Onetenor, wherries never had open holds. They were always covered with interlocking hard hatch covers which were piled up at one end when the cargo was loaded. The sails were huge, heavy, highly dressed things, so you really don't want anything too light. They were a heavy canvas dressed in fish oil and soot or were tarred, like the hulls. And really the boats were nothing like Dutch barges. They were much prettier! Martin
Good on you, Jacko, for retaining Braine gear. It always looks so elegant on an old model yacht. It appears to be bread and butter construction too. But at 60" long it's no tiddler. It'll look superb on the water. I have an ex Braine steered pre-War Marblehead which I have sanded and repainted. Saving up for sails now! The Marblehead is, of course, like all of them, 50" long. Did you find out what class she is? Martin
Has anyone built a schooner (or skipjack) named Gwen M from the Marine Modelling plan No.MAR 2556 and featured in their magazine in the July 1996 issue ? I am trying to ascertain the weight of the lead keel and how it is fixed. Also I am looking for photos of the interior of the cabin to show the arrangement of servos for rudder and sails. Any help would be appreciated.
Evenin' Martin, Yep, I found a few photos, even some of a rather scruffily finished model. Also found the plans for a sister ship from Billing Boats, so at least I can see what's missing, surprisingly little actually. More important I can see roughly what was badly put together, but not how to make it work yet. I want to try and make the sails work - a new field for me😲 But then you know I'm nuts already. 😁 Thunder moved on last week, but is already on it's way back. You lived here 'in der Gegend' a while so you must know what it can be like! Parched we ain't! Haven't had to roll the hose out yet😊 Now back to thread cutting, bl...y mechanical gubbin's 🤔 More power to your brass! Cheers, Doug 😎
Right, thanks, Doug, I think I get that. I need to get a Tamiya female connector with 4mm plugs on tother end for the nimh packs, although they could be dead too by now. I didn't get a Spektrum combo as I knew I could get a perfectly good Rx. cheap and as ever I have to watch what I spend carefully. I didn't expect Greeno to flog me a dead 'un. So this time I bought FlySky and in order to get it for an amazing 20 quid, it turned out to be one of those pistol jobbies. I don't like the look of them, I must say. I couldn't think of anything worse than buggy racing, BUT that's what comes with a 20 quid spend. I might make a ship's wheel to go on the steering twiddler On the yacht the sails will be going out as the throttle goes forward and in when it's pulled back. Seems logical to me. Thanks for the info on the charger bits, but could you tell me how long to charge the LiPo in the Tx? There's nothing in the instructions about it as it must be a modern upgrade. The leaflet says put in 4 newly charged AAs! Cheers, Martin
Hi Model boat enthusiasts, This is a photo of almost completed 2 model boats I have almost completed. The Sea Queen 50 years old find. It was found in an attic in a kit. The kit was in a very poor state and most of the timberwork had to be glued back together or remade. I had no plans for it and had to source a copy from the Model Boat website. It is a very nice model. The pilot boat was scratch built and sails very nicely. I have been building boats for about 30years and have built over 25 boats, scratch built all of them. I have included photos of some of my boats.
Water trials have been delayed by trying to resolve the challenges with my HMS Brave Borderer project drivetrain. As those efforts have been halted, waiting for new components, decided to complete the Teakwood water trails. First battery trails used 8 x 1.2 Ni-Mh cells is series, giving 9.6 volts. This was unsuccessful as the battery life was only minutes. Lesson from this is not to buy cheap Ni-Mh cells from an Oriental source. Tried 2 x 7.4 Ni-Mh packs is series giving 14.8 volts. Vessel was far too fast and throttle control poorly modulated. Was thinking of fitting a voltage reducer with this battery layout so could adjust the top speed. Have done this before and it works well. When searching in my box of bits found a voltage step up increaser. Never used this before so rewired the Ni-Mh packs to parallel and adjusted the output voltage to 10 volts to see how it worked. Result is a nicely performing model with an usable top speed potential for emergency, Duration of the first run comfortable exceeded 1 ½ hours, which am satisfied with. The cells are positioned around mid hull to supplement the fitted ballast. From the pictures the model has all the grace and style of the original vessel and sails well. In conclusion, a successful project that justifies the many hours spent in building and refining the model
Hi My Naulantia had the same problem equipped with a Hitech Drum Winch. In the end due to frustration I used an arm type sail winch to control the sails. I know this is more expense but it solved a big problem
Thanks Ron appreciate that👍 Looks like it'll be a while before I get that far but I'm sure I'll be coming back to you. Not the least because I am converting a (badly built🤔) static model to RC and have an ambition to make the sails work as well. I know, NUTS!😁 But then, aren't we all just a little 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎
Long time since I saw shoe eyelets as portholes! No reason why it shouldn't sail. Let's face it some of the best sailing any of us have had is with a Star yacht from the seafront kiosk when Dad was feeling generous. Let the sails out a bit on the bowsies and off it went to the other side of the pond. I had one for years! Eventually, Mum had to make new sails as the originals rotted, so an old bedsheet or one of Dad's shirts would be run through the old Singer, ready for the next years holidays. Martin