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>> Home > Tags > rotation

rotation
delamination
donation
lindberg cc constellation
navigation
navigation light
notification updates
portland model power boat association
renovation
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contra rotating
rotation
Perkasa 49 inch by RNinMunich Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 days ago
Very tidy boat and nice Captain's POV 👍 Next step cam rotation? Limit switches or servo with travel extension ? After that telemetry with video back to base ?? Some sets have a good 5.8Gig back channel for this. I recently bought the Toshiba Sport camera, with a waterproof case, so I might try it on my 107cm 1:72 Type IIA U26 ! Plug in mount instead of the 88 on the foredeck. For rescue I have the Tug Southampton, bought RTR and modified slightly so I can at least push home. Not easy with long thin ships like my destroyer so thinking of a steel plate on the bow and a neodym magnet on the tugs winch 😎

Finished Sections and Top Stringer by RNinMunich Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 2 days ago
Looking good. 👍 Same construction method I used for my H Class destroyer. Appreciate the size problem, typical length to beam ratio of destroyers ca 9to1. Gives speed but affects stability. Where did I read quotes like "she rolls on wet grass"! I chose 1:72 for Hotspur giving 136x12cm to play with. Don't despair; I squeezed in 2x500 brushed plus switching for lights, 2 sound boards, loud speaker, smoke generator and rotation for radar and main guns. Sure you can get 2x385 motors, or small brushless in 😉 Keep the top weight down though, or with the Buckley's 8.4 to 1 length to beam ratio you might have a near heart attack on the first fast turn, like I did with Hotspur 🤔 Keep up the good work, look forward to the video .... Cheers Doug 😎

Installation by Trillium Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
Screw holes for holding the support beam in position were marked in the sponson supports and drilled. At this point the assembly could be installed permanently. - Removed the nut and washer from the centre of the master rod and attached the support beam to it; replaced and tightened the lock washer and nut. - Slid the wheel onto the shaft until the locating holes for the support beam lined up with the screw holes in the sponson supports and fitted the screws. - Final check of rotation on the shaft.(see video) - Tightened the wheel drive collar onto the paddle shaft. This was a 3/16” collar drilled for a short length of 1/16” brass rod, which was soldered in and then bent to fit into one of the drive holes near the centre of the inner side wheel. The video shows the motion for the starboard wheel. It has been operated under radio control, but even at its lowest speed it goes too fast unloaded to see the motion clearly. All that is required now is some liquid water to try it out and learn whether the objective has been achieved.

Handed props by Haverlock Admiral   Posted: 10 days ago
its a little safer to take props off and put a piece of masking tape over the ends of the prop shafts. That way you can check rotation directions and keep a full set of fingers ~laughs~

Making the searchlight. Part one. The metalwork. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
Having decided to make the searchlight a working feature I needed to make a sturdier base for it as the supplied white metal item is far too weak and not up to the job. This is another job for the man with the lathe......😜 I want the new piece to replicate the original as much as possible so I took measurements of the white metal part and produced a dimensional drawing which I e-mailed to my brother. A short while later the item arrived in the post with another as a spare in case I messed up the first! 😓 I annealed some ‘D’ profile brass rod and formed it to the dimensions of the original cradle and set this into a slot filed into the top of the turned searchlight base. Before silver soldering the cradle into place I spun the part in a drill and rounded off the base with some abrasive to a profile more like the original. I also filed flats at the cradle ends and drilled them, and the searchlight body, to accept some 2mm brass screws to join the two parts together. The base has a 2mm diameter hole bored through to accept the drive shaft from the servo and a very small grub screw secures the base onto this shaft. The 3 watt LED is already epoxy into the searchlight body but I will replace the wire with something thinner and bring it out through the back in some heat shrink tubing. I'm hoping that this will be flexible enough to allow free rotation of the searchlight.😊

