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>> Home > Tags > roof

roof
roof
Sweet Sue by sandkb Admiral   Posted: 1 day ago
Yes, I think that I've got it sorted now. The proof will be in the pudding when I post the next one. Thanks for your comment.

HMS Erebus by RNinMunich Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 day ago
Good clue! - extract from manual re set-up "1. Set throttle trim to neutral and turn on the transmitter. 2. Press the ESC on/off button. The LEDs will light, one green, one red. 3. Wait 3 seconds, the LEDs will change to blue. Your ESC is now set. 4. The ESC has an automatic LiPo cut-off. One flashing red LED means your battery is low and the cut-off has activated." Note point 4 !! Are you using LiPo or NiMH? Also- "Problem: Model runs properly, then motor goes dead. ➤ The built-in thermal protection may be automatically shutting down the ESC due to overheating conditions. Check for binding drivetrain, bad motor or incorrect gear ratio. Adjust gear mesh, replace motor or change gear ratio. Allow the ESC to cool and try again." ESC seems to be mostly used in buggies - above is extract from the Duratrax Evader EXT2.4 manual. Thus, assuming direct drive, 'changing gear ratio' for us means change the prop! May also have been the cause of the blue ESC problems? Which version of the Sprint? There are Sprint DTXM1200, Sprint 2 DTXM1205, and Sprint Waterproof DTXM1220. All with slightly different specs and motor requirements; brushed / brushless. So what is your setup, End to End; battery to prop?

Vosper 46" RAF Crash Tender Kit plus by justintime2001 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
Vosper 46 RAF Crash Tender Kit plus 95% of the items required to complete the model. Brand new kit, motor, prop shaft, batteries, controller, glue’s etc. Unfortunately due to an unforeseen illness It’s looking like I will not be able to start the build so if anyone would be interested in buying the lot at a discounted price please message me? I could travel up to 100 miles from DE15 to deliver or meet to complete a deal if anyone is interested? Thanks, Ian. Courier may be possible at cost. WHATS INCLUDED: The Vosper 46 RAF Crash Tender Kit Boat ESC Programming Card 90A Boat ESC 4A SBEC 11.1V 5000mAh 35C continuous discharge lipo battery x 2 Tornado Thumper V2 4260/06 500KV - Brushless Outrunner RC Motor Canopy Glue Formula 560 Prop Shaft - 13" Maxidrive ( 8mm Tube/5mm Inner ) Universal Joint Propeller Propshaft Oiler Clamp Kit XL Brass Rudder Waterproof Toggle Switch Propshaft Grease ZAP Z Poxy Dual Power iMAX B6 AC Lipo NiMh RC Battery Balance Charger/Discharger Woven Glass Twill 100g 1m Wide x 3mtrs 30 Amp Inline Mini Blade Fuse Holder & Fuse (Splashproof) Flexible Silicone Wire Cable 14AWG Red & Black 5 Pairs XT-60 Male Female Lipo Battery Connectors Plugs I believe this is an amazing buy at £295

Fantastic Plastic by sonar Commander   Posted: 7 days ago
So I have been doing some paint priming and still messing about with the outboard.. It now has the rudder dry fitted and it will not be seen above the waterline.. Most of the shaping is done now And I have cut out for access hatches to both to fit and get to the servo. The hatches I have got are semi waterproof and come off of some wet wipes. Now all the shapes are about right I will just carry on with a little more. And start looking about for the foam for the sponsons and some paints. This I am sure is going to be very light so with the electrics as low in the hull as possible and the foam tubes I have no Idea how much little ballast I will get away with...

First post... by BOATSHED Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 10 days ago
I don't know if it help you but this is a very good glue. You don't have to mix it like epoxy glue's. It is waterproof I was recommended it for a boat build and found it to be fine. I have used all sorts in the past dating back to the 60's. Cascamite, epoxy, even with my dad as a child we used the good old fashion smelly glue bead's. I still use them here and there. But we all have different idea's. Hope this helps.

