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If she is the 34" model then she's the Sea Commander, 46" is the Sea Queen. I have got both, picked them up from boot fairs, at least 4+ years ago, and sadly still awaiting refurb. I also have a 46" Crash Tender still waiting the same. As well as a 34" crash Tender I bought back in 1994 as a 50 years anniversary kit and a 46" I got at wings and wheels about 3 years ago both in boxes waiting a full build from new. I have also still got my early 1970's Sea Hornet that also needs a refurb. Amongst other new and second hand models to get sorted out. I always say one day I will get round to it.
I am also upgrading the prop shaft, I have purchased a 4mm shaft to use that has a decent outer casing. All other boats I have built the side chine rails have all bee 1/4 x1/4 inch rails. I am just so disappointed with some of the substandard use of certain parts. I just feel for the price they are cutting costs to up their profits on the boat. I have built a few of the older AeroKits like the RAF crash tender, Sea commander, Sea Queen and Sea Hornet as well as the Precedent Fairey Huntsman, and these all have a substantial set of side rail to fit and even the bulk head pieces are a much better thickness of ply. I would just not recommend the Aeronuat kits to anyone myself now. I was just going to fit a standard Gruapner speed 400 motor in but still unsure. I was thinking maybe a brushless may just be a bit overpowering her. but as I say still unsure, I may put in a brushless yet who knows. Keep us informed on here as to you progress I am keen to see your finished model. I suspect yours will be finished well before mine as I have shelved the build for now. Happy modelling.
have you got ant pictures of the build of her or a picture of her finished> I bought one of these back in September from Hobbies in Raveningham. I have got 3/4's of the way through the build. I am very disappointed with the model. The side stringers are 1/16th thick and the bottom skin doesn't fit. That is 1/8th of an inch too short. I have had to buy more ply to make a new pair of bottom skins. I have decided to leave the finishing of the model now until after Christmas. I think it's a poorly made model, they cut corners on the thin wood they have supplied to build it with. I saw a picture of one that was built a few years back and the construction was far better. I feel it was a waste of money, I would have been better buying the Sea Hornet from the vintage model works for an extra £18. I personally wouldn't recommend the Aeronaut Classic to anyone to buy.
Many thanks for your reply on my question. I wasn't sure what it was. I am still wondering does any one still use Cascamite. I have built several boats in years gone by with it. I am building an Aeronaut Classic at the moment and the glue that was recommended was Deluxe materials Speed Bond. In the instructions it doesn't state what glue to use, there is a small tube of glue with the kit but the instructions say about using dope to seal the wood it may melt the glue. Apart from that I'm far from happy with the way it is made. I would have been better off spending an extra £20 and getting a Sea hornet. I have had to go and buy another piece of sixteenth thick marine ply as the bottom skins do not fit the skeleton. I have used the Depron build sheet as well. I have never built a model on one of these in the past. I built a Sea Hornet in the early 70's and it's still in my shed and needs restoring, But she's still well solid. I'm not so sure that this Aeronaut Classic will stand the use and time that the Sea Hornet has. Has anyone else on here built one of these and found the same problem with it?
