[Score: 10/10] 39"/3500g Voyager II Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 120mins Powered by NiMH (4.8v) 4Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through N/A ESC - Comments: This is an "Almost Ready to Run" 1 M Cup Yacht made by Thunder Tiger and no longer in production. It is good for static display and outdoor sailing. It is simple to operate and handles very responsively. It is very good quality for the price and its strong construction should ensure a long service life.
Adjusted the transom flaps and reprogrammed the ESCs to the softest start settings, retested. Until now, the test runs did not have the duration or stability to really examine what was happening. Using 3 S batteries acceleration is rapid and a is plane quickly achieved. However, as the acceleration continues and speed increases, the bow digs in. A cloud of spray then surrounds the model as the plane is lost. Brushless motors do not modulate as smoothly as brushed and adjusting power tends to be erratic or exaggerated. This is a scale model and the propeller shaft angles are per the plans. The thrust from the propeller has two components, horizontal and vertical. The horizontal propels the vessel forward. However, the vertical component forces the stern upwards and, correspondingly, the bow down. Have moved as much weight as possible towards the stern to counteract this, limited by maintaining the correct displacement and waterline. The easiest solution is to reduce motor power, decreasing both speed and the lifting component. Decided to retry the 2S batteries as they give reduced power. A plane is again achieved, but as the motor response is more docile, it can be controlled. If the speed gets too high the bow lowers, as before, but the motor output can be more easily adjusted. Spent a pleasant half hour or so with the vessel accelerating onto and off a nice, controllable plane. Much less spray and drama than with 3S and much more controllable. Have now decided to revise plans and use 2S rather than 3 batteries. A further advantage is the motor noise is muted and now sounds more like a gas turbine than a dental drill! Finally feeling comfortable with the model. Will thus shelve further building until the late fall when sailing in Canada concludes. Want to enjoy the rest of my fleet in the meantime! Will summarize my experiences with brushless motors in another blog shortly for the benefits of others contemplating their use. After restarting the model will resurrect periodic build blogs to advise progress.
Wholeheartedly agree Boaty, my fleet is made up of vintage boats which I love reviving, most of them were donated to me over the last 4 years my wife and I both enjoy sailing our boats and trying to encourage younger folk to try it. I have no problem turning over control of my 50 plus year old boats to total beginners of any age, the youngest so far is my grandson who started on his 3rd birthday with a small rc boat I bought him. Now at 4 he's getting quite good and learning learning manoeuvring with my large tug Valiant which is just over 4ft and pushing 60yrs old. I have never been tired of those that are willing to learn and have a go. BTW The supermarine is mine and I am going to be installing it into my father's old sea commander built in 1957. Originally had a diesel, but the taycol is the ideal replacement. And with Doug doing the rebuild on it I will be able to use it with my modern rc system. Cheers Colin.
[Score: 9/10] 29"/1200g Avanti Capable of 15mph and a runtime of 5mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 35mm) Direct Drive to a OBL29/19-15M (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 15Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through BLC-40M (25Amps) ESC - Comments: ARTR fast electric by Thunder Tiger. Deep vee powered by Ripper Brushless outrunner. Will reach 30mph+ when flat out. I replaced the radio that came with the boat with stick operated Futaba T2HR as I preferred "stick" to wheel for sailing fast boats. Initial problem was slight leak where stern tube passes through the transom but soon fixed it with epoxy. Electrics are in a box at the stern which is appears to be water resistant. Though not for a raw beginner, it is great for a second boat especially if someone is hoping to move on to a 6S . If not , it makes a good all rounder and is ideal for club fast electric racing and it performs well when doing tight turns. Boaty
W1 by jbkiwi Chief Petty Officer Posted: 5 days ago
This is my scratch built 36" RNZAF British Power Boat 64' HSL (arrived in NZ 1940). I actually went on board this vessel in 1968 when it was still in original form (the RNZAF having disposed of it in the 50s) This vessel is still around and has been recently re modelled (2nd time since early 70s) and I was lucky last year to have met the present owner and go on board (2nd time in 49yrs!)and take a few photos. The vessel was modified a number of times by the RNZAF over the years (air intakes, removal of the fore deck machine guns, wheelhouse turret etc so I sort of went in the middle. I found a few drawings of the type in an old mag which had side and top views plus the bulkheads and their positions, so I took them along to a copying shop and kept enlarging them until I had the desired proportions. This worked out quite well and using a few methods from other models I had built, managed to frame (ply) the hull and then fully strip plank it in balsa. It was then fiber glassed. The deck is ply, lined and varnish stained. The wheelhouse is varnished balsa with the top removable for access. The wheelhouse interior has detail such as controls, instrument panels, skipper, steps to wardroom etc but is not too detailed as it is not seen. The boat has full lighting by remote switch, lights are all LED. The propulsion side has dual everything (motors, ESCs, sound units), would have had 3x but ran out of space! Motors are 28mm 2200Kv water jacketed in-runners (cooled by remotely switched pump) using 30A Chinese ESCs (have 5A BEC, Fwd and Rev). Twin sound units are 'GT Power' car units which have around 40 different sound selections, from Cosworths to diesels and are computer programmable (as well as manually on the unit ) for various functions. I am using one of the v8 sounds (8 cyls short in my application) which I think is as near as you are going to get to 3 Napier Sea Lions (for which there is obviously no sound available) They 'start' 'Idle' and are fully proportional in fwd and rev and can sound quite realistic (will attempt to put up a vid later). Batteries are 2x 2200mah 2s 20c LiPos which will last around 2hrs at least of sailing (they also run the sound units) Still have a few small things left to do (have just made wheelhouse air intakes) but don't want to get too fiddly. Just want to keep it a practical model.
