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So, as per manual, built the tunnel duct former from 6mm ply. This is where i deviated slightly from the manual by making the duct from 3 laminations of 1/32 balsa instead of the depron centre and balsa outside. I used some solarfilm backing to keep the drying balsa off the former to prevent the very wet wood bonding to it, this I found out with my first attempt that stuck firm to the former and was destroyed attemting to remove! Its turned out great and after careful measuring, the rudder support was fitted (3mm Liteply substituted for the depron) and the whole thing sanded, sealed and primed ready to take VW Brilliant orange tomorrow. I made the rudders from 3mm balsa and glass clothed 1 side. ive fitted brass tubes instead of the supplied plastic tube. Last coupl of pics show the hull base with some balsa sheet added to give some extra rigidity without adding to much weight.
[Score: 10/10] 40" Enterprise Capable of 8mph and a runtime of 120mins Direct Drive to a Mother nature Controlled Through Acoms ESC - Comments: I love this 8 meter yacht,sail number K91 It has a great keel shape allowing weed to be ignored most of the time. Built by the southwater dabblers a while back and has been through a few owners before I brought her. Moves in the lightest of winds and copes with large gusts too. Am improvement on the basic model is the larger rudder allowing superb control (unless I get distracted!) Deck is lined in wood with a cabin top allowing access to the inner workings. I am running it on a acoms 27Mhz set as it has never let me down I can see little point in changing it to 2.4 Ghz The only thing I have done is added some portholes and a wheel to make it more realistic. As can be seen in last photo not all weed can be ignored!!!
Hi Bryan Best way to remove the propshaft is to undo the universal joint at the top then slide the shaft out through the stern tube . Sometimes this may be difficult if the rudder gets in the way. If you remove the prop there is a good chance you can extract the shaft without too much difficulty but be careful not to bend the shaft. Referring to the latter it is advisable to remove the rudder but on some occasions I have bent the rudder slightly though there is an element of risk in this as the rudder has to be realigned. When reassembling the shaft and universal coupling check that after fitting the prop there is adequate clearance between the prop hub and the stern tube and the same with the coupling so the assembly can rotate freely without rubbing against the tube . Regards Boaty😊
This day has seen the midnight blue airbrushed on followed by a thin coat of lacquer to give the roundel and trimline a good surface to stick too. Numbers to go on when they arrive from eBay. Having given the inside of the hull 2 coats of resin to waterproof it, I’ve now installed all The electronics, just the rudder pushrod to make and add. Next few days will see little progress as starting nights tonight!
Hi Steve Sorry, no I did not take photos of the build. If you have the Mobile Marine hull then I built a vertical wooden plate up through the top and strengthened with wood plates beneath the top moulding. If your rudder snake runs over the top make sure you allow for this when deciding how high to mount the motor/prop!! This works but flexes when power is applied so if I did another I would mount the upright to the base and make a slot in the top to allow it to pass through. I would also provide support, below the top, to the upright behind and right up to the hull sides. The force from the motor is truly awesome and plastic mouldings tend to (and do) flex. I use two rudders as other members have found they work better than one. I used 1/8" welding rods for the cage and did have some hard black netting at one time but have had no problems with just the frame. If I sailed in an area where the public had access then I would provide a cover. Just get the mount and prop sorted before you finalise as mine was too small!
Andy Being a Fairey Marine model fan you've got me intrigued. Are you drawing up your own plans from scratch? Unless you're a stickler for getting the details right the easiest way is as you say to move the rudder inboard and use the usual rudder tube. On the Huntress the external rudder assembly is pretty much hidden by the steps anyway. Chris
I'm reading the chat about stuffing boxes & shafts lots of guys in the club I'm in drill a hole into the stuffing box & solder a small tube over the hole to add oil or grease into the box . I goofed when I built my Sea Commander as I had no stuffing box but I had a shaft so I just used a brass tube for the shaft & lubricated the shaft with Sil-Glyde Lubricating compound a Silicone based grease I also use rudder O-Rings to help stop water getting into model through stuffing box. Kind of Mickey Mouse but it works .Except on first run out of water it does squeal a little but in the water it's fine.
Does any one have experience of models with twin motors in the Fairey Huntsman and Swordsman? (Or any boat) Would like what size the model was - what motor(s) were used and prop sizes, and was there any 'mixing' of motor control with rudder control.
Finished “Costa” planking today and have put in most of the edge strip (need more strip, model shop Friday!). Jobs to do before I start the superstructure, finish laying out the RC components, fit rudder parts, make battery tray etc. Put in a 1/4 square strip around deck opening to prevent water ingress. Couple of coats of resin inside radio bay, 1 more outside, sand and prime. Sand, stain and yacht varnish deck. One question on a water pick-up as using a water cooled ESC! Outlet will be in the transom, does it matter where the pick-up is located?
Well the measurements are close to the Siren, which is a USA design. Weight should be about 480 grams of which 200 grams are ballast. I use domestic scales but the kitchen may have a suitable type provided permission can be obtained. You could just rest the keel on the scales with the boat on its side to get an indication. The rudder is clearly a mod and may not be in the original designed position. On such a short length boat this may be relatively critical. Can you see if there are any marks on the hull suggesting a previous fitting? Are the sails the original that came with the model?
I agree with Dave, the hull etc is orange but the rudder is nicely finished wood with a blob of epoxy holding the rudder shaft???? also the keel weight has signs of blistering under the paint, has the weight been cut down???? The keel is not removable so the only way is to experiment by adding some extra weight, a couple of photos show a small hole in the balance weight, i wonder if the plug has been missing for some time and some of the lead shot has fallen out???? Dont know a lot about footies but an ounce of lead would make a critical difference Mark
Photos are good. I don't like the look of that rudder. Looks like it is an original keel. I need to know the dimensions of the hull, overall weight and keel weight to compare with the models on the website, please
Ok Is the weight and dimension the same as the Siren or 507? Looking at the rudder this looks like an after fit and does seem to be differently mounted (more vertical) than those on the website. The keel looks flat on the bottom. Has it been chopped in half? This would make the model very sensitive, especially in a gust. I'll wait for your response before adding more thoughts.
Hi All I was told to use plumber's tap silicon grease, which I have used for 3 years and only regreased once each year. I have added oiler/grease tubes to my rudders as well. Also you can get a silicon spray like WD40, but, with the silicon spray it crawls up the shaft. With the shaft out and the tube cleaned out(pipe cleaner works well for this) a shot of silicon grease in each end of the tube(only small amount). Hold your finger over the other end and install the shaft, this stops the grease coming out as the shaft comes through. A shot of silicon spray down the oiler tube and seal silicon fuel tube sealed off at one end. Canabus