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>> Home > Tags > resin

aliphatic resin glue
epoxy resin
Deck furniture by rolfman2000 Commander   Posted: 10 days ago
If you go to battlecrafts shop on eBay, or battlecrafts own website. All the deck furniture and weaponry are available in resin casting or resin an metal castings from them. Both in 1/32 & 1/24th scale. I have made some and bought some from battlecrafts. I have found them very helpful and also very fast delivery. Hope that helps. Best wishes, Dave W

Sea Queen refurbishment by onetenor Commander   Posted: 16 days ago
Just a few quickies. first of all did the drill bit hit the bone? If so it needs an x -ray as there could be bone splinters that will cause pain even after the hole has healed. Re coating boat hulls try 2 part Epoxy paint / resins which can be used with cloth like polyester resin. RN I believe Acetone and various other solvents are available in quantity off the supermarket shelf in France👍. Do you get over the border at all? Not sure but I think the OP that said this mentioned ether too.

Stabilit Express by Midlife306 Admiral   Posted: 18 days ago
I think those doublers will need explosives to get them off... I've hit a bit of a roadblock with the big K7, I need to get Donald built up so I can position the steering wheel & dash correctly, the animatronic resin upper torso & arms I bought came with no instructions or info on what servos to use. I got some micro servos & they didn't fit, Dremel out & all fits now but I'm now struggling with connecting the servo arm to the rotating neck. I'll suss it out eventually but I need a rest. I've been doing bits on my 1/12 scale K7 in the background, if all goes well it should be ready for paint in a couple of weeks. As normal I've been waiting for parts to arrive from China, the brushless motor & esc arrived today for the blue rigger, I can make a start on that soon.. I've just finished printing the parts for the cabin for a Springer tug hull I got from Sonar & I've just started printing the first parts of a WW2 landing craft, its 1/16 scale nearly a metre long, I guess I'll be making a tank for it when it's completed. Then there's the Robbe Diabolo, on the instructions it says to use self tapping screws to hold the plastic dual rudders in place. No good to me as I've upgraded to dual aluminium rudders, these buggers need bolts! Trouble is the waterproof electronics box is used as a doubler for the central transom, when it's glued into place there isn't any room to access where the rudder bolts come through the doublers, ohhh the joy of problem solving.... So I'm keeping busy but my butter is spread a bit too thin. Cheers Wayne

Stabilit Express by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Hi Wayne You must be a rich man if you are mixing that much. Unlike other resins Stabilit attaches its-self into the surfaces being joined so any round the edges is un-necessary and should be wiped away with a wet rag. Once fully set it can be machines or Dremeled away. Doug is so right about a correctly made joint and I do hope you never ever need to remove the doublers. Dave

Sea Queen refurbishment by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi Canabus I agree but I retired for the second time in 2009 and have no wish to return to employment. I do scratch build so make lots of fittings. My purpose in buying the 3D printer was to speed up the production of masters that I could take a mould off to then produce in fast cast resin. Used this on the Olympic and Titanic and have the hull for the Mauretania at 1:96 so plenty of fittings required there. I also have fittings for the KD Perkassa so am not restricted to any scale. This is the real benefit of CAD design as you can quickly rescale to anything (within reason) and the SD printer will produce the masters. 3D copiers are still a bit in the development stage for hobbyists and I am waiting for the cost to become more reasonable. I have seen a demo but its only good for figures in 1:12 scale with an affordable 3d printer. You could use a professional print service but its dear and rather defeats the object of designing and printing at home. Stephen does produce a range of fittings in the site model shop so they are available. Dave

SG&K 1920 Gentlemans Runabout Mk2 by canabus Commander   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi All The stern is finally covered in with the help of my magnet handle clamps. Fibreglass resin, filled and sanded. Spray putty/primer undercoated. Canabus

Sea Queen refurbishment by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi Colin Good to hear your PC is fixed and the Sea Queen is well on the way to final restoration. I look forward to seeing some on water pics in due course. Chris Most wood contains resin of some sort so it could interfere with the resin we apply. Unless you are intending to go surfing with your model I doubt it will suffer quite like a surfboard!😁 Used sparingly on a clean surface it will both protect and harden the surface. I suppose my early modelling when building and painting model planes has made me so keen to keep the weight light. Some of my early efforts looked truly realistic and flew like a brick Happy days dave

