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>> Home > Tags > rotation

rotation
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rotation
Twin motor control problem by John Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Hi Berty, the props and direction of rotation are correct. The motors only rotate in one direction when in the water. They are fine on the bench. John,

Blown esc........ again 😢 by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
What ESC were you using? My experience with 600 motors is that they are power hungry, smell a lot and get very, very hot. I had two in a Slipway Trent (they advise the ECO version, no longer available) and used to be able to smell them from the shore! Could be the ESC internals circuitry shut down and may start working again when cool. Any weed in your pond will definitely overload them, which was my problem. Too big a prop will also cause overheating. I had 40mm 3 blade brass props in the Trent. It's possible that the motor is to blame if it has cooked the coils and caused an internal short. Try running direct from the battery with an ammeter in circuit. I am assuming you have checked your propshaft for free rotation and no binding, locknuts can and do come adrift and can tighten up on the shaft, which may explain the slowing down you experienced. Please keep us posted with your progress Cheers Dave

propshafts by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Roy, to dispel any possible confusion; by 'double jointed' I mean the true Cardan link. Which is in 3 parts connected by 2 UJs. Invented by an Italian mathematician and engineer several centuries ago to transfer rotation from one axial shaft line / level to a different (within reason) line without using gears. They inevitably create more friction by applying more side pressure to both input and output shafts, thus more wear on the motor output bearing and the tube input bearing 🤔 Plus friction and rattling/grinding generated in two 'out of line' UJs. If, as they should be, your motor and prop shaft are in (near) perfect alignment you don't need a Cardan! My maxim is 'less flexibility - more alignment' 😉 I like the coupling in the pic; called Stegkupplung in German, don't know the English for that😉 They are flexible but not floppy and totally silent👍 I once made the mistake (laziness🤔) of using a Graupner Cardan to couple up a geared Decaperm to the shaft in my Sea Scout. Never ever again 😡 After the first trials I took it apart and modded the motor mount properly. The original motor (perfectly fitted by my Dad) was a Taycol Target - the one I have recently modded for controllable forward and reverse. That will now be used in an ancient Billing Fish cutter inherited from an Aunt. Cheers Doug 😎

What motor have I got? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Good pics 👍 At first look I would say two are identical, the 'mucky' one without the outer jacket (improves the magnetic field) is probably not. Even if it is the same type without the jacket it will not perform the same. Proof of the pudding will be in the testing, preferably with a Watt meter. The red dot signifies the positive terminal for normal (forward) rotation as brushed motors have a preferred direction due to the brush wear - Bedding In! Many don't like running backwards for long periods or at high speed. The fact that the mucky one has a gear fitted also hints that it may have different parameters. For a twin screw setup I would use the two with jackets and see how she runs with all trims set to neutral. I'll see if I can trace the type/serial number visible on the mucky one. Cheers Doug 😎

Working radar by chugalone100 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
Dave: What are you doing up so late?. Take a look at this continuos servo I found on Ebay. Could it be good enough for my radar project? http://www.ebay.com/itm/9g-Continuous-Rotation-Micro-Servo/1... Julian😎

Working radar by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Julian My 1:32 Trent lifeboat has a similar radar housing to your model. I made my radar casing around a very small servo with the feedback removed plus the the internal pins to allow for continuous rotation. You can remove the bottom part of the servo casing to make it even smaller. Mine sticks thro the top of the radar case and I plug the radar scanner onto the serrated drive. It worked fine but I subsequently removed the electrics and drive the motor via a voltage reducer ( I make my own based on a 317 chip) but they are cheap to buy. The real problem is the noise of the cheap gearing in the minature servos. OK on the water but very noisy if you are exhibiting inside. See pics Dave

Working radar by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Julian, don't know exactly how much room you have under the radar mount but I still think you will need a couple of pulleys! Motor mounted out of sight underneath the mast - shaft running up the mast to pulley #1 - pulley #2 mounted at end of the boom underneath the the radar mount. Choose ratio of diameter pulley 1 to 2 according to the space available and final rotation rate (RPM) you want. Strong rubber band to connect the two pulleys. Didn't need this method for my destroyer radar cos it sat right on top of the Director Tower, but used the pulley principle for gun turret rotation to connect two turrets together! 👍 One servo with extended rotation arc and two pulleys. Cheers Doug 😎

