Hi Dave, It didn't twitch back and forth, it jumped (!) like it had a stepper motor !? I tried it on the Robbe servo tester and it seemed OK. T'other was still dead 🤔 Both servos are fairly recent. The jumpy one a mini Hitec HS-81, the dead one a Conrad (🤔) 8gm micro. If the dead one stays dead the insides will end up in my 'Useful bits' rack! I have a reasonable servo stock so it's not really worth spending much time repairing it. BUT I do like to know how things work and above all why they don't! Bonner: Did you mean the one with the 6 pin plug ? Can't ask the chap who gave me them, also Dave (!) an ex RN Captain I met at the Ostpark lake, I think he died about 10 years ago - RIP. We used to go flying over the Alps at weekends in his ancient Cessna, great fun BUT LOUD. My little daughter loved it 😊 The then wife you couldn't get within a 100yds of it! I don't expect any range problems either, 100yds to the other side of the lake to wake up the sunbathers (Whoop whoop!) is enough for me😉 Cheers Doug 😎 PS: think maybe I'll start a separate thread to continue this saga; testing and product review etc. Just like old times - designing and presenting Comms systems 😉
Hi All, Diodes: - Trillium is correct of course, although some ESCs have a 6V BEC. Some RXs work off 3 - 3.7V for 1S LiPo operation in small boats. Not the case here. 😉 As for stability I would guess that you get what you pay for! Cheap unstable, expensive stable!? Higher current versions with a switched supply? But the diodes are the only way to achieve the situation posed in the original question. Personally I wouldn't do it for all the reasons listed above. In RHs case seems to me the port ESC fault shot the BEC and robbed the RX of it's power supply resulting in total loss of control.😡 That's what shut down the stbd motor (ESC went Fail Safe) and why I asked if the rudder still responded; "No answer came the stern reply" 🤔 Why it may have failed Dave-M knows better than I, more practice! 👍 Cheers Doug 😎
I was thinking of a few drops of nitroglycerine myself 😉 Busy busy busy😋 Any chance of a trial of the K7 itself before Donald (Quack quack) is finished? Any pics of the LC?? A swimming Sherman on board?? One of the 'Follies' that worked, at least on the British beaches, the Americans at Omaha had less luck with them🤔 Re the Diabolo: they must have had a reason for specifying self tappers, now you've found it 😉 Hope you didn't glue the E-box in with Stab Express 😡 Re China: some bits arrive amazingly fast, some never 😭 For me it was only a €3 part on a bigger Amazon order so after 1 unanswered Email I let it go - life's too short. Struck 'em off my Preferred supplier list! Happy buttering, cheers Doug 😎 BTW: for users of Robbe kits and bits Krick has taken over their whole marine range, marketed as RoMarin. In Germany delivery is usually the day after ordering😊 Today my new Raboesch brass props for Belfast, Graf Spee and Sea Scout as well as Ezekote and some other bits & pieces ordered from Krick only yesterday arrived by DHL, 5 stars for service 😊 No excuse now 🤔 http://www.krickshop.de/
I think those doublers will need explosives to get them off... I've hit a bit of a roadblock with the big K7, I need to get Donald built up so I can position the steering wheel & dash correctly, the animatronic resin upper torso & arms I bought came with no instructions or info on what servos to use. I got some micro servos & they didn't fit, Dremel out & all fits now but I'm now struggling with connecting the servo arm to the rotating neck. I'll suss it out eventually but I need a rest. I've been doing bits on my 1/12 scale K7 in the background, if all goes well it should be ready for paint in a couple of weeks. As normal I've been waiting for parts to arrive from China, the brushless motor & esc arrived today for the blue rigger, I can make a start on that soon.. I've just finished printing the parts for the cabin for a Springer tug hull I got from Sonar & I've just started printing the first parts of a WW2 landing craft, its 1/16 scale nearly a metre long, I guess I'll be making a tank for it when it's completed. Then there's the Robbe Diabolo, on the instructions it says to use self tapping screws to hold the plastic dual rudders in place. No good to me as I've upgraded to dual aluminium rudders, these buggers need bolts! Trouble is the waterproof electronics box is used as a doubler for the central transom, when it's glued into place there isn't any room to access where the rudder bolts come through the doublers, ohhh the joy of problem solving.... So I'm keeping busy but my butter is spread a bit too thin. Cheers Wayne
