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>> Home > Tags > resin

resin
aliphatic resin glue
epoxy resin
resin
Spektrum, new, useless... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
I agree Haverlock, One definitely, potentially, possible final thought😁 Martin; Did you pull the bind plug out BEFORE you switched off the RX? If the green light at the RH end of the LEDs on the TX was lit it MIGHT mean the RX was bound OK. Can happen so quick you may not have noticed! Esp. if the better half popped her head round the door to offer another cuppa at the vital moment😉 JFF stick a servo in the RX and try it. You may get a pleasant surprise. If you don't - nothing lost. If you do - have fun with it. Good luck. Doug 😎 PS Re PTB; when I started I thought it would just be a Cosmetic job; clean up flat back and respray in Pacific green camouflage. Ho ho ho! After I got started I found some curiosities in the construction and that the prop tubes and rudder stocks were misaligned. Never mind the ESC that burst into flames when I tried an 'as bought' test. So from then on it was clear that I had a full rebuild / reno. on my hands. "Hey ho hey ho it's off to work we go"!😉 All old paint now off, chine rails repaired / replaced and first coats of resin and tissue strengthening applied. Might get to the priming tomorrow or Sunday.

Warped wood by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
"Then this 54 year old baby will be good for another 54." Same with my Sea Scout. Question is - will we!? 🤔😁 Sounds like your Grandad and mine would have got on very well. Mine was also a Master Carpenter and Cabinet Maker. Made a lot of church furniture, amongst a lot of other beautiful things. Used to like his workshop, lots of smelly glue pots 😆 Don't get the(e)Pox 😁 Have fun, Doug 😎 Will shortly be reinforcing my PTB with polyester resin inside and out. No mixing, no pong and brushes wash out in hot water😊 PS: JFF I just dug out my Spektrum DX6 and a brand new AR610 RX. Stuck in the Bind plug, stuck in the battery (via a little switch harness). Pushed the Bind switch on the TX (the DX6 has a Bind push button on the top instead of a Trainer switch). Lights flashed on the TX and a nice ladylike voice told me "Binding" .... "Binding successful". Wonders of modern science 😁 Five minutes and all done. Pulled out the bind plug, switched off RX and TX. Plugged a couple of servos into the throttle and rudder slots of the RX. Switched on TX then RX, twiddled the sticks and Lo and behold! Servos buzzed and moved 😊 Walk in the park 😉 There's hope for my Spektrum yet. Good luck with yours. Cheers, Doug 😎

Fibreglass the hull- continued by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Now the Chine rubbing strakes are fitted, dry and filled and I have attended to the minor lumps and bumps the next job is to give another coat of resin, taking the issues of the first application into account I intend to apply a thin coat, this has the effect of filling in the pattern of the glass cloth. Another two days have passed and it’s time to do some rubbing down. I have found that the surface is very hard, more so than I recall some of the other fibre glass projects I have done but these have been using Polyester resin. It’s a first for epoxy, so is epoxy a better choice than Polyester? According to my mini research –  Epoxy is more versatile  Epoxy has fewer fumes  Epoxy is stronger  Epoxy shrinks less Conclusion Epoxy is the better choice for repairing/covering either wooden hulls or repairing fiberglass boats. It has excellent adhesive qualities, wets out fiberglass fabrics and it is tough. It has great thin film cure characteristics, cures in cool temperatures. After the first coat I wasn’t 100 % happy with the finish but I just thought that some dust had landed on the surface before the resin had dried, (this was proved not to be dust but because of the matting pattern still been visible it disguised the real problem) however this was easily sanded out with wet & dry. Now the hull and deck were looking really smooth with very little sign of the matting pattern it was time to give a final coat. I had decided to coat both the deck and the hull in one go so I mixed enough resin to do the lot. Starting with the deck I started to apply the resin but to may horror it started to pin prick all over the deck surface, panic, panic what was causing this? So was it the brush which I had previously washed out with cellulose thinners after applying the last batch of resin. I decided to remove the resin and use a new brush (I had 90 mins cure time to do this) so cleaning of with paper towel and finally with a wipe with thinners I started to apply resin again – but it happened again as I sat in despair I looked into the pot of resin wondering where to go next when I saw a film on the top of the remaining resin It was then I noticed a ridge in the cups side. It was the wax coating that had melted into the resin and subsequently appeared as pin pricks in the newly applied surface. At this realisation I removed all the resin again and took a breather hoping I had found the problem. Another day and a light rub down of the deck to make sure the surface is ready to receive its final coat. Resin weighed (in a glass container this time) and well mixed I started to apply again and fortunately it was OK and all surfaces were coated.

