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>> Home > Tags > sail sail

sail sail
ages of sail
night sail
pj sails
sail
sail servos
sail winch
sailboat
sailing
sailor
sails
caprails
nails
spray rails
sail sail
Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Evenin' Martin, Oh dear oh dear oh dear! 😲 There is some good advice above, but maybe not optimally expressed for use by a Luddite! Sorry guys but this might be a relatively long post to separate the wheat from the chaff, explode a few myths and resolve this little conundrum of Martin's! One thing at a time! NUMBER1. THE RADIO- Dear Martin: Whatever possessed a self confessed Luddite and Scrooge like you to spring a large chunk of your hard earned pension on one of the most expensive and complex RC sets on the market in the first place???? I bought a Spektrum DX6 on impulse a few years ago while strolling around Conrad here in Munich. I've regretted it ever since. In retrospect it was way too expensive >600€, and complex. It is intended for the Fly Boys, as unfortunately most sets are these days. I have still not successfully programmed it to do what I want to do, instead of what it is pre-programmed to do for helis and fixed wing aircraft. Not even with it's own Spektrum RX, let alone a 'foreign' RX like Orange. So I have not yet risked it in a model. Definitely NOT my Catalina. Since then I have bought a Turnigy I6. Which does the same as the Spektrum, works fine with my Orange RX with giro for the Catalina😉, cost only 69€ (is now available for around 33 quid😡) and within a few hours I had it programmed and tested to do all I want in my destroyer and Sea Scout.👍 In short: the Spektrum is way way way Overkill for your yacht or Fire Float or similar, where you will only ever want rudder and sail servo / winch or rudder and speed control. So flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple (and cheap😉) 2 or 4 channel set. I can't imagine you ever wanting to start building special effects into your models so 2 (max 4) channels is all you will probably ever need. Stick your Spektrum on eBay, maybe you'll get at least a 100 quid for it. If you still want to go 2.4Gig get yourself a Turnigy i6 set with RX, 6 ch but cheap enough and I can help you directly with binding and programming from experience - I have a good English manual with no Chenglish gobbledygook. If not and you still have a working 27 or 40MHz FM set (40 would be better) use that. Where you sail, all alone, who's going to bother you or be bothered? BTW: Yes the Spektrum TX IS DSM2 and DSX compatible BUT you have to tell it what you want to use!!! Frankly I think trying that with a non-Spektrum RX is risky - especially first time out and for a novice Luddite😉 NUMBER 2. THE NiMh BATTERY- Voltage is not a reliable indication of battery charge / remaining capacity. After use a battery will recover slightly when at rest and the open terminal (off load) voltage will rise, often to the nominal voltage or slightly above. This is NO indicator of remaining charge as when a load is applied the voltage will drop again rapidly, the higher the current drawn the faster the voltage drops. If it goes below 1.0V per cell the battery will be permanently damaged and never regain it's original capacity. Haverlock is dead right about batteries losing charge when not used or regularly recharged. An NiMh batt loses charge at the rate of about 1% per day so after 3 months or so you can send it to the great recycling depot in the sky and buy a new one. Periodic cycling, discharge / charge prevents / minimises this - see care hints I posted above. And yes, NiMh do have that irritating Memory effect🤔 albeit not so pronounced as with NiCads. Lipos apparently not, but I ain't seen any evidence yet - the jury is still out! Sooo - ignore the 6.37V and run the batt through a discharge and full charge cycle. If your new NiMh batt has not yet been cycled and charged I would bet that it's present capacity is about 45%. See example below (and in attached pic) of one of my new 4.8V (nom) NiMh RX batts. NUMBER 3. THE CAPACITY CHECKER - "Glorified voltmeter" ? Where did the 6.37V reading come from if not from your 'new toy'? If it is showing volts it should also be showing capacity in %age. If you received the wrong thing it's not the "bloody electrics" but the bloody nit who packed and sent it that's at fault. Before you send it back check the below😉 Send me a photo of the Checker you have and with your battery plugged in so I can see what's happening on the display. Otherwise we are all poking about in the dark (Are we back to Jules and his friend Sandy😉😲) The link I sent you was for a checker exactly the same as mine except for the labelling! As you can see in my photo, properly connected it shows the terminal voltage and the remaining capacity (charge level) of the battery pack. Forget the Nixx (=2 Ni possibilities) display, that just means 'It ain't a LiXX' (3 Li- pissibolities). Attached photo shows a brand new 4 cell NiMh RX pack 4.8V (Nominal) connected to one of my Checkers. As you can see the voltage shown is 5.19V, according to the popular 'folklore' that would seem to indicate FULL charge. Unfortunately not🤔 Capacity indication is 45% which is normal for brand new batteries in storage and transit. Explanation thereof - see above! RE: " If it can do LiPos, why not the relatively simpler NiMhs?" a) the LiPo pack has a different chemistry and construction which requires different input circuitry on the checker, b) LiPos need balancing and are fitted with Balancer Plugs which connect to the multipin connectors on the checker. Each pin connects to one cell of the LiPo so that they can be monitored individually. LiPo chargers use this to balance the cells to within 0.01V (100mV) or less by adjusting the charge / discharge currents to each cell. The checkers use this to show you the individual cell voltages and charge states. A big difference, i.e.lower V and capacity, indicates cells with faults, e.g. higher internal resistance, or a discharged pack which needs charging and balancing. NiMh packs don't usually have this facility to measure individual cells. They are thus connected to a separate input on the checker which can then only show total pack terminal voltage and capacity. BTW: if you can get it passed 'THE Management' store your battery packs in the fridge😲 The 'coolth' slows down the rate of self discharge, which is a function of the battery internal resistance, which reduces slightly with reduced temperature😉 Enough for now, back to stripping my PTB for it's Midlife Refit! Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Martin: Just saw your post about another RX. Why the hell not buy a Spektrum designed Rx guaranteed to work with their TX? Or better still; flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple Turnigy set as above, also recommended by Ron, albeit the 9 ch version. All this frigging about with 'claimed compatible' bits and pieces just wastes money and time, fogs the issue and don't prove nutt'n!

