[Score: 5/10] 45" 1/12 th scale Waveney Class Twin Propellors (3 Blade 45mm) Direct Drive to a Turnigy 3542/5 1250kv (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (11.1v) 5Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Fusion Hawk 60 amp (60Amps) ESC - Comments: 1/12th scale model of David Metcalfs Waveney Class Lifeboat "The Scout"
Hi Doug, I had indeed considered wet'n'dry, but as ever with using that stuff, you have joints which are difficult to disguise. Difficult one to decide on. And then there's the argument that at scale distances would you even see that it was a non-slip paint? I suppose you could make a point of the seams, like they were supposed to be there. I might try that, see what it looks like. I'll do a trial piece on some spare ply. I'm very interested to see you agreeing about the absence of white cabin tops, but very light sides. I may just do that. Still got to coax the model out of my son's loft yet. I left it with him when we had no space (living afloat). Trouble is he doesn't like ladders, so I will probably have to get over there myself and stand at the bottom of the loft ladder, coaxing his progress around his large loft! Cheers, Martin
Ok boys has anyone built this great mans hydroplane and either re engined or insralled a brushless outrunner. Bearing in mind that i am building this boat to operate at correct scale speed not bat out of hell speed. Correct acceleration and speed always enables the model to perform correctly during turns etc, anyhow. The only modification other than the powerplant is using a flex drive.
Evenin' Martin, just a quick thought before I hit the hay! For the non slip deck paint why don't you cover the deck with a suitable wet and dry paper? 😉 With a bit of luck you might even find some wet n dry the right shade of grey!! Don't know the size / scale you are building but maybe around 120 / 240 would do! Cut to fit, glue it down with a spray glue, I found some in the 'Creative Corner' of a garden centre near me. Also a good source of fine gauge steel, brass, copper, gold and silver wire and nylon thread, and anchor chains😉😊 Then seal with a spray-on flat sealer or varnish, then spray a satin colour you want. Humbrol H129 might be a good substitute for 'Cerrux Deck Grey'. See Model Boat Mayhem for references to Cerrux Grey 😉 I agree the cabin sides are a much lighter shade of grey, almost white. Just ripped all the innards and deck fittings off my PTB. Just got the bare hull and shaft tubes left. Just havin' a wee dram then up the 'apples and pears to Bedfordshire' before I get tempted to sand and paint through the night. It happens sometimes 😲 G'night all, cheers Doug 😎 ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
Does it need so much that we couldn't talk our way through it for you? I don't know a huge amount about sailing barges, but I know the basics and I have books about them as I am supposed to be making a 1/43rd scale model as a pattern for a kit for a model railway company's scenic accessories line. Martin
For sale is my 1/12th scale model of the Waveney Lifeboat - "The Scout" Kit produced by David Metcalf. Built to a good standard with an array of working features: Working radar controlled through a voltage reducer Navigation lights, mast lights, front and rear searchlights, flashing blue light and well lights all controlled by an Action Electronics P62 quad switcher. The flashing effect of the blue light is controlled by an Action ElectronicsP73 multi flasher. Powered by two Turnigy 3542/5 1250kv brushless outrunners controlled by two Fusion Hawk 60amp electronic speeed controllers. Fitted with Raboesch propshafts and 3 bladed brass left and right handed propellors. Batteries and radios are not included in the sale. The model is available for pick up only with cash on collection from Stafford ST16 which is approximately 1/2 mile from Junction 14 of the M6 motorway. Price £700 ovno
Heat sink! That's the devil. I kept thinking heat shrink, for some reason. I see "wall wart" describing plug-in chargers for 4 cells, but why "wart" I don't know. Looks a right mess in there, Doug, but at least you know what to do. Conrad...used to go in for a nose when I was in Munich. I worked in Sauerlach for about 6 months. Loved it. Conrad seemed to have everything, especially for making working scale model trucks. Wonderful place. I really appreciate your helping me out, mate, as I haven't got a bloody clue about charging batteries. But sort your problems out first. Meanwhile I'll make some nice wee boxes to put the batteries and Rx in, to limit any chance of water ingress. Cheers, Martin
