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Model Boats Website Team
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Hi thanks for your input The pictures do not show the mini fans now attached to each motor which were robbed from PC cooling fans. The boat is not a performance craft I will hopefully only pull 20 to 30A from each of the low kv motors. Spec. 2808 1400KV 14 Poles Brushless Motor Max Watt: 350W Voltage range: 7-15V Max amps: 35A No load: 1.2A
Hi Colin, must admit I'm using some skills I didn't know I had, or had forgotten through disuse! It's been interesting though and I think I'm on the 'back straight' now. I'll write it up in the blog later. For the ESC any decent 20A brushed ESC will do nicely. I've been doing the testing with a years old Graupner Navy V30R and a Robbe Servo Tester, see pic. Good idea with the SATNAV, 7mph seems to be Spot On 👍 Cheers, Doug 😎
IN THE BEGINNING there was what looked like a pile of rust😲 which got soaked in WD40 for 24 hours! After washing off with warm water and washing-up liquid, and drying in the sun for a few hours, the bearings (and copper wire brushes) were oiled, missing connecting links bridged, and 6V (with current limit 3A set) was cautiously applied. Lo and behold she rattled and protested BUT RAN! Oh! That nostalgic smell of ozone, and enough sparks to read a book by🤔 Next connections were changed, to separate field and armature coils (brush gear), and connected to a standard brushed motor ESC (Graupner Navy 30A) via my prototype converter board, and a Robbe Servo Tester to simulate TX and RX. lo and behold chapter 2; she ran forwards and backwards😊 and no sparks! Now dismantled (last 3 pics) to start clean up and replacement of corroded parts. Sorry Col, I broked your motor😁😁 Armature was cleaned up and commutator polished; surprisingly lots of 'meat' on it so motor has not been run much. Next stop; lathe to make some new frame spacers. After that new bearing bushes cos the old Paxolin end plates have worn so that there's about 1/32" slop! Will probably have to turn the drive shaft down from original 1/4" (6.35mm) to 5mm to remove last traces of rust and pitting. Cheers All, Doug 😎
Just wondering if anyone's got any experience of building one of these boats. I've managed to get one brand new in the box. Wondering if 2 x 555 motors will be enough for it running on 11.4 Volts. Any information gratefully received. Regards Mike.
Hi Martin, would have thought the name was self explanatory! 😉 In the attached pic you can see my Robbe Servo Tester at the top. I used it to simulate the proportional signal from a receiver while testing your Taycol converter boards, not to power the motor.😲 Motor power came from the mains PSU in pic two, the battery eliminator circuit (BEC) in the ESC provided power to the tester. The tester provides the signal to drive servos, or in this case an ESC, and saves the faff of setting up TX and RX and fiddling with batteries when I want to test a circuit or function before building it into a boat. Cheers, Doug 😎 Oh, and by the way; when you get into lighting for your boats don't forget to buy an LED Tester as well 😁😁 You could also think about a simple RF Detector / Meter to check if your TX is actually transmitting 😁 Like I did with your TX using a home brew device - OR you could wait til I get around to publishing a Build Blog for the refined version I am making using a couple of RF diodes and a sensitive 300microamp meter 😊
I know Martin, sometimes I blind myself 😁😁 Anyway I thought 'in for a penny ...', if I'm gonna make the boards then ... 'Wenn schon denn schon' as they say over here 😊 OK. I'll screw the boards into the boxes and put lids and screws in a bag. I'll leave you to make the cut outs in the boxes for the wires 😁 For the benefit of others here's a pic of the test setup and some video evidence dat de ding woiks 😉 RATS 😡 video file too big, 30MB limit 🤔 Will try another method later. Taycol Target was running on 6V with current limit set to 2.5A - just in case! All three boards work perfectly using the Robbe Servo tester instead of messing about with TX, RX and batteries 😉 Will now start packing everything, with instructions for the mods to the Taycols. By the way; do any of your Taycols have reversing coils and that silly lever switch? Cheers, Doug 😎
Just for information. While I was browsing through the Yacht section of pictures, I came across another Smaragd yacht. The pictures were posted 2/3 yrs ago. I wonder if they are still active members, and have seen any of our chats and pages. It would be good to hear from them. Still looking through the many archived pictures. Best Regards Ray.
Purchased new in kit form, from Robbe. 1998. Specifications:- Overall length: 1380mm. Overall beam: 360 mm. Draught: 300 mm. Mast height: 1800 mm. Overall height: 2200 mm. Standard sail area: 80 square dm. Sail area with Genoa: 94 square dm. Total displacement: 12 kg. Ballast: 8 kg. Scale: 1:10 Control Robbe Futaba F14 Marine transmitter / receiver. Channel 1 - Rudder servo. Channel 2 - Spare. Channel 3 - Genoa sail servo. Genoa switch module - fitted between the stick potentiometer and the transmitter channel 3 Socket. (Reverses the Genoa sail servo for Port or Starboard tack.) Channel 4 - Main sail servo. Channel 5 - Auxiliary 3 position switch - up position. Channel 6 - Auxiliary 3 position switch - down position. Receiver channel 5 - Mono Memory relay module. To drive the Blister motor out, to raise the Genoa Sail Clew. Receiver channel 6 - Mono Memory relay module. To drive the Blister motor in, to tighten the Genoa Sail Clew. Recently recovered from the back of the shed, where it has been in hibernation. Now I am retired and have some free time, it is under a review and refurbishment. New paint on the deck and upper hull (above the waterline). Solid state relay modules added, to replace the micro switches, operated from a cam on a servo (replacing analogue channel 2 with on/off channels 5 and 6). Pictures show the sea trials after the 10 year hibination. The Genoa Module had failed in the carbon potentiometers. No replacement available, so found a local electronics repairers, who changed the potentiometers for £10.00. The carrying cradle was designed to hold the sails, and secure the yacht while rigging at the waters edge. Also acts as a dry dock, while working inside the hull. When the repaired module is fitted, and the Genoa sail is operational, I will post detailed video of the Genoa sail winch and Blister motor and their operation while sailing. Genoa Sail Pictures added.
Our posts crossed Ray............. Thanks for all that and I understand the transport issues. Gives me a good reason for doing away with the 'weak bits'. I am trying just to get the Tender under power so it can be used during the next two months, then back to the yacht may be. However someone has been kindly tidying my stuff up and now I cannot find even the transmitter! Can print out the stuff you provided though................. All the best. NPJ