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[Score: 8/10] 25"/500g joysway orion Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 30mins Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 1Amp/h Batteries - Comments: Lovely little yacht ! I knew nothing about sailing but this yacht has rc sail winch and rudder. I am learning sailing terminology like jybing,in irons,halyards,sheets,lines,tacking, close haul and more.
I've been trying different configurations for controlling the sails. Finally settled on the winch circular method and managed to get it installed and calibrated. My tether broke the other day. Fortunately, a kayaker came along and graciously retrieved her for me. So I decided it was time to go ahead and add a motor. The drag of the tether was affecting my ability to get control of her. After a few failed attempts, I was able to come up with a configuration that works. Probably way overpowered but I had a spare motor from a defunk helicopter sitting around. AND finally, the beauty of her markings are back. I found a source for new labels (much easier to apply than the original ones that were water based).
Hi, I'm doing some (a lot) of research before embarking on a Bristol Pilot build. My attention has now turned to controlling the twin fore sails. A helpful guy at my club mentioned using a 'mixer'. Anyone who has controlled two foresails and/or a genoa on a racing yacht may have some ideas here - any welcome. But my initial question is about terminology. Reading my Futaba handbook - a truly excellent translation 😡- I find two terms under the mixer section - 'OFS' and 'VR' - any idea what they mean? For interest, the problem is that the front sail overlaps the rear 'foresail' so we can not simply attach a sheet to the front sail to drag it to a 'tight' position as this may tangle with the rear foresail. The second problem is that if the foresail is out to the port, the drum winch must turn anticlockwise to haul it in, whereas when it is to starboard the winch must turn clockwise. I do love these problems, but desperately need help. If its only someone telling me not to be stupid and just lket the foresail hang loose - I'm not racing afterall👍 Sam
Trying to learn to use this forum properly I am publishing a video that shows an experiment I did to find out how fast the stepper motor could turn. I am using in my model of the sailboat Carina 2 stepper motors like the one shown in the video to work as a winch to control the position of the sails in a system solution where I am realizing this my own way to implement the sheets as shown on the original sailboat Endeavour. This requires my sheet control system to control the length of the sheet of the mainsail i.e. over a range of 8.3 meters. This requires the drum which is turned by the stepper motor to make 21 full turns. Details will be published in my report from scratch of building my Carina.
Evenin' Martin, OK- 1. Your NiMhs have Tamiya plugs. 2. Correct charge lead for those would be the one in your last pic. BUT; it puzzles me that it seems to have one 4mm plug, OK, and one 4mm socket?? If that IS the case; Why? Should have two plugs to go in the charger. Change it for one of your new 4mm plugs. 3. You can charge the LiPo with the lead second from right. The 'bricks' are 'T' or 'XT' connectors.They look like XT60. Common on LiPos. Select LiPo and 'Auto' on the charger and it will do the rest. Don't forget to plug in the little white Balancer plug so the charger knows what it is charging and can balance the cells. Guess the next question will be:- 'But the white plug is too big to fit the charger'! If so you need an adaptor! See pic. The adaptor is in the middle; 'XH Adaptor'. Plugs on batteries are XH, sockets on chargers the smaller EH. It's a conspiracy to force us to buy adaptor boards or cables 😡 However, if the LiPo hasn't been used or charged for years I don't hold out much hope for it 🤔 At the bottom of my pic you can see one of my capacity / cell voltage testers. Glad the FlySky package works. What does a Luddite learn from that? Buy TX and RX together as a so called 'Combo' and they come ready bound, saving a lot of F'ing and Blinding 😉 Was very surprised you bought a car pistol grip with trigger throttle. Might be OK for throttle (cars are usually 'digitally driven'; i.e. Flat Out or Stop!) But I wonder how you'll get on with that on a sail winch 😲 Bon chance mon ami 👍 Cheers, Doug 😎
All done and ready to sail. I took it to an outdoor swimming pool at a neighbours and did a Sytems check; Stability; All was fine and I suspect this is going Go like a greyhound on the lake! Put in a new sail winch robbe #8336; rudder servo is HiTec HS-322HD
