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>> Home > Tags > sanding

sanding
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sanding sealer
sanding
Life Rings by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
The white metal fittings supplied with the kit are somewhat lacking in detail and some are overweight to say the least. I decided to produce some life rings to my specification I had tried to find suitable replacements on the web without success. So how to produce the ring part. I first tried with plywood but the finish achievable was not acceptable (can be seen in the pictures) so I then decided to use Bamboo (Ikea phone stand) for those who have followed from the start the same material as the grating on the foam tanks. First I cut some rough circles out of 10mm bamboo sheet and drilled a 10mm hole so it can be mounted on a 10mm screw mandrel. This allows the piece to machined on one side and then reversed and machined on the other side. The tool I used was ground with a 22 mm radius to produce the shape on one side of the ring and then when reversed and machined again the tool actually “parts off” the ring on the inner diameter leaving the ring free on the now remaining peg, the finish on the bamboo was good enough without any further sanding. The next step was to put a slot in the OD at 90degree intervals to hold the “rope” in position while the rope is bound in four places. The easiest way was to make a jig to hold the ring and to keep the rope in place while it’s glued into ring, it can then be removed and bound in four places each turn being super glued to keep it in place. Next job is to give a coat of sanding sealer that stiffens the rope and seals the wood. The rings are theoretically held to the cabin roof with clamp type brackets so again to ensure consistency I machined a piece with a suitable profile. I then cut radial slices to create individual brackets. The rings will actually be fastened to the cabin roof with 2 x 8BA bolts this is to enable them to be removed for painting of both the ring and the roof. At a later painting stage, I will be giving them two coats of grey primer and three coats of white, then hand painting the rope loops with red paint. The finished rings are much lighter and hopefully look more realistic.

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights by pittsfieldpete Lieutenant   Posted: 4 days ago
Hello, Doug: Out of curiosity, did you remove the molded-on plastic ladder rungs from inside of the mast to gain more space for wires? Seeing your finished mast has shown me that it’s best to keep the original nav light locations. Having all 6 lights on the main mast will make it look too cluttered. With all of the lights switched on it’ll look like a light saber is jutting out of the pilot house roof. Do you know if there are standards governing the horizontal spacing of navigation lights? There should be, otherwise I’d think the lights could tend to overlap & look like one big light, especially in fog. BTW, the cables you added to the mast antennas look great. The smooth curve of the cables & the weather boots at the antenna connections add a lot of realism. Well done!👍🏻 Speaking of details, do you know if tugboats carry anchors? If so, what type? As far as I know the US Coast Guard requires every powered vessel to have at least one anchor. I see no reason why tugboats would be exempt from this rule. I’m glad you mentioned using a Tamiya sanding sponge as a means of removing the factory-applied lettering. There’s a model railroad technique I’ve used successfully where an ordinary pencil eraser & window cleaner are used to remove lettering. I’m sure it would work on my boat but I might not live long enough to get it finished. Shortly after I got the boat I ordered a cloth American flag & scale Plimsoll markings from BECC. Sadly BECC has gone out of business. Another good supplier goes around the bowl & down the hole. Sad. Regarding the winch again, your comments tell me that I may have misled you into thinking that my boat has a winch. It doesn’t, but I did say I’m planning to scratchbuild one. In fact, I’m going to sketch one out right after I post this message. Thanks, Pete

Rebuild starts by MouldBuilder Captain   Posted: 12 days ago
Well it has been a while but I can now continue with the renovation. I have purchased most of the weaponry from Battlecraft and I must say that I am impressed with the quality. I will add pictures of these later in the build. I have started to prime all of the wood. Removal of the final areas of the original paint was a task but I got there in the end. I have applied sanding sealer and rubbed it down with 1000 grit wet and dry. It is starting to look and feel quite smooth. Have you built the 50cal guns yet Doug? I would like to buy some but I am concerned that they might be a little brittle for me to handle.🤔 Just a couple of questions to ask before I get on. Can I have suggestions as to who supplies good quality wooden kits to build at reasonable prices. I need to consider my next project. I want to buy a 0.8mm air brush for the larger areas as I am finding 0.5mm too small. I have my eyes on an Iwata HP-EP. This is for sale on ebay new at £122. Are there any suggestions for a better and or cheaper solution. Thanks.🤓

