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>> Home > Tags > rudder

rudder mount
twin rudder
Vintage style yacht designed by "Vic Smeed" by lhpen Lieutenant   Posted: 9 hours ago
Any one interested in buying my Yacht ? ''Starlet'' Vintage style yacht designed by "Vic Smeed" all plywood construction, 11" beam x34" length, sail area 465 Sq inches. Complete with heavy duty sail arm large servo and rudder servo installed. Good sails although slightly marked and rigging. Install a receiver ready to sail.£135 Best if collected in person. Located in West Surrey.

Brixham trawler IBEX by samnewbie Seaman   Posted: 11 hours ago
Edward, Yes - thinking out problems is half the fun😊 My first build was a Vic Smeed Starlet - just completed. Pretty straight forward but I over engineered it to try out some ideas - thinking the ideas through was great fun. So although I will not start the Cariad until January I'm trying to explore problems now. The angle of the rudder shaft is one that I think I have a solution to. Take it right through the deck then put a handle onto it, hinged at the shaft so that it does not rise and fall as it is turned. Then a Bowden cable from each side of the cockpit to power the steering. I will enjoy building a mock up and trying it out! As to the rudder, I am thinking of a detachable extension - downwards. I'm also thinking about placing the prop to one side - perhaps more authentic but also well clear of the rudder. One thing that I'm still thinking through is the access hatch. I see some builders move the dingy to the centre and create a hatch here but I like the clean decking on the original, with the dingy to the side. A hatch to the side would work for everything but the top screw for the detachable keel. Some more time dreaming up a solution. Thanks Sam

Brixham trawler IBEX by cenbeth Admiral   Posted: 13 hours ago
Hi Sam, Yes, a Monoperm Super I think it is. It is only small as I reckon the original would only have had a small motor. I had issues with getting the rudder to work because the rudder shaft is at an angle. Another thing I'm anticipating is the size of the rudder; it may need to be increased in size. I think that thinking how problems can be overcome is half the fun! Edward

36" Thames River Police Launch by Robbob by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
After the successful build of the ‘Vintage Model Works’ RAF Crash Rescue Tender I was asked by Mike Cummings of VMW if I would undertake to build a prototype of their new model with the aim of checking the construction method and the assembly instructions for accuracy before the kit is put into production. The model is a ‘Thames River Police Launch’ and is based on the original design by Phil Smith for the Veron company, this was a very popular model kit in the late 50’s and 60’s and sold for the princely sum of 43 shillings and tuppence, approximately £2.15 in today’s money but an equivalent cost of £48.50 in 1960. This design has been updated to accommodate electric propulsion and radio control by Colin Smith, the son of the original designer and it has been re-scaled to be 36” in length where the original was 24” which gives much more scope for detailing and provides more ‘hiding room’ for the drive, control systems and all the associated wiring. The kit produced by VMW uses the same construction techniques as the original and the materials are a combination of balsa and plywood both of which a laser and CNC cut for precision. The ply and balsa materials supplied are of very high quality as one would expect from VMW and all the stripwood for the chines, rubbing strakes and deck detailing is included, even the dowel required for the mast is in the box, very comprehensive! The kit also includes white metal fittings such as the fairleads and stanchions, and the searchlight and horns. The glazing for the windows comes in the kit too. The instruction sheet supplied is in need of revision as it is largely taken directly from the original as written by Phil Smith and some of the terminology needs updating, for instance the ply bottom and side skins are referred to as ‘strakes’ but I understand that a re-write of the instructions is in hand along with an updated plan showing the best positioning for the motor, prop-shaft, battery, ESC, receiver, rudder and servo. During construction I have added a few additional pieces of ply or balsa as reinforcement or supports and substituted some balsa parts for ply where I thought a stronger material would be better. I also added some hatches to give access to the wiring at the bow and the rudder & servo at the stern but largely I have not gone ‘off plan’ to any extent. The pictures show the model in it’s present state (Nov 2018) and is ready for painting and finishing.

BRAVE BORDERER - BRUSHLESS SUMMARY by jbkiwi Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
The only thing you might have to watch out for is back feed from the pump out the aux tube (when moving) if you don't set up the y joints (must be y not T ) to create a venturi effect from the pump side. Doesn't matter standing still but at speed a T junction might reduce the flow as the flows will be fighting each other slightly. The beauty of the twin system is that if you are running a lot at high speed you could turn the pump off to save power. The best place to position water intakes is I have found is directly behind the prop (I usually just squash the brass tube slightly, fair it, cut it off at 45 deg and set it to just sit in the prop wash). At lower speeds especially, the prop will help to push water into the tubes rather than just relying on speed alone. Never had a problem with pickups interfering with rudder effectiveness as long as you fair the pickups nicely

Update 2 by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi All Installed the rudder with oiler, also installed the 60 turn motor with metal joint from banggood. Installed the 4.5KG servo with linkage to the rudder. First coat of Matt 37 which showed up a few spots that require a bit of filling. Canabus

"Surfury" Stern Name by vortex Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
try SHG Marine Jerome moulded a 36" gf hull in the 70`s and he had some decals in stock, depends on your scale of course also had cleats, offset rudder, wheels etc

B-25. 11" Bing 1918 Tin Submarine Restoration by mactin Commander   Posted: 8 days ago
Hi alan, the only pic I could find of the boat was this, there are no planes on the rudder of fwd? so either they've been broken off or they were never there? I know they did make just surface runners. Neil.

B-25. 11" Bing 1918 Tin Submarine Restoration by mactin Commander   Posted: 9 days ago
Ahoy Mateys, 1918 Bing tinplate clockwork submarine restoration. Only got the hull, no motor,superstructure or rudder so all that had to be made plus hole filling and dent removing its been an interesting project,much easier building my own from scratch! I'd say it was 70% original and that's good enough for me. Cheers.

Must get the skins on before I pull all of my hair out!! by MouldBuilder Captain   Posted: 10 days ago
The rudder tubes are set in place as are the prop shafts.😱 I have had a quick look and it appears that the shafts are very slightly closer to the keel than the rudders.🤓

Must get the skins on before I pull all of my hair out!! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
OK, props outward turning. I assume you've already fitted the rudders, correct me if I'm wrong. Cos if not you have some wiggle room how you fit the rudders (in or outboard of the shafts) which affects the rudder efficiency and can reduce the braking / dig-in effect a little. Let me know and I'll check my notes which way the offset should be. Can't hold everything in me bonce! As Einstein said- "The brain is for thinking, not for storing facts, but to know where to find the facts"! All the best, Doug 😎

Must get the skins on before I pull all of my hair out!! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi Pete, Basically yes. There are some other tricks with twin screws, not least engine assistance using a twin ESC with rudder mixer. Also the screw rotation makes a slight difference, and the rudders are usually slightly offset from the shafts, depending on the screw rotation. Are yours turning outwards or inwards? Referred to the top of the screw looking from aft while going forward. Cheers, Doug

Must get the skins on before I pull all of my hair out!! by MouldBuilder Captain   Posted: 10 days ago
Thanks Doug. Does this apply to twin rudders also. Thanks.😊

Must get the skins on before I pull all of my hair out!! by MouldBuilder Captain   Posted: 10 days ago
Is there a correct angle, plus and minus of centre, that a rudder should move. If there is a norm, is this the same for twin rudders or is there a different set of rules.🤓 Thanks.😊

Veron Veronica yacht by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi all, just wondered if anyone has a Veron Veronica yacht and has any information about sailing it or any tips for the rig. I have one and I was thinking of just rudder only RC on it. Martin