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Model Boats Website Team
October 2018: 5 people September 2018: 13 people August 2018: 5 people July 2018: 8 people June 2018: 8 people May 2018: 7 people April 2018: 24 people March 2018: 13 people February 2018: 8 people January 2018: 9 people
Westquay- Where did you get that hull. It looks great. I also have a spare brushless plus esc from a recently deceased surface drive hydro and I do prefer the submerged drive like yours. I have been searching second hand shops, the local flea market and car boot sales but found nothing. Boaty😊
Ha Ha i got no credit for some things I came up with either Trouble is I can only remember the word FANTABULOUS which I invented by accident Fantastic and fabulous ame to mind together as I was talking and the hybrid word came out.🤓🤓 Re the BECS I know that but I couldn't explain it like you and was also asking what I thought Martin wanted to know. Floating arrays? Didn't TESLA do something similar during the RC boat . trials? Or was that actually the vessel itself? In one of my bigger boats I used FOUR ex GPO L/A cells which was enough with it's Ex forces motors to put a bone in the boat's teeth as the say. The boat ? RMV Mauritania 5 feet long but very light for it's size hence the need for the accumulator cells Balsa frames and sides with ceiling tile superstructure with balsa bracing. Free running so it was always heeling and with the bone creaming at the forefoot was very impressive. Destroyed by a guy collapsing on it. He'd only fainted but me pore owl gerl was just chips and snowflakes from one end to the other. Nothing to repair as there was nowt left to repair🤐 I kept one cell for starting glow motors and sold the rest at a good profit. Incidentally the motors were that good that when everyone found out where to get them They were sold out in 2 days with no more available anywhere Don't know what they were out of but from the overspray on them ( cockpit green but the Yank version -- we thought) we believed they were from planes. Very solid with 9 segment rotor . Totally enclosed. Airtight? presumably to prevent arcing igniting fumes. The rotorsegments? We found out when one didn't run so we stripped it and found them shining at us. Lovely tight windings. Thick with shellac/varnish. The problem? A stuck brush caused by a tight pivot Drop of 3 in one oil and a very light smear of grease cured it. The carbons were replaceable if you could make or find some. I found a firm in Formby that made and sold brushes for anything. I fixed son's Fiat automatic thenks to them. It had a magnetic clutch and the brushes were so worn we didn't know what the shape should be. Turned out to be about 2 inches long rectangles plain and simple. LOL. Wish I could find some of those lovely engineered motors now.😤👍
Mornin' John, agree re chromite, but still don't know what chroDite is! I only personally own the one Taycol Target. I got into this whole Taycol business while I was renovating Dad's old Sea Scout last year and decided I wanted a bit more Oomph so upgraded it to a 1000kV brushless, which gives goods results on a 3S LiPo. See the vids I've posted of the the 'Sea trials' (Lake Trials!?). So I decided to use the Target in the ancient Billing Boats Danish fish cutter I'm restoring and converting from static to RC. Figured the Target would cope OK with the plodding pace of a fish cutter😉 BUT, I wanted it to be reversible without cumbersome external switches or relays as recommended by Taycol / Keil Kraft in those days. After surfing around a bit a found a website where others had tackled the same problem. Looked at their solutions and refined them slightly. All I do is rectify the pulsed (square wave) signal from the ESC with a bridge rectifier (4 hi-current diodes in a bridge form in one package), apply the + and - outputs from the rectifier to the field coil so that it produces a constant magnetic field just like the permanent magnet of a canned motor. The two alternating (pulsed) outputs of the ESC are applied to the AC (~) inputs of the rectifier, which go + / - or - / + according to the command from the TX, I apply to the brush terminals just like a normal brushed motor setup. The output of the ESC is a train of either positive of negative going DC pulses. Pic 2 the positive train on the scope. Pic 3 the negative train. The larger and wider the pulse the higher and longer the voltage is applied and the faster the motor spins. So called Pulse Width Modulation (PWM). The gaps between the pulses are smoothed out by the inertia (flywheel effect) of the motor, and anything hanging on it - like a prop and a few million gallons of wet stuff 😁 Hey presto, a field coil motor that runs forwards or backwards on command 😊 Main thing is simply to separate the field coil from the armature coil (i.e. brush gear) so you can control each one independently. No rocket science but highly satisfying when it all comes together and works on the pond. OK, I'll look up Mr Lynch, wasn't he the Sarge in Z Cars 😁😁😁 Cheers, Doug 😎
I have by luck, not judgement acquired a second hand 'Nirvana' Yacht, it is a sloop rigged craft that was only sold in America and retailed between $250 and $350 according to the revision version and the year brought. This was a bit of a surprise to me as I only paid £10 for it. The Nirvana RC Sailboat was first produced by Megatech in 2002. and is 32in long and the hull& deck are ABS plastic. The quality of the boat is unmatched in the price range, with such features as a lead keel ballast, superior polyester sails that won't mildew, stretch or tear, and fittings that make the boat a dream to sail. The mast and booms are made of carbon reinforced composite that is light and very strong. The Boat hull is in sound condition just a few scratches, there is a hairline crack in the mast area, no radio gear at all. and sails are usable but really need replacing.
