Still a reasonable buy for £50. I look forward to following your restoration. There are clearly many challenges ahead and it will be interesting to see how you proceed. As you have built one before you will possibly remember how it went together, which is always a great help in any restoration. Good luck
The Upol Barcote product recommended is intended for Industrial use mainly in car restoration. The spec sheet can be seen at http://www.u-pol.com/files/6689/up0720-SDS-EN. If you are intending to use this Full PPE equipment should be worn and only use in a well ventilated area. Personally I use paintstrippers, scapers and a hot air paint stripper to clean wooden hulls back to bare wood. This allows me to see any damage caused by fuels used with IC engines. I agree its messy, takes time and is best done outside, but you do end up with a solid hull with no hidden soft spots. I agree with Jarvo's use of Clear Cote either in gloss or semi matt finish. If the air temp is much below 20 deg most rattle cans will not give a good finish and runs will be difficult to avoid.
Hi Crew! I could do with some help with fuse ratings for my MTB restoration. It was built in the mid-50's for i.c. power and has not seen its bottom wet since 1962. Needless to say, it now has a couple of brushless motors plus a lipo pack , ESC's and a sound system. I am about to put the fusing in but am concerned about the initial start point for the fuse capacity. I do not mind burning fuses to achieve the level required but where would be a good starting point? This is by far the most potent power train I have experienced and I do not want to torch a family heirloom.... The setup is as follows: Motors - 2 x EnErG 600D/R 1550 ( C35-14) pulling about 42 amps max. ESC's - 2 x Hawk BL 50A on 2 x lipo cells BEC employed Over to you Wunwinglo
Also, at the boot sale, I picked up this Billings model from the 1960s for £7. Again requiring considerable restoration but she has beautiful lines and is fundamentally solid. I have emailed Billings for any plans, drawings and instructions but based on my previous experience I am not holding my breath. So if any one has pictures, plans, instructions which might help I would be happy to purchase them.
It was worth venturing down to the Boot Sale this morning as I found this Amsterdam Tug with fittings for £20. It is an Artesania Latina model and needs considerable restoration. If anyone has plans or build instructions which might help, I would be happy to purchase them.
Heartily agree on all points Chris👍 I am faced with the same decision with the restoration of my Sea Scout. On the basis of 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' I decided to leave the shaft angle as Dad built it in the mid sixties to fit his Taycol Target. I've now fitted a brushless and made a new shaft for the original tube, repainted hull and fitted out the 'engine room'. Pics show starting point and current state. Can't wait for the weather to warm up to try her out😉 I'm aiming for a trim at rest slightly nose up and water about 1/2 inch or so up the transom. Then trials to see if she comes easily on the plane and is stable. As usual a bit of trial and error, aka 'suck it and see' 😁 Happy Holidays and sailing all, cheers Doug 😎
Hi Mick , for some strange reason I couldn't put up a response on your harbour wattle post ,she is currently undergoing restoration at a yard in Melbourne ,Glad to see you back in the saddle and that the recovery is going strong ,loved your brass work for your wattle . Cheers Marky 👍
Yes you can. It's small so not much room to get access and the rigging needs to be removeable. I have one that I converted almost 20 years ago and it sailed OK. Should be easier to fit out now as the rc gear, ESC and batteries are available in much smaller formats. Should fit well in your small pond, I don't really have anywhere safe to sail mine, hence the disrepaiur. I am attaching some photos of its present condition. Needs some restoration but hopefully shows what is possible. I used a small maxxon motor and a large brass prop over scale but it worked. The acess is via the removable cabin and the battery fits in a tray towards the front. The rx and esc fitted above the rudder servo. Have fun and please share your build.
We as model makers try to do the best we can with what we've got. But sometimes feeling your way round a hand build is far more rewarding. I have a number of machines available in my workshop, but as most of my models are over 50 years old it is usually restoration work that I need to do, so hand worked parts are what I need to make. My machines are usually used for making brass and other metal items. I usually paint by hand, but occasionally use a spray gun or airbrush. But find hand finishing gives the most satisfaction. Cheers Colin.
Hi smear Welcome to the site. You can find models on e-bay from time to time and there are also copies of the original plans plus templates for the formers to enable you to make from scratch. There was a recent article in one of the mags describing a restoration and I suspect it will have resulted in a high demand for the models so they may not be that easy to find. Hopefully you will find one soon. good hunting Dave