Hi Doug, Going bang was all about my worry. More bang for your bucks???? would hate to loose you for the forum just to see you disappearing though the hole were your roof used to be!!!! PS, wonder if any of the security services have clocked our mixture discussion's??? might be a stern knock on the door soon!!! Regards Mark. (Free for now!!!!)
A good day of adding detail to the superstructure. Todays acheivments included soldering the antenna mounts, antennas from carbon rod. all stanchion railings, horn, some grab handles, hatch handles. finished the day when bad light stopped play with a little paint touch up and some highlight dry brushing. Still to do, mount working searchlight, lifebelt, grab poles,nav lights, roof antennas, front hatch, radar mounting and motor for it with a few other tiny bits n bobs before laquer and windows.
Hi, No I haven't but it's very simple.. The stern Lights are all on the gantry frame. I made a channel in the wood to disguise the wires. They go through a hole in the deck and connect to a 9v battery. The forward lights are all connected to another 9v battery which sits in a mounting on the u derided of the wheelhouse roof. It's very basic but they work and I am more than happy with the effect! The casings for all the lights are scratch built. Sorry it's not very elaborate!
Good progress on superstructure so far. base coat orange applied, anti-dazzel black applied. have started the weathering process on the doors hatches ect and applied the lettering. Not sure how acurate the applied lettering acuracy is, but I am happy with it. I have monday and tuesday off work (Sunday I am being tasked in the garden!) so plan on building, painting and adding the wiper blocks and wipers, all handrails, stanchions, lighting, horn, searchlight, twin antennas, all roof wire work, lifebelt, RNLI Flag and pole, motor for radar and grapple poles. Once all thats added, the whole superstructure less the anti-dazzle panels will get a couple of coats of gloss laquer before I pop in the glazing. Plan is to finish the superstructure completly before moving back to the hull.
So today has been a good day of progress. spent the morning giving the superstructure a couple of coats of sanding sealer with plenty of sanding inbetween. Have then spent the rest of the day making a good start on the detailing which included most of the plasticard window frames, roof nav light housings, most of the hatches, marking and drilling the holes for the stanchions, adding a brass exhaust on the side, drilling and loose mounting the radar and a few other bits n bobs. Tomorrow afternoon should see the bulk of the detailing finished less any metal work i.e stanchions and all the roof metalwork which will be added after painting.
Hi Mark, that should work a treat, I still have doubts on if a decent surface finish can be achieved & like Doug said balance could be a problem. But as they say up north, the proof is in the pudding😂 I'll have another go with props after the jeep has finished printing👍 Cheers Wayne
Sprinkles, a scratch built, U.S. Coast Guard PWB (patrol boat waterways) is just about done. Operating features include; working running and searchlight, rotating radar and blue emergency beacon. Water monitor on cabin roof can traverse and squirt water 10-15 feet. Bending tubing for the water monitor was difficult, it is actually a composite of several types. Nozzle was made on Unimat. Pump is a Sig "gas passer" Propulsion is from two 600 size motors geared 2:1 with 9.6V Nimh and 3 blade 45mm Graupner props
PS to Chris, Assuming an optimum speaker / transducer, to get more volume you need a more powerful amplifier, more Watts! The little stand-alone boards rarely produce more than 1W. Again check the Component Shop. Also check that your speaker / transducer is rated for the higher power!! If using a traditional speaker with a cone make sure it is a waterproof Mylar cone!!! 'Uvverwise' they can go awful soggy an' droopy 🤔 Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Neville, to be real, there is no such thing as a waterproof switch, stay with the switch in the hull, yes its a faff to keep lifting the cab but it does keep the water out. Cheat on the build thread??? your building it from basic components, take the pickies and post them, not like me who made a complete cods of the whole thing, still cant get my photos on the blog!!!! Mark
Thank you again Mark. I was thinking of trying to set up a waterproof switch accessible above deck. Thought it would be easier when at the 'quayside'. When some of the other bits arrive I will be in a position to start 'laying out' and looking at the balance. I will be following advice received here, but will keep asking questions....... Some bits will not be here until second week in October! Still plenty to do though. Have started to keep bits in boxes as you suggested. Really grateful for all the help. Have taken some images and will start the 'build thread' but seems a bit of a cheat as it is already built............. Cheers to all. NPJ
I'd go with Eze kote to seal first. It's water based so easy to clean up after, it's waterproof when dry, fuel proof and easy to sand. I've recently used it to re seal a diagonal planked hull I built 30 years ago and it's like new. You can then apply whatever type of paint to finish
Hi Scotty Welcome to the site. Just had a look on the web about Sanson Tugboat see pic. As you intend to allow the planking to show I suggest you use G4 Pond Sealer (Bondaglass Product) on your hull after you have sanded smooth to shape. You can also use on the inside. It's a polyurethane type so can be easily brush applied in thin coats and sets rock hard as well as being totally waterproof. You can overpaint if you carefully roughen the surface with wet and dry paper. Once the colour is dry and any decals applied you can apply a final coat of G4 over the whole hull and it will be protected against the odd knock etc. As Doug says acrylic is easy and pleasant to use for the upper works and can be sealed with acrylic clear lacquer, I find silk works best on a scale model. Sounds like an interesting project is it a kit? If you start a build blog we can watch your progress and you will be able to ask for help and advice as the build progresses. Please keep us posted on progress. Enjoy the build Dave
Hi Neil, your Dad's dead right! I've come to wonder how the heck I ever found time to go to work😉 important is to know just what you want to do with your time long before you retire - and then DO IT! Like wot i am now 😁 Yep, the cosmetics are to tidy up around all the hull and bulkhead breakthroughs and blend them in to the underlying structure. With special attention to ensuring that all hull breakthroughs (prop shaft / rudder shaft etc) are thoroughly waterproofed!! Good sealing on bulkhead breakthroughs is just(!) for 'Damage Control' to limit the spread of ingressive water in case summat nasty happens🤔 Cheers Doug 😎
What a shame. It looks such a lovely location for a model boat club. There must be some cash somewhere in the system which could just repair the pond and waterproof it. If there is a "current" club, maybe they could approach a local business to help with finances as a sponsorship. Heres hoping for a positive future. Best wishes, Dave W 😊