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Model Boats Website Team
December 2017: 5 people November 2017: 13 people October 2017: 9 people September 2017: 15 people August 2017: 10 people July 2017: 16 people June 2017: 8 people May 2017: 8 people April 2017: 16 people
This day has seen the midnight blue airbrushed on followed by a thin coat of lacquer to give the roundel and trimline a good surface to stick too. Numbers to go on when they arrive from eBay. Having given the inside of the hull 2 coats of resin to waterproof it, I’ve now installed all The electronics, just the rudder pushrod to make and add. Next few days will see little progress as starting nights tonight!
[Score: 8/10] 35"/3400g USCGC KATMAI BAY (WTGB-101 Capable of 14mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (5 Blade 45mm) Direct Drive to a 775 Johnson type (5 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Dimart 320A Fan cooled (10Amps) ESC - Comments: 1:48 scale Replica of USCGC KATMAI BAY (WTGB-101), fiberglass hull & 3/4" plywood cabin/superstructure, molded by Al Mergens @ Coast Guard Models in Elk Grove Village, IL. Most likely the last Bay Class hulls that Al will produce, as he is retiring from this craft soon. I wish I could afford to relieve him of the molds; he has one for just about every USCG cutter and coastal craft that was built. As a safer alternative due to COPD, I would use polyester fabric & resin instead of fiberglass. She is a great matching scale companion to my USCGC VIGOROUS (WMEC-627) model from the same source. THANKS AL! SEMPER PARATUS! GOD BLESS AMERICA! YES, MR. ARNOLD PALMER WAS A US COAST GUARDSMAN (YM3) 1950-53
Finished “Costa” planking today and have put in most of the edge strip (need more strip, model shop Friday!). Jobs to do before I start the superstructure, finish laying out the RC components, fit rudder parts, make battery tray etc. Put in a 1/4 square strip around deck opening to prevent water ingress. Couple of coats of resin inside radio bay, 1 more outside, sand and prime. Sand, stain and yacht varnish deck. One question on a water pick-up as using a water cooled ESC! Outlet will be in the transom, does it matter where the pick-up is located?
Slow weekend due to family commitments unfortunately! Managed to get the deck pieces fitted and that’s it! I’ve bought the model number not work today, so will apply another couple of coats of resin to the hull today and tomorrow’s lunch hour!
First piece of decking added at the bow. I’ve used a lamination of 1.5mm mahogany and 1.5mm obechi, this will be stained and varnished at the end. I’ve also added the mid chine rubbing strake from 1/32 x 2/16 ply, blended, filled and primed and sanded with sanding sealer. Hull exterior finished apart from 2 thin coats of resin. Next job is the fit remaining deck pieces which are currently glued and laminating under some heavy books!
Started to add the finishing touches to the hull; portholes, a bulwark capping strip and bilge keels. The portholes were drilled to the outside diameter on the drawing and small sections of styrene tube epoxied in. These were then drilled out and smoothed to the hull contour. Once the hull is painted lenses will be added usimg clear epoxy. The bulwark capping strip is a small styrene “U” section CA glued along the top of the bulwarks. This tidies up the edge and gives a smooth, consistent appearance. Have never been satisfied with previous attempts at bilge keels. Tried making them from both styrene and wood, pinned and epoxied into place. Not very robust, although they looked fine. Plenty of scope for repairs! Decided to try another approach on this model. Purchased strips of 1/4” L shaped styrene and CA glued them into position on the underside of the hull, with the leg facing in towards the keel. Filled the gaps on both sides of the styrene with fibre-glass resin and then rubbed them down, feathering the edges of the bilge keel into the hull. These bilge keels are nice and strong and, from the outside, the bodge is not visible. It can been just seen from the underside if the model ever gets inverted. Hope that is unlikely though! From here on the construction will follow well established principles, so will only write bog updates as significant milestones are achieved.
So, have mounted the motor having set it all up nice and straight, result is nice smooth prop shaft no binding. Have finished the obechi deck surround and finished the day glass clothing the other side of the hull. Next job is a couple of coats of thinned resin to finish the hull then it’s on with the deck pieces.
