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Like I was saying, I have reaerched plans, rules, slideshows on the http://footy.rcsailing.net Only a couple designs have longer keels with bulbs. Another has a hull shaped like me large sailboat for weedy ponds. Like in this photo. I am not in favour of adding a longer keel, but if I add 1” to the leading edge of the keel that will alter the balance ratio. Am I correct?
This little sailboat is very sensitive on the water, if a gust comes up the boat will easily do a 360 spin. Is there something wrong with the keel/mast alignment? If I were to sail in competitions there are rules, but just as a pleasure sailor, can the boat be altered Just asking?
I recently got an old Dumas Gee Gee racing sloop kit (22-1/2" long; 24" high; 4-1/2" draft) and will try (try, I said) to emulate this beautiful 1948 32.3 footer Moris Rainbow Class Racing Sloop as a next year's project. My first try with a sailboat. Wish me luck.
I am new to boat building and this forum. I have built a scratch hull for a 24" sailboat in the past from my own plans, but life got in the way of my boat building hobby, so it was never finished. It was a plank over frame construction. I guess one could classify me as "Amateur", but I do have some wood-working skills. Being an amateur, I would like to scratch build from free plans, and i would like to build a fishing boat similar to Artur. I cannot however find any good plans for this ship which really apeals to my building fever. Maybe someone here knows of the source of working plans for this boat? Thanx
[Score: 5/10] 21" MicroMagic - Comments: Build this Micro Magic in 2006 - the newer Racing version was announced but still not available at that time - and raced her the two following seasons. Updated many things like sails and spars etc. Still enjoy her each summer: Where ever I go I'll bring her with me! I even sailed her on top of the Alps! (Freezing my fingers off!) But the Italian Lakes, the Swiss Lakes, the Mediterranean Sea, the Bodensee or just locally the Markermeer (southern part of IJsselmeer) are all familiar waters for this tiny sailboat.
[Score: 5/10] 36"/2300g Robbe Sirius RS32 - Comments: I bought this kit as a ARTS kit, but immidiately threw out the 40Mhz transmitter, keel and supplied stays. I updated her with a 2.4Ghz Spekrtum transmitter, gave het 0.1mm x 19 new stays(standing rigging) and equipped her with a deeper keel in carbon with a hightech - like an modern TP52 yacht - shaped lead torpedo. Stockmaritime had some upgrading parts available at the time I build her. I also replaced the steel rod connecting the rudderlinkage to the sero by a carbon rod. Te only upgrade which still has to be carried out is replacing all the aluminium spars for EXEL cruise 8 carbon spars. All modifications help to increase uprting moment and upwind performance. The boat really sails very good, altough the mainsaillead could benefit from a upgrade as well. (it has jsut a bit too much resistance and the material has a too small diameter resulting in extra wear on the mainsheet.) This sailboat is the the fith sailing boat I build, after starting with an overhaul on a friend's vintage Robbe Skandia yacht.(which got me hooked on RC sailing) After that rebuild I've build the Comtesse(Robbe), Seawind(Kyosho), MicroMagic(Graupner) and then this yacht. Since this build my collection of sailing models grew with addition of a Saudade (Hegi/Revell), Diana (vintage M-class by Robbe), two Rubins (semi scale admirals cup yacht from Graupner) and a Robbe Skandia for myself...
Does anyone sail this class of small sailboats? If so, I’d like to chat with you about your experiences with it. I find my boat is very sensitive and actually do a 360*under certain conditions. My larger 46” hull is very stable.
