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>> Home > Tags > run time

run time
maritime museum
bountiful b 377
run time
Krick Police Launch by MouldBuilder Lieutenant   Posted: 2 days ago
I have just started to build the Police Launch that I have had for a while. Work commitments have left me with little time lately but hopefully I can get a good run on this one for a while. I hope to finish it by late July which just leaves me enough time to send it to Hungary so that I can test it. The kit is said to be good for a beginner. This would be good as many years ago I built a Patrol Torpedo Boat which took me five years. I am currently restoring this one as well but I think that will take most of this year to complete.😁 I have started by buying the speed controller. The motor is a 400 brushed. Probably not going to be too difficult to keep up with this one. The kit itself is not too bad considering the price, but I do feel that the ABS vacuum formed hull could be of a slightly better quality. Also I am finding the ply wood to be rather brittle. Does anybody have an idea for a good filler to use to fill the chips which will take to acrylic paint. I have prepared the hull and added the propeller shaft and rudder holes. Care taken here to avoid splits in the plastic. Cellotape on both sides before drilling helps.🤓 I have assembled the internal parts which hold the motor, battery and rudder and also fitted the prop shaft.😲 I will start on the deck and superstructure next. An additional note about the kit. The instructions are reasonable but they are in black and white which is not helpful considering they are photograph based with text. I found a PDF on the web which is in full colour. Why don`t Krick supply this. Surely not that expensive.🤔

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Looks like everything is set for the first open water test. Sun is shining, ice has gone and water smooth. Intention is to start the open water test program with a repeat of the pool test, except this time with everything wired correctly; the load cell positioned so the “pull” is more horizontal and ballast available to hold the propellers underwater if necessary. Hope these improvements help reading stability. To modify the “pull” arrangements, wrapped a light cord around the propeller shaft struts and fed the loose end above the transom shelf and out over the stern. The load cell was hooked into this and then tied to a fixed grating on the pond side. Started by measuring the electrical requirements for each of the three motors and the propeller bollard pull, using the 2 S battery. Found the bollard pull was up slightly at almost 3 lbs per propeller. Probably because they were now held at a greater depth in the water. Also blew several 20A fuses, so fitted 30, which seem to work. A series of runs showed adequate performance with plenty of spray, although the bow did not lift much onto the plane. The forefoot did raise almost above the water surface. Then tried a 3S battery. Although this was much heavier, the performance improved dramatically. The bollard pull was up to almost 18 lbs per shaft. The bow still did not lift much to a plane, although the forefoot was almost clear of the water at full speed. The battery was located just back from the bow, so it is suspected that it held the bow down. The impact of the transom flap down angle could also hold the bow down, but have decided to leave as is for the time being and avoid the temptation of making too many adjustment at once. Whilst it is still too early to draw definite conclusions, it seems as if a 3S battery will be required. The model sustained some slight damage due to the test arrangements, so will repair that and also fit the 2 bladed Hi Speed propellers. Will then repeat the program and report. Should be able to draw some definite conclusions then on the best power train. Neither of the batteries used, neither the 2 S nor the 3S are ones I would choose for this model. As a result the capacities and weights are not ideal. That must also be remembered in future deliberations.

It's a sad day!. by stormin Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 5 days ago
Martin you do have a way with words, I like it!, yes, and steam locomotives run on at least ten times the pressure of a steam driven boat. Happy memory's of the old New Brighton lake, my nan and mum would take me over from Liverpool on the ferry, which in those days went to New Brighton, with my pride and joy under my arm, my "victory models fire boat" remember the one? all plastic with twin brass screws driven by a mighty midget motor. The old lake was demolished approx' 10 to 15 years ago and the new one constructed 30 yards further up. I was there as demolition was going on and the old lake was a large heap of concrete and rubble fenced off to the public. Do you know to this day I so so regret not squeezing through the fence and taking a hand size piece of the concrete side wall, the concrete wall I would have lent over 1000 times as a young boy of seven to launch my boats.

It's a sad day!. by Novagsi0 Captain   Posted: 6 days ago
Our "Imara" Tug has a cheddar steam plant, I might swap it for the motor and batteries it currently has. I can remember as a small child at a pool called the apex pool by Brean Sands. when a large power boat with a big KMB engine run up the bank out of the pool. The carpark was a gentle sloap straight into the water the boat passed me a 40 MPH on the tarmac. The prop I found, and had a small momento to remember the boat by. I actually still have the prop 35 years later and ran it on my power boat for a bit. Good times. (sorry for nicking the prop i was only 10!!) Stephen

My other Toy by deepdiver Commander   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi RNinMunich Up until four years ago she was my every day transport to work, and the river that runs through the old Brookland race track would flood across the road some times, would that count as sea trials?😉

It's a sad day!. by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
I think one of the mistakes people make is to assume that they must run their models with others of a similar ilk. That rather means a club of some sort. I say organise a loose grouping and find a river. You can buy a little dinghy/outboard combo for very cheap as a rescue boat if you can't get to the sides all round. Since the river will have diesel and petrol boats on it, you're fine. Canal Locks can be ideal and many (most) are not manned by any pretence at a Jobswuff. Some rivers have no speed limit sections, such as the River Nene and, last I looked, the Yare. So join in. There's nothing sacrosanct about model boat ponds and anyway if the Council Nazis have decided No IC, they are no longer model boat ponds, since that was all there was at one time. I ran a model boat display on the Well Creek in the Fens a few years back and we had no other than the famous AMPS man, Miller Agnew,with his Rossi powered outboards on his gorgeous tunnel hulls, models of real F1 powerboats. He came with the Cambridge club whose secretary made a point at day's end of thanking me for asking them. They had never run on a river before and all loved it. They had R/C water skiing, racing, you name it and all thoroughly enjoyed it. In the end the Police had to move the traffic on the main road opposite who had stopped to watch. A Rossi powered F1 at full chat on a river only 20 feet wide is something to see. Apparently Mr. Agnew was heard to say that "this is proper model boating". So, go rivers, young man. My, we'll be running out of middle fingers in no time! Martin

