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>> Home > Tags > ribs

ribs
ribs
semi disaster by marky Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Came home today to what looked like a disaster but after a few well chosen words it wasn't as bad as first thought for some reason known only to the glue one side of the hull timbers had come off the ribs, the same glue was used on all the planks working from the keel up, alternating sides ,anyway a liberal application of gorilla glue at the effected area and some ratchet straps seem to have done the trick will leave the straps on for 24 hours and hope for the best.👍

TRIUMPH (CG-52301) by circle43nautical Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 52"/5700g TRIUMPH (CG-52301) Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 60mins Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON-TYPE FAN-COOLED 6-12V (5 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through DIMART 320A FAN-COOLED ESC - Comments: ON THE WAYS: BARRACUDA RC BOATS 1:12 USCG 52' TYPE F WOODEN MOTOR LIFEBOAT; NAMED "TRIUMPH" (CG-52301), IN HONOR OF THE RESCUE CRAFT LOST IN JAN 1961 DURING RESCUE ATTEMPT WITH LOSS OF ALL HANDS. THIS KIT IS ONE OF THREE IN EXISTENCE, THE OTHER TWO BEING BUILT BY A GENTLEMAN IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST (ONE FOR PERSONAL, THE OTHER FOR A MUSEUM. SHE IS MAINLY LASER CUT BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD; THE FALSE KEEL 19MM THICK, RIBS 5.5MM, DECK AND HULL & CABINS 3MM. THE HULL WILL BE COVERED AND REINFORCED WITH POLYESTER FABRIC AND MINWAX POLYURETHANE. THE DECK WILL BE COVERED BY 1/8" BASSWOOD SCRIBED SHEATHING AND THE FANTAIL SEMICIRCLE ABOVE THE STERN POST WILL BE 1/16". FINISH WITH A LIGHT MAHOGANY DECK COAMING. HANDMADE WOODEN RUDDER ON A 3/8" POST STEERED BY A SAIL WINCH SERVO & CABLE SYSTEM, RABOESCH 75MM 5-BLADE BRASS WHEEL TURNED BY A 4MM S/S SHAFT. MOST DECK FITTINGS AND HOUSINGS ARE HANDMADE WHENEVER POSSIBLE AND WOOD REMAINS NATURAL WHEN DETAIL ALLOWS IT, AS I DON'T ENJOY PAINTING OVER NATURAL GRAIN. I LOVE TO REPURPOSE THE LEFTOVER LUMBER FROM KIT TEMPLATES, LORD KNOWS I HAVE PLENTY OF IT. OH WELL, THE TEMP OUTSIDE IS GONNA DELAY ANY PAINTING, ANYWAY.

Totnes Castle 1894 by hammer Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Marky, this is only the armature for me to build the hull on as I may plank it & add ribs later as in a clinker hull. But the present intention is to make it of tin plates soldered together. I originally intended to make T.C. at 1/2"= 1ft all the way back in 2013. I made an engine & boiler for it but got involved with other things. The boiler is to big now, the engine will fit but will a boiler that fits supply enough steam for it we will see. I will often change tack, can't see plan as there isn't one. Engine can be seen running here. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7PsbzyY5hjQ And the Duke of Devonshire engine here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtMKpGHblHc

Sound System Try Out by NPJ Captain   Posted: 14 days ago
Well, back now from a wet Scottish break and with lots of little parcels to open..... Just before I left I tried to load a video and failed. My 'tutors' are going to help me with that but for now, the photos will do the job. The first image shows my temporary power setup and the layout of the components (1). Exciters sourced from ............. and the sound unit is a ............. Note the way they are wired up. I hope, when fitted properly, the cabling will run across the bottom of the Hull. The positioning was very much dictated by the space available between one set of 'ribs' (2). This seems to be just perfect. Note the position of the solder tags(3). There is little space left at the top when fitting the Deck, so keep as high as possible bearing that in mind. So I put the exciters in place, and attached my power supply (4). I could not wait to put the Deck back on before I tried, but at least I had sound of Motors and Horn and adjusted the volume control to 75% (5) Volume control being the white block with the cross head. So after I had my fun, I tidied it all up and put the deck on. Not screwed down but just to check sound levels. Did not work first time because of the lose wires, but second time was good and a great depth of sound. So that has confirmed the sound system fits and can work in that position. However, that is without motors running and that may make a difference. Next time I hope to be doing the trials of the mixer/escapes and motors, then I will see how the sound presents with motors running. All the best. NPJ

