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>> Home > Tags > renovation

renovation
delamination
donation
lindberg cc constellation
navigation
navigation light
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portland model power boat association
restoration
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renovation
It's a sad day!. by wunwinglo Lieutenant   Posted: 9 days ago
I can well imagine how you feel about your i.c. models. My recent renovation/recommissioning of my late father's Vosper MTB is kind of ironic in that it last ran in 1962 when noise suddenly became an issue. Mind you, it was VERY loud. My rebuild, needless to say, was centred around brushless motors and lipo's. But I also put an excellent sound system into it as it was so quiet. The system, by Action Electronics and is nice and loud as per the full-size but it does seem ironic that I felt the need to put sound(noise) back in! I use lots of small diesels in free-flight model aircraft and still hugely enjoy getting them 'singing' and savouring the wonderful smell in the car going home afterwards!

Sea Commander restoration tips by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi Laurence, check out the Build Blogs on this site. There are many covering various 'Seas', including my Sea Scout renovation with lots of tips re painting and varnishing. https://model-boats.com/builds/view/28209 Last pic shows the 'before' state after 20 odd years in the cellar! Have fun, cheers Doug 😎

Getting ready by Jerry Todd Commander   Posted: 25 days ago
I've done a lot of renovation, reconstruction, and repair work on models for antique shops and such, and much of that experience went into Constellation and other models. As a working model, thing wear, need to be adjusted, repaired, and replaced much more often than a static model, and she's built with that in mind from access to how things are put together. The parrell bands from a post or two ago are a prime example. The real ones are hinged, but mine needed to also hinge not only to be authentic, but at some point I might need them to come off, and unless they hinge, I'd need to take half the rig apart to get them off. That ring-thing I mention in the last post is much the same, It won't really be a closed ring, but may be more like a hinged key-ring, like in this picture. For me, making a working model is 40% "how will I get it there and back," and 70% "how will I fix that if it breaks?"

Bits n pieces arrived / Aft Deck Mk 2 built ;-) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I think you're right Donnie, a renovation is often more difficult and time consuming than a new build! That's good to hear about the E-Z connectors, do you have a link to an On-line shop by any chance? BTW: saw your post about Krampus' sailing area, actually I wanted to be there as well but my boat ain't ready yet 😭 attached a few pics of my 'Home Port' in Munich, 3rd pic shows the corner where I sail from, right next to the Biergarten😋, cheers Doug😎

Bits n pieces arrived / Aft Deck Mk 2 built ;-) by Donnieboy Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Doug,my thoughts are that a renovation is as close to a build you can get.It's done with love.We can still buy E-Z connectors here in Toronto.Let me know when you need some.

Bits n pieces arrived / Aft Deck Mk 2 built ;-) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Thanks Donnie, much appreciated👍 😊 Not so much a build as a renovation but she's not doin' so bad for 55! Spent the last coupla days cutting and trimming 3 of the 5 windows out of 3mm perspex, not as simple as I'd imagined - but that's another update 😉 Like to think that Dad's lookin' down and approves. BTW: can you still buy the E-Z connectors? Still have a few but would be good to know where to get some more. Cheers Doug 😎

Re: Donnieboy's Gina 2 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Good tip, will investigate how to do that, and keep her watertight, when I get around to the renovation. 😎

Amsterdam Tug renovation/converstion by PMBDTCentral Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Picked up a rather battered wooden hulled Amsterdam tug last Thursday. The intention is to give it some much needed TLC and convert it to one of the French Tenace Class tugs. It will be used as my clubs camera / rescue boat so accuracy and detail will come second to the functionality of its role. Currently I have stripped out everything except the motor so I can fit some strengthening and improve the watertightness of the hull

New Member by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Richard, Re fitting the M500 see my answer in 'Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute'. Nice fleet, good work 👍 Your 'Norden' is very similar to the Billing Danish Fish Cutter on my renovation list! Cheers Doug 😎

up date by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I can well appreciate that Cliff, I'm finally beginning to see results on my Sea Scout renovation. Have started on the twiddly bits like deck fittings. Your railings look really neat, I doff my hat😉 Cheers Doug 😎