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 5 days ago
Thanks, Haverlock. When should I discharge the batteries? Currently as you could see from above emails, they have a pretty full charge. I need to bind the Rx and see that the sail winch works. After that I probably wouldn't need them for a while, so would that be a good time to discharge them? Does the imax thingy stop discharging when it should automatically? Should I then leave them while and recharge a la Doug's advice, which seems to make very good sense with a new pack.? Cheers for the advice on the iMax. I'll let you all know how the binding/servo testing goes. Martin

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Doug, thanks for all that. I will be getting my battery capacity meter tomorrow or Saturday according to ebay, so will go through the above then. They are 2600MaH VP batteries, well thought of, it seems. So would that be a whisker over 6 hours of charging? (6.0666) The Rx. and the servos all say they can go up to 7.4V and as mentioned, as a sailing boat there's no ESC (thank Gawd).This is just drum winch and steering. I wouldn't know how to fast charge anyway, so that's not gonna be a problem. Who needs fast charging. There's always something to do while batteries slow charge. Navy Lark is lost on Radio 4 as is all supposedly funny stuff these days. Desert Island Discs is still on R4 on Sunday lunchtime with a repeat during the week, but these days the guests are either such obscure arts, media or science types you never heard of or so young they haven't even lived yet. Or sports people, in which case I turn off, unless they're motor racing maybe. I hate sport. Fortunately R4 Extra on digital gives us a lot of the old series the likes of which they no longer make for fear of upsetting some imaginary grouping of people who would actually laugh as much as the rest of us probably. On R4, the News Quiz and I'm Sorry I Haven't a Clue are still funny. Nothing else in the so-called comedy slot is remotely amusing. I would think, by the time my sail winching stuff is working right, I will have cycled the new batteries quite a few times, but I'll report back as soon as the gizmo arrives for capacity metering. Thanks again for your help, Doug. Cheers, Martin

drum sail winch questions... by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
thanks for the credit but it was octman's video of a working system and looking at it I would bow to his MUCH superior knowledge! As to your TX sorry I pass on that the only modern set I know anything about is the Taranis and that's complex enough for this old brain.

drum sail winch questions... by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
bowsies may well slip over time BUT when your setting up they could give you some chance to adjust once you have the final position worked out a drop of cyano would fix in place.

drum sail winch questions... by octman Admiral   Posted: 8 days ago
If you are talking about a closed loop system have a look at this YouTube : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cco5IQ0bZtU I have it on my yacht and it works very well, with no tangles any more. If you are not discussing a closed loop system, apologies for butting in. Chris

drum sail winch questions... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Haverlock, wouldn't bowsies run the risk of slipping? I was thinking of using brass tube (although they would have to be slit first now as I have done all the knot tying I want to)! I guess I should first find where the sail winch servo wants to centre itself, then I can mark the string and put crimps on for the rigging cord. Thanks, folks. Cheers, Martin

drum sail winch questions... by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
if your going to crimp you could use these https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/yacht-setting-... however because I would think it may be better to have the ability to change things https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000001.pl?pag...

drum sail winch questions... by Ianh Seaman   Posted: 9 days ago
Hi If you get near an R/C shop see if they keep Carl Goldberg Control Line Ferrules they are brass and easy to crimp.

drum sail winch questions... by kmbcsecretary Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
i tend to use crimping ferrules martin

drum sail winch questions... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
What's the thinking on how to attach the sheets to the main loop of string? Would a little bit of crimped brass work? Or does one have to whip a new piece of string in? One for the main, one for the jib I suppose. Martin

drum sail winch questions... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Thanks, Ian. I would only use the sail winch if there was enough puff to pull the string out, otherwise it would be rudder only. Well, I have wound on the braided string and set it so the tension is what I think is about right. Here's the set up, prior to installing in the boat. The receiving pulley is on a 6mm ballrace and the whole thing is in two layers of PTFE sheet and is made of redundant printer. The brass bits below the drum are holders for the steering snakes, complete with home made wing nuts. Rmbsecretarie's recommended stumpy Hitech steering servo gets the snakes out from under the winch drum. All has to be compact as I can only just get my fingers in there, having very small hands. Martin

drum sail winch questions... by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
I think Haverlock, you just pre-empted me! Martin

drum sail winch questions... by Ianh Seaman   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi My Naulantia had the same problem equipped with a Hitech Drum Winch. In the end due to frustration I used an arm type sail winch to control the sails. I know this is more expense but it solved a big problem

drum sail winch questions... by Ron Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
If you read further about this posted design, they are using a spring system between the two separate spools of the winch. I considered this for my set-up but did not have the spring loaded winch spools. See this: https://www.rmgsailwinch.com.au/rmg/pages/Self-Tensioning-Dr...