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>> Home > Tags > rotation

rotation
delamination
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lindberg cc constellation
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navigation light
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contra rotating
rotation
Wiring in a rx, an ESC and a battery (pack) by Haverlock Admiral   Posted: 7 days ago
first take a deep breath and calm down its not rocket science. Question does your ESC have a battery eliminator ? if so take away the dry batteries to use in something else. Now your nicads connect to the POWER side of the esc. make sure you have the correct polarity. The servo plug from the ESC plugs into your receiver whichever is your throttle channel. If you have a modern set then you can put it on the wrong way round with no worries since positive is the centre post. The output of the ESC connect to your motor. If its a brushed motor no need to worry about polarity for now. With your ESC there should be some setup instructions if there are none ...... Usually its connect and switch on receiver then switch transmitter on with throttle full listen for beeps then go to low throttle. Switch receiver off. When you switch on in future make sure transmitter is switched on FIRST ok having gotten this far it only remains to check the direction of rotation of the motor. Take off the prop ( saves fingers) and put a piece of masking tale around end of prop shaft. Switch on transmitter switch on receiver and try the throttle. If the motor spins in correct direction fine if not Brushed motor swap the motor leads over Brushless motor swap any 2 of the 3 motor leads over. Job done have a cuppa then decide to sort out the rudder.

Counter Rotating Props by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi Reilly, both ships have twin rudders, one per screw, so the direction of rotation hardly matters. See also ma comment re KM 'Narvik' destroyers. Cheers 😎

Counter Rotating Props by Trillium Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
Now here's a question for the experts. I have two identical waterjets for fitting into a model; same size and same rotation for forward motion. Will I see the same effect as if I had two open water props which were the same? Roy

Counter Rotating Props by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Actually for ships with props on separate prop shafts it's counter rotating. Contra refers to aircraft equipped with contra-rotating propellers with rotation about the same axis in opposite directions. Contra-rotating propellers should not be confused with counter-rotating propellers on separate shafts turning in opposite directions. I was intrigued by this discussion, possibly because it reminded me of my model flying days. What would we do without Wiki! Dave

Perkasa 49 inch by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Very tidy boat and nice Captain's POV 👍 Next step cam rotation? Limit switches or servo with travel extension ? After that telemetry with video back to base ?? Some sets have a good 5.8Gig back channel for this. I recently bought the Toshiba Sport camera, with a waterproof case, so I might try it on my 107cm 1:72 Type IIA U26 ! Plug in mount instead of the 88 on the foredeck. For rescue I have the Tug Southampton, bought RTR and modified slightly so I can at least push home. Not easy with long thin ships like my destroyer so thinking of a steel plate on the bow and a neodym magnet on the tugs winch 😎

Finished Sections and Top Stringer by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Looking good. 👍 Same construction method I used for my H Class destroyer. Appreciate the size problem, typical length to beam ratio of destroyers ca 9to1. Gives speed but affects stability. Where did I read quotes like "she rolls on wet grass"! I chose 1:72 for Hotspur giving 136x12cm to play with. Don't despair; I squeezed in 2x500 brushed plus switching for lights, 2 sound boards, loud speaker, smoke generator and rotation for radar and main guns. Sure you can get 2x385 motors, or small brushless in 😉 Keep the top weight down though, or with the Buckley's 8.4 to 1 length to beam ratio you might have a near heart attack on the first fast turn, like I did with Hotspur 🤔 Keep up the good work, look forward to the video .... Cheers Doug 😎

Installation by Trillium Commander   Posted: 3 months ago
Screw holes for holding the support beam in position were marked in the sponson supports and drilled. At this point the assembly could be installed permanently. - Removed the nut and washer from the centre of the master rod and attached the support beam to it; replaced and tightened the lock washer and nut. - Slid the wheel onto the shaft until the locating holes for the support beam lined up with the screw holes in the sponson supports and fitted the screws. - Final check of rotation on the shaft.(see video) - Tightened the wheel drive collar onto the paddle shaft. This was a 3/16” collar drilled for a short length of 1/16” brass rod, which was soldered in and then bent to fit into one of the drive holes near the centre of the inner side wheel. The video shows the motion for the starboard wheel. It has been operated under radio control, but even at its lowest speed it goes too fast unloaded to see the motion clearly. All that is required now is some liquid water to try it out and learn whether the objective has been achieved.