Sanding down. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Peter, you're right about the sanding down. Take your time and apply a generous Dollop of Patience 😉 Any short cuts here will show up all through the painting process 🤔 See my Sea Scout 'Jessica' renovation blog re hull restoration!! My motto for painting is 'Brush for little fiddly bits, spray for big bits' e.g. hulls. I agree model shop spray cans are usually small and relatively expensive for big hull. I use giant cans from the professional suppliers, again see my Sea Scout blog for descriptions and suppliers. Also agree about care with the thin skins. After sanding and sealing, with Lord Nelson pore sealer, I reinforced my Sea Scout inside (where I could get to!) and out with DeluxeMaterials EzeKote resin. It's not the cheapest but it's water based, doesn't pong and doesn't need mixing with hardener Brushes just wash out in warm water. Couldn't be easier 😊 Flat off starting with about 600 or 1000 grit annd work up to 3000 grit and you should end up with a finish like glass - see decks of my Sea Scout😊 For my ELCO PTB I bought Colour Coats MTB Green (from Sovereign Hobbies in UK) for the darker camo patches and Italeri Flat Sky, # 4856, which is almost identical to the lighter Pacific Green for the base coat. After painting and detailing, pennant number and decals and such, I shall seal it all with a matt spray varnish. i use the big Lord Nelson spray cans for that. Re Gun Tubs: love the gun carriages but I guess they're much too big for my 28" boat. 😭 BTW: forward gun tub is too far forward. It should be further aft just in front of the screen round the bridge entrance starboard side and should be set half into the forward cabin. Just cut half of the lower section of the tub away on the inboard side to match the cabin height. See pics. You might find this Pinterest site useful for more detail👍 https://www.pinterest.de/pin/557039047643301834/ Register to get full access, it's free and you can get updates for the things that interest you. Hi Ray, attached are pdf files of the Aerokits plan. Just scale up to what you need and awaaay you go 😉 Look forward to the Blog👍 Cheers Doug 😎

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Glad to help Peter, I was a Brushless & LiPo newbie last year, guys like Canabus, Dave_M and co helped me make the quantum leap. Being a retired electronics engineer helped as well 😉 Know what you mean about 'a change now and again'! Did I mention that renovations / upgrades are often more awkward and time consuming than a new build? 🤔 I have a few other 'odds n ends' on the go for a break from the Sea Scout renovation. A Deans Marine HMS Manxman, an Alexander Engel GmbH AKULA II sub, and a Dynam PBY Catalina kit are queued up in the planning and research stages. Kit boxes are clogging up the cellar! Bits and pieces for various 1/350 Plastic Magic projects are being collected and prepared! It's all Go folks😊 Happy hunting at CMB, longish drive for me 🤔 Cheers Doug 😎

Renovating my Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat. by MouldBuilder Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
I built this Aerokits Patrol Torpedo boat over about ten years and finished, as I found painted under one of the life rafts, in 1993. I sailed it at my local pond and all went very well. The only problem I had was the speed. It was quite slow. The MFA brushed motor was strong but slow. I have received a lot of help so far on this site for which I am grateful. I have decided to do a complete renovation which is scheduled to be completed whenever. I work all day so can only spend limited time doing this. We will see how it goes. I must admit that I am not too concerned with the result being authentic to the prototype. If it looks good and I like it, that`s good. Sorry if you like things to be perfect to the original. If you see something I plan to do which you feel can be tackled differently, please shout. I may not always follow advice but I will always listen. I have attached a few pictures of the boat as it is for reference. It`s still not too bad for 35 years old. Just in case you notice, I have no idea as to why I thought it was a good idea to block the Captains view with a gun tub.😱 I will be stripping the deck back to bare bones soon so will post more soon. Thanks for looking and in advance for all the help that I am sure is just around the corner😊

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat by MouldBuilder Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Biggles. I am at a very similar level to you. I am seeking help from the kind members so that I can improve my skills. I built this boat in 1993, which by the way, I had no idea about until I removed one of the life rafts to find I had painted the completion date on the bottom. I am currently stripping the paint and trying to get advice on the painting method. At present I am tending to favour air brushing Revell aqua paint but I am open to other views. As for the spray rail, my boat has never gone fast enough to need them. To be clear, is this the rail around the joint between the hull and deck which my boat has. Told you I was a beginner as well. With the more powerful motor, anything that keeps water from the electrics must be good. The gun was supplied by Battlecraft in Bideford. It is in 1:24 scale. I have just purchased a 40mm Bofors for the stern. Nothing like a lot of weapons. Perhaps I should have some torpedoes one day.😁 I have just bought a 3648 1450kv motor from Hobbyking for mine. I am advised that this will sort out my slow speed problem. I have also been advised to fit Lipo batteries. I probably will once I get over the thought of a large fireball on the river or in my house during charging.😉 Would love to hear how the renovation goes. I am considering starting a build blog as it might be a good source of gaining extra knowledge. I am not sure if a restoration will be ok on the build blog so I would appreciate if a member in the know could comment on this. Work keeps getting in the way of my plans but one day!! Peter.😊

