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[Score: 8/10] 49" perkasa Capable of 8mph and a runtime of 60mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 45mm) Direct Drive to a mfa marlin (3 Blade) Powered by NiCad (12v) 8Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through self made ESC - Comments: Glass fibre hull, rotating gun turret with simulated muzzle flash and gunfire sound,rotating radar antenna with simulated radar screen,working lights,rudder system linked to motors via micro switch assy allowing boat to spin on its axis. Constructed many years ago been in storage over 12 years about to make its comeback.
Hi Doug Regarding your comments re Mode, this is only really for model plane fliers and refers to which sticks on a four(+) channel Tx control the throttle, elevator, ailerons and rudder. With a plane it helps when learning if you have a Tx set to the same mode as your fellow fliers as they can then safely take over control should the need arise. For a model boat it makes little difference but can be easily changed to suit individual requirements. Many modern Tx are now computer controlled (Taranis etc) and allow any combination to be reprogrammed so it really is very much a legacy issue. I made no reference to Mode in my comments on setting an ESC as it is usually the individual stick settings that cause the problems not which side of the Tx it happens to be on. However there are some Tx that have the throttle pre programmed to a certain stick which cannot be changed. Also over the years there have been many standards (but not all agreed as common) and some bits of kit do not work with that from other suppliers. Again this is now more of a legacy issue but something to bear in mind when using older kit. Hope this helps clarify. Dave
The speed control is a Duratrax Sprint, which has a heat sink built on. The props are three blade, one inch diameter, made to scale as is the rudder. I originally fitted a blue speed control, forgotten the make but very common. It had a problem, after maybe ten hours sailing, so fitted the Duratrax, new. The control gets very slightly warm to touch when run in dry dock so to speak.
"As an ex flier I do believe all engines had the throttle idling with the stick fully back and I have always associated forward with stick up leaving backward for stick down." This might be the clue! This is what I meant by TX mode. I note that Grandpa has a Spektrum DSM set, he may have it in Mode 2 the usual flier mode, as my DSMX 6 was delivered. If so first of all maybe switch to mode 1 to put throttle (full range) and rudder back on the right stick Channels 1 and 2. Then check the TX programming (offset) on Ch1 and centre it. Then worry about the ESC. Had a similar discussion a few months ago with Andy at Micron Radio Control about the set up for some miniature receivers for my plastic magic! Still getting to grips with programming the Spektrum. Until then all Sea Trials done with the old MC-10 40MHz kit. 😎
I need to make the foam tanks as two separately removable items to allow the deck to be removed for access to the rudder servo etc. The most intricate part of the foam tanks is undoubtedly the gratings that go over the top of them, fortunately there is a ready-made grating available that makes their construction unnecessary 👍👍. I bought this from modellingtimbers.co.uk, the grating ’WG7’ that they supply is dimensionally perfect for the job and can be easily assembled into the shape required. The casing for the foam tanks was made from a combination of materials, the base is 4mm ply, the back is 2mm ply, the front and sides are 2mm plasticard and the top is 1.5mm plasticard. The grating panel was assembled to the correct length and width for the scale and bordered with some 3mm x 4mm mahogany strip, the grating does not run the full length of the foam tanks and there is a plain section to the rear which will be a plasticard infill. The wood and plastic panels were all cut by knife and only needed the edges trued up with a small plane. All the joints were fixed with superglue with a reinforcing piece on the inside of the joint for strength. At all stages the assembly was checked for square and size and dry fitted in the deck well to check for fit. The grating panel was sanded to a smooth finish and a light mahogany stain applied to just the outer mahogany frame as I quite liked the contrast between the light and the dark woods, they were then sprayed with several coats of satin lacquer and set aside to dry. Before glueing the tank tops in place some short bracing pieces were fitted for rigidity. The tanks were given a rub down with fine abrasive paper as a key and sprayed with two light coats of grey primer and then a final paint finish of BS631 RAF Light Grey, the same as the rest of the superstructure. The two infill panels were painted the same and then epoxied into the grating panels. Before fixing the gratings to the top of the tanks some mahogany trim was applied to the tank sides. I need to devise a method of holding the tanks in place on the deck, probably with some of those small but tenacious little magnets that can be let into the bases of the tanks and concealed on the underside of the deck panel. I’ll need to make the suction hoses soon and that will involve a bit a brass turning by ’you know who’ so I’d better get busy with some engineering drawing for the man with the lathe 😉
Yes Dave I had the boat in the swimming pool and holding it stationary. The water pump was running with a good flow of water before and after the fire. I just had a thought maybe there was to much turbulence from the prop around the water intake which is behind the rudder stopping the water flow when the motor was running at speed . I couldn't see the out let as it was on the side away from me. Maybe i will have to move the inlet or something. Cheers Allan
Vosper 46 RAF Crash Tender Kit plus 95% of the items required to complete the model. Brand new kit, motor, prop shaft, batteries, controller, glue’s etc. Unfortunately due to an unforeseen illness It’s looking like I will not be able to start the build so if anyone would be interested in buying the lot at a discounted price please message me? I could travel up to 100 miles from DE15 to deliver or meet to complete a deal if anyone is interested? Thanks, Ian. Courier may be possible at cost. WHATS INCLUDED: The Vosper 46 RAF Crash Tender Kit Boat ESC Programming Card 90A Boat ESC 4A SBEC 11.1V 5000mAh 35C continuous discharge lipo battery x 2 Tornado Thumper V2 4260/06 500KV - Brushless Outrunner RC Motor Canopy Glue Formula 560 Prop Shaft - 13" Maxidrive ( 8mm Tube/5mm Inner ) Universal Joint Propeller Propshaft Oiler Clamp Kit XL Brass Rudder Waterproof Toggle Switch Propshaft Grease ZAP Z Poxy Dual Power iMAX B6 AC Lipo NiMh RC Battery Balance Charger/Discharger Woven Glass Twill 100g 1m Wide x 3mtrs 30 Amp Inline Mini Blade Fuse Holder & Fuse (Splashproof) Flexible Silicone Wire Cable 14AWG Red & Black 5 Pairs XT-60 Male Female Lipo Battery Connectors Plugs I believe this is an amazing buy at £295
Painted the outside of the hull yesterday with the only orange Paint I could find in my relations shed . Just enough to do the job.. Dry fitted the engine and the servo just to see if I would be able to marry up the engine and the servo and Yes looks like it will work. The rudder is now on the engine instead of a dummy prop that would have done nothing and would not have been seen in the water anyway. The opposite hatch in the splash well is where I will place the on and Off switch Just looking about for some foam for the sponsons now.
