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>> Home > Tags > ribs

Arctic Privateer H441 Deep Sea Freezer Stern Trawler by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
Do you have any other photos? If you have plans giving the hull sections then you could build using ribs and plank but without them you have no idea where to start with the hull shape. If you have photos of her in dry dock or during build then you could model something from the photos using foam and plaster of paris. When you are happy with the result making a mould off of that is fairly simple and well documented on youtube etc. Does the build company (Built in at the Gdynia Shipyard, Poland for Boyd Line Ltd. 212 x 38,4 ft.) have a web site with info? Does she have a sister ship or were there a series of the same hull? Steve

Sailing Barge plans help by Joe727 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 7 days ago
Hello Doug, Thank you for the quick response! I will probably take the hull lines drawing and create the ribs, etc. Cheers Joe

Maree III sharpie 10 Rater by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Maree III is a 10 Rater Sharpie design by A Wilcock dating back to 1958. MM plan MM/504. I first built her in 1996 but as with all these things family life got in the way or changed and I stopped taking her out. At some point I must have sold her but I can’t remember how or when. A few weeks back I decided to build something again and found the original plans under the bench so where better to start than there. I also found the MM Plans catalogue which is how I found the first date (Plan ordered 06/08/1996 pencilled in the margin). The original design does not have a bulb keel but I have decided mine will but not with the narrow carbon fin as used on the latest boat designs. She is also not for competition so I plan to include a cabin top for a more ‘scale’ appearance. Must give my thanks early on for the help I have had from David Creed who researched some old plans to find me a suitable design for the bulb keel but with a quite broad fin. As a result I have now made a plug for the bulb and a box in which to make the silicone mould. I have also cut out all the rib moulds so I can start laying up the hull. It is a monocoque design so these are just to build the hull shape. There will then only be a couple of ribs around the keel mount and mast step to add strength in those areas. Been buying materials but it is not easy as the plans have very little info on the sails and rigging.

tugboat keel by green72west Petty Officer   Posted: 3 months ago
I call them ribs!!!! what are the hull shaped [ribs] that form across the keel called. ship plan terms????. I am a novice at model making. Attempting to build tugboat the [tirrick] 1/50th scale in wood!!!!. i would appreciate an answer please. Thankyou r.s. 31/8/18.

Leaking Boat! by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Is there a clever way to find where the leak is in a hull? In this instance, boat sat static in water for eight hours and collected some water between compartment ribs in the centre two sections. One of these sections is open and 'getatable' the one next to it has had planking glued down. Leak seems not associated with either the front or back end and certainly not with drive shaft tubes. No visible signs on the outside of the hull even using magnifying glass. Depressed by the thought that may have to strip all the hull paintwork off! Any ideas? NPJ

Our boating water by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Sun shining, boat on the water, joystick in left hand, Bierkrug or wine glass in the right hand - can't beat it 😋😁 Need a third hand for the spare ribs 😉 Pics show my 'operating corner'.

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 months ago
Whilst waiting for the ice to melt, decided to make up the deck and transom flaps. The deck was made from styrene sheet, again for lightness. Made the deck beams out of square styrene sections to avoid traditional, heavy, full width bulkheads. Hoped the stiff MTBH hull would resist twisting without bulkheads. First impressions are that this is the case and when the deck is finally bonded to the hull, should be even better.. The transom flap was made from thin aluminium plate and added simulated stiffener ribs in styrene. Understand that about a 2 degree flap down inclination works best on this model. My original plan was to operate the flap using a servo with another radio channel, however once the best plane is achieved it is unlikely the flaps will need further adjustment. Unlike the real vessel, the operating weight will remain fairly constant. So, abandoned the servo idea to use adjustable bottle-screws instead. The flap angle can still be adjusted, but not in motion. These screws are much simpler, lighter and cheaper than a servo. One challenge was to make the very small hinges required for an adjustable flap. After much thinking and investigation, decided the simplest and neatest way would be to use thin, self adhesive aluminium tape, as used on forced air heating ducts. Would stick the self adhesive surface to the underside of the flap and then onto the inside face of another thin aluminium sheet, which could then be fitted to the transom using double sided tape and small screws. This seems to work so far, it also avoids drilling through holes into the transom .

