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Hi I have the Billings version as does a fellow club modeller. Initially I used two 300 motors with a 12v 1.3amp battery placed in the rear cabin space. Good for about 4 mins then died. I now use two brushless 28xx size 30 amp ESC and an 11.1v Lipo 2.1 amp. My friend has a similar set up. Gives about 30 mins and exceptional speed. The lipo sits where the SLA was. I can understand your concerns about the lack of warning on your Mtronic but you can source battery alarms that will emit a loud noise when the cell voltage gets below the set voltage. Providing you are paying attention you will hear and bring the boat home. The running time will be similar on each occasion so you could also use a stop watch (on your phone). I have tried NiMhs but they lack the power and are nearly as heavy as the SLA.
Hi Ron Specs for the HS-82MG are Motor Type: 3 Pole Bearing Type: None Speed (4.8V/6.0V): 0.12 / 0.10 sec @ 60 deg. Torque oz./in. (4.8V/6.0V): 39 / 47 Torque kg./cm. (4.8V/6.0V): 2.8 / 3.4 Size in Inches: 1.17 x 0.47 x 1.16 Size in Millimeters: 29.72 x 11.94 x 29.46 Weight ounces: 0.66 Weight grams: 18.7 It is metal geared but may struggle as a sail winch. A single arm servo usually has an elastic band attached to the other end of the line (kite string) from the servo arm. So you run the line thro the hole in the cockpit coaming and take it to a pulley attached to the deck in line with the hole and near the stern. The line then runs along the deck and near the front of the coaming an elastic band is attached and run to a fixing near the bow. You then use a line with a bowsie to connect the mainsail to the winch line via a fixing on the deck below the boom. There may be other ways to run the line but the important point is to keep the line tight at all time to prevent tangling.
sorry to bore everyone with repeated info, as a similar question was posed recently. I agree with the fact that shaft is too thin, it very much looks llike a fibreglass very light racing boat set up, now this doesnt mean you cant go fast with your boat, but you need components that are up to lugging a big heavy lump of wood around the pond, not a lightweight feather😊 I have 5mm shafts, less whipping. and I have oilers so they are lubricated with oil rather than grease, just my preference. You can get these shafts from shg marine, they will supply with push in aceteal (probably spelt wrong!) water lubricated bearings, real cheap, so you can change then every season if you want. The shaft has to be supported, where it exits the hull, just put it through another piece of ply, and fill the void with epoxy, and double up the former thingy it goes through in the same way. (pic) The prop you used is the wrong blade type, thats probaly why it fell apart, plus the soldered on blades are a weak design for higher speed, simon higging is one piece, but at this stage, still testing, you can get plastic "x" blade ("s" blade are less speed)_ props again from shg marine for a few quid each, then you can test a few different sizes. If you jump in for an expensive brass one, and its wrong, its wasted money. As a starting point, 35mm, 40mm and 45mm, if you dont have any way of testing with data logging etc, you are doing short runs, with the smallest first, and seeing if the motor gets hot etc, and what sort of speed you are doing. My brushless motors are generally 800 to 900kv, and achieve 25mph in four foot heavy hulls, you want lower kv for torque, not high kv high rev motors. I got into thsi 10 years ago, thwere was NO advice around then as it was new tech in boats so I learnt the hard way😭 When (if) you go to a brass prop, the "cleaver" blade design (pic) works well, I did extensive testing with my Huntsman and fireboat and was lucky enough to have Simon Higgins testing props with me on my boats, again because what I was doing, large scale boats, but going very fast, was unique, and the cleaver design was the best at the time. Forget the fear of lipo, and brushless, they go as slow as your throttle stick is pushed, 👍
Thanks Dave, Eventually we will have put together a body of knowledge that model boat builders can use with some certainty. At present the information is sketchy, hard to find and sometimes ambiguous. The motor designers and manufacturers have not been very helpful. For my La Combattante iii missile boat I used two Hobbyking Keda 720kV motors rated at 215 Watts and 19.3amps max. They were the first brushless motors I tried. I was not sure how many amps they would draw, so I connected an ammeter and fitted my video camera so it read the amps whilst operating. At full speed they used only 8 amps each. Each of the batteries is from 12V made from 9 x NiMH 9Ah D Cells. I easily get over an hour run time at good speed. The boat is 1605mm long so not small. This information may help someone.