[Score: 9/10] 35"/4500g CG-40564 Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 45mins Twin Propellors (4 Blade 50mm) Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE 6-12V (4 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through HOBBYWING (15Amps) ESC - Comments: DUMAS 1:14 USCG 40' UTB. REPRESENTING US COAST GUARD UTILITY BOAT CG-40564, WHICH CAPSIZED DURING A RESCUE ATTEMPT ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER BAR ON 17 JAN 1961. HER CREW WAS FORTUNATELY RESCUED. SHE WAS ASSISTING CG-52301, A 52' TYPE F WOODEN MLB, WHICH FOUNDERED WITH THE LOSS OF ALL HANDS. IT REMAINS THE WORST SMALL BOAT RESCUE DISASTER IN COAST GUARD HISTORY. THIS IS AN UNUSUAL SCALE BALSA PLANK-ON, COVERED BY 2 OZ FIBERGLASS. I USED MINWAX POLYURETHANE FOR AN ALTERNATE TO RESIN, WHICH TURNED OUT WELL, AND CAN BE DONE WITH MINIMAL VENTILATION. WITH BIRCH PLY DECK & CABINS, 1/8" SCRIBED SHEATHING COVERS THE DECK BOW TO STERN AND MAHOGANY TRIM LEFTOVER FROM ANOTHER DUMAS KIT IN MY SCALE SHIPYARD. STOCK D/C FITTINGS WITH SOME SUPPLEMENTAL PREMADE AND HANDMADE ITEMS. SHE FEATURES TWIN RABOESCH 4-BLADE WIDE FLUKE WHEELS AND MATCHING RUDDERS; WORKING HATCHES WITH STOWAGE AREA FOR ANCHOR & TOWLINE, LIGHTHOUSE 9V LED NAV LIGHTS AND FLASHING LED LAW ENFORCEMENT BLUE LIGHT (RC CONTROLLED). I'M ADDING A MOUNT FOR A SCALE BROWNING M2 50 CAL THAT I WAS ABLE TO PRODUCE ON MY 3D PRINTER. THAT'S AN ADVENTURE IN ITSELF. THIS WAS MY FIRST REAL PLANK ON BULKHEAD, AND BALSAWOOD CAN BE A LIL TRICKY, BUT WILL ALWAYS BE THE STANDARD OF WHICH I COMPARE ALL MY SUBSEQUENT BUILDS. MY FATHER BUILT RC AIRCRAFT, AND ALWAYS PREACHED THAT YOU SHOULD OVERBUILD IN ORDER TO SURVIVE A CRACK-UP AND FLY ANOTHER DAY! THAT'S MY CREED WITH BOATS. OVERBUILD!!! THANK YOU DAD! BTW-FYI-MR. ARNOLD PALMER WAS A US COAST GUARDSMAN (YM3) 1950-53
There was considerable sanding required around the bow. Once complete, decided to continue and remove all the hull detail not appropriate to the Teakwood. Used an orbital sander for this and it turned out nicely. The detail seems to only be in the gell coat and the actual glass – fibre core was untouched. Suggest do this outside and wear a mask as it creates a lot of dust. Had originally thought of covering the bow with light glass – fibre cloth and stippling it down with resin. After looking at the bow area decided that a coat of glass – fibre resin, applied to the new portion and extending an inch or so into the original hull would be adequate. The wood filler / styrene / steel wire structure is quite rigid and robust. This has turned out nicely and the bow area is now complete. Retained the anchor hawse pipe detail as, much to my surprise, it is in the correct location for the Teakwood. Inspected the hull shell from all angles (this usually any reveals errors or inconsistencies), pertinent dimensions were also checked with a steel rule, protractor and a spirit level. Found nothing amiss. Whilst cannot be absolutely positive the bow entry lines are correct (do not have a lines plan), checked them against a number of similar vessels. These range from the Liberty, through SD 14 to the “City of Toronto” - which is of a similar vintage. They look quite close. Have now completed the major transformation of the Velarde hull into the Teakwood and can move onto the remainder of the build.