Handed props by Haverlock Admiral   Posted: 3 months ago
its a little safer to take props off and put a piece of masking tape over the ends of the prop shafts. That way you can check rotation directions and keep a full set of fingers ~laughs~

Making the searchlight. Part one. The metalwork. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Having decided to make the searchlight a working feature I needed to make a sturdier base for it as the supplied white metal item is far too weak and not up to the job. This is another job for the man with the lathe......😜 I want the new piece to replicate the original as much as possible so I took measurements of the white metal part and produced a dimensional drawing which I e-mailed to my brother. A short while later the item arrived in the post with another as a spare in case I messed up the first! 😓 I annealed some ‘D’ profile brass rod and formed it to the dimensions of the original cradle and set this into a slot filed into the top of the turned searchlight base. Before silver soldering the cradle into place I spun the part in a drill and rounded off the base with some abrasive to a profile more like the original. I also filed flats at the cradle ends and drilled them, and the searchlight body, to accept some 2mm brass screws to join the two parts together. The base has a 2mm diameter hole bored through to accept the drive shaft from the servo and a very small grub screw secures the base onto this shaft. The 3 watt LED is already epoxy into the searchlight body but I will replace the wire with something thinner and bring it out through the back in some heat shrink tubing. I'm hoping that this will be flexible enough to allow free rotation of the searchlight.😊

San Pedro Pus Boat - Engine Room Fittings by tomarack Lieutenant   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi, sorely I can not put the wiring diagram here, so please look at my album on Rajce , where I placed the wiring diagram!!! > http://tomarack.rajce.idnes.cz/RC_model_Lulonga/ I do not think you got the wrong V-tail mixer, you just need it put to wiring and properly involve. Therefore, I do not use internal mix at transmitter, and even and cannot program it ( therefore, I chose a simple mixer - it performed only simple mixing of signals, in my case Ail and Throttle , no damned programming!!)   when connecting of engines because you have to program the transmitter to function properly. (Thr forward - backward) and canal -1 ("Ailerons" - adjust the direction of rotation so that when tilting the control stick left, right engine had more speed than the left engine, and vice versa) I have on Lulonga the rudder separately on channel 4 (on my model has a lousy efficiency), but it can be connected via a Y cable to output Ail, where one branch goes to the servo, the second branch to the V-tail mixer, or you can engage Mix, which lead the canal 1 Ail, a slave can 4 - Rudder - wants this just to try. Of course you can try a mix of programming of the transmitter, but I wanted first and foremost a simple electrical connection that works. Then, if you know how that works, then it is easier to try and programming of the transmitter. This I then used my second model, Thames sailing barge Capricorn > http://tomarack.rajce.idnes.cz/TSB_Capricorn/ At the end of this album I gave examples of wiring and mixes too. I made a simple table, and then tried what and how it works. But it is a control model sailboats. For your model table would look different. It depends on what type of transmitter you have. wishing success ! Tom

