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>> Home > Tags > sailing

sailing
sailing
battery charging by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 hours ago
Hi Roy, Like I already said in similar threads; pay a bit more for major producers, like Panasonic as you mentioned, and you are more likely to get what you paid for. No names are always a gamble. May be a super start-up, may be a 'let's cash in band wagon jumper! Whoever the 'supplier' is a relatively small number of manufactures are behind them. Yer pays yer money and yer takes yer choice! Personally, for the bigger, more expensive anyway, drive batteries I go for a supplier with reputation and known sources and reliable recourse without questions if you are not satisfied. For the little, cheaper, accus. for my Plastic Magic and auxiliary functions I am more inclined to experiment, log the results (manually!) and adjust future purchases accordingly. Regarding your super duper data logger; how has really it helped you? I used them often in my professional life, mostly as chief of the Rank Telecomm personal radio test department in the 70s and 80s, but now I don't need to sit in front of the PC analysing such data for hours. Time I could better spend building, sailing or solving other more interesting problems. Without appropriate analysis algorithms data loggers are useless. I have a thermocouple add-on for my multimeter which tells me if a particular cell is overheating compared to the rest. (The finger tip test usually agrees with the thermocouple!) This gives me a more useful indication than lots of abstruse graphs which you then have to interpret correctly. The money this cost you might have been better invested in a better charger as Dave M has already advised. I repeat what I said in the thread Dave mentioned: if I note that an accu. has a weak cell I degrade it to non-essential functions, nothing needed to bring the boat home! Each to his own; if you want to spend your time pondering over dubious statistics carry on and good luck! Personally I think Life's too short to waste on such things! If it woiks, don't fix it. If it don't woik fix or replace it, but don't waste time on bait digging when you could be fishing! Forgive me if I'm insulting your intelligence, for all I know you may also have 40 years professional experience in electronics. Let go! Cheers Doug 😎

fy55 by basilsdad Petty Officer   Posted: 3 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 38"/12500g fy55 Capable of 8mph and a runtime of 120mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 65mm) Direct Drive to a 900 12 volt (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) 6Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through 120 amp (5Amps) ESC - Comments: scratch built from a model boat magaze plan forgot who designed it though. it is built from balsa for the hull sides covered in a pair of the bosses tights before sealing and painting.The stern and deck are ply then painted to seal. all the deck and cabin fittings are scratch built from photoes found on line , the model is an on going projectadding fittings when i am not sailing it.

propshafts by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Any time👍 If you're not making a racer out of her but a Gent's Runabout 2x35mm 3 blade will probably do the job nicely at 7.2V. The sintered bearings will probably also do the trick, keep 'em lubricated! Happy sailing 😎 Shaft alignment will be important, as always! Avoid using double jointed couplings, they waste power and create wear and noise 😡 Minimum flexibility and maximum alignment 👍

propshafts by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Hi Fred, I take it you have the 91W version (#6316) see pic for specs. It has a 42mm dia. case and a 5mm shaft. So I would try 2x 35 to 40mm max. props. Shafts: 5mm, if you can, find one with needle roller bearings, try Raboesch (the most expensive of course! But very good and robust.) if you are going for 'all out speed'! Zoom zoom 😉 http://raboeschmodels.com/index.php/en/ If not ball bearings, last resort sintered phosphor bronze bushes. Fit an oiler if the tube doesn't come with one. Will you use a 7.2, 9.6 or 12V battery (or a LiPo somewhere in between!)? Good luck and happy sailing, Doug 😎

seeking help and advice by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi and welcome to the site. Yachts are not the easiest of models to renovate as over the years the control and sailing methods have evolved quite dramatically. The map shows you appear to be located in the Torquay area and I suggest you look in this sites Model Boat Clubs section and find a local club near to your location. Present your self at one of their sailing days and ask them if they would be prepared to help. Hopefully a member on this site who is local to your area may be able to help. I am too far away in Sandbach. Sounds like a nice yacht, are you able to post any pictures? Dave

