Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info
Guest
Login Below
Join Us On Social Media!
   
Get The Model Boats App!
Apple App Store
Android app on Google Play


Help Support This Website
£
or enter custom amount

(Non Contributor)

Help support this free
website and donate.



£285 a year is needed to keep the website and apps online. Please consider donating £5 or more to help towards these fees.
All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

Many thanks for your kind support.

Model Boats Website Team


Donation History
December 2017: 4 people
November 2017: 13 people
October 2017: 9 people
September 2017: 15 people
August 2017: 10 people
July 2017: 16 people
June 2017: 8 people
May 2017: 8 people
April 2017: 17 people


Unique Visitors This Month

Website Members

Terms and Conditions
Privacy Policy
Advertising
Contact


Model Boats Website
Active Users (13)
Login or Register
To Remove This Ad

Login or Register
To Remove This Ad
>> Home > Tags > receiver

receiver
receiver
spektrum DX6 tx by Bryan-the-pirate Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
I wish I knew that too, Someone please make it clear how to link a spektrum to a receiver.

DRAGONFLITE 95 by Les-Forbes Captain   Posted: 9 days ago
DRAGONFLITE 95 R/C YACHT JOYSWAY J4C05 RADIO & J5C01R RECEIVER. JOYSWAY 'B' RIG & JOYSWAY 'B' SAIL. Due to failing health. All unused and boxed. Purchased September 2017. Can deliver to Carlisle. £350

Power Cabling by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Hi Neil, How many fuses do you need??? Remember, wherever you put them you need easy access to be able to change a dud fuse without taking the million screws out and removing the whole deck.🤔 I'm considering using the space next to the repositioned battery, just behind the port propshaft hull exit. Another consideration is on your mounting plate forward, but NOT at the edges as you show in your photo cos you'll never get at them when the deck is on 😉 I'm thinking of a 'bridge' across the middle (above where you have the receiver in your photo) so that the fuses protrude above the main deck. Then you can get at 'em easy 😉 I will also save space by using a UBEC to tap off the drive batt for the RX supply instead of a separate RX battery. Pics tomorrow - I hope! Cheers Doug 😎

Power Cabling by NPJ Captain   Posted: 18 days ago
So following a long away week-end of Astronomy, now trying to get a bit further before going away for a couple of days. As I start to wire up the power circuit I realise how important it is to think things through first! Made up the link from the Battery to a ‘choc block’ distribution point which for space reasons is under the ‘control’ platform which will fill the bow area. (Pic 1) The fuse boards were obtained from Component – shop.co.uk Ltd in Bangor which is a good source of all sorts of electrical bits for us and is in Wales! (Pic2) The Dual Esc/Mixer, from the same place, a P94 9Lite), I have secured with Velcro (Pic 3) and I hope to keep the battery on top of this with a little air gap. It is at this point that I really came to appreciate the space limitations (Pic 4) and I do not have the motors wired in yet which will have fuse boards on the ‘platform’. (Pic 5). Next time hope to wire in Motors and Fuse Boards, Sound Generator and Receiver. Then see how it sits in the bath.....! NPJ

Twin Esc/Mixer by NPJ Captain   Posted: 23 days ago
Your advice please.................... Would it be OK to position the Receiver Battery on top of the Esc/Mixer box? As you can see I have cut the holes as required for the Unit! All the best. NPJ

