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>> Home > Tags > run time

run time
maritime museum
bountiful b 377
run time
Muddys Tarpon 10 by muddy Lieutenant   Posted: 3 days ago
Hello, with a motor and prop refit, Tarpon went for a float test. Speed was suitable, she attempted to get on the "Plane", but it just aint cricket for a bilge hull.. As the man said " That'ul do ". Good cruising/walking pace and running time.. She is now relegated to an Infill or between builds boat.. The 777 motor did the trick, with a 3 blade 35mm prop running on 7.2 volt Nimh 3500 ma battery pack. No, where's the bag o'plans and/or the plans handbook.. Happy sailing Muddy....

Battery problems by Patto Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 4 days ago
thanks Dave i got a seaking 120a watercoold brushless ESC by Hobbywing which handles the power well. Same motor as before got a 38m 2 blade prop looking for a 3 blade. i was originally useing the 12v battery to run the motor but it was no good now use a lipo which i have installed under the deck in front of the motor.the large battery is running the watercooling pump and is also the prefect weight for ballast.NO problems with the salt water as i have got stainless steel, brass and copper fittings and a good flush threw the cooling system with fresh water. might be some time before i can put up a video because the council is draining the pool next week for the annual winter maintenance which is a bummer as there other suitable ponds handy. cheers Allan

DAMEN STAN 4207 by RHBaker Admiral   Posted: 6 days ago
First open water test went well, but with two caveats: 1) Would like to increase performance somewhat, closer to her looks. The initial tests of the unfinished hull showed adequate performance. As the detail and superstructure have been added, it has deteriorated. The increased weight of over 2 lbs has increased draft and wetted area, thus drag. 2) The bow is slightly low. Decided the best way to improve performance would be to increase the NiMh battery output from 7.2 to 9.6 volts. Thus added two more cells to the forward “C” cell holder. Also increased the LED resistor capacity and added a voltage reducer to avoid burning out the lights and bow thruster at this new voltage. By examining the drawings and the model layout decided to tackle the second by moving the forward battery carrier from just in front of, to just behind, the centre of gravity. Fortunately the Damen drawings show the C of G location. This increased the stern draught by about 1/4”, with the bow similarly decreased. Also reduced the stern ballast to about 3 oz. A further open water test showed an nice improvement in speed with the model now sitting on the waterline. Running time exceeds an hour, she also looks trim and purposeful. Think this is about as fast as an 9.6 NiMh installation will operate. Adding more cells will increase weight, adding to the draught. Am toying with trying a LI-PO installation in the future. This will provide increased voltage with a weight reduction, but rather costly though. Have decided to enjoy the model as she currently is; there is plenty to look at with the working fire hydrant, the bow thruster, the work and navigation lights. Will concentrate on launching and making the RIB operate, have some ideas on how to do this and will report in due course.

12 volt motors to esc,s by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi Doug Know it well and used to build my own from a published circuit using now discontinued chip. Misleading for a dual set up possibly. If there is no switch provided the two switch wires can confuse some, like my friend. His wouldn't work with the BEC disconnected. It was a dual set up connected to an Action mixer. Has to use a separate rx battery to set up the rx before the ESC. It's 2.4 and takes longer than the ESC so doesn't provide the correct mid point for the ESC to find. By switching rx on first all is OK. Both ESCs have the red lead disconnected so are dead as are the motors until the switch is thrown. There is built in suppression in the BEC circuit which is not enabled in one ESC with your set up. On switch on the motor runs for half a second and I assume takes a big chunk of current. Using the switch gives better control and allows for each motor to switch on one at a time. If one set of wires are shorted and both ESCs wired thro a Y lead both motors will arm at the same time and might produce some unpredictable results. I agree its good to see Sonar is up and running and happy. Dave

3 Footer on a very rare outing by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
"pmdevlin, it's difficult to build heavy if you follow the instructions" Yes it is, its also difficult when you didnt actually build the boat, it was originally built (as prev stated) circa 1962 by my uncle, with IC engine, and a straight running rudder, as he couldnt afford full rc gear back then. Im thinking Martin you have watched the video, and saw that the boats did plane, be it 30 knots or 300 knots, they planed, scale speed or not. I also own a four footer which handles beautifully, and is capable of well over scale speed, but speed is only relative to the position of the throttle stick, we all build to our own required specifications, and our own take on the original, with some modellers license😊 I would rather have power in reserve, than not enough power. The problem with my smaller 3 footer is at the time my lack of experience, resulting in a heavy boat, Now I own some fast scale boats, I dont need the performance from the 3 footer, so it can be rebuilt using a lighter motor, lighter power packs, and get rid of some of the unecessary weight to make it sit better in the water, and look better at slower speeds work in progress, as it hardly gets used, its not high on my to do list😡 thanks for the weight Dave, I remember that your 3 footer performs very nice, and is light. Ill weigh mine this week, its buried deep in the man shed, thanks also rob, but its the smaller 3 foot weight I was after👍 Paul

