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Model Boats Website Team
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Hi all, here's progress on the Darby One Design. Got these pics just before it started peeing down, so no Chris-Craft pics. Fitted a brushless outrunner I found in a box. Might work, might not... Home made prop shaft/tube, home made off-set rudder. Planked balsa top cover to keep weight down. 1/6th scale 26"long, 10" beam. Thick grey cellulose primer to act as a light filler for scratches, etc. Martin
Ok start by removing all I can from the hull, rudder, mast, stickers, stays. etc a) Sand down the hull and wash with white spirit. b) Fill scratches and re-sand. c) Reinforce mast position surrounding area.
I have by luck, not judgement acquired a second hand 'Nirvana' Yacht, it is a sloop rigged craft that was only sold in America and retailed between $250 and $350 according to the revision version and the year brought. This was a bit of a surprise to me as I only paid £10 for it. The Nirvana RC Sailboat was first produced by Megatech in 2002. and is 32in long and the hull& deck are ABS plastic. The quality of the boat is unmatched in the price range, with such features as a lead keel ballast, superior polyester sails that won't mildew, stretch or tear, and fittings that make the boat a dream to sail. The mast and booms are made of carbon reinforced composite that is light and very strong. The Boat hull is in sound condition just a few scratches, there is a hairline crack in the mast area, no radio gear at all. and sails are usable but really need replacing.
I have tried to run the engine on air, but failed. I soon found the problem. I had designed the ports to be in from the end of the cylinder, to give better cover. I knew I would need a slot cut in the cylinder wall, to get steam past the piston. I had completely forgotten to do this. The photo shows the slot cut in this end of cylinder now. The photo is a close up showing all the scratches. The rough looking wall of cylinder are not that bad. they are a good thing as they will hold oil preventing wear. Well that is the theory.
Hey, Doug: Thanks again. I’ll take your suggestions & mark up your drawing accordingly. I still need to finish clearing away the molded-on plastic details inside the mast, then order the parts for this project. I generally don’t like starting any kind of project until everything needed is on hand (everything I think I’ll need, that is). You’ll probably have your tug’s lighting finished long before I do. I’m looking forward to being able to use my desktop PC comfortably again. Every word & photo I’ve posted on this fantastic site so far has been typed on or photographed with my trusty iPhone 6. It’s very convenient but it’s awfully hard on my eyes. The little touch keyboard is a challenge for my beat up old dinner plate-size mitts, too. Anyway, when my tug’s new lighting & modified controls are all built, tested & buttoned up I’d like to combine your drawing, spreadsheets & various notes with my own hen scratches, notes & miscellaneous observations into a CAD drawing. Naturally you’ll be cited as the project EE/electronics designer on the drawing’s title block. I’m confident in saying that your tug’s lighting will use factory colored LEDs, not hand-colored white ones. It would be a shame if I didn’t follow suit & use your design for colored LEDs as originally intended. I’ll much more satisfied knowing that the new navigation lights & other changes were done the right way. The glass paint is coming off my list! Thanks, Pete
Part 1. Ideal conditions; nearly 30°C, cool Bier at hand😜 Sea Scout built by Dad in the early sixties with a Taycol Target and 6V lead acid wet cells (very wet😡). Renovated and dragged into the 21st century over the last several months 😉 See Build Blog 'Sea Scout 'Jessica'' for details! Motor: Propdrive 2830, 1000kV, 30mm 3 blade Raboesch prop. Quicrun 16BL30 (30A) ESC with BEC. Tested with 3 battery types, all started with 99% measured capacity- 1. NiMh 4.2Ah 7.2V, nom. 408gm. Result: Speed sedate (OK 😉scale river cruising!) No planing. Max current: 3.6A End status V / capacity left: At end of short run ca 3 mins. 7.78V 99%. 2. 2S LiPo 4.0Ah 7.4V nom. 257gm. Result: Speed still sedate but due to lower batt weight at least the forefoot came out of the wet stuff! Max current: 4.1A End status V / capacity left: At end of short run ca 3 mins. 8.25V 93%. 3. 3S LiPo 4.0Ah 11.1V nom. 315gm. Result: Now we're getting somewhere!!😁 Good speed, manoeuvrability and planing 😊 Max current: 7.5A End status: 11.95V 74% after several long runs, ca 20 mins total. Estimated (extrapolated) endurance on a 4Ah LiPo around one hour - mostly 'full bore' - 'Pedal to the metal man' 😊 See also: https://youtu.be/oMUlSOaAREM The competition! https://youtu.be/zPgYicA0yGw Final run. (Beer was getting warm😁) Cap'ns log entry: Boat dead-weight w/o battery: 1.8kg. Spray rails to be added!😲 Slight list to port to be trimmed. Rudder servo to be reversed!!😲 Keel protection to be added: some scratches and flaking from stony sloping shore 🤔 Summary: much as expected👍 Forget anything less than 3S. Anyone want to buy a batch (4) of new 2S 4Ah 45C Lipos? 'One careful owner'! Happy boating people, Cheers Doug 😎 PS Many thanks to Camera girl Gisela 👍 Recorded in 1080p HD.