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by NPJ Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Dave M. I seem to have 'lost' your post re the transmitter type and the 'extras' for the receiver to function other features. However, re your comment on cutting ribs, did you note in one of the images there is a fortuitous space on both sides just in front of the motors? NPJ

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Neil We need to see more pics especially of the inside of the whole hull. In a Build Blog, you as the owner can add new topics as you progress, and this is what you now need to do by clicking the box at the top on your blog, adding an appropriate topic ' Inside Hull' then type some info and add pics, then post. Your build blog will then be more structured and members will be able to follow what bit you are building, and replies and help will be relevant to the task in hand. I would be wary about cutting away ribs and there may be other options.

Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade by NPJ Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Good morning Dave. I may need to cut away one of the hull 'ribs' on either side to get a flat area, but we will see. Busy week, but hope to draw out a 'layout' for those bits in the Hull and look at weight positioning. With using NiMh batteries, I am thinking that charging in the Hull may give me more flexibility with weight distribution. Could have choice to orientate Port/ Starboard then. Regards. NPJ

Sea Commander Ocean yacht by GARTH Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Thanks to a fellow in Tasmania I got plans for sea commander no names please took a week for my print shop to make plans size 24''in length I wanted to build the model in a scale that is manageable & easy to transport to the pond . Used 1/4 inch ply for ribs & cut them on my Drumel saw that's about 30 years old , so old I can't find blades any more in Canada

ribs by John Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Good job! 😁 👍

ribs by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Looking very good 'ship shape and Bristol fashion' 👍 BUT where's the barbecue sauce ?? 😉

ribs by chugalone100 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Great craftsmanship . I'll be a work of art!! Keep us informed. Julian😎

ribs by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Looks like it all fits together nicely. You are going to provide fixed support for the keel to the baseboard? You may also need to provide support for each former to keep it all square whilst you plank and the glue dries. A marked centre line on the build board may prove helpful. We built the Olympic and Titanic using plank on frames but with the frame tops attached to the board. See attached pic. Good luck with the build, I am looking forward to following your progress Dave

ribs by Northumbrian Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
the ply ribs have arrived i have spaced them out on the keel not a lot being done over the bank holiday

The Launch by Jerry Todd Commander   Posted: 5 months ago
As soon as the cutter was off the build-board, I started on the launch. The launch is the largest of the ship's boats and the only one of them that's carvel planked. The build board was cut narrower for the reason spoken of earlier. Since the frame spacing was the same, I could reuse most of the marks. The stem, keel, sternpost, and transom plus a sternpost knee, were assembled. The forms were cut from balsa again, sanded to the line and rough beveled, then glued to the board. The ribs are 1/16" thick x 1/8" wide bass again. This time I didn't glue them to the forms at all, they're only helg by the rubber bands. Once they were on the forms, the keel assembly was glued to the ribs and the build board and planking commenced. When the planking was done, the stem and transome were cut free and hull lifted off the forms. The ribs between the ribs were added. The drawings of Constellation's boat didn't show anything more than their lines. I had little information as to their interior and hardware details. For the launch, I did know she carried a 12 pound boat howitzer and some information on that which gave me a little more about the boat's interior. Using Ivan as a guide (He's a 1:35 scale WWII Russian sailor and the model's first of some 30-40 eventual crewmen) I determined there needed to be a deck in the boat so that went in, but first I painted the bilges of the boat as I'd never be able to get in there after the deck went on. The launch was coppered. I used peel-and-stick aluminum duct tape to "copper" the bottom, and painted it copper. I have a 1:36 scale British frigate in the works, and this is how I intend to "copper" her as it's less than 1/4 the cost of Constellation's real copper. The launch has special tracks and rails in her for handling the gun. The gun can be shifted fore and aft, and the field carriage can be tossed in the sheets, and rolled forward on tracks of it's own for taking ashore. We're still a long way from Higgins boats here folks. 😉 There's more details to add, to boat boats; hardware, water casks, thole pins, oars, sails, etc etc etc. There's also 4 more boats to build; the 2nd cutter, whaleboat, and two quarter-boats just alike.

Aeronaut Pilot Boat by cormorant Admiral   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi Nick Yes, I was very pleased with the final model and its maiden voyage. It looks particularly good with all the lights on. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4pTQgjg8ZuY&t=3s Just a reminder, be very precise when positioning the hull skins and don't use too much glue as the ribs will show through. Best of luck. Steve