Scale Sailing Association by Westquay Captain   Posted: 18 days ago
I am reminded of the response by my boss when the client asked for his modelled map of Cardiff to light up the bus routes...."I make models, sir, not bloody table lamps". He utterly refused to make anything noisy or lit up. The noise makers I've heard are rubbish, the smoke generators whispy little things and lights, well who runs at night. As for re-enacters of any type, at any time....saddos in extremis. To re-enact the horrors of war is, I believe, a bloody insult to those poor sods who were actually there. My Dad said he had, on the whole, a "good" War, but he didn't want models of rocket firing Hurricanes hanging around when he came home. "I hope you never have to watch a man die in his seat after he limped a kite back home safely", was one thing he did say. Maybe that stayed with me, but I have never yet made a military model by choice, nor would I. I once made a small tank, the Alvis reconnaissance type, but I hated every minute I was at the army camp measuring it. Oddly it was one of my best models. If the guy wanted it to go, "Bang!", I'd have shoved it up his fat ex-artillery officer's derriere! BTW, your 3/32" drills just made the express hot air balloon from the village green, which will connect with the Stadt donkey in a few days time. I have all sorts of goodies arriving, I hope. Plank-on-Frame-Models, Vols 1&2, because my originals have gone missing thanks to moving house too often, brass wires, because the miserable old bag in the local toyshop where they carry odd ends of K&S Metal Centre annoyed me so I bought from the internet for a fraction of the price and a mini-drill stand so I might make a small 'ole go where I want it to. Oh and today, finally, that Eberhard Weber CD came from Germany, but was delivered in a Royal Mail envelope! Trouble is we're near the end of the postie's round so we're lucky to see owt till 12-30ish. And having left my lower back somewhere in the front garden I am off outside to glue the last planks in my model of "Vanity". Cheers, Martin

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by John Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Thanks Doug, it will sand with the grain which of course runs up and down or the hardest way to sand this boat! I will do small areas at a time and see how it goes. John.

The Taycol Target Renovation by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi Martin, many thanks for your generous offer 👍 But do you mean changing the shaft? Oiweh! But thanks also for the tip, of course that's 3/32. Shows that he shaft is barely worn😊 I'm sure I've still got Dad's old drill set around somewhere. Down to the cellar again! That's my problem after 30 odd years here. When I run into a job like this nothing fits quite right 🤔 I even had to improvise the Allen key to get the setting ring off the output end of the shaft! Not the first time I've ground a tool down to fit something! Wasn't Napoleon also the berk that started everyone else riding / driving on the right ? Originally knights and co rode on the left so they could use their right arm to to draw sword and fight if necessary, or so the legend😉

The Taycol Target Renovation by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi Doug Glad to hear the laminations were ok. They should be in close uninsulated contact and are usually packed tight when constructed. Old motors are renovated by dismantling then cleaning as you have done. Shellac can and does crack over time but can be restored by soaking in new solution then baking in an oven. Sorry was winding you up a bit on this, I'm sure the trusty Taycol will be ok for a good few years and you can check for any shorts to the laminations with a meter. Phossy bronze as per the original would be my choice. We have some good local suppliers so I can usually source without resorting to cannibalism!! It is a longtime lalglo but I seem to recali the instructions n running in suggested low power for some time with plenty of oil. That and the ozone will bring back fond memories. Dave