Warped wood by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Yep, that's what I still call it as well. Got mine from Conrad, where else?😉 The bridge ain't really a 'chip', it's just 4 diodes encapsulated in a plastic or resin block Martin: I think we should start a new thread on this stuff! Since we've inadvertently hijacked Bryan's thread 😲 Sorry Bryan🤔

Dumas Chris Craft engine by fotoguy Apprentice   Posted: 6 days ago
I have a question about the Dumas 1940 Chris Craft barrel back kit. I have decided that I want to build this as a static model. So I thought it be great to include an engine (model). I would like to use the Hercules engine(s). I have found pictures of the engine and the engine service manual (that has all dimensions), to think about fabricating an engine from scratch. Some thing I have never done an looks differcult. I have also found a couple of 1/8 scale V8 engines ( there is a guy who sells a Pontiac V8 in 1/8 scale resin and there is a 1965 Corvette kit with a 327 V8. I understand that some Chris Craft boats came with small block Chevy engines (283? or 327?). I am also thinking of just installing a highly modified small block engine - you know with chrome heads, velocity stacks, etc. One thing that I found, is that there appears to be NO pictures of a Dumas Chris Craft models with a model engine installed on the net! So I finally get to question, does anyone know if a model Hercules engine exists, has anyone attempted build/install an engine in their model, know someone who did, have any insights or comments or help (or unhelpful) tips. I have also found I6 diesel (from a tank) in 1/8 scale that looks some what like the Hercules engines, but I don't like the idea of putting any old engine to simulate the Hercules. So any help or comments are welcome.

Wherry hull in GRP by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi mastman, I saw your comment that you wrote, I have copied and pasted it below. ******************************************** Your right about the madhouse cant see how people can run things down on here without seeing the actual goods any way thats another matter. ********************************************* I did write about the shape of the wherry hull was wrong. I am not into sailing boats, am more into MTB's and I power boat hulls. I know I hadn't seen the actual hull in the flesh so to speak. All I saw was the picture that had been posted for the Wherry hull that was for sale. I had just come home from Norfolk and just seen a Wherry moored in Potter Heigham. I commented that the shape was wrong because of the way the bow of the hull swept up so high. I have posted the picture I saw from which I commented on. I am sorry if I did offend you but it was just that I din't see the shape as being correct. Once again I am sorry to have offended you. I also said about other parts being made on a 3D printer. Onc e again I did think that resin ones I have seen on ebay were of a better finish quality than the 3D printed ones. It seems that I have put a cat amongst the pigeons with my remarks. I am sorry to have offended you. Regards BOATSHED.

HMS ZULU by PETER-SMITH Seaman   Posted: 14 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 48"/19300g HMS ZULU Capable of 4mph and a runtime of 30mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive Powered by NiCad (7.2v) Batteries - Comments: A good boat made from a full kit. Well detail in resin

Wherry hull in GRP by BOATSHED Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Many of those parts look like they have been made on a 3D printer and not very professional. Not like parts that are made from resin and nicely finished. Some pictures are very badly focused and blurred.

Glassing the deck by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Since I had been finishing the Gunwhale rubbing strakes and had the boat right side up and I was going on holiday for a few days I decide to glass the deck this would give the deck time to set. So some fine filling and then cut the matting to shape. Again I put a light coat of resin onto the deck then allowed the matting to sink into the resin, a minimal amount of brushing is required and then its left to harden overnight. The resin is now sufficiently hardened after two days so before I go away I can apply another light coat of resin which fills the matting pattern very easily - a week away now will allow the resin to harden fully.

Macedonian by Jerry Todd Captain   Posted: 28 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 86" Macedonian Powered by Lead Acid (6v) 7Amp/h Batteries - Comments: Macedonian was a Lively class 38 gun frigate of the Royal Navy built in 1810. She fought and was captured by the American frigate United States in October of 1812, and taken into the US Navy where she served until 1829. This model is 1:36 (1"= 3'), built of white pine over 3/8" CDX plywood forms, covered with one layer of 4oz glass cloth outside and coated with poly resin inside. It will depict the ship as she was in 1812, before being re-rigged to American standards. Estimated specs: Beam: 13-1/2" Length of the hull: 59" Length over the rig: 85-3/4" Width over the rig: 36" ~ Main yard w/o stuns'l booms. Length on deck: 55" Draft: 6.7" w/o ballast keel, 10.2" w/ballast keel. Height bottom of keel to main truck, without ballast keel: 60.8", with ballast keel: 64.3"