[Score: 5/10] 34"/3400g Swordsman hull Twin Propellors (3 Blade 45mm) Direct Drive to a Johnson 600 x 2 (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 7Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese (80Amps) ESC - Comments: This was my first serious attempt at model boating and the hull a Swordsman fibreglass 34.1/2" was purchases 50 years ago from Radio Control supplies Isleworth in 1967 along with a used RCS Sequential radio. Over the years it's been powered by an ED 2.46 Racer a Merco 35 and finally my treasured OS61 VRM With a tuned pipe from Prestwich model boats. Now it's time for a a total rebuild so i,be decided to try twin contra rotating screws and brushed 600 motors. I'm looking to fit a superstructure akin to a Sea King. So far the hull has been stripped of all its hardware and all holes made good with resin and glass fibre tape. Currently making jigs to set up the two new propshafts More to follow
Today has seen some more progress. I have modified the battery tray to take the battery lying down to lower the CofG and get as much weight as possible below the intended waterline. Have done the finishing touches to the superstructure and now considered that finished. I am sure I could add some more lumps, bumps, antennas ect but where do draw the line? At the end of the day I consider this near scale and if inacurate in anyway then so be it, the original Aerokits was only really semi-scale anyway. What is important is that I am pleased with it so far and I am sure she will look great on the lake! Last job today was to give the hull a light sand and a final coat of resin making 3 in total. Once off, and sanded that should see the hull ready for painting once ive added the fore/aft deck thingies (dont know what they are called?) If anyone can offer some advice on how to fit the rubbing strake when I get there that would be useful. Ive a length of 10mm black flexible tubing to use. Do I leave it as a tube, cut it any way or what? I presume its nailed to the side of the hull?
My other concern now is whether or not to add the 3 crew figures I’ve bought. They being resin are quite heavy and will of course be on the deck and adding weight above the waterline could cause balance issues? Coming from scale RC aircraft, there is nothing worse than “no pilot in the office” and adding figures to scale boats to me adds that human touch. We will see?
Started back on doing some work on the inside today. On/Off switch, ESC, 2 x Motors (MFA 800), Prop shafts and Prop shaft supports fitted. Another coat of 2 part resin and a coat of varnish inside to end the day. Tomorrow plan on getting the battery/sound card/speaker tray in and to give the outside of the hull its 3rd and final coat of resin before its ready to final sand and start the painting. Jusdt a couple of very small jobs left on the upper superstructure and will call that finished! Hope to have a video uploaded tomorrow showing working lights and radar (providing the searchlight arrives from eBay, if not wednesday.
As the stern needed the most reshaping, decided to tackle it first. Made up a wooden insert to reflect the correct deck stern contour and glued it in between the deck supports. This would give the stern be the correct shape and length. Once that was positioned pulled the hull up tight to the supports. As the stern is approached the sharper profile of the Teakwood requires the hull sides to be pulled firmly inwards and the transom be vertical. Decided this was not going to epoxy and stay in place satisfactorily once the strain was released, so cut a series of vertical slots in the rear hull to allow it relax and squeeze it together. One slot has to be quite deep, otherwise the lower hull will crack as it will not relax sufficiently. Used the Dremel cutting disc for this. The slots need to be quite generous as the the hull has to be pulled in some distance. Once this was all epoxied in place, wrapped “cling film” around the rear of the hull and poured liquid fibreglass resin around the slots and under the insert to bond everything together. Worked this onto all the vertical and horizontal surfaces as it set. The stern is now good and rigid. The attached pictures show the new stern profile and slots. The first pictures are “as is” to illustrate the process. Further work was also needed to true up the bulwarks and disguise the slots. This mutilation may seem a brutal way of getting the hull shape correct, but had tried all kinds of pulling and squeezing of the hull, none of which held in place after the clamps were released. Once the cosmetic aspects of the stern rework were complete, established the correct location for the rudder post and fitted it. The major stern work is now finished.
[Score: 9/10] 60"/7600g Schooner - Comments: Scratch built with mahogany planks on the club's mould. Glass cloth and fibreglass inside and protected with G4 polyurethane resin all over. Uses a sail winch (Hitec) and travelling dolly for the two main sails and a separate arm servo for the foresails. Standard servo for the rudder. Power is from a 6.6v 1000mA LiFe battery. Taranis Tx using two sticks with the sail servos connected via an internal mixer to one stick. Ballast is fixed to the keel with two studs which extend into the hull where a steel bar is attached between both and acts as a carrying handle.