Glue guns by Haverlock Admiral   Posted: 11 days ago
I have used them and still do on occasions in my experience I would never trust a joint made with one that has to stand any stress. If you just want to stick something decorative down its ok. If on the other hand you need to be sure the joint will hold use something else. The more porous the item to be glued the better hot glue will hold it. Yes the glue joint is waterproof BUT its perfectly possible for water to get under ( capillary action) a joint on a smooth surface and cause a joint to fail. By now you have probably gathered I am not a fan. Oh and if you do use one watch out the glue is hot enough to cause a burn and it sticks to skin fine.

Glue guns by Tall Paul Lieutenant   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi folks, Any one had experience of using glue guns ... Are they OK for glueing wood, plastic and metal to same and to each different material ... Are joints water proof ? Thanks.

Fantastic Plastic by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
I hate wood! cant work with it, its always a disaster😱 Plastic for me, cuts easy, glues easy, cheap, pretty much paint ready, light. I refurbished my fireboat with it, and did the PCF build with it, also, our models get wet, and its waterproof, !😊

The radio aerial & handrails. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Only the aerial base is supplied in the set of white metal fittings so it needs a rod added to complete it. First I bored out a hole through the base using a 2mm bit in a pin drill and then I used a short length of 2mm brass rod for the aerial. This rod was tapped with a 2mm thread and a nut filed to a round profile used as an end stop on the thread. I left sufficient thread below the base for fixing through the tapered aerial base, cabin roof and the reinforcing piece on the underside of the wheelhouse roof. The upper end of the rod was fitted with a hand turned knob as a finishing piece and for safety and the piece was sprayed with etch primer and two coats of white gloss. Finally I tapped a 2mm thread into a small piece of brass which was glued to the underside of the roof for the piece to screw into. The handrail bases were bought on-line from Polly Model Engineering and are 3½" gauge stanchions, normally used on steam locomotives, along with some 3/32" stainless steel rod and 8BA fixing nuts and washers. The fitting of these was quite straightforward but the two rails on the wheelhouse roof need to be bent to follow the roof curvature. The rods are fixed into the stanchions with a drop of thin superglue.

The davit. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
The davit needs some modification to attach it to the boat and some extra bits to improve it’s looks so the first thing to do was file off the casting marks and fill some of the hollows in the white metal surface. The false winch block part of the casting was removed from the upper end and a slot cut into the casting to take the hook of a brass tackle block which was secured with a brass hinge pin. A couple of plasticard cheeks were then added to the sides of the winch mechanism and a crank handle added too. The most difficult part was devising a means to attach the davit to the cabin wall that would allow it to swivel out over the deck from it’s ‘parked’ position. This also had to be easily removable so that the centre deck can be removed for access to the motor compartment. First the davit attachment points were modified by filing a deeper recess into the casting and the tabs drilled with a 2mm bit for the hinge bolts. I used the earth pin from a mains plug filed down to fit into the casting recess to act as a hinge block, the ends were drilled and tapped with a 2mm thread for the hinge pin bolts. The hinge block was then drilled and tapped to take a 3mm fixing stud and also a plain 2mm locating pin and then mounted on a plasticard mount and spacer to give the davit clearance to swing out and clear the cut-out in the engine room roof. The ‘foot’ of the davit was also modified from square to semi-circular to clear the cabin wall as it rotates. The whole assembly was etch primed and brush painted in ‘gun metal’ grey. Finally a lifting hook and rope was attached to the winch mechanism. The cabin wall was drilled with a locating pin hole and another for the 3mm fixing stud, the attachment is by a wing nut to allow quick and easy removal and re-fitting when required. The finished davit now looks a million times better and is also partially functional 😁. The build is nearing completion now and I hope that you are enjoying reading my blog as much as I am writing it, please let me know if it's getting boring though, all comments welcome...good or bad 😜.

