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>> Home > Tags > sanding

sanding sealer
The window glazing & frames. by robbob Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 day ago
A full set of laser cut perspex windows is supplied in the VMW kit along with corresponding frames for all and they are all a pretty good fit in the window apertures of the engine room, forward cabin and wheel house rear walls, only requiring a light easing with a file for a secure fit. I left the protective film on the screens whilst gluing them in place with a very small amount of canopy glue applied to the window edges with a dressmaking pin and pressed into place so that they were flush with the outside of the cabin walls. The wheelhouse windows were a bit trickier as they are glued to the inside face of the panels and I had to remove the protective film around the edges of the outer face of the windows by running a fine sharp blade around the window aperture with the perspex held in place by hand. Canopy glue was then used very sparingly on the face of the perspex and the windows clamped in place. The central screen of the wheelhouse has the Kent Clearview in it and this needed to be carefully centred before fixing in place. When all had dried and set the protective films was peeled off to reveal nice clear ‘panes’ without any unsightly glue smudges. The CNC cut window frames are made from a flexible plastic material with accurate and well defined edges. They were all given a light sanding with abrasive paper as a key for the paint and were then laid out on a large piece of card paying particular attention to getting them the correct side up, in particular the wheelhouse frames which are ‘handed’ for either port or starboard. They were all held to the board with small pads of double sided foam tape and sprayed with two coats of Halfords metallic silver paint followed by two light coats of Halfords gloss lacquer. After a couple of days to dry they were removed from the board and fixed in place with canopy glue applied with a pin as very small dots around the inside face, aligned with masking tape ‘guides’ and a straight edge and then held in place with small tabs of masking tape. The installation of the glazing in the wheelhouse was made a lot easier because I had previously cut away some of the bulkhead and rear wall to give better access to the wheelhouse interior for detailing. This is not mentioned in the building instructions but is well worth doing for all the above reasons 😁

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by John Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Thanks for all the advice. I am on with the sanding which will take some time.

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by Inkoust Admiral   Posted: 7 days ago
Hello, I recommend grinding the whole body with fine sanding paper, then take the "LORD NELSON" pore filler and then re-grind it again. Subsequently, the final lacquer of the best brand. I have been treated like a wooden boat DIVA and already for 6 years on the water without any problems. What happened to you is that you used a bad lacquer that does not resist water. Two-component epoxy lacquers are also good for large yachts. I'm sending a link to the Czech site where the varnishes are designed for ship modellers. Just use the Gogle translator and the same merchandise you can get at the shop. Or on EBay.😉

Paint removal by onetenor Commander   Posted: 7 days ago
If the deck is also GRP the best bet is to plank it with fine veneer strips then varnish that. If it needs filler between the planks use a black one. Carbon black or similar added to the filler .Brown would also look smart.Artists powder paint could also be used and be cleaner to handle.Lite filler from B&Q is very good .Light and easy sanding and I believe slightly flexible so should not crack out.

Steering wheel by Midlife306 Commander   Posted: 7 days ago
This was quite easy to be fair, I just pushed the Milliput into the gap in the blue foam & left it a couple of days to go properly off. I then pulled it from the blue foam, sanded it flat as possible & chamfered all 4 corners with a file, then it was just a case of sanding the profile round. For added realism I used a small sanding drum in the Dremil to add the indentations on the back edge. I drew out the centre & spokes on some plastic card & cut the shape out on the hot wire cutter, a quick going over with a file & then I noticed on the picture that there was a slight dish on the wheel, to replicate it I pencil marked where the bends needed to be & offered the back of the spokes upto but not touching the hot wire cutter, this put the heat in the right position to allow me to bend it. I then superglued it all together. Took me a couple of hours start to finish. I've a bit more detail to add before I paint it, I'm going to have a go at distressing the paint so you can see silver under the black as in the pic. I think Milliput is awesome stuff, it's the next step down from a 3D printer I guess. Cheers Wayne