Hi Doug, 36" even at 1/350 scale. Ye Gods, they really were big devils, eh? I always thought Hood was a very attractive ship. My loft was going to be my slot track home, then I went to stand up...DoH! not even crouch room, never mind head room, so storage it is. My Sea Urchin, Veron Veronica yacht, vintage Marblehead and Dorada are all up there. There is so much insulation up there that you can't see where the joists are when poking about. But I'm lucky to have a 6x6 foot brick shed with a Fort Knox type door, so models can also go up in the rafters of that too. Vanity on the side bench, currently. That's also where the bandsaw lives, the table saw and where silver soldering happens. Just out of interest, I've noticed there's a lot of photo-etch detail for 1/350 scale. Do you use that? I'd be interested to see your Hood when it's done. Cheers, Martin
Doug, I'm only looking at the RAF boats. As you know I don't do military (offensive military), so I wouldn't be looking at the HMS type of thing and even if I was, I'm not a fan of tiddler versions of capital ships. Too corkish on the water for my liking. So 1/24th is a minimum scale for working models for me. Of course 35th or even 72nd is fine for the big stuff, if that's what he does, but I was only looking for hard chinery. Cheers, Martin
Hey, Guys: Do you know if this model is scaled from a real boat? There are photos-aplenty on the web of full-size boats that are similar to Hobby Engine’s design but I haven’t seen any that match 100%. At 1:36 scale & 22” (1.833’) OAL that means a full-size Atlantic/Richardson/Southampton would be 66’ long. That’s about right for a small harbor tug.
Thanks for the welcome .The monitor is a take on a Glen Guest plan I changed the scale to 124th and built the large deck gun then use the parts from a plastic model of 128th to add the other weapons and parts. Rick
Two vessel in it class (1) HMS Scimitar (2) HMS Sabre Launched: December 1992 Displacement: 24,000 kg Builder: Portsmouth Armament: 2 × General purpose machine guns (stern-mounted) Complement: 7 (1 officer, 6 ratings) Gibraltar Squadron's two Scimitar-class boats are the smallest commissioned vessels in the Royal Navy. This build was to produce a fun semi scale racing boat, I have always liked the Archer class boats cabin design. So after finding a suitable hull, an old 'Models by Design' GRP moulding I was away with the rest of the build. Striped out all old fittings and remnants removed excess glue. Added strakes to the hull to add lift for planning and control. Produced a semi scale deck and cabin from light ply. Thanks for your interest Roy
I have a 1/12th scale Tamar and whilst they are a challenge to build the completed models look fantatstic and their performance and presence on the water is amazing. Your video of the Severn shows your boat to a very high standard - well done
Evenin' Rowen, So far so good, nice job👍 Let me go through your comments one by one😉 1) "Moved the battery towards the stern and, at speed, the forefoot lifts slightly clear of the water. The plane is now almost flat. The battery is not well positioned when near the bow." Battery in the bow is almost always bad news🤔 too much weight forward of the CoG or natural balance point when planing. 2) "The 2S battery used was a 4000mAh 30C; suspect this battery does not have the capacity to operate the model. Every motor will run up smoothly until a second one is operated. The first motor then “stutters” and a fuse might blow, this could be indicative of a power surge. Any comments from the electronic experts among the group would be appreciated." First the battery: you may be right. Especially with 3 x4500 kV motors Since you are using 3 ESCs how about feeding each one from a slightly smaller (lower weight) battery? Precondition of course is that all three are equally charged to the same voltage and capacity AND have the same (or very very similar) internal resistance! Complicates the issue of course and motors with a lower kV rating and one power source may well be the better solution😉 Second the 'stutter': How and when did you switch in the second motor? If the first was still at 'Full Ahead', i.e. 'Pedal to the metal!, I might expect the battery voltage to dip and then recover with the sudden additional load and a sharp rise in total current drawn. But no particular excuse for a sudden current rise in the first motor ! Where was the fuse that blew? I suspect in the primary supply lead from the single battery🤓 since with brushless motors you can't fit individual fuse in their supply leads like you can with a brushed motor. BUT you can to the ESCs feeding them!!! You can't get a power surge from a battery, not like a surge on the mains network due to lightning etc! But you can get a voltage dip and recovery if you suddenly present it with an additional load😲 3) "The 3S battery was 10,500mAh and 40C; with this battery all three motors can be run at full speed together and fuses do not blow. It was also very heavy at 1700g, holding the model down." All run up together to full speed or 'switched in' as described above? There's a big difference between a gradual increasing of load on a power source and a sudden step increase! 