Sea Commander restoration tips by canabus Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Hi Laurence-Moar MY Sea Commander had a brushless 3639-1100kv motor on 3S 5800mah Lipo battery with a 60 Amp ESC and a 40mm 2 blade CNC prop. Very good setup, a bit over scale speed. Run time a half hour flat-out. The boat runs better with a bit of bow down sitting still in the water. The battery position about aft of frame B3. I swap my boat for a nice fishing boat( Artesania Latina HELLEN). Canabus

Vintage Aerokits Fire Boat by rolfman2000 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
It's nice to see vintage Fireboats running anytime. But running with original motors is unusual, and makes this even nicer. Thanks for sharing, as I am halfway through a rebuild of an original Aerokits boat as well. I think mine had a 10cc glow in, but not for long, as its not full of goo like some are. Im putting an equivalent brushless motor in, and hope to have it wet by the end of summer. Best wishes, Dave W 😊

Our boating water by aanside Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 26 days ago
I thought that folks might like to see one of the least used boating ponds in the UK. Located in Macduff, on the Moray Firth, we use the "A" listed Art Deco outdoor swimming pool at Tarlair. Two pools - the main one topped up by the sea every high tide and the boating pool which is topped up by seawater (and some fresh water runoff) whenever. I like to think we have some of the best views but it is sorely underused. Usual time for boating is Sunday at 1330, when the gates are unlocked and you can bring your car in, other times you are going to have to carry your boat 50m from the outside parking area. Everybody is welcome. Hopefully there will be a gala day in August when many more boats will be there, along with all the other razamataz of a Scottsh Gala Day - pipe bands, burger stalls etc. I have attached a couple of pictures, sorry about the few boats!

Rudders and propeller by teejay Lieutenant   Posted: 27 days ago
Hi all for the second blog report on the schenllboot I am going to go over the rudder an propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat , these were made to be above the water line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts .which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel)and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum power mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The forth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I have to ask for some help could any one advise me on the length of propeller shafts , I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft but port and starboard will have to be longer . and I also need advice on selecting the motors , I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.

47" Fireboat power question by ronrees Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 28 days ago
Hi Rolfman, This one is for you.....I wouldn't fit a 6 cell Li-Po to run your 47 inch fireboat!..It would be uncontrollable almost, even if you throttled back. That relates to an output speed in excess of 11,000 rpm at the prop. Safer to try a 5 cell (9,250rpm) or even a 4 cell (7,400) initially. Also see my message to Shaun. I use a G60 in mine with 4 cells which is ample, the extra battery pack in Shauns will double the running time. I only use 1 cell. I use a 50mm two blade Hydro Graupner prop (From Gliders UK), it could handle a bigger one but everything starts to get a bit warm!! Cheers......Ron.

Huntsman 31 by chwk7 Petty Officer   Posted: 1 month ago
Thought I should post proof of been a model boat builder after posting up photo's of the real thing. Scratch built running twin Irvins 61's with an engine sync system, 7 year build time as a house restoration got in the way! Chris

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER by reilly4 Captain   Posted: 1 month ago
Hi Rowen, I have had water cooling on all my patrol boats running at 12Volts, whether brushed or now brushless. For the brushed motors I have used aluminium tube coils with water pickups between the propellers and rudders. I did try water jackets a couple of times but found too much friction loss and therefore lack of flow. For the newer brushless outrunners I use a brass tube soldered to a brass plate across the front of the motor fitted between it and motor mounting bracket. I agree with Doug with regards to the disconnection of the red wires on the ESC's. This is now common practice, especially if you have an external receiver battery.

Genesis by MouldBuilder Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
[Score: 9/10] 38"/3000g Genesis Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 20mins Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type 35mm) Direct Drive to a 3674 2074KV (2 Blade S Type) Powered by LiPoly (14.8v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Hoddyking 125A Water Cooled (25Amps) ESC - Comments: I bought this boat to give me some running time whilst I complete a major overhaul of my Patrol Torpedo Boat and build my Police Launch kit. I plan to try it for the first time next week in my local river. I would like to thank Doug (RNinMunich) for all his help to get the boat connected electrically as I have not used brushless before and needed to complete quickly. The boat is on it`s way Doug. Note. It is faster than 24km/h. Ran out of options. The instructions say 55km/h.

site surgestions by Fireboat Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
It's a good idea and I can see how this is useful on mobile platforms. I'm currently working on a new website so will take it into consideration. The new site is being built from the ground up to support any device and any screensize. One thing you can do on iPhone and iPads at least, is tap the top status bar where the clock is displayed. This will scroll to the top of the page you're viewing. In the blog section it's also possible to view newest posts first, although this makes less sense for forum threads so they're likely to stay in chronological order. Not at a point to release more details on the new website, but I think you'll all be very pleased with it when it arrives! As Doug says we are a volunteer run website, so sometimes things take a bit more time, but we get there! Thanks for the feedback. Stephen