What type of wire? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi Nick, Servos & signal leads For these I use the twisted cable, pic 1. Especially if I need to extend a servo cable. Twisting the wires together helps to reduce interference. The interference current induced in one wire is suppressed by the wire next to it 😊 This is the principle used in high quality phone and LAN cables. Of course you can twist wires together yourself if you want. Clamp one end in the vice, the other ends in your hand-drill and away you go. Drive batter - ESC - motor- Rules of thumb For these I use cable from the motor trade. Make sure it is rated to handle the motor current you expect under normal running AND NOT LESS THAN THE STALL CURRENT OR THE BATTERY MAX CURRENT RATING! I don't do hi speed racers so the hefty 300A stuff doesn't interest me. If you do then use the car battery cable size. Cross section of the copper wires ca 25 to 35square mm. Pic 2. For medium power, < 15 to 20A like most of my scale ships the 'standard' car cable with about 2.5 to 4mm square is enough. Pic 3. Above all: don't forget to fit a fuse (quick blow) in each motor supply lead, Rating less than the max stall current that you expect and/or just under the max current rating of the cable. In the drive battery lead put a fuse (not quick blow!) rating to match the total max load you expect under 'normal' running; i.e.just above your total load but always less than the max discharge rate of the battery (esp. for LiPos!) or the wire mac rating. The quick blow fuses on the motors will blow first if a motor stalls, still leaving you with some power & control. Esp in twin shaft boats, you can limp home on one engine 👍 On singles, time to take your socks off and join the ducks! 😉 Odds and ends - low power So called signal cable or test-lead cable from hobby electronic shops with conductor cross section area of 0.75 mm square is enough. It copes with an Amp or 2 with no problem. General, make sure all connections are clean and tight, use gold plated connectors for all hi current wires, batt, ESC, motors. Hope this helps a bit. Cheers Doug 😎

Finishing by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Martin, Bin round the Talisker ? 😉 @stwdv; ignore what comes next, go to the last paragraph 😎 The scale effect (as I understand it) has nothing or little to do with shine! It refers to lightening / fading the colour to fool the brain into thinking an object is further away than it is, and therefore think it is larger. Look at any landscape photo or 'in real', hills or forests further away look lighter or more grey than the green ones in the foreground. There are pros and cons to both as Dave says. Cellulose is history, except from some nitrated cellulose solvents. In the car restoring days of my youth I remember getting crinkling if I used cellulose thinners from a different manufacturer than the paint 😡 @stwdv: if you do it veeeery carefully in very very thin misted layers (barely wet) you CAN put put a different paint on others BUT you need flat of and prime the old paint first. Pay a bit more for your primer (universal types) and ensure that the coating is absolutely complete and totally dry and hardened. Some combinations work better than others. But essentially it is better not to mix and match. It's essenentially the thinners that does the damage, less is more sometimes! Try to avoid cheap aerosols, paying a bit more avoids a lot of heartache and extra work, or throwing things in the bin 😡 They tend to have a fairly wide spread on the nozzles which wastes a lot of paint through over-spray. They also tend to be a bit thick and difficult to control the flow which can cause 'orange peeling or even runs and 'splodges' if the spray stutters. To counteract this one has to spray thinner; i.e. back off more from the object - which causes more over-spray. 🤔 The little spray cans made for modellers are much better than this in all respects than the cheap jumbo cans from the hardware store. Get a decent air brush for the big bits, then you can control the paint viscosity, flow and size and shape of the spray cone. takes a bit of practice but is worth it if you intend to build more models. But I suspect you wanted tips on the preparation! So let's cut to the chase😉 Sanding and filling are the buzz words. Checking the surface very lightly with your fingertips is much more sensitive and accurate than relying on your eyes. 🤓 When you think you got it right put on a THIN coat of primer (matched type to the finishing paint!) and you will soon see the spots you missed! So back to the filling and sanding. Use a very fine filler at this stage. Prime again and flat it off with 240 to 400 wet'ndry. Take off the residue with a damp sponge and dry!!! Go round this loop a few times and when eyes and finger tips agree you are ready for the finishing colour coats. Thin, let dry. Check for blemishes. Fix if necessary, flat off -> next coat. ALWAYS take note of paint can drying / hardening notes. Don't rush or you'll end up doing it again 😉 Hope this helps, bon chance mon ami 😎Doug PS my larger model (mostly warships!) I use resin based paints in half litre cans from the DIY shops and an airbrush. They are hard wearing, come in all colours (RAL codes) and finishes and are easy to mix and thin with turps or white spirit. They take the enamel for detailing with no problems. Snags: take longer to dry, but they are hard wearing and cheaper than millions of 14ml cans 👍

Schnellboat by Scratchbuilder Chief Petty Officer   Posted: 21 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 39"/2300g Schnellboat Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 30mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade) Direct Drive to a MFA Torpedo 400 x 2 (3 Blade) Powered by NiCad (7.2v) Batteries Controlled Through Mtroniks Viper ESC - Comments: Hi. Not scratch built,and not quite finished yet but from the Italeri 1.35 Plastic kit.Sails really well, and has a good turning circle even using the three rudders provided with the kit.I have fitted all three shafts but only connected two at this time.Centre shaft is running free but I am able to connect a third motor if I wish. Customised to suit my likes and NOT exactly to real time paint scheme. Front and rear guns rotate on separate servo systems from a six channel Futaba system.Also has an engine noise generator coupled in with forward/reverse. Really nice addition to the fleet on the water. On a separate note the video clip is of a smoke generator just fitted to my Corvett and not connected to the Schnellboot.Just a tester.