Now Coating and Matting by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
On to Coating and Matting. (as well as sanding!) Now have at least finished all the stripping. Then did the ‘bright light in the hull bit’ to look for areas that needed patching. The major problem area was in the bow and that did not receive the light as it is a totally blanked off compartment. However, it was obvious from the outside anyway so, could I assume it was the only leak? Decided to put a fine matt over the whole hull, not deck, just to be sure of best chance of success. I can imagine what will be said here if it still leaks after all this! I had ordered some supplies ready for the next stage and drew up a plan view of the boat to help think through layout of electrics and other items. Made my usual mistakes about size. Some fittings purchased too small………However, never too large now that’s interesting. Some materials purchased too large. Now have a life’s worth of Resin……(when does it ‘go off’ by?) Also have a lounge floors worth of tissue matting! Also Sandpaper. Now there is a mine field. So now I know a bit more about that and which way the numbers work! When I forgot to put the mask on, I had some of the crispest 'bogies' in years.............. No images posted! On the plus side, although I never wanted to get into this stripping sanding, filling sanding, sealing sanding, matting sanding, painting sanding, painting, sanding bit……………. I now feel I started out with someone’s boat I had bought and now it has become “my boat” for real! I am at the stage now where I have put some filler in and applied the first coat of Eze-Kote from DeLuxe Materials To use Eze-kote read stuff from RNinMunich on this blog or the’ leaking boat’ thread. Washes out of the brushes very easily. There is such as this ..... Youtube link - watch?v=yP05qv3QtUk RNinMunich or Colin H. and the like have bits of extra comment and experience that is always very helpful. BTW, after that finer sanding before first coat, I did the dust down and vacuuming bit but it still felt a bit ‘chalky’ so I gave it a wipe with Methylated Spirits. Now I realise that has water in it, so if anything goes wrong it could be blamed on that................. Having left the first coat to dry I started to cut out the light matt to apply after the next sanding. The matting I have is called Glassfibre Surface Tissue EGlass from FibreGlass Direct. A part of Tricel Composites (NI) Limited. Available internationally in lengths from a metre upwards, it is quite fine in weave so we shall see what happens. I have left quite a wide margin at the moment but may reduce that when I have tried using it! This is another first for me so plenty of room for mistakes............... Will need to cover with the matt in stages as I cannot get around all the boat without changing its position. Going for the bottom of the vessel and stern board first as I figure they are going to be easier than some of the other bits. Then will leave that to cure before moving the boat. Really worried about the joins/overlaps and how well I will cope with those, not to mention the curved bit! Started to look at electrics and layout for a bit of a change. I will post again when I have had the first battles with the matting! TTFN. NPJ

Still Stripping......With Care! by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
I am not posting this as a build update because scraping and sanding is boring…………although I now believe I will eventually finish it. However, I have already found 4 areas with cracks. Whilst I was working on one of the sides a prop shaft fell off…….Just as well it was on its stand and not in the water! Now some of these cracks I suspect will be with filler falling out but there is a lot of filler in some parts anyway. It is coming along, but do I really have to remove every paint layer after the old primer? Surely if it is well sanded some little bits can be left, not large patches just bits in very awkward places…………….please? Other questions Where the Hull sides join the stern should those corners be square or rounded? When I scrapped the paint off most the filler fell out so it is difficult to tell how it was! Should the cracks in the bow planking be filled before sealing and is ordinary filler correct or does it need a ‘resinous mix’……………..? Cheers folks NPJ

Mid Deck by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 18 days ago
Now I am in the swing of planking I may as well do all the remaining decks that need planking. Therefore, very much the same procedure as before with a mahogany border, followed by caulking the inside edges of the mahogany border, then cutting the planks roughly to length, and then finally trimming on the disc sander for an exact fit. When all he planks have been dry fitted, they can are removed and glued with aliphatic glue. A couple of days to completely dry then it’s on with the sanding before finishing with sanding sealer I marked all the nail holes using the marking tool I made. This is all on this deck until final finishing which will be done with all the other decks.

Still Stripping......With Care! by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Starting to feel a little better about this. Still many things that can go wrong on me, but for anyone else who has not done this before, try it. If I can do it anyone can! This second period of scrapping has been much easier. Twice the area covered in half the time taken in the first session. Yes I have left some of the ‘twiddley bits’ for later and going for the larger areas first. I am hoping to get away with leaving the deck to a rub down and re-paint. What has become more obvious as I progress is the need for space and preparation when using a heat gun. Completely invisible, a lot of heat is generated ( mine can produce 600c but I am using it on 450c) and it travels a surprising distance. I found I did not clear the floor enough or allow a large enough clear area around me. Others may manage in a very small space, but I was surprised by how much paint/material there was coming off with each push of the tool. This fell to the floor and smoked………… When pointing the gun away with one hand whilst scrapping with the other it is easy to lose track of where the gun is pointing! Having somewhere safe to put the gun down when hot is critical, as is having at least a damp cloth if not more to hand to ‘damp down’. I will not post more on this until the stripping and sanding are finished, but I am surprised as to how satisfying the work is yet it looks so challenging at the outset. TTFN. NPJ.

