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>> Home > Tags > receiver

receiver
receiver
Mcgregor 1990s transmitter/receiver by Kipper Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 9 hours ago
To be honest, when you can buy a new 2.4g 6 channel transmitter for £30-£35, even if conversion is possible, I don't think the cost & work to convert is worth the hassle.

Mcgregor 1990s transmitter/receiver by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 hours ago
A long shot, is it possible to convert a Mcgregor transmitter and receiver from 35meg (aircraft only) to a suitable surface model frequency eg 27Mhz band, the 459Mhz band and the 2.4Ghz band. If it is any instruction available?

S.H.G Black tornado by thatsinkinfeelin18 Seaman   Posted: 14 hours ago
hi got this off internet not eBay!!!! going to over the winter add meteor 40 engine propshaft n' tube were already fitted as was water scoop n' outlet ,rudder , trim tabs,a 2channel Acoms r/c receiver and and 2 servos no trans. but it did all work ( all in a gooy margerine tub possibly the best part of 40 yrs worth of GOO!!!! Hull /deck look to be in good condition! will keep u informed on "resto" over the winter months regards

Nomenclature... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi John, think somehow you've got the wrong end of the stick!🤔 All BECs are Battery Eliminator Circuits of one sort or another. The objective is to eliminate the separate receiver battery, sometimes necessary purely to save weight and/or space in small models. If you do that then the RX power must come from the main drive battery, which then has to supply all RX functions; servos, switched lights etc etc. Personally, if the boat / ship can carry it, I prefer to use drive batteries for just that and use separate battery for the RX and special functions. Some of which, like smokers for instance can be current gobblers. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS If you ever find a way of eliminating all batteries and still get the RX to work and the boat to move PATENT IT QUICK!! 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎 Hmmm! Maybe a raft towed behind with an array of hi-current solar panels!? 😁😁 Years ago in my work in NAVAL COMMS systems I once suggested to a shipbuilder, who was complaining about the number of antennas needed, to put some of them on a raft behind the ship 😉 Now they are doing just that with antenna buoys from submerged submarines! No credits 🤔 ... SIGH 😉

Nomenclature... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi Martin, 'Linear' in this context just means more or less a passive analogue device, and when it's on it's ON full stop. Decades ago I made my own with a simple one chip circuit using a 3 legged voltage regulator L7805 5V 1A and they're still going strong😊 The SBEC uses a fast switching type of power circuit, similar to the pulsed DC outputs of the ESCs. The switched type is an active device and is more efficient, less battery power wasted as heat, but can cause interference with older 27 / 40Meg RC receivers. Shouldn't affect 2.4Gig sets though. Cheers, Doug. PS even in a blackout I think I would find my way to the wine cooler or my malt whisky! 😁😋

Nomenclature... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
Hi Martin, BEC is the Battery Eliminator Circuit built into an Electronic Speed Controller. UBEC is a Universal BEC which takes power from the main (drive) battery and supplies 5V or 6v to the receiver. It can be a linear device. SBEC does the same job as a UBEC but is a so called Switched device which is more efficient than a linear. So functionally for our purposes there is no difference. Alles klar Herr Kommissar!? 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 days ago
Starting a bit backwards here as have posted more recently with some ideas. If you are going to have a twin brushless system using 1 REC, you probably should have twin 2200Mah 2s lipos, a power lead (I use a JST plug set) taken from the input leads of ONE ESC (not the batt leads) (I break into them and solder the JST leads on ) run those to a UBEC and then to your REC switch then to your receiver. If your ESCs have a built in BEC, withdraw the red power wires from the BEC receiver plugs and tape them back as you now don't need the power from these. If your TX is 2 stick 4/6ch etc and is capable of being changed to 2 throttle sticks (provision for ratchet strip - copy if necessary - on opposite gimbal - ie using set up as mode 1&2 throttle) you can use the existing throttle and elevator stick to give full independent control with either rudder or aileron Ch for rudder. The Chinese ESCs I use have a power switch as well as BECs which is handy. I would keep the brushed system separate from the brushless altogether with its own battery (or try power from the other batt as described above) otherwise you may be trying to mix 3 phase and single phase at some point. If you are using 2.4 you could use another paired 3ch receiver (does work, as mentioned in my later post) to only run the brushless throttle from a rotary sw on your TX (if you have that )

BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 days ago
If you are using 2 ESCs/BEC/UBECs with 2 plugged into 1 receiver you should remove the red wire from one of the plugs and tape it back to the lead, as both plugged in will possibly supply too much voltage for the receiver (you are getting double the voltage from 2 different sources) and this can cause the ESC to stutter . You should have no problems with Brushless out-runner motors as with the correct match with the ESC they should be as smooth as brushed. I have dual 2000kv 28/45 in-runners (with water jackets) and twin ESCs and 2 sound units using 1 receiver in my 64ft ASR model with no problems regarding proportional control (fwd or rev). I had a 28mm O/R in a Maiami ASR and it would crawl along (but the high noise was ear wrecking so have changed it back to brushed for now. I do have a similar slight high pitched squeal at certain speeds on one motor and this may be caused by the particular motor not 'syncing'properly with the ESC (Chinese cheap ESCs and HobbyKing /made in china motors) but short of changing that motor and ESC I am just putting up with it for now. The high pitched sync noise is fairly common and sometimes not fixable, (a number of my larger planes do it and its audible from 100m away (also amplified by a hull,-nice sound box). It can depend on the way a particular motor is wound (no 2 are identical) or even magnet placement/timing, as the may be hand wound by 2 very nice Chinese ladies at different ends of a bench ( just read some of the Hobby King motor reviews ) You could try changing the frequency on the ESC if it has that option as a higher motor Kv sometimes requires a higher frequency. Also make sure your ESC is set to the correct battery cell count. If it has an auto setting that should usually work best for general applications unless you are running fancy motors. Regarding interference, make sure you keep your aerial as far as poss from the motors and ESCs (even on 2.4 - I put mine right up in the bow) and there should be no problems. I have had 2 twin engined boats (my MTB & ASR) 1 brushed and 1 brushless running side by side 10" apart using the same radio for both (same type of Rec in each boat) with no problems at all. The bow down is probably prop shaft angle (the shallower the better) but if you are using counter rotating props you could try swapping props (inward rotation to outward) and motor rotation to see if it makes a difference. Also with 2800Kv motors you should be using small props (around 28-30mm diam 3 blade) as these motors are made to rev) as on a 2s battery they will be turning at around 20,000 dry and perhaps 18,000 wet (depending on prop) and if you load them too much they will cook with no cooling (assuming they are around 28mm dia ?) Only other thought - silicone couplings will squeal real loud if they slip.

lastest progress by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi TJ, that instruction is quite correct👍 It indicates that the ESCs have Battery eliminator Circuits (BEC) which means that there is an internal circuit which 'syphons' off 5V from the main drive battery to supply the receiver via the red wire in the ESC to RX cable. The ESC itself takes it's power from the drive battery. If all three red wires are left connected this will cross couple all three BEC circuits and may well damage the ESCs. The RX only needs one power supply! 😉 In my multiple shaft boats I usually disconnect all the red leads from ESC to RX and fit a separate RX battery. Cheers, Doug 😎

Catharine by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 9/10] 25" Catharine - Comments: Uses 4 AA batteries to power the Spektrum Receiver and two servos. Mast is 22” Boom 20” Sail material is from Doyle Sailmakers Inc. 2.2oz Fibrermax nylon from Challenge Sailcloth Draft is 3” Bean 8”

Graupner Jumbo 540 motors by Will-I-Am Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Doug, The 6volt battery is currently an NiMh battery not an SLA. The problem was that according to Mtroniks the minimum voltage to the ESC to adequately run the BEC connection is 6volts. That is why I was getting erratic control when the battery voltage was 5.6 volts. The action speed controller will work 2-12 volts and I am going to use a separate receiver battery as suggested by Dave Milbourn just to make sure. Regards Will

Old Futaba servo wiring... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Quite simple Martin, there's a chip inside the Tester which generates the same signal as comes out of a receiver. The pot on the top varies the signal just like the sticks on the TX do. Mr Karslake just didn't know how to do it. A 'stick-in-the-mud! Guess that was one customer who wasn't😡 Working models deserve lights like the originals. Even boats like your Hornet probably had at least a white stern lamp to prevent them gettin' rammed up the whatsit😲 Was only pullin' your chain a bit about the LED tester and RF detector anyway😁 Ciao, Doug 😎

Old Futaba servo wiring... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Martin, would have thought the name was self explanatory! 😉 In the attached pic you can see my Robbe Servo Tester at the top. I used it to simulate the proportional signal from a receiver while testing your Taycol converter boards, not to power the motor.😲 Motor power came from the mains PSU in pic two, the battery eliminator circuit (BEC) in the ESC provided power to the tester. The tester provides the signal to drive servos, or in this case an ESC, and saves the faff of setting up TX and RX and fiddling with batteries when I want to test a circuit or function before building it into a boat. Cheers, Doug 😎 Oh, and by the way; when you get into lighting for your boats don't forget to buy an LED Tester as well 😁😁 You could also think about a simple RF Detector / Meter to check if your TX is actually transmitting 😁 Like I did with your TX using a home brew device - OR you could wait til I get around to publishing a Build Blog for the refined version I am making using a couple of RF diodes and a sensitive 300microamp meter 😊

Old Futaba servo wiring... by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi there, I have 30 year old futaba servos running on new 2.4ghz rc receivers with no problems. Cheers Colin.

Old Futaba servo wiring... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi all, just finding gear to put in my Sea Hornet, aka Chris Craft Special Racer Runabout and I find a Futaba FD16 M servo which appears to be OK, but I have a nagging voice telling me that Futaba servos are wired differently? It has white, red, black in that order. Is that OK for plugging into a modern receiver? Cheers, Martin