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>> Home > Tags > ribs

ribs
ribs
Our boating water by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Sun shining, boat on the water, joystick in left hand, Bierkrug or wine glass in the right hand - can't beat it 😋😁 Need a third hand for the spare ribs 😉 Pics show my 'operating corner'.

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Whilst waiting for the ice to melt, decided to make up the deck and transom flaps. The deck was made from styrene sheet, again for lightness. Made the deck beams out of square styrene sections to avoid traditional, heavy, full width bulkheads. Hoped the stiff MTBH hull would resist twisting without bulkheads. First impressions are that this is the case and when the deck is finally bonded to the hull, should be even better.. The transom flap was made from thin aluminium plate and added simulated stiffener ribs in styrene. Understand that about a 2 degree flap down inclination works best on this model. My original plan was to operate the flap using a servo with another radio channel, however once the best plane is achieved it is unlikely the flaps will need further adjustment. Unlike the real vessel, the operating weight will remain fairly constant. So, abandoned the servo idea to use adjustable bottle-screws instead. The flap angle can still be adjusted, but not in motion. These screws are much simpler, lighter and cheaper than a servo. One challenge was to make the very small hinges required for an adjustable flap. After much thinking and investigation, decided the simplest and neatest way would be to use thin, self adhesive aluminium tape, as used on forced air heating ducts. Would stick the self adhesive surface to the underside of the flap and then onto the inside face of another thin aluminium sheet, which could then be fitted to the transom using double sided tape and small screws. This seems to work so far, it also avoids drilling through holes into the transom .

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
The bench is so well camouflaged I couldn't find the ribs at first 🤔 Watching with interest to see how you get 'clinkered' up 😉

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
I had to open my mouth yesterday didn't I 😭 this morning I took of the clamps to file of the excess glue and dropped the frame onto the floor knocking one of the ribs of 💩so I have had to re-glue the rib back on again so will be starting the blanking tomorrow now.i have included a couple of pics of the boat frame before I dropped it. 😱😱

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
ships boat continued hi all have spent today knocking up a simple jig to hold the keel and ribs of the ships boat while the glue goes off. pic 1 & 2 shows the jig set with the keel in place. pic 3 shows the dry fit test to insure all fits square and true. pic 4 is all the ribs glued to the keel. The rig is made up of pieces of ali angle which was a damaged length from when my greenhouse was delivered last year, all i have done is cut 12 pieces approx 10-15mm wide and drilled 1 hole for fixing to the board. I then marked out the board for where the ribs need to be and fixed two of the brackets for either side of the ribs and used a length of 6x2 beech long enough to be clamped to both angles which was for clamping the ribs too, 1 piece of angle was placed at the front and stern to hold the keel square to the board which is a scrap bit of OSB. Each rib was dry fitted to the keel for any fine tuning using a set square to insure square and true, once i was happy with the results i dismantled it and refitted glueing the ribs in place again double checking with the set square to check for any movement in the jig.

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
the ships boat continued today i have finished cutting out the inner of the ribs with my tungsten rod saw. these where filed and sanded with 250 grit and 2500 grit sandpaper. i have dry test fit each of the ribs to be sure of a square true fit before they will be glued. tomorrow i will be making a jig to hold the keel and ribs while the glue goes of and to keep the frame square till planked. pic 1 is of the rod saw used pic 2 is of the ribs after being filed and sanded pic 3 & 4 is of the dry test fit Ron

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
ships boat continued i have got all the ribs cut out and the outer edge sanded within a couple of mm of the marked edge, leaving the last couple of mm for when they are fixed to the keel.(pic1) i then marked out and filed out the notch for the fixing point to the keel using my permagrit needle files.(pic2) finally today i finished with marking out the inner edge of the (pic3) ribs using my makeshift compass using a steel rule as the smooth edge with a couple of wood coffee stirrers as packers (pic4) to get a uniform width for all the ribs held together with a couple of cable ties ready for cutting out and sanding over the weekend. Ron

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
The ships boat continued The plans of the ships boat is to make it out of paper but I will be using walnut. I have made and cut out the cardboard templates for the ribs and stenciled them onto a walnut sheet , I cut these out using a coping saw and using permagrit sanding blocks to sand to shape after which I will mark the inner line and cut and final shaping to make the ribs their are 5 ribs in total.