Electronics Down Below (5) by NPJ Captain   Posted: 29 days ago
This time I will try to remember to put in the ‘source’ information on the bits and pieces I use........... In the most recent piece I should have included exciters/transducers are Dayton Audio DAEX 25VT -4, 4 Ohms – 20 Watt pair, obtained from Sound Imports Netherlands and very quickly as well. The sound unit is a Mtroniks Digisound 5M diesel sound, available all over the place. Now to look at where I am at. Exciters are in place as high up the Hull as possible, but remembering the Deck level. Used the adhesive pads as supplied after wiping that part of the Hull with Meths and Silicone adhesive to keep in place as well as using the wiring tidies from Modelsport Ltd., for the cabling. (Pic 1+2) Before I start the motor and controller wiring I changed the platform ‘up front’ (pic3) with a piece of thin ply which I have given a couple of coats of varnish to waterproof. Then I thought to myself “why am I waterproofing this when, if it gets that wet, it will have gone to the bottom and be useless anyway”! (Pics 4) However, the platform gives a little more choice in terms of layout of other components and my plan for them is not really settled yet. I am concerned about the stern and possible swamping, but it currently seems the best place for the upgraded battery. (Pic5 ) Whilst talking batteries, I have gone for a separate battery supply for the receiver and hope to use the Bec supply for running other less critical items. Also the fitting of the battery in the stern bay drew my attention to the rudder servo for a couple of reasons. First is I am still considering increasing the size of the rudders and I am assuming that will increase the strain on the servo. The servo supplied is a standard issue and not water resistant so I have gone for an upgrade as shown(Pic6) That gives torque increase of 17Kg/cm over the Hobby Engine S1040C and has metal gears, metal control arm and waterproof for 20grams extra weight. Second is the closeness to the new battery position. So I was going to alter the servo arm setup anyway and the new metal arm suits this well. Maybe my ‘tutors’ will consider all this to be a little ‘over the top’ but I do so enjoy messing......................... New Servo DS 3218 by AYANI from Amazon. (Pics 6/7 ) Following that distraction, back to the front end and the Motor/Mixer placing and wiring. Now a little time ago I drew a plan to see what could go where and it came out that most of the ‘bits’ would go in the front bay with motors to be wired once power was brought forward, followed by the Esc/Mixer. (Pic 8) At that time I bought a P94 dual esc/mixer from Action Electronics and got the 20 amp version to be on the safe side................. My ‘guardians’ did point out this was ‘over-kill’ but I had already got it. Now, when placing the unit on the mounting board I found that the heatsinks made it too high to fit in the Hull! So being a spoilt brat only child I ordered the 10 amp version and as usual it came very quickly from up here in Bangor. ( Will keep the other one for the next project............Happy Hunter??) Unboxed it and it looked just the same, heatsinks and all. (Pic 9/10 ) So at that moment there was a bit of a set-back so I rang Component Shop at Bangor, they said “take the heat sinks off and you have a P94 lite”! Such a simple answer and such a nice chap. (Pic 11 ) Now a quick 'measure up' before I have a glass of wine (Pic 12) and does it all fit...? Well it appears to at the moment! (Pic 13) Next time really going to screw down the components under the forward hatch and wire it up. NPJ

rotating radars off mast by kmbcsecretary Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
I have used the kits from Mr rc World he has option of motors and the controller that comes with it gives you the fine control to set the speed of rotation to what you want and powered by your receiver pack You can find him on flea bay or on the Web

RSS P71 Sovereignty by cormorant Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I like the microswitch idea. If I have enough channels I usually use a Rx operated switch https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy- style='background-color:yellow;'>receiver-controlled-switch-1.html?___store=en_us

Twin motor control problem by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Dave, mtroinks have switches, so maybe when it had the pair of vipers, they where for the esc's? I would disconnect the red signal wire from the receiver end on the "y" harness, and use a separate 6v receiver supply, I have a number of twin screw setups, with a cheap battery monitor, if the esc fails, you still at least have rudder control, if the feed esc goes down, power is lost to the receiver, ensure you have a failsafe set at zero throttle. With spectrum, its usually automatic, unless...... you have reversed the throttle! that means you throttle will go wide open in event of esc failure. Easy test, on the bench, all set up to go, make sure all the props etc are clear, just turn your transmitter off, see what happens, nothing should! Have you done the range test? you might have been lucky having it go in reverse, Also, the gunner that is holding the esc wire, is he wearing a Teflon glove? His hand might get hot

Motor problem by RichardSReade Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
I looked at the Cornwall model site and saw that, what i have decided to do is to leave the two Ni cad batteries in situ and I have weighed the rear/mid section lead weight and it is just 56 grams heavier than the 12 volt 7 amp/h lead acid alarm battery so I will use the 12 volt battery and ditch the lead, the weight of the boat will be the same, I also trimmed the lead at the front end so the bow will come up a fraction more. I have taken the prop of and measured it to be a 55mm, so I am going to fit the water intake, hopefully with some advice from the forum "techys"as to the position, in the photos this is where I can fit it so it is out of the way of the rudder and prop.what do you reckon, I can then get a suitable motor with a water jacket which will be happy to run on 12 volt with enough power not to get hot turning a 45 to 50 mm two blade "x" prop, as suggested by pmdevlin, I may get the Lloydsman up and running as all that needs is dusting of and batteries charging up, (two 12 volt 7amp/h in parallel) and the receiver from the commander fitted although I have not floated it I bought it as a complete working model in 2015, so it is about time it came out of dry dock, also I can look to repairing the rigging and finishing the Odessy Yacht I bought at the same time as the Llyodsman also in dry dock.

