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>> Home > Tags > resin

aliphatic resin glue
epoxy resin
Fascis Board and Molding! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
The engine room floor is in place. using Resin it's not going any where! It's ok I'll make do! I believe that Dumas used the motor mount floor design from their fiberglass hull. So it fits very high in the plastic hull design! No worries it will work! It better!!!!!!😡😊

more progress. by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
First job today was to reduce the rudders by 1cmx1cm which I think not only looks better but should reduce the affects that have been mentioned in comments below. Ive fitted the cockpit which I assembled yesterday. Its not the best fit into the deck, however, I shall blend it all in with some balsa strip, sand, filler, sanding sealer hopefully for a seamless finish. I have pictured the 2 x Hobbyking waterproof boat 30 amp esc. These are supposed to be water cooled, however I am not going to fit the tubing and start drilling water pickup and exit holes in the hull x 4 until I think that water cooling is going to be necessary. Once I have watt meter readings for 2S and 3S lipo, it will give me an idea what the ESC are going to be like. Of course if you guys think I need to go water cooling, please let me know! I have an Mtroniks W-tail mixer that will allow the motors to be synched to the rudders allowing the inboard motor to slow or stop when turning. Never used one before, so may need to some programming once hooked up, we shall see. Last job today was to shoot a could of coats of red oxide primer on the lower hull to see what the resin finish was like. on the whole not a bad finish at all, just a could of tiny areas that need a little sanding for a faily blemish free finish.

Devil in the detail! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Today has seen the prop shafts and motors installed, all nice and straight and bind free. Once all That was epoxied in and set, I made a pair of prop shaft struts from plasticard and tubing, not that it provides a huge amount of support but adds to the scale appearance. I also fashioned some approx scale sized rudders using standard off the shelf rudders, removing the blades and making new blades with 0.8mm brass sheet, pinned and soldered and painted in oxide red primer. Last job of the day was to start building the cockpit floor and to give the hull another coat of resin.

Clothing complete, fenders on! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
So, managed to get all the glass clothing done at work at the weekend! So far, 1 coat of resin followed by 2 thinned coats to come. Today has seen all the fenders/rubbing strakes added. It took some careful measuring to get positioned correctly but well pleased with the outcome. It paid to pre-shape them prior to fitting. I’ve added filler where needed and a couple of coats of sealer, all seems to be faired in nicely. May need some touch up after priming. Also fitted the rudder mounts as today’s final job. Tomorrow should see the prop shafts fitted, motors mounted and will make the shaft struts. Postie arrived with some RNLI resin crew figures that will add a great touch when painted.

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Hi MB, Sorry for late response, I've been occupied with varnishing and painting of my Sea Scout renovation. The Turnigy i6 and Flysky FS-6 are hardware identical but have slightly different software, not critical I understand. I have the German branded version of the Turnigy i6, called here HT-6. Attached is the excellent German / English User / Programming manual without the Chenglish gobbledygook! Flysky Chenglish manual also attached for comparison. Only mistake I found in the manual is re Binding (see pic); they mention Binding button on the RX when it is on the TX at bottom left Item 13 in the attached pic of my German branded Reely version. BTW; iA6 is the RX type number. The TX is TGY-I6 or FS-6 for Flysky. Pics 4 & 5 show my Reely HT-6 and Turnigy TGY-I6 versions. Identical except for labelling, same goes for the Flysky - see manual. Re: Servos: I have tested my TX and an iA-6 RX with all sorts of servos; Sanwa, Futaba, Hitec amongst others some going back 30 years and they all work fine. I currently have an iA-6 RX and ancient Hitec standard rudder servo in my Sea Scout and it works just fine. Re: controlling the ESC; it just plugs into the RX like a servo. Usually channel 1 or 3 depending on whether you want throttle on the right or left stick respectively. Re: 3D printed stuff 'brittle or not'; depends on what type of filament they use for the print so can't really say. Up to now have not had problems. What I have noticed with some 3D plastic and resin items is surface defects, pits etc, which need some treatment before fitting. Resin also tends to be more brittle than 3D plastic prints. Resin don't bend well and don't like knocks! As I discovered with the resin gun barrels on my Graf Spee 😡 Will be replaced shortly with turned brass or Alu! Re: LiPos; attached is a file from Model Boats mag of Hints and Tips for using LiPos. It also explains the tech jargon surrounding brushless motors, i.e. interpreting model numbers and parameters😉 All for now, cheers Doug 😎

Don’t tell the wife! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Why so many coats of resin, I’m hoping 3 will be enough like when I cover model aircraft?