British Air Sea Rescue Launch by CB90 Commander   Posted: 3 months ago
Plastic Model Boat Kit WW2 British Air Sea Rescue Launch made of vacuum formed styrene approximately Length 24″ x 7″ 1/35th semi-scale. https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/ww2-british-air-sea-res... The Darlington & District Model Boat Club races semi scale craft being either a pleasure craft or military craft, between 22 and 34 inches long using a 7.4v 3300mah battery, but no racing gear apart from trim tabs. Construction is simple but the kit looked more like PT9 than a Whaleback due to the open fore cabin, which I enclosed with scrap styrene sheet. Note PT 9 was delivered to America by the British Power Boat Company and served as the blueprint for the development of the PT boats of the USA. To keep the boat as wide and strong as possible I didn't follow the instructions and cut the internal ribs after attaching the deck for a better fit, also cut a rib away for the battery to fit on far port side. (counter torque) and reinforce the sides of the craft with some 5mm square strips of styrene purchased separately along with some triangular running strakes under the hull.

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
I agree Gascoigne 👍 Classic case of 'things out of context'! Frodo, when the hull is constructed as per instructions I am sure you will find that that stern piece is supported on both sides by laminated pieces. 😊 Then you only have to carefully drill through the middle. On no account drill or cut the stern piece until it is attached to keel and ribs to hold it in position. Otherwise you hardly have a cat in hell's chance of getting the shaft in line with the pre-cut hole in the bulkhead, or even of correctly aligning the stern piece to the keel! Dry fitting to test the accuracy is good, but don't cut or drill until the instructions say to 😉 Ciao, Doug 😎

Command Boat 90 by CB90 Commander   Posted: 3 months ago
Scratch built at 12th scale from pictures and profiles of the internet. The boat was originally built in Sweden a class of fast military assault craft originally developed for the Swedish Navy by Dockstavarvet Speed: 40 knots (74 km/h) Draught: 0.8 m (2 ft 7 in) Length: 15.9 m (52 ft) Overall; 14.9 (48') Complement: 3 (two officers and one engineer); Up to 21 amphibious troops with full equipment Armament: 3 × Browning M2HB machine guns; 1 × Mk 19 grenade launcher; 4 naval mines or 6 depth charges . The Model I was attracted to this boat due to its great performance and maneuverability, this was mainly due to the use of twin water jets as the main propulsion, this is a trade off with efficiency. So my start point was to collect as much information as possible about the boat this involved collecting pictures and profiles of the craft from various sources. http://www.dockstavarvet.se/products/combat-and-patrol-boats... Eventually I found some plans of sort :- http://laurell.today/boats/combat/plans.html My Dad was a boat builder in the days of wooden yachts, and had showed me how to make plans and frames from a line drawing. I went about this first by creating a prototype about 24 in long out of light ply. I then created full size plans of the model to be made. Pictures of small prototype finally painted plain green. The Main model Used my computer to print out the frames onto paper, cut them out and used them as templates for the ply ribs. The construction was simple chine style, with 1.5 mm ply. I tried to build jet drives but failed to produce a effective unit. So reverted to propshafts which worked out well with better control and the boat can spin on it own axis by putting one engine in reverse the other in forward and adjusting the twin rudders. That it for now, hope it was of some interest

WWII Italian MAS 562 by CB90 Commander   Posted: 4 months ago
MAS 562 (Motoscafo Armato Silurante: Torpedo Armed Motorboat) While Browsing the internet I came across a free plan dated 1969 if a Italian Motor torpedo boat I found the craft interesting as it had a stepped hull, and this looked like a challenge, so more research and historical digging. Built in 1941 by Baglietto, Varazze: built of wood (mahogany). Baglietto, Varazze: built MAS 561 through to MAS 570 MAS Baglietto class 500, 4th series" Displacement 27.8 tons Displacement max 28 tons Length 18.7m Width 4.7m Draught 1.5m Propeller shafts 2 Machinery Isotta Fraschini petrol engines and Alfa Romeo or Cararo cruising petrol engines Power, h.p. 2000 or 2300 / 140 or 100 Max speed 43 to 46 knots Fuel tank 1.5 tons Endurance 350 nautical miles at 42 knots Armament 1 x - 13.2/76 or 1 x - 20/65 Breda 1940, 2 x 450mm Torpedoes , 6 - 10 x Depth charges Crew complement 13 persons MAS 562, was captured by Germans 9/9/1943, transferred to RSI, was painted in disorientation camouflage, was captured by American PT' boats on June 30, 1944 and PT 306 towed the prize into Bastia. It was painted in disorientation camoflarge It is one of the few to have survived the war and passed to the Italian Guardia di Finanza in the 1950's. In 1940 there were 48 MAS 500-class units. The plan shows the gun on a box platform not the case on the real boat. Making this boat so small has been a bit of a challenge. Running gear 2x Graupner 600 8.4v about 70watts each at rated voltage. 2x shafts 2x opposite turning propellers (2 or 3 bladed) 3 blades on real boat. 35-40 mm 2x ESC 1 or 2 Batteries The Model after studying plans and photographs I could see a few things that I could add to the plans. A cambered deck A revised transom shape (not square) Two propshaft and two electric motors with air cooling. A reduction in the number of frames /ribs as the boat I was going to make was only 29in (83cm) long. the three main problems with the hull where :- the new frame positions and the thickness of the stringers the wood I used was too thick 12mm x 6mm for a small boat Correct gun and position. The Hull is now skinned I will upload some photos soon.

