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>> Home > Tags > rudder

rudder
rudder mount
twin rudder
rudder
getting there by Steve-Teresa Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 17 hours ago
well, bathroom trial's have taken place, a few adjustments, i.e positioning of the battery for balance, otherwise no bad at all, sit's ok may need a little balancing with weights but the open pond will allow travel and view from all angle's, electrics are in and basic, old transmitter and receiver, a cheep ebay esc, new motors, shafts, prop's and rudders, all working together well, the rest is as mentioned "stuff" that I found in the loft, shed and junk room.

Hull Pt2: Motorisation - Come What May!! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
As promised (or threatened?😁) stage two of the hull work and thoughts on motorisation. The hull was sprayed with two coats of grey primer/filler. Pic1. As usual this showed up the remaining imperfections (pics 2 & 3), but I'm not going to worry about them until I've got prop shaft tube and rudder stock sorted out and permanently fitted 😉 After my attempts to make and thread a 3mm prop shaft went awry Martin (Westway the Mechanicals Master👍) stepped in and made me a decent one complete with a bushed stuffing tube 👍 Vielen Dank Meister😊 I did however manage to make a 4mm to 3mm reducer so that I could fit a Rabeosch 35mm prop as seen in pics 2 & 3. The tube and shaft from Martin, arrived Saturday an' he only made it on Monday😊, have been dry fitted so that I can start setting up the gears, necessary to bring the drive down to the prop shaft fitted very low down in the hull, and motor mount. Pic 4. Motorisation: (Remember folks - this kit was designed and built as a static model!) I want to use the old 1950s Taycol Target motor which my Dad originally fitted in the Sea Scout which I have renovated and upgraded to brushless. See Build blog 'Sea Scout - Jessica' Many of you will know that the Taycol motors were field coil motors, meaning that they have no permanent magnet around the rotor coil, and thus reversing the battery connections to the brushes had no effect on the direction of rotation, as this simply reversed the magnetic fields of both stator and rotor coils🤔 To counteract this so that the motor could be used in both forward and reverse with a conventional brushed ESC I modified the motor slightly (separated the two coils) and built a simple converter board to connect it to the ESC. Again see the Sea Scout blog for the details of the conversion. Basically; once the field coil and brush-gear (rotor coil) have been separated a simple diode bridge can be used to apply the output of the ESC to the motor. This enables the reversal of EITHER field OR rotor coil polarity, depending on how you connect the converter to the motor. Thus reversing the direction of rotation of the motor. Beneficial side effect is that the diodes also suppress the commutator sparking😊 In my case, with the Taycol Target, I also cleaned, flattened and polished the commutator. Thus significantly reducing the potential for spark generation in the first place! A peculiarity of the Taycol motors is that they all use metal brushes, pressed phosphor bronze strip, so they need oiling! DO NOT oil conventional brushed motors with carbon brushes unless the brushes are exchangeable or you want to have to buy a new motor!!!!! Pics 5 & 6 show the proposed position of the Taycol in Gina 2 and pic 7 the prototype converter board I knocked up to test the motor, together with a Graupner Navy V30R Marine Brushed ESC. Details and results in the Sea Scout blog, including video of the sparks and oscilloscope pics of the drive waveforms before and after conversion! The latter showing the spark suppression effect of the converter😊 Some samples attached - last 3 pics. Pic 8 pic shows a more compact version of the converter, one of a few types I'm doing for Martin's various Taycols as a trade for the prop shaft he made for me and some useful material he sent. Thanks mate👍 Next steps will be 1) mounting the gears correctly on the shafts, requiring the manufacture of a 3/32" to 4mm adaptor and a 1/8" to 4mm adaptor, and keying them to the shafts - Hooray for mini milling machines 😉 2) manufacturing bushed end plates to hold the gears in place, 3) fitting the motor mounting platform. I'll probably borrow from my experiences of real shipbuilding and do this as a suspended 'false floor', i.e. mounted on stiff springs to enable adjustments to optimise the gearing mesh! On real naval ships this is done to improve shock resistance and to minimise engine noise / vibration conduction to the hull, thus significantly reducing the acoustic signature of the ship. Not that I'm tooo worried about being torpedoed 😁 Worth a try😉 Pic 9 shows the cleaned up and renovated Taycol Target motor. Pic 10 shows the drive waveform complete with sparks before modification.🤔 Pic 11 the cleaned 'forward' waveform with the converter board. Pic 12 the cleaned 'reverse' waveform, no suppression capacitors needed 😉 More soon folks, Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Along the way a new keel was fitted as can be seen in pics 1 to 3. The original builder had 'buried' the keel in the hull planking! 😲

Gwen M Model Yacht by ModelHover Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
Has anyone built a schooner (or skipjack) named Gwen M from the Marine Modelling plan No.MAR 2556 and featured in their magazine in the July 1996 issue ? I am trying to ascertain the weight of the lead keel and how it is fixed. Also I am looking for photos of the interior of the cabin to show the arrangement of servos for rudder and sails. Any help would be appreciated.

BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Rowen, Surely with a little ingenuity you could do both? Two shafts with a rudder mixer might be better for manoeuvring anyway 😉 Centre shaft on a separate channel and ESC and you've got the best of both worlds 😊 Cheers, Doug😎

A tall ship and a wheel to steer her with by Jerry Todd Captain   Posted: 6 days ago
Making a ship's wheel, specifically the turned spokes of a ship's wheel, and 20 of them all a-like, has been beyond me. So I gave up and got Model Monkey on Shapeways to scale his Constitution wheel up to 1:36 scale, and got 4 of them; 2 for Constellation, and 2 for Macedonian. The helm is made of mahogany. The curves braces laminated from some strips from an old kit; the uprights from some scrap left from a musical instrument build. The drum is some mahogany dowel, from a kit again, and a brass rod axle. Some paint and clear-coat and it's just about done. I was going to make it operate when the rudder servo moved, but a spoke handle fell off while painting, and I figure it's a bit fragile to be spinning at "non-scale" speeds, so it'll just get some line wrapped around the drum for show.

Wianno Senior progressing by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Mini-Servo installed and works just fine next to the rudder shaft. There will be a hatch cover with a Tiller attached to the rudder post. Yet to be made...stay tuned 🙏

What transmitter by Nobby-Clark Petty Officer   Posted: 7 days ago
Guys I’m in the market for a new transmitter and after advice. The first boat had a two channel, my new build will have independent motor control, I need some advise please on transmitter/ receiver, for two motors, one rudder, maybe spare etc for sound or cooling fan for motors etc. Any help out there , it needs to be reliable but pensioner affordable if the two go together. Regards Nobby

Wianno Senior progressing by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Added rudder today. Fibreglass applied and fillers between rudder and shaft. I put in a temporary mini servo, not pictured, but it was just beside the control horn.

Rudder Horns ect by deepdiver Commander   Posted: 11 days ago
Hi Well after some time thinking about making some new rudder horns (thinking = four beers) I have made them out of an old three pin plug I used the small fuse clip that the wire goes into, I have also used a mini servo and all seem's to work O.K, new motor mount made so that the motor's now line up, I also had to make a new rear deck and bulk head I will in time plank the rear deck, I have also started on making new rear deck housing. Fred

Windows, stoopid question. by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Damn good service👍 Much like Conrad, is often worth paying their price to get things very quick and free delivery 😊 Can't say it's too hot here, temp has dropped 10°C to about 18 and torrential rain all day so far 🤔 Tomorrow back up to about 28-30°C apparently 😎 Maybe I can spray my two hulls then. Just made a new keel for the cutter, the wood behaved itself where the silver steel didn't. Now about to pin and epoxy it on. Then make the rudder skeg and think about fitting the rudder stock. Now then, where did I put me camera .... All the best, Doug 😎

Spektrum, new, useless... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi Martin, First your last question😉 "What DO you do with a 3rd channel?" Example: 5 foot destroyer! 1 Throttle. 2 Rudder 3 Gun rotation, servo and pulleys 4 Torpedo tube rotation, servo and pulleys 5 Smoke switch, servo and microswitch (Smoke could be linked to the ESC to free this channel for the ASDIC pinger!) 6 Split into four functions (by misusing the gear down lever on my Graupner MC-10😉) for Whoop whoop, Fog horn, searchlights and signal lights, NAV lights. All switched via a home brew decoder / switch board and 5V relays! Alles klar? 😉 Re the DX5e; If I were you I'd let a (supposedly?) Spektum trained guy look at it first. With luck he'll have a service manual or at least a circuit diagram, which I don't 🤔 and should know the binding procedure backwards. I could only do some rudimentary tests without the circuit diagram, and make some educated guesses. I could at least try binding it with a variety of Rxs, including my Spektrun RXs which all work faultlessly with my DX6. Up to you, will PM my address anyway. I could at least check, with a simple RF meter, if the damn thing is transmitting at all! Just thought - if you're going to smash it anyway ........ 😉😁 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS: 4th attempt at the prop shaft for the cutter also failed 😡 She just does not want to get her bum wet!! Too long 'on the shelf' 🤔

54 year old Crash Tender by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Thanks Martin, I'll keep that in mind. Be a while til I get to above deck fitting though. Ain't got no deck yet 😲 So, prop shaft made, tube glued in, prop screwed on the shaft. Now to glue in the rudder stock, 3mm I/D and glue and pin the new keel I made last night. Then maybe I can prime / paint tomorrow!? 'Die Hoffnung stirbt zuletzt'! 'Hope dies last' 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

54 year old Crash Tender by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
If you need any ideas for the working bits, let me know. I can't help with the lecktricks, but they didn't call me "Mekanist" at Wolfsburg for nuttn! Well little Lothar always did anyway. I've just tapped the tiller 2mm...because that's what I have!, so a flat was filed on the rudder shaft, so I don't have to tighten it too much. I ended work today on the CT by making window frames for the wheelhouse. Don't know why everyone makes them for the cabins too...they don't have 'em, just gutters, so I made them too from brass wire. Just watered the plants, so the cumfy chair beckons.

54 year old Crash Tender by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Brass bits finished today. Too 'ot outside. Mast, rudder tiller and aft jackstaff socket. Martin

Seaplane Tender 360 by Bryan-the-pirate Captain   Posted: 17 days ago
I have cheated a bit and asked a friend to look at changing the rudder about as the settable pond type is too small to be effective (see photo). also the prop shaft is rattling in it's casing so that looks like a replacement with a modern one too. Still unsure about what motor to use.