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Hi chugalone 100 Welcome to the site. You can fibreglass with different types of resin and cloth. If you are making and casting a fibreglass hull use fibreglass matting but to cover a hull lightweight fibreglass cloth is best. This is the type shown in the suggested video. Resin can be epoxy or polyester based but the latter is generally cheaper and in my opinion is easier to use and doesn't require thinning with alcohol. It is sold as layup resin and is supplied with hardener. Do follow the instructions re quantity of each part and mix thoroughly. If you are using epoxy Iso Propyl Alcohol is the type to use and is clear. The video shows using a brush to apply the resin and whilst this is OK it will give a very thick and heavy coating. I use the brush to apply and then a credit card sized piece of plasticard to spread the resin over and into the surface of the cloth resulting in an almost opaque finish with the weave showing through. You do need to have a good surface to work with as any imperfections will show when the resin hardens. Once dry give a light sanding all over to remove any imperfections and fill any holes with car body filler and sand smooth. I then apply a very thin top coat of the resin using a brush. When dry use wet and dry to sand and if necessary apply further thin coats until you have the finish you require. I have a local supplier and if you visit the site http://www.resin-supplie s.co.uk/product.htm all the resins/cloths etc are listed. Using Google should bring up a local supplier. you do need to follow the safety instructions to protect yourself and wear appropriate protection for your hands, eyes and breathing, it is also best to apply in a well ventilated area and not on a cold day. The end result will be well worth the effort to keep your tug waterproof. You could also paint the resin over thye inside of the hull to protect the wood from any water that doeos find its way inside. Dave
Resin and Glass fiber Tissue. The tissue will just hold the resin and give a good seal. Wet the area with resin first..... then lay over the tissue. The tissue does have a certain amount of stretch to it. Easy to join just tear the edges and dab on with resin using . soft brush. Very soft stippling required. The grp Tissue has NO strength to it as is NOT structural just used to get a smoother Finish when Laminating Grp Not Easy to apply but easy to sand off if you make an error.
Hi Ed What a bummer. I agree with Mark on how to find the leak(s). I have looked back over your blog and on page three you mentioned the plasticard hull had split and you showed a pic and the subsequent repair. I suspect this or a similar joint where the plasticard is bent may be your problem. You have mentioned resin covering but this may not have been possible. What glue did you use? Plastic can be difficult to glue. Stablitz Express was the best when I used to build the Robbe and Graupner model planes. Not cheap but works. UHU Plus Acrylit ( a direct substitute) is available in the UK, Leeds Model Centre http://www.modelshopleeds.co.u k/ have stock, use the site search to find it. Hope you find and cure. Dave
Received the MB March edition in the mail yesterday. I was pleasantly surprised Dave Wooley decided to scratch build a Russian OSA 2 Missile Boat. I started a similar project late last year. Like Dave, I had no plans and only very few photos (only pictures from the static plastic Merit kit). My hull is a modified version of Glynn Guest's MTB (MB2009 edition). The hull is enlarged by 15% from the original plan, the additional front deck of the Vosper MTB is eliminated plus I modified the top half of the hull to obtain a more "v" shaped look. Model is all balsa and hull is cured with old panty hose and resin. First tests in pond were positive, aside from Antenna breaking off on maiden voyage. Superstructure need further work but might wait till I see Dave's ideas for further inspiration. I've got 2 other models in my dock yard so plenty on hands anyway. Cheers from Newcastle Australia. J.
Suggest try a mixture of old car wheel weights. The radial ones are usually good where they can be slide in and for more congested spaces use the square stick on ones. Most tyre companies are only too pleased to get rid of them. Leave them to soak in paint stripper, wash well in cold water and most of the old paint and adhesive will come off. The remainder can be got off with mechanical endeavours. Once located, saturate in glass fibre resin and they are fastened in for life. If they need to be removable use double sided tape.