info on old yachts by Westquay Captain   Posted: 21 days ago
Doug, RAF Marham is our local base. Constantly being enlarged. Next insult will be those damned F35 POS from the Yanks. Overpriced, over time and, no doubt, capable of 60% of what they promise. Political BS at work. Then they have the temerity to call the ugly blob a Lightning! But you'll know how everywhere there is water. The Kings Lynn club used to run at the Leisure Centre, but allowed themselves to be bullied by the hook dangling retards and moved to Leziate, which is miles away and hard to reach on a huge lake and at some cost. Not for me. I rode a scooter once. Front wheel went down a pothole I thought was a little puddle and I went over the top. It had been lent to me by Mike Karslake, who started and ran the Lambretta Club of Great Britain. At one point he had 300,000 members in this country alone! I used to work for him from time to time when he had a new model to make, but preferred to play scooters. His daughter was called Jo. You'd know her as Jo Wood now, glamorous granny who married Ronnie Wood of the Stones. I remember her as a rather tasty 14 year old starting out on her career as a model! Anyway, I left the scooter at the house I was visiting and told Mike to collect it, Struck me as a death trap. I have never been into riding 2 wheels. Can't see what hold them up! Martin

Aerokit Sea Scout 'Jessica' Renovation by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Some of you may already know part of the story but, spurred on by Martin 'Westquay' and commanded 😉 by Admiral 'Dave' here goes 😎 Dad built her originally when I was about 12, so ca 53-54 years ago. She was 'No name' and free running with a Taycol Target, ahead only, and a 6V (very) wet cell lead acid. (Down to the garage again for a 'top up!) Anyway, to cut a long story slightly sideways 😉 MY daughter Jessica found the boat in the cellar when she was about 12! And immediately wanted to run it on the local lake in Munich, as I was doing with my HMS Hotspur (but that's another shaggy model story!). Sooooooo, she was cleaned up, resprayed pink (😡!) and white, Taycol Target field motor (no reverse) removed and replaced with a Decaperm 6V 7A with 2.75:1 gearbox. 6V 4000mAH SLA (weight half ton or so) Performance was rather sedate. Well it seemed like a good idea at the time! RX, battery and rudder servo were shoehorned into the aft compartment, Jessica nameplates stuck on and off we went. Jessie was happy with the boat and I was happy with the Biergarten. Can't remember where 'the management' was 😉 Jessie soon lost interest so I used the boat as a test bed for a while. So now, 25-26 years on; prompted by Martin, I took the old lady down off the shelf /I TOLD her not climb up there!😉) and started inspecting the damage. Photos attached. (Yes I know 35Megs is not for boats but I didn have nowt else then🤐) The ancient DIN Audio socket was for charging the RX bat, double throw switch on starboard quarter. The big 'ole was for the telescopic antenna borrowed from an old radio. Needs must when ... The funny looking 'thing' hanging out the transom is a dummy exhaust hiding the bolt holding the antenna bracket inside! Have also started dismantling and renovating the Taycol, which I want to put back in with a reversing circuit and a 2S or maybe 4S LiPo. That was day before yesterday. Yesterday I took out the junk (siren, water pump, servos & micro switches to operate them and the running lights) and wiped the dust off - last two photos, incl. THE JUNK. Stripped of all the junk & Decaperm she weighs 1214gm (about 2lb 11oz). Also tested (cautiously!) the Taycol with a regulated / current limiting PSU. She rattled and protested but ran 😊 Now being dismantled, cleaned up and brush gear refurbished. Might also fit proper bearings! Next step: clean up the old gal, check for leaks and load capacity. I will probably use the 4S LiPo ca 310gm, the SLA was 660gm, so lots of spare capacity, or maybe I can get her nose out of the water for once More soon Cheers from Munich 😎 PS to DAve and Martin: NO! I don't propose to go full authentic nostalgia with a wet cell accu 😉

3 Footer on a very rare outing by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
must be first time in a few years, its running too heavy, time to lose weight, and reposition the batteries, I had forgotten how much water this moves😱 I have also decided to go back to brushed, it doesn't need the speed this can do, it gets too high on the plane