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>> Home > Tags > rc craft

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Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Evenin' Martin, Oh dear oh dear oh dear! 😲 There is some good advice above, but maybe not optimally expressed for use by a Luddite! Sorry guys but this might be a relatively long post to separate the wheat from the chaff, explode a few myths and resolve this little conundrum of Martin's! One thing at a time! NUMBER1. THE RADIO- Dear Martin: Whatever possessed a self confessed Luddite and Scrooge like you to spring a large chunk of your hard earned pension on one of the most expensive and complex RC sets on the market in the first place???? I bought a Spektrum DX6 on impulse a few years ago while strolling around Conrad here in Munich. I've regretted it ever since. In retrospect it was way too expensive >600€, and complex. It is intended for the Fly Boys, as unfortunately most sets are these days. I have still not successfully programmed it to do what I want to do, instead of what it is pre-programmed to do for helis and fixed wing aircraft. Not even with it's own Spektrum RX, let alone a 'foreign' RX like Orange. So I have not yet risked it in a model. Definitely NOT my Catalina. Since then I have bought a Turnigy I6. Which does the same as the Spektrum, works fine with my Orange RX with giro for the Catalina😉, cost only 69€ (is now available for around 33 quid😡) and within a few hours I had it programmed and tested to do all I want in my destroyer and Sea Scout.👍 In short: the Spektrum is way way way Overkill for your yacht or Fire Float or similar, where you will only ever want rudder and sail servo / winch or rudder and speed control. So flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple (and cheap😉) 2 or 4 channel set. I can't imagine you ever wanting to start building special effects into your models so 2 (max 4) channels is all you will probably ever need. Stick your Spektrum on eBay, maybe you'll get at least a 100 quid for it. If you still want to go 2.4Gig get yourself a Turnigy i6 set with RX, 6 ch but cheap enough and I can help you directly with binding and programming from experience - I have a good English manual with no Chenglish gobbledygook. If not and you still have a working 27 or 40MHz FM set (40 would be better) use that. Where you sail, all alone, who's going to bother you or be bothered? BTW: Yes the Spektrum TX IS DSM2 and DSX compatible BUT you have to tell it what you want to use!!! Frankly I think trying that with a non-Spektrum RX is risky - especially first time out and for a novice Luddite😉 NUMBER 2. THE NiMh BATTERY- Voltage is not a reliable indication of battery charge / remaining capacity. After use a battery will recover slightly when at rest and the open terminal (off load) voltage will rise, often to the nominal voltage or slightly above. This is NO indicator of remaining charge as when a load is applied the voltage will drop again rapidly, the higher the current drawn the faster the voltage drops. If it goes below 1.0V per cell the battery will be permanently damaged and never regain it's original capacity. Haverlock is dead right about batteries losing charge when not used or regularly recharged. An NiMh batt loses charge at the rate of about 1% per day so after 3 months or so you can send it to the great recycling depot in the sky and buy a new one. Periodic cycling, discharge / charge prevents / minimises this - see care hints I posted above. And yes, NiMh do have that irritating Memory effect🤔 albeit not so pronounced as with NiCads. Lipos apparently not, but I ain't seen any evidence yet - the jury is still out! Sooo - ignore the 6.37V and run the batt through a discharge and full charge cycle. If your new NiMh batt has not yet been cycled and charged I would bet that it's present capacity is about 45%. See example below (and in attached pic) of one of my new 4.8V (nom) NiMh RX batts. NUMBER 3. THE CAPACITY CHECKER - "Glorified voltmeter" ? Where did the 6.37V reading come from if not from your 'new toy'? If it is showing volts it should also be showing capacity in %age. If you received the wrong thing it's not the "bloody electrics" but the bloody nit who packed and sent it that's at fault. Before you send it back check the below😉 Send me a photo of the Checker you have and with your battery plugged in so I can see what's happening on the display. Otherwise we are all poking about in the dark (Are we back to Jules and his friend Sandy😉😲) The link I sent you was for a checker exactly the same as mine except for the labelling! As you can see in my photo, properly connected it shows the terminal voltage and the remaining capacity (charge level) of the battery pack. Forget the Nixx (=2 Ni possibilities) display, that just means 'It ain't a LiXX' (3 Li- pissibolities). Attached photo shows a brand new 4 cell NiMh RX pack 4.8V (Nominal) connected to one of my Checkers. As you can see the voltage shown is 5.19V, according to the popular 'folklore' that would seem to indicate FULL charge. Unfortunately not🤔 Capacity indication is 45% which is normal for brand new batteries in storage and transit. Explanation thereof - see above! RE: " If it can do LiPos, why not the relatively simpler NiMhs?" a) the LiPo pack has a different chemistry and construction which requires different input circuitry on the checker, b) LiPos need balancing and are fitted with Balancer Plugs which connect to the multipin connectors on the checker. Each pin connects to one cell of the LiPo so that they can be monitored individually. LiPo chargers use this to balance the cells to within 0.01V (100mV) or less by adjusting the charge / discharge currents to each cell. The checkers use this to show you the individual cell voltages and charge states. A big difference, i.e.lower V and capacity, indicates cells with faults, e.g. higher internal resistance, or a discharged pack which needs charging and balancing. NiMh packs don't usually have this facility to measure individual cells. They are thus connected to a separate input on the checker which can then only show total pack terminal voltage and capacity. BTW: if you can get it passed 'THE Management' store your battery packs in the fridge😲 The 'coolth' slows down the rate of self discharge, which is a function of the battery internal resistance, which reduces slightly with reduced temperature😉 Enough for now, back to stripping my PTB for it's Midlife Refit! Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Martin: Just saw your post about another RX. Why the hell not buy a Spektrum designed Rx guaranteed to work with their TX? Or better still; flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple Turnigy set as above, also recommended by Ron, albeit the 9 ch version. All this frigging about with 'claimed compatible' bits and pieces just wastes money and time, fogs the issue and don't prove nutt'n!

