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>> Home > Tags > rudder

rudder
rudder mount
twin rudder
rudder
Fantail Completed! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 hours ago
Fantail is now completed. It's actually removable. To gain access to the rudder post and linkage!

Caprail and Rubrail in place! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 hours ago
I have glued the Caprail on. Have to use the Bondo (p38)again! There's quite a few seams. from where the caprail joins together! Rudder is in place as well. I have temperarily placed the bollard on deck. To see how they look! In place is the dowel. that will be used as the stem post at the bow.

Planking almost very nearly finished! by Bobatsea Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 1 day ago
Looking good I set the rudder shaft the same as you,...

Stern Seam! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
I had to bondo the seam on her stern. And around the rudder tube. Sanded it down to make it look flush! Also had to bondo her stern as well. Her stern looks nice and even know!

Billings Sea King by AllenA Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 27"/900g Billings Sea King Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 25mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 40mm) Direct Drive to a 2 x Como Drill (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese 320a Fan cooled (10Amps) ESC - Comments: Found at a Boot Sale in a sorry state. Retained the 2 Como motors but replaced ESC with Chinese Fan Cooled 320a. Acoms AR-201 Rx, Futaba servo all linked to new old stock Acoms Techniplus Alpha 27mhz Tx. New rudder, original propshaft with new couplings. Hull painted in Hammerite Gold and Plastikote white. Retained orignal Billings decals. New stanchions and rails. Re-veneered deck and added some fancy balsa work. Plains well after contra-rotating the props.

Planking near finished by Skydive130 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Have added a few more planks over the last couple of days before and after bed as on nights. Gaps should be closed by Friday? Have also marked exit points for prop shafts and marked and drilled rudder mounting holes.

Deck Beams and Anchor Port's by deepdiver Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Doug Good point👍 I have just made more work for myself😆, my thoughts behind it was that I could see my fixing marking's when I started fitting the cross beams for the rudder servo and speed controller. All the best Fred

Rudder Post in place! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
First I had to draw lines from. One corner to the next. This was done to get the center of the block! But as I don't have a drill press. The hole I drilled is a fraction off! The tube that goes through the block. Comes out of the hull in the right location! 😁 I then glued it in place. And ran some polyester resin to hold the block in position.

Make shift Washer! by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
HI Ed, Just looked closely at your propshaft, if you can knock out the bearing cut a little of the end of the tube and refit the bearing, that will increase the clearance to the rudder without removing the shaft tube, good luck, carefully protect the hull from saw cuts. Mark

Test fit the Rudder! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Dave I know what my problem is. I was suppose to place the prop shaft. 1/4 out of the hull, I have accidently placed it 5 1/6th of an inch! So the shaft is a 1/16th to far out! There is no way I can correct this at this point.... I placed 2oz of resin towards the stern. To hold the prop shaft in place. And made sure no water gets in the hull! From know on I will measure everything twice!

Test fit the Rudder! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Mornin' All, Hi Dave, yep, I thought about that as well but wondered if the prop tips might then get too close to the sweep of the keel to the hull! My experience with brass washers on rotating parts is that they wear much faster, and if you file them they can themselves end up working like files🤔 I would go for stainless. Rowen: basically agree about the nylon, although we are not talking power boat here so it shouldn't be too stressed.😉 Happy shopping Ed. Cheers Doug 😎

Test fit the Rudder! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Rowen, I will have to take a trip. to the local hardware store. See if I can find something, washer wise!

Test fit the Rudder! by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi Ed I notice that your prop shaft sticks out from the hull which may be why the prop is so near the rudder. I treat all plans as guidance notes and trial fit the parts before final fixing. I believe we have all been in your position at some time or another! I agree with the advice already given and believe a thin washer and thinned locknut would give you the clearance you need. This isn't a speed boat so there will not be much stress on the set up but my preference would be brass, its easy to file and won't rust. I have in the past reworked the propeller boss but its not really a good idea, and does tend to spoil the looks.

Test fit the Rudder! by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Hi, would prefer to see something like a stainless or brass washer. The nylon might pick up and tear, then metal to metal contact would occur. The washer has to take both the propeller thrust and rotation, so needs to be quite robust. I doubt thin nylon would last very long, it could also heat up and extrude under load. Rowen

Test fit the Rudder! by figtree7nts Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Thanks Rowen, Doug, I don't want the prop shaft to grind against the bearing. Now I realize this! I shall try my best to find a washer that's the proper size. that's half as thick as the nylon washer.👍 Or can I grind the nylon washer. to half it's thickness?