That might have been the case before the mobile phone/mini computer boom, Colin, but now they don't learn anything at school, there are no clubs at school and all they want is 'phone games/youtubes of other nerds playing games better than them (yes really!!). They simply cannot see any pleasure or fulfillment in making something and let's face it, apart from racing yachts and very fast raceboats, model boat operation will bore the best of us after 5 minutes! Going round and round with a coaster is limited to say the least. I get my pleasure from making them and almost none from playing with them. Try offering that as an argument to a kid who loves Fortnight or Minecraft. You haven't a chance! Model aircraft or car racing will always take them if there's a hint of interest as those are more exciting, if expensive. Martin
[Score: 5/10] 26"/1400g HMS Sabre, Scimitar-class preceded by Archer-Class Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 15mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through China 60A (30Amps) ESC - Comments: Just finish this little boat, need to have its first trial on the water to measure current draw and perhaps modify the prop size. Make sure water cooling works, and the thing steers ok, as rudder is off set. and may have to be move into the prop wash. The Motor 3650 4Poles 3060KV Brushless RC Motor for 1/10 RC Car Boat 1. 4Poles design, high torque and high efficiency. The overall efficiency exceed 90 percent. 2. Low heat production, long lifetime, strong overload protection and it can function 95% of its features without any heat sink appliance. 3. High quality materials adopted: high intense aluminum alloy anodizing shell , front and back cover , high-performance temperature-resistant magnetic steel and imported high-speed bearing. Specifications: Model: XTI-3650/4.5D Dimension: 50 * 36mm KV(RPM/V): 3060KV Poles: 4 Max Power: 1300W Max Voltage: 19V Max Amps: 68A Shaft Diameter: 3.2mm Shaft Length: 15mm Connector: 5.0mm Banana Connector. The real boat Builders: Halmatic Operators: Royal Navy Preceded by: Archer class In commission: 2003 – Active: 2 General characteristics Type: Patrol boat Displacement: 24 tonnes (24 long tons) Length: 16 m (52 ft 6 in) Beam: 3.1 m (10 ft 2 in) Draught: 1.2 m (3 ft 11 in) Propulsion: 2 × MAN 2480LXE diesels, 2 shafts Speed: 32 knots (37 mph; 59 km/h) Range: 260 nm (480 km) at 19 kn (35 km/h) Complement: 5 (1 officer, 4 ratings) Sensors and processing systems: Racal-Decca Bridge-master 360, I band navigation radar Armament: 2 × General purpose machine guns (stern-mounted)
I was just searching for a model car pattern I made months ago for some mods and I found all the lovely etchings I'd done years ago, pre computer, for Riva and Chris-Craft models. These two pics show two brass patterns for the Riva vents and two of the white metal cast vents, one polished about 20 years ago, one done just now, to show that a well burnished casting will stay looking chrome even without lacquer. Then the two Chris Craft tread plates I had the great, good forethought to draw when I found I had a bit of space on the Riva fret. They are perfect, as are the Chris-Craft side flashes and all the Riva badges, even though they were done from hand drawn artwork, proving that Vector images are NOT essential as the pootah people will tell you. I shall mount these two on the typically wedge shaped base and have them cast. I also found a FUEL engraved cap cover which will go on my Chris-Craft filler. It happens to be bang on size wise! I'm cock ahoop! I knew I had these, but had no idea where to start looking. Thanks Mel for getting me started on the search for your Tecno F2 car, but sorry, couldn't find that devil. I have made some more Vincent bits, been to son's to play on his new steering wheel and pedals racing game ( I managed a whole lap of the proper Silverstone in a Lotus 25!) and dined out with the lady wife. What a great day. Martin
Thanks Martin, I'll look out for that👍 Yeah, the Lightning is cool, I had the 1/72 version back then. I recently bought the 1/24th kit of the Mosquito, another cool kite! It's a MONSTER and I haven't had the guts to start it yet😉 I recently found on the Krick site some chrome "Racing Paint for Polycarbonate Body's" made by Ghiant Aerosols in Belgium, branded 'RC Car'. Comes in two 150ml cans; chrome spray and a lacquer / fixer. Haven't tried it yet, will report when I have. Cheers, Doug
Hi John, No I didn't know there was a premium on ED stuff! Will have to start touring the Flohmärkte here (Flea Markets - have never heard of a 'Kofferraum Sale (Boot Sale😉) here. Dimly remember drooling over ED engine ads, way out of my range back then🤔 Didn't know they did RC kit til it popped up here. Sorry to dash your hopes but Unfortunately I only have the info and not the stuff itself😭 Here are the links http://www.modelenginenews.org/cardfile/ed_radios.htmlhttp://www.modelenginenews.org/cardfile/ed_radios.html#3 Happy browsing / reminiscing 👍 Cheers, Doug😎
Doug, I don't generally "do" foreign and Pete certainly wouldn't. As you say, most are model railway or strictly stick and string model ships. What we wanted to do was a general model hobby museum with a bias toward the RC hobbies. Ain't none of them. History of RC, RC cars, boats and aircraft. Materials, tools, etc. Mags and books, that kind of thing. Martin
