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>> Home > Tags > sanding

sanding
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sanding sealer
sanding
International Model Boat Show by ChrisF Petty Officer   Posted: 7 days ago
Forgot to mention that the Record scroll saw has a 5 year guarantee which is very good. Also went yesterday and got the other bits and pieces I need and a bigger Permagrit for sanding the keel and chines to shape. As said was very good and some fantastic builds.

MV TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
There was considerable sanding required around the bow. Once complete, decided to continue and remove all the hull detail not appropriate to the Teakwood. Used an orbital sander for this and it turned out nicely. The detail seems to only be in the gell coat and the actual glass – fibre core was untouched. Suggest do this outside and wear a mask as it creates a lot of dust. Had originally thought of covering the bow with light glass – fibre cloth and stippling it down with resin. After looking at the bow area decided that a coat of glass – fibre resin, applied to the new portion and extending an inch or so into the original hull would be adequate. The wood filler / styrene / steel wire structure is quite rigid and robust. This has turned out nicely and the bow area is now complete. Retained the anchor hawse pipe detail as, much to my surprise, it is in the correct location for the Teakwood. Inspected the hull shell from all angles (this usually any reveals errors or inconsistencies), pertinent dimensions were also checked with a steel rule, protractor and a spirit level. Found nothing amiss. Whilst cannot be absolutely positive the bow entry lines are correct (do not have a lines plan), checked them against a number of similar vessels. These range from the Liberty, through SD 14 to the “City of Toronto” - which is of a similar vintage. They look quite close. Have now completed the major transformation of the Velarde hull into the Teakwood and can move onto the remainder of the build.

lots of sanding by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
PS: On the Deluxe Materials site they list the following distributor in Canada Great Hobbies 17 Glen Stewart Dr Stratford, PEI Canada C1B 2A8 Local: 569-3262 Toll Free: 800 839-3262 Local Fax: 569-5373 Toll Free Fax: 888 478-2580 Email: gary@greathobbies.com www.greathobbies.com Cheers Doug 😎

lots of sanding by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Bubbles!? 😡 Can heartily recommend Deluxe Materials EzeKote. It's one part (no hardener mixing required) dries in 20 minutes or so and looks like glass. not cheap, but then the good stuff never is! Cheers Doug 😎

lots of sanding by GARTH Commander   Posted: 27 days ago
Continued with my project Sea commander hull sheets on deck on & lots of sanding for a smooth finish . Used a clear finishing epoxy it had a lot of bubbles after it dried so more sanding needed .Also made the rudder & shaft from brass rod & tube .

off and running by marky Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 27 days ago
keel frames and deck together ,couldn't remember if you planked in two halfs and then joined together so put it together and will plank alternative sides some fettleling and sanding to do first .

Varnish by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Exactly Haverlock👍 wet with washing up liquid between coats is what creates the polishing effect and final gloss. Something I learned the hard way back in my car restoration days. Dry sanding creates more of a 'silk/satin' or worse matt effect. 😎

M.V. TEAKWOOD by RHBaker Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
What to do next? Decided that the hull needed reference points from which dimensions could be established and checked. The most logical place is the peak of the bow as from this most longitudinal and vertical measurements can be established. The dodger on top of the bow interferes with such measurements, decided that as it was to be removed eventually to remove it now. Cut the dodger off with a hacksaw and then filed/sanded the forecastle bulwarks to their correct height. As the stern required several modifications decided it would be easier to implement them if that bulwark was the correct height too. Rather than laike around making relatively small areas the correct height, decided that it would be easier to get all the bulkwalks correct at the same time. Used a Dremel tool with a cutting disc. rather than a hacksaw. This is much easier, but recommend wear a mask to avoid ingesting the copious amounts of dust created. Once the major amount was removed, used a Sureform scraper and a sanding block to bring them to the correct height. As the bulwark heights were getting close to the correct size, checked measurements from the drawing and used a spirit level to make sure that not only are the heights correct they are symmetrical across the hull. This is quite time consuming, but it is important they are correct as otherwise the hull will look twisted. Once the Teakwood hull shape started to develop from the Velarde, it rather looked like a butterfly emerging from a chrysalis! Modifying a hull presents a range of problems that do not follow a logical sequence, unlike making a model from scratch. In parallel with this model am slowly doing one of the S.S. Great Britain. Whilst that is more challenging, the work flows logically from one step to the next.