My dad built this over a long period of time, starting in the '80s. The hull is fibreglass and the rest is scratch built from plastic card, balsa, ply, wire and anything else he could adapt. Although he installed the motors, props and rudders he never completed the RC installation or tested it. I inherited his boat models a few years ago and wanted to "finish the job", getting the model on the water. After installing the RC gear and batteries over the last few months, this weekend was the first sailing outside the bath at the Valley Gardens boating lake. Happy to report that it sailed really nicely, seems to be reasonably stable although I did restrict it to calmer times when the MTBs and faster boats weren't running ! HMS Cadiz was a battle class destroyer, laid down and launched during WW2 although she didn't receive her commission until 1946 so didn't see combat with the Royal Navy, serving with the home fleet. Due to the changeover in pennant numbering she was originally allocated R09 and later, when the admiralty decided to revert to the D for Destroyer pennant numbering she was assigned D79. To reflect this my model has D79 on the starboard side and R09 on the port side. She was sold to Pakistan in the late '50s, and renamed PNS Khaibar. She was sunk with the loss of nearly all hands in 1971 in the Indo-Pakistan war.
I bought an Italeri PT109 kit in 2011. It took 4 months to build as I had other projects on at the time. I notices the high quality of the parts, especially the hull and the actual paint finish was very easy due to it being plastic and got the nearest colour match by using Humbrol spray acrylic of Grass Green with Regency Red acrylic for the waterline and below. Difficult decision was as to build as a triple screw to maintain scale or go for the single screw. I eventually went for the latter with just one rudder. Power was by a 480 brushed flight motor with a 30 amp esc which was a bit over the top as power was by a 2200mAh 2S Lipo but the esc was the only one they had in the shop. Getting the motor installed was very straight forward as it was done before the deck was fitted but I had to make the aft cabin detachable for access to taking the battery in and out and also lubricating the propshaft .The boat performed well at scale speed but got slightly out of shape when full power was applied, appearing more as a fast electric. Overall the boat was ideal for smaller ponds (providing it was not running flat out). The outcome was a well detailed model that appeared like the real thing on the water but I would not recommend sailing it in rough conditions.. Boaty😁
well club days for members are like i said from 9am till 5pm in the summer all wek bar sundays when its 10 am till 5pm in the winter its 4pm we are hoping no closed season weather permitting our chairman is aldo a duty officer on sight so when he is on duty we can sail till say 8 or 9pm in the summer dont forget we are on a private site so u must be a member to sail on our lake u are allowed to come a sail and see our facilities if ya like it can join , weekends are the most popular time for our members u have to sign in before sailing and when u finish sign out thats about it we have our meeting at the boat musium every second tuesday in the month 7pm at the cafe , so when u feel like it come down a visit us we are a happy laid back club if u are on face book go to our open site ellesmere port model boat club and see our posts regards len
Ah, but there are yachts and there are yachts. While these brash modern things are unattractive, something like an older Marblehead, 6 Metre or a scale model of a J class, or Victorian gaff cutter are a quite different matter. But of course a sailing fisherman of some sort is a wonderful thing. How about a Morecombe Bay Prawner, a Northumberland Coble or a Leigh Peter Boat? Beautiful, functional and a modelmaking challenge, all in one. Martin
I thought as the lake is still full of weed this would keep me sailing built from light ply fibre glassed inside & out then painted length 33" width 12"height 16" to top of the prop 70 amp esc aircraft brushless motor 11" prop I am busy with a landing craft i thought this would be another one to beat the dreaded weed 😱
Well if you have read the “Leaking Boat” thread you will know that my cunning plan to fix the leak failed………….. Even after drilling holes in the boat (?!?!), pouring in sealer and persuading my ‘assistant’ (I think I am married to her, but it was a long time ago now to be sure) to shake the boat as you would a cocktail shaker to distribute the fluid over the insides (not seen her move like that in thirty years)……………………..Did not do the trick. Yes I know you told me! I am now not in a place I wanted to be. No sailing for it this season, facing the prospect of a lot of dust and over-spray and trying to apply skills I do not have. I am at the edge of my” River of Styx”. The images show I have reluctantly collected together items I have for stripping paint. The large wire brush I have in my other hand! So I have had a bit of a go at the ‘red stuff’. Looks like a large area to tackle and then I went to investigate that ‘funny bit’ on the side of the bow. Well bits of filler flew off in all directions and exposed this crack which I hope you can see to the right of the metal rule. Could this be the source of the leak? Well it is two compartments away from where the water collects. On the other hand someone mentioned water passing along the ‘layers?......... Am I really going to need to strip all the paintwork down to the wood or is there something else I could look for as a clue? Most of September I will not be able to function much so I will have a good go whilst I can. It really does seem to suggest I have “bought a pup”. All the best. NPJ
I also enjoy restorations, Colin...just as much. Every challenge is different. This Chris Craft is a restoration of an Aerokits Sea Urchin that cost me all of 99p. on ebay! But then i thought it would be better made up as a single cockpit smaller runabout, hence the Chris Craft with the steeply tumblehomed stern. My son has an Aerokits PTB and my other son has a Sea Rover. I also have a Sea Urchin and a Veron Veronica yacht, so yes, I do like the restoration of old items. I have a pre War Marblehead in the loft too! I've never been interested in the big ships and service vessels. Only inshore sailing fishing boats and classic speedboats. If I can help you out with any info or techniques, let me know. I have a lot of books on woodies and years as a professional modelmaker to call upon. Cheers, Martin