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>> Home > Tags > rudder

rudder mount
twin rudder
S.H.Grainger Formula Powerboat by vortex Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi Steve im not sure now regarding motors as they have water cooling cans on but Surfury runs from memory a 1075kva motor Turnigy 160 A speedo watercooled on 2x2s 5200 lipo`s in series ie 14.4volts with 52mm mocom Alum prop approx 3hp. I think the Tornado has approx 2045kva motor same speedo + lipo`s x 50mm nylon prop both do scale speed to as fast as 40/61 IC and look great on our choppy water with just prop and rudder in the water. Both motors will take 6s if you like ballistic? All gear from Hobby king. Try the IC first, post some pics please

HMS Cadiz by landie Seaman   Posted: 4 days ago
My dad built this over a long period of time, starting in the '80s. The hull is fibreglass and the rest is scratch built from plastic card, balsa, ply, wire and anything else he could adapt. Although he installed the motors, props and rudders he never completed the RC installation or tested it. I inherited his boat models a few years ago and wanted to "finish the job", getting the model on the water. After installing the RC gear and batteries over the last few months, this weekend was the first sailing outside the bath at the Valley Gardens boating lake. Happy to report that it sailed really nicely, seems to be reasonably stable although I did restrict it to calmer times when the MTBs and faster boats weren't running ! HMS Cadiz was a battle class destroyer, laid down and launched during WW2 although she didn't receive her commission until 1946 so didn't see combat with the Royal Navy, serving with the home fleet. Due to the changeover in pennant numbering she was originally allocated R09 and later, when the admiralty decided to revert to the D for Destroyer pennant numbering she was assigned D79. To reflect this my model has D79 on the starboard side and R09 on the port side. She was sold to Pakistan in the late '50s, and renamed PNS Khaibar. She was sunk with the loss of nearly all hands in 1971 in the Indo-Pakistan war.

Gypsy Sloop Jr. by Popeyepapa Seaman   Posted: 8 days ago
When I was in high school back in 1957 I built a kit of the Comet Gypsy Sloop Jr. In 2016 I found the drawings on-line for the Gypsy Jr. The boat was entered in woodworking class at our county fair where it received a blue ribbon. It has a working wheel that turns the rudder. Now I have under construction a 32 inch version that I would like to radio control. I'm not too sure how to set up or what type of servo to install.

Italeri P.T 109 by boaty Captain   Posted: 9 days ago
I bought an Italeri PT109 kit in 2011. It took 4 months to build as I had other projects on at the time. I notices the high quality of the parts, especially the hull and the actual paint finish was very easy due to it being plastic and got the nearest colour match by using Humbrol spray acrylic of Grass Green with Regency Red acrylic for the waterline and below. Difficult decision was as to build as a triple screw to maintain scale or go for the single screw. I eventually went for the latter with just one rudder. Power was by a 480 brushed flight motor with a 30 amp esc which was a bit over the top as power was by a 2200mAh 2S Lipo but the esc was the only one they had in the shop. Getting the motor installed was very straight forward as it was done before the deck was fitted but I had to make the aft cabin detachable for access to taking the battery in and out and also lubricating the propshaft .The boat performed well at scale speed but got slightly out of shape when full power was applied, appearing more as a fast electric. Overall the boat was ideal for smaller ponds (providing it was not running flat out). The outcome was a well detailed model that appeared like the real thing on the water but I would not recommend sailing it in rough conditions.. Boaty😁

Clean up and sand down by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Ok start by removing all I can from the hull, rudder, mast, stickers, stays. etc a) Sand down the hull and wash with white spirit. b) Fill scratches and re-sand. c) Reinforce mast position surrounding area.

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 9 by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Installed the three out-runner motors, I hope I never have to replace them. They have rubber mounting washers and nylock nuts and spring washers in M3. They are about half inch apart took a few hours to install with full access as currently boat has not been skinned. I hope to add small fans to the prop hubs to keep them cool Now have received the rudders and water scoops. they will be installed after the bottom skins are on.

PBR - Patrol Boat Riverine by SGray Petty Officer   Posted: 11 days ago
Proboat Alpha - ready to run, model of PBR, Patrol Boat Riverine, used by US Navy during Vietnam conflict, served 1967 -1972. Images show basic detail, 1/18 scale, with crew. Bow gunner servo is linked to rudder. Comes with Navlights, looking forward to a night sail.....some painting added to weather craft, as well as painting radar housing a lighter grey....and the canvas roof over wheel house....a little artistic licence with vessel numbers......Brown Navy did'nt always have numbered vessels....but could'nt help myself. Bravo Zulu Chaps😉

