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>> Home > Tags > run time

run time
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run time
Spektrum, new, useless... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Read further down and he clarifies that. Apart from that you can regard all brushed motors for models as 'In-runners' if you will! BTW: your last video was interesting, as far as it goes, for those into breaking the model boat speed record or competitive racing. For me the the boats themselves are totally boring, but that's just me 😉 I suspect that the majority of us here are more interested in scale modelling with a run time of more than 5 minutes. I believe Martin's planes are relatively small so I'm not sure if a small prop will be be a limiting factor. Choice will likely finally depend on the space available in the fuselage! Like I said 'Each to his own' 👍 Anyway, I'm convinced; leave the In-runners to the car racing boys😉 I only have outrunners anyway, even my Catalina arrived with two outrunners!! Mus check the 'Flying Wing' again😲 Thanks for the heads up! 'Tempus fugit' and progress too! Cheers, Doug 😎

Motor upgrade by Nobby-Clark Petty Officer   Posted: 7 days ago
Guys, hi I came down to hartsholme today to trial run the build and was made extremely welcome thanks greatly. Er motor widthThe motors are T4A from mobile marine they were extremely hot so prop size adjustment is needed. I am building again this time an inshore mine sweeper I have 50 mm graupner props on at the moment and am looking for a pair of motors to run off 12v LAB with 15 amp speed controllers per motor but cooler with out going to big I have 50mm per motor width allowance and 70mm length. I would like to keep up speed as inshore sweepers were fairly nippy 20knots real time. Is there any recommendations please ,apart from rebuild again. Regards Nobby

Longer run time by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Your question does not have simple answers have you used a watt meter to see the current your motor is drawing at full throttle? With any installation its a good idea to do that test since its a good way to match motor and prop. LiPo batteries have a better current delivery than lead acid BUT you do need to be careful about end voltages so as not to damage the battery. Many ESC have a voltage cut off built in to protect LiPo batteries it may be your hitting that limit with your lead acid battery. The simplest solution to your problem is to look at the Amp/hour rating of your existing battery and get something with a higher rating. Going LiPo can give a much higher rating with a LOT less weight. The downside being the need for a special charger and the need to be careful about storage and end point voltages. As to putting 2 batteries in series to get a higher voltage yes you can BUT increasing the voltage to a brushless motor requires you match the prop to the new voltage running on the existing prop will probably cook the motor. How hot is your brushless running now? Outrunners generally can swing a bigger prop than inrunners.

Windows, stoopid question. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Hi Doug, I dread to think what a Proxxon version of a Jacobs chuck would run to. They seem to be outrageously expensive things. I only have a Proxxon drill because it was on a deal too good to miss, but the electronic speed controller went nappoo after a few weeks, so I cut it out and wired it direct, so it's flat out all the time. Having said that it has tolerated that for literally years since. I also use the Proxxon transformer to power my other mini tools, which are all the much missed and very reasonably priced Mini(Maxi)craft stuff. I have a circular saw, orbital sander and disc sander and all are plugged into the Proxxon power box when required. The circular saw must have cut miles of deck planking by now! Cheers, Martin

Longer run time by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi, Lead acid doesn't like delivering the high currents brushless motors want. They are more suited to long term low currents. Go for a LiPo, 3 or 4S, something 7AH plus should keep you going for a while. Don't put batteries in parallel as one will inevitably try to charge the other, unless you have a hi power diode board in between them to prevent that. Cheers, Doug 😎

Longer run time by randhbarker Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 13 days ago
I am using 1 12v lead acid battery in my sea queen with a brushless motor. It’s only giving me about 15 minutes on the water. The boat will get up and go for a few minutes but after that I can have the throttle wide open but the speed has gone. Can I link more than 1 battery together to give me a greater voltage which I believe a brushless motor can cope with. If so which batteries should I use and should I wire in series or parallel? I await your thoughts Thanks