'The Stripper' by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Evenin Neville, So far so good👍 If you are down to the primer you can start sanding. I started with 150 grit (80 on the cutter where there was 'inches' of filler!) and worked up (down?) to 600 grit Tamiya Sponges before priming. The primer doesn't react much to the heat as it's mostly fine chalk dust or similar. Glad the chisel 'trick' worked for you as well. Cheers, Doug 😎 Forgot to mention: before priming I applied two coats of EzeKote resin. Sanded that flat with 400 / 600 grit Tamiya sponges used wet. Then primed with grey primer filler. Pics show Sea Scout, Fish Cutter and PTB. The latter after EzeKoteing and the last with primer.

'The Stripper' by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
It seems that the proper procedure for fixing the leak and then moving on to “the good stuff” is to strip all the paint off and see what we have. So the heat gun has been obtained ( I already had the fire extinguisher..) as amongst other reasons there would be less dust. Time for a few tentative steps. Now at this point I am not only well out of my comfort zone, but up to my knees in my “slough of despond”………………………. After all, I bought a boat to sail this month and so far I have drilled holes in it and am now about to set it alight! First image shows efforts with lower heat and using the tools supplied and the next two show temperature taken up to 450 degrees c and a ¾ inch chisel used to remove paint. A much better outcome. Now who suggested that would be the answer I wonder??? 45 minutes spent to get this far and although I did remove the plastic props ( being replaced by brass anyway) I wondered if I should remove prop shafts? I have used a bit of a deflector to reduce the heat anyway. On the final images, I wonder whether I am down far enough to start sanding or to go further. Now that I have started I hope to complete at least the general stripping tomorrow. TTFN. NPJ

Chinese props by CB90 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Please be careful with copper/brass alloy propellers as they often contain beryllium which is is highly toxic, read about the dangers and take the appropriate safety precautions. Before you work on these propellers, such as balancing, sanding, polishing or repairing.

Leaking Boat! by Westquay Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
NPJ, Dust isn't a problem until you come to refinishing. Do it all outside. I always spray outside and still do it up wind. Sprayed cellulose grey primer on my Crash Tender on Saturday and primer and off white enamel on my Chris Craft yesterday in a breeze, so stood upwind of it and all was well. Also rubbed down cellulose sanding sealer, dry. Dust just blew away. There's always a way round stuff. Cheers, Martin

4 C'S ? NOT finished by samc Petty Officer   Posted: 26 days ago
[Score: 8/10] 36"/4600g 4 C'S ? NOT finished Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 20mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 30mm) Direct Drive to a dumas 540? (3 Blade) Powered by NiCad (7.2v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through hobbywing (5Amps) ESC - Comments: It has been a pain to try to finish the sides. have tried all kinds for zpoxys and resins. just stopped the pain, by spraying with a can for clean gloss urethane. looks good not great but i'm sick for sanding and getting no better results then before. 10 years in the making

Aft cockpit deck by mturpin013 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
I first cut the base material to size allowing a card thickness all round for final clearances. The lower deck has a number of features in it that need to be measured. I took dimensions from the plans and marked out the base. Again following the upper deck which has a mahogany boarder I cut and planed a further amount of 6mm x 1.5 strips of material. I started by outlining the mahogany boarders, Some years ago I made a mitring device for picture framing which has come in very handy for doing the corners. Having all the pieces cut they are then glued and temporally pinned in position until set. The next job is to prepare all the edges with black card and then measuring each plank across the width starting from the centre line. I must take into account how the planks sit against main access hatch and the battery hatch opening however, all seems to look good but until each plank is positioned and glued with its caulk divider it’s difficult to tell. When preparing each plank I first cut each piece oversize with wire cutters then using the disc sander I trim square one end, then place in position and mark for final length and finish again on the disc sander giving each plank a nice push fit Because lime planking varies in colour across a batch I numbered each plank across the deck varying the pattern of colours as I cut each to length. Next I cut a number of card pieces to length and start to glue (using Aliphatic glue), plank, followed by card filler across the half width, then repeat the other side. Finally the battery hatch and main access hatch are treated in the same manner. Next comes the finishing , I use a very fine grade on my belt sander (I attach a block on the underside of the main access deck to control the sanding process) to remove the majority of excess irregularities followed by an orbital sander for a fine finish. If there is any staining by the black card residue I simply remove it with a pencil rubber. Next I put the nail holes in again using the jig I made to ensure uniform spacing and then gave a coat of sanding sealer. Final finishing will be done as a complete assembly. Preparation of the side panels is the next process before final assembly

Billing Boats St Canute Update by onetenor Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Looks good but yes sand till flush and seal 3/4 coats sanding between. Then the same with lacquer or varnish. Good look with the hull.👍

"issues" by NPJ Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
For those not following the Leaking Boat thread. We have a 'hitch'. Model took on water whilst in bath trials. See first image. No obvious point so going to need to do some stripping. Plan is when visitors leave I will post re the electrics and sound whilst having a go at the sanding, sealing and painting bit! Upwards and onwards. NPJ