For the stack I made a plastic box and then cut plastic round to add to the sides.. once up to the top I added a fake base to the top and then added the detail of the scuffs and scratches. The single boxes were made in the same way and I added wire to the top and the sides to added the additional detail...
Hi Wayne This boat is being made for going up river rapids through boulders etc so it will be getting somewhat knocked around so I would be happy if it only receives a few scratches lol I take you point though but I havn't purchased the running gear yet Can't quite make my mind up on battery power or petrol engine I've got a bit of time yet to make a decision Cheers Rod
😎Hi I used the Halfords red primer on my 34 inch Crash Tender, built it up over three coats and when dry rubbed it down lightly with Meguiars Ultimate Compound. It gave it a nice shine. The Meguiars Compound is also sold in Halfords. Its not cheap but it has a lot of other uses like removing fine scratches not only on vehicles as I had used it a couple of times on model boats. Boaty
Been busy with other things but when possible done as much as I can with boat. Full set of printable window frames, windscreen and portholes printed or ready to be printed. Re bushed rudder fixing which worked out pretty well. Made new floors on bottom of boat. Repaired all holes and depression in bottom of hull. Got roofs to fit properly, in process of making new roof parts for fixed part of front cab. Fitted beading around edge of deck, made adjustable motor mount so hopefully when experimenting with various type and sizes any will fit. By far the most difficult work has been to try and get a nice surface to spray on. Holes not a problem, dents not a problem but all the scratches small dents and blemished in the wood has been a real pain. Too shallow to fill I ended up painting thick layers, filling highlighted areas sanding back practically to wood, painting again and repeating several times whilst allowing paint to dry for 10 days in between. Time consuming but its almost there now with the hull anyway. Top needs more work but that's relatively small areas to work with. Tryed to keep cost down using what I have available etc but another boat that size in that condition I think another method such as fibreglass will be seriously considered. Carl
HI Its Boatshed , "I think I have finally managed to make a half decent job of the tow hook." Isn't that a bit of an under statement ?? 👎 It looks awesome. 👍 👍 😋 . I would be frightened to put It Into water when It's finished. I take out an old tatty 30 year old boat and have no problems. I took out my new Miss Geico cat and broadsided the bank first time out. Got away luckily with scratches. But with the way your Fireboat Is going to look, I would scared to use It. I look forward to seeing pictures of her when she Is finished. Also hope you put some video on here when you take her out.
Sometime around 1968 I found a small set of drawings, about A4 size, for Sct. Knud In (I think) Ships Monthly. So I enlarged to 1:32 scale and made my model plank-on-frame with GRP overcoat. She Is powered by a 6V Pittman motor driving a self-made scale prop and 2:1 gearbox. Steering Is effected via chain and quadrant as per prototype! Everything bar the anchor, anchor chains and steering chains Is self-made using a variety of materials (brass, plastics, 'Perspex', and copper electro-deposited cowl vents). Recently I fitted her out with LED lights: Interior, navigation and working. One might notice that I abhor a working boat looking like "Daddy's yacht" and so I apply custom dings, stains, oil spills, scratches, wear and tear to my tugboats 😀 My Knud runs as well today as she did 45 years ago and In all that time has only needed one repair to her gearbox!
the sanding started with 240grit wet and dry until the surface was flat and even. then using 400grit sanded until the surface scrathes from the 240grit were removed,then 600grit until the scratches from the 400grit were removed,and so on using 800,1000,1200 grit paper.
HI Kurt. Sorry, but this boat was already painted when I purchased It, so dont know what was used, but yes, halford aerosol paint Is good enough, but for a bit more protection, try putting a couple of clear laquer coats over the top to protect from scratches, otherwise you could be forever touching up minor scuffs. I will be repainting the hull on this fireboat next year, once Ive had some fun out of It. I did not get to the fun day either, was working and these guys would not put anything on, on the saturday, so I stick to running on my own local pool, but would be good to see a few dusseldorfs together sometime, If you ever passing through the cannock/midlands area, let me know and your Invited to the pool my club uses, but If I can help you with any teething problems or tips, feel free to get back to me, direct email Is "*PM only - Admin*", Ive goit as many pics of the renovation work Ive done as well as the Installation of the fire monitors, mine only swivel and fire water, could not be bothered to create too much mechanism for lift/lower too, they fire water better set at high angle anyway. best wishes. Steve.
The rudders are now soldered and fitted I use spring clips to hold the tiller to the shaft that way they can be removed and oiled or a new seal fitted In seconds and they go back to where they where . On the larger 34" boat I have some scale rudders made for display and some similar to the ones on this for running and they are a bit over size. I don't mind compromising the weight a bit to get a boat that will not need maintenance In the future, the second shot gives an Idea of the rudder size that Is a bit bigger than scale but not that bad, so all the under hull Is finished all that Is required Is a good sand and fill a few scratches. The props are prop shop 25mm for starters I can go a bit bigger prob up to 30mm If required.