1960S Taycol electric motor by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi All. all good advice for the normal brushed motors in cans with carbon brushes. But the Taycol is a totally different animal! It has no carbon brushes. They are simply stamped thin copper or phosphor bronze sheet. Contrary to carbon brushes they need OILING to reduce the wear and sparking! Attached are some pics from my Taycol Target renovation and modification to graphically illustrate the point. Pic one 'Before', pic 2 the new phosphor bronze brushes I made. BTW: don't EVER put oil on your carbon brushes! Try it if you're curious, but then buy a new motor or try to find some replacement brushes 😉 If you run the Taycols dry they wear the brushes through until they have a hole in the middle and spark like crazy Pic 1. You can put what capacitors you like on, you'll still get interference especially at 27MHz. Pic 3 shows the effect this has on the commutator. Pic 4 shows the renovated commutator, there was more 'meat' left on it than I expected😊 Pic 2 shows the new brushes I made from phosphor bronze sheet. The spark energy density spectrum peaks in the HF band (e.g. 27MHz!) and falls off rapidly in the VHF band (30MHz upwards) to virtually nothing in the UHF and Gigahertz bands. That (and the frequency hopping process the 2.4Gig sets use) is why they don't suffer such interference. BTW: as a matter of probably no interest 😉 most sets only use 16 or 32 of the 85 frequencies available in the band! 😲 The capacitor values given above are unusual and will only work with a 'canned' motor, which the Taycol ain't! The norm for a standard canned motor with carbon brushes would be 0.1µF across the terminals and 0.047µF from each terminal to the can, which with a Taycol you ain't got! Earthing to the prop shaft is also a problem. Where do you connect the wire? There's no 'can'. Frame? That's paxolin! try soldering to laminated iron core if you want. Good luck. Won't achieve much even if you manage it🤔 Once again I ask which Taycol you have, as the construction varies and hence the suppression methods / connections. Imperative is the condition of the brushes and commutator to minimise the intensity of the spark generation in the first place! Also important is how you are controlling the speed: also 'Period' with a Bob's Board or resistor coil and servo driven wiper?? These can also be spark sources😡 Never mind wasting precious battery power as heat😲 If you want to convert to using an ESC with proportional forwards and reverse, which Taycol field motors can not do without reversing the polarity of EITHER the field coil or the rotor coil but not both, I can show you how. I did it with Dad's old Taycol Target, see my Build Blog 'Sea Scout Jessica'. Pic 5 shows my Taycol target dismantled, before the renovation. Pics 6 & 7 the reassembled motor after renovation. Pic 8 shows the motor voltage across the terminals before the conversion, complete with gigantic sparks of amplitude 100% of supply voltage. Pics 9 & 10 show the waveform on the terminals of the modified motor at slow and fast speeds, hence different pulse width; broad pulse more speed, narrow less speed. BUT: virtually NO SPARKS😊 and no capacitors😊 Trick is in the bridge rectifier used to connect the motor to a standard brushed ESC. The diodes in the rectifier suppress the sparks😊 Pic 11 shows the wiring 'lash-up' I made to test the motor before mods. Pic 12 the PSU used for the tests. ESC is a 30A Graupner Navy. Instead of TX and RX I used a simple servo tester to drive the ESC. Scope used speaks for itself! As expected speed control was possible but no reverse. Media File 1 Vid shows the renovated motor running but unmodified, complete with sparks😡 Sorry Dave_M, I can't upload the ozone smell🤔 Media File 2 shows the scope display of the unmodified motor test, complete with the sparks that cause the kind of interference you are suffering from. Wanted to add the final vid showing the clean waveform after the mods but it's too big for the site: 30MB max and the vid is 47MB 😭 Penultimate pic shows the circuit used to connect to a standard ESC (Brushed!) for full remote control proportional forward and reverse. Final pic shows the test set up for the fully modified motor. Note 4 connections: 2 to field coil, 2 to brushes (i.e. rotor coil) as per circuit diagram of the interface board. Have fun, cheers Doug 😎