Don’t tell the wife! by Bobatsea Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 11 days ago
Nice work! You're slowly catching up with me. I've been busy sanding coat number 7 of resin. I also deviated from the plans and opened up access to undet the fore deck

Fire boat by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi Kevin. Welcome to the forum. A resin fittings kit for the 1:16 (34.5 inch) fireboat is available from SLEC: They are made from styrene and are consequently won't add too much additional weight. There is also a white metal fitting kit available from Model Slipway: This set looks more comprehensive and will add a bit more weight but will be much sturdier. Not forgetting the range of 1:16 fittings available from the 'Model Shop' on this site.👍 I hope that's helpful. Robbob.

Bulwark capping by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
So, here we go again. Bulwark capping, I didn't have a piece of teak wide enough to cut these out off, so two strips of teak were cut to the relevant size on the band saw and sanded. A large piece of plywood was laid on the top of the hull, the hull outline was drawn onto the plywood, blocks of wood were secured to the plywood to hold the strips of teak in place but exaggerating the curve. [To allow for spring back] The teak was soaked overnight, the next day it was soaked in boiling water a few times, whilst still hot and wet it was placed in the blocks to dry. I had to alter the blocks once to gain a bit more curve. After the strips were properly dried, the top and sides of the strips were given two coats of finishing resin and left to dry, then the underside was coated with super glue and left the dry. Then the tricky bit, wearing my best glasses I applied with the aid of a tooth pick super glue to the tops and bulwark supports and fitted the capping's. The piece around the stern was cut out of one piece and looks alright.

Agenora by Gascoigne Captain   Posted: 20 days ago
A scratch built model of a working wherry the skipper/owner was the great grandfather of a near neighbour. Used to work the rivers Wensum and Yare here in Norfolk. Model hull clinker built. In balsa with resin inside and out. Sails really well with a detachable keel. One of four model wherries built.

Planking done and other stuff’ by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
So, after a weekend away with “she who must be obeyed” have managed to do some more over the last couple of days before nights tonight. Planking is now completed, just needs external shaping, sanding and filler before glass clothing. Have cut holes and added all the fixing points for the prop shafts and made the motor mount. All square and inline. Prop shafts won’t be fitted properly until I’ve clothed the outside. Stuffing boxes will be epoxy and isopon P38 fixed inside the little boxes I’ve made where they exit the hull for added strength. Last job today was to give the inside of the hull a good dose of resin to seal it all up.

brede lifeboat inner wheel by jtdavid Lieutenant   Posted: 22 days ago
[Score: 10/10] 16" brede lifeboat inner wheel Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 30mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 25mm) Direct Drive Powered by NiMH (6v) Batteries Controlled Through mtronics ESC - Comments: built all from cardboard, copper wire for railings, and plasticard. the plan I drew my self so semi scale. all coated in resin then painted . I have sailed this regular and had no issues with it sail brilliant. just putting 2.4 ghz into it

Decks by AlanP Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Templates were made out of cardboard, good job that I like Weetabix, a bit of messing about but eventually I got a good fit, these were transferred onto the 3mm ply for the deck. Before fitting the deck the ply was given a couple of coats of Z-Poxy finishing resin rubbing down in-between coats, this filled in the grain ready for painting and also made it waterproof. After the glue had dried the deck and bulwark were given a coat of primere, then two coats of the finishing colour. After a week of the paint left to harden the coamings (if that's the right spelling) were glued in place.

Planking almost very nearly finished! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Finished nights this morning, had a couple of hours kip then thrashed some more planking! Stern end finished, main hull finished, just the bow uppers to put in. Once completed, will get some pva squeegee’d into the inside joints between planks and formers then will give the inside a couple of coats of resin. Once that’s done, rough sand the hull and fill the remaining gaps and blemishes with wood filler before final sanding and touch filling prior to glass clothing. Before I glass cloth, shall install prop shafts, motor mounts, motors, install decks then onwards with clothing.

Stern Seam! by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
It's looking good so far. Please excuse my ignorance, but what is bondo. I usually use p38 filler or polyester resin for such jobs, is this the same. Keep seeing bondo mentioned so just had to ask, I'm only a beginner of fifty plus years of modeling. I'll get there one day.