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>> Home > Tags > roof

roof
roof
Broads River Cruiser Yachts by ChrisG Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
I have only just come across these build photos and must say I really do admire both yachts the one shown sailing with the dinghy behind it particularly. I am not surprised that you were overwhelmed with request to buy the kits, to me they are simply lovely. I have a friend who purchased a real one some years ago and had it shipped to Leics and it was on the River Soar, lovely thing with a cabin roof that could be raised for headroom and canvas cabin sides. I am sure there would be lots of interest if you resumed production. Best regards Chris G

March'71 by Sakibian Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 18"/500g March'71 Capable of 9mph and a runtime of 10mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 25mm) Direct Drive to a 180 brushed motor (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 1Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Hnadmade by arduino (30Amps) ESC - Comments: The BEST thing about this one is, she's very smooth on the run. Decent power, makes it more fun. When it turns with speed, gets down like a bike. So that's the time when it leaks a tiny amount of water. Bcz it's not waterproof on the deck. Can take 2s-3s Lipo. Bcz the motors are 3s rated only. Have a plan to change them into better Mabuchi ones.

Power switch location / mount by Joe727 Admiral   Posted: 20 days ago
Continue to mockup exterior a bit, still just rough paint, needs work prior to final colors and finish. Shown in the photos are a Switch Holder made by Dubro, a hobby parts maker in the US. This holder uses a slide switch and allows for through the hull mounting. I use this because I want my switch to be activated without having to remove a hatch. Since my large hatch limited where I could fit the switch, I ended up having to mount it on the bow, not the most desirable position due to bow waves. So I built up a mounting from a plastic pipe fitting, a grommet and a screw cap, tried to make it look nautical. This will raise the top of the rod hole high to further weather proof it. See picture with rod only, I replaced the Dubro rod with a longer one that I made from steel rod I had, threaded it and it works. Will trim the length and attach a finger bulb on top. LAST PHOTO -- EVER FEEL LIKE SOMEONES WATCHING YOU. Cheers, Joe

Propshaft Lubrication by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Hi All I use silicon tap grease as it's waterproof and add a bit more after each outing. Strip down, check for wear once a year and regrease. Started using Teflon bearings for the lower bearing which are holding up to the brushless motors. Canabus

Ady Gil, trimaran by rcmodelboats Commander   Posted: 23 days ago
So far I've shaped the wings to the correct shape and water proofed the hull. The pictures of the boat in white were taken before the wing photos

All hooked up, nowt happens... by DodgyGeezer Lieutenant   Posted: 25 days ago
This 'Cheap Chinese' design, according to the documentation, seems to come in several different (nominal) amp ratings, and, interestingly, in a 'standard car' or in a 'crawler' version. The one for crawlers - slow rock-climbing cars - is also recommended for tanks, and has a jumper giving the sort of instant reverse we would use for boats. This looks like an example... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Waterp style='background-color:yellow;'>roof-Brushed-1060-60A-ESC-For-RC-1-10-Crawler-Car-Tank-Model-Accessory/362488539332?epid=13025976857&hash=item54660028c4:g:ybcAAOSwwdNb7rDO:rk:127:pf:0 Which might help if anyone's browsing cheap brandless ESCs...

All hooked up, nowt happens... by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
Hi All If you require a brush ESC. The Hobbyking one is the only one I have found with straight forward/ reverse with NO BRAKE. Set is with links, but the they only work on Nicads and Lipo batteries. They will run on 12 volt SLA, but no less!!!! I am using them in my two Hellen fishing boats with 55 turn rock crawler motors on 2S Lipo on 60% throttle. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbywing-quicrun-60a-2s-3s-wate... style='background-color:yellow;'>roof-brushed-esc-for-1-10.html Canabus

Deck, servo mount by Joe727 Admiral   Posted: 28 days ago
Put together a pilot house based on some tugs I've seen. Just freelanced it as I went. I build a lot with styrene so I am used to just cutting and building. I use liquid styrene cement that fuses the materials together. See photo, will trim it out as I mount it, need to add some detail at roof and some Navigational lighting. Put on on 3mm plywood deck, same as hull bottom. The deck is also curved (proper term is SHEAR) and I started to build up some wood edge at the opening. Will sand everything well, then start sealing and priming all surfaces. Made a bracket for the rudder servo mount and an adjacent platform for the ESC and RX. Ordered two 6v 5ah SLA batteries. I will wire in parallel to stay with 6v and get 10ah. I like to stay with 6 volts as I want the motor to run slow like a tug should. Will wire in an in-line fuse. Haven't decided where I will put switch, up high somewhere to avoid water. I will show the wiring once I get to it. This build is going fast because it's a simple design, just what I was looking for. I work on it late afternoons and into the evening while I watch basketball games. About 4 hrs a day. Looking forward to building the hatch and getting some primer started tomorrow. Regards, Joe 👍