Aaaah! Jeti Duplex, luvly stuf, if you want to fly a 1/10 A380 with full Fly By Wire Auto Pilot, Black Box engine and flight data Sensing Recording and Telemetry feedback! But for a rudder and a sail winch!?😲 'A grand'? Only ones I've seen lately are 1 1/2 to 2 grand 🤔 Still, one has to have dreams 👍😉 Keep doin' the Pools! Ciao, Doug 😎
Evenin' Martin, Oh dear oh dear oh dear! 😲 There is some good advice above, but maybe not optimally expressed for use by a Luddite! Sorry guys but this might be a relatively long post to separate the wheat from the chaff, explode a few myths and resolve this little conundrum of Martin's! One thing at a time! NUMBER1. THE RADIO- Dear Martin: Whatever possessed a self confessed Luddite and Scrooge like you to spring a large chunk of your hard earned pension on one of the most expensive and complex RC sets on the market in the first place???? I bought a Spektrum DX6 on impulse a few years ago while strolling around Conrad here in Munich. I've regretted it ever since. In retrospect it was way too expensive >600€, and complex. It is intended for the Fly Boys, as unfortunately most sets are these days. I have still not successfully programmed it to do what I want to do, instead of what it is pre-programmed to do for helis and fixed wing aircraft. Not even with it's own Spektrum RX, let alone a 'foreign' RX like Orange. So I have not yet risked it in a model. Definitely NOT my Catalina. Since then I have bought a Turnigy I6. Which does the same as the Spektrum, works fine with my Orange RX with giro for the Catalina😉, cost only 69€ (is now available for around 33 quid😡) and within a few hours I had it programmed and tested to do all I want in my destroyer and Sea Scout.👍 In short: the Spektrum is way way way Overkill for your yacht or Fire Float or similar, where you will only ever want rudder and sail servo / winch or rudder and speed control. So flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple (and cheap😉) 2 or 4 channel set. I can't imagine you ever wanting to start building special effects into your models so 2 (max 4) channels is all you will probably ever need. Stick your Spektrum on eBay, maybe you'll get at least a 100 quid for it. If you still want to go 2.4Gig get yourself a Turnigy i6 set with RX, 6 ch but cheap enough and I can help you directly with binding and programming from experience - I have a good English manual with no Chenglish gobbledygook. If not and you still have a working 27 or 40MHz FM set (40 would be better) use that. Where you sail, all alone, who's going to bother you or be bothered? BTW: Yes the Spektrum TX IS DSM2 and DSX compatible BUT you have to tell it what you want to use!!! Frankly I think trying that with a non-Spektrum RX is risky - especially first time out and for a novice Luddite😉 NUMBER 2. THE NiMh BATTERY- Voltage is not a reliable indication of battery charge / remaining capacity. After use a battery will recover slightly when at rest and the open terminal (off load) voltage will rise, often to the nominal voltage or slightly above. This is NO indicator of remaining charge as when a load is applied the voltage will drop again rapidly, the higher the current drawn the faster the voltage drops. If it goes below 1.0V per cell the battery will be permanently damaged and never regain it's original capacity. Haverlock is dead right about batteries losing charge when not used or regularly recharged. An NiMh batt loses charge at the rate of about 1% per day so after 3 months or so you can send it to the great recycling depot in the sky and buy a new one. Periodic cycling, discharge / charge prevents / minimises this - see care hints I posted above. And yes, NiMh do have that irritating Memory effect🤔 albeit not so pronounced as with NiCads. Lipos apparently not, but I ain't seen any evidence yet - the jury is still out! Sooo - ignore the 6.37V and run the batt through a discharge and full charge cycle. If your new NiMh batt has not yet been cycled and charged I would bet that it's present capacity is about 45%. See example below (and in attached pic) of one of my new 4.8V (nom) NiMh RX batts. NUMBER 3. THE CAPACITY CHECKER - "Glorified voltmeter" ? Where did the 6.37V reading come from if not from your 'new toy'? If it is showing volts it should also be showing capacity in %age. If you received the wrong thing it's not the "bloody electrics" but the bloody nit who packed and sent it that's at fault. Before you send it back check the below😉 Send me a photo of the Checker you have and with your battery plugged in so I can see what's happening on the display. Otherwise we are all poking about in the dark (Are we back to Jules and his friend Sandy😉😲) The link I sent you was for a checker exactly the same as mine except for the labelling! As you can see in my photo, properly connected it shows the terminal voltage and the remaining capacity (charge level) of the battery pack. Forget the Nixx (=2 Ni possibilities) display, that just