Hi Graham, all agreed with you post. But. The last photo looks like the blades are soldered or brazed on, that is a week point, but looking closely the blade appears to have sheared of above the hub. Your hull is not really a high speed hull, so a racing prop might cause instability, i would suggest a cast prop, (propshop) and possibly 3 blades 40 - 45mm with your 1100kv motor would give good speed combined with good run time. The 5mm upgrade is also a great idea. A rule of thumb is don't exceed the diameter of the motor. Mark
I always use as smaller rudder as I can get away with. I had been running model boats for many years then one day when on Blackheath pond someone was watching my boat and remarked on how it turned. badly, and I replied that's how it had always turned. The guy had a boat the same as mine it was a MFA Spearfish, He asked if he could swap rudders on my boat and try his on my boat so that's what I done and it performed much better on the water. I then tried it on my Vosper RAF Crash Tender and it just stuck to the water on any turn tight or wide. So I have done this ever since. On my Huntsman I had turned it over several times before trying this so I done the same on this and once again it was a lot better turning and didn't turn over. I don't like using large rudders if I cannot get one small enough for what I wan't I will get one and then cut it down. We used to race 5 or 6 boats on the water at a time and always needed to turn tight turns to get round the pond. Even watching Power Boat racing on the telly in the past they make tight turns to get round. I have a Probaot Miss Geico tunnel hull and straight from the box brand new the rudder on that has no leading edge and I can turn that flat out on the water with no roll at all. I suppose I am a speed freak and it has worked fine for me. Even if it is the wrong thing to do. The small avatar picture on my posts is a boat I have in Norfolk. This has a 1960 Volvo Penta outdrive probably one of the earliest one's made and that doesn't like to turn on 3/4 throttle without the engine revs dropping and digging in on a turn. I have tried this when out on open water up there. Don't try it now as got a warning from the Norfolk River Constabulary. Don't want to loose my river licence.
Hi deep..., Don't know about 'used' looks more like THROWN IN' 😡 from across the room! Good luck, just don't hit the chisel too hard!! Try with a not too blunt chisel to get the bevelled edge under the rim of the c**p. Re: time to work... The fish cutter is well down the to-do list 😉 Although I have managed to clean up and modify my old Taycol Target field motor (removed from the Sea Scout) to run both forward and backward off a normal brushed ESC which will now go in the cutter 😊 My Sea Scout renovation is top of the list. She's now fitted with a new RX, shaft/prop and brushless and ready for sea trials, when the local lake melts 🤔 Then just cosmetics, mostly in the cockpit and after deck area. After that fit decent brass props and electronics to my HMS Belfast. After that .... we'll see 😉 PT109 needs a respray and electronics ... Graf Spee needs a new prop shaft stbd side ... Catalina needs electronics fitting ... Southampton tug needs putting back together ... 🤔 As a single pensioner finding time is easier that it was a year ago. The GF has her own abode ca 2 miles away 😉😉 Happy chiselling, Doug 😎 PS suspect the biggest mess from the cutter will be removing what looks like layers of ancient oil based paint 😡 Will wait for the summer to do that outside.