Sea Queen refurbishment by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Interesting! 😲 I already decided to go a different route. I'll save the resins for major construction work. Ciao Doug 😎

Sea Queen refurbishment by octman Commander   Posted: 20 days ago
Back to the polyester! I have just read an item about coating wood with polyester, quoting an apparently well known Australian surf board maker, saying that there are chemicals in the wood that prevent the soaked in resin from setting. It sets on the surface and all appears well, but not deep down and it may all become detached some time in the future. Too late for me though as I have just done mine! Chris

Sea Queen refurbishment by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Dave, Ta 👍 After thinking back to the fun (and pong!) of laminating my destroyer hull I came to similar conclusions 😉 Won't have to mess about with acetone either, not so easy to buy in quantity here. Little bottles of nail varnish remover are expensive 🤔 I don't need to add strength. Just want to clean up and seal the old girl prior to painting the inside with Hammerite and subsequently fitting the new brushless and electronics. Got curious after reading all that about sealing with resin! Cheers Doug 😎

Sea Queen refurbishment by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Doug Resin is heavy and applying by coating the inside of a boat will if the wood is porous absorb lots and greatly increase the weight. The thinner it is the more it will be absorbed. Layup resin is of a similar consistency to liquid brushing paint (not the gel type). It goes more pourable as the temperature increases. It is much thinner than the Isopon resin sold in many car repair packs. Adding styrene will thin the mixture allowing it to penetrate the glass cloth or matting. It is worked well into the mat to keep the weight to a minimum and any excess is mopped up with paper towels. After several coats the fibreglass will be formed and dries rock hard over a couple of days if the correct temperature is maintained. High temps will reduce the time but will be more difficult to work with as the gel stage will happen much quicker. Sorry to rabbit on a bit but I am trying to warn you that you may end up with a very heavy model if you do not use sparingly. If you can get the consistency similar to yacht varnish you can, like me, paint inside the boat including the underside of the deck. Paint out any runs and remove any excess with paper towels. You really only need a very thin coating. If you need to add strength then use some cloth or matting and work the resin well in and mop off any excess with paper towels. If you want to use your brushes and mixing pots again Acetone is the best cleaner but do keep it away from the resin. Both your alternatives would work just as well. It must be Summertime as we keep having rain showers! Cheers Dave

Sea Queen refurbishment by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi All Polyester resin uses Styrene as the solvent. Over time this evaporates and the resin becomes too thick to use for layup of fibreglass. Adding more styrene will restore the resin to its correct fluid layup state. If you use large quantities stored in large cans this is a real lifesaver. Smaller cans do not suffer quite the same as they are usually quickly used. Hope this helps your understanding of Polyester resin. Cheers Dave

Sea Queen refurbishment by colinhubbard Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Doug and Chris, Well good question ? So I rang the local fiber glass moulders to see what they had supplied me, as no label on the jar. It is styrene, and I was told to add 10 parts resin to 1 part styrene. And add Hardner/activator as normal before use or spray activator over the coated area, that is the way I did it, and it works. I think it took about 1 hour to be touch dry, but I left overnight before recoating. Apparently this mix is sprayable using a high pressure low volume spraygun. ONLY USE ACETONE TO REMOVE RESINS AND CLEAN TOOLS AND BRUSHES, DO NOT THIN WITH ACETONE. Best of luck Colin.

Sea Queen refurbishment by octman Commander   Posted: 22 days ago
Hello Colin, regarding your use of polyester resin inside the hull, did you use the standard mix and consistency or did you thin it,if so, what did you thin it with? Was is like water, or more "gloopy"? I have my supply of polyester ready to go but do not want to make a mess of it. Chris

Stabilit Express by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Hi Wayne This was always the best way to glue the Robbe range of fuselages when I used to build and fly model planes. It is specially formulated for the type of plastic used by Robbe and others. Used correctly it is hard to fault. It has a unique smell not dissimilar to some of the stuff my dentist uses when filling my cavities! The good news is an equivalent is available from The Model Shop Leeds Cost is less than a tenner and it is as good as the Stabilit Express. It's a solvent type glue and gives the strongest joints. This is a tube of resin plus a small tub of powder but check as there are similar UHU products with two tubes which may not be the same. For the strongest joints it's hard to beat and I never had a failed joint in all my years of flying. Hope this helps Dave