Simulated Ribs in Place! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
32 pieces of 1/8" squared by about 1/2" high spruce. Glued in place every 2" apart! Next comes the caprail...

TRIUMPH (CG-52301) USCG Type F MLB by circle43nautical Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Laser cut kit from Barracuda RC Boats, N Carolina, USA. Baltic birch plywood false keel, ribs/frames, hull sheathing, deck and cabins. No formal plans; I was able to source a handful of B&W archival photos from the USCG website. Fortunately I was able to procure a motherload of archival photos and a few hard to read layout drawings from Mr. Timothy Dring, LCDR, USN (Ret.). He is co-author of "American Coastal Rescue Craft", which is the "bible" if you will, of such. I do sometimes thank the internet. I am certain that without his assistance, my efforts on this wouldn't have been as enjoyable. The kit was also void of fittings, which I was aware of prior to purchase, so I invested in a 3D printer. That I've used to a limited degree, due to searching for parts in the correct file format is mind-numbing! I have globally sourced fittings; USA, UK, ASIA. As a matter of fact, the searchlights I got from this Model Boat Shop were 3D printed, and I was able to fit 5mm LEDs into them. I'd like to get a couple more and put some superbright 12v LED drone lamps in them for use on my 35" towboat. Many deck fittings are handmade when possible, the cleats and fairleads are from Cornwall Boats, UK. (Very reasonable & diverse source, if you didn't already know.) I try to keep wood natural when detail allows it, as I never have enjoyed painting over natural grain. Her decks are covered with 1/16" scribed basswood sheathing from earthandtree.com, which is normally used for wainscoting dollhouse walls. All my boats that have wood decks are covered with scribed sheathing; I feel it makes 'em look "sexy". Believe it or not, the idea for wainscoting came from finding 3/16" at Hobby Lobby's dollhouse department. A couple of feet x 3.5" was about $16, so I found a less expensive source that also had more selections (earthandtree.com) The rail stanchions are 3/16" square dowels with 2 corners rounded over on the Dremel router table. Leaving their base square, I fit a square peg into a round hole with no glue to facilitate removal, and also for ease of replacing broken ones, which is inevitable. The rail is 1/16" brass rod that also is readily removable. The stern rail is stationary on the lower half, and the chain & wire stanchions are removable for towing ops. The deck coamings and knuckle are African mahogany strips, other mahogany accents came from leftovers of a prior build. I also try on all my boats, to incorporate vintage leftover scribed sheathing salvaged from my late Father's builds, so I know he's got a part in my builds. Note-the raised deck section between the aft ladder trunk and towing bit is actually a laminated deckhouse he made for the Frigate Essex. Unfortunately, he was unable to build that kit due to Alzheimer's disease in his latter years. (I blame that mostly on the hazardous fumes from the airplane "dope" & glue he used when building RC planes in the 60s & 70s.) I use polyurethane instead of resin due to COPD, 37 yrs of smoking, I quit 2.5 yrs ago. The driveline consists of: 775 Johnson DC main (3500 RPM@12V), Harbor Models 4mm x 14" shaft w/brass stuffing box, Raboesch 75mm 5-blade brass wheel (not OEM), 5mm U-joint couplers, Dimart 320A fan-cooled ESC. Handmade wooden teardrop rudder on a 3/8" sternpost, 1/4" tiller arm steered by a Halcion sail winch servo and cable system. Flysky 6 channel. The nav lights and other illumination are Lighthouse 9v LEDs, also a GoolRC Receiver controlled flashing blue Law Enforcement light. Obviously, I put the cart before the horse and completed the topsides and below deck before finishing the outer hull, but the Wx and season change dictated such. Can't wait for Spring!

Plans by Dampfgerd Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 6 months ago
here, but that Plan cost 94,99 € ( Italian language ) http://shop.vth.de/riva-aquarama-in-italien-sprache.html After original documents completely revised plan. Completely dimensioned drawings from the original with complete interior. All ribs individually drawn.