OK Understand, Is it a Desktop? Maybe a Laptop or Notebook (or even tablet?) would be more practical? I live in a small maisonette, 75m², living room, bathroom and kitchen at ground level. Two sides of the kitchen have become my 'workshop'! A small room in the cellar has become my bedroom (just call me troglodyte!) Garage is communal so can't do much with it apart from temp stashing stuff on its way to the recycling centre. I'm running out of space for the models 🤔 (shelf / vitrine building plan in progress) but the PC is permanently installed on my desk in the living room, close to the phone cable wall sockets. Modelling dictates!! I still think your main problem with the HT17 phone is incompatibility of Android 6 and the method the MB website uses to process uploads. Seem to recall reading about this snag in the Android 7 development and release notes. Hope Stephen can find time to investigate this cos I don't think you are alone with this problem 🤔 Good luck, Doug 😎
Hi John, you might now be scratching your head, and wishing you have not asked the original question! This seems to be a common issue, as the boating community is light years behind the other disciplines, rc cars, planes helis and so on, its probably due to the facts general boating doesnt really need the later generation technology, the average boater age is probably higher than the other disciplines so budgeting might be an issue, and there is less younger blood in the clubs to explain the lipo/brushless etc. We see posts with a load of numbers, specs, warnings etc, its enough to put people off. Im a big fan of brushless/lipo/ 2.4 etc, been doing it for years, its cheaper and more efficient (once you have the basics) but for the average guy, who just wants to spend an easy afternoon at the local lake gently cruising around, brushed motors, nimhs batteries, even lead acid, will do the job👍 Your 4 foot ply boat, once painted, with fittings, will be heavy, I know, I own one. Those 600 motors are not big enough, they are better suited to the smaller 3 foot boat, then, pushing them with a 6v lead acid, just cant do it. The battery will be screaming HELP!! I started 15 years back exactly the same, 600 motor, 6v battery, massive 50mm prop, I knew no better and took advise from people who didnt know what they were talking about😡, remember those gold hi tech speed controllers!! I had one, it melted, literally melted on the first use😭 Get 700 size motors, they will need to be water cooled, as mentioned by jarvo, the nominal voltage or below isnt good enough, power them at the max voltage. Brushed means you can use one apropriate esc, look out for electronize (are they still in existance?) or mtroniks, preferably use nimhs batteries over lead acid with a high mah. If after all this you want to venture into lipos and brushless motors, go to a club, spot a boat that is similar in size to yours, if you like the performance talk to the owner and gain experience and knowledge that way, it will save money, lost time and a lot of disappointment, I have been there so feel your pain. I say I would never go back to brushed motors and none lipo batteries, but I always want silly speed, not runtime, after 15 minutes Ive had enough and am bored. Rambling over! My 4 foot boat is twin brushless and uses 4 lipo 5000mah cells per motor, it will do 25mph for 15 mins, then I go home😁 Message is, you can get a "reasonable" performance from brushed motors, with the correct batteries, right props, but weight is the enemy. Looks lie you are at Biddulph, get onto Dave M a moderator on here, and arrange to go over to see the crewe and district boys on one of their sailing days, take your boat with you, they will help👍
Hi gents I too have the same boat and have the same question . I only have shafts and rudders so I am looking for the whole package. I know little about brushless too but I think a boat like this needs them. From the research I have done I can see 880kv twins with 2 60 Amp water cooled esc will Work. I would Like to know what brand motors I need and what prop sizes to and esc brand to get. I’d like 20 min run time too.