Tank Steering by Dave M Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Hi Doug Twitchy servos suggest a bad connection, either bad crimp or dirty contacts. This can also apply to the small feedback servo wiper inside the case. Can be fiddlesome to clean but if you can't source a replacement you may have no option. If I have a duf servo I usually strip and keep all the bits for spares. Your non worker could be from one of the early offerings that required negative as against positive pulses. If its that old it is likely to be very slow. The motor and gears should be ideal for a radar scanner. Sounds like a Bonner offering, possibly used a split power supply. There is no mention of short range in the specs and as its possibly aimed at aero and drone markets I doubt if it has restricted range. Like you my scale boats are very precious and I like to keep them close to shore so range is never really a problem, just make sure the aerial(s) are above the waterline, especially if sailing a yacht!. Dave

Final Deck Planking by lhpen Lieutenant   Posted: 7 days ago
Well done you! Wonderfull job you've made of this model. Hope you enjoy sailing her as much as I do mine. Trevor👍

South Bavaria Scale Model Boat Builders by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi Krampus 😉 Even an Admiral asks permission to board the Captain's ship! Even if the 'Captain' is only a lieutenant jg! Won't be much sailing though when you come back in December 😲 Maybe my hovercraft on the ice !? 😲 Cheers Doug 😎

1:50 figures by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi Liam, Try here - http://www.peoplescale.com/FIGURES-BY-HEIGHT_c212.htm You may have to mod them a bit, but that's normal. Like when I conscripted Afrika Corps and 8TH Army troops into the Royal Navy for my 1/72 destroyer! 😉 Happy sailing, Doug😎

correct size of wiring by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Hi Chris, no you don't need 70A wire! 😊 That might be horribly thick and stiff for a scale boat. You need wire the same size as probably on both your motor and battery. Same the 'standard' wiring in cars. Available I suppose at Halfords and any car diy shop. WHAT YOU DO NEED IS A 15 OR 20 Amp FUSE TO PROTECT THE WIRING IF THE MOTOR STALLS (PROP GETS BLOCKED) 😡 If your ESC has a BEC supply for the RX put the fuse in the positive motor lead, probably red or yellow. If not, i.e. you have a separate battery supply, put the fuse in the positive lead from drive battery to ESC. Then at least the RX will still work and maybe you can see from shore if it still responds; e.g. by switching on lights or some other visible function. With twin or more props fusing the motor wire itself can sometimes help get the boat home on a remaining engine. Somewhere in the Electrical stuff blog is a long discussion on the subject! Have a look here https://model-boats.com/forum/electrical-related/28332 "What type of wire?" Happy sailing 👍 Cheers Doug 😎 PS: Almost forgot, if you have a brushless motor you have no choice but to put the fuse in the positive wire from battery to ESC! Brushless ain't got no positive!

ESC POWER by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Hi Dave, I heartily agree. Why tempt fate? I have just bought a dual ESC form Hobby King to test with my destroyer. Otherwise the only advantage I can see in having 2 ESCs is if you want to use tank type control (2 sticks) to give power assisted steering! (Or mix with the rudder control?) If redundancy is the objective then a separate RX supply with NO BECs connected is the best bet. Happy sailing all, cheers Doug 😎

"Kearsney Kapers" MBA Dover by Pooley Petty Officer   Posted: 14 days ago
Dover Model Boat Association's open event, fun day sailing with boat snooker. 10AM start

newbie by rolfman2000 Commander   Posted: 14 days ago
Welcome to the Model Boats Forum mate. It's David off FB & Messenger. Hoping to see some video of your maiden voyage up at Ellesmere. Sorry I missed your query about the receiver. Happy sailing, Dave W 😊

newbie by DennisRobotham Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 14 days ago
Welcome aboard Nutrunner.... happy sailing. Good choice to begin with👍

battery charging by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Good one Onetenor 👍 I've also used the 'flash' technique successfully for years, BUT ONLY ON Ni-cad, NiMh or LA. It's the basis of the lead acid battery 'rejuvenators'. In that case it shocks the sulphate off the plates. DO NOT USE THIS TECHNIQUE FOR LIPOs OR ANY LI*** TYPE ACCU. The results would be unpredictable and downright bl...y dangerous. 😡 I would not want to be in the same room 😲 Have fun but don't blow yourselves up! 😆 Cheers Doug 😎 PS Roy - there's nowt much wrong with your battery if it charges to 7V. One cell is a little weaker OK, but if it doesn't show a tendency to collapse under load the accu will be OK if you don't demand too much current from it. Dave M's accus also only charged to 6.8V, an average of 1.36V / cell! Happy sailing all😊