Fitting the wheelhouse roof panels by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
The three panels make up the wheelhouse roof and the outer two needed the heat gun treatment to curve them in two directions so a bit of patience is required here to get this right. When they are correctly shaped the mating edges of all three need a little chamfering, they also need to overlap the cabin walls by 1/8th of an inch. I cut out a hole in the centre panel to give me access to the bracket that hold the searchlight rotation servo in place. Before fitting the roof panels I added a couple of small blocks either side of the cabin formers directly beneath where the mast feet will be to reinforce the areas so that I can bolt down the mast legs on threaded studs and also to enable it's removal for storage if required. Once again I used a file and sanding block over the formers and cabin sides to profile them so that the panels sit flush on the framework. The outer panel on which the searchlight sits was also pierced to take the 2mm threaded stud will connects the servo to the searchlight base. I'll need to make and fit a circular wedge fillet on the roof to meet the searchlight base because of the curvature of the roof at that point. The undersides of the panels got a couple of coats of sanding sealer and a brushed coat of a black satin water based paint, being careful not to coat the areas where the glue lines will be. The rest of the interior of the cabin also got another coat of black paint. The centre panel was fitted first making sure that the hole was correctly aligned with the servo shaft position, when the glue had dried the two outer panels were glued and clamped. I fitted the sliding hatch rails on a couple of bearers and made a frame around the access hole for the hatch to fit onto. The other small hole at the front of the centre panel is for the navigation light wiring. Thankfully that's the end of the superstructure construction which was unnecessarily difficult due to the less than helpful instructions and drawings and poorly fitting parts. Some room for improvement here by the kit maker I think ❓ ..... Next episode coming to screen near you soon.... 😁

The searchlight, making it light up and turn. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
After a bit of head scratching I think I have a plan 😉 I bought a Turnigy mini servo, a servo tester and a battery pack from Hobbyking, and a 3w white LED and reflector from Maplins. The LED is mounted on quite a large heat sink and needed trimming down to fit inside the searchlight body, I checked all the time for continuity and that the conductive tracks on the heat-sink would not short to the metal body, I drilled a hole in the underside of the body for the wiring and epoxied the LED in place. I temporarily connected a dropper resistor and battery pack to the LED and ran it for a few minutes to test the heat gain which was negligible, clearly the metal I removed from the heat-sink is amply made up by the mass of the white metal body. The servo was temporarily fixed in place with a couple of screws so that I could test the rotation with the servo tester (at this time I didn't have any radio gear) . It works a treat ! 😀 The servo was then mounted within the WF3 windscreen former with the output spigot directly below the proposed searchlight position, a supporting structure and a retaining bar holds it in place as I don't intend to permanently fix it. I will cut an access hole in the cabin roof below the hatch to allow access to the bracket so that the servo can be replaced if required. I'll make a lens and protective grid later and also re-make the searchlight cradle and base in brass as the white metal one is just too flimsy and would bend and break in no time. Now I can get on with the rest of the cabin construction 😁

Kingfisher Plans by Haverlock Admiral   Posted: 6 months ago
You could add an extra piece BUT consider your prop will still be at risk. The speed of the prop is a vector addition of the rotational speed plus boat speed. Unless you intend to run at very high speed its probable the shaft will survive most collisions.

Propeller 101 by Haverlock Admiral   Posted: 6 months ago
Do not forget to specify right or left handed the thread is the same but the direction of rotation is different and please do remember to fit a locknut ( and use locktite) so your new prop doesn't join the rest of the lost bits on the bottom of the pond

DAMEN STAN 4207 by RHBaker Admiral   Posted: 7 months ago
The twin rudders were made out of styrene strip and brass rod, which slide into brass sleeves in the hull. The rudder horn movement is severely restricted by the rear hull RIB well. The rudder posts are adjacent to the inner wall of the well precluding fitting a rudder horn that allows free rotation. To overcome this fitted the rudder horns facing out board from the rudder posts. The adjacent bulkhead had been recessed to allow the horn to swing freely into it. The rudder linkage rods were fed forward to a set of cranks and then linked together. The cranks were then joined to a servo with a short link. The intermediate cranks were introduced to allow free rudder horn movement. The RIB well can now be completed as the rudder mechanism works. I use the same Tx with various linked Rxs fitted to several models. To avoid confusion over control sense it is important to ensure all Tx movements remain the same. Thoughts currently are to control both the stabilizers and rudder servos with the same Tx lever. This means the linkage must allow one of the servos to be reversed, which in this case should be the rudder to retain consistency with other models. Unsure of the degree of stabilizer fin movement relative to the rudder so procured paired, and also mixing servo wiring harnesses to experiment. Each linkage has adjustment capability, so the results of sailing trails can be incorporated. As had now resolved the rudder movement issue decided the sterngate, which is behind the RIB well, could also be made operable. Perhaps one day will also make the RIB operate!