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>> Home > Tags > roof

roof
roof
RAF fIRE TENDER MAST DETAILS ?? by colinhubbard Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Here is my version. PM me if you want this and i'll send pictures and pdf with material list and detailed build instructions1/16th scale Fireboat Mast. MATERIALS LIST. Item A:- 1.6 Brass rod 45mm long. Item B:- 5mm dia brass Finial. (from dolls house shop) Item C:- 3mm Brass tube 47mm long. Item D:- 1.6mm x 4mm brass strip 64mm long. Item E:- 2 Off 3mm brass tube 68mm long. Method of build. Start by drilling Item B 1.6mm , then drill bottom 3.1mm x 2mm deep. Solder Items A,B, and C, together to form mast top. Then drill through Item B 90 degrees to mast with 1.2mmm drill for rigging line to pass through. Item D then needs shaping, by tapering on one edge only. 2mm at end to full 4mm x 26mm from end. Do this to both sides. (see sketch). Now drill centre 3.1mm and each end 1.2mm at 3mm from ends. Item E. Flatten one end to 10mm and opposite end to 8mm. Bend 10mm end to 120 degrees. Bend 8mm end to 150 degrees. Now trim 10mm end back to 5mm. Carefully radius 8mm end and then drill 2.2mm at 3mm from end. Now solder 2 x Items E to item D and locate mast top into centre hole and solder in place. The completed mast is held in place by two angle brackets which I slotted through cabin roof and glued with epoxy. These brackets need to be drilled and tapped m2. For the fixing screws 3mm from the top edge, then radius to smarten up.

Fairplay X - Plastic Magic! :-) by saintsalvio Commander   Posted: 17 days ago
A GRANDE RICHIESTA! as you asked me how I did it! It is very simple! ehm not so much but: you take the lobster (minipig submarine u16 new) take out delicately the pincers (the two motors) paying attention to isolate the cables for each motors, than take away from the body the fruit (the intere block including internal battery, receiver and jack to charge) than I substitued the two motor pillars of the original fairplay kit with the two mini sub pillars very similar in sembiance and proportions, painted than reconnect the cables of the two motors with tiny cable joint to the "fruit" fixed on the exact balanced centre of the ship hull (you can see by the photos: it is right between the two main internal hollow septs). You can use the front submarine lights to enlight the fairplay lower cabins. Take care it is a nonconventional very difficult and nerve raking work but with a little help (from my friends? Noo nobody here) from the lady luck instead you can obtain the result of a mad - merely responding to command - foolish steering - lovable tugboat. hope this pics can help (Excuse me but I sealed the fruit before fixing to the hull with a lot of electric tape and sealing paint to waterproof it! So I haven't images of it naked but it is a quite simple structure! 😱 P.S. Excuse for my neapolitan-deformed english I can't do better!

Slowly does it. by fid2b Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
I would tend to agree! The more it pushes forward the better of course. But I largely copied my 36" fireboat and to get the prop dia options up to about 50mm it needs quite a angle. I didn't want to complicate the drive line either as my main interest was in forming the hull, just to see if I could really. I suppose the proof will be in the sailing!

3D printing by Midlife306 Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
I think full body armour & a stab proof vest will be needed🤕

More work on the Solent Lifeboat by Mataroa Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
HI heres some pics the work I was doing on the superstructure i replace the roof on the superstructure and all so i replace the windows on the wheelhouse .Theres a lot of work still to be done on the superstructure.

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by Westquay Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
John, as it has glass cloth on the inside anyway it will be strong enough and so Dave's clever polyurethane varnish will be ideal on the outside as a waterproof skin, the glass cloth being the dimensional stabiliser on the inside. Looks like we've cracked it for you (Ooh, pun NOT intended!) I haven't used that stuff, but I HAVE heard excellent reviews of it and that schooner looks very tasty. Martin

Glue by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi, for my U26 I had to glue a silicon rubber gasket all the way round the equipment space to ensure a watertight seal with the perspex tween-deck.Total length ca 1m +. I used a waterproof gel CA glue which allows some adjustment time. Worked great. I still have have the sub! 😊😎

Futaba antenna by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Hugh, strip both ends. Twist the wires around each other and solder. Cover the joint with heat shrink sleeving. I cut the antenna of all my receiver and fit a small 2mm plug and socket so I can take the RX out without destroying half the ship. This was essential with my U Boat as the antenna is led out of the pressure hull through a waterproofed (epoxy sealed) hole in the bow. Topside the remaining wire was fitted with another plug an socket, so I could remove the whole sea-deck for servicing, and stretched over the conning tower and down to the after deck just like the real ones. Plus or minus a cm or so won't make much difference. Wavelength at 27MHz is about 11 metres and at 40MHz about 7.5m. So our antennas are working at about 1/16th of the wavelength. This is normally compensated (a bit!) inside the RX with a coil which increases the effective length that the RX input sees. My first boss always told me "RF is a black art!" 😉 Maybe if you try to beat the physics, but it took me around the world! Cheers Doug 😎