Windows, stoopid question. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Doug, sorry, I should have answered you last time on that. A good impression of a dummy screw can be made in aluminium with a piece of tube sharpened on the end so it looks like a miniature leather punch. Obviously better if you can do it with something you've done in the lathe, in steel, but you don't have one. SO....PM me your postal and I will send you something I will knock up for you tomorrow in steel. That will last you into your dotage, when you will be found dribbling into the geraniums with this little tool in your mitts making impressions on the window cills of Frau Schmutterputz's Home for Englische Modelbauen. You will be able to "sharpen" it buy running it round on a stone lightly, rolling it as you draw it backwards. Can't add to Squire Turpin's words at all. I have a slide tailstock on my wee Taig lathe which makes screw forming easy as the thread takes the tap/die as it wants it, square and true. The piercing saw has clamps for much finer blades rather than the relatively big fret saw blades which generally have a pin at the ends. Sometimes you'll break a blade at one end. Then the adjustability makes sense as you just re work the length and re-use the broken blade. Tight wads like me appreciate such things. Car booked in tomorrow for repairs. About £300, so not as bad as I thought it might be. It's passed for the last two years. Busy boy today as I sprayed the Crash Tender grey on its upper works and by the looks of it it just needs a few areas of fine filler and a rub down on the toe rails and one more coat then it'll be ready for the gloss sides and the hull proper. Then I even used my brand new saw to mitre the corners of the topping to Chris's new garden pond casing. It's a stand up one to save our backs. So now, I am gonna sit and watch shite telly, even shiter than normal as it is all infested by ball kickers playing grown ups and failing miserably . G'night. Martin

54 year old Crash Tender by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
Hi Boaty, right on MOST counts👍 But some of us have 'The knowledge' 😉 Check out my 'Sea Scout Jessica - Renovation' build Blog. There's a section in it where I renovate the Taycol Target Dad put in the Sea Scout in the early sixties, with two wet cell lead-acid accumulators! I also converted it to run forwards and backwards with a normal brushed ESC. How is described in the Blog. A few pics attached, from dismantled to reassembled with new brushes. Pic 3 it the test set up with Servo tester to simulate RX, standard Graupner brushed ESC and my conversion board connected between ESC and motor. Then two pics of the input waveform to the motor; forward and then reverse. Last pic shows the 'unconverted' waveform, complete with whopping great sparks 😲 I've now upgraded the Sea Scout with a brushless and the Taycol will go into a Danish Fish Cutter I am currently renovating and converting from static to RC. The Taycol's sedate performance will be more suited to the cutter which only plodded along a 8 knots or so 😉 Complete process is described in the Blog. Otherwise you are right, with few exceptions the current young 'boaters' mostly belong to the 'instant fun chuck it when it stops working throw away' generation 🤔 Cheers, Doug 😎 Martin; for yonks I did my warships in RAF light camouflage grey which mysteriously used to turn up in Dad's office in the Electronics Bay, of which Dad was the CO. 😉 A bright yellow for my scooter also appeared one time!

PROPELLERS by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 26 days ago
Hi Rowen, I agree with John 👍 Unless you have your own brass foundry the best we can do is turn the hub on a lathe, prefabricate the blades (making sure that they are identical form and weights!), cutting / milling slots into the hub and then solder - which is weakpoint Number 1! Then wonder why it runs rough and cavitates cos it's outa balance and uneven pitch😡 I suggest you leave it to the pros like Rabeosch who for about 15 bucks or so will give you a robust cast, balanced and highly polished scale or sports finished article. Weigh up the hours you will spend fiddlin' about against the price of a decent pro job. Especially if you need two or three the same for one boat. Only time I fiddle about is when I need small scale props for my plastic magic projects 1/72 down to 1/350! e.g. 4 for a carrier like Ark Royal or Enterprise at 1/350. There ain't nowt that small on the market. Cheers Doug 😎

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi, Doug: Somewhere along the way I must have messed up & given you some bad information. There are no connectors in any of the wiring that runs from the circuit board up into the deck house & pilot house. I think at some point I mentioned that I want to put connectors in the wiring which is probably what has caused the mixup. By installing connectors in the wiring I’d be able to completely remove the bottom cover of the deck house (with the circuit board attached to it) & move it safely aside without the risk of damaging the wiring. Then I’ll better access to the deck house interior if I ever need to work on anything inside. Anyway, I’ll use the needlepoint “+” probe on my pen-style multimeter to take all of the readings that are needed to avoid shorts. There are (5) pairs of wires soldered to the board that supply power & ground to the boat’s (4) LEDs & (1) bulb. I don’t think I’ll have any trouble getting the voltage measurements you need. I’ll get a sketch & voltage readings to you as soon as I can. Thanks again for your continued assistance.