Twin motor control problem by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I've breezed through this so apologies if I missed something. There is no way the boat will magically go into reverse when transporting from the bench to the water. If it works on the bench, it will work in the water, out of interest, how do you know its going the right way on the bench? you might have the props on the wrong way around if directional, so its actually going in reverse on the bench. You can run multiple motors with one spectrum receiver, I have done it several times, with boats and planes, so its not that. Your later posts suggest more is amiss here, it could be a signal issue, as you say it sometimes works? Have you done a range test? If you have not, This needs to be the very next job you do. Not knowing specificallky what tx you have, eg the dx6i has a built in range test, and needs to be done from all angles, and should work at least 20 metres from the boat. This needs to be a must on all models. I do this every time I sail or fly, every time, I don't want to lose a model due to signal loss, which depending on the failsafe being set, can result in full throttle and loss of control, that's another topic I suppose! Mtrokiks are pretty much bullet proof, forget those Chinese blue things, the issue isn't the escs, its the set up. Get the mixer out, use a "y" lead between the receiver leads, disconnect both red wires, and use a separate receiver 6v feed into the receiver, plug in the esc's, watch the lights to see if they set ok (assuming you have throttle range set them separate first), then range check, nw throttle on the bench, one at a time, with a tissue behind the prop to ensure they are going the correct way, belive me when I say its an easy mistake to make thinking a twin set up has both props with the correct direction when one isn't!😊 I see you are at Bury, thats a big well established club, has anybody there taken a look for you, seeing it in action is so much easier than over a keyboard! If you fancy a trip to the Wirral Ill gladly sort it for you Paul

Twin motor control problem by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Your problem is interesting me one other thought is:- when the boat is out of the water the loading ( current) is way lower than the same motors in the water. It may be possible that the increased current is causing the voltage to " sag" and thus cause all sorts of strange effects. One simple thing you could try is to remove the red lead from the ESC(s) and power the receiver from its own battery. That's the red lead to the RX not the ones to the battery. If you can use a watt meter to read the battery voltage and current draw with the boat in the water.

Twin motor control problem by Colin T Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
John, I had a problem with my Aerokits Solent lifeboat. What I discovered was that my receiver (I use a Spektrum DX6i) could not continuously feed two ESCs. Alternately the ESCs went into failsafe mode. I eventually solved my problem by binding a second receiver to my transmitter. I now use each ESC, which are Mtroniks Tio Marine 50, on their own receiver. I have retained the BECs on both receivers. This may help you.

Bulwarks - and 1st blood! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Today has seen the rudders, rudder servo, receiver and first bow bulwark fitted. First job this morning was rudders and servo. I have used a long servo arm to get as much throw as possible on the rudders and spares from my Aircraft RC box for pushrods, clevices etc. Rudders turning in correct direction with good deflections both ways. I havnt used any expo as would be the case with my aircraft figuring that smallish rudders on a big boat will need big input responces to get her to turn. will adjust at the tranny if required. Have made a good start on the bow Bulwarks. My method was a sandwich of 1.5mm ply with a 1.5mm balsa infil between. This allowed curving to the shape of the hull with ease. I have added varios bits of trim to give it some life including spruce strip reinforcments on the inside, a piece of litho plate over the hole and plasticard trim on the top surface to finish it. At this point I managed to scalpel my finger whilst triming leaving blood on the balwark!! The Bulwarks are of a sufficient thickness to allow the stanchions to be mounted ontop of the balwarks as per the real thing. Plan to finish all Bulwarks tomorrow and hopefully start adding deck details like bollards etc. Last job of the day was glossing the stanchions which are now ready to install.

JOYSWAY DRAGONFLITE 95 TRANSMITTER by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Les, unscrew the back and look at the gimbal mountings, there will be 2 or 4 screws on each gimbal, turn each gimbal through 90 degrees, refit the screws, switch the receiver plugs that should be it!!! Mark