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>> Home > Tags > sanding

sanding sealer
Sanding done by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Shucks! Mine are all red 😭 BUT; just found some 1 and 2mm white styrene tooob in the stash 😊 Guess they'll do for my T45, Belfast and Illustrious. Thanks for the prompt Steve1 Cheers, Doug 😎

Sanding done by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 6 days ago
Just found an answer to my antenna 'White Stick'. At work we use a WD40 type fluid and the can comes with a tube you can use with the nozzle. Some new cans came in and they have nice white tubes...result. Steve

Deck beams & keel by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 19 days ago
Been glueing up the curved deck beams (one still in the jig) and laying them roughly in place but final position is going to be governed by mast position and hard points for the running and standing rigging most of which I have yet to establish. Most of the keel is done but still needs plenty of sanding to get the foil profile right. So next question is does anyone have knowledge on how to make my own sails. They will not be modern Mylar/scrim types as I am going for a semi vintage look. I've bought some white nylon cloth (about the grade you would make a holdall out of) now I need to learn how the get the right shape into the sail.

Sanding done by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 21 days ago
Hi Steve, many real IMM rod antennas I worked with were not tapered. So any metal / plastic rod of suitable diameter painted white would do. The relatively short (1m) whips are not always tapered either. If you go piano wire & heatshrink you could put a nice sweep-back into it by lightly bending it back while shrinking. When cool it will hold the shape. Here's a link to the supplier we most often used for the professional 'stick' (we called 'em rod) VHF IMM antenna, with a drawing. Memory playing tricks on me🤔it's actually about 141cm top to bottom. Cheers, Doug 😎 Here's a simple 35" stainless steel whip, also not tapered

Sanding done by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 21 days ago
Those antenna are normally tapered so I was hoping to find a soft plastic one which would take a few knocks. I could do one in piano wire but cant think of a flexible way of achieving the taper. Perhaps I am making to much of it and a piece of piano wire covered in white heatshrink will do and the lack of taper won't notice.

Sanding done by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Hi Steve, for the 'white stick', the VHF IMM band antenna, any old rod will do. The real ones are copper wire covered in glass fibre. Length of the real thing is about 107cm including the coaxial end feed connector at the bottom. They are usually mounted on a 'scaffold' type pole with two U clamps. On pleasure craft they are often just whip antennas approx 1m length, much much cheaper than the pro jobs 😉, with a dome shaped mounting and the antenna cable is fed into it through the deck/roof it is mounted on. Alternatively there is a side connector in the mount with an 'N' Type coaxial socket. Make a whip out of piano wire (with a ball on the top to protect your eyeballs!😆) and you could use it as your RX antenna - about the right length. Construction coming on nicely.👍 Cheers, Doug 😎

Sanding done by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 22 days ago
Most of the sanding is now done and the not so easy task of getting the propshaft and tube out (M3 so not really man enough). Bought loads of bits including the grab rails I've fitted. Bollards, cleats, capstan, anchor, chain, instruments,nav lights etc all boxed up ready to fit after paint. Also the crew has arrived from China. But, I have failed to find a VHF 'White Stick' style antenna anywhere....anyone seen one in any of the catalogues? Steve

Metal sanding plates by jimdogge Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 26 days ago
Hi mike wow l think l will have to give your sanding sheets a try my perma grit tools were £20 to £30 quid over 20 a go years ago. As in the name of my boats l seem to have more money than sense. thanks for the tip jim.

Metal sanding plates by Nonsuch Seaman   Posted: 27 days ago
They sound similar, but sure mine are by Sandvik. I never thought to clean them with paint stripper. Thanks for that, I'll give it a try. The new laser etched one's from Japan are highly flexible though, perfect for sanding a round bilged hull. At £6.99 including P&P I'm going to order a course and medium to make up the set. My main interest is static sailing ships and my new NT Sander has already made itself indispensable, levelling veneer planks. Their durability remains to be seen. Mike

Metal sanding plates by jimdogge Sub-Lieutenant   Posted: 27 days ago
Hi nonsuch are the sanding plates your describing the same as the Perma Grit tungsten carbide sanding tools. I have had my block sanders now for over 20 years and they are as good now as they day l bought them. quick coat of nitromores then a rub with brass wire brush good as new these are probably some of the best tools l own.

Metal sanding plates by Haverlock Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 28 days ago

Metal sanding plates by steve-d Lieutenant   Posted: 28 days ago
This thread seems to be missing a link😊 Steve

Metal sanding plates by Nonsuch Seaman   Posted: 28 days ago
I'm guessing that most of us remember Sandvik sintered metal sanding plates? I've had one for nearly forty years and it still works fine, but have always kept an eye open for another one. Last week I found a mini version on eBay, the NT Sander from Japan. It's made from 0.2mm stainless steel and about the size of a credit card. It looks as though the "pimples" are laser etched. It's flexible but comes with a sheet of double sided tape so it can be attached to a block. I bought the fine grade which is perfect for removing grain, raised after varnishing small parts. I doubt it will last forty years like the Sandvik, but it's a lovely piece of kit.

Spraying Again....... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Mornin' Neville, ."How wet is wet"? Hold the paper under a running tap, warm water, until it goes dark all over. Remove excess water with kitchen roll. You don't have to flood the hull but keep the paper well wetted. For convenience I use the Tamiya sanding sponges. They mould themselves to any shape they are used on which is great for compound curves. Keep a bowl of warm water handy to re-wet the paper or sponge from time to time and to clean of the residue that builds up on the paper. Also regularly wipe off the slurry that builds up on the object you are sanding with kitchen roll or a damp flat dense kitchen sponge. When you are finished wash off the hull (or whatever) with the the flat sponge and clean water. Dry off carefully with kitchen roll or non-linting cloth. DON'T do a bath test with just primer on the hull as the primer is porous! It consists mostly of finely ground chalk dust or similar in a solvent suspension. Wait until you have at least the first top coat on to seal it. You only have to look at a car with a primed wing, that has then been driven around in typical British weather for a few weeks, to see why!! Don't forget the 'secret ingredient' 😉 All the best, Doug 😎 PS Nearly forgot 😲 Start using a few drops of liquid soap on the w&d from the final preparation of the primer coat through til the end.

Spraying Again....... by RNinMunich Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Neville, Check out my Sea Scout 'Jessica' renovation blog for how to achieve good paint finish! 'Wet n dry' is the ONLY way to go. Right from the priming stage. It stops the 'riding' you describe and the generation of flying dust which is anathema to any paint or varnish finish, but you do have to clean and re-wet the paper and the object you are sanding from time to time!!! Any mistakes at that stage will carry through to the top coats and still be visible 😡 Don't quite understand how you created 'mouths'. I'm wondering if you sprayed too close and/or too heavy!? Your apparently exorbitant paint consumption seems to hint at this🤔 For the record; I started with 240 on the primer/filler for my Sea Scout and worked up through 400, 600, 1000, and 2000 and 3000 for the final top coats and deck varnish. All 'Wet', with a few drops of liquid soap added at the top coat stages, i.e. from the 1000 stage. At the end I polish with a mild cutting polish 'Anti hologram' they call it here, from the auto industry. Tedious I agree and a generous dollop of patience is required (the 'Secret Ingredient' I have often mentioned here 😉 But when you see the result it warms the cockles and makes it all worthwhile.😊 Happy spraying, cheers, Doug 😎 BTW; for the blue on my Sea Scout hull I used a 400ml rattle can for several coats (more than three in the end) and there's still some left ! BTW2; For masking I use Tamiya tape for nice crisp edges. Fill in behind that with 'normal' fine masking tape and newspaper.