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Model Boats Website Team
January 2018: 19 people December 2017: 7 people November 2017: 13 people October 2017: 9 people September 2017: 15 people August 2017: 10 people July 2017: 16 people June 2017: 8 people May 2017: 3 people
Hi Paul, just back from bowling training, averaged 207 was happy with that 😊 I don't know about scratch build or not but here on the site is a wonderful video of a flying Cat model. Title was something like 'Not quite a boat ...' I have the Airfix 1:72 kit of this plane and was considering trying to measure it and scale it up to make plans for a working model!!! Cheers Doug 😎
Keep your hair on Dave 😲, we were just curious, and as a British site it's not wrong (let alone quite wrong) to wonder why foreign symbols are used. If one is going to use the rank titles ....... As I had surmised it seems Stephen just used (partially) stylised symbols (or whatever he could find back then!). Nothing wrong with that either. Yes we are modellers, and most of us are scale modellers where great importance is placed on accuracy of detail 😉 The reason for introducing any such such symbols, whatever they may be, is glaringly obvious. Pax vobiscum, cheers Doug 😎
Looking at the specs ROXXY BL Outrunner 4240/10, 980rpm / Volt, 130g For electric sailers up to 4500g Scale and sport models up to approx. 2900g. If you have the 34" Fire Boat then this is too big. Mark suggested above a 3542/1000 and I agree. The smaller model is very light with a small transom and I found it has tendency to lean under the tork effect of the prop. Turning had to be slow and gentle to avoid capsize. This is not such a problem on the 48" version. Props should be no greater in diameter than the motor and should be chosen to keep well within the motor and ESC ratings. A wattmeter will help you check this and a good rule of thumb is to run at about half max current for best results.
Donnieboy built several of the boats in my harbour and is the Scale Captain in the Metro Marine Modellers Club, Toronto, Ontario. He is my “go to guy” .Watch for his harbour postings in the coming days. http://www.metromarine.org
[Score: 8/10] 35"/2700g ILLINI LOYAL Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 60mins Twin Propellors (5 Blade 50mm) Direct Drive to a 775 JOHNSON TYPE (5 Blade) Powered by NiMH (8.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through DIMART 320A FAN-COOLED (15Amps) ESC - Comments: ANOTHER ON THE WAYS: SALVAGED DUMAS ABS HYDRODYNE HULL, 35 X 10 X 2" ORIGINALLY IN THE AMERICAN BEAUTY KIT. MY INTENT IS TO SCRATCH BUILD FROM THIS HULL, A SINGLE-DECK TWIN SCREW LINEHAUL TOWBOAT WITH A FUNCTIONING TELESCOPING PILOTHOUSE. THEY ARE COMMON ON THE UPPER ILLINOIS RIVER WHERE THERE ARE FIXED OVERPASSES OR LOW OBSTRUCTIONS SPANNING THE WATERWAY. THE DES PLAINES AND CALUMET RIVERS IN THE CHICAGO AREA ALSO HARBOR THESE PUSHBOATS. THE PLAN IS TO KEEP HER LIGHT WITH A LOW CG, BUT POWERFUL ENOUGH TO PUSH SOME SCALE WEIGHT; I RECKON 775 MOTORS WITH 50MM 5-BLADE WHEELS WILL SUFFICE. THIS BOAT WILL BE STEERED WITH STANDARD RUDDERS, NO FLANKING RUDDERS, BECAUSE I WANT TO KEEP IT SIMPLE. (K.I.S.S.) I AM STILL BRAINSTORMING THE SYSTEM FOR RAISING/LOWERING THE PILOTHOUSE; POSSIBLY A SERVO WINCH & CABLE OR LINEAR SERVO. A PNEUMATIC RIG IS ALSO A POSSIBILITY I RECKON. SHE WILL BE WEARING THE ORANGE TRIM AND MIDNIGHT BLUE PAINT SCHEME OF MY SHOP-ILLINIWEK MARINE SCALE SHIPYARD. I USE LIGHTHOUSE LED's & MINI SWITCHES FROM THE SEATTLE AREA EXCLUSIVELY, 9V, 3MM. HARBOR MODELS 1.5V WORKING RADAR & MAYBE A 6V WORKING DECK CAPSTAN WILL BE ADDED. SHE IS MY 5TH ADDITION TO THE ILLINIWEK MARINE FLEET, AND WILL OF COURSE PUSH AHEAD THE MATCHING BARGES. GO FIGHTING ILLINI!
Andy The original model was produced in the early 1960s when IC engines were the norm and scale and RC for sailing models were in their early development stages. Supplies were limited and we made do with whatever was available. The plans were typically sheet on frame, probably plywood from an old tea chest and cascamite resin glue ( it was water proof and slow setting). The designer would suggest suitable wood to use but many chose to use what they could acquire and as a result the finished models often finished up heavy or very heavy. Coupled with the large IC engine and flywheel and large heavy RC escarpments and big drycell batteries, it is not surprising that the hulls sat well in the water. To the modellers of the period the waterline really didn't matter as we were after speed, control and endurance. This may explain why the early plans did not show a waterline, as in my experience the draught varied greatly between models. Today we have scale plans and supplies that allow us to build true replicas and all the important detail is a must for a true scale model. Personally as an ex flyer I try and build lite, bricks tend to fall or sink, and my Sea Queen rides high in the water with a slight bow up. A 42xx brushless and LiPo add little weight and I have two 8oz lumps of lead in the stern section to achieve this. If it looks right, sails well and you are happy, then enjoy your model.
1/35 Scale model of the La Combattante IIIB Class Fast Missile Boat of the Hellenic Navy. The boat is scratchbuilt. It is 1606mm long. It has 2 brushless 720Kv motors and NiMH batteries. The 76mm guns can traverse and elevate. The 30mm guns can traverse. Both radars rotate and there are LED running lights.
Hi Roy I agree well made prop shafts such as supplied by Raboesch are excellent. Personally I make my own to scale and length as I have the materials and lathes with which to fabricate them. My experience over many years is that over time the bearings and shafts wear and will require replacing at some time. I have used oiling tubes and stuffing boxes for best results, the latter make small leak repairs simple, but if the prop end bearing has worn it needs replacing. Our last club sailing waters were saline and I had to replace the bearings in all the models I sailed there. I used to wash the model hulls after every sail but it didn't help. I use a thick oil in the tubes.
Your keel shape is a bit longer but very similar Here is some info I have gleaned. Full scale 8 Metre boats - meaning 8 metres at the waterline - go back to around 1907 and they proved extremely popular with around 140 being built around Europe during the first seven years alone. It was a time of very rapid boat development and equally rapid evolution of class rules. At one stage 'Metre Boats' were allowed one foot of beam for every metre of waterline length, a possibly unique combination of metric and imperial in an International Rule. Current 8M boats derive from a model obtained 5-10 years ago by Robin Edgar and Alan Woodroffe of the Southwater Dabblers MBC who thought it was based on a J-Class. However, it was later found that what they had was a model of a Fife 8 Metre instead. In any event, the boat remained of great interest because the hull shape and relatively low draught makes it an excellent choice for shallow waters and especially for ponds with bad weed. They used the model to create some 50+ hulls. Can you tell me more about your mini 12
hi all, any of u out there have any Japanese sailors to crew my robbe torpedo PT-15 its a 1/40 scale boat, from the middle 1970s need a front gunner as well been in touch with quite a few model shops but no luck