[Score: 5/10] 15" built from scratch Single Propellor Direct Drive Powered by NiCad (1.2v) Batteries - Comments: This is an unfinished boat i started making for my grandson about 3 years ago. I had it running in the swimming pool with 1 AA battery temperately wired up to the motor. It is made out of balsa and coated in resin
Hi aeromodeller Welcome to the site. Sounds like a good project. Delaminated wood is not good so I hope your glue and clamps will fix the problem. Is the hull painted? It is usually best to strip back to the wood and cover with cloth and resin all over plus more resin on the inside to keep the water away from the wood. With your timescale this may not be an option, but you could possibly tissue cover the hull with sanding sealer/dope then repaint. Even a coat of dope on the inside will help. You will need a brushless ESC with reverse. If the propshaft is damaged or you can feel play in the bearings it may need replacing or new bearings fitted to the proptube. The rudder will need a servo and you should be good to go. Not sure of the price of crystals but you can buy 2.4Ghz cheap combo set for about £20 and even the short range will not be a problem for a model boat. A pic will allow more specific support for the model Dave
Various wood used ie, Ramin, Mahogani, Annegre, Veneer ply, Balsa. Strip planking is Obechi. Glues used: Cyno, Aliphatic wood glue where sanding required and where strength and waterproof glue is required I've used EpiGlue two pot Marine glue. The planking is used because of the many difficult shapes and curves of the hull construction. Once the sanding and shaping of the hull is completed the hull will be sheathed with a fibreglass cloth skin and resin then sanded smooth and spray painted replicating the steel hull of this vessel. Cheers, Kevin
[Score: 8/10] 49"/5000g HMS Belfast Twin Propellors (3 Blade 30mm) Direct Drive to a Speed 540 x 2 (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (6v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Navy VR30 or Viper Marine. Trials on 40MHz then 2.4GHz DX6 ESC - Comments: Performance not yet known, still in the fitting out dock. Power is actually 2 x 6V 3Ah. ESC will probably be Graupner Navy V30R or Viper. Maybe 2 for differential control to support rudder. Long term plans for smoke (borrowed from model railway kit!) lighting and gun control. Have already bought magicians 'Flash Paper' for main battery gun flashes. Ignition using old 'out of work' glow-plugs? Any ideas welcome :-) Ship is Graupner Premium line. NOT IMPRESSED with quality of cast resin parts, lots of air bubble depressions :-/ Fair amount of rework / repaint necessary!
Hi Steve It would be possible to make a silicon mould and cast with Fast Cast resin. Quite a lot of work for just two parts, and making the mould to allow the air to escape would not be easy. You could make the parts from some plastic rod fettled to shape with the blades from Litho plate cut to size and super-glued in place. Having originals to copy should enable fair replicas to be fashioned and as they are static and part hidden in a tube round the props I believe it is do-able. Good luck Dave
I have never cast resin but am currently casting lead. You need to ensure that you can extract the final product and that you can get the air out of the mould while you are casting. I suggest you look at something like Google or uTube. Alternatively someone on this site may be able to advice you. Whatever you do, please let me know how you get on!
Hi good news, I have just checked the area of damage around the shaft exit, on further investigation there is no delamination👍 i think I will re stick the ply sheet down then stregthen the area with modeling tissue and resin. i am fotunate that the wood strips that run from the bow to the stern (i think they give the model grip and straight line stability,help i do not know the correct term), give a natural line to patch upto.i will stengthen the interior with wood strips again resind in.
Steve, I have in the past painted my chains, using acrylic paint. I watered down the paint, very thin verscosity. I then dipped the cain just for a few minutes then pulled it out and left it to dry It did work but I also left 2 meters length of brass chain in sea water and it did oxidize nicely. I guess it all depends on your choise. I've used both techniques, with success mind you. As for my tug I've almost completed it, I'm waiting on some glue. I ordered from CMB, I should be recieving it in the post by friday. Then I'll be able to glue together my superstructure. And finish that boat. I'm also working on my Box Barge. which is completed but not sealed or resined yet. As for the Pilot Boat it's in the works, Just have to clear it with the wife of course! I really admire yours as you did a great job on it. I show it to the wife a bunch of time, giving her hints that the next project I want....👍 PS. I tried seeing the video but, didn't see which one it was. I have seen the night time video you made awhile back.
I would recommend you follow Mark's very sound advice. I built a Billings Mercantic (plank on frame with Cascamite) many years ago. Over time the planks split either side of the glue line. I had also followed the instructions but now cover all my wooden hulls as suggested. So much easier to do when building than several years later with all the paint removal and replacement of rotted wood. Good luck with the boat Dave
Hi Mate, welcome to the forum, First of all there is no such thing as newby question, only what you dont know or are uncertain. I would always resin cover the hull, added strength etc, less chance of dings. But, glass cloth or borrow the wifes tights!!! all good for the hull, Resin I have used polyester resin in the past but i now use epoxy layup resin, comes with different time hardeners, or the resin from delux, cant remember the name is water based, (very little smell) I would also pore resin inside the hull as a sealant (between bulkheads and roll the hull around to spread the resin over your planking, also great as you mention its a steam tug so oil etc wont affect the hull. Finish is down to detail sanding and filling, if its smooth to start with it will be far easier to get a smooth finish. Hope this has given you some guidance, shout again if you need more. PS. If your looking for a club, have a look at Etherow MBC we are in Romiley, just out of Stockport Regards Mark