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>> Home > Tags > roof

roof
roof
Thames sailing barge Capricorn by tomarack Commander   Posted: 6 days ago
I tried attaching to the roof of the cabin MD80 camera with a clip. In practice, the camera was unreliable. That's why I bought a small and reliable sports camera that I placed in front of mizzenmast.The camera has a scanning angle of 120 °.Looks OK. (Tested) The camera can be easily attached by sliding it to the mount (wooden cube)on the roof of the aft cabin.

Painting starts-radio gear in! by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
This day has seen the midnight blue airbrushed on followed by a thin coat of lacquer to give the roundel and trimline a good surface to stick too. Numbers to go on when they arrive from eBay. Having given the inside of the hull 2 coats of resin to waterproof it, I’ve now installed all The electronics, just the rudder pushrod to make and add. Next few days will see little progress as starting nights tonight!

Aeronaut Pilot by Skipper44 Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
In side the cab, just finished the roof and primered the whole thing

Happy Hunter by spitfiresooty Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 14 days ago
hi -the hull only had these two motors and gearboxes in .I have greased the gearboxes cleaned the motors and soldered the wires on .The casings of the motors were rusty and have just been painted with a rust killer type paint..There is a bow thruster fitted with no motor but this locks up after about half a turn of the drive shaft -looks like I will need to replace this.I have bought 2 Chinese speed controllers with max current rating of 250amps ( waterproof type) I have used these before and seem ok but my experience is limited..The intention was to drive the motors separately on 2 channels

Fairey Marine by rolfman2000 Admiral   Posted: 16 days ago
I dont think anyone actually prints ready to use. So just put it in Google, then print it out and stick it on. Don't forget to laquer over the top to waterproof it. Sorry, but thats the best i can do. Best wishes, Dave W 😊

Predator (Aeromarine Laminates USA) by bilzin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 24 days ago
Aeromarine Laminates Predator 21 hull with HK 2630kv brushless outboard and Turnigy 120a w/c esc. Waterproof metal geared Servo and will have 4-6s lipo when completed.

Electronics Down Below (5) by NPJ Captain   Posted: 26 days ago
This time I will try to remember to put in the ‘source’ information on the bits and pieces I use........... In the most recent piece I should have included exciters/transducers are Dayton Audio DAEX 25VT -4, 4 Ohms – 20 Watt pair, obtained from Sound Imports Netherlands and very quickly as well. The sound unit is a Mtroniks Digisound 5M diesel sound, available all over the place. Now to look at where I am at. Exciters are in place as high up the Hull as possible, but remembering the Deck level. Used the adhesive pads as supplied after wiping that part of the Hull with Meths and Silicone adhesive to keep in place as well as using the wiring tidies from Modelsport Ltd., for the cabling. (Pic 1+2) Before I start the motor and controller wiring I changed the platform ‘up front’ (pic3) with a piece of thin ply which I have given a couple of coats of varnish to waterproof. Then I thought to myself “why am I waterproofing this when, if it gets that wet, it will have gone to the bottom and be useless anyway”! (Pics 4) However, the platform gives a little more choice in terms of layout of other components and my plan for them is not really settled yet. I am concerned about the stern and possible swamping, but it currently seems the best place for the upgraded battery. (Pic5 ) Whilst talking batteries, I have gone for a separate battery supply for the receiver and hope to use the Bec supply for running other less critical items. Also the fitting of the battery in the stern bay drew my attention to the rudder servo for a couple of reasons. First is I am still considering increasing the size of the rudders and I am assuming that will increase the strain on the servo. The servo supplied is a standard issue and not water resistant so I have gone for an upgrade as shown(Pic6) That gives torque increase of 17Kg/cm over the Hobby Engine S1040C and has metal gears, metal control arm and waterproof for 20grams extra weight. Second is the closeness to the new battery position. So I was going to alter the servo arm setup anyway and the new metal arm suits this well. Maybe my ‘tutors’ will consider all this to be a little ‘over the top’ but I do so enjoy messing......................... New Servo DS 3218 by AYANI from Amazon. (Pics 6/7 ) Following that distraction, back to the front end and the Motor/Mixer placing and wiring. Now a little time ago I drew a plan to see what could go where and it came out that most of the ‘bits’ would go in the front bay with motors to be wired once power was brought forward, followed by the Esc/Mixer. (Pic 8) At that time I bought a P94 dual esc/mixer from Action Electronics and got the 20 amp version to be on the safe side................. My ‘guardians’ did point out this was ‘over-kill’ but I had already got it. Now, when placing the unit on the mounting board I found that the heatsinks made it too high to fit in the Hull! So being a spoilt brat only child I ordered the 10 amp version and as usual it came very quickly from up here in Bangor. ( Will keep the other one for the next project............Happy Hunter??) Unboxed it and it looked just the same, heatsinks and all. (Pic 9/10 ) So at that moment there was a bit of a set-back so I rang Component Shop at Bangor, they said “take the heat sinks off and you have a P94 lite”! Such a simple answer and such a nice chap. (Pic 11 ) Now a quick 'measure up' before I have a glass of wine (Pic 12) and does it all fit...? Well it appears to at the moment! (Pic 13) Next time really going to screw down the components under the forward hatch and wire it up. NPJ

