The DF95 is too short at 950mm for IOM. I think that the Ragazza can squeeze into the IOM rules with a bit of tweaking. The supplied mast and sails fall between an A rig and a B rig in size. The mast is removable. If you decide to change the paintwork on a Ragazza you have two options. 1. Paint over the existing surface and add a bit more weight. 2. Strip the existing surface off and repaint on the bare fibreglass. Beware, this is not an easy job. The existing surface is VERY hard and takes a lot of sanding with very heavy sand paper to remove. Been there, done that. The Ragazza is a pretty boat and fun to sail but it will not stand up against the red hot competition IOMs.
So, today after sheeting and filling hull yesterday, today has been dry enough outside to give the hull a coat of sanding sealer and a thorough rub down. This has been followed by applying glass cloth with a squeegeed initial coat of Z-poxy resin. This will be followed by sanding between a further 2 coats of resin.
Had some time over the last couple of days to get the Solent moving along. So, have got all the stringers in which took some time to make sure everything was square at the end. some swearing and cussing did ensue at points trying to get clamps on, nails in whilst trying the aproach of wishing I was an octopus with 8 hands! spent 2-3 hours sanding, planeing and shaping said stringers and formers to get even curves to make life easier when the sheeting started. And so the sheeting starts! My logic says sheet from the keel upwards so that by the time I get to the bulwark and overlap can be sanded before sheeting the deck. Sheet 17 went in nicely requiring just a little balsa fillet on the curve at the bow to get a nice flowing finish. My approach on the prop tunnel was to sheet with 0.8mm ply first, I will then add strength from the inside with a 1/4 balsa layer before a final layer of 0.8mm ply, should be strong! once sheeting is complete, then will be the process of filler where required, sanding, glass clothing, and a whole lot of sanding and priming.
Doug no nut and bolt honest 😜😜 What is this fillet you and Dave talk about and how is it achieved as I presume its easier than fitting the support and drilling more holes in the keel? Also now I've extended the hole I obviously exposed new wood do I need to apply sanding sealer before applying glue or just slap it one. Do the photos look OK to start gluing??
Hi Dave Thanks for taking the time to take those measurements which has given me something to compare against which is greatly appreciated. Now for the return and more questions😁 The rudder centre is positioned at 1 3/8" but the water pick up is at 2 3/8" and more centrally positioned so I presume I should be looking at blanking off the rudder and using the water pick up as the rudder position? Also presume on the first photo I have the correct understanding on how you took the measurements to achieve a shaft position of 3 1/8"? On the shaft to the hull I'm at 1" so some more sanding to do at the weekend also noticed that the hole is no longer symmetrical which is were your tooth pick comes in the ensure it is fixed centrally on the hull😁😁 The outer tube for the shaft is 10" which is somewhat longer than yours 😲 and if I was to replicate your working build it is obviously wise to purchase a shorter shaft with the added benefit of providing some flexibility when fitting the motor? Also thinking my need to purchase a new skeg as I think it may snap if it was to be re bent to fit the repositioned shaft tube? Sorry for more questions but this has stopped me doing anything for a year as I had no idea what I was doing. Now with the guidance from you and Doug I may just get it right 👍
Hi Steve, When I repositioned the shafts in my destroyer I wedged them in with slivers of balsa until the alignment was right, then soaked the breakthroughs in keel and bulkheads in epoxy. When all was properly cured I did the usual cosmetic filling, sanding and repainting. Has been working a treat for over 20 years. 😊 Again re Raboesch; I am gradually replacing all my plastic and no name props with Raboesch. The quality and, above all, balancing is superior. Cheers Doug 😎
Hi Richard, if you have a long rat tail file ca 8mm diameter Or even a long 8mm wood bit or reamer) you can still achieve some adjustment! Worked on my HMS Hotspur; moving the shafts up from about 30° to around 10°. Made a tremendous difference to performance cos it stopped the bow 'digging in'. I made wedges to hold the shaft in the new position and filled in with epoxy glue. Then the usual filling and sanding 😡 Happy wiggling, Doug 😎
The LCM3's lower hull is now complete, I'm busy sanding & filling, I've found this "Squadron Products white putty" to be an excellent filler for 3D prints. This weekend I've completed 5 pieces of the upper hull, things are looking good for an epic super gluing session next weekend, after Haydock 😂👍 Cheers Wayne
Hi All After sanding the deck, I vanished with two coats that was OK. A bit of light sanding between coats and added another coat. Check it the next day and a lot of section on the bow the veneer had lifted !!! The stern section is OK. It's the outer veneer and it's all one piece, used the same glue. Very disappointed!!!! Canabus
Hi Dave, sounds good to me 👍 I'm going to try the 'tank' method on my Graf Spee, ca 5ft, twin screw or my destroyer. No Warp engines though (ran out of dilithium crystals!) 🤔 Belfast, 4ft plus, has 4 screws so offers more scope! Outers for cruising and 'power steering', inners to surprise the ATR 'sport' boats!!?? Now looking for some miniature ESCs (5 to 10A) for my multi-screw plastic magics, ranging from 30 to 90 cm and all long and thin! Typical naval ship form. Will probably end up with Viper Micros and Micron radio for the smaller ones. Hope the rain holds off for you, sunny and warm 28°C here so on with the sanding 😡 and sealing! Cheers Doug 😎
Chris Craft Riva Building a Chris craft Riva from scratch seemed a good idea.. I use three ply scrap wood costing three euros fifty cents so far.But I have in stock rolls of two inch wide veneer which I wrap around the stringers. So far it's three thicknesses thick which I feel is enough. Next stage is a hard sanding then a varnish before the 100 and things to do to it. Any comments appreciated and ideas. Alan
Hi Doug and AllenA. Yes, it is indeed good old Hammerite 👍 I sealed all the interior surfaces with a couple of coats of sanding sealer and then two coats of the silver Hammerite on the hull bottom, sides and bulkheads and it gives a quite an attractive finish which is very durable. It was recommended by VMW in the build instructions and I'm very pleased with the result 😁