Jarvo Do not know if this is how I get back to you! If you are prepared for more questions.................... I felt the tranny was 'poor' with the model and I cannot add it to the one I use with the Smaragd sailboat as I need the tug as a 'recovery boat' so would want both transmitters to be functioning. I will go for the 6 channel receiver and upgrade tranny as well as the larger batteries as you have both (Rallyst) suggested. Do you agree that the boat can afford to sit lower in the water and would you put CoG in the middle or slightly toward the stern? Please do say if you do not have the time to be pestered like this! All the best Mark. Neville
ProBoat Westward V2 18-inch RTR Sailboat with 2.4GHz Radio System Never let ideal conditions pass you by again with the Pro Boat® Westward™ sailboat. This compact sailboat makes it easy to hit the water whenever the opportunity presents itself. All you need to do to get water ready is attach the keel to the hull; that's it. Long gone are the days of having to assemble and rig before you can hit the waves. The Westward sailboat features a reliable 2.4GHz radio system you can enjoy sailing fun even from afar. No matter what your skill level is, the Westward™ is an excellent portable performer to have by your side when you want to ride the wind and waves with as little hassle as possible. Features Small-scale size allows for easy transportation Mini-sail winch servo provides precision sail manipulation Minimal setup time Curable ABS hull Included 2.4GHz radio system Specifications: Hull Material - Injection Mould Trim Scheme Colours - Blue/White Hull Type - Sailboat Scale - 18 inch Drive System - Sail Length - 18.125" (460mm) Beam - 4.375" (111mm) Mast Height - 22.75" (578mm) Radio - 2.4GHz Stick Transmitter, 2-Channel V3 Sail Area (Main) - 66" (1676mm) Sail Area (Jib) - 45.75" (1162mm) Sail Area (Overall) - 111.73" (2838mm) Assembly Time - 1-3 Hours In the Box ProBoat Westward V2 18-inch RTR Sailboat 2.4GHz Stick Radio System
My friend, Ewald Bengel, and I both have M12 class sailboats; 42" length, weighing 16+lbs, designed for sailing in weedy ponds or lakes. We took them to his cottage and sailed them in deep water on Oak Lake north of Havelock, Ontario, Canada. A Great afternoon of sailing!
Hello! What a beautiful sail boat! I see many hours in your endeavor. I'm planning to build a 1/16th scale circa 1933 America's Cup Whirlwind sailboat, using a fiberglass molded hull. I'm trying to find some old wooden window blinds, to saw cut into narrow strips for the decks. I'm going to build the cabins out of brass sheet. Have you ever used wooden window blinds for boat builds? Thank you?
Fully set up, I'm guessing Constellation weights between 100 and 110 pounds (I haven't had the opportunity the get an accurate measurement yet). Taking her to events with pools requires lifting her into the pool. I haven't figured out a way to do that easily, or safely, or more importantly, alone. I built her to sail in open water, so the 2 or three times I have to ask for help at a pool isn't a big deal. I'm sure that most of the time I'll be launching her at a ramp or shoreline, and that I'll need to move her from the parking area to the shoreline, however far that may be. There's times I may be faced with a bulkhead, but like the pool, there's no easy fix for that with a model this size. My first plan was a hand-truck set-up like the picture of my friend Ray from RCGroups, and his SC&H model of Surprise, a very similarly sized model to mine. The hand-truck is plastic and the cradle is wood, and you can see it's pretty bulky to hold a 100 pound model. Ray said his issue with it was it floated. When launching he had to push it down to get the model clear, and when retrieving he had to hold on to it or it would fall over, while trying get hold of a big model with spars sticking out everywhere. If the water was choppy or boaters were making wakes, it was that much more difficult. He also didn't like that he had to go into knee-deep water, at least. Dan, also from RCGroups, and the fellow that developed the sliding-brace-winch, has an SC&H brig he's modeled as the US brig Syren. It also came with the same hand-truck Ray's Surprise did. Dan wasn't all that enamored with it either. He pointed out how when you lean it back to move the model, it put you in among the rigging risking damage or even injury. Dan altered his hand-truck into a cart and has not looked back. In my mind, it's a boat. I have a 16 foot sailboat, and to move it, and launch it, I use a boat-trailer, so it would make sense to make a boat-trailer for the model. I scribbled an idea on paper, but then turned to some old 3D modeling software so I could see it better. My model has a 4 foot long ballast tube bolted to the keel. So I figured a U shaped channel to cradle that tube and support the model would be the basis of the cart. While Dan's cart has worked great for him, I didn't care for his 3-wheeled arrangement. Like an actual boat trailer, I opted for a single axle right under the model. I figured this would be more easily maneuvered and handle terrain a little better. I figured on making the cart from angle steel I dould bolt together. I over-designed the thing a bit, drawing a framework that would cradle the model that the more I