means 'It ain't a LiXX' (3 Li- pissibolities). Attached photo shows a brand new 4 cell NiMh RX pack 4.8V (Nominal) connected to one of my Checkers. As you can see the voltage shown is 5.19V, according to the popular 'folklore' that would seem to indicate FULL charge. Unfortunately not🤔 Capacity indication is 45% which is normal for brand new batteries in storage and transit. Explanation thereof - see above! RE: " If it can do LiPos, why not the relatively simpler NiMhs?" a) the LiPo pack has a different chemistry and construction which requires different input circuitry on the checker, b) LiPos need balancing and are fitted with Balancer Plugs which connect to the multipin connectors on the checker. Each pin connects to one cell of the LiPo so that they can be monitored individually. LiPo chargers use this to balance the cells to within 0.01V (100mV) or less by adjusting the charge / discharge currents to each cell. The checkers use this to show you the individual cell voltages and charge states. A big difference, i.e.lower V and capacity, indicates cells with faults, e.g. higher internal resistance, or a discharged pack which needs charging and balancing. NiMh packs don't usually have this facility to measure individual cells. They are thus connected to a separate input on the checker which can then only show total pack terminal voltage and capacity. BTW: if you can get it passed 'THE Management' store your battery packs in the fridge😲 The 'coolth' slows down the rate of self discharge, which is a function of the battery internal resistance, which reduces slightly with reduced temperature😉 Enough for now, back to stripping my PTB for it's Midlife Refit! Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Martin: Just saw your post about another RX. Why the hell not buy a Spektrum designed Rx guaranteed to work with their TX? Or better still; flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple Turnigy set as above, also recommended by Ron, albeit the 9 ch version. All this frigging about with 'claimed compatible' bits and pieces just wastes money and time, fogs the issue and don't prove nutt'n!
Thanks, Haverlock. When should I discharge the batteries? Currently as you could see from above emails, they have a pretty full charge. I need to bind the Rx and see that the sail winch works. After that I probably wouldn't need them for a while, so would that be a good time to discharge them? Does the imax thingy stop discharging when it should automatically? Should I then leave them while and recharge a la Doug's advice, which seems to make very good sense with a new pack.? Cheers for the advice on the iMax. I'll let you all know how the binding/servo testing goes. Martin
Hi Doug, thanks for all that. I will be getting my battery capacity meter tomorrow or Saturday according to ebay, so will go through the above then. They are 2600MaH VP batteries, well thought of, it seems. So would that be a whisker over 6 hours of charging? (6.0666) The Rx. and the servos all say they can go up to 7.4V and as mentioned, as a sailing boat there's no ESC (thank Gawd).This is just drum winch and steering. I wouldn't know how to fast charge anyway, so that's not gonna be a problem. Who needs fast charging. There's always something to do while batteries slow charge. Navy Lark is lost on Radio 4 as is all supposedly funny stuff these days. Desert Island Discs is still on R4 on Sunday lunchtime with a repeat during the week, but these days the guests are either such obscure arts, media or science types you never heard of or so young they haven't even lived yet. Or sports people, in which case I turn off, unless they're motor racing maybe. I hate sport. Fortunately R4 Extra on digital gives us a lot of the old series the likes of which they no longer make for fear of upsetting some imaginary grouping of people who would actually laugh as much as the rest of us probably. On R4, the News Quiz and I'm Sorry I Haven't a Clue are still funny. Nothing else in the so-called comedy slot is remotely amusing. I would think, by the time my sail winching stuff is working right, I will have cycled the new batteries quite a few times, but I'll report back as soon as the gizmo arrives for capacity metering. Thanks again for your help, Doug. Cheers, Martin
thanks for the credit but it was octman's video of a working system and looking at it I would bow to his MUCH superior knowledge! As to your TX sorry I pass on that the only modern set I know anything about is the Taranis and that's complex enough for this old brain.
If you are talking about a closed loop system have a look at this YouTube : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cco5IQ0bZtU I have it on my yacht and it works very well, with no tangles any more. If you are not discussing a closed loop system, apologies for butting in. Chris