Ellesmere Port model boat lake by epmbcmember Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 27 days ago
To answer NJP's question we can get a car within 30 feet of the temporary pond, less if you drive on the grass, the pool is about 12" deep. The pool has now been taken down for the winter but we have been asked to put a larger one up next year. There are toilets there although not 5 star, but these will be refurbished when there is cash available. The site is the Hooton Park Trust next to the old airfield. At the moment they are refurbishing the last hanger with a new Belfast truss roof. They do have a website and they are on facebook. You can also read about it if you type in RAF Hooton Park Airfield, which was opened in 1917 and closed in the 1950's I think. At one stage it was Liverpool Airport before Speke was opened.

Palaform Griffon 600 - Police by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
I have just bought the Palaform Griffon 600 which arrived last week. I am considering 2 things: 1. Either copy all the depron parts onto 2mm light/medium balsa adding lightning holes to reduce the extra weight. This would make a far stronger model for not too much added weight. The instructions call for adding extra batteries to increase weight if using outdoors anyway. 2. second option would be to replace some parts with balsa, then glass cloth top deck depron, bottom of hull depron and either replace cabin sides/roof with a sandwich of 1mm balsa/1mm ply or glass cloth depron. In both options, the prop tunnel will be built as per kit. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated.

Motor problem by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Richard, that lead acid is way too big and heavy. I Remember going on hols as a kid, car was loaded up, all family, roofrack, deck chairs, tent and so on, and Dads old Moggie Traveller would barely climb the Welsh hills! Same here, its just dead weight, ideal for a tug etc, no speed required, and ballast needed. This boat wasn't any slouch in its day, As Havelock says, it was originally built as a ic powered model so could stand being heavy. To achieve balance, its a matter of moving things around, not adding, so just move things forward, you will be surprised how the weight increases once you start adding Deck clutter, fittings and so on. Lightweight, is good. Your comment, stood up in the water at half throttle isn't going fast, its just bad weight displacement causing the bow tyo be too high. That setup would never have been that fast, the motor/battery combo will never cause a heavy ply boat to be going that fast its standing on end Couple of things to consider. Your nimhs, how many times have these been cycled, and what sort of charger are you using? A reasonable charger will give the information, if I know what you are using, Ill advise accordingly as you might not be getting the best from these batteries what prop are you on Think of an rc plane (if you fly them its easier) If the cog is too far back, the nose is pitching up, and its almost impossible to control, it almost porpoises in the air, and is very bad. COG is vital on a rc plane, nose heavy is better, only because its more controllable. COG is equally important with a boat, but harder to see the implications, the hull will give us false info, such as if the bow is up its on the plane, no, not necessarily, its not planing due to speed, its just out of balance. Shifting the weight radically will let you see this, sorry for the ramble, Wish you where closer to me I would love to help hands on👍 Ive tried to find a suitable video of my Huntman to display what I'm rambling on about. This video is poor quality, but it displays that boat moving very fast (25mph with on board data logger) but look how flat it is, its planning, as the forward 1/3 of the hull is out of the water, but its not standing on its tail, this is because its balanced. You boat is pretty similar in design to this so whilst you wont want to go this fast, the picture should look the same. This Huntsman weighs 6kg with batteries (lipos, you will NEVER get a nimh or lead acid to do this) and is 4 foot long, so quite a heavy old girl first constructed as an IC model in the early 70's. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5-YmmElIfk&t=34s and here is a picture of my 3 foot aerokits fireboat, bow up, is it planing, no, its way out of balance, it wasnt actaully going that fast Hope that helps Paul