San Pedro Pus Boat - Engine Room Fittings by tomarack Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi, sorely I can not put the wiring diagram here, so please look at my album on Rajce , where I placed the wiring diagram!!! > http://tomarack.rajce.idnes.cz /RC_model_Lulonga/ I do not think you got the wrong V-tail mixer, you just need it put to wiring and properly involve. Therefore, I do not use internal mix at transmitter, and even and cannot program it ( therefore, I chose a simple mixer - it performed only simple mixing of signals, in my case Ail and Throttle , no damned programming!!)   when connecting of engines because you have to program the transmitter to function properly. (Thr forward - backward) and canal -1 ("Ailerons" - adjust the direction of rotation so that when tilting the control stick left, right engine had more speed than the left engine, and vice versa) I have on Lulonga the rudder separately on channel 4 (on my model has a lousy efficiency), but it can be connected via a Y cable to output Ail, where one branch goes to the servo, the second branch to the V-tail mixer, or you can engage Mix, which lead the canal 1 Ail, a slave can 4 - Rudder - wants this just to try. Of course you can try a mix of programming of the transmitter, but I wanted first and foremost a simple electrical connection that works. Then, if you know how that works, then it is easier to try and programming of the transmitter. This I then used my second model, Thames sailing barge Capricorn > http://tomarack.rajce.idnes.cz /TSB_Capricorn/ At the end of this album I gave examples of wiring and mixes too. I made a simple table, and then tried what and how it works. But it is a control model sailboats. For your model table would look different. It depends on what type of transmitter you have. wishing success ! Tom

Fitting the wheelhouse roof panels by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
The three panels make up the wheelhouse roof and the outer two needed the heat gun treatment to curve them in two directions so a bit of patience is required here to get this right. When they are correctly shaped the mating edges of all three need a little chamfering, they also need to overlap the cabin walls by 1/8th of an inch. I cut out a hole in the centre panel to give me access to the bracket that hold the searchlight rotation servo in place. Before fitting the roof panels I added a couple of small blocks either side of the cabin formers directly beneath where the mast feet will be to reinforce the areas so that I can bolt down the mast legs on threaded studs and also to enable it's removal for storage if required. Once again I used a file and sanding block over the formers and cabin sides to profile them so that the panels sit flush on the framework. The outer panel on which the searchlight sits was also pierced to take the 2mm threaded stud will connects the servo to the searchlight base. I'll need to make and fit a circular wedge fillet on the roof to meet the searchlight base because of the curvature of the roof at that point. The undersides of the panels got a couple of coats of sanding sealer and a brushed coat of a black satin water based paint, being careful not to coat the areas where the glue lines will be. The rest of the interior of the cabin also got another coat of black paint. The centre panel was fitted first making sure that the hole was correctly aligned with the servo shaft position, when the glue had dried the two outer panels were glued and clamped. I fitted the sliding hatch rails on a couple of bearers and made a frame around the access hole for the hatch to fit onto. The other small hole at the front of the centre panel is for the navigation light wiring. Thankfully that's the end of the superstructure construction which was unnecessarily difficult due to the less than helpful instructions and drawings and poorly fitting parts. Some room for improvement here by the kit maker I think ❓ ..... Next episode coming to screen near you soon.... 😁

The searchlight, making it light up and turn. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
After a bit of head scratching I think I have a plan 😉 I bought a Turnigy mini servo, a servo tester and a battery pack from Hobbyking, and a 3w white LED and reflector from Maplins. The LED is mounted on quite a large heat sink and needed trimming down to fit inside the searchlight body, I checked all the time for continuity and that the conductive tracks on the heat-sink would not short to the metal body, I drilled a hole in the underside of the body for the wiring and epoxied the LED in place. I temporarily connected a dropper resistor and battery pack to the LED and ran it for a few minutes to test the heat gain which was negligible, clearly the metal I removed from the heat-sink is amply made up by the mass of the white metal body. The servo was temporarily fixed in place with a couple of screws so that I could test the rotation with the servo tester (at this time I didn't have any radio gear) . It works a treat ! 😀 The servo was then mounted within the WF3 windscreen former with the output spigot directly below the proposed searchlight position, a supporting structure and a retaining bar holds it in place as I don't intend to permanently fix it. I will cut an access hole in the cabin roof below the hatch to allow access to the bracket so that the servo can be replaced if required. I'll make a lens and protective grid later and also re-make the searchlight cradle and base in brass as the white metal one is just too flimsy and would bend and break in no time. Now I can get on with the rest of the cabin construction 😁

Kingfisher Plans by Haverlock Admiral   Posted: 3 months ago
You could add an extra piece BUT consider your prop will still be at risk. The speed of the prop is a vector addition of the rotational speed plus boat speed. Unless you intend to run at very high speed its probable the shaft will survive most collisions.