Hi Wayne This was always the best way to glue the Robbe range of fuselages when I used to build and fly model planes. It is specially formulated for the type of plastic used by Robbe and others. Used correctly it is hard to fault. It has a unique smell not dissimilar to some of the stuff my dentist uses when filling my cavities! The good news is an equivalent is available from The Model Shop Leeds http://www.modelshopleeds.co.uk/catalog/advanced_search_resu... Cost is less than a tenner and it is as good as the Stabilit Express. It's a solvent type glue and gives the strongest joints. This is a tube of resin plus a small tub of powder but check as there are similar UHU products with two tubes which may not be the same. For the strongest joints it's hard to beat and I never had a failed joint in all my years of flying. Hope this helps Dave
Why is this stuff sooo expensive? I bought an unmade Robbe kit & the instructions say to only use Stabilit Express, as I was worried about deforming the hull using anything else I bit the bullet & bought some from Germany £22...... What's special about it? Cheers Wayne
[Score: 8/10] 28"/1100g Lightning 46 Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 35mm) Direct Drive to a Power 600/19 (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Robbe Rokraft 120µ ESC - Comments: Old school Robbe kit that I found 2 years ago.Build as intended except for the use of LiPo. I have only tested it with 2S mA >Cell but as the weight is less than half of the intended cell NiCD it performs great. The plan is to get my GPS logger on it. And also to test with 3S mA LiPo.
Model kit made on or about 1969 by defunct German firm Robbe based upon Chris Craft Roamer motor yachts of the era. Hull appears to be inspired on 1950s Chris Craft Constellation series. Model tried to emulate a 46 feet version. I got this one half-built and adapted as a gift for my child inspired in the "My Little Pony" characters. Approx. 1/20 scale. Authentic Chris Craft Roamer 46 measured 46 x 15 feet. It runs with a 4-bladed 40mm metal propeller, 320A 7.2V-16V ESC 30A constant, a NiMH 9.6v battery, and a Mabuchi 540 Motor.
Hi Larry As Doug says we need to know what you hope to achieve with your restoration? Also can you advise what modelling skills you have so we can pitch advice at the right level. Intially I suggest you use some soap and water to wash the outside of the model and perhaps layout and photo all the loose electrical bits so we can see what you have. I suspect this is perhaps a Robbe kit as some of the electrics seem to be of that genre. It would be great if any member can identify the model Dave
Hi Guys, Cant agree more. the reliability etc was always suspect, sudden glitches were the death of several of my models, Just had our club guru convert my Macgregor IV to 2.4ghz using a Futaba module, he has done a Robbe F14 for me as well, I doff my cap to you electronics guys, i know its a basis of switching but changing batteries and a bit of soldering is my limit Mark
I have two sailing boats, two tugs, one trawler,one pilot boat, one speedboat all working. Restoring one robbe dusseldorf, building one tamar lifeboat,helping my son with a 48" perkasa and I have two lesro fire tenders waiting to be restored and a steam launch to build and now I am wondering why I keep looking at other boats and dreaming. Good job my wife understands, I just can't help myself!
Purchased on well known auction site. Boat very dusty/dirty but sound. It is from a Robbe kit that was around about 10 years ago and has timber decking, built-in auxiliary motor, navigation lights, etc. A deep clean followed by a re-paint of the superstructure, rub the decking down and varnish, followed by a complete rub down and re-paint of the hull brought her back to a fine yacht. She is about 40 inches in length and sails beautifully and has great presence on the water.
[Score: 10/10] 15"/500g Milkshake Capable of 15mph Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type 20mm) Direct Drive to a robbe (2 Blade S Type) Powered by NiCad (9.6v) Batteries Controlled Through mtronics ESC - Comments: This little guy was built about 40 years ago. It is based on a ABS hull that was part of a Sterling kit made many years ago. I used the hull and just made up the rest. Originally it had a hedge clipper motor now it has a robbe motor and runs on 8 2/3 aa batteries. It is one of my favorites runners because it is little and really fast and maneuverable. Generally runs rings around other boats Currently it is on it third refit.