Working radar by chugalone100 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 4 months ago
Doug: I have seen this website. Very little information about the gears he used. But is a place to start planning the way I will build my antenna. About the servos, I found a mini servo with continuos rotation on eBay and thats another option Im looking at.👍 Thank you Julian

Wiring in a rx, an ESC and a battery (pack) by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
first take a deep breath and calm down its not rocket science. Question does your ESC have a battery eliminator ? if so take away the dry batteries to use in something else. Now your nicads connect to the POWER side of the esc. make sure you have the correct polarity. The servo plug from the ESC plugs into your receiver whichever is your throttle channel. If you have a modern set then you can put it on the wrong way round with no worries since positive is the centre post. The output of the ESC connect to your motor. If its a brushed motor no need to worry about polarity for now. With your ESC there should be some setup instructions if there are none ...... Usually its connect and switch on receiver then switch transmitter on with throttle full listen for beeps then go to low throttle. Switch receiver off. When you switch on in future make sure transmitter is switched on FIRST ok having gotten this far it only remains to check the direction of rotation of the motor. Take off the prop ( saves fingers) and put a piece of masking tale around end of prop shaft. Switch on transmitter switch on receiver and try the throttle. If the motor spins in correct direction fine if not Brushed motor swap the motor leads over Brushless motor swap any 2 of the 3 motor leads over. Job done have a cuppa then decide to sort out the rudder.

Counter Rotating Props by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi Reilly, both ships have twin rudders, one per screw, so the direction of rotation hardly matters. See also ma comment re KM 'Narvik' destroyers. Cheers 😎

Counter Rotating Props by Trillium Commander   Posted: 6 months ago
Now here's a question for the experts. I have two identical waterjets for fitting into a model; same size and same rotation for forward motion. Will I see the same effect as if I had two open water props which were the same? Roy

Counter Rotating Props by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
Actually for ships with props on separate prop shafts it's counter rotating. Contra refers to aircraft equipped with contra-rotating propellers with rotation about the same axis in opposite directions. Contra-rotating propellers should not be confused with counter-rotating propellers on separate shafts turning in opposite directions. I was intrigued by this discussion, possibly because it reminded me of my model flying days. What would we do without Wiki! Dave

Perkasa 49 inch by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 months ago
Very tidy boat and nice Captain's POV 👍 Next step cam rotation? Limit switches or servo with travel extension ? After that telemetry with video back to base ?? Some sets have a good 5.8Gig back channel for this. I recently bought the Toshiba Sport camera, with a waterproof case, so I might try it on my 107cm 1:72 Type IIA U26 ! Plug in mount instead of the 88 on the foredeck. For rescue I have the Tug Southampton, bought RTR and modified slightly so I can at least push home. Not easy with long thin ships like my destroyer so thinking of a steel plate on the bow and a neodym magnet on the tugs winch 😎

Finished Sections and Top Stringer by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 months ago
Looking good. 👍 Same construction method I used for my H Class destroyer. Appreciate the size problem, typical length to beam ratio of destroyers ca 9to1. Gives speed but affects stability. Where did I read quotes like "she rolls on wet grass"! I chose 1:72 for Hotspur giving 136x12cm to play with. Don't despair; I squeezed in 2x500 brushed plus switching for lights, 2 sound boards, loud speaker, smoke generator and rotation for radar and main guns. Sure you can get 2x385 motors, or small brushless in 😉 Keep the top weight down though, or with the Buckley's 8.4 to 1 length to beam ratio you might have a near heart attack on the first fast turn, like I did with Hotspur 🤔 Keep up the good work, look forward to the video .... Cheers Doug 😎

Installation by Trillium Commander   Posted: 8 months ago
Screw holes for holding the support beam in position were marked in the sponson supports and drilled. At this point the assembly could be installed permanently. - Removed the nut and washer from the centre of the master rod and attached the support beam to it; replaced and tightened the lock washer and nut. - Slid the wheel onto the shaft until the locating holes for the support beam lined up with the screw holes in the sponson supports and fitted the screws. - Final check of rotation on the shaft.(see video) - Tightened the wheel drive collar onto the paddle shaft. This was a 3/16” collar drilled for a short length of 1/16” brass rod, which was soldered in and then bent to fit into one of the drive holes near the centre of the inner side wheel. The video shows the motion for the starboard wheel. It has been operated under radio control, but even at its lowest speed it goes too fast unloaded to see the motion clearly. All that is required now is some liquid water to try it out and learn whether the objective has been achieved.