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>> Home > Tags > rotation

lindberg cc constellation
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contra rotating
Props - dumb question? by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 20 hours ago
The down side of prop rotation is that the Europeans use one method of defining it and the Americans use another - and they are contradictory. From the Prop-Shop site "Please note that propeller rotation is based on the British and American standard (viewing the boat from the stern) which is the opposite to that in Germany." See,3541...

USS Coeur de Lion by rpbidgood Petty Officer   Posted: 3 months ago
This ship was a lightship tender named "Coeur de Lion" that was armed and drafted into the Union during the civil war to counter blockade runners. This model is scratch built and is inspired by a paper model designed by Magnus Mörck. A sidewheel steamer equipped with the typical walking beam machinery, it was rebuilt to carry three guns. A line of iron plates along the gun wales added a measure of armoured protection. After the war it was returned to lightship service. On my model the paddles are independently driven, mainly because I have a Robbe Navy F14 transmitter with twin sticks. The walking beam is operated by a servo modified for continuous rotation. The original ship towed a barge that flew an observation balloon and could be described as the first 'aircraft carrier' the fifth picture shows the barge I have made - I hope one day to emulate the real thing by raising and lowering a suitable balloon. I have included some pictures of the rest of my paddle fleet.The 'Rachel Erin' is a freelance sternwheeler 'quarter wheeler' tug that uses a worm drive to the paddles. She does not steer well. The last ship is an enlarged version of Graham Goodchild's Santa Anna.

March'71 by Sakibian Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
165footer job from Bangladesh navy. Armed with 1 37mm Chinese naval cannon (which I replaced with type 76F variant), 2 orlicons. Actually used to patrol costal area here , also used in coast guard. The class name is padma class patrol vessel, designed and made by BN. Tried to make its rc version in 1:110th scale(I'm not great like you guys so please help me do better and suggest me where I can do better). Length 45cm, beam 7cm. Powered with dual 180. The only thing I'm suffering is motor shaft connectoŕ. Those two universal joints I bought are not good enough for smooth rotation. They vibrates. So I used silicone tubes. Now I'm using latex rubber tubes . Any suggestions or plan what I can use in peace!😆

All hooked up, nowt happens... by rapidair65 Seaman   Posted: 3 months ago
Arun now sorted. Programming card did not work so I translated the pidgin english instructions for the ESC and it worked using the Tx. I now have forward and reverse, correct prop rotation and no battery protection. Also the water cooling system for the ESC works with the water exiting from the exhausts on the stern. On the down side the nav lights have stopped working! Pictures of installation and finished boat later.

fuse holder by Manofkent Petty Officer   Posted: 3 months ago
I agree with using the ones from component shop. They do single and two gang and as well as using auto fuses (Halfords) the holder has an led that shows red or green depending on motor rotation direction.

All hooked up, nowt happens... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
You're as BAD as me Boaty 😉 but I had a Rover 2000 with fully reclining seats back then - no problem 😁 Re 3 wires on a brushless. Simply put, this is analogous to a 3 phase AC motor (such as used in bathroom extractor fans etc). If you apply a single phase AC voltage to an AC motor it just twitches backwards and forwards in the same place as the voltage crosses from the positive to the negative half cycle. Thus 3 phases are applied giving 3 'shoves' in sequence to keep things moving. A starter capacitor is also needed to give the motor a 'belt' to shove it off. Similarly with a brushless: the ESC senses where the motor armature is in relation to the magnet poles and applies a DC pulse to the next armature coil in sequence. When you shove the throttle up the pulse width lengthens applying a longer shove and thus more energy and speed. Pulling the throttle back with a reversible ESC just turns the pulse train upside down so that negative DC pulses are applied to the motor, reversing the magnetic field created in the armature and thus the rotation. Simple really. It's the sensing and timing done inside the ESC that's the tricky bit, which is why we had to wait about a hundred years from the invention of the AC motor (Nikolai Tesla) until we could use them in models - thanks to micro-electronics. Here endeth today's seminar 😁😁 Happy brushlessing Folks, cheers, Doug 😎 Hmmm, perhaps that's why electric toothbrushes use brushed motors! 😁😜

All hooked up, nowt happens... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 months ago
Hello all, since I keep the weekend for me I thought I'd try hooking up all the lecktrickery for my brushless motor. It's one of they outrunning tiddlers. I have a 3S LiPo which is firing on all cylinders at 3.79 volts per. I plug it in to the ESC, some Chinese one I got recently. I soldered wires to a T type plug that fits the Overlander battery pack. I'd already soldered the 2mm connectors to the other end of the ESC wires and protected them with heat shrink. Plugged tested (6.2 volts) Nimhs into Rx and it starts flashing, then plugged ESC into a channel and the motor, yes , the MOTOR starts beeping! How the hell can that happen? I plug the battery in and the motor beeps even quicker! What on earth is happening? Needless to say, no rotation, buzzing, whistling, just beeps from a motor, clear as you like! Please help. I am already teetering on the edge of getting rid of all my working stuff as it takes up space and is such a damned faff! But what I have, I would like to work. Just long enough to prove it all. Martin

Must get the skins on before I pull all of my hair out!! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Pete, Basically yes. There are some other tricks with twin screws, not least engine assistance using a twin ESC with rudder mixer. Also the screw rotation makes a slight difference, and the rudders are usually slightly offset from the shafts, depending on the screw rotation. Are yours turning outwards or inwards? Referred to the top of the screw looking from aft while going forward. Cheers, Doug

Help required on Boat i.d. by Rookysailor Commander   Posted: 4 months ago
Apologies for not correcting the rotation of the pictures.....