stripping hull for repair and repaint by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
If it's old chances are it has oil based paints and will need lots of elbow grease, paint strippers and if it's anything like my Sea Queen some careful use of a hot air stripper to get the final residue out of the wood. I did start with Flash oven cleaner but changed to Nitromors and a scraper. It will be a ply hull and if it had an ic engine fitted you will need to strip out much of the inside to get rid of any diesel impregnated wood. I would also consider replacing the prop shaft and re-positioning to a less acute angle as you will not need the height in the boat that an ic required. IC used prop shafts often have little or no bearing left and can also be badly bent or twisted. Eze-Kote was very popular to protect the engine bay in a model plane and I still have a bottle bought some 20 years ago. It will protect the wood but I suspect you will need some form of tissue or cloth to make the hull waterproof. Others seem to prefer this to lay-up resin but I have not seen any pictures posted to prove its suitability. Good luck and perhaps you will consider a build blog so others can see how you progress? Dave

Fiberglassing by Delboy Apprentice   Posted: 22 days ago
I find Eze-Kote from Deluxe materials a much better material to work with than epoxy or polyester. It's a water-based resin which provides a waterproof and fuel-proof finish. you may need three or four coats but that's not a chore as it's easy to apply, there's no wastage as the pot never 'goes-off' and it's dry to a paint-able surface in half an hour. You clean up with water as well.

Fiberglassing by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi chugalone 100 Welcome to the site. You can fibreglass with different types of resin and cloth. If you are making and casting a fibreglass hull use fibreglass matting but to cover a hull lightweight fibreglass cloth is best. This is the type shown in the suggested video. Resin can be epoxy or polyester based but the latter is generally cheaper and in my opinion is easier to use and doesn't require thinning with alcohol. It is sold as layup resin and is supplied with hardener. Do follow the instructions re quantity of each part and mix thoroughly. If you are using epoxy Iso Propyl Alcohol is the type to use and is clear. The video shows using a brush to apply the resin and whilst this is OK it will give a very thick and heavy coating. I use the brush to apply and then a credit card sized piece of plasticard to spread the resin over and into the surface of the cloth resulting in an almost opaque finish with the weave showing through. You do need to have a good surface to work with as any imperfections will show when the resin hardens. Once dry give a light sanding all over to remove any imperfections and fill any holes with car body filler and sand smooth. I then apply a very thin top coat of the resin using a brush. When dry use wet and dry to sand and if necessary apply further thin coats until you have the finish you require. I have a local supplier and if you visit the site http://www.resin-supplies.co.u k/product.htm all the resins/cloths etc are listed. Using Google should bring up a local supplier. you do need to follow the safety instructions to protect yourself and wear appropriate protection for your hands, eyes and breathing, it is also best to apply in a well ventilated area and not on a cold day. The end result will be well worth the effort to keep your tug waterproof. You could also paint the resin over thye inside of the hull to protect the wood from any water that doeos find its way inside. Dave

The deck anti-slip finish. by canabus Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Robbob A serious cut of frame 2 and CF2 would be required. I cut out a section of frame 2, but, not CF2 at this point as I had no wheel house pics. I have download yours, thank you. Sorry about the pics, but, I thought as I live in Tasmania they would be the right way up for you living in Britain.(HA. HA!!). The later kits did not have the full plan with them, but, the original builder still had the plans and frame outlines which he traced out before starting the boat. I borrowed the plans, etc. and have a paper and PDF copy. I have the roof held down by double 10mm magnets, also the roof hatch is a working one. Canabus

Small plastic joinery glue by Hybrid Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
If you have any plastic that needs glueing and waterproof and only has a small contact point the stufff to use is something called plexsis acrylic comes in a 2part compound and mixed in the nosel as it is squeeze out. It's the best thing out there. I build super yachts for 20 years now for the rich and famous and we use a lot of it on boats that are in the 20 to 30 million prise range . There are some different types rock hard. To ones with a bit of flexibility all dry with in 10 to 15 mins thanks for reading and I do hope this will help people with problems ..... master b Wright