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I have the following setup in my Classic: Graupner BL Compact 260Z 1380KV with a Graupner ESC 18A FWD and REV. The shaft is replaced with a Robbe 4mm (no 1442) as the one provided is a flimsy part that will not withstand the motor set-up. Prop is a 33mm Graupner racing item. It is running on LiPo 2S but if one need a rocket it can run on 3S. Great fun to build and performs great on the water
This ship was a lightship tender named "Coeur de Lion" that was armed and drafted into the Union during the civil war to counter blockade runners. This model is scratch built and is inspired by a paper model designed by Magnus Mörck. A sidewheel steamer equipped with the typical walking beam machinery, it was rebuilt to carry three guns. A line of iron plates along the gun wales added a measure of armoured protection. After the war it was returned to lightship service. On my model the paddles are independently driven, mainly because I have a Robbe Navy F14 transmitter with twin sticks. The walking beam is operated by a servo modified for continuous rotation. The original ship towed a barge that flew an observation balloon and could be described as the first 'aircraft carrier' the fifth picture shows the barge I have made - I hope one day to emulate the real thing by raising and lowering a suitable balloon. I have included some pictures of the rest of my paddle fleet.The 'Rachel Erin' is a freelance sternwheeler 'quarter wheeler' tug that uses a worm drive to the paddles. She does not steer well. The last ship is an enlarged version of Graham Goodchild's Santa Anna.
Hi This could be the Robbe Nordenay. This was a research vessel which is well out of production but a nice and impressive work boat. If you google robbe Nordney you will see pictures of her. She was twin screw with a crane to lower a work boat. Regards Kevin
I'm not sure what you mean by 'earthquakes' - do you mean there was lots of vibration? The prop-shaft and the motor shaft should be aligned as precisely as you can manage. Though a universal joint will accept some misalignment, you should aim to get things so precise that there is no need for a joint! That tube looks rather thin. I use tube which is 10-12mm in OD, with about 3-4 mm thick walls. You are correct that I 'make the shafts larger' by putting little knurled knobs made from aluminium bar on them. If you do not have a lathe, you can buy similar couplings like this: https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Robbe-Flexible...
Hi thanks for your input The pictures do not show the mini fans now attached to each motor which were robbed from PC cooling fans. The boat is not a performance craft I will hopefully only pull 20 to 30A from each of the low kv motors. Spec. 2808 1400KV 14 Poles Brushless Motor Max Watt: 350W Voltage range: 7-15V Max amps: 35A No load: 1.2A
Hi Colin, must admit I'm using some skills I didn't know I had, or had forgotten through disuse! It's been interesting though and I think I'm on the 'back straight' now. I'll write it up in the blog later. For the ESC any decent 20A brushed ESC will do nicely. I've been doing the testing with a years old Graupner Navy V30R and a Robbe Servo Tester, see pic. Good idea with the SATNAV, 7mph seems to be Spot On 👍 Cheers, Doug 😎
IN THE BEGINNING there was what looked like a pile of rust😲 which got soaked in WD40 for 24 hours! After washing off with warm water and washing-up liquid, and drying in the sun for a few hours, the bearings (and copper wire brushes) were oiled, missing connecting links bridged, and 6V (with current limit 3A set) was cautiously applied. Lo and behold she rattled and protested BUT RAN! Oh! That nostalgic smell of ozone, and enough sparks to read a book by🤔 Next connections were changed, to separate field and armature coils (brush gear), and connected to a standard brushed motor ESC (Graupner Navy 30A) via my prototype converter board, and a Robbe Servo Tester to simulate TX and RX. lo and behold chapter 2; she ran forwards and backwards😊 and no sparks! Now dismantled (last 3 pics) to start clean up and replacement of corroded parts. Sorry Col, I broked your motor😁😁 Armature was cleaned up and commutator polished; surprisingly lots of 'meat' on it so motor has not been run much. Next stop; lathe to make some new frame spacers. After that new bearing bushes cos the old Paxolin end plates have worn so that there's about 1/32" slop! Will probably have to turn the drive shaft down from original 1/4" (6.35mm) to 5mm to remove last traces of rust and pitting. Cheers All, Doug 😎
Just wondering if anyone's got any experience of building one of these boats. I've managed to get one brand new in the box. Wondering if 2 x 555 motors will be enough for it running on 11.4 Volts. Any information gratefully received. Regards Mike.
Hi Martin, would have thought the name was self explanatory! 😉 In the attached pic you can see my Robbe Servo Tester at the top. I used it to simulate the proportional signal from a receiver while testing your Taycol converter boards, not to power the motor.😲 Motor power came from the mains PSU in pic two, the battery eliminator circuit (BEC) in the ESC provided power to the tester. The tester provides the signal to drive servos, or in this case an ESC, and saves the faff of setting up TX and RX and fiddling with batteries when I want to test a circuit or function before building it into a boat. Cheers, Doug 😎 Oh, and by the way; when you get into lighting for your boats don't forget to buy an LED Tester as well 😁😁 You could also think about a simple RF Detector / Meter to check if your TX is actually transmitting 😁 Like I did with your TX using a home brew device - OR you could wait til I get around to publishing a Build Blog for the refined version I am making using a couple of RF diodes and a sensitive 300microamp meter 😊