An experiment with foam board by hecrowell Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
I am going to try an experiment with foam board similar to a build that I ran across on the internet. It consists of making the keel and bulkheads with 1/4" foam board or a double thickness if it is thinner. The board that I have will require two thicknesses. If all else fails, it will proof my plans that they are readonably accurate. The inner gunwales and the sheer clamps will be clear pine. Trace the outline of the part, cut out and stick with adhesive spray onto foamboard and cut out. Kere is the partial keel which I labelled "K1". Will post pictures as I progress.

Twin motor control problem by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I've breezed through this so apologies if I missed something. There is no way the boat will magically go into reverse when transporting from the bench to the water. If it works on the bench, it will work in the water, out of interest, how do you know its going the right way on the bench? you might have the props on the wrong way around if directional, so its actually going in reverse on the bench. You can run multiple motors with one spectrum receiver, I have done it several times, with boats and planes, so its not that. Your later posts suggest more is amiss here, it could be a signal issue, as you say it sometimes works? Have you done a range test? If you have not, This needs to be the very next job you do. Not knowing specificallky what tx you have, eg the dx6i has a built in range test, and needs to be done from all angles, and should work at least 20 metres from the boat. This needs to be a must on all models. I do this every time I sail or fly, every time, I don't want to lose a model due to signal loss, which depending on the failsafe being set, can result in full throttle and loss of control, that's another topic I suppose! Mtrokiks are pretty much bullet proof, forget those Chinese blue things, the issue isn't the escs, its the set up. Get the mixer out, use a "y" lead between the receiver leads, disconnect both red wires, and use a separate receiver 6v feed into the receiver, plug in the esc's, watch the lights to see if they set ok (assuming you have throttle range set them separate first), then range check, nw throttle on the bench, one at a time, with a tissue behind the prop to ensure they are going the correct way, belive me when I say its an easy mistake to make thinking a twin set up has both props with the correct direction when one isn't!😊 I see you are at Bury, thats a big well established club, has anybody there taken a look for you, seeing it in action is so much easier than over a keyboard! If you fancy a trip to the Wirral Ill gladly sort it for you Paul

Racing Sloop (no name yet) by Krampus Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Thank you, Bruce! I normally build boats using Styrene sheets since I don't like to get into the epoxy business. I know others work a different procedure by using clear lacquer and are able to waterproof and give that crystal-like looking appearance. Any ideas you or any other shipmates may offer to this humble swabbie?

Progress on the hull - At Last! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
After many distractions and accumulating 'stuff' to go in and on the boat I finally got around to tidying up the hull this week. After flattening with 180 / 240 wet and dry I sealed with Ezekote flattened again then sprayed with a professional grade primer / filler from the auto branch. As usual this showed up all the pits so I filled them with Revell Plasto and primed again. After going round this loop a few times I was (reasonably) happy and flattened with 600 W&D. Then sprayed on Royal Blue from a giant rattle can, also from the auto pro market. Flattened off with 1200 W&D between coats. I have Tamiya Royal Blue acrylic for my air brush as well but couldn't be bothered to set up the compressor🤔 Can worked pretty well though. 👍 Last pic shows the 'Before'! Will leave the final finishing, nameplate and lacquer coat until I have finished the internal fitting out and the cabin. Have decided to plank the cockpit with mahogany😲 just ordered from Krick! First attempt at planking - Wish me luck! I like the blue hull so much I think I will just mark the waterline with a red (or white?) boot topping stripe. Comments welcome. Cabin will be white with a blue roof. Now to continue with the new prop shaft, old one is showing signs of wear at both ends and rust at the wet end 🤔 Anyway it's got an imperial thread which is useless when all my brass props are metric. More soon, I hope 😉 Cheers Doug 😎

Denatured Alcohol by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Doug, Going bang was all about my worry. More bang for your bucks???? would hate to loose you for the forum just to see you disappearing though the hole were your roof used to be!!!! PS, wonder if any of the security services have clocked our mixture discussion's??? might be a stern knock on the door soon!!! Regards Mark. (Free for now!!!!)