my wife got the book online from a company called Abe's books i think they had 3 or 4in stock ,it does have fore and aft rudders and is very symmetrical looking ,Aid was built in 1889 and worked out of Ramsgate ,I have only built static models before (3)so will build the hull and decide from there, I am attempting to draw the wheels using CAD and will hopefully get them water jet cut or photo etched at my work
Like your plan, is the book readily available, from the picture I take it that the tug has for and aft rudders, are you building with independently driven paddles or single shaft. Love the shape. Best wishes for a super build, Colin.
hi, I found on the net examples of electrical connection twin ESC. regarding the connection of the rudder servo with the Y cable to one of the branches for the ESC, it made me problems when reversing , and that's why I gave the rudder separately
As the stern needed the most reshaping, decided to tackle it first. Made up a wooden insert to reflect the correct deck stern contour and glued it in between the deck supports. This would give the stern be the correct shape and length. Once that was positioned pulled the hull up tight to the supports. As the stern is approached the sharper profile of the Teakwood requires the hull sides to be pulled firmly inwards and the transom be vertical. Decided this was not going to epoxy and stay in place satisfactorily once the strain was released, so cut a series of vertical slots in the rear hull to allow it relax and squeeze it together. One slot has to be quite deep, otherwise the lower hull will crack as it will not relax sufficiently. Used the Dremel cutting disc for this. The slots need to be quite generous as the the hull has to be pulled in some distance. Once this was all epoxied in place, wrapped “cling film” around the rear of the hull and poured liquid fibreglass resin around the slots and under the insert to bond everything together. Worked this onto all the vertical and horizontal surfaces as it set. The stern is now good and rigid. The attached pictures show the new stern profile and slots. The first pictures are “as is” to illustrate the process. Further work was also needed to true up the bulwarks and disguise the slots. This mutilation may seem a brutal way of getting the hull shape correct, but had tried all kinds of pulling and squeezing of the hull, none of which held in place after the clamps were released. Once the cosmetic aspects of the stern rework were complete, established the correct location for the rudder post and fitted it. The major stern work is now finished.
The best I can do is when I get a new battery put it in cross ways, the 3 sticks that I used for a test were already near the back, just length ways down the boat. I added some weights behind the rudder shaft that helped a little not these photographs. Some fettling needed next year when the season starts again. Cheers all
Hi, I have to say - I use a simple V-tail mixer only, and ESC at the basic setting, the transmitter => Throttle and Ail only(right stick). I tried to connect Rudder servo to this design, but I could not adjust it, the servo behaved "non-standardly". That's why I have it connected to the usual rudder channel nr 4 (left stick). One more important thing ... check the settings of the transmitter, especially the mixes that are sometimes pre-programmed from the factory. It is recommended to clear the transmitter memory first, and then set your own values. It usually helps ... I use the power supply of the receiver from a single source via an external BEC, powering motors using Y cables to ESC,from the same source as BEC ( gel Aku 12V).I had setup problems too - I finally found that one ESC was defective. after replacing both ESC no problems.
[Score: 9/10] 60"/7600g Schooner - Comments: Scratch built with mahogany planks on the club's mould. Glass cloth and fibreglass inside and protected with G4 polyurethane resin all over. Uses a sail winch (Hitec) and travelling dolly for the two main sails and a separate arm servo for the foresails. Standard servo for the rudder. Power is from a 6.6v 1000mA LiFe battery. Taranis Tx using two sticks with the sail servos connected via an internal mixer to one stick. Ballast is fixed to the keel with two studs which extend into the hull where a steel bar is attached between both and acts as a carrying handle.
Hi John I think its time for the bath test......half fill bath......run motors with model held up in air to make sure motors are running correctly.....lower model half way into bath props half in half out of water.... check motors still running correctly...then fully into water....motors must still run correctly.....they can't reverse when they smell water !.....can they? Can we see photo of props and rudders....the solution may lie elsewhere I love this problem it's a good un !l Berty
The mixer was used because the problem was present with a Y cable splitter. The mixer is Mtroniks WTail mixer and is connected to the rudder. Everything is fine on the bench even full both ways. It is powered by a fully charged 11.1v Lipo
Is the mixer connected to the rudder. When you test on the bench does it work OK if you move the rudder stick fully both ways?. I suspect the mixer is perhaps the culprit. What mixer unit are you using? What is your power set up re batteries? Are they all fully charged?
Excuse me, please -- in my case I have two brushed DC12V motors in my steamer Lulonga . I use an external HK mixer. (transmitter HKT6A V2, throttle on right stick) I control the model only with the right stick, Thr 3 canal=>forward and backward, mix with Ail 1.canal=> moving to left, or to right ) control is then very simple. I have a rudder as usual on can.4 (left stick),due to its little efficiency I use mainly right stick steering. I believe it is more simply, than tank steering. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azdS-40f_0whttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iS6F8y60BAU ...... I think a similar scheme could be used for brushless engines, even for propeller-driven models.
Hi Ned, Welcome aboard 👍 On my Sea Scout (little brother of the Sea Queen) I used silicon sealant (a la bathroom!) and a small brass screw in each corner. It had to be good cos I had the RX, RX battery and rudder servo tucked in there! My boat was also started by Dad in the sixties. He had it free running with a Taycol Target and wet (very!) 6V lead acid cells. I upgraded to RC and Decaperm motor about 25 years ago and am currently restoring and converting to brushless 😲 Happy boating, Cheers Doug 😎
Hi, I can't profess to be a Tug expert but I believe the general rule is 'Low revs & Hi Torque'. I hope one of the tug fans here will pick up this thread. Also this forum might be useful to you; a discussion on kort nozzles & tugs 'Fixed or steerable'. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1536288-Steer... style='background-color:yellow;'>rudder Good luck, let us know how it goes. Cheers Doug 😎
[Score: 5/10] 50" Robbe Diana a vintage M-class yacht - Comments: The largest yacht I own, and also the oldest! This meanwhile vintage M-class yacht is undergoing some minor updates to get her back in shape. What's new is all below deck: new rudder servo and winch with 2.4 GHz Spektrum reciever. She'll sail within two weeks; I'll add some proper photo's under sail by that time! (The last pic is showing a sistership)