Sea Queen Frames by DodgyGeezer Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
The seller doesn't care about that. And Ebay doesn't care about that. I have had this battle. Ebay deals in volume sales with some simple rules. So long as the seller is willing to refund unhappy customers they can continue trading. Ebay are not competent to determine what counts as 'not well drawn' for a set of model plans, and won't get into that argument. Ebay will go through a standard procedure if copyright breach is alleged. From their site: "EeBay has created the VeRO program to protect intellectual property owners from trademark, patent or copyright infringement. Property right owners register with the VeRO program by sending eBay legal documentation and proof that they own the specified intellectual property. Having registered with eBay’s VeRO program, these property right owners monitor listings on eBay, or they use third-party web monitoring agents that help warn them of infringement threats. When their rights are violated, the owner or a representative can file a complaint by filling out the NOCI (Notice of Claimed Infringement) form, complete with proof of the violation, and sending it to eBay by email or fax. eBay then investigates the issue and notifies the seller via email that a VeRO participant requested that their listing be removed. The listing will remain suspended unless and until a settlement is reached between the seller and the property rights owner." Unless the Aerokits copyright holder takes VeRO action there is nothing you can do to stop copyright breach. This makes me quite unhappy, because I would like to put the full set of Aerokits plans up on my Old Boat Plans website, but I will only do it with copyright holder approval. If you want to do anything about it you would be best advised to contact Lesro and encourage them to do something about it - http://lesromodels.co.uk/contact/

Internal wiring & bottom skins by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Because I am keen to conceal as much of the wiring as possible I have decided to place the battery at the bow and the operational equipment at the stern, the engine on the original boat was central and covered with a soundproof box and this is convenient as the motor can be positioned and concealed in the same way. This means that some of the wires will have to run the full length of the boat and the easiest way to conceal them is to run them beneath the ‘box’ around which the hull is formed, and this needs to be done before the bottom skins are fitted. Holes were bored through the bulkhead formers under the port side of the hull and battery cables were run to the stern where the ESC will be and three motor wires from the ESC run to the centre, emerging near the motor position. For good measure I put in a servo cable and a separate draw wire just in case I needed to put more cabling in for any additional features, perhaps working navigation lights? Satisfied that I had all the cabling in place I was able to fit the bottom skins starting with the starboard side first. Before doing so I put a very slight 'hollow' in former F1 which should help blend the shape of the the hull where the ply skins meet the balsa blocks that will to be carved and shaped to form the bow. This can be seen in the last picture. The process of forming and fixing the skins is the same as for the side skins but in addition to the pins holding the skins in place I used some brown polythene ‘packing tape’ to pull the skins tightly against the bulkhead formers and strakes. The packing tape has a very high tensile strength and is ideal for this, and of course cheap and easy to remove. Once the aliphatic glue had set thoroughly overnight I removed the excess from the skins with a small block plane and finished them with my sanding plate. Before I fit the skin at the stern I will have to arrange the water cooling for the ESC, with the pickup just behind the prop and the outlet on the stern. I’ll cover that aspect in the next update.