Got the bits, now what?... by jimdogge Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi westquay. that looks like a 2200 3 sel battery if it is and it has a black deans connector on it (they are usually yellow) in my opinion they are the best. XT60 if it is put a male xt 60 on the battery side of the esc and your own chosen bullet connectors on the esc to motor. I like to use ec3 or ec5 (depending on current draw) with a different coloured heat shrink seal, on each one. it helps if you need to reverse the the rotation of the motor. Take a look on line at the way the electric flyboys link it all together you will also get an idea of the connctions. Hope this helps. jimdogge

Rebuild starts by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Is it possible to fit new bearings in the existing shaft tube, if not I have managed to get old shafts out by carefully heating the tube using a soldering iron inserted into the end and as it heats up applying rotational force gently back and forth until the the glue gives way. This has worked for me on wooden hulls. Cheers Colin.

BRAVE BORDERER by jbkiwi Commander   Posted: 5 months ago
If you are using 2 ESCs/BEC/UBECs with 2 plugged into 1 receiver you should remove the red wire from one of the plugs and tape it back to the lead, as both plugged in will possibly supply too much voltage for the receiver (you are getting double the voltage from 2 different sources) and this can cause the ESC to stutter . You should have no problems with Brushless out-runner motors as with the correct match with the ESC they should be as smooth as brushed. I have dual 2000kv 28/45 in-runners (with water jackets) and twin ESCs and 2 sound units using 1 receiver in my 64ft ASR model with no problems regarding proportional control (fwd or rev). I had a 28mm O/R in a Maiami ASR and it would crawl along (but the high noise was ear wrecking so have changed it back to brushed for now. I do have a similar slight high pitched squeal at certain speeds on one motor and this may be caused by the particular motor not 'syncing'properly with the ESC (Chinese cheap ESCs and HobbyKing /made in china motors) but short of changing that motor and ESC I am just putting up with it for now. The high pitched sync noise is fairly common and sometimes not fixable, (a number of my larger planes do it and its audible from 100m away (also amplified by a hull,-nice sound box). It can depend on the way a particular motor is wound (no 2 are identical) or even magnet placement/timing, as the may be hand wound by 2 very nice Chinese ladies at different ends of a bench ( just read some of the Hobby King motor reviews ) You could try changing the frequency on the ESC if it has that option as a higher motor Kv sometimes requires a higher frequency. Also make sure your ESC is set to the correct battery cell count. If it has an auto setting that should usually work best for general applications unless you are running fancy motors. Regarding interference, make sure you keep your aerial as far as poss from the motors and ESCs (even on 2.4 - I put mine right up in the bow) and there should be no problems. I have had 2 twin engined boats (my MTB & ASR) 1 brushed and 1 brushless running side by side 10" apart using the same radio for both (same type of Rec in each boat) with no problems at all. The bow down is probably prop shaft angle (the shallower the better) but if you are using counter rotating props you could try swapping props (inward rotation to outward) and motor rotation to see if it makes a difference. Also with 2800Kv motors you should be using small props (around 28-30mm diam 3 blade) as these motors are made to rev) as on a 2s battery they will be turning at around 20,000 dry and perhaps 18,000 wet (depending on prop) and if you load them too much they will cook with no cooling (assuming they are around 28mm dia ?) Only other thought - silicone couplings will squeal real loud if they slip.

SLA Batteries! by reilly4 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi Ed, I have MTroniks ESC's including a couple of PNP types. What I do is to start by moving the stick to reverse then back to the middle, (You can observe the direction of rotation). Then to the top and back to the middle. This works. The SLA batteries have nothing to do with the issue.

What is the optimum prop shaft angle? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Mornin' Ron, If you put the motor where the batteries are now - where will the batteries go? They weigh far more than the motor so moving them forward will push the CoG even further forward😲 Re shaft angle; as flat as you can get it for the size of prop you want to use. This is to reduce the forward rotation moment of the thrust which tends to push the bow down. The further back you fit the motor the larger the angle will inevitably become due to the space needed for the motor and mount! BTW: Why two NiMh batteries? I would be tempted to change the set up to a brushless and a single LiPo. This will significantly reduce the total weight as well👍 You did say the boat is 'a heavy model'! 😉 Doug 😎

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 6 by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Dry fitting pro-shafts (Note, all shafts parallel with the keel) Drilled with an old prop-shaft which I modified to a cutting tool then finished with a round file and cut slots for propeller-shaft support bracket with a hacksaw, file and knife. Note these shafts are lightweight aluminium tube with steel liners and steel shafts. props at currently 40mm but as with all things scale things are not always practical in scale size such as propellers and rudders and in this case the direction of rotation (not all going round clockwise).