4) "The motors are 4500 kV. On refection, think a slower motor around, perhaps 2000 kV would have been a better choice." I did think at the outset that 3 x 4500kV was perhaps a little ambitious😲 2000 - 2500 sounds much better, and more controllable👍 Then you could also get good performance results with a single battery of capacity lower and weight 👍 The function of the third (centre) motor for 'action speed' would also be more pronounced👍 5) "Would concur with comments by others that a simple single or two bladed propeller layout for this model is probably best - that is unless you want to capture the true scale layout. The centre propeller seems to have little effect on overall performance, (see above re 4500kV motors- Doug😉) although it will power the model quite nicely when operating by itself. Have had several suggestions about how best to use the centre propeller. Will think about them and decide later how to do this when I start to finish the model." As a 'Scale Purist' (as far as my skills and tools allow!) personally I would frown on the use of 2 blade props, much less only a single prop. Do that in a fictitious power boat if you will, but for 'Brave Borderer' ? 😡 Do her justice please😉 Many three screw (😲) boats (including the full size originals of this era) only used the third motor for additional manoeuvring speed in action situations. My personal experience of FACs (Fast Attack Craft) and FPBs (Fast Patrol Boats) over the last three decades shows me that the three screw configuration has been largely dropped, especially since the introduction of much more powerful engines such as improved diesels and gas turbines. Many use a combination of diesel, for cruising, and gas turbine for 'action speed', so called CODAG, COmbined Diesel And Gas turbine. 6) "The 2 blade Hi – speed propellers both increased performance and current draw. The model is more than fast enough with the original scale layout." As I believe the 2 blade props were of larger diameter (and perhaps also of larger pitch) than the 3 bladers the higher current draw is a logical conclusion! Stick with the scale config! 👍👍👍 7) "Will purchase a lighter, 3 S battery as that seems the best choice for performance and weight." 👍 but don't overdo it to the other extreme by reducing weight and therefore capacity too much😲 You want a decent sailing time don't you? 8) "Testing using the bare hull with a minimum of detail worked well. For a models with a complex power train, this is a good approach as access to the internals can be gained easily. Nothing worse that finishing a boat carefully just to find the performance disappointing. Then having to to rip it apart to make major modifications or adjustments!" Heartily agree 👍👍👍 Bon chance mon ami😊
Now the spray has settled have assessed these first tests; have also reviewed various pictures and U Tube videos of the Brave and Pekasas in operation. The actual vessels look to plane rather like mine, whilst some model bows lift up until a significant length of keel is exposed. Anyway, have been able to draw some conclusions: 1) Moved the battery towards the stern and, at speed, the forefoot lifts slightly clear of the water. The plane is now almost flat. The battery is not well positioned when near the bow. 2) The 2S battery used was a 4000mAh 30C; suspect this battery does not have the capacity to operate the model. Every motor will run up smoothly until a second one is operated. The first motor then “stutters” and a fuse might blow, this could be indicative of a power surge. Any comments from the electronic experts among the group would be appreciated. 3) The 3S battery was 10,500mAh and 40C; with this battery all three motors can be run at full speed together and fuses do not blow. It was also very heavy at 1700g, holding the model down. 4) The motors are 4500 kV. On refection, think a slower motor around, perhaps 2000 kV would have been a better choice. 5) Would concur with comments by others that a simple single or two bladed propeller layout for this model is probably best - that is unless you want to capture the true scale layout. The centre propeller seems to have little effect on overall performance, although it will power the model quite nicely when operating by itself. Have had several suggestions about how best to use the centre propeller. Will think about them and decide later how to do this when I start to finish the model. 6) The 2 blade Hi – speed propellers both increased performance and current draw. The model is more than fast enough with the original scale layout. 7) Will purchase a lighter, 3 S battery as that seems the best choice for performance and weight. 8) Testing using the bare hull with a minimum of detail worked well. For a models with a complex power train, this is a good approach as access to the internals can be gained easily. Nothing worse that finishing a boat carefully just to find the performance disappointing. Then having to to rip it apart to make major modifications or adjustments!