What do you do when... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I've been pondering a neodymium magnet on a derrick on the stern of my Southampton tug and steel plates set into the foredecks of my boat and ships! Still pondering, reeling in with a winch is easy, running out the cable to drop the magnet down onto the boat is causing me mechanical headaches though. 😡 Maybe just raising and lowering a suitable boom would be easier!? Any ideas folks, especially amongst you winch using sailors? First time my destroyer conked out I swam out 'in me knickers' to rescue it cos the wind was pushing it towards the lake fountains. It's NOT a flying boat! Got a round of applause and some interesting suggestions from some of the er 'ladies' present 😲😉 Second time we had flat calm on a balmy summer evening and she started very slowly drifting home. So as it was early evening we went to the lakeside restaurant terrace where I could enjoy a steak and a glass or two while keeping an eye on her progress. Hard life ain't it 😉 Whatever, I'm sure there's a more elegant solution than more plumbing than there is in my bathroom! I even once used my sharp pointed destroyer to push a failed plastic RTR so called speed boat home. Took a lot of manoeuvring with a long thin destroyer but we made it. Once I managed to get it lined up and close enough to shore a good shove with all ahead flank then full astern let it run up the shore. Was good helmsmanship practise. A simple shaped rubber block I could hang over the bow would have made it much easier! Cheers all, don't get stuck! Doug 😎 PS One other 'Schnapps idea' as they might call it here in Bavaria, I've been playing with for a while is a model of the 'Big Lifter'. It's a conveyor ship like a big powered dry dock. To take on the load she floods huge tanks and sinks herself😲 slides under the load, pumps the water out again and up she comes load an' all! Would be fun wouldn't it?😉 All the bridge and accommodation superstructure and engine rooms are in the stern. At the bow there are only two tall towers for guidance when taking on the load. The rest is just flat loading deck. Sounds simple don' it 😁 an' a lot more fun than half the plumbing dept. of B&Q. 👍 PPS: I also tried the grab claw idea of Martin's. A sort of 4 prong grappling hook. As he rightly said the first snag is to get the line aboard the stricken vessel in the first place. I tried it with one of the depth charge derricks on the stern of my destroyer. Reeling in - fine. Getting the line out ? Another kettle of fish. I considered a spring-loaded system to fire the line out IF I could make the winch free run to pay out! Got no further than considering (the spring launcher I still have) before I completely stripped out the destroyer for a total refit. Thinks, thinks, thinks ......

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Doug, Thanks for the comments, you are probably right on all counts. The loose connection was more than likely caused by moving the wire to get it lined up once installed and the movement released it slightly. Rather like the terminal block idea though as it holds the wires in place, can now guard against looseness and corrosion by careful assembly. However, am mulling over the gold connectors suggestion, probably have some weeks to come to a conclusion! They are much lighter than the block too. The motors are on back order, am now resigned to waiting for them. It does give the opportunity to park the Brave and get some running time on my Teakwood, which has hardy moved this year. Rowen

Still here by Smiffy Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Just in case anybody wondered, I am still alive (!) but have had a very busy couple of months. What with the birth of a 5th grandchild, the baptism of my only granddaughter plus plenty of gardening and additions to my collection of bearded iris there has been llittle time for model engineering or building Miranda’s hull, although the engine is more or less complete and just about running on compressed air. Oh the joys of being retired - no time to do anything!

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Doug, what gave you the idea that I spent all that on my Spektrum DX5e? It cost me 45 quid from somewhere up North, brand new. The Rxs were, I thought, too much, so I got an Orange for 8 quid. I got the Spektrum because I was considering doing aircraft. 4 footers, scale, so not needing anything fancy, but costs of everything else stopped that. If they did a 2 function set cheap, I'd have had it. No chance selling the DX5e as it will have been superceded at least twice since I bought mine, probably at least once since I first removed it from its box! The Tx., isn't complicated. I was careful NOT to buy one that needed a degree in pooterism to operate. It's a toy boat fer Krissakes...go left, go right, speed up, slow down, stop, maybe go backuds, although my kind of real boats rarely do. I'd use my old REP single channel if some toad hadn't stole it. But it doesn't stand me in that much. This new Rx. which states DX5e compatibility is 7 quid. After that, if it don't work it will be back to the 27 meg. or nothing at all (much better exercise). As to the battery capacity thing, it is exactly the same to look at as the ones you linked me to, but, although it didn't say it didn't do Nixx, the fact is it doesn't. On the box is a row of x's where the facilities are shown under NiCd and NiMh. Sending it back would cost almost as much as the thing cost in the first place. In the unlikely event that I ever get any LiPos, it'll do for those. As to the NiMhs, I'll put them through a discharge recharge cycle on the imax thing according to what you and Haverlock have said. Then, just do the same when I've finished sailing. I use this stuff so rarely I suppose I should think again about whether to get any more stuff at all. Is it possible to constantly cycle the batteries during the long winter fallow period? Should they be discharged by running a motor or can one trust the imax to do the job? Once again, thanks for your time, Doug. I do appreciate your efforts to help out the Luddite. BTW, when I bought the DX5e it really was the cheapest option, trust me! Now, I'd probably get one of those cheapies that are sold by the same outfit I bought my DX5e from, but they weren't around then. Cheers, Martin