Gardener, I go out in the garden, where I have some large ex paint tins. I soak the ply in the water butt, then wedge it against the inside of the tin with a stick of bamboo, until the sun has dried it. By then it's nicely curved and can be glued to your frame members, you made while it was drying, out of 3mm ply. Make sure the top really IS dry and then weight down the structure while the glue is setting thoroughly. I've just made a long section of deck/hatch for my Chris Craft version of a Sea Hornet that way. Cheers, Martin
Gents, just put the Sea Hornet in the build blog section, but whether it gets seen or not, I don't know. If the IC engine is an easy runner, Colin, run it on a water where the turds can't stop you. A navigable river or canal or just run the bugger till someone can prove (PROVE, mind) that you can't. Then just run it till the fuel runs out, reluctantly apologise and leave. BTW, I won't be showing video of this as I have no mobile phone beyond an emergency one that don't do pictures of any kind. I have a video camera somewhere that has dead batteries and a power pack, but where I sail there ain't no power! Doug, would the ED aerial be more like 27 meg if it was 6 foot long? I think it gets damned close to his ceiling if you try to put it up at home. So, chaps, Sea Hornet/Chris-Craft Special Runabout over on the Build blog section ifn you'm interested. Cheers, Martin
OK, you know and I know that this is an Aerokits Sea Hornet, BUT, with a little reworking, it becomes a very passable Chris Craft Special (sometimes Custom) Runabout. One cockpit, long engine deck. I think it suits the Sea Hornet shape and proportions very well. Generally, I think too much is expected to be going on with a basic Hornet and the deck furniture is too simplistic. Also, don't be tempted to call this one a barrel back They had one continuous curve right over the transom from chine to chine, whereas this hull and the Special Runabout had a break, albeit a small one at the deck level. Anyway, I redecked the Hornet with 1/16th" ply, leaving the engine hatch long. I also had to make a small hatch at the stern to service the tiller and its connection. Then I realised I would never be able to get to the two starboard screws that hold the steering servo in, so a wee hatch went in over them too. That will be held in with a small magnet and just popped up from inside the engine 'ole hatch. Because the hull needed filling and various repairs, I decided to paint it, but veneer plank the deck. many Chris-Crafts were painted and I think this one in a nice off-white with a varnished Mahogany and pear deck will look just the job with nickel plated deck furniture, made in brass and nickel silver and plated in nickel to look like chrome in scale. Chrome is a) difficult to get these days and b) too bright and garish on a model. The hull has been epoxied and rubbed down then brush panted heavily with cellulose primer surfacer. This rubs down a treat ready for a sprayed enamel top coat or three. Cheers, Martin
Maybe I should write one, eh, Colin? For the scratchbuilders among us. A treatise on brass bashing and woodwork. Nobody would be interested. I've just epoxied my Sea Hornet, which I'm modifying as a Chris Craft Custom Runabout. One cockpit, big hatch. Cost me 99p off ebay a few years ago. I just had to scrape all the old red paint off it as it wanted to fall off anyway! Then a huge rub down, a wipe with cellulose thinner and a coat of epoxy applied with a square of styrene sheet because I couldn't find an old credit card on the quick, just as good though. Next, rub down and 2 coats of cellulose primer surfacer, then the top coats. This one is to be one of the painted CCs. There were quite a few. But the deck will be veneered in the correct style and varnished. Martin
Problem with Raboesch props, Doug (apart from cost) is that they're very scale boatish. I will need something a bit sporty and 2 bladed. I could make one, of course, but have no idea where to start shapewise apart from copy a real fast runabout prop. Silver soldering a prop ain't a problem for me. It's a damned faff though! Here's the boat I'm kinda modelling the Sea Hornet mods on. Cheers, Martin
Thanks, Doug, the blue brushless is held by something that grabs the smaller cylinder and the rest spins round, ergo, outrunner. If I ever make a lightweight I might try one in there. The brushed 400 I will try in the Sea Hornet. Gotta be worth a try. And that Simprop should be OK for it, n'est ce pas? What concerns me is the lack of sizes available in props. They all seem to start at 35mm which might be a little too hefty for the 400, but I can't find a 30mm anywhere. I also found the Hornet II I carved a while back with a view to getting it scanned for frame sections, so that's another wee job to finish off. I am looking forward to doing that one. Cheers, Martin
Bon appetites, mon Braves. I have stopped doing Vincent heads (my neck feels like it'll break) and started looking for stuff. The Supermarine is, I hope to hopes, in the loft. But, whilst looking for the drill motor, I found the speed 400 from the electric Ugly Stik aeroplane. I'm wondering if that will power the Sea Hornet. Not sure what voltage they run at, so I'm orff to check that out. Also found the Hornet II model I carved in the hope I could get it scanned and sections (i.e. frames) made. 2 down, 2 to go! Fingers crossed. Cheers, Martin
Doug, just seen the prices of 12V NiMh packs! I'd be better off using a 3s LiPo! I can get one of those from the local model shop for 15 quid. I could use the inrunner I have just got for the outboard in the Sea Hornet and just get one of those brushless ESCs. Jeez, this is all so expensive! Cheers, Martin
Doug, I'll stick with your build blog. I still don't understand how you used the servo tester to replace TX and Rx, but don't worry, I'm happy to use the RC gear. As I did tonight in fact. Hooked the FlySky up to a Futaba servo I'd put on the rudder for the Sea Hornet and it all worked a treat. First RC installation I've ever done! Made loads of statics, but no RCs before. And you will NEVER find lights on one of my models. Mike Karslake, life long professional modelmaker, to a customer..."Sir I make models, not bloody table lamps". Cheers, Martin