The mast & rigging. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
I had previously adapted the mast with lighting and fixing studs and so it’s ready to be fitted to the wheelhouse roof, but I decided to add some rigging detail in the process. Along with some other items, I had previously bought some threaded brass ’eyes’ and wooden rigging blocks by mail order from RB models in Poland. Very good prices and remarkably quick delivery from overseas. http://www.rbmodel.com I drilled the horizontal bar of the mast to take a couple of small brass eyes, and bent the lower part of the exposed thread back at an angle, onto these I fitted some wooden rigging blocks with brass sheaves which I had previously stained mahogany and lacquered. Another slightly larger eye was fitted to the centre of the mast and another to the wheelhouse roof for the forward stay rope, I used some thin white elasticated thread that I found in my local Hobbycraft store for all the rigging. The stay rope end were finished with small brass hooks formed from some thin brass wire and secured with some small diameter heat shrink tubing, I think this makes for a much neater look than just tied knots. The top rigging ropes were made in the same way. The completed mast was then bolted down through the wheelhouse roof on the threaded studs and the two lighting wires passed through separate holes in the roof. This should allow me to detach the mast and fold it down for transport if necessary. The lower end of the ropes from the rigging blocks were formed into a loop with a spot of superglue to fix them and then some small white heat shrink tube used to cover the joints. The loops fit neatly over the cleats on the cabin roof so that they can easily be released. I’m hoping that being elasticated all the rigging will stay taut and remain presentable 😁 I must remember to order some ensigns flags from 'Mike Alsop Scale Flags' for a finishing feature as recommended by pmdevlin in an earlier blog post 👍

Using old motors by Westquay Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Doug, that looks lovely. I can't guarantee the performance would be anything but sedate with the Target, but that kind of boat in the real world would rarely be seen exceeding about 10 knots if that. It's essentially a river boat. I would be inclined to keep with the scheme it has as it's nicely period with the off white. Maybe line the deck with a Rotring a la period too and veneer the coach house sides. I certainly wouldn't strip it as there'll be joints and filler and boring old plywood underneath. No, paint is the Aerokits look for sure Delamination needs only epoxy, either the repair and build stuff or the liquid a la West, SP, etc.. slide a knife in the delamination and convince some epoxy in, then lightly clamp it twixt layers of greaseproof paper (when the GF's out) or plastic bag or similar. I use Plastikard, but I was given a box of lasered off cuts by Ivan at the Vintage Boat Company. He's now sold out to SLEC who are even nearer where I live! Anyway I have plasticard in three thicknesses to waste. If you stroke the surface with a scriber, it will make a weird hollow noise if delaminated. If it is, make a cut, persuade the edges up and insinuate some epoxy into the crack you've made. Ain't nuttn. you can't repair. You should have seen the window frames in my house when I sold it. A festival of epoxy, firewood and P38 car filler. Surveyor passed it with barely a look. Reallygood paint saved the day. Stupid waster! 400 quid Mr. Client, chching! As for the extra gizmos, I'd ditch them to save weight and complexity. You might find a 3 blade prop works better, but I'm no expert there. Finally instead of "this belongs to", I'd simply name her Jessica, in a nice script. I hope that helps. Cheers, Martin

Using old motors by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Wow! A real collector 👍 Now that I have a Watt-meter I shall run some tests on my Target (after restoration!), test the reversing circuit and put it back in my Sea Scout where it belongs. The Sea Scout looks a bit sad after 25 years on the shelf. 🤔 She also has the commonly reported problem of de-lamination on the transom, also the Cabin roof curls at the edges. Any tips how to repair and cure this are very welcome. I'm thinking of stripping and varnishing her. What do you recommend? The grey lump half hidden in the cockpit is a siren, the servo with 2 micro switches is for this and the nav lights. Second servo is to swivel a water jet nozzle, pump is the black conglomerate at the rear of the engine compartment. A horrible piston pump but it worked,enough to surprise small boys who got too close 😉 Rudder servo on it's side, like everyone else has had to do. Current motor Decaperm, performance Sedate 🤔 Cheers 😎

"Vanity" leaves the building board by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Wonderful wonderful wonderful 👍 Do you have a razor saw for for cutting an access hatch perhaps? I have an idea for 'hiding' the hatch and keeping it waterproof, have the same problem with access to the rudder on my Graf Spee. More tomorrow. Servus(!) Doug 😎

"Vanity" leaves the building board by Westquay Captain   Posted: 2 months ago
Just made my first dovetail corner joint on one of the decklights. Seemed to work out OK once I'd I'd got the shape of both parts in my head. Used the vice jaws as a guide and a piercing saw to cut the joints. My Aliphatic glue had dried up, so I had to use PVA, so no pics till tomorrow in the daylight, In 1/16th scale the decklight over the main saloon (see above picture) is 4ft. x 2ft-6in....3"x 1.875". Nowhere near big enough to fiddle in my sail winch system so I think she may have to be a rudder only job. No sweat really. I had hours of good sailing with an old plastic 375, rudder only. Unless I can work out an invisible method of lifting a section of decking. AND keeping it waterproof! Martin

Waterproof glue by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Robbob, Thanks for the reply. If these are good enough for your build then they are certainly good enough for mine! Chris

Waterproof glue by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Chris. Like yours, my very first wooden boat was held together with Cascamite. I'm very happy to recommend Titebond 2, it's an aliphatic resin that's waterproof, dries very quickly and forms a very strong bond on wood to wood joints. I have used it extensively in the construction of my crash tender project. The other glue I have used is Z-poxy 30 minute epoxy resin, great for wood to metal and various other materials. I hope that is helpful. Rob.