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>> Home > Tags > rotation

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rotating radars off mast by marlina2 Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
I have recently constructed a rotating radar mast for my 1:48 scale paddle tug "Forceful" I have used a geared 6 volt 60 RPM motor which gives a realistic scale rotational speed. It is a little noisy but only when close up. it is driven by a direct shaft running up the centre of the mast not prototypical but gives a pleasing effect. I may rebuild this at a latter date to eliminate the noise

rotating radars off mast by kmbcsecretary Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
I have used the kits from Mr rc World he has option of motors and the controller that comes with it gives you the fine control to set the speed of rotation to what you want and powered by your receiver pack You can find him on flea bay or on the Web

Twin Esc/Mixer by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
My pleasure👍 Re motor wires; I would be more inclined to think that the red one is the positive!! You'll soon find out if you do the rotation check I mentioned in the PM! Have fun and don't blow anything up! Check twice - pay once😉 Cheers Doug 😎

Twin motor control problem by John Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Paul, yes it sails at Bury and I am continuing to try different options. There has been much head scratching at Bury over the problem and the rescue boat has been out a couple of times to rescue the boat in reverse. The Y leads have been tried as you suggested. It is easy to test the rotation direction by feeling the air flow and slowing them manually to observe them.

Twin motor control problem by reilly4 Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
John, Before you get any more ESCs here are a two basic things to try. 1. At the water's edge (on the stand) start the motors (both). Check their rotation. Then lower the boat into the water and see what happens. Either it should continue in the forward direction or it will stop and then go into reverse. Separately 2. Plug ESC into one radio channel and plug the other into another channel. This is a test - each ESC will be totally independent. Also we don't want use the BEC. I have had problems of a similar but slightly different nature with my Fairmile D previously, except that one of the motors would just stop after 15 or 20 seconds. Now I have each ESC running off a separate channel on the radio and the two channels are mixed so there is a master and slave channel and I use the single throttle stick to operate it. It works fine.

Question- Prop rotatio direction? by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Can anyone advise me on correct prop rotation direction. I will be using 2x45mm props 1 clockwise and 1 counter-clockwise. My thought is looking at the props from the rear the lefthand side will rotate clockwise and oposite for the righthand side. Please advise me if I am wrong!

Twin motor control problem by John Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Berty, the props and direction of rotation are correct. The motors only rotate in one direction when in the water. They are fine on the bench. John,

Blown esc........ again 😢 by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
What ESC were you using? My experience with 600 motors is that they are power hungry, smell a lot and get very, very hot. I had two in a Slipway Trent (they advise the ECO version, no longer available) and used to be able to smell them from the shore! Could be the ESC internals circuitry shut down and may start working again when cool. Any weed in your pond will definitely overload them, which was my problem. Too big a prop will also cause overheating. I had 40mm 3 blade brass props in the Trent. It's possible that the motor is to blame if it has cooked the coils and caused an internal short. Try running direct from the battery with an ammeter in circuit. I am assuming you have checked your propshaft for free rotation and no binding, locknuts can and do come adrift and can tighten up on the shaft, which may explain the slowing down you experienced. Please keep us posted with your progress Cheers Dave

propshafts by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Roy, to dispel any possible confusion; by 'double jointed' I mean the true Cardan link. Which is in 3 parts connected by 2 UJs. Invented by an Italian mathematician and engineer several centuries ago to transfer rotation from one axial shaft line / level to a different (within reason) line without using gears. They inevitably create more friction by applying more side pressure to both input and output shafts, thus more wear on the motor output bearing and the tube input bearing 🤔 Plus friction and rattling/grinding generated in two 'out of line' UJs. If, as they should be, your motor and prop shaft are in (near) perfect alignment you don't need a Cardan! My maxim is 'less flexibility - more alignment' 😉 I like the coupling in the pic; called Stegkupplung in German, don't know the English for that😉 They are flexible but not floppy and totally silent👍 I once made the mistake (laziness🤔) of using a Graupner Cardan to couple up a geared Decaperm to the shaft in my Sea Scout. Never ever again 😡 After the first trials I took it apart and modded the motor mount properly. The original motor (perfectly fitted by my Dad) was a Taycol Target - the one I have recently modded for controllable forward and reverse. That will now be used in an ancient Billing Fish cutter inherited from an Aunt. Cheers Doug 😎