Propeller 101 by Haverlock Admiral   Posted: 3 months ago
Do not forget to specify right or left handed the thread is the same but the direction of rotation is different and please do remember to fit a locknut ( and use locktite) so your new prop doesn't join the rest of the lost bits on the bottom of the pond

DAMEN STAN 4207 by RHBaker Captain   Posted: 4 months ago
The twin rudders were made out of styrene strip and brass rod, which slide into brass sleeves in the hull. The rudder horn movement is severely restricted by the rear hull RIB well. The rudder posts are adjacent to the inner wall of the well precluding fitting a rudder horn that allows free rotation. To overcome this fitted the rudder horns facing out board from the rudder posts. The adjacent bulkhead had been recessed to allow the horn to swing freely into it. The rudder linkage rods were fed forward to a set of cranks and then linked together. The cranks were then joined to a servo with a short link. The intermediate cranks were introduced to allow free rudder horn movement. The RIB well can now be completed as the rudder mechanism works. I use the same Tx with various linked Rxs fitted to several models. To avoid confusion over control sense it is important to ensure all Tx movements remain the same. Thoughts currently are to control both the stabilizers and rudder servos with the same Tx lever. This means the linkage must allow one of the servos to be reversed, which in this case should be the rudder to retain consistency with other models. Unsure of the degree of stabilizer fin movement relative to the rudder so procured paired, and also mixing servo wiring harnesses to experiment. Each linkage has adjustment capability, so the results of sailing trails can be incorporated. As had now resolved the rudder movement issue decided the sterngate, which is behind the RIB well, could also be made operable. Perhaps one day will also make the RIB operate!

Micro servo as continuous motor by EAGLE Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 7 months ago
Hi Steve One thing l didn't mention is l use the trim on the channel to adjust the speed of the rotation. Dave

Sailing a straight line by Trillium Lieutenant   Posted: 8 months ago
Very soon after my last post I was offered two motors matching the specs given by Dave to try out, so I did. With the stbd ESC feeding the port motor: - Ahead rotation, servo on mark 1, Port .46A, 1450rpm; Stbd .4A, 1800 Rpm. -Astern rotation, servo on mark 1, Port .24A, 315rpm; Stbd .14A, not turning - Astern rotation, servo on mark 2, Port .54A, 1700rpm; Stbd, .28A, 1800 rpm With the stbd ESC feeding the stbd motor: - Ahead rotation, servo on mark 1, Port .38A, 1390 rpm; Stbd .34A, 1610 rpm - Astern rotation, servo on mark 1, Port .1A, not turning; Stbd .2A, 440 rpm - Astern rotation, servo on mark 2, Port .42A, 950 rpm; Stbd .32A, 2450 rpm Battery voltage 13.0V. So generally a better match between these motors in the ahead direction, than the 365/14's. Difficult to say, based on this data, if the motors are better running in one direction vs the other. With some trim adjustment on the control sticks I'll be able to obtain closely matching ahead speeds. I have also learnt that motors to the same spec are available from the USA via Ebay for US$8 each. I have used Banggood, but delivery of anything from China to Canada takes a minimum of 6 weeks.

Sailing a straight line by Trillium Lieutenant   Posted: 8 months ago
A scale model that mimics the behaviour of the prototype has to be a good thing, and that description certainly fits my model. But it's not so relaxing sailing this one. The props are 3-bladed 40mm dia. Current readings taken today are as follows: Stbd ESC feeding Port motor, and vice versa - Ahead rotation; servo tester set on mark 1: Port 0.62A, Stbd .54A - Astern rotation; servo tester set on mark 2: Port 0.7A, Stbd .4A Stbd ESC feeding Stbd motor, and port ESC port motor - Ahead rotation: servo tester set on mark 1: Port 0.5A, Stbd .42A - Astern rotation: servo tester set on mark 2: Port .42A, Stbd .54A Battery voltage was 12.6V. Since the port motor runs slower and generally draws more current than the starboard, all suggests that I should at least replace the port motor. But I am inclined based on the comments and this experience to replace both with the larger size. That may have to wait awhile since suppliers with good stocks of motors are on your side of the pond, and we have a threatened strike by Canada Post. Roy

Sailing a straight line by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 months ago
Hi Roy You clearly have two motors that are not equal. The fact that the port motor requires a higher voltage to start confirms this. Also the fwd and reverse rotation suggest the motors are happier running in one direction. As Mark says matching motors can become expensive as they are mass produced to a particular spec which may not meet your particular requirements. You could try free running the motors for a long period (15 mins at slow revs) in both directions to see if this helps bed in the bushes. If you run one in the forward direction of the stb prop and the other in the forward direction of the port prop they may become more matched. Problem is they may then not be as matched in reverse but it should help your forward straight running. If you cannot match the motors you have two options; use two left or right handed props;or use a gear on one motor to reverse the rotation so both motors run in the same direction. Dave