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>> Home > Tags > rudder

rudder
rudder mount
twin rudder
rudder
H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 hours ago
Once the rudder, propeller and shafts were installed, the position of the motors could be established. A light aluminium bracket to hold all three was fabricated and bonded to the hull. Due to the high speed capability of the brushless motors, particular attention was paid to alignment. Also kept to the shortest prop. shafts that could be fitted to avoid whipping. Although the motor type might change, whatever is best will require a sound electrical installation as the current requirements for each brushless motor could reach 50 Amps. Wired each motor and ESC separately with its own dedicated fuse to give the maximum system protection. There is an extra fuse section allocated for auxiliary circuits, such as a cooling water pump and lights. Will try the original planned layout of 3 x 2835 motors with 30mm propellers and a 2S Li-Po battery first. Am hoping the reduced voltage will also make these motors more tractable. For the test program the three ESCs will be each controlled from an individual Rx channel. Once the final layout is determined, a more sophisticated and flexible control system can be installed. To minimize ballast, particularly around the stern, the battery will be housed as far into the bow as possible. After the test runs the final battery type, size and location can be established. To assess performance, hope to try both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries. Planning to reduce heat build up by fitting cooling water jackets to the motors, these are easiest to instal at this stage so the wiring or mounts are not disturbed in the future. Have not decided the layout for the water circuit yet, but this easily can be added later. All that is needed now is the ice to melt off our local lakes so tests can commence.

I want my workshop back! by aanside Petty Officer   Posted: 13 hours ago
I already mentioned in another thread ("Any Clues") that three boats have been dumped in my workshop to see if I can find a buyer for any of them. 1) Caldercraft "Joffre" Tug, already built but in grave need of TLC with the propshaft tight and the rudder shaft too tight to move. The vessel is filthy dirty. 2) Billings "Le Pourquoi-pas", hull assembled with decks, remainder of kit & fittings look to be complete 3) Billings "Smit Nederland" Nr 528 - unstarted kit but does not have detail fittings I can post any of these boats and would appreciate a sensible offer for any of them - I do need the space to get on with my own work. Please PM me for any further information Regards Barry

Any clues? by aanside Petty Officer   Posted: 14 hours ago
"This is certainly NOThe the model of a Thames or Coastal barge hull" I had come to that conclusion. Researching typical twin masted vessels with that sort of beam (thereby ruling out most schooners) it could be a Brixham Trawler or some kind of ketch. One suggestion was a Moray Firth Scaffie but I need to go to one of the local museums to see if there is a model or a drawing. Interesting clue - the rudder post is carried above the deck. I guess half the fun is trying to see what I can make of it and then get it on the water.

Sea Queen by Northumbrian Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 hours ago
I was clearing the workshop and found the profiles from a Sea Queen i had built a while back & decided to build another i had some 6mm and 2mm lite ply lying around i used polyurethane glue & brass pins to put it together, the shaft i had is a bit short but a double dyco will do the job the next step is to put the motor & rudder in before building the cabin

Any clues? by commodore Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 16 hours ago
This is certainly NOThe the model of a Thames or Coastal barge hull The proportions are all wrong and it has a keel-a Thames/Coastal does not. Also the rudder is wrong for a Barge which .has the rudder hung from a stern post.

Any clues? by aanside Petty Officer   Posted: 2 days ago
The vessels mentioned in my last post have now been dumped in my workshop so they are available if anybody is interested. Le Pourquoi-pas has been started (hull & deck) looks as if most fittings are there but the workmanship leaves something to be desired. Joffre is in need of a lot of work - it is built but filthy dirty and needs a lot of work plus the prop shaft is on the edge of being seized and rudder shaft is so stiff I daren't move it The Smit Nederland kit is complete and untouched BUT does not have the detail fittings. If anybody is interested please contact me direct regards Barry

rudder and water cooling by boaty Commander   Posted: 2 days ago
Very nice model. The moulding looks of good quality and there is opportunity for a lot of detail to be added. Sailing at scale speed it will appear very realistic and should look great on the water. Boaty😊

WL 915 by CB90 Commander   Posted: 3 days ago
[Score: 5/10] 17"/1000g WL 915 Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 10mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 30mm) Direct Drive to a outrunner (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 1Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through unknown (30Amps) ESC - Comments: WL 915 ready to run Brushless 2.4GHz RTR Electric RC Speed Boat. This RC boat is capable of reaching speeds up to 25MPH and anti-capsizing technology? Features: •Electric Powered •Capable Of Up To 25MPH? •2.4GHz Transmitter •11.1V 1200mAh LiPo Rechargeable Battery •Balance Charger Specifications: •Length: 17.25 Inches •Width: 6.8 Inches •Height: 4.7 Inches I will be modifying this little boat as it has a few annoying problems they are: 1. The flood chamber fills quickly and once full hampers the boat in accelerating and getting on the plane. 2. You cannot run the boat slowly as the flood chamber fills 3. The self righting is not 100 percent reliable. 4. Binding is initially difficult Mods a. Replace cabin so boat lies flat when inverted. so able to use rudder extension to steer when upside-down. b. Racing rudder side position out of prop-wash and aids torque effects. c. Fill float chamber with foam so gets on the plane quickly. The cabin will be finished and painted properly after testing.

