IC is at Bungay in Suffolk. Check it out. The more get stroppy, the fewer the stupid, uninformed councils (and, I hate to add, Clubs) can lay down a non-existent law. Right on, Brothers and Sisters. Never forget there will be power cuts soon. No lecktrickery to charge these nasty LiPos, so IC will prevail. I must restart the Anarchists Model Boat Club. I have a very good badge. Martin

Various by PMBDTCentral Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 7 days ago
Shots from the Chichester Canal RC Boat Run 2018. A bit of an endurance run and all except my galleon made it. Mine decided to not be attached to the prop shaft after a bit. Several children took part and several of the local clubs were there to enjoy the sunshine and company

Fibreglass the hull by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
I purchased as recommended by Robbob the fibreglass package which consisted of 750g of epoxy resin and 250g of hardener, I also went for the 90min cure as this is the first time I have ever done a boat hull, I’ve done plenty of stranded fibre cowlings/air intakes etc. where you lay a gel coat first then stranded matting which is so different to laying a fine matt on its own. I also ordered some mixing sticks and throw away brushes. First I cut the matting to the slightly oversize for one of the side skins, then loosely taped the matt to the bottom skin and checked the coverage - and checked again then fold over to the opposite side, this then leaves the surface clear to apply the resin. Mixing the resin should be done accurately, so borrow the kitchen scales and here we go. I wasn’t sure how much to mix for a side skin but 25g of resin and 7.5g of hardener looks about right. So mix well and then brush onto the side skin, then I gently lifted over the matting and laid it on the skin and gently brushed the matting down, the matting is almost sucked onto the resin so minimal brushing is required to ensure a smooth surface A previous blog said that “Less is More” how true this is, the temptation to spread the remainder of the resin on to the already adhered matt is something to be avoided, however learn by my mistake as I did just that (only in a small area on one skin) leaving rather a lot of sanding later after the resin had fully cured as it leaves a rather lumpy surface. So onward and upwards the following three surfaces were relatively easy with only minor difficulty keeping the matting in close to the 90 degree angle between the keel and skin and I had to keep going back to it pressing it in with a steel rule until the resin started to go off but minimal resin left a surface that was flat and the weave of the glass matt can be clearly seen and felt but minimal sanding is required if at all. Then a further 2 coats of resin with sanding in between will leave a smooth surface ready for final preparation of painting. The final picture is of the roof that in a previous page I said to add strength the roof would need a coat of glass to reinforce the unsupported edges – To be continued

Genesis 9000 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Hi Peter very unusual problem with the switch😲 You could temporarily replace it with a bullet connector to continue trials. Glue one end down so that you can quickly unplug the battery one handed. OR: simply short circuit the switch and use the fuse as the 'switch'!? Boat looks a little heavy / tail heavy? Maybe shift some weight a little forward to give more stability? Happy trialling, cheers Doug 😎

KD Perkasa by sajdlj00 Seaman   Posted: 16 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 37"/5000g KD Perkasa Triple Propellors (3 Blade 40mm) Direct Drive to a RS 540 (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Action Electronics P80 ESC - Comments: The kit was purchased over 40 years ago and after the bare hull and superstructure was built it languished in my shed until I retired. Being new to this RC modelling business I gleaned much from the internet. A few deck items were purchased but the bulk were scratch built, both from the kit and by my own fair hand, and maybe not to scale. Its not exactly the Perkas but then I'm no expert. She has yet to be launched when I can find time to get to a local model boating lake.

CB90 by CB90 Commander   Posted: 18 days ago
CB90 Model boat, 52 inches long performing 360 degree rotation on its own axis. The Combat Boat 90 (CB90) is a class of fast military assault craft originally developed for the Swedish Navy by Dockstavarvet. Powered by two 9.6v Graupner 700 turbo motors (no-longer in production). Two Mtroniks Viper Marine 25 is a Brushed Speed Control designed specifically for use in RC model boats, it has a 25Amp motor limit and has proportional forwards and reverse functions

Hms Rodney/ Nelson by Skipper44 Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
There’s one for sale on a face book group I’m on called rc boats for sale, go have a look it’s superb detail, trumpeter kit 1/200 ready built. Going for around £290 I think

Rudders and propeller by teejay Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi all for the second blog report on the schenllboot I am going to go over the rudder an propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat , these were made to be above the water line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts .which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel)and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum power mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The forth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I have to ask for some help could any one advise me on the length of propeller shafts , I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft but port and starboard will have to be longer . and I also need advice on selecting the motors , I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.