drum sail winch questions... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hmmm, seems whatever I do I need to tie more knots to use either a ring (as per Havelock's video) or a bowsie. The knots are tied in the string on the winch drum and that was a pain to get the tension right, so I'm thinking just a piece of slit tube to get over the string, then crimp up with electrical contact pliers for a good crimp. Still waiting for the battery pack to arrive for the RC and servos. Then I have to bind the Orange Rx. to the Spektrum Tx....ugh! I got a biddliboop from the Tx. when I put the batteries in and turned it on and a light came on in a line of lights. Fancy, this modern stuff, innit? First time the Tx. has ever been right out of the box in about 5 years since I bought it, ostensibly for a model aircraft. But aircraft are too expensive to insure, join clubs, etc., hence my switch to yachts. Just as involving as aircraft (wind strength, direction, sail trim and all that jazz), but more interesting than watching a power boat trolling round endlessly. At least, that's the plan Martin

HMS Victorious. by Scratchbuilder Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 25 days ago
HMS Victorious,circa 1941. Still very much in the early stages of construction. Most of the internal workings are in place ,but still a few ideas to work on. Thus far she has a working forward aircraft lift. A smoke generator (water not oil). All four rear guns rotate. A working bilge pump. Working next on how to activate the crane. All three engines are powered from a 6 volt battery. All other items mentioned above powered from another 6 volt battery,bot of which provide the main ballast. As I say still a long way to go yet as can be seen.Many of the fittings have to be more authentically painted.

Newbie radio control question by JBRCfloats Seaman   Posted: 27 days ago
Hi, Just thought I would comment regarding the difference between Mode 1 vs Mode 2. I fly aircraft, but the configuration should be the same using the radio for boats. Mode 1 - Elevator/Rudder stick on the left. Throttle/Aileron stick on the right. Mode 2 - Throttle/Rudder stick on the left. Aileron/Elevator stick on the right. I'm getting into boats now and my radio that I will using is set up in the mode 2 configuration. The choice depends on what you have used in the past or the type of radios your boating buddies use. In aircraft flying we always use the same modes just in case someone has to step in and take over the flying. In boating I don't think this a criteria due to the fact the boat would go down like aircraft do sometimes. Hope this helps.

Wherry hull in GRP by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
I'm with you there Martin I've never been a fan of the Thames barges but I was researching something else and stumbled across the wherry and i thought that's a craft I need to build besides the beauty of it the layout of the mast being so far forward it just defines all logic of what we understand when it comes to sail powered craft , it should have it's nose permanently submerged with a tail wind. If you like I could scan and email the articles from the magazine's just send me a pm if you want them Ron

