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>> Home > Tags > ribs

ribs
ribs
Clamp Chaos by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Steve, You are quite right, I intend to flip it over, build some jigs, when it's time to do the hull "planking". My methods are to experiment along the way on a Build, try different ideas along the way. Decided that I first wanted to build a very straight, rigid keel with stern and bow ribs first. That's why the build board is just a lightweight flat straight surface, I figure out how to clamp it best as I go. Your interest and comments are appreciated, it made me think more about the planking, thanks! Joe

Clamp Chaos by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Hello, It's been a slow week as I started out having some teeth pulled, put me off track so I missed getting some photos. I will get some better shots of what the keel board looks like once I get some clamps out of the way. I will photo how I do the last four ribs as well. Photos show my makeshift board with clamps everywhere. Joe

Keel by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Printed out the frames /ribs drawings and outlined each in orange so I could easily see the correct lines. Cut those out and pasted to some plywood. The plywood is Baltic Birch 1/4" -5 ply, very nice quality that I get from a local woodworking supply store. It's a bit nicer than from the local warehouse hardware lumber yard, but that would work also. Used some spray rubber cement, sprayed only the paper back and stuck on the plywood. Spraying just one surface allows quick removal of the paper once cut. I don't have a bandsaw of scroll saw, so I use a sabresaw/hand jigsaw mounted upside down on a surface that secures to my drill press. Works pretty good. My shop is so tiny that I just don't have a space for larger tools. Maybe someday. Keel board was glued up, will show more tomorrow on that. Joe

Determine Scale / Ribs / HELP with building board ideas? by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
To clarify this build, it will be a RC Sailing Boat with full functioning rudder and sails. I say this as I am using the PEARL for its design overall, but as to detailed historical details it will have some, but be simplified. Boat's Dimnsions were shown in Imperial, 21' width x 85'-6" length. The bowsprit adds about another 25% in length. To determine what scale I wanted to build in I thought most about storage, weight to lift and how to transport to the pond. I like to keep things simple, I prefer to rig it and transport while assembled, with the topsail mast dropping and the bowsprit retracted. Have done this before and it has worked well for me. Looking at potential scales and finished sizes. * 3/4" or 1/18 scale would be 16" x 64" * 1/2" or 1/24 scale equals 10.5" x 42.75" * 3/8" equals 8" x 32" I prefer a larger bout in length as it is easier to get to sail correctly, at least in my experience. Anything under 32" get tricky. I like the 64" size, but with bowsprit will be about 88" LOA. This will be a little too large for my vehicle. I decided to go with 1/2" scale as it will still be a good length hull. Ribs - I took the hull line drawings from the book, which were very small, just about an inch wide. I scanned the image and using the app "paint" on my laptop. I cropped it close around the hull rib drawing, I then enlarged it to 1/2" scale. Then I printed on standard letter sized paper, then mirrored the image cut them in two, pasted up as seen in the photos to show the completed rib sections. Next I will put together a building board / hull jig. I want to build bottom up for planking. DO any of you have any good ideas for the best one to build? I have never done this except for tiny boats. Ideas, Help would be appreciated. Joe

Arctic Privateer H441 Deep Sea Freezer Stern Trawler by steve-d Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Do you have any other photos? If you have plans giving the hull sections then you could build using ribs and plank but without them you have no idea where to start with the hull shape. If you have photos of her in dry dock or during build then you could model something from the photos using foam and plaster of paris. When you are happy with the result making a mould off of that is fairly simple and well documented on youtube etc. Does the build company (Built in at the Gdynia Shipyard, Poland for Boyd Line Ltd. 212 x 38,4 ft.) have a web site with info? Does she have a sister ship or were there a series of the same hull? Steve

Sailing Barge plans help by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hello Doug, Thank you for the quick response! I will probably take the hull lines drawing and create the ribs, etc. Cheers Joe

Maree III sharpie 10 Rater by steve-d Commander   Posted: 4 months ago
Maree III is a 10 Rater Sharpie design by A Wilcock dating back to 1958. MM plan MM/504. I first built her in 1996 but as with all these things family life got in the way or changed and I stopped taking her out. At some point I must have sold her but I can’t remember how or when. A few weeks back I decided to build something again and found the original plans under the bench so where better to start than there. I also found the MM Plans catalogue which is how I found the first date (Plan ordered 06/08/1996 pencilled in the margin). The original design does not have a bulb keel but I have decided mine will but not with the narrow carbon fin as used on the latest boat designs. She is also not for competition so I plan to include a cabin top for a more ‘scale’ appearance. Must give my thanks early on for the help I have had from David Creed who researched some old plans to find me a suitable design for the bulb keel but with a quite broad fin. As a result I have now made a plug for the bulb and a box in which to make the silicone mould. I have also cut out all the rib moulds so I can start laying up the hull. It is a monocoque design so these are just to build the hull shape. There will then only be a couple of ribs around the keel mount and mast step to add strength in those areas. Been buying materials but it is not easy as the plans have very little info on the sails and rigging.