Mornin John Re detector circuit: It's not very complicated, only 3 or 4 actual components. The clues are good RF diode and a very sensitive meter! I just bought a couple of 300microamp full scale meters. Will do a little blog when I've tidied it up and boxed it. Re Heli: can you post or mail me pics of the TX, RX and ESC please. Brushed or Brushless motors? Given manufacturer / model numbers I might be able to figure out what the pissibolities are. No promises though 😉 Sounds to me like the TX stick is set up for forwards / backwards like a normal car or boat set up. I.e. for 0 to full speed in either direction is only half the stick travel. For aircraft 0 is full down, giving you the full stick travel for the speed range. The ESC probably needs to be 're-educated' and the TX throttle stick re-programmed, IF at all possible with the TX you got with the Heli. Re " P.S. Signals come from where Doug?" - Don't understand the question John ?? Cheers, Doug 😎
Hi Pete, the wiring diagram as such will stay as it is, but after my test results I will revise the resistor value (upwards) to reduce the power requirement without reducing the perceived brightness. Also to damp down the whites a little and bring up the yellows, otherwise I reckon the white mast lamps will be blinding and the yellow deck lights will look oddly dim. I would be tempted to use whites for the deck lights, maybe put a dollop of yellow glass lacquer on them to tone 'em down a bit. Apropos Fletcher Class; I have 1/144 kit I intend to convert to RC. My H class destroyer 1/72, HMS Belfast cruiser and Graf Spee pocket battleship 1/128 are also all about 4&1/2 to 5 feet! Don't know how much longer I'll be able to carry them to the lake so I'm considering building a trailer, like I've seen here on the site, and using Jessica's old RC beach buggy to haul them 😊 Also have a 1/96 kit of the fast cruiser / minelayer HMS Manxman which is scheduled for the next winter build. Also 4 foot something 😲 Cheers, Doug 😎
I tend to use LiPo's but they can be temperamental and need the correct charger. They are smaller and lighter than NiMH and give you a much greater output. NiMH are similar in size to LiPo but are heavier and will not have the same sort of power available. Lead acid are the easiest to use in terms of charging but are much heavier and larger then the other 2 types but tend to be cheaper. Lead acid are a good option if you need the ballast or are not limited on physical size. Cost is also a consideration a good quality charger can be an hefty investment but will serve you well and if you buy the correct type will charge/discharge any battery type that you have. I have heard horror stories about LiPo's bursting into flames, which my son did with his RC car. this was down to him not understanding this type of battery. I have not had good results in terms of endurance with NiMh but Lipo's if correctly selected will last much longer, a word of warning here though, they will stop working suddenly with no indication like running slow etc so if using LiPo's you will, need an alarm on each battery. Lead acid is much easier to in terms of Voltage either 6 or 12v with real problems when connecting them in series or parallel for use or charging, a little harder with the other two types but not impossible. This has probably confused you even more but I am sure you will come the correct battery. I have to confess I have an interest in this build as I intend it to be my next project👍
Hi Pete, Yep, the colour of the LEDs can be determined by doping the diode chip with various elements. The early ones were either red or clear, so the colour was added in the epoxy dome around the chip. Cheap ones still are like that. Nowadays you can get LEDs that light different colours according to the voltage applied! For instance in those irritating shelf / vitrine light strings that rotate through a variety of colours all the time.😡 I have some that are red or green depending on which way round you apply the voltage! They are milky white when off. Useful for checking the operation and setup in the boat of brushed ESCs and motors, esp for multi-screw boats, and the output of switching circuits. Funny I always thought halogen lights were a hard white with a blue tint, like some car headlights. Cool on the Kelvin temp range. Yellow is more like the warm white light of a tungsten bulb to me. Yellow deck floodlights are more likely to be sodium lamps, like many street lamps. The measurements you sent me indicated that the switch on voltage (Vf) of the searchlight was 3V and all the others 2V. So I based my final calc on that. If any of your LEDs don't 'strike' with 150Ohm just reduce the resistor to 120 to give it a 'shove'😁 I don't expect that though. I have a box of 300 various LEDs and 1000 various resistors in front of me (and the mast from my Southampton tug😉) so will do some practical tests. Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW: I can strongly recommend that you buy a simple LED Tester, like one of these- https://www.ebay.com/bhp/led-tester I'll help you get the LEDs the right way round in your circuits and tell you how much current they need for a decent brightness, and at what voltage they will turn on! Only a few bucks and saves a lot of aggro. It'll also tell you what colour a 'clear or white' one will be when it turns on😊