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Hi All The boat had the rudder completely vertical to start with and that is the problem. With the rudder vertical the boat pulls the bow down in the turns which makes it sit up on the chine. A planning hull attack angle is about four degrees to the water, but these boats like an angle of about six degrees. The leading edge of the rudder and the angle of it governs bow lift or dip in the turns. Also the balance point of the boat is as important as the rudder setup. Canabus
Thanks for info Doug. Unfortunately several of the websites get error messages or have dropped access to the address. I think the Sturrock plans route seems to be the way to go (a pricey plan though for our horrendous currency exchange rate!) and was the source of the Ralph Wilmot model. Looking at some of the pics of the rudder layout when she was on the hard pending being put into the Maritime Museum, she had twin props and twin rudders...Sturrock didn't have twin rudders so obviously was built to the Sturrock plan. I have sent off a few emails and await any further guidance/info before I make any decisions. Thanks Glyn re Durban Club. I have mailed a member too.
Hi. Been watching this build progress and the discussion. Having seen the recently posted pictures of the rudder installation it appears that your problem is probably caused by the rudder aspect. From the photos it appears that the rudder post is not mounted completely vertical. Thus when the blade is turned by the servo this will create an aileron or elevator effect on the water flow. Things behave very. Much the same in water as they do in the sir. Regards Kevin
Hi A few pics of my modify setup, no pics before hand. Moving weight fore or adding ballast works better than wedges. Only tested the boat by myself and I gave it a real workout. Motor 3639-1100kv, 60A ESC, 5800mah Lipo and 37mm 3blade prop. A 40mm 2blade works better and uses a bit less power. Rudder blade size 30mm across the top, 22mm across the bottom, 45 deep and the shaft 10mm from the leading edge. Sharpen the leading edge and the trialing edge flat. This catches are air in the water and send it to the surface. Canabus
Hi All I have finally fix the boats turning problems by racking the rudder forward 8 degrees and making a new rudder blade with the leading edge straight. The bow only dips slightly on the turns. Canabus
Reilly, Good Tip....I also use brass rod 3/16" dis. Easy to slot and solder a brass plate to, have never had a problem with bending, etc. I generally use them as a core and cover with plastic, wood or just leave as is. Joe
[Score: 5/10] 20"/1000g Debbie 1 Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 30mins Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type 35mm) Direct Drive Powered by NiMH (7.2v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Traxxass XL-1 (5Amps) ESC - Comments: This Billings model was probably one of the first R/C models I ever built the speed control is a Traxxas XL-1 2 Channel am Airtronics transmitter . I took it down to a pond at Confederation Park to test it with my girl friend turned it on but the rudder was hard over & I didn't see that the boat started going in a nice circle until it screwed itself under .I jumped in and there was only 3 feet of water & 4 feet of mud . My girlfriend ,now my wife thought I was crazy but after 42 years she still thinks I'm crazy .
Because I need access to the wiring at both ends of the boat I formed the framework of an opening at the bow to make the dummy hatch into a real hatch. In a similar way a hatch was formed in the rear deck which will give me access to the wiring, rudder servo and the ESC cooling. It’s going to be quite tight to get all that into the cavity under the rear deck but I’ve done a test fit and it will all go in but will involve some ‘keyhole surgery’ through the rear hatch opening when I get to the stage of installing all of the running gear…🤓. Both of these decks were glued and pinned in place and some packing tape used to pull the decks firmly onto the frames. The side decks were also trimmed for best fit and secured in the same way and when all was dry and set a small hand plane was used to trim them flush to the hull sides. The next stage will be to fit the balsawood blocks at the bow and shape them to the hull…..it’s the tricky bit I’ve not been looking forward to…😟
My batteries arrived, could not find locally so ordered through Walmart online. Two - 6volt 4.5AH, wired in parallel to give me 6v @ 9AH. Used inline fuse, prior to switch, then on to the esc, a Dynamite Tazar 15 T marine type. On/off switch will operate from outside so hatch will not have to be removed. Had some real nightmares trying to program this esc! Setup lights would not come on, went through all procedures, slept on it tried ecpvery website, tried again today, nothing. I was about to look into a new purchase, THEN LIKE MAGIC.... I mistakenly switched it to my zBrooklyn Tug mod on th TX which uses the same esc, and it startled me with the motor running and rudder moving. Everything worked great. So I just copied all of the settings into this build on the TX. HAPPY NOW Photo shows the mass of wires that allows me to shift the batteries for final ballasting, they will be tucked away neatly as build is finalized. Regards, Joe
Ron, It's tough to get a smaller boat to sail correctly, at least I have not had much luck. My cutter is 45" and over 30lbs, so I don't think my build will be of much help. Looking at your hull and keel design, typically the prop is in front of the rudder. You would probably have to cut out a half circle in the rudder, check out boats of this design... Joe
No offence taken Toby I assure you. Pleased to read that there are alternatives suppliers should you be looking at going with the syringe/needle route. Still think you should consider using something smaller than the 18g that I used on the demo. Best wishes to all on this thread for a Happy New year! Cheers