It's a sad day!. by stormin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Yes I've decided to sell most of my I.C. Boats and engine, because of this "nanny state" that we live in now. Probably 95% of clubs and sailing waters in my area(Liverpool) stipulate No I.C.s, l'm not traveling 50 miles to sail when in reality I've got several clubs and lakes within 5 to 10 miles from my home. I started model boat building in the 50s with balsa models and on to "aerokits" sea urchin, scout, rover, commander, and the holy grail the sea queen all of which had diesel or petrol engines. Granted we have come a long long way since then with electric and brushless motors, I do use them in both planes and boats, but there is still something to be said for the sound smell and reality of an I.C.engine in a boat, aircraft aren't to bad at the present, until they ban them to. Sorry for the rant but that's the way I feel.😭

47" Fireboat power question by ronrees Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Shaun, This design of hull forces the craft higher and higher the faster it goes. When it is high on the plane and almost hanging on the last few inches of propshaft it can fall off the plane either way, usually to the right (Starboard) side because of engine torque. The full size boats were fitted with 2 or 3 engines to help counteract this. The British Powerboat Company, who originally designed the hull that Vospers copied back in the 1930s/40s also noticed this which led to double skinning the hull with 1 inch thick mahogany for extra strength against pounding and falling on the waves. Lowering the drive angle of the propellor shafts and adding more weight from the C of G back to near the stern. We build this 3 screwed designed hull with one mainshaft usually so do not have the benefit of shaft rotation to stabilise the boat at speed. It was in the 1960's that Fairey engineers had the same problems (Swordsman,Huntsman etc) They came up with large transom mounted powered Trim Tabs. Their boats had similar problems and only one shaft in the main. I suggest you try fitting 2 x 2 inch wide by 1 inch deep trim tabs at the very bottom of your transom midway between the keel and the chine as well as move your battery packs forward a bit initially. Try some fast tests with this, you only need 2 to 4 degrees of down on the tabs initially. Add removeable weights near the CG as needed, a bit at a time but don't stop the bow lifting up onto the plane. Have fun, best of luck. Ron Rees

Gannet 15cc by stormin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Purchased this motor back in 1966, I've broken my con' rod, I need to replace it so any ideas?, I've had one fabricated from aircraft quality aluminium but I'm not happy with it 😢. I do still have the original, though in two pieces 😪. So I'm putting it out there for any ideas on replacing it, whether it be original (not much hope) or a good engineer to re-manufacture👍.

wood glue by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi John, only between red n green! Apparently he saw them as tinted shades of grey 🤔 Anyway somehow it worked. He was awarded an MBE for straightening out the avionics on the Victor Tankers while Electronics Bay Boss at RAF Marham, and for his work as Avionics Liaison Officer on the MRCA / Tornado project. Now you see where my interest in electronics came from. Funny, what he did for aircraft I ended up doing for naval ships😉 Pardon my ignorance but what are BB and NABC? I had a sneakin' feelin' I'd spelt Wrekin wrong 😲 Cheers Doug 😎

Background Information by CB90 Commander   Posted: 3 months ago
HSL100 Type 2 High Speed Launch 63 feet 21.5 tons 39 Knots 1941 built by The British Power Boat Company and popularly known as the 'Whaleback' (as the cabin looks like a whale diving). The craft operating in the North Sea / English Channel. Their armament consisted of any weapon which the crew could find, they started of with a single 303 in each ball turret and progressed to twin 303's, also some had two paired 303's on twin mounting posts and a 20mm on the rear deck where the life raft was originally. Between the 15th July 1940 and October Britain lost 215, hard to replace, pilots and aircrew to the seas. Thus in February 1941, with the motto "The sea shall not have them".The Air Sea Rescue Services (ASRS) were created, which later became the RAF Search and Rescue Force. :- 122 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 123 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 124 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 125 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 126 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 127 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 128 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 129 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 130 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 131 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 132 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 133 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 134 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 135 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 136 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 137 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 138 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 139 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 140 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 141 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 142 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 143 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 144 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 145 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 146 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 147 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 148 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 149 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK - 156 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 157 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 158 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 159 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 161 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 162 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 163 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 164 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 165 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 166 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 168 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 169 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 171 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 172 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 173 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 174 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 175 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 176 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 177 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 178 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 179 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 180 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 181 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 182 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 183 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 185 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 186 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 187 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 188 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 189 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 190 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK - 2250 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK - 2546 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 2547 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 2548 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 2549 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 2550 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK 2551 63ft BRITISH POWER BOAT HSL WHALEBACK By the end of WWII more than 8,000 aircrew and 5,000 civilians had been rescued by the service. The role of aircraft in the ASRS was to locate downed airmen and help them, by dropping them survival equipment and stores, while they waited for an ASRS launch to pick them up.