Adding superstructure detail by Skydive130 Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
So today has been a good day of progress. spent the morning giving the superstructure a couple of coats of sanding sealer with plenty of sanding inbetween. Have then spent the rest of the day making a good start on the detailing which included most of the plasticard window frames, roof nav light housings, most of the hatches, marking and drilling the holes for the stanchions, adding a brass exhaust on the side, drilling and loose mounting the radar and a few other bits n bobs. Tomorrow afternoon should see the bulk of the detailing finished less any metal work i.e stanchions and all the roof metalwork which will be added after painting.

Superstructure built by Skydive130 Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
Just finished building the basic superstructure. Dont worry about the enlarged window openings, they will be reduced in size to scale once the plasticard frames are installed along with the wiper pieces above the fore windows. I still have alot of filling, sanding, sealing ect to go before painting and adding the abundance of scale detail I intend putting on. I havnt bothered fitting the rear stowage bin shown on the plan as pictures of real ones generally show it not fitted. I also have a plan of scribing the bottom line of the superstructure to match the outline of the hull which will then have a spruce strip alplied to give a near perfect match between hull and cabin.

Clothing complete, superstructure started! by Skydive130 Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
Good weekend of progress has seen the hull glass clothing completed and has now had 2 coats of resin. Will get a 3rd and final coat after last stabilzer is fitted before final sanding, priming and painting (once motors and propshafts have been fitted). Have also made good progress on the cabin superstructure which has now started to get this "Solent" closer to the eventual finish line! Not much more can be done this week as starting Nights tonight, sometime good to have a break though!

Deck in! by Skydive130 Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
After a week away in Lanzarote, have had a couple of days to get some work done. Left side of hull is now fully sheeted, gaps filled and awaiting final sanding and glass clothing. Decided to get ahead of myself and have fitted all the deck pieces and the cabin deck formers. The inside of the hull has had a second coat of epoxy resin and will get a couple of coats of yaht varnish once the final pieces of internal wood parts have been fitted to include battery tray, motor mounts, prop shafts, servo rail, ESC tray, receiver tray, speaker/engine sound module tray. Up at the bow have fitted the wood for the on/off switch, sanded, sealed and primed the bow deck before adding a couple of the detail parts.

What paint type by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Scotty (How are the dilithium crystals doing? 😉) Was expecting one of the vintage boat / Fireboat modellers to jump in here! Since no one did here's my two-pennyworth. Basically I consider the actual paint as cosmetic and not primarily to seal out water. Unless you want to use 2 part epoxy paints, which are not so easy to handle🤔 I used it on my U26 sub and it was pain in the you-no-where. First I would use sanding sealer inside and out. Then EzeKote or ClearKote inside and out. Especially where you want to let the planking shine! 👍 From Deluxe Materials - available Down Under from - see pic. this toughens the hull and gives added protection against knocks and bangs. Many of us then paint the inside with Hammerite, colour and texture, hammer or smooth etc, personal choice. This looks neat and is easy to keep clean. Out side acrylic is the easiest and most pleasant to use; water based so the painting tools are easy to clean with warm water and no dangerous to health or inflammable solvents. Easy to airbrush too😉 When the colour coat is finished and good an' dry you can then apply an acrylic clear lacquer coat, matt, silk or gloss as you wish. Hope this helps, cheers Doug 😎

Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion by neilmc Commander   Posted: 2 months ago
Sometimes I hate work it gets in the way but I've managed to get the first fix for the prop tube at last now to leave for a while as work and courses in the way again. I have also managed to open the hole for rudder guide and presume this needs a bit of expoxy resin to secure it in place? The oiler is also fitted and a bit of cleaning of the inner hull to remove some of the old paint ready for sanding sealer coat after I've mounted and aligned the motor - not looking forward to that at all if past experience is anything to go by. But now the old mount is out there is more space and the prop and shaft is at a much better angle thanks to Dave and Doug😁😁

HELP ME DECIDE PLEASE by terrymiff Apprentice   Posted: 2 months ago
The DF95 is too short at 950mm for IOM. I think that the Ragazza can squeeze into the IOM rules with a bit of tweaking. The supplied mast and sails fall between an A rig and a B rig in size. The mast is removable. If you decide to change the paintwork on a Ragazza you have two options. 1. Paint over the existing surface and add a bit more weight. 2. Strip the existing surface off and repaint on the bare fibreglass. Beware, this is not an easy job. The existing surface is VERY hard and takes a lot of sanding with very heavy sand paper to remove. Been there, done that. The Ragazza is a pretty boat and fun to sail but it will not stand up against the red hot competition IOMs.