Er slight Problem by Pav403 Commander   Posted: 11 days ago
Hello all, I've had to start the hull from scratch. I went away for a week, I came back to see the hull bent in all different shapes, no amount of sanding or filling would rectify that so I've had to start again. This time it's out of any direct sunlight! Regards Dave

Help! Mystery Boat by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 11 days ago
Thanks Dave, Shucks SOLD! Not to worry, having found the kit description, with pics of full fittings I'm surprised to see that not much is missing 😊 Some loose and some fixed in the wrong place 🤔 but mostly present. Since Krick now market this, and other Billings kits, here if I get stuck for something I can't make, which ain't much 😉 I'll ask them. Meantime on with Sea Scout Jessica. Started sanding off the dodgy bits today. Fine work starts tomorrow. Cheers Doug 😎

Jet Sprint Boat by sonar Admiral   Posted: 14 days ago
So If things are still not going well It may be better to take the moulding you have and work from that. Chuck all the moulding away . Flat board screw the hull down on the edges. Filler and sanding and keep going til your happy with it then finer and finer sandpaper then wet and dry and finished off with G3 polish then wax and pva then make the mould. Bearing in mind any blemishes in the mould will be in EVERY moulding taken.. Making the mould is not as hard as you think.

Taycol Pt 3. New Brushes Pt1 by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Sometimes (often!) takes me a while to get started, but then - Don't get in the way! Since working outside (sanding etc) has just been nixed by the weather think I'll start on the reversing circuit. Cheers Doug 😎

"Vanity" leaves the building board by Westquay Captain   Posted: 17 days ago
This one is (for you furriners) 80mm long by 50 wide. This is the tiddler between the roundhouse/tiller area and the companion aft. Then there's a bigger one forward of the companion and then a forward companion forward of the mast. Mast bitts, Samson posts for the bowsprit and prism bricks in the deck. Fortunately Vanity's deck was laid a la workboat, all planks parallel unlike most yachts. I shall pay for that simplicity when I deck Bloodhound. That has swept decks with mitred toeboards round every item of deck furniture, joggled into a King plank fore and aft and the main companion is shell topped, requiring steamed, tapered planks all the way across, but I tend to like the fiddly bits. The finish on that is cellulose sanding sealer. When the other light is done I'll varnish it all very thinly. Cheers, Martin

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Check 'em out anyway, they're pretty small, there is also a 'Pen' sander with a band width of 1cm (As a radio man that sounds odd!) , sanding area 10cm (4") long. 😎

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Hi John, to ease the agro of sanding try these and/or (depending on the management!) 😎

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by John Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
Thank Doug, Martin and Vic, I have started the sanding today. It is slow progress as the varnish is hard and well stuck to the wood. The inside has already been covered with fine glass cloth and epoxy it is just not clear in the picture. I can see this job will take some time. I will keep you updated. Thanks again for the advice it was much needed. John.

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by Westquay Captain   Posted: 19 days ago
Agree with your generally used methods for varnishing, but these narrow vertical planks with all their joints will never go away. They will crack if it gets hot they will crack when it's cold and damp. Ask me how I know! They all need to be bridged by a single surface. I will be using J-Cloth and epoxy on my yacht as J-Cloth is very strong and cheap as chips. The only other method is to cover the vertical planks with a single horizontal layer of veneer, but that might be difficult to cover if any compound curves have crept in at the bow due to sanding of blocks or whatever. But somehow those joints have to be covered. Filling won't work. Martin

How do I resolve my varnish problem? by Westquay Captain   Posted: 19 days ago
Because Aerokits were done in ply, the sections, like a Thames Slipper Launch were all straight lines. That involves a lot of twisting, but with vertical strips that twist can be accommodated, being finished off with sanding to shape. Of course, if you view a twisted surface it will appear to be concave, but it ain't necessarily so, as Aerokits and slipper launches prove. I think that's what's happened here. The joints twixt every vertical plank will always be there, causing trouble. I would say fill the grooves, then cover in glass cloth and epoxy to give a single surface that won't crack again. I'd be inclined to do the same internally, then paint the model. Martin