looked at, the less I thought I needed. Going back to my real boat trailer, It just had center support and a pair of carpet cover skids (bunkers) to hold the boat up-right. Simple is always the best approach - and I had just the right material to build this cart from - a steel bed-frame. This L-angled steel had the strength to easily carry the model while using a minimum of material, and it certainly wasn't going to float! Two girders would form a U shaped channel to cradle the ballast tube. I figured a rod axle would need support or it could bend with a 100 pound model bouncing on it, a third angle would be set across for the axle. A couple of upright posts with padding would hold the model upright. Nearly all the weight of the model rests in the channel, so there's not a lot of strain on the uprights. I didn't have a cutting wheel so tried cutting the bed frame with a reciprocating saw. Bed frame steel is hard, it ate both blades, and two more I bought before finally getting the three main pieces cut, though I had no trouble drilling it. I used the u-bolt portion of a set of wire-clamps to hold the axle. A bit of flat steel to brace the axle so it wouldn't try to twist. It's all held together with nuts and bolts. I wanted short pieces of steel for and aft to hold the loose ends of the channel, but I wasn't gonna try to cut that stuff again, so I just used some scrap 2x4. To hold the handle I tried mounting a wood block with a hole forward, but then I remembered I had a flag-pole mount from when I replaced a rotten post on the porch. It took some searching, but I found it and screwed it on. The wheels are shopping cart wheels bought new from Ace Hardware online for about $5 each. I looked into inflatable wheels to give a softer ride, but they were too expensive for me. I watch the local thrift shops though, and if something shows up with nice wheels, I'll grab it. A fender washer goes on the axle first, so the wheel doesn't rub against the axle support; then the wheel, another washer, and a hitch-pin holds it all on. I can pull the hitch pins and remove the wheels making it easier to stow the cart. The uprights are simple 3/4" pine with some pipe insulation for padding (as opposed to tennis balls in the 3D model). They're bolted to the axle support, but I want to alter that a little so they can be folded in to make the cart flatter for transport. The handle is an old wood closet pole I've had for a long time. A bit too old it would turn out, but that's a later story. I painted it white for visibility as it also serves as a guard to protect the model's bowsprit from cell-phone wielding idiots that seem to be the most common form of life on this planet now. I painted the cart blue, because it wasn't black, white, or red; the other colors I had. Unfortunately, I wasn't ready in time to the museum event, and didn't go, but I wanted to sail the model before it got cold, and see if this thing worked.
In April 2011 I set a deadline to sail the model for the first time on July 10th. I had places to go and other things to get done, so I figured that was far enough ahead to have her ready in time. There were a lot of things that needed to get done if the model was going to sail; * Shape the still rough cut yards; fore course, fore tops'l, crossjack, and mizzen tops'l yards. * Complete the yard trusses with mast bands and banding to attach them to the yards * A gammon "iron" for the bowsprit. * Rudder control & steering. * New winch drum for braces (the originals with wood drums warped badly). * Sails for planned sailing suit; 3 tops'ls, spanker, and jib. She was basically jury-rigged, with all three course yards linked together to a single winch. July 9th's forcaste was for perfect weather, light northerly wind, blowing up the creek so if there was a problem, the model would drift back to me. Unfortunately, I wasn't ready by the 9th and the 10th was light, variable, fluky, 90°, and humid. The top mast fids were pulled and the topmasts lowered. The model with some tools, her ballast, and what I thought I might need were all placed in the truck the night before. The radio and main batter were put on charge. Next day we drove the couple of block down the street to the Sloop Cove public dock on Stoney Creek. The rig was raised, ballast attached, electronics connected and tested, and she went into the water. With her ballast and extra lead I had she still sat 2" high in the water. I set her out, but the iffy light wind sent he back, then she threatened to get tangled with a powerboat on a lift until I managed to squeek her out into open water. She sailed a bit, but just when she'd get moving the wind would shift or reflect off something and catch her aback. Then suddenly she stopped responding at all. Something of a gust caught her and she headed for a dock. I headed over, which meant swimming, and not being a great swimmer realized I should have brought my flotation vest from my sailboat along. It being so hot, the swim wasn't exactly unwelcome, but it was a lot of work. The model sailed right into the end of a dock about 100 feet away, bounced on her forestay, and basically parked there. I got her back to shore looking like a drowned cat myself, but there was no damage at all to the model. As it turned out, the main battery failed.