47" Fireboat power question by ronrees Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi Shaun, This design of hull forces the craft higher and higher the faster it goes. When it is high on the plane and almost hanging on the last few inches of propshaft it can fall off the plane either way, usually to the right (Starboard) side because of engine torque. The full size boats were fitted with 2 or 3 engines to help counteract this. The British Powerboat Company, who originally designed the hull that Vospers copied back in the 1930s/40s also noticed this which led to double skinning the hull with 1 inch thick mahogany for extra strength against pounding and falling on the waves. Lowering the drive angle of the propellor shafts and adding more weight from the C of G back to near the stern. We build this 3 screwed designed hull with one mainshaft usually so do not have the benefit of shaft rotation to stabilise the boat at speed. It was in the 1960's that Fairey engineers had the same problems (Swordsman,Huntsman etc) They came up with large transom mounted powered Trim Tabs. Their boats had similar problems and only one shaft in the main. I suggest you try fitting 2 x 2 inch wide by 1 inch deep trim tabs at the very bottom of your transom midway between the keel and the chine as well as move your battery packs forward a bit initially. Try some fast tests with this, you only need 2 to 4 degrees of down on the tabs initially. Add removeable weights near the CG as needed, a bit at a time but don't stop the bow lifting up onto the plane. Have fun, best of luck. Ron Rees

Worcester Model Boat Club Display by cormorant Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
The local BBC are holding an event, 'It's all about the Dogs', at Cob House Country Park on the 10th June 2018 (Sunday), from 10am to 4pm. Worcester Model Boat Club will be putting on a static and demonstration sailing display as part of the day.

My Jayne by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Very similar to F1 Power Boat 1300GP260(Rainbow), http://www.fuyuanrc.com/detail.asp?id=15485 Must be at least 5 years old as SWAMBC is defunct since 2013. 'South Western Association of Model Boat Clubs'. 😎

FS-GT3B 3 channel r/c by BigAlio Commander   Posted: 27 days ago
Hi guys on ebay there is New FS-GT3B 2.4G 3CH Transmitter Receiver With Fail-Safe For RC car boat FA for sale at an unbelievable price of £5.09 carriage free from china doesnt seam right to me what do you think. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-FS-GT3B-2-4G-3CH-Transmitter-...

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Thanks all for the responses. Donnieboy - have thought out the plumbing, which is simplified by using a cooling pump. See future episodes! Doug - appreciate the concern regarding the red ESC wires. Have been trying to understand the rationale behind that theory. If all ESCs share a common input voltage, i.e. from one battery, what would the connection of multiple red wires do? Can understand if there were several unique power sources, but that is not the case here. Perhaps with your electronics background you can explain. Colmar - Used the angle on the scale drawing. If it were good enough for Vosper, should be good enough for me! Think it close to 7 degrees anyway. Think short shafts with oilers should help. Have heard of bushings running dry and seizing with these high speed motors. The initial props are scale versions of the originals. Rather suspect they will not prove to be ideal. Have purchased some 2 blade racing style props for a future test. They have a much coarser pitch and are designed for high speed motors. Intend to use plastic props initially as they are cheap enough to experiment with. Perhaps others have a comments on the cavitation question?. Incidentally, this is my first high speed boat too, but there is much of information on both this web site and Model Boat Mayhem for guidance. Posting questions always generates useful information. Look widely though at all types of fast models, MTBs, RAF launches, E Boats etc. - it has all been done before!

WL 915 by CB90 Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 5/10] 17"/1000g WL 915 Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 10mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 30mm) Direct Drive to a outrunner (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 1Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through unknown (30Amps) ESC - Comments: WL 915 ready to run Brushless 2.4GHz RTR Electric RC Speed Boat. This RC boat is capable of reaching speeds up to 25MPH and anti-capsizing technology? Features: •Electric Powered •Capable Of Up To 25MPH? •2.4GHz Transmitter •11.1V 1200mAh LiPo Rechargeable Battery •Balance Charger Specifications: •Length: 17.25 Inches •Width: 6.8 Inches •Height: 4.7 Inches I will be modifying this little boat as it has a few annoying problems they are: 1. The flood chamber fills quickly and once full hampers the boat in accelerating and getting on the plane. 2. You cannot run the boat slowly as the flood chamber fills 3. The self righting is not 100 percent reliable. 4. Binding is initially difficult Mods a. Replace cabin so boat lies flat when inverted. so able to use rudder extension to steer when upside-down. b. Racing rudder side position out of prop-wash and aids torque effects. c. Fill float chamber with foam so gets on the plane quickly. d. Cut down rudder as too long (95mm) to 65mm. The cabin will be finished and painted properly after testing. On testing the rudder was reduced and performed well once it got going but still have problems getting it up on a plan it feel this could be a balance issue, needs more mass at the stern.