Speedline Thames Barge kit. by deepdiver Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Going on their advert it looks like an old H.F.M kit brought up to date, I had the H.F.M one back in 1990 that cost me all of £70.00, if I remember right I had to increase the under water size of the rudder. As for sailing I don't remember much as after a few times out, I found that sail boats just was not my thing. Sorry that I can not be any more help Fred

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Just to clarify. Shipping was only 7 days to Canada, manufacture slightly longer. Examined the hull closely and was pleased. It is dimensionally accurate and robust, but light. It had also been reinforced in strategic areas and trimmed to the correct deck line. My many questions to Christian Sheppard – Capurro of MTBHulls were quickly and knowledgeably answered. A company I would recommend others. Reviewing the build blogs and U Tube videos of the both the Brave and Perkasa models, shows most use either single or twin screws. The original vessel had a triple screw contra - rotating layout. Experience from others suggests the third screw just adds weight and complexity, but little to the performance. Nevertheless, it was how the Braves were built, so that was how it would be. Christian gave several suggestions for other modelers who have built this vessel. Contacted them and was readily provided with information and advice. The finished weight of this model is important and a target of around 6 lbs recommended for a 1:32 scale version. This is to achieve the potential performance. Plans for drivetrain are 3 x 2835 4500kVa brushless motors, direct driving 3 x scale 3 blade 30mm screws. Decided use a single Li-Po battery for the best performance with minimum weight. It was suggested three batteries, each powering a single motor would be the best layout. After some research, concluded this would introduce a weight penalty and was discounted. There are various ideas for the best drivetrain. Unfortunately none for triple screws. Decided the best approach would be to fit the bare hull out as planned, then try it. Leaving all the finishing features for later. A contact in Australia had already done this using a single screw layout and kindly sent pictures of his hull layout and then under test. Very informative. The positions of the rudders, propellers and shafts are established by the scale dimensions and were permanently installed. Everything else was to be temporarily fitted, so it could be moved or replaced if necessary.

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute by Richard7 Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 10 days ago
Yikes Frodo, I have just measured my plank lengths and indeed they are shorter than the hull approx. 90-100cm!! Considering two kits are identical this must be the intention of billing boats. Has anyone got and advice on this? I was thinking that it might be best to split the plank in half, glue the bow and stern ends first, then glue a plank section in the middle area? "We could do with some help here chaps". Another thing Frodo, do not try and fit the M500 motor I have!! (please see photos), stick with the M400 its smaller. As you can see in the photos my battery will not fit....GULP. Does anyone know if there is a smaller battery out there? The one I have is a 4405385 (Cornwall model boats P/N) 7.2V 3300 H. One other thing Frodo "DO NOT" fit the metal rudder post & item 16, if you do you will not get your inner prop shaft into the tube. The only way to do this would be to remove the motor. Probably best to leave the rudder & item 16 until you have fitted the motor & battery. Also I am finding the space in the hull is very limited for radio control, choose your equipment wisely. I am now thinking I must ditch the M500 motor for the M400 and then look at alternative battery size. After building the Boulogne-Etaples this St Canute kit is extremely challenging. Anyone out there with some suggestions would be a great help....kind of sinking here a bit (a few photos attached) Frodo if you have any further questions please let us know. Cheers Richard.

Smit Rotterdam by Neville1 Seaman   Posted: 12 days ago
Billing boats, which took me 3 years to build.Hull was planked and theh fibre glass. Boat has full functional remote with seperate port starboard control,rudder and bow thruster. full inside and mast lighting.

NDQ Modified by CB90 Commander   Posted: 12 days ago
[Score: 6/10] 28"/1800g NDQ Modified Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 10mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 30mm) Direct Drive to a BL 2845 2600kv (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through 30A gerneric (30Amps) ESC - Comments: NDQ cheap hull, ripped out radio replaced motors with brushless reduced size of props from 36mm to 32mm add rudder/ servo, trim tabs and turn fins also added strakes to the underside, foamed the hull to make it unsinkable add radio link radio modified to control both motors 2845 2600kv via SimonK firmware developed for drones brushless escs ( both motors run at same speed) 30A. Boat currently pulls 20A max total on 3s (240W total).

7th April by CB90 Commander   Posted: 12 days ago
Connect rudder to the mounted servo, servo box completed and glued into position, servo was mounted this way to leave the max height for rudder tube, as stern of the boat is narrow and when on the plane will be deep in the water. also the servo could be glued to the hull and the internal frame. Part of coupling attached, waiting for the motor! Also note some strengthening around the frame base, with right angled scrap. Reused cutaway plastic to make an inner sealed hatch this will be stuck down with ice hockey tape.

Bits n pieces arrived / Aft Deck Mk 2 built ;-) by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
6mm lime wood planks from Krick and 4mm tap from Conrad arrived on Wednesday so Full Speed Ahead. This time formers were made from the 6mm lime so no bending or slitting required, new piece of mahogany cut so that this time no inserts left an right were needed. 😊 Formers attached using Rocket cyano and a bag of clamps and left overnight. The 'Riva' tank filler caps were tapped 4mm and appropriate holes bored in the deck piece. Neodymium magnets attached to forward edge. Deck fitted and trimmed in situ for flush fit all round. Transom got scratched during this process so will need a respray🤔 Underside sealed with two coats of EzeKote and sealing / varnishing / lacquering process started on the topside. Last two pics show current status; So Far So Good.😉 Next step; fit windows made of 3mm green tinted acrylic 'glass', which also arrived Wednesday. Will now have to start thinking about what to do in the cockpit 😲 All I have so far is a 25mm ship's wheel. Furniture building is not exactly my Forte! First time for everything I suppose! Suggestions gratefully received!! Ciao for now, Doug 😎 Almost forgot! While waiting for varnish to dry I tackled an old problem with the rudder. Namely; asymmetric rudder throw caused by the rather bulky connecting rod binding on the rudder arm! Suddenly remembered I still had some E-Z Connectors from old aircraft days. Been hanging around for 35 years or so waiting for something to do! So replaced the old plastic linkage with 1mm spring steel rod and two E-Z connectors. Works a treat 😊