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Evenin' Rowen, So far so good, nice job👍 Let me go through your comments one by one😉 1) "Moved the battery towards the stern and, at speed, the forefoot lifts slightly clear of the water. The plane is now almost flat. The battery is not well positioned when near the bow." Battery in the bow is almost always bad news🤔 too much weight forward of the CoG or natural balance point when planing. 2) "The 2S battery used was a 4000mAh 30C; suspect this battery does not have the capacity to operate the model. Every motor will run up smoothly until a second one is operated. The first motor then “stutters” and a fuse might blow, this could be indicative of a power surge. Any comments from the electronic experts among the group would be appreciated." First the battery: you may be right. Especially with 3 x4500 kV motors Since you are using 3 ESCs how about feeding each one from a slightly smaller (lower weight) battery? Precondition of course is that all three are equally charged to the same voltage and capacity AND have the same (or very very similar) internal resistance! Complicates the issue of course and motors with a lower kV rating and one power source may well be the better solution😉 Second the 'stutter': How and when did you switch in the second motor? If the first was still at 'Full Ahead', i.e. 'Pedal to the metal!, I might expect the battery voltage to dip and then recover with the sudden additional load and a sharp rise in total current drawn. But no particular excuse for a sudden current rise in the first motor ! Where was the fuse that blew? I suspect in the primary supply lead from the single battery🤓 since with brushless motors you can't fit individual fuse in their supply leads like you can with a brushed motor. BUT you can to the ESCs feeding them!!! You can't get a power surge from a battery, not like a surge on the mains network due to lightning etc! But you can get a voltage dip and recovery if you suddenly present it with an additional load😲 3) "The 3S battery was 10,500mAh and 40C; with this battery all three motors can be run at full speed together and fuses do not blow. It was also very heavy at 1700g, holding the model down." All run up together to full speed or 'switched in' as described above? There's a big difference between a gradual increasing of load on a power source and a sudden step increase! 4) "The motors are 4500 kV. On refection, think a slower motor around, perhaps 2000 kV would have been a better choice." I did think at the outset that 3 x 4500kV was perhaps a little ambitious😲 2000 - 2500 sounds much better, and more controllable👍 Then you could also get good performance results with a single battery of capacity lower and weight 👍 The function of the third (centre) motor for 'action speed' would also be more pronounced👍 5) "Would concur with comments by others that a simple single or two bladed propeller layout for this model is probably best - that is unless you want to capture the true scale layout. The centre propeller seems to have little effect on overall performance, (see above re 4500kV motors- Doug😉) although it will power the model quite nicely when operating by itself. Have had several suggestions about how best to use the centre propeller. Will think about them and decide later how to do this when I start to finish the model." As a 'Scale Purist' (as far as my skills and tools allow!) personally I would frown on the use of 2 blade props, much less only a single prop. Do that in a fictitious power boat if you will, but for 'Brave Borderer' ? 😡 Do her justice please😉 Many three screw (😲) boats (including the full size originals of this era) only used the third motor for additional manoeuvring speed in action situations. My personal experience of FACs (Fast Attack Craft) and FPBs (Fast Patrol Boats) over the last three decades shows me that the three screw configuration has been largely dropped, especially since the introduction of much more powerful engines such as improved diesels and gas turbines. Many use a combination of diesel, for cruising, and gas turbine for 'action speed', so called CODAG, COmbined Diesel And Gas turbine. 6) "The 2 blade Hi – speed propellers both increased performance and current draw. The model is more than fast enough with the original scale layout." As I believe the 2 blade props were of larger diameter (and perhaps also of larger pitch) than the 3 bladers the higher current draw is a logical conclusion! Stick with the scale config! 👍👍👍 7) "Will purchase a lighter, 3 S battery as that seems the best choice for performance and weight." 👍 but don't overdo it to the other extreme by reducing weight and therefore capacity too much😲 You want a decent sailing time don't you? 8) "Testing using the bare hull with a minimum of detail worked well. For a models with a complex power train, this is a good approach as access to the internals can be gained easily. Nothing worse that finishing a boat carefully just to find the performance disappointing. Then having to to rip it apart to make major modifications or adjustments!" Heartily agree 👍👍👍 Bon chance mon ami😊