Hi Nick, was a simple answer to a simple question! The model / RX does not need to be connected and should not be switched on. You are saving in the TX not the RX. Could lead to some unpleasant results if you are fiddling with the throttle settings! 😡 Possible exception, setting rudder limits and trim BUT disconnect the motors just in case!! Cheers Doug 😎 PS I don't think that most sets will transmit when in Programming mode anyway. Haven't tried it! 😉
a 30"scratch built pt. boat, I built hull from .8mm ply using a resized eezebilt 20" plan. the deck fittings were copied as best as I could from photos and drawings found on line. powered by 2- 2200kv brushless out runner motors through 2 20 amp speed controllers. twin contra rotating props twin rudders fast and light a pleasure to build 2
Hi Doug Micro and mini servos are great until they break then they are a bin job. That Hitek has a broken drive to the internal pot. I have looked inside and could hardly see the components let alone repair. Had two go on my RG65 yacht. Early bad design of the rudder shaft which rusts and causes the servo to overheat, mine actually melted and the motor was welded. Now replaced with a standard size servo, plenty of room and not really a weight problem as I use a LiOn 6v battery and switch mode supply. 6V burns out the micro servos, as happened with my first servo in the RG65. If it has a 6pin plug it probably is an early Bonner servo. Doubt it will work with modern kit. Might be a collectors item so you could try flebay Good to hear you can upgrade the Flysky/Turnigy sets to 10 channel. Does it support s-bus as this will allow even more channels? Dave
Hi Wayne, Yep! Uses two sticks instead of just one! For independent control of two motors; port / starboard. Or more e.g. four screw carrier model; Two each side! Expensive on ESCs and the wiring can get complicated but very manoeuvrable. Just like a tank driver has independent control of his tracks. I think I will experiment more with mixer boards to support the rudder on my twin, triple and four screw monsters 😉 Cheers Doug 😎 PS where have you incarcerated poor Donald?? 🤔 😭
Hi - I'm new to building - I have purchased MMM "Canning". I hope I can get some tips and know how from the many members on this site. - I have cut many parts from cardboard as templates. Looks like I have to build rudder and place motor in position before too long. Any advice gratefully received - thanks. Paul - Australia
Hi All, Diodes: - Trillium is correct of course, although some ESCs have a 6V BEC. Some RXs work off 3 - 3.7V for 1S LiPo operation in small boats. Not the case here. 😉 As for stability I would guess that you get what you pay for! Cheap unstable, expensive stable!? Higher current versions with a switched supply? But the diodes are the only way to achieve the situation posed in the original question. Personally I wouldn't do it for all the reasons listed above. In RHs case seems to me the port ESC fault shot the BEC and robbed the RX of it's power supply resulting in total loss of control.😡 That's what shut down the stbd motor (ESC went Fail Safe) and why I asked if the rudder still responded; "No answer came the stern reply" 🤔 Why it may have failed Dave-M knows better than I, more practice! 👍 Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Dave, I heartily agree. Why tempt fate? I have just bought a dual ESC form Hobby King to test with my destroyer. Otherwise the only advantage I can see in having 2 ESCs is if you want to use tank type control (2 sticks) to give power assisted steering! (Or mix with the rudder control?) If redundancy is the objective then a separate RX supply with NO BECs connected is the best bet. Happy sailing all, cheers Doug 😎
Only if you put a blocking diode (rated for the BEC max current) in the positive (red) BEC lines to stop the BECs feeding back into each other. Otherwise you may damage one or both of the ESCs. Not quite sure how the RX would react but I think it would be OK (may depend on the manufacturer /type) and you would have the double current capacity available for servos and functions. Test it on the bench first !! Generally speaking you are right, and this is a problem I might be facing shortly with my twin screw destroyer Hotspur and quad screw cruiser Belfast! The more elegant way of course is to fit a Fail Safe switch which connects either the other ESC supply or a separate battery if the primary source fails. Such switch modules are available (at least here in Germany!) for a few quid. Cheaper than a damaged or wrecked boat! BTW: was the RX still doing anything? Rudder control? Not quite sure why the stbd ESC shut down if the fault was in the port unit! Cheers Doug 😎 PS That's one of the reasons I prefer a separate RX batt when space and weight allow!
Hi nutrunner Sounds like you have connected the rx up incorrectly. Try unplugging the ESC and plug the rudder into the socket you have just removed the ESC from. Make sure you plug in the correct way (black is usually nearest the case edge), the ESC was in correctly but in the wrong channel. Now plug the ESC into the rx. Normally on a two channel rx there are three sockets 1 (rudder)2(ESC) 3 (battery connection) The battery connection only has two pins, so there is no signal pin which could explain your problem. If not the Eport lads will sort it for you Happy sailing Dave
I think those doublers will need explosives to get them off... I've hit a bit of a roadblock with the big K7, I need to get Donald built up so I can position the steering wheel & dash correctly, the animatronic resin upper torso & arms I bought came with no instructions or info on what servos to use. I got some micro servos & they didn't fit, Dremel out & all fits now but I'm now struggling with connecting the servo arm to the rotating neck. I'll suss it out eventually but I need a rest. I've been doing bits on my 1/12 scale K7 in the background, if all goes well it should be ready for paint in a couple of weeks. As normal I've been waiting for parts to arrive from China, the brushless motor & esc arrived today for the blue rigger, I can make a start on that soon.. I've just finished printing the parts for the cabin for a Springer tug hull I got from Sonar & I've just started printing the first parts of a WW2 landing craft, its 1/16 scale nearly a metre long, I guess I'll be making a tank for it when it's completed. Then there's the Robbe Diabolo, on the instructions it says to use self tapping screws to hold the plastic dual rudders in place. No good to me as I've upgraded to dual aluminium rudders, these buggers need bolts! Trouble is the waterproof electronics box is used as a doubler for the central transom, when it's glued into place there isn't any room to access where the rudder bolts come through the doublers, ohhh the joy of problem solving.... So I'm keeping busy but my butter is spread a bit too thin. Cheers Wayne
Hi Gents I received my drive line last night and installed it and the motor mount, also added a wood block for the rudder. Fibreglass it all it. The prop is a 50mm with 4mm clearance, but, I run 40mm props on my boats this size. Canabus
Working on making the static ship radio control. Props, shafts and struts installed. I have a huge 6 volt battery that should keep this thing cruising for a hour. Tried to put the props scale, but just did not work, it will be under water anyhow. Rudders go in next.
Well there I was with the Kingfisher motoring along on the pond when it suddenly lost power, nothing??? No forward no reverse. I could give the motor forward and reverse but no reaction. Fortunately the breeze blew the boat into shore along with me using the rudder control. Upon landing and a cursory inspection I saw that the universal nylon had broken off at the metal connection. But, upon the workbench it was discovered the motor mount had come off the hull structure. It was just totally free, it lifted right out of the hull after removing the speed control connectors. Maybe, it is time to replace the geared motor to a direct drive. Any suggestions? I use brushed motors.