SLA Batteries! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
One last comment Ed then I'm done!! Your FS-T6 is the same as Conrad here in Germany branded HT-6 which is what I was using for my Sea Scout trials when I noticed that the rudder was reversed. Makes you think bassackwards while steering😲 I changed it in the model memory set up and all was well. 😊 Now I'm well and truly done. Later is the rest of another day !? Cheers, Doug 😎

Chine Spray Rails by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi William, First; it looks like the rail was not fitted according to plan🤔 However; my Sea Scout has no rails at all (Yet!) and as you have seen in your other thread on this topic she runs fine with the same profile rudder. BUT; I notice that your rudder extends well below the prop. Mine only to about half way down the lower blade and she's very responsive with no sign of digging in. Before messing up a nice hull I would trim the rudder back to at least the lowest extremity of the prop. Do another sea trial and if she still digs in a bit lop a bit more off, to about half way down the lower prop blade. 😲 Easier to mess with the rudder than with the hull 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

Still Stripping......With Care! by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Evenin' Neville, I told you you'd get the hang of it pretty quick. (It was either that or you'd burn the house down😲)😁 Seriously; I'm proud of you👍 You had the guts to give it a go and you're learning fast 👍 Hat off Sir! A few observations; (Colin might also have some at this point, had a very nice chat with him on the phone this afternoon - but that's another Encyclopedia Britannica!) #1 If the paint scraps are smoking the gun is too hot or too close, or moving too slow. Wind it down to 350 and see how that goes. Back up to ~400 if seems necessary. #2 Bow cracks; I see a bodge up there where someone couldn't bend the skin properly or, benefit of the doubt (In dubio pro reo!), maybe it was collision damage. Whatever; filler in a thin crack will always vibrate out again sometime😡 Try to get at the inside and seal it with two layers of fibreglass tissue well soaked in resin, EzeKote is what I used. Wait about 10 minutes before applying second layer. Then it should bond well with the first. When that has set (ca 20 - 30 minutes) then you can apply some fine filler from the outside. When set sand smooth and seal the whole hull outside with two layers of FG tissue. Sand smooth and if any bare wood appears apply wood sealer or EzeKote thinned with 10% warm water. Don't overdo the water or it takes yonks to dry and set - Yes, it happened to me🤔 Then continue with priming / finishing as described above; or look in my Sea Scout 'Jessica' blog for the fine details. The beauty of using EzeKote for all this is that you can get a whole hull done inside and out in one day and no mixing ratios to cock up😊👍 If it's any consolation to you; when I did all this on my fish cutter and PTB loads of filler went soft and fell out as well, and the 'goo' holding the prop shafts in my PTB as well. No sweat as I wanted to realign the shafts anyway! TIP: I removed all shafts rudders and any other protrusions in the way so there were no 'twiddly' bits left to make things awkward. Leaving the odd patch of sanded paint which is still firmly fixed to the wood is OK; as long as you can't feel a 'bump' with your finger tips and you are going to seal it with resin and primer anyway. Then it can't react with the new paint. Here endeth the 3039th epistle from Admiral Doug. Will all dissenters, contradictors and other lobbyists and Trump lawyers please queue up at the Spanish Inquisition Office next door. Take a number, we'll grill you in turn 😁😁 How do you like your stake? Cheers All, Happy building and renovating, Doug 😎 Now back to me fish cutter gearbox, mechanical gubbinses are not really my strength🤔 HAMMER, have you got a minute please!? (Viewing / reading tip; click on the thread title, then you can read the the structured version in paragraphs as I wrote it 😉)

Launch ELAINE, by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi Colin, Any pics of the control gear? Ain't seen plaited wiring and plugs and sockets like that for decades, and then only when repairing someone's ancient radio or 'HiFi'🤓 Attached pic shows working principle of the Kitchen rudder. Primarily for steering it would seem, not sooo effective for reversing😲 Cheers, Doug 😎

Launch ELAINE, by Colin H. Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
So far, only checked the engine, it ran using a little diesel from my car mixed with a few drips of methanol. Throttle spring broke and the flames from the exhaust were about 4 inches long but it sounds healthy enough. As for the radio gear I'm afraid I don't have a clue. Have managed to get the rudder nozzle gear to move using 6 volt battery, but all the connecting wires are missing. Lots of wood inside that needs attention, seems a bit too soft. Cheers Colin.

keel/hull info by Donnieboy Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
The Schottel drives rotate so you don't need rudders.Enjoy your build.

Launch ELAINE, by Donnieboy Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Very interesting.It looks like that assembly operates the Kitchen rudder.For reverse the blades close forming a cup behind the prop.

keel/hull info by green72west Petty Officer   Posted: 19 days ago
thanks for answer "bulkheads!!!" doug. I am not getting VSP units!! THE £200 each has something to do with decision. I am getting when "ready" Graupner schottel drive unit 11 [2335] x 2. What i would like to know, [i have 1000 questions] do i need to have 2 rudders???. thanks, green.🤔🤔