Nowhere near the interest required, Colin. I was once asked by the editor of Model Railway Journal to write some articles. I did and the editor had changed and he said, "Nobody makes anything any more". And he the editor of the one magazine for scratchbuilders! Nah, sod 'em. Cheers, Martin
Maybe I should write one, eh, Colin? For the scratchbuilders among us. A treatise on brass bashing and woodwork. Nobody would be interested. I've just epoxied my Sea Hornet, which I'm modifying as a Chris Craft Custom Runabout. One cockpit, big hatch. Cost me 99p off ebay a few years ago. I just had to scrape all the old red paint off it as it wanted to fall off anyway! Then a huge rub down, a wipe with cellulose thinner and a coat of epoxy applied with a square of styrene sheet because I couldn't find an old credit card on the quick, just as good though. Next, rub down and 2 coats of cellulose primer surfacer, then the top coats. This one is to be one of the painted CCs. There were quite a few. But the deck will be veneered in the correct style and varnished. Martin
My second scratch build. SA Navy "Spioenkop". 1:80 scale. 2 Mtroniks 600 motors on the scale 40mm (home made) props running on 6v and Hobbywing 860 brushed ESC. Jetdrive (also homemade) runs on a 550 motor (I think!) and a 1060 Hobbywing ESC running on 12v. Chopper is a heavily modified Hobbyboss RN Super Lynx. Hangar door opens as well as chopper moves on helideck with worm drive and magnets. Idea is that this would happen sequentially ... but haven't managed to sort that out as I am "electronically challenged". Suggestions welcome!
I have tried to run the engine on air, but failed. I soon found the problem. I had designed the ports to be in from the end of the cylinder, to give better cover. I knew I would need a slot cut in the cylinder wall, to get steam past the piston. I had completely forgotten to do this. The photo shows the slot cut in this end of cylinder now. The photo is a close up showing all the scratches. The rough looking wall of cylinder are not that bad. they are a good thing as they will hold oil preventing wear. Well that is the theory.
It’s been a while since I did some work on the Waveney! ive been busy with courses to get ready for Civvie street and have had a sideways step with some aeromodelling. Anyway, have pressed on this week with the decks being finished and painted. all deck fittings scratch built, stanchions fitted and a crew figure painted and fitted. Today has seen the start of modifying the cabin to make it look like the UK version of the coast guard ship. The cabin rear end has had lots or pieces of ply and balsa fettled to make an enclosed cabin. the finishing touch will be a roll up vinyl rear cabin door which was a scrap piece of orange fake leather sourced of ebay for 99p! i had the model in the wifes hot tub to see where the balance was and it looks like its going to need about 2 kg of lead ballast in various places inside the hull to get a good sit on the water line.
Hey, Doug: Thanks again. I’ll take your suggestions & mark up your drawing accordingly. I still need to finish clearing away the molded-on plastic details inside the mast, then order the parts for this project. I generally don’t like starting any kind of project until everything needed is on hand (everything I think I’ll need, that is). You’ll probably have your tug’s lighting finished long before I do. I’m looking forward to being able to use my desktop PC comfortably again. Every word & photo I’ve posted on this fantastic site so far has been typed on or photographed with my trusty iPhone 6. It’s very convenient but it’s awfully hard on my eyes. The little touch keyboard is a challenge for my beat up old dinner plate-size mitts, too. Anyway, when my tug’s new lighting & modified controls are all built, tested & buttoned up I’d like to combine your drawing, spreadsheets & various notes with my own hen scratches, notes & miscellaneous observations into a CAD drawing. Naturally you’ll be cited as the project EE/electronics designer on the drawing’s title block. I’m confident in saying that your tug’s lighting will use factory colored LEDs, not hand-colored white ones. It would be a shame if I didn’t follow suit & use your design for colored LEDs as originally intended. I’ll much more satisfied knowing that the new navigation lights & other changes were done the right way. The glass paint is coming off my list! Thanks, Pete
Greetings! I'm a first time builder attempting the Seaforth Conqueror from scratch. I have built the hull which was a major task but it came out okay. Trying to decide on which motors to invest in. I really don't want to spend $40-50 each for geared motors like Harbor Models has. I was wondering if the RS 545 motors would work in a 36" boat as direct drive. I also have a new in the box Amsterdam tug that I probably should build first as it only has the one main motor and is a ready to build kit, but I spent four years working my way up the ladder on oil supply vessels and got my USCG Master License. So, I have a soft spot for the offshore oil boats. Any advice would be helpful for both boats! Thanks
Hello, Doug: It looks like a total success! Outstanding work! Now that details for this job are just about finalized I’ve been putting a shopping list together for all of the components. 3mm LEDS should be just right for the Richardson’s mast lights. I’ll be able to easily scratch-build the mast light housings & mounting brackets from my spare kit parts bins. When it comes to the LEDs for this project, what do I need to look for voltage & current rating, brightness or anything else? Unfortunately I can’t see very well yet but I can use Siri on my iPhone to type what I say. If there’s anything offensive in this post, it’s Siri’s fault. I can’t wait for this plague to leave me! Thanks for your ceaseless generosity & patience. Pete
Of course, Doug, but you have to admit the mass line-ups look bloody realistic. I have 2 Spitfires in build and have even found a couple of dollies to drive them. And, I bought a HobbyKing o'b without motor. So info on installing a brushless will be required once the installation begins. I' couldn't leave the o/b alone, so I had to turn it into a Godiva 40 as built by Coventry Climax. Not much current news but their forum is still going up to date. I very much doubt that any English have taken it up yet. No evidence of it on the forum. Of course, whilst there are a few (rather expensive) kits, most are scratchbuilt and very nicely too. That's what I like about 152 vo. Martin The almost legendary Coventry Climax powered Godiva 40.
My Albion was scratch built by my friend - Brian. He also built the Chinese Junk some of you will have seen posted on this site before. A very talented and lovely man. Picture again postedfor you to see. Enjoy.