What motor have I got? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 months ago
Good pics 👍 At first look I would say two are identical, the 'mucky' one without the outer jacket (improves the magnetic field) is probably not. Even if it is the same type without the jacket it will not perform the same. Proof of the pudding will be in the testing, preferably with a Watt meter. The red dot signifies the positive terminal for normal (forward) rotation as brushed motors have a preferred direction due to the brush wear - Bedding In! Many don't like running backwards for long periods or at high speed. The fact that the mucky one has a gear fitted also hints that it may have different parameters. For a twin screw setup I would use the two with jackets and see how she runs with all trims set to neutral. I'll see if I can trace the type/serial number visible on the mucky one. Cheers Doug 😎

Working radar by chugalone100 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 5 months ago
Dave: What are you doing up so late?. Take a look at this continuos servo I found on Ebay. Could it be good enough for my radar project? http://www.ebay.com/itm/9g-Continuous-Rotation-Micro-Servo/1... Julian😎

Working radar by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 months ago
Hi Julian My 1:32 Trent lifeboat has a similar radar housing to your model. I made my radar casing around a very small servo with the feedback removed plus the the internal pins to allow for continuous rotation. You can remove the bottom part of the servo casing to make it even smaller. Mine sticks thro the top of the radar case and I plug the radar scanner onto the serrated drive. It worked fine but I subsequently removed the electrics and drive the motor via a voltage reducer ( I make my own based on a 317 chip) but they are cheap to buy. The real problem is the noise of the cheap gearing in the minature servos. OK on the water but very noisy if you are exhibiting inside. See pics Dave

Working radar by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi Julian, don't know exactly how much room you have under the radar mount but I still think you will need a couple of pulleys! Motor mounted out of sight underneath the mast - shaft running up the mast to pulley #1 - pulley #2 mounted at end of the boom underneath the the radar mount. Choose ratio of diameter pulley 1 to 2 according to the space available and final rotation rate (RPM) you want. Strong rubber band to connect the two pulleys. Didn't need this method for my destroyer radar cos it sat right on top of the Director Tower, but used the pulley principle for gun turret rotation to connect two turrets together! 👍 One servo with extended rotation arc and two pulleys. Cheers Doug 😎

Working radar by chugalone100 Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 months ago
Doug: I have seen this website. Very little information about the gears he used. But is a place to start planning the way I will build my antenna. About the servos, I found a mini servo with continuos rotation on eBay and thats another option Im looking at.👍 Thank you Julian

Wiring in a rx, an ESC and a battery (pack) by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 months ago
first take a deep breath and calm down its not rocket science. Question does your ESC have a battery eliminator ? if so take away the dry batteries to use in something else. Now your nicads connect to the POWER side of the esc. make sure you have the correct polarity. The servo plug from the ESC plugs into your receiver whichever is your throttle channel. If you have a modern set then you can put it on the wrong way round with no worries since positive is the centre post. The output of the ESC connect to your motor. If its a brushed motor no need to worry about polarity for now. With your ESC there should be some setup instructions if there are none ...... Usually its connect and switch on receiver then switch transmitter on with throttle full listen for beeps then go to low throttle. Switch receiver off. When you switch on in future make sure transmitter is switched on FIRST ok having gotten this far it only remains to check the direction of rotation of the motor. Take off the prop ( saves fingers) and put a piece of masking tale around end of prop shaft. Switch on transmitter switch on receiver and try the throttle. If the motor spins in correct direction fine if not Brushed motor swap the motor leads over Brushless motor swap any 2 of the 3 motor leads over. Job done have a cuppa then decide to sort out the rudder.