British Air Sea Rescue Launch by CB90 Commander   Posted: 3 months ago
Plastic Model Boat Kit WW2 British Air Sea Rescue Launch made of vacuum formed styrene approximately Length 24″ x 7″ 1/35th semi-scale. https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/ww2-british-air-sea-res... The Darlington & District Model Boat Club races semi scale craft being either a pleasure craft or military craft, between 22 and 34 inches long using a 7.4v 3300mah battery, but no racing gear apart from trim tabs. Construction is simple but the kit looked more like PT9 than a Whaleback due to the open fore cabin, which I enclosed with scrap styrene sheet. Note PT 9 was delivered to America by the British Power Boat Company and served as the blueprint for the development of the PT boats of the USA. To keep the boat as wide and strong as possible I didn't follow the instructions and cut the internal ribs after attaching the deck for a better fit, also cut a rib away for the battery to fit on far port side. (counter torque) and reinforce the sides of the craft with some 5mm square strips of styrene purchased separately along with some triangular running strakes under the hull.

Higgins PT Boat by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Not me, never heard of 'em til now, but here are the specs and a pic😉 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huckins_Yacht_Corporation Happy Huckin', Doug 😎 Technical Specifications Lindsay Lord, a commander in the United States Navy who was stationed in Hawaii during the war, examines wartime PT boat design in his "Naval Architecture of Planing Hulls" and records the Navy's planing hull research and findings. This is the most complete source of information on PT boat hull design and construction, and provides hull test data as well as detailed analysis and comparisons of the various PT boat designs. U.S. Navy Technical Specifications of the Huckins PT Boat (Patrol Torpedo) Motorized Torpedo Fast Boat: Crew: 11 Length: 78 ft (23.77 m) Beam: 19.6 ft (5.97 m) Draught: 5 ft (1.52 m) Displacement: 42 tons Machinery: 3 x Packard 12-cylinder gasoline engines delivering 1,350 horsepower each to 3 x shafts. Surface Speed: 40 kts (46 mph) Range: 0 miles (0 km) Armament: 4 x 21-inch (533mm) torpedo tubes for 4 x Mark 8/13 torpedoes, launchers arranged as inline pairs along port and starboard sides. 1 x 37mm OR BOFORS 40mm Dual-Purpose cannon fitted on forecastle. 1 x 20mm Oerlikon anti-aircraft cannon at stern 4 x 0.50 caliber (12.7mm) anti-aircraft, air-cooled heavy machine guns in dual mounts (2x2), one emplacement amidships and one forward, offset to starboard. Optional 0.30 caliber machine guns, mortar launchers, rocket projectors and additional 20mm cannons (and captured 23mm anti-tank guns) as required/available. Ship Class: PT 95 Number-in-Class: 18 Ships-in-Class: PT 95-102; PT 255-264 Initial Year of Service: 1942[23]

Skirtless hovercraft by Airtrooper Seaman   Posted: 3 months ago
Without a skirt your model will be limited to smooth surfaces such as floors and patios. It may even struggle on grass. However, if you're willing to accept these limitations you'll also bypass one of the tricky components of RC hovercraft!

Skirtless hovercraft by reilly4 Captain   Posted: 3 months ago
Mr. Grumpy - The reason for a hovercraft skirt is to provide a flexible seal between the craft and the ground/water surface. If everything was flat and smooth, then a shirtless hovercraft would probably work, as a uniform cushion of air could be maintained. Unfortunately this is not reality. I used to like the concept of a hovercraft and once keen to model one, but having seen real ones and models lack of directional control have gone away from the idea. Another reason for the skirt - bouncing off nearby objects in the vicinity of the hovercraft.

Devil in the detail! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Doug, Looking at my rudders comparing them to some pics I’ve found online, my rudders are too big and therefore I will reduce them in size, no biggie, 10 minutes work should see that done. Back to the struts. I would have made them from brass, however as my propshafts are in brass tubes for the whole length, I feel that the plastic versions I’ve made should be ok for aesthetics as the brass tubes seem rigid enough, hopefully no chance of any whip? I’m planning on running this on 2S lipo to give a scale speed, all depends what the watt meters says when I test the motors with props in water. Having the option to go to 3S if needed. I don’t plan on having a great deal of rudder throw and will programme in some expo to soften the rudders throw. Of course, if needed, I am more than happy to make adjustments and incorporate recommendations as given by the lovely people on this forum. It’s still a learning curve for me as I bring 45 years of aircraft experience over to the boat world! If anyone requires any aircraft advice, I’m your man!