Dear Modellers and builders of the Vintage Model Works kit series. You will find my earlier pictures and various writings on the original earlier postings by me in OZ of my still some 30/plus years Crash Boat in which I wore out several I/C motors and my girl still runs in Salt Water at the local LAKE ILLAWARRA in New South Wales and you are somewhat fortunate with ready made fittings. I did not ever know of the "page" ( wish I had a copy ) on your wall of the rear well of fire hose details and fittings , wow what a bonus, as a colonial had several years till Peter Dimberline and I had contact and he helped me to authenticate my vessel. The ESSENTIAL secret of the Crash Boat is the spray rails. So many look toy in the videos and TOOOOOOO fast . The spray rails are doubled at width protruding from the hull and lesser at the point of "rise of the wood " towards the upper bow point. The depth is not too critical at a bit of about an eighth of an inch thickness or a bit thinner for the whole length as you do not want to see a "thick log ", rather again it is the width rather than depth. I know I have written on this before on this webb site in the past. The turns thus on the go become when starting on and STAY more on the go are more flatter rather like a full sized hull which has a planing/ flatter hull turn to the flatness of the water than a typical poorly behaving model boat hull which invariably heels TOOOO much and somewhat digging in , (in turns). The HARD CHINE hull design was meant to not only rise to a comfortable plane attitude but ALSO to turn without that annoying behaviour of "digging in" when it should still perform and exhibit that hard chine design attitude when in a turn . "Digging in" equals water resistance AGAINST the hull and loss of performance and loss of plane attitude and against wave resistance when the hull designers team is trying to maintain hard chine performance in the forward turning direction. I harp on this point that this hull design is one to respect . The older I get the more I expect of all my model machines that I am lucky to see on computers, as we certainly have more need to respect the masters, the likes of Peter Du Cane and T E Lawrence and Hubert Scott Payne of Vospers and Thornycroft and The British Power Boat Company and ELCO and Higgins, all of whom I have researched so much over my life and I have been to the memorial of Lawrence in the desert in Wadi Rum. I try to do it right. Regards to all builders Lyle. My mates and I have to run in 2 to 3 inch chop at times, such is the Lake Channel ! My wife has reminded me that some of my fleet do seem to have BLACK hulls and I only would build one model boat, when I bought the Aerobats Crash Boat home, the pictures are of some of my scratch built fleet.
Before the funnel could be installed wanted to fit a working radar scanner, navigation lights and the batteries. Decided to use sub C NIMH batteries in plastic holders, they should have the target endurance and provide some ballast. Fitted two sets of 4 cells, one at the forward end of the superstructure and the other at the rear, both at keel level. These were inserted into wooden battery trays to hold them in place. A dry test run showed a full speed motor run time well exceeding the hour target, so will try on water. Also took the opportunity to fit the Rx and then adjust the rudder before finishing off the wiring. Both the navigation lights (LEDs) and the radar scanner work. The radar is driven by a servo with the potentiometer removed and a magnetic drive shaft run up through the superstructure from below the deck. The motor requires about 9 volts to run at what would seem to be something approximating to scale speed; fitted a voltage reducer to allow the lights and the radar to work on less than 6 volts. The mast lights are to be installed in a separate circuit after the masts are added. As I get more into the detail it is evident the GA drawing and the photographs of the vessel in service differ. Fortunately the component locations seem consistent, although the equipment is not. This most apparent in the hold ventilators. The GA shows the standard cowl vents, but the photographs show a mixture between an vertically squeezed oval vent (which am advised is more typically German) and ventilator columns with cylindrical caps. The column style vents with cylindrical caps were easily made from two different sizes of styrene tube with the cap tops made from styrene offcuts. The squeezed oval style vents were more difficult. Broke them down into the major parts of the cylindrical vertical tube and, from a larger tube cut a small ring and filed one end to straddle the tube once it had been squeezed oval. Glued it into place whilst restrained in a small hand vice. Once set, removed and sanded the the two to give a smooth transition, closing the rear aperture off with styrene offcuts. Then resorted to wood filler, filed down to give a smooth, oval vent.
Hi Ballast The unit needs to be mounted vertically inside or under the smoke stack, with access to allow you to top up the smoke fluid into the unit. Current draw is about 2-3 amps so you will either need a relay/microswitch driven by a servo or electronic switch capable of switching 3 amps to switch it on or off. You will need a spare channel on your Rx to operate, preferably one controlled by a switch on the tx. You can use the main battery but it will reduce your running time because of the high current. You will need a 6v unit if you wish to use your existing battery.
they weren't the full ones like in the picture but my mum crocheted us five boys swimming trunks in the early 60s ,they were really absorbent and by the time you came out the water they weighed a ton with the crotch down round your knees ,this could be one of the reasons none of us were Olympic swimmers ,fond memories though .cheers Marky