If they're turning inwards they (or better the water flow) 'meet' above the shafts, conversely: outwards = below the shafts where it disperses more easily, and probably also mostly below the rudder 🤔 Of course the hull form at the stern plays a major role. Which is why most modern fast naval vessels have a relatively flat hull at the stern if the only have one rudder. (Spent the last 31 years designing integrated COMMS systems for naval ships so have seen several such plans and GAs and many ships during the build.) With two rudders (1 per shaft) it's different. Classic example RN vs KM 1935/36 destroyers in WW2: RN 2 shafts 1 rudder; KM 2 shafts and 2 rudders. Giving them much better rudder response & manoeuvrability. Your comment re Contra is spot on 😉 Cheers from Munich.
So I have been doing some paint priming and still messing about with the outboard.. It now has the rudder dry fitted and it will not be seen above the waterline.. Most of the shaping is done now And I have cut out for access hatches to both to fit and get to the servo. The hatches I have got are semi waterproof and come off of some wet wipes. Now all the shapes are about right I will just carry on with a little more. And start looking about for the foam for the sponsons and some paints. This I am sure is going to be very light so with the electrics as low in the hull as possible and the foam tubes I have no Idea how much little ballast I will get away with...
Hi from Munich, basically if you have two props and only one rudder you want to get maximum force (i.e. water pressure) on the rudder. Therefore the props should turn inward to concentrate the flow over the rudder. The Admiral's experience confirms this!! My own experience with a 1:72 scale H Class destroyer (136cm) was the same. 😉 Cheers Doug 😎
I have been messing about making the rough shape of an outboard engine for the fantastic plastic rhib I have started. I am now thinking rather than make the bottom section of the balsa wood motor I would use the whole motor as the rudder. The bottom section would be the rudder the middle and top section would be seen above the water line. I may be able to fit a servo to one side or the other inside the Splash well and connect the servo to the front of the motor engine housing. That way I will Not have to fit an additional rudder . The rudder will not be seen when the rhib is in the water but the engine will swivel from side to side as the rudder is moved via the servo. Any better ideas ?
Hi Dave. The servo arm is still slightly higher than the tiller arm so I thought I could use a ball joint below the servo arm to remove the offset, but I do take on board your valid comments. Perhaps I should just incorporate a crank in the push-rod and keep the clevises? What amount of rudder movement should I allow for on this boat? Thanks. Rob.
Nice model of the Caldercraft Milford Star finished to a high standard and ready to sail, just needs Tx/Rx. 12v 3.4amp SLA, Mtronic ESC, Rudder servo, Low drain Motor, Technics Steam sound unit and speaker. £200 Collection only from Biddulph, Cheshire, UK area.
The tow hook stays brace the tow hook by tying the tow hook deck to the keel to transfer the load when the boat is towing a seaplane and is a simple structure on the full size boat but as scale feature is quite tricky to reproduce. It also has to be made to allow the rear well deck to be removed for access to the rudder servo etc. so this took a bit of thinking about how to make it easily removable.🤔 As my brass working skills seem to be improving I decided to make this in brass for strength and durability. Mike Cummings at Vintage Model Works had previously very generously supplied me with a set of drawings which included the tow hook detail and these were of great help in the making process.👍😊 First I marked out the fixing plate on some 22 gauge brass and cut and filed it to the correct shape and then two pieces of 6mm brass tube cut to the correct angle where they meets the plate. After some measurement and geometric juggling the cockpit deck was marked with the positions of the holes that the bracing stays pass through and I used my brass ‘cookie cutter’ to make two neat holes through the decking planks for the flanges that the stays pass through but in this case the tubes will finish just below deck level to allow it to be removed. These flanges were made from some 14swg brass plate, filed to a circular shape and with the centre hole pierced and filed to an angle for the tube to pass through with a small clearance gap to allow them to hinge on the two brass pins that I drilled and inserted into the flanges. This hinging feature allows the towing stay assembly to hinge back slightly to aid removal. I drilled the upper ends of the tubes where they meet the fixing plate to take two brass pins that will hold the parts securely in place while soldering and two temporary brass bracing pieces were then soft soldered to the tubes to hold them at the correct angles and separation. All the parts were thoroughly cleaned and assembled and silver soldered together and then the soft soldered braces were removed and the whole assembly cleaned up with abrasive and wire wool. Two false bolt heads were soft soldered to the plate to add a finishing detail, the centre fixing is a cap head threaded screw that fixes the assembly to the cockpit bulkhead. I sprayed two light coats of etch primed and when dry brush painted the whole piece with two coats of ‘gun metal’ grey. Happily the part sits perfectly in place on the deck and hinges back easily as intended so that removal and re-fitting is simple…unlike the process involved in conceiving and making the part 🤓