getting a bit slow?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Sorry, I didn't realise there had been any follow up to this. (May I suggest a "View New Posts" button? Or am I missing something) I think my remarks a year ago were perfectly valid, now you remind me of them. I thought I'd been offensive or something. I see no cause for offense there. Teejay, you, too, have misunderstood my post. I was saying why I had left model railways, a hobby of a lifetime so far. THAT alone was the area of kit snobbery. Not here, or in model aircraft forums, which are nearly all kit based, yet I am a happy member of Large Scale Planes and Britmodeller. Mainly because two old friends tend to communicate with me that way. Doug, I have a 1/48th scale Mk1 Airfix Spitfire which I have turned into the First Flight in zinc chromate and polished metal, because I don't do military (liveries, at least) and have made a scratchbuilt photographer and his plate camera for the set-piece. It all sits on a bit of died lint grass. Then I have a 1/48th scale Airfix English Electric Lightning as it's a superb kit and impressive in that scale. I got it cheap off ebay. I also bought an Italian resin kit of a Houchin start-up compressor to go with it, which was amazing value and have made a tarmac set-piece ready for displaying that lot on. It was purely to save time getting something I just fancied doing. It's the foil covering on the Lightning I fancied doing. No snobbery there and when others buy loads of aftermarket stuff to add to it, none there either. And they usually make it all fit themselves. They don't pay someone else to do it. If injury or health demands it, that's a very different kettle of fish, but those sort of people rarely, if ever,brag. So, once and for all, nothing I said this time had any reference to this forum or this hobby. What I said a year ago I meant, but perhaps it was a bad day. I always read what I type as my hard, dry old fingertips slip around the keyboard and I wouldn't understand my own typing if I didn't check it. Doug has indeed helped others and me too. But so, I think, have I. Indeed that has always been my intention after a lifetime in modelmaking. Cheers, Martin

Sea Commander restoration tips by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Get yourself a small pack of epoxy resin from ebay and seek out all slight delaminations of the plywood frames. Get the epoxy in those split bits and clamp them up. A clothes peg is sufficient if you're short of space. You can put a piece of cling film twixt peg and wood so the peg doesn't stick. Then use the rest of the epoxy to waterproof the insides. Be thorough and methodical. If you sand the model back to wood, use epoxy on that, either through fine model aircraft fibreglass cloth or just squeegee epoxy on all over with an old credit card. It goes much further and gets forced into the grain. It's not necessary to use GRP cloth on everything if it's well built. I have several over-50 year old model boats that are perfectly water tight with decent paint jobs (enamel, of course). Cheers, Martin

Fibreglass the hull by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I purchased as recommended by Robbob the fibreglass package which consisted of 750g of epoxy resin and 250g of hardener, I also went for the 90min cure as this is the first time I have ever done a boat hull, I’ve done plenty of stranded fibre cowlings/air intakes etc. where you lay a gel coat first then stranded matting which is so different to laying a fine matt on its own. I also ordered some mixing sticks and throw away brushes. First I cut the matting to the slightly oversize for one of the side skins, then loosely taped the matt to the bottom skin and checked the coverage - and checked again then fold over to the opposite side, this then leaves the surface clear to apply the resin. Mixing the resin should be done accurately, so borrow the kitchen scales and here we go. I wasn’t sure how much to mix for a side skin but 25g of resin and 7.5g of hardener looks about right. So mix well and then brush onto the side skin, then I gently lifted over the matting and laid it on the skin and gently brushed the matting down, the matting is almost sucked onto the resin so minimal brushing is required to ensure a smooth surface A previous blog said that “Less is More” how true this is, the temptation to spread the remainder of the resin on to the already adhered matt is something to be avoided, however learn by my mistake as I did just that (only in a small area on one skin) leaving rather a lot of sanding later after the resin had fully cured as it leaves a rather lumpy surface. So onward and upwards the following three surfaces were relatively easy with only minor difficulty keeping the matting in close to the 90 degree angle between the keel and skin and I had to keep going back to it pressing it in with a steel rule until the resin started to go off but minimal resin left a surface that was flat and the weave of the glass matt can be clearly seen and felt but minimal sanding is required if at all. Then a further 2 coats of resin with sanding in between will leave a smooth surface ready for final preparation of painting. The final picture is of the roof that in a previous page I said to add strength the roof would need a coat of glass to reinforce the unsupported edges – To be continued

Clyde puffer by marky Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Thanks Doug ,still a lot to do before the resin stage may go for the glass tissue as i found they use it in the mould making workshop for reinforcement and theres always plenty offcuts .Cheers Marky

Clyde puffer by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Eveni' Marky, Re Tights! What's handy will surely depend on the Missus or ..? 😉 Frankly I would dispense with the tights altogether (the Missus may of course have a different opinion😁), more trouble than they are worth and don't contribute much or anything to the construction if the basis was soundly built. It only costs you more resin to fill in the mesh of the tights. If you must use tights then the higher the denier the better (at least 40 - 50) anything less will have a very open mesh and contribute virtually nothing to the hull strength, the Missus will explain denier to you This seems to me to be a 'hangover' from 50s style construction when glass fibre was more expensive relatively speaking. I tried it back then with a scratch built Sopwith Camel fuselage and it was a total disaster. Instead planking with 1/32 balsa and a thin resin coat worked a treat. Nowadays, 30 years or more, I use glass fibre tissue instead; density and therefore strength imparted to the hull is more even cos it don't stretch like tights! Whatever, have fun, and greetings to the Better Half (tights donator!) Cheers Doug 😎 PS: if you feel you need tights😲 (or FG tissue) fit the rubbing strakes after this, and after sanding the tights / tissue to shape. Otherwise the strakes will just get in the way and be a nuisance to sanding and will get damaged / deformed. PPS: shame about the amber nectar, my commiserations 🤔 My current tipple is more tawny port colour; a rather nice Lagavulin 😜