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 months ago
The bench is so well camouflaged I couldn't find the ribs at first 🤔 Watching with interest to see how you get 'clinkered' up 😉

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 months ago
I had to open my mouth yesterday didn't I 😭 this morning I took of the clamps to file of the excess glue and dropped the frame onto the floor knocking one of the ribs of 💩so I have had to re-glue the rib back on again so will be starting the blanking tomorrow now.i have included a couple of pics of the boat frame before I dropped it. 😱😱

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 months ago
ships boat continued hi all have spent today knocking up a simple jig to hold the keel and ribs of the ships boat while the glue goes off. pic 1 & 2 shows the jig set with the keel in place. pic 3 shows the dry fit test to insure all fits square and true. pic 4 is all the ribs glued to the keel. The rig is made up of pieces of ali angle which was a damaged length from when my greenhouse was delivered last year, all i have done is cut 12 pieces approx 10-15mm wide and drilled 1 hole for fixing to the board. I then marked out the board for where the ribs need to be and fixed two of the brackets for either side of the ribs and used a length of 6x2 beech long enough to be clamped to both angles which was for clamping the ribs too, 1 piece of angle was placed at the front and stern to hold the keel square to the board which is a scrap bit of OSB. Each rib was dry fitted to the keel for any fine tuning using a set square to insure square and true, once i was happy with the results i dismantled it and refitted glueing the ribs in place again double checking with the set square to check for any movement in the jig.

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 months ago
the ships boat continued today i have finished cutting out the inner of the ribs with my tungsten rod saw. these where filed and sanded with 250 grit and 2500 grit sandpaper. i have dry test fit each of the ribs to be sure of a square true fit before they will be glued. tomorrow i will be making a jig to hold the keel and ribs while the glue goes of and to keep the frame square till planked. pic 1 is of the rod saw used pic 2 is of the ribs after being filed and sanded pic 3 & 4 is of the dry test fit Ron

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 months ago
ships boat continued i have got all the ribs cut out and the outer edge sanded within a couple of mm of the marked edge, leaving the last couple of mm for when they are fixed to the keel.(pic1) i then marked out and filed out the notch for the fixing point to the keel using my permagrit needle files.(pic2) finally today i finished with marking out the inner edge of the (pic3) ribs using my makeshift compass using a steel rule as the smooth edge with a couple of wood coffee stirrers as packers (pic4) to get a uniform width for all the ribs held together with a couple of cable ties ready for cutting out and sanding over the weekend. Ron

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 months ago
The ships boat continued The plans of the ships boat is to make it out of paper but I will be using walnut. I have made and cut out the cardboard templates for the ribs and stenciled them onto a walnut sheet , I cut these out using a coping saw and using permagrit sanding blocks to sand to shape after which I will mark the inner line and cut and final shaping to make the ribs their are 5 ribs in total.

British Air Sea Rescue Launch by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 months ago
Plastic Model Boat Kit WW2 British Air Sea Rescue Launch made of vacuum formed styrene approximately Length 24″ x 7″ 1/35th semi-scale. The Darlington & District Model Boat Club races semi scale craft being either a pleasure craft or military craft, between 22 and 34 inches long using a 7.4v 3300mah battery, but no racing gear apart from trim tabs. Construction is simple but the kit looked more like PT9 than a Whaleback due to the open fore cabin, which I enclosed with scrap styrene sheet. Note PT 9 was delivered to America by the British Power Boat Company and served as the blueprint for the development of the PT boats of the USA. To keep the boat as wide and strong as possible I didn't follow the instructions and cut the internal ribs after attaching the deck for a better fit, also cut a rib away for the battery to fit on far port side. (counter torque) and reinforce the sides of the craft with some 5mm square strips of styrene purchased separately along with some triangular running strakes under the hull.

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 months ago
I agree Gascoigne 👍 Classic case of 'things out of context'! Frodo, when the hull is constructed as per instructions I am sure you will find that that stern piece is supported on both sides by laminated pieces. 😊 Then you only have to carefully drill through the middle. On no account drill or cut the stern piece until it is attached to keel and ribs to hold it in position. Otherwise you hardly have a cat in hell's chance of getting the shaft in line with the pre-cut hole in the bulkhead, or even of correctly aligning the stern piece to the keel! Dry fitting to test the accuracy is good, but don't cut or drill until the instructions say to 😉 Ciao, Doug 😎