tugboat keel by green72west Petty Officer   Posted: 6 months ago
I call them ribs!!!! what are the hull shaped [ribs] that form across the keel called. ship plan terms????. I am a novice at model making. Attempting to build tugboat the [tirrick] 1/50th scale in wood!!!!. i would appreciate an answer please. Thankyou r.s. 31/8/18.

Leaking Boat! by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Is there a clever way to find where the leak is in a hull? In this instance, boat sat static in water for eight hours and collected some water between compartment ribs in the centre two sections. One of these sections is open and 'getatable' the one next to it has had planking glued down. Leak seems not associated with either the front or back end and certainly not with drive shaft tubes. No visible signs on the outside of the hull even using magnifying glass. Depressed by the thought that may have to strip all the hull paintwork off! Any ideas? NPJ

Our boating water by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 months ago
Sun shining, boat on the water, joystick in left hand, Bierkrug or wine glass in the right hand - can't beat it 😋😁 Need a third hand for the spare ribs 😉 Pics show my 'operating corner'.

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 months ago
Whilst waiting for the ice to melt, decided to make up the deck and transom flaps. The deck was made from styrene sheet, again for lightness. Made the deck beams out of square styrene sections to avoid traditional, heavy, full width bulkheads. Hoped the stiff MTBH hull would resist twisting without bulkheads. First impressions are that this is the case and when the deck is finally bonded to the hull, should be even better.. The transom flap was made from thin aluminium plate and added simulated stiffener ribs in styrene. Understand that about a 2 degree flap down inclination works best on this model. My original plan was to operate the flap using a servo with another radio channel, however once the best plane is achieved it is unlikely the flaps will need further adjustment. Unlike the real vessel, the operating weight will remain fairly constant. So, abandoned the servo idea to use adjustable bottle-screws instead. The flap angle can still be adjusted, but not in motion. These screws are much simpler, lighter and cheaper than a servo. One challenge was to make the very small hinges required for an adjustable flap. After much thinking and investigation, decided the simplest and neatest way would be to use thin, self adhesive aluminium tape, as used on forced air heating ducts. Would stick the self adhesive surface to the underside of the flap and then onto the inside face of another thin aluminium sheet, which could then be fitted to the transom using double sided tape and small screws. This seems to work so far, it also avoids drilling through holes into the transom .

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 months ago
The bench is so well camouflaged I couldn't find the ribs at first 🤔 Watching with interest to see how you get 'clinkered' up 😉

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 months ago
I had to open my mouth yesterday didn't I 😭 this morning I took of the clamps to file of the excess glue and dropped the frame onto the floor knocking one of the ribs of 💩so I have had to re-glue the rib back on again so will be starting the blanking tomorrow now.i have included a couple of pics of the boat frame before I dropped it. 😱😱

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 months ago
ships boat continued hi all have spent today knocking up a simple jig to hold the keel and ribs of the ships boat while the glue goes off. pic 1 & 2 shows the jig set with the keel in place. pic 3 shows the dry fit test to insure all fits square and true. pic 4 is all the ribs glued to the keel. The rig is made up of pieces of ali angle which was a damaged length from when my greenhouse was delivered last year, all i have done is cut 12 pieces approx 10-15mm wide and drilled 1 hole for fixing to the board. I then marked out the board for where the ribs need to be and fixed two of the brackets for either side of the ribs and used a length of 6x2 beech long enough to be clamped to both angles which was for clamping the ribs too, 1 piece of angle was placed at the front and stern to hold the keel square to the board which is a scrap bit of OSB. Each rib was dry fitted to the keel for any fine tuning using a set square to insure square and true, once i was happy with the results i dismantled it and refitted glueing the ribs in place again double checking with the set square to check for any movement in the jig.

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 months ago
the ships boat continued today i have finished cutting out the inner of the ribs with my tungsten rod saw. these where filed and sanded with 250 grit and 2500 grit sandpaper. i have dry test fit each of the ribs to be sure of a square true fit before they will be glued. tomorrow i will be making a jig to hold the keel and ribs while the glue goes of and to keep the frame square till planked. pic 1 is of the rod saw used pic 2 is of the ribs after being filed and sanded pic 3 & 4 is of the dry test fit Ron