Pretend deck planking by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Steve, What went wrong? 😲 1. Drawing on deck planking, i.e. on a veneer or thin ply- Why/how did it go wrong? Surely since the planks are all 'parallel curves' all you need to do is make a curve template in plasticard from the plan. Then at a few strategic points along the plank length mark the widths of the planks. Set the template along these points and 'Bob's yer Uncle - Fanny's yer Aunt' 😉 Mind you; doing it that way the 'curious grain of the planks' would betray the fiddle🤔 2. 'what type of strip wood - Any very close grained type. Possible source- http://www.slecuk.com/index.html 3. How to glue it!? Any thin, spreadable waterproof wood glue! 4. Gap? Max 0.5mm perhaps. Ca 10 to 1 ratio. 5. 'How do you secure the bent planks whilst the glue dries? Modelling pins at strategic points along the plank. Assumes planks are pre-shaped by steaming!! See 6. 😉 6. 'Do I need to steam the planks? - YES! As mentioned above; make a template defining the curve required. From this make a jig of ca 5mm x 10mm in which you can set the steamed planks to cool and set to the shape required. To allow for the so called 'spring back' make the jig with a slightly sharper curve than the actual deck curve. When fitting the planks to the deck it's easier to 'push them out' than to try to increase the curvature. Finally; mark on the deck base the plank widths at strategic points along the plank length as alignment points. Glue planks alternately left/right (OK port/starboard😉) using modelling pins to hold in place until the glue is fully cured. For the 'gaps' There are various solutions in Build Blogs on this site. One that I like is the use of thin black card. When the whole deck is planked and properly cured sand lightly (ca 240 grit). 7. 'weathered teak' there are various suppliers of teak stain and also deck weathering stains; e.g. Jotika stain, Lifecolor Washes for Hulls and Wooden Decks, set part no. LP04, which includes Wooden deck darkener and Shadower, amongst other useful weathering pigments. http://www.astromodel.it Google Lifecolor and you'll surely find some UK distributors. Enough answers for enough questions!? 😁 Hope this provides some inspiration, Cheers, Doug 😎

steam water pump by GaryLCoupland Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Rick, if you google TVR 1ABB steam engine, you will find a really neat and very good value for money steam engine. I'm afraid this is not cheap and around the £250 mark, mind it does have ball race bearings on the crankshaft. This comes as a kit of parts and you have to build it from scratch. when you have completed this task you will have a really good knowledge of exactly how a double acting slide valve engine works while putting this together, you can save up for a boiler to go with it, the instructions for building are very good almost idiot proof they must be as I have built several. Beautiful engine and powerful it will easily power a hull of one-meter length. Something to think about and Christmas is coming.

Elizabeth Cabin/superstructure by muddy Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
The cabin has now been finished off with a well deck, the well deck is made of balsa mostly, and the floor is oly, the well deck floor is lined as planks ( urghh ), firstly scored with a blunt Stanley type knife blade the the plank lines infilled with pencil, the floorboard nail marks are just scored with a sharp pin with a little cyno rubbed in the hole to colour the pin prick, decided to make this as an all in one removal unit, It still has to be glazed and fittings plus furniture, as in windscreen , door's consul etc: .. The deck and all other woodwork has been varnished and the cabin roof painted white, awaiting suitable weather to paint the hull, as this is done outdoors.. Muddy....

Proboat Sonicwake by boaty Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
Three weeks ago I got a Proboat Sonicwake deep V fast electric. This appears to be a replacement for their previous model Vorocity. Very interesting self righting method with a water tank on the port side, slots in the deck and a large exit point at the stern. Idea is that if it capsizes, water will enter through the slots and as it draws the boat under, the air trapped in the hull will self right it. If the boat is stationary in the water, it will list to port due to water entering through the stern outlet and when power is applied it will empty out. Bit scary to watch at first as I thought the boat was on its way to Davy Jones. I use waterproof marine clear tape to seal around the hatch ever time I use it. The quality of the hull raises a few concerns. This relates to its ABS construction as the vast majority of similar boats at that price are made of fibreglass which is much more rigid and would be more suitable for the high speeds. Makers claim it does 50 MPH plus on 6S lipos. The electrics however are excellent with the exception of the external quality of the Horizon Hobby STX2 TX which looks a bit "toyish". For myself, this is not relevant as I replace all my wheel TXs with the "stick type" and I found that the Futaba T2HR fulfils all requirements and worked well when I sailed the boat. I have not yet changed the stock prop for an Octura one, the latter works great on my Blackjack 29 with a noticeable increase in performance. The motor is a Dynamite Marine W.C brushless 1900 KV with a 120 amp W.C ESC . 😁😋 Boaty.

Sanding done by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Steve, for the 'white stick', the VHF IMM band antenna, any old rod will do. The real ones are copper wire covered in glass fibre. Length of the real thing is about 107cm including the coaxial end feed connector at the bottom. They are usually mounted on a 'scaffold' type pole with two U clamps. On pleasure craft they are often just whip antennas approx 1m length, much much cheaper than the pro jobs 😉, with a dome shaped mounting and the antenna cable is fed into it through the deck/roof it is mounted on. Alternatively there is a side connector in the mount with an 'N' Type coaxial socket. Make a whip out of piano wire (with a ball on the top to protect your eyeballs!😆) and you could use it